Download - GIA's Jewelry Essential's Reference Guide
ESSENTIALR e f e r e n c e G u i d e
J e w e l r y
ESSENTIALJ e w e l r y
R e f e r e n c e G u i d e
©The Gemological Institute of AmericaCarlsbad, California 92008©2000 The Gemological Institute of AmericaAll rights reserved: Protected under the Berne Convention.Printed in the United States.
Table of ContentsIntroduction 1
Setting Styles 2
Rings 4
Ring Findings 12
Earrings 14
Earring Findings 18
Chains 20
Necklaces and Pendants 26
Bracelets 32
Necklace, Chain, and Bracelet Findings 36
Brooches 38
Brooch Findings 41
Cufflinks 42
Cufflink Findings 45
Birthstones 46
Anniversary Gift List 48
Index 50
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Jewelry is our most intimate adornment. It is also oneof our most complex—the sheer scope and variety ofjewelry types and styles present a challenge to anysales associate, seasoned or novice. And yet, the chal-lenge of selling all kinds of jewelry with confidence canbe a welcome one, especially with the EssentialJewelry Reference Guide at your side.
One of the most powerful ways to learn about the variousstyles of jewelry is by looking at them. The EssentialJewelry Reference Guide enables you to do this. It placesa representative selection of the popular and traditionaljewelry styles in your hands. From cuff bracelets to cuff-links, from omega necklaces to omega-back earrings,most of the jewelry you are likely to sell is here, beauti-fully photographed and concisely labeled.
But the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide offersmuch more than a closer look at the spectacular arrayof jewelry available today. This valuable guide linksword and image in an easy-to-understand format. Takeadvantage of the terminology you find within the pagesof this vibrant compendium. Industry terms like “kidneywire,” “figaro,” or “bypass ring” are part of the languageof jewelry. Your new vocabulary will allow you to servecustomers with ease, accuracy, and professional flair.
In addition, the Essential Jewelry Reference Guide isorganized with the student’s convenience in mind.Jewelry items are grouped by categories (rings,bracelets, and so on). Whether you need specific infor-mation for a sale, or just want to browse, the guide isdesigned to help you expand your expertise quicklyand easily.
As a helpful plus, the Essential Jewelry ReferenceGuide includes two customer gift-giving lists—onefor birthdays, one for anniversaries—that you’ll referto often.
“A Jewelry Gallery” in your Jewelry Essentials courseprovides a tantalizing discussion of today’s popularjewelry. The Essential Jewelry Reference Guideexpands on that knowledge by taking you on a visualtour of these jewelry styles. Enjoy your journey.
©2000 by GIA. All rights reserved.
INTRODUCTION
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Fine jewelry settings cradle precious cargo.From traditional to innovative, their vari-ety is as endless as human creativityitself. And without a beautiful setting todefine it, the most stunning of gemsremains unfulfilled. Tiny diamondsshimmering like newfallen snow. A rubyribbon of seamless crimson. These areonly two of the wondrous images jewel-ry settings conjure.
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setting styles
Prong
Pavé
Channel
Tension
Illusion
Bezel
Flush
Invisible
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O ther than our facial expressions, ourhands are our most eloquent attribute.No wonder rings are the most popularjewelry type. We choose a ring not onlyto adorn our finger, but also to make astatement, a promise, an invitation.Shakespeare’s King Richard III spokeardently and well when he said,
“Look, how my ring encompasseth thyfinger,Even so thy breast encloseth my poorheart;Wear both of them, for both of themare thine.”
Whether rings conveyed the imprint of aroyal seal or sealed a promise ofmarriage, they hold a place of honor injewelry history. In modern times, theyare equally meaningful. Explore theirmany messages.
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rings
Diamond Engagement
Diamond Solitaire
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Diamond bar set
Diamond eternity
Sapphire and diamond
Anniversary Bands
Diamond Wedding Sets
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Dome millgrain
Dome
Invisible-set diamond Engraved two-tone
Diamond two-tone
Two-toneDiamond two-tonecombination finish
Bypass
Cluster
Two-tone freeform
Waterfall
Freeform
Wedding Bands
Fashion
Flat
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Diamond Diamond coin Black onyx and diamond
Black onyx and diamond nuggetSignet
Stackable
Tri-color Rolling
Teenage (Promise)
Men’s
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Designer
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Semi-Mounts
Colored Gem and Diamond
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Guard
Wraps
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Heads
Four-prong round high pinch Six-prong round low pinch peg Six-prong round tulip
Six-prong round low base Four-prong round low base Six-prong open back buttercup
Six-prong marquise headwith point prongs
Six-prong marquise headwith V end prongs
Adjustable Shanks
MAB Superfit®
ring findings
Finger-fit shanks
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Seven-stone top
Illusion, Cluster, and Trim
Eight-stone peg setting
Illusion setting
Stone top for man’s ring
Cathedral Flat
Half roundHalf round pinch
Shanks
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Romeo described his Juliet as a rich jewelthat graced “the cheek of night” like anearring sweeping the cheek of a dark-skinned beauty. Whether they dangledramatically against the face or nestledemurely at the earlobe, earrings providebright counterpoint to the changingmelody of an expressive countenance.One of the most ancient of jewels, ear-rings have metamorphosed repeatedlyover the centuries in response to fashionand fancy.
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earrings
Slide
Hoop
Hinged
Non-pierced
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Diamond Stud
Button Cultured Mabé Pearl
Gem-set OmegaBack with Post
Electroform
Gem-set Post
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Gem-set Kidney WireDesigner Drop
Gem-set Lever Back
Gem-set Hoop and Hinged
Ball and Half-ball
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earring findings
Diamond Solitaire Post Mountings
Posts “La Pousette” Posts and Clutches
Lever Back
Jackets
Kidney Wire
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Shepherd’s HookScrew Backs
Eternity Wire
Omega Backs
Gem-set Post Mountings
Butterfly Clutch
Clutches
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G leaming intertwined links speaking ofpower and bounty, precious metalchains are timeless in appeal. Thousandsof years ago, artisans hand-wroughtthem of twisted loops of wire. Today,complex software drives machines toknit fantastically intricate chain pat-terns never before achieved. Kissing awrist or resting against a breastbone,jewelry chains are always a luxury.
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chains
Omega
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Cable wire (top two), round omega (bottom) Flat gooseneck (top), half-round gooseneck(bottom two)
Curb
Double curb
Oval curb
Beveled herringbone
Herringbone
Serpentine
Byzantine Twisted serpentine
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Diamond-cut figaroBowtie figaro
Hollow mariner
Mariner
Rope
Figaro
Ball
Flat figaro
Parallel curb
Singapore
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Twisted rope
Elongated cable
Open cable
Cobra
Triple rope French rope
Boston link
Drawn flat cable
Bismarck
Double cable
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Side-by-side Mirror
Snake Stocking mesh
Wheat
Heart
Rolo (top), belcher (middle four), “U” (bottom)Fancy double link (top three), lace (bottomtwo)
Track
C-chain
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From the sweet wink of a little girl'slocket to the bold spark of a fabulousdiamond necklace, jewelry that encir-cles the throat works instant magic.Necklaces come in myriad forms andstyles, and pendants of endless varietyoften add spice to their charm. Inrecent years, pearl strands and dia-mond solitaire pendants have won aplace close to the hearts of jewelrylovers. But bright metal collars, sultry“Y” necklaces, and many other lookscontinue to appeal, now and into thefuture. Whatever style you choose towear, necklaces invite others to stepcloser to your magic spell.
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necklaces and pendants
Gem-set
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“Y”
Diamond Solitaire
Cultured Pearl Strand
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Station
Stampato Link
Free-form Slide
Diamond Heart
Locket
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Torsade
Collar
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Designer
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Worn close to the pulse, bracelets are anintimate pleasure. Primitive artisans fash-ioned them in the forms of snakes andram’s heads. Modern bracelet styles can besimilarly bold, or as subtle as a whisper.Chain bracelets echo the pattern of theirsister neck chains. Cuff bracelets of twist-ed metal make high-fashion statements.Meanwhile, the diamond tennis bracelet isa coveted classic that spans the genera-tions. And bangles—plain or gem-stud-ded, single or stacked—are simply ele-gant. The choices are as rich as the worldof jewelry itself.
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bracelets
Cuff
Diamond Link
Tennis
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Medical I.D.
I.D.
Hinged Bangle
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Designer
Gem-set Link
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necklace, chain, and bracelet findings
Four-prong basket solitaire
Pendant Mountings
Bails
Safety Chains
Jump Rings End Caps
Bezel-set slideCluster
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Clasps
Lobster claw Spring rings with terminals Easy hook
BoxScrew barrel
Single-strand fish hook Multi-strand boxToggle
FoldoverBarrel
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What better way to express yourself than towear a jewel on your lapel or shoulderthat says it all without words. Broochescan be simple platinum circles, abstractscribbles of silver, creatures of ruby andemerald, or dainty 14K gold bows. There'sdoubtless a brooch for anything you wantto be, say, or do. Whimsical or dramatic,designer or mainstream, pins andbrooches are always in style.
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brooches
Animal Motif
Circle
Electroform
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Designer
Floral
Bar
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brooch findings
Pin-backs and Pin-back Components
Tie-tack Safety Clutches
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T he cuff link is an ingenious device withmore than a mere utilitarian purpose.Today’s cuff links express a mood, apassion, or a sense of tradition. In basicblack onyx or set with diamonds andpearls, cuff links let you wear your hearton your French-cuffed sleeve. Show theworld what you’re made of and collectcuff links for work, play, and pleasure.
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cufflinks
Onyx
Knot
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Designer
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cufflink findings
Swivel or toggle backs
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Birthstones January Garnet
February Amethyst
March Aquamarine, Bloodstone
April Diamond
May Emerald
June Alexandrite, Cultured Pearl, Moonstone
July Ruby
August Peridot, Sardonyx
September Sapphire
October Opal, Tourmaline
November Topaz, Citrine
December Turquoise, Zircon
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Anniversary Modern Jewelry-Related GiftTenth Diamond jewelry
Eleventh Fashion jewelry
Twelfth Pearls
Fourteenth Gold jewelry
Twentieth Platinum
Twenty-fifth Silver
Thirtieth Diamond
Thirty-fifth Jade
Fortieth Ruby
Forty-fifth Sapphire
Fiftieth Gold
Fifty-fifth Emerald
Sixtieth Diamond
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AAdjustable shanks, 12Animal motif brooch, 39Anniversary bands, 6Anniversary gift list, 48
BBails, 36Ball chain, 23Ball earrings, 17Bar brooch, 40Barrel clasp, 37Bar-set band, 6Belcher chain, 25Bezel-set slide solitaire, 36Bezel setting, 3Birthstone list, 46Bismark chain, 24Black onyx and diamond men’s ring, 8Black onyx and diamond nugget-style men’s ring, 8Boston-link chain, 24Box clasps, 37Bracelet, designer, 35Bracelet, gem-set link, 35Bracelet, I.D., 34Bracelet, medical I.D., 34Bracelet, tennis, 33Bracelet findings, 36-37Bracelets, 32-37Bracelets, cuff, 33Bracelets, hinged bangle, 34Bracelets, diamond link, 33Brooch, animal motif, 39Brooch,bar, 40Brooch, circle, 39Brooch, designer, 40Brooch, electroform, 39Brooch, findings, 41Brooch, f loral, 40Brooches, 38-41Button earrings, 16Bypass ring, 7Byzantine chain, 22
CCable chain, double, 24Cable chain, drawn-f lat, 24Cable chain, elongated, 24Cable chain, open, 24
Cable wire chains, 22Cathedral shank, 13C-chain, 24Chain findings, 36-37Chains, 20-25Chains, safety, 36Channel setting, 3Circle brooch, 39Clasps, 37Cluster mounting, pendant, 36Cluster ring, 7Clutch, butterf ly earring, 19Clutches, earring, 19Clutches, tie-tack safety, 41Cobra chain, 24Coin men’s ring, 8Collar necklace, 30Colored gem and diamond rings, 9Combination finish two-tone diamond band, 7Cuff link findings, 45Cuff links, 42-45Cuff links, designer, 44Cuff links, knot, 43Cuff links, onyx, 43Cultured mabé pearl earrings, 16Cultured pearl strand, 28Curb chain, oval, 22Curb chain, 22Curb chain, double, 22Curb chain, parallel, 23
DDesigner bracelets, 35Designer brooch, 40Designer cuff links, 44Designer drop earrings, 17Designer necklaces, 31Designer rings, 9Diamond and colored gem rings, 9Diamond bands, 6, 7Diamond engagement rings, 5Diamond heart pendants, 29Diamond link bracelet, 33Diamond men’s rings, 8Diamond solitaire necklaces, 28Diamond solitaire pendant, 28Diamond solitaire post mountings, earrings, 18Diamond solitaire rings, 5Diamond stud earrings, 16
Index
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Diamond wedding sets, 6Dome band, 7Dome millgrain band, 7Double-link chain, fancy, 25Drop earrings, designer, 17
EEarring findings, 18-19Earrings, 14-20Easy hook clasp, 37Eight-stone peg setting, 13Electroform brooch, 39Electroform earrings, 16End caps, 36Engraved two-tone band, 7Eternity bands, 6Eternity wire, 19
FFashion rings, 7Figaro chain, 23Figaro chain, bowtie, 23Figaro chain, diamond-cut, 23Figaro chain, f lat, 23Findings, bracelet, 36-37Findings, brooch, 41Findings, chain, 36-37Findings, cluster, 13Findings, cuff link, 45Findings, earring, 18-19Findings, illusion, 13Findings, kidney wire, 18Findings, lever back, 18Findings, necklace, 36-37Findings, ring, 12-13Findings, trim, 13Finger-fit shanks, 12Fish hook clasp, single-strand, 37Flat band, 7Flat gooseneck chain, 22Flat shank, 13Floral brooch, 40Flush setting, 3Foldover clasp, 37Four-prong basket solitaire mounting, pendant, 36Four-prong round high pinch head, 12Four-prong round low base head, 12Freeform ring, 7Freeform slide pendant, 29Freeform two-tone ring, 7
GGem-set earrings, 16-17Gem-set necklaces, 27Gooseneck chains, 22Guard, 11
HHalf-ball earrings, 17Half-round gooseneck chain, 22Half-round pinch shank, 13Half-round shank, 13Heads, 12Heart chain, 25Herringbone chain, 22Herringbone chain, beveled, 22Hinged bangle bracelets, 34Hinged earrings, 15, 17Hinged earrings, gem-set, 17Hoop earrings, 15, 17Hoop earrings, gem-set, 17
IIllusion setting, 3, 13Invisible setting, 3Invisible-set diamond band, 7
JJackets, earring, 18Jump rings, 36
KKidney wire earring finding, 18Kidney wire earrings, gem-set, 17Knot cuff links, 43
LLace chain, 25“La Pousette” earring clutches, 18“La Pousette” earring posts, 18Lever back earring findings, 18Lever back earrings, gem-set, 17Link necklace stampato, 29Lobster claw clasp, 37Lockets, 29
MMAB Superfit® adjustable shank, 12Mariner chain, 23Mariner chain, hollow, 23Men’s rings, 8
Mirror chain, 25Mountings, pendant, 36Multi-strand box clasp, 37
NNecklace findings, 36-37Necklaces and pendants, 26-31Necklaces, gem-set, 27Non-pierced earrings, 19
OOmega back earrings, gem-set, 16Omega backs, 19Omega chains, 21, 22Onyx cuff links, 43
PPavé setting, 3Pendant mountings, 36Pendants, designer, 31Pin-backs and components, brooch, 41Post earrings, gem-set, 16Post-mountings, diamond solitaire, 18Post mountings, gem-set, 19Posts, earring, 18Promise rings, 8Prong setting, 3
RRing findings, 12-13Ring guard, 11Ring shanks, 12-13Ring semi-mounts, 10Ring wraps, 11Rings, 4-13Rolling ring, 8Rolo chain, 25Rope chain, 23Rope chain, French, 24Rope chain, triple, 24Rope chain, twisted, 25Round omega chains, 22
SSafety chains, 36Safety clutches, tie-tack, 41Screw backs, 19Screw barrel clasp, 37Semi-mounts, 10Serpentine chain, 22Serpentine chain, twisted, 22Setting styles, 2-3Seven-stone top, 13
Shanks, 12, 13Shepherd’s hook, 19Side-by-side chain, 25Signet men’s ring, 8Singapore chain, 24Single-strand fish hook clasp, 37Six-prong marquise head with point, prongs, 12Six-prong marquise head with V-end prongs, 12Six-prong open-back buttercup head , 12Six-prong round low base head, 12Six-prong round low pinch peg head, 12Six-prong round tulip head, 12Slide bezel-set solitaire, 36Slide pendant, freeform, 29Snake chain, 25Spring ring clasps with terminals, 37Stackable rings, 8Stampato link necklace, 29Station necklace, 29Stocking mesh chain, 25Stone top, men’s ring, 13Straight-line link bracelet, diamond, 33Swivel back cuff link findings, 45
TTeenage rings, 8Tennis bracelet, 33Tension setting, 3Tie-tack safety clutches, 41Tin cup necklace, 29Toggle back cuff link findings, 45Toggle clasp, 37Torsade necklace, 30Track chain, 25Tri-color rolling ring, 8Trim finding, 13Two-tone band, 7Two-tone diamond band, 7Two-tone combination finish diamond band, 7Two-tone engraved band, 7Two-tone freeform fashion ring, 7
U“U” chain, 25
WWaterfall ring, 7Wedding bands, 7Wheat chain, 25Wraps, 11
Y“Y” necklace, 28
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AcknowledgmentsThe Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people andorganizations for their assistance in providing some of the gems, jewelry and photographyused in this assignment:
Julius Braun, Collection of Buddy Braun, 9
Bulgari, 31 (bottom)
Gold Rush, 40 (top right)
Nicholas Logsdon, Facets Studio, 31 (top)
Platinum Guild International, Brooch by Link Wachler & Sons, 40 (top left)
Michael M. Scott, 47
Photo Credits ©©GIA & Tino Hammid/photography, 17
©©Steve Kretchmer, Robert Weldon/photography, 3
©Shane McClure/photography, 40 (top right)
©©Robert Weldon/photography, 44
©©Harold & Erica Van Pelt/photography, 47