ESSENTIALR e f e r e n c e G u i d e

J e w e l r y

ESSENTIALJ e w e l r y

R e f e r e n c e G u i d e

©The Gemological Institute of AmericaCarlsbad, California 92008©2000 The Gemological Institute of AmericaAll rights reserved: Protected under the Berne Convention.Printed in the United States.

Table of ContentsIntroduction 1

Setting Styles 2

Rings 4

Ring Findings 12

Earrings 14

Earring Findings 18

Chains 20

Necklaces and Pendants 26

Bracelets 32

Necklace, Chain, and Bracelet Findings 36

Brooches 38

Brooch Findings 41

Cufflinks 42

Cufflink Findings 45

Birthstones 46

Anniversary Gift List 48

Index 50

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Jewelry is our most intimate adornment. It is also oneof our most complex—the sheer scope and variety ofjewelry types and styles present a challenge to anysales associate, seasoned or novice. And yet, the chal-lenge of selling all kinds of jewelry with confidence canbe a welcome one, especially with the EssentialJewelry Reference Guide at your side.

One of the most powerful ways to learn about the variousstyles of jewelry is by looking at them. The EssentialJewelry Reference Guide enables you to do this. It placesa representative selection of the popular and traditionaljewelry styles in your hands. From cuff bracelets to cuff-links, from omega necklaces to omega-back earrings,most of the jewelry you are likely to sell is here, beauti-fully photographed and concisely labeled.

But the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide offersmuch more than a closer look at the spectacular arrayof jewelry available today. This valuable guide linksword and image in an easy-to-understand format. Takeadvantage of the terminology you find within the pagesof this vibrant compendium. Industry terms like “kidneywire,” “figaro,” or “bypass ring” are part of the languageof jewelry. Your new vocabulary will allow you to servecustomers with ease, accuracy, and professional flair.

In addition, the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide isorganized with the student’s convenience in mind.Jewelry items are grouped by categories (rings,bracelets, and so on). Whether you need specific infor-mation for a sale, or just want to browse, the guide isdesigned to help you expand your expertise quicklyand easily.

As a helpful plus, the Essential Jewelry ReferenceGuide includes two customer gift-giving lists—onefor birthdays, one for anniversaries—that you’ll referto often.

“A Jewelry Gallery” in your Jewelry Essentials courseprovides a tantalizing discussion of today’s popularjewelry. The Essential Jewelry Reference Guideexpands on that knowledge by taking you on a visualtour of these jewelry styles. Enjoy your journey.

©2000 by GIA. All rights reserved.

INTRODUCTION

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Fine jewelry settings cradle precious cargo.From traditional to innovative, their vari-ety is as endless as human creativityitself. And without a beautiful setting todefine it, the most stunning of gemsremains unfulfilled. Tiny diamondsshimmering like newfallen snow. A rubyribbon of seamless crimson. These areonly two of the wondrous images jewel-ry settings conjure.

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setting styles

Prong

Pavé

Channel

Tension

Illusion

Bezel

Flush

Invisible

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O ther than our facial expressions, ourhands are our most eloquent attribute.No wonder rings are the most popularjewelry type. We choose a ring not onlyto adorn our finger, but also to make astatement, a promise, an invitation.Shakespeare’s King Richard III spokeardently and well when he said,

“Look, how my ring encompasseth thyfinger,Even so thy breast encloseth my poorheart;Wear both of them, for both of themare thine.”

Whether rings conveyed the imprint of aroyal seal or sealed a promise ofmarriage, they hold a place of honor injewelry history. In modern times, theyare equally meaningful. Explore theirmany messages.

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rings

Diamond Engagement

Diamond Solitaire

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Diamond bar set

Diamond eternity

Sapphire and diamond

Anniversary Bands

Diamond Wedding Sets

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Dome millgrain

Dome

Invisible-set diamond Engraved two-tone

Diamond two-tone

Two-toneDiamond two-tonecombination finish

Bypass

Cluster

Two-tone freeform

Waterfall

Freeform

Wedding Bands

Fashion

Flat

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Diamond Diamond coin Black onyx and diamond

Black onyx and diamond nuggetSignet

Stackable

Tri-color Rolling

Teenage (Promise)

Men’s

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Designer

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Semi-Mounts

Colored Gem and Diamond

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Guard

Wraps

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Heads

Four-prong round high pinch Six-prong round low pinch peg Six-prong round tulip

Six-prong round low base Four-prong round low base Six-prong open back buttercup

Six-prong marquise headwith point prongs

Six-prong marquise headwith V end prongs

Adjustable Shanks

MAB Superfit®

ring findings

Finger-fit shanks

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Seven-stone top

Illusion, Cluster, and Trim

Eight-stone peg setting

Illusion setting

Stone top for man’s ring

Cathedral Flat

Half roundHalf round pinch

Shanks

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Romeo described his Juliet as a rich jewelthat graced “the cheek of night” like anearring sweeping the cheek of a dark-skinned beauty. Whether they dangledramatically against the face or nestledemurely at the earlobe, earrings providebright counterpoint to the changingmelody of an expressive countenance.One of the most ancient of jewels, ear-rings have metamorphosed repeatedlyover the centuries in response to fashionand fancy.

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earrings

Slide

Hoop

Hinged

Non-pierced

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Diamond Stud

Button Cultured Mabé Pearl

Gem-set OmegaBack with Post

Electroform

Gem-set Post

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Gem-set Kidney WireDesigner Drop

Gem-set Lever Back

Gem-set Hoop and Hinged

Ball and Half-ball

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earring findings

Diamond Solitaire Post Mountings

Posts “La Pousette” Posts and Clutches

Lever Back

Jackets

Kidney Wire

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Shepherd’s HookScrew Backs

Eternity Wire

Omega Backs

Gem-set Post Mountings

Butterfly Clutch

Clutches

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G leaming intertwined links speaking ofpower and bounty, precious metalchains are timeless in appeal. Thousandsof years ago, artisans hand-wroughtthem of twisted loops of wire. Today,complex software drives machines toknit fantastically intricate chain pat-terns never before achieved. Kissing awrist or resting against a breastbone,jewelry chains are always a luxury.

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chains

Omega

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Cable wire (top two), round omega (bottom) Flat gooseneck (top), half-round gooseneck(bottom two)

Curb

Double curb

Oval curb

Beveled herringbone

Herringbone

Serpentine

Byzantine Twisted serpentine

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Diamond-cut figaroBowtie figaro

Hollow mariner

Mariner

Rope

Figaro

Ball

Flat figaro

Parallel curb

Singapore

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Twisted rope

Elongated cable

Open cable

Cobra

Triple rope French rope

Boston link

Drawn flat cable

Bismarck

Double cable

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Side-by-side Mirror

Snake Stocking mesh

Wheat

Heart

Rolo (top), belcher (middle four), “U” (bottom)Fancy double link (top three), lace (bottomtwo)

Track

C-chain

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From the sweet wink of a little girl'slocket to the bold spark of a fabulousdiamond necklace, jewelry that encir-cles the throat works instant magic.Necklaces come in myriad forms andstyles, and pendants of endless varietyoften add spice to their charm. Inrecent years, pearl strands and dia-mond solitaire pendants have won aplace close to the hearts of jewelrylovers. But bright metal collars, sultry“Y” necklaces, and many other lookscontinue to appeal, now and into thefuture. Whatever style you choose towear, necklaces invite others to stepcloser to your magic spell.

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necklaces and pendants

Gem-set

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“Y”

Diamond Solitaire

Cultured Pearl Strand

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Station

Stampato Link

Free-form Slide

Diamond Heart

Locket

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Torsade

Collar

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Designer

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Worn close to the pulse, bracelets are anintimate pleasure. Primitive artisans fash-ioned them in the forms of snakes andram’s heads. Modern bracelet styles can besimilarly bold, or as subtle as a whisper.Chain bracelets echo the pattern of theirsister neck chains. Cuff bracelets of twist-ed metal make high-fashion statements.Meanwhile, the diamond tennis bracelet isa coveted classic that spans the genera-tions. And bangles—plain or gem-stud-ded, single or stacked—are simply ele-gant. The choices are as rich as the worldof jewelry itself.

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bracelets

Cuff

Diamond Link

Tennis

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Medical I.D.

I.D.

Hinged Bangle

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Designer

Gem-set Link

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necklace, chain, and bracelet findings

Four-prong basket solitaire

Pendant Mountings

Bails

Safety Chains

Jump Rings End Caps

Bezel-set slideCluster

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Clasps

Lobster claw Spring rings with terminals Easy hook

BoxScrew barrel

Single-strand fish hook Multi-strand boxToggle

FoldoverBarrel

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What better way to express yourself than towear a jewel on your lapel or shoulderthat says it all without words. Broochescan be simple platinum circles, abstractscribbles of silver, creatures of ruby andemerald, or dainty 14K gold bows. There'sdoubtless a brooch for anything you wantto be, say, or do. Whimsical or dramatic,designer or mainstream, pins andbrooches are always in style.

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brooches

Animal Motif

Circle

Electroform

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Designer

Floral

Bar

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brooch findings

Pin-backs and Pin-back Components

Tie-tack Safety Clutches

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T he cuff link is an ingenious device withmore than a mere utilitarian purpose.Today’s cuff links express a mood, apassion, or a sense of tradition. In basicblack onyx or set with diamonds andpearls, cuff links let you wear your hearton your French-cuffed sleeve. Show theworld what you’re made of and collectcuff links for work, play, and pleasure.

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cufflinks

Onyx

Knot

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Designer

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cufflink findings

Swivel or toggle backs

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Birthstones January Garnet

February Amethyst

March Aquamarine, Bloodstone

April Diamond

May Emerald

June Alexandrite, Cultured Pearl, Moonstone

July Ruby

August Peridot, Sardonyx

September Sapphire

October Opal, Tourmaline

November Topaz, Citrine

December Turquoise, Zircon

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Anniversary Modern Jewelry-Related GiftTenth Diamond jewelry

Eleventh Fashion jewelry

Twelfth Pearls

Fourteenth Gold jewelry

Twentieth Platinum

Twenty-fifth Silver

Thirtieth Diamond

Thirty-fifth Jade

Fortieth Ruby

Forty-fifth Sapphire

Fiftieth Gold

Fifty-fifth Emerald

Sixtieth Diamond

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AAdjustable shanks, 12Animal motif brooch, 39Anniversary bands, 6Anniversary gift list, 48

BBails, 36Ball chain, 23Ball earrings, 17Bar brooch, 40Barrel clasp, 37Bar-set band, 6Belcher chain, 25Bezel-set slide solitaire, 36Bezel setting, 3Birthstone list, 46Bismark chain, 24Black onyx and diamond men’s ring, 8Black onyx and diamond nugget-style men’s ring, 8Boston-link chain, 24Box clasps, 37Bracelet, designer, 35Bracelet, gem-set link, 35Bracelet, I.D., 34Bracelet, medical I.D., 34Bracelet, tennis, 33Bracelet findings, 36-37Bracelets, 32-37Bracelets, cuff, 33Bracelets, hinged bangle, 34Bracelets, diamond link, 33Brooch, animal motif, 39Brooch,bar, 40Brooch, circle, 39Brooch, designer, 40Brooch, electroform, 39Brooch, findings, 41Brooch, f loral, 40Brooches, 38-41Button earrings, 16Bypass ring, 7Byzantine chain, 22

CCable chain, double, 24Cable chain, drawn-f lat, 24Cable chain, elongated, 24Cable chain, open, 24

Cable wire chains, 22Cathedral shank, 13C-chain, 24Chain findings, 36-37Chains, 20-25Chains, safety, 36Channel setting, 3Circle brooch, 39Clasps, 37Cluster mounting, pendant, 36Cluster ring, 7Clutch, butterf ly earring, 19Clutches, earring, 19Clutches, tie-tack safety, 41Cobra chain, 24Coin men’s ring, 8Collar necklace, 30Colored gem and diamond rings, 9Combination finish two-tone diamond band, 7Cuff link findings, 45Cuff links, 42-45Cuff links, designer, 44Cuff links, knot, 43Cuff links, onyx, 43Cultured mabé pearl earrings, 16Cultured pearl strand, 28Curb chain, oval, 22Curb chain, 22Curb chain, double, 22Curb chain, parallel, 23

DDesigner bracelets, 35Designer brooch, 40Designer cuff links, 44Designer drop earrings, 17Designer necklaces, 31Designer rings, 9Diamond and colored gem rings, 9Diamond bands, 6, 7Diamond engagement rings, 5Diamond heart pendants, 29Diamond link bracelet, 33Diamond men’s rings, 8Diamond solitaire necklaces, 28Diamond solitaire pendant, 28Diamond solitaire post mountings, earrings, 18Diamond solitaire rings, 5Diamond stud earrings, 16

Index

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Diamond wedding sets, 6Dome band, 7Dome millgrain band, 7Double-link chain, fancy, 25Drop earrings, designer, 17

EEarring findings, 18-19Earrings, 14-20Easy hook clasp, 37Eight-stone peg setting, 13Electroform brooch, 39Electroform earrings, 16End caps, 36Engraved two-tone band, 7Eternity bands, 6Eternity wire, 19

FFashion rings, 7Figaro chain, 23Figaro chain, bowtie, 23Figaro chain, diamond-cut, 23Figaro chain, f lat, 23Findings, bracelet, 36-37Findings, brooch, 41Findings, chain, 36-37Findings, cluster, 13Findings, cuff link, 45Findings, earring, 18-19Findings, illusion, 13Findings, kidney wire, 18Findings, lever back, 18Findings, necklace, 36-37Findings, ring, 12-13Findings, trim, 13Finger-fit shanks, 12Fish hook clasp, single-strand, 37Flat band, 7Flat gooseneck chain, 22Flat shank, 13Floral brooch, 40Flush setting, 3Foldover clasp, 37Four-prong basket solitaire mounting, pendant, 36Four-prong round high pinch head, 12Four-prong round low base head, 12Freeform ring, 7Freeform slide pendant, 29Freeform two-tone ring, 7

GGem-set earrings, 16-17Gem-set necklaces, 27Gooseneck chains, 22Guard, 11

HHalf-ball earrings, 17Half-round gooseneck chain, 22Half-round pinch shank, 13Half-round shank, 13Heads, 12Heart chain, 25Herringbone chain, 22Herringbone chain, beveled, 22Hinged bangle bracelets, 34Hinged earrings, 15, 17Hinged earrings, gem-set, 17Hoop earrings, 15, 17Hoop earrings, gem-set, 17

IIllusion setting, 3, 13Invisible setting, 3Invisible-set diamond band, 7

JJackets, earring, 18Jump rings, 36

KKidney wire earring finding, 18Kidney wire earrings, gem-set, 17Knot cuff links, 43

LLace chain, 25“La Pousette” earring clutches, 18“La Pousette” earring posts, 18Lever back earring findings, 18Lever back earrings, gem-set, 17Link necklace stampato, 29Lobster claw clasp, 37Lockets, 29

MMAB Superfit® adjustable shank, 12Mariner chain, 23Mariner chain, hollow, 23Men’s rings, 8

Mirror chain, 25Mountings, pendant, 36Multi-strand box clasp, 37

NNecklace findings, 36-37Necklaces and pendants, 26-31Necklaces, gem-set, 27Non-pierced earrings, 19

OOmega back earrings, gem-set, 16Omega backs, 19Omega chains, 21, 22Onyx cuff links, 43

PPavé setting, 3Pendant mountings, 36Pendants, designer, 31Pin-backs and components, brooch, 41Post earrings, gem-set, 16Post-mountings, diamond solitaire, 18Post mountings, gem-set, 19Posts, earring, 18Promise rings, 8Prong setting, 3

RRing findings, 12-13Ring guard, 11Ring shanks, 12-13Ring semi-mounts, 10Ring wraps, 11Rings, 4-13Rolling ring, 8Rolo chain, 25Rope chain, 23Rope chain, French, 24Rope chain, triple, 24Rope chain, twisted, 25Round omega chains, 22

SSafety chains, 36Safety clutches, tie-tack, 41Screw backs, 19Screw barrel clasp, 37Semi-mounts, 10Serpentine chain, 22Serpentine chain, twisted, 22Setting styles, 2-3Seven-stone top, 13

Shanks, 12, 13Shepherd’s hook, 19Side-by-side chain, 25Signet men’s ring, 8Singapore chain, 24Single-strand fish hook clasp, 37Six-prong marquise head with point, prongs, 12Six-prong marquise head with V-end prongs, 12Six-prong open-back buttercup head , 12Six-prong round low base head, 12Six-prong round low pinch peg head, 12Six-prong round tulip head, 12Slide bezel-set solitaire, 36Slide pendant, freeform, 29Snake chain, 25Spring ring clasps with terminals, 37Stackable rings, 8Stampato link necklace, 29Station necklace, 29Stocking mesh chain, 25Stone top, men’s ring, 13Straight-line link bracelet, diamond, 33Swivel back cuff link findings, 45

TTeenage rings, 8Tennis bracelet, 33Tension setting, 3Tie-tack safety clutches, 41Tin cup necklace, 29Toggle back cuff link findings, 45Toggle clasp, 37Torsade necklace, 30Track chain, 25Tri-color rolling ring, 8Trim finding, 13Two-tone band, 7Two-tone diamond band, 7Two-tone combination finish diamond band, 7Two-tone engraved band, 7Two-tone freeform fashion ring, 7

U“U” chain, 25

WWaterfall ring, 7Wedding bands, 7Wheat chain, 25Wraps, 11

Y“Y” necklace, 28

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AcknowledgmentsThe Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people andorganizations for their assistance in providing some of the gems, jewelry and photographyused in this assignment:

Julius Braun, Collection of Buddy Braun, 9

Bulgari, 31 (bottom)

Gold Rush, 40 (top right)

Nicholas Logsdon, Facets Studio, 31 (top)

Platinum Guild International, Brooch by Link Wachler & Sons, 40 (top left)

Michael M. Scott, 47

Photo Credits ©©GIA & Tino Hammid/photography, 17

©©Steve Kretchmer, Robert Weldon/photography, 3

©Shane McClure/photography, 40 (top right)

©©Robert Weldon/photography, 44

©©Harold & Erica Van Pelt/photography, 47