The “I’m glad

I knew that” GuIde

Fashion in 3D

Time-to-Market: Faster business success +++ Costs: Saving on samples +++

Dear Fashion Professionals,

3D is the key innovation in the fashion market – and it’s

causing quite a stir. Those who jump in first gain competi-

tive advantages, but they won’t have much experience to fall

back on. Those who wait ultimately miss the time window

for innovation and can only lag behind other manufacturers.

So how should you start with 3D? Information is the order of

the day and that’s why we’ve created this guide for you. It

combines the key information on 3D fashion and your options

with Vidya for your company. The result is a kind of map to

help you move confidently in the 3D world.

Enjoy your reading!

Dr. Andreas Seidl

Contents

Assurance: Reduce risk on purchases and collection decisions +++

Page 53D right from the start

Page 4What 3D can do for you

Page 6What 3D technology must achieve

Page 12 Which functions do you need?

Page 14 Currently happening in the industry

Page 16�Planning, starting & using 3D

Page 18 Vidya in your company

Vidya is simply different. A digital prototype is and will remain a digital prototype. It must come as close to reality as possible and that requires changes. Processes and individual work preferences must be adjusted. The simulation is very often so good that you can “touch” the design with your eyes. The actual “feel” can then be checked on the physical prototype during a later design phase.

° �Idle�and�waiting�times�are�eliminated�– You can create variants (material, color, cut) instantly. Collaboration and release become much simpler.

° �Producing�quality�– Reality is digitally reproduced and expanded. 3D can have more sig-nificance than a physical design, during fitting procedures on models with various standard sizes, for example, or thanks to functions like hiding cuts for better visibility.

° �Saving�costs�– Fewer physical prototypes reduce material consumption and workloads, while improved communication also provides relief.

Straight to the point

What 3D can do for you

Visualization and simulation. Vidya can portray and expand re-ality in the computer, creating new opportunities and competi-tive advantages throughout the entire fashion process.

Vidya is a leading software program for 3D garment simulation. It enables the visualization and simulation of collections, with correct body dimension data, original CAD designs and real material parameters – and you can use this data throughout the entire fashion process. That’s why Vidya is integrated with Cad.Assyst, iSize, PLM GoLive and with the Fashion Cloud GoLive.

3D with Reality Plus

Model�designs

Samples

Images�in�photo�quality�

Sales�samples�

4

Innovat ion signpost

3D right from the start

3D offers you all the possibilities of virtual product development. You can create and review many models, save on expen-sive prototypes and collaborate worldwide much more easily and all in parallel, assuming the simulation is as realistic as possible, with the correct pattern data, the right material parameters and – optimally – the body dimensions of your custom-ers. This is where Vidya comes in.

Real��3D�garment

Create�different�versions�instantly�and�collaborate�fast

Impressive�digital��sample�collection�and�sales�samples

Reliable�sizing�&�fitting�checks

5

Core questions: What 3D technology must achieve

Question 1

Can you integrate 3D into your processes?

Yes, but. Companies develop their own processes. 3D integration is easy, but it does bring a few changes with it which have to be “run in”. Preconditions for seamless development with 3D are continuous data exchange with the neighboring CAD and PLM fashion systems, as well as the optimal integration of body sizetables. The management of the extensive 3D data must also be solved.

One Process: 3D data with added value You can use 3D with Vidya for the entire fashion process. Vidya data can be integrated straight into your processes, because Vidya is integrated with Cad.Assyst, PLM GoLive and iSize. This avoids media interruptions.

What can you do with Vidya? You can profit from digital processes. 3D creates a wealth of new data and Vidya manages it perfectly in the Cad.Assyst database. Vidya is also optimally networked with CAD and PLM, saving you manual data entry and a lot of effort throughout the entire process.

One Process: Cad.Assyst + Vidya + PLM GoLive

6

Selection�of�material:��Check your colors and fabrics

Selection�of�designs:��Create variants and manage pattern repeats

Initial�and�trade�samples:�Sizing & fitting control; grading; collection dupli-cation

Pre-production��preparation:Coordination with partners and in the company with the free Vidya Viewer

Vidya can: digitally solve tasks in the fashion process

Simulation in 3D can be even better than the real try-on: in hiding pattern pieces, for instance.

Reality Plus:

7

What can you do with Vidya? You can display collections virtually. 80 % of all designs can already be visualized with Vidya – and this means huge savings.

Question 2

Has a digital design the quality of a physical design?

3D�in�size�&�fit�monitoringSimulation of basic clothing designs in comparison to reality. A study conducted at the Albstadt-Sigmaringen University.

From left to right:1. Fabric texture simulation; 2. Distance-to-body simulation; 3. A real sewn garment.

Yes!�The Albstadt-Sigmaringen University put this to the test and the result was that the real and the virtual try-ons are truly comparable. Many of the physical prototypes can be replaced, perhaps in some cases even all of them. The technical requirements for this are high quality simulation of human being, pattern and material, plus integration into a real 3D garment.

“The study has shown for the first time that the results of the real and the virtual try-on are really comparable. This clearly shows the great potential of virtual prototyping”, says Design Professor (FH) Barbara Puscher, Albstadt-Sigmaringen University.

8

Vidya can: digitally simulate real garments

Human�beings:�Vidya simulates persons with real data on the measure-ments, volume and motion behavior of their bodies.

Cut:�Just like in real life, the simulated 3D garment con-sists of the CAD cuts sewn together.

Material: Vidya uses real material parameters that show the fabric’s natural stretch behavior and structure.

3D�garment: Human being, cut and material interact perfectly for the simulation. The same body measure-ments/sizetables are used in CAD and in the creation of avatars. Drape, stretchability and structure correspond to the natural movement behavior.More examples

of Vidya simulations are at:www.vidya-software.com

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Yes. Economic viability is of course dependent on the individual objectives and the initial situation in your company. When it comes to cost savings though, the amortization of 3D technology is well worth considering. One obvious return on your investment is the savings on physical prototypes, not forgetting the far more important competitive advantages such as faster time-to-market by reducing idle and waiting times.

Vidya can: save you timeSince many idle and waiting times are eradicated and coordination worksteps are much sim-pler, you can use Vidya to significantly reduce your time-to-market and get your collections into the stores fast. Initial projects showed that previous development timeframes could be slashed by up to 35 % – and that equates with several weeks.

Is 3D a financially viable proposition?

1�|�Fabric�selection��2�|�2D�design�drawing�3�|�Pattern�development��4�|�Material�specification��5�|�Style�development��6�|�Sample�piece�creation�7�|�Collection�specification��8�|�Salesman�samples�9�|�Collection�transfer

Digital�process Time-to-market

Manual�process Time-to-market

Based on: the development process for an average collection piece from initial design to final acceptance.

Question 3

10

Vidya can: save on physical prototypes Saving on physical prototypes is a key advantage that impacts on both time-to-market and costs. The business case is of course dependent on the specific situation in your company. You can use the following example to assess your time and cost savings.

What can you do with Vidya? Increase productivity.You have to wait for physical prototypes, but with Vidya drafts there is no waiting time for either model or material – and mate-rial costs are totally eliminated. So you can develop much faster and more cheaply, depending on the initial situation.

*1 Average time spent on the first CAD design (8 h), sewing/fitting (4/1 h) and 3D simulation (4 h), as well as the average time taken for two alteration iterations in the existing CAD design (2 h), sewing/fitting (4/1 h) and 3D simulation (1 h)

*2 Average duration of sample creation including waiting times for fitting, sewing (incl. transport) and material delivery

*3 Potential savings in material costs by reducing the no. of prototypes of models not flagged for serial pro-duction. All collection pieces are sampled. Values are rounded off.

*4 Potential savings on the no. of physical prototypes not flagged for serial production. With Vidya: a sampling factor of 1.1; in the original process: a factor of 1.5. All collection pieces are sampled.

VIDYA�business�case:�ROI assessment of a typical garment manufacturer with 810 samples/prototypes and 540 collection pieces of varying complexity.

Data�source:�Michael Kessler, The Investment in the Software “Vidya” by Assyst. Approved undergraduate work at the AMD Academy Fashion & Design

Dropout��physical�prototypes*4

(Sampling of the entire collection)

0

0

0

0

15 h

5 weeks

75,000 Euro

50 %

30 h

10 weeks

150,000 Euro

100 %

Sample�creation*1�(Working time)

Sample�creation*2�(Duration)

Material�costs*3

(Sampling of the entire collection)

3D�

Manual

3D�

Manual

3D�

Manual

3D�

Manual

11

Must haves

Which functions do you actually need?

The human being – realistic dimensions, move-ment, motion behavior and body characteristics ° Scanatars: 3D avatars with real dimensions

° Target group or size-specific avatars and SizeGERMANY fashion manikins in 3D

° Custom scans as 3D models, e.g. your house model

° Natural motion behavior in postures

° Highlight: You can combine and store various poses during try-on in sizing & fitting

The cut – interaction of CAD and 3D ° Automated sewing when specifying sewing information in 2D

° Direct transfer of the CAD pattern or the size & fit-relevant pattern contour

° Optical changes in the 3D design are automatically and correctly transferred to the 2D pattern, e.g. set points, logos, prints, embroideries and the matching of repeats

° �Highlight: Measurement in 3D. Lineal and circumferential measuring tapes as characteristic curves on the avatar (also over garments)

Simulation – outfits, color management, light and shadow ° Integrate into your own background worlds: Image-based lighting, create your own lighting scenarios, shadow and highlight creation, self-shading

° Binding colors/color management: import spectrally measured colors and match them in neutral lighting scenarios

° Overlay colors for coloring textures in every color of a path. You can also import Photoshop color palettes

° Transfer of “dressed” avatars’ postures for checking size & fit

° �Highlight: 3D fitting of outfits by exchanging and combining 3D garments

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Material – simulation with physical material properties ° Optimal interaction of cut, material and manikin

° Instant variants in different fabrics and colors

° Comprehensive material library

° MaterialWizard for the rapid detection of measured material parameters

° SeemTool for seam imaging, e. g. for flat-look seams and stitches in different colors

° Imaging of different plies (up to 21) on top of one another

° Detailed imaging of pattern surfaces and textures

° Fabric thickness up to 3 cm

° Imaging of transparent material (opacity)

° Realistic drape by addressing the fabric’s properties

° �Highlight: Stretchability of fabrics in real-world strength, e. g. for the tensile force of rubber bands

Usability – fast and reliable simulation ° High performance

° Adjustable simulation quality (with long or short computation times)

° Storable presets

° Preview functions in CAD

° Freeze functions for single or multiple 3D pattern pieces

° Convenient view in 360° imaging

° �Highlight: New renderer for photo-realistic simulation in real-time

Communication and data – 3D in the fashion process ° Direct acquisition and transfer of data to the PLM system, plus the export of 3D models for 3D visualization tools like 3ds max and Maya

° Export of image-based 3D viewers for e-shops

° Powerful 3D data management in the Cad.Assyst database and Fashion Cloud GoLive

° �Highlight: Free 3D Vidya Viewer for collaboration with clients, colleagues and partners

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Opinions on 3d

Currently happening in the industry

How can we use 3D productively? Excerpt from Case Study, fashion 04

BRAX uses 3D to save time and costs in collection development. The company launched its first season with 3D using a digital house model in Vidya. The main objectives were to speed up development and extract as much benefit as possible from the 3D data, from design to sales.

Even the pilot simulatio n showed that BRAX could significantly reduce the number of its physical prototypes and develop more variants at the same time. Thanks to simulation in Vidya, the hit ratio of drafts rose considerably. Fewer physical prototypes were needed, avoiding unnecessary delays. The use of correct body measurements that matched the com-pany’s own sizetable was also crucial for BRAX. Even in the digital world, BRAX still works with a permanent house model, who is perfectly simulated.

“Vidya has the quality to achieve the competitive advantages that we want. We were very impressed by the imaging of our designs on our own house model.”“We expect to save even more time with 3D, achieving a quick response to the market trends that have become even more important for us as a vertical company.”“3D is not just “Plug and Play”. Anyone who expects this cannot achieve any market success.”Detlef Oesterreich, Head of IT, BRAX

Photo of the house model

1414

Read the full articles at www.human-solutions.com/fashion

Simulation in Vidya

Simulation in Vidya

We think in 3DExcerpt from the interview with Dr. Andreas Seidl, Managing Partner, Human Solutions/fashion 03

Virtual prototyping has three dimensions: time, cost and quality. In just a few years it will be as common as CAD is today.

“For companies with their own product development, virtual prototyping is the grand prize.”“We think in 3D, so we can work even better.”“You gain speed with every visual-ized piece. You build up a 3D library of your own collections, so to speak.”“To eliminate all the prototypes and samples would be utopian – but we can reduce their number dramatically.”“With 3D, development processes can be accelerated by 20 to 50 percent.”

Saving time with 3DExcerpt from an interview with Detlef Oesterreich, Head of IT, BRAX/fashion 04

BRAX is a well-established brand … and it’s growing. For some time now, the company has been working with Vidya in its womenswear blouses segment.

“With 3D in our processes, we can improve sizing & fitting and the punctuality of our deliveries even more.”“Our designs achieve a higher hit rate. We can risk more diversity and reduce the number of prototypes. Our house model is available in digital form, so we can forget about any more idle times in that respect. And we also use the simulation in Vidya for collaborating with our partners.”“If you want to work productively with 3D, you soon realize that using the real cut pieces, material parameters and body dimensions, plus management with PLM are all prerequisites.”

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The advantages are obvious – but how can you achieve them? And what questions does this pose for team col-leagues? The flow chart of our Assyst experts provides valu-able recommendations and can be an invaluable aid in your own planning.

Tips for your project: 1. The design sets the tone! Prod-ucts with lots of variants, such as pants (chinos, jeans), shirts (blouse, shirt, polo) and coats (sports) are ideal for the introduction. 2. Everyone’s needed – designers included! The sizetable for the basic pattern must be clarified and the right physical body has to be selected for the sizing & fitting philosophy. First time in 3D? Let Assyst show you what your model looks like in 3D! Quickly – but not too fast! Start with one model and a motivated team. Specify your timeframes clearly – too much time isn’t good either! 3. Learning time! What still doesn’t seem right? How are the experiences? How can the model be improved? What processes have been eliminated – and what should we add? Are there any new ideas for using 3D? 4. The moment of truth! How many prototypes have been saved? What do we miss from the old process? What process ballast have we finally jettisoned? Now you’re the experts! Experience has shown that values steadily im-prove the more practice a team gets – so repeat the success monitoring after four weeks, after the first collection and after the second collection!

In concrete terms

Planning, starting & using 3D

16

Clear goals and

timelines

All selected products

in 3D

First model for review

3D in actual use

° Select collection pieces

° Put a team together

° Define milestones

° Define and create scanatars

° Prepare designs

° Develop the first model

° Find opportunities for improvement

° Adjust project schedule

° Fine-tune the system

° Recognize specific potential savings

° Adapt process (optional)

° Full rollout

° Transfer 3D benefits to other segments

PlanningWorkshop

OptimizationWorkshop

Start System

installation, training

Success��monitoring�Conception

meeting

4.

3.

2.

1.

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And now

Vidya in your company …

1818

What�should�3D�do�for�us?

° Save time

° Shorten time-to-market

° Reduce costs

° Increase design quality

What�convinces�me�about�Vidya?

° Simulation quality

° Performance

° Degree of reality

° New possibilities in the fashion process

° Collaboration with partners and colleagues

Which�technical�possibilities��and�functions�are�our�top��priorities?

What�product�segments��would�be�ideal�for�entry?��

What�do�I�still�want�to�know�from�Assyst?

Who�should�get�involved�and�how�do�we�move�on?

Make�an�appointment��with�Assyst!

Your notes:

We will advise you about 3D fashion. Assyst GmbH, +49 (0)89-905 05 0, contact@assyst.de, www.assyst.de

Assyst is a company of the Human Solutions Group.

19

Fashion in 3DFashion CAD

Fashion PLM Fashion Manufacturing

Fashion Sizing & Fitting

The“I’m glad

I knew that”GuIde

The “This CAd can even

surprise me” GuIde

The“Let’s tackleefficiency”

GuIde

The“I want

sizing fitting”GuIde

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