eat magazine - march april 2013

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVELMARCH | APRILl 201

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Celebrating the Food & Drink of British Columbia

EXCEPTIONAL EATS! AWARD WINNERS

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EAT Magazine March-April 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 2/27/13 11:24 AM

2 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2013

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content

3www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2013

TapasConcierge Desk . . . . . . . 07

Epicure At Large . . . . . . .09

Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Good For You . . . . . . . . .11

Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Eating Well For Less . . . .18

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .27

Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .34

VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .36

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .38

Wine & Food Pairing . . .40

News from around BC . .42

What the Pros Know . . . .46

Cover photography: “Blonde on Blonde” by Michael Tourigny

EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locationsin BC including Victoria, Vancouver,Kelowna, The Islands and the Okanagan

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Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

DRINK Editor Treve RingSenior Wine Writer Larry Arnold

Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear

Food ReportersTofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear,Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan: Lindsay Muir | Nanaimo: Kirsten TylerWeb ReportersColin Hynes, Van Doren Chan, Elisabeth NylandContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart,Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz,Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Elizabeth Smyth Monk, Michaela Morris, Eliz-abeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Michael Tourigny, Scott Trudeau, SylviaWeinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

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without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island

Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed

in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves

the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Main PlatesRECIPESA Spring Dinner . . . . . . ..........30

FEATURESExceptional Eats! Awards ......22Small-Scale Meat Producers ...16

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VEGETABLE SALADSAT UCHIDAKabocha Salad Organic kabocha, organiccabbage, organic walnuts,organic greens, eggs withhomemade mayonnaiseGoma aeOrganic komatsuna, organic chard, organickale, organic chrysanthe-mum, carrot, enokimushroom with sesamesauce)Pg 19

Elizabeth Nyland

A MEETING OF THE MOUTHS


OKAY, I’VE FURTIVELY BROUGHT my own Périgord blacktruffle into a tiny café in Paris and shaved it onto anomelet. And yes, I’ve dragged coolers full of big steaks,garlic and Yukon golds for miles, deep into the forest, tocook them over a wood fire by a pristine lake. Sure, I’vebeen known to travel all the way across the county, inwinter, in search of the best lobster and haddock chowder(lobster is at its best when it comes from the coldestwaters). Yes, when it comes to food, I have obsessions. Butthe above obsessions are nothing compared to my pursuitof caramelized sugar. I admit it. My biggest obsession iscaramel.Caramel’s variety seems infinite. I love it as a sauce, in

ice cream, hard or soft candies, caramelized fruit, or

spooned right from the jar. Chewy toffees are bliss. I’vestalked restaurants known to bake tarte tatin (oh, thatflipped caramelized apple underbelly). Brittles, nougats,pralines, crème brûlée, dulce de leche, and crèmecaramel—I love them all (and often). Hell, I’ll even go outin a Victoria December rain for a tube’s worth of Rolo’s toget my fix. My caramel discovery this year is cajeta, or goat’s milk

caramel, a traditional Mexican confection. I tried twoversions on a recent trip to Oregon. Portland Creameryand Little Brown Farm both make superb examples—smooth and very rich with a wonderful depth of flavour.My other discovery is the Raleigh Bar from Xocolatl deDavid, a chewy bar of nougat, pecan, bourbon andcaramel. Definitely worth seeking out.But salted caramel is my siren call. Sugar, salt and fat –

dangerous but delicious. BC’s own Wild Sweets make a

sublime organic salted caramel spread. Artisan duChocolate in London (UK) sells 50,000 boxes a year oftheir original caramels—a “sweet liquid caramel with apinch of Noirmoutier Island’s grey salt, all captured in acocoa dusted shell of intense dark chocolate”. My ownsalted (Vancouver Island salt, of course) dulce de leche icecream is no slouch either and brings a crowd every time.As Nigella Lawson once said, “salted caramel is the classA drug of the confectionery world.”In this issue, EAT contributor Jennifer Danter has come

up with an uncomplicated but comforting spring dinner.Her Crispy Chicken Legs with Morel Sauce and Asparagusis easy to prepare, satisfying to eat and sings with freshspring flavour. For dessert (cover story) she does a newtake on the classic blonde brownie by adding bourbonand—you guessed it—salted caramel sauce—ooey gooeygoodness. I’m besotted. —Gary Hynes, Editor

Obsessioneditor’s note


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5www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2013



March7TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE (Vancouver and Whistler)On Mar 7, restaurants around Vancouver and Whistler will donate 25% of theirfood revenues to AIDS Vancouver. Support for Dining Out For Life continues togrow, as do the numbers of participating restaurant. Visit www.diningoutforlife.comfor a list of participating restaurants.

KAMLOOPS WINE FESTIVAL (Kamloops)The Kamloops Art Gallery is thrilled to present the 15th Annual Kamloops WineFestival starting Mar 7 and culminating with the grand finale of the ConsumerTasting Mar 16. This week is filled with various wine dinners and seminars to pleaseand intrigue the wine palate. Educational, entertaining and offering a chance tosample what may just become your new favourite wine, the festival is a fundraiserfor the gallery. (www.kag.bc.ca)

THE COWICHAN CHEF’S TABLE FOR MS (Duncan)This annual fundraising event for the Scotiabank MS Walk offers guests a miniculinary tour of the Cowichan Valley with spectacular 8-course lunch. Each courseis prepared by a different chef, and paired with a local wine or beverage. Chefsinclude Matt Horn of Cowichan Pasta, Fatima DaSilva of Bistro 161, Allan Aikmanand his VIU culinary students, Bill Jones of Magnetic North Cuisine, Steve Elskensof Farm's Gate Foods, Bruce Wood of Bruce's Kitchen in Ganges, Ian & Kim Blomof Merridale Cidery, Brad Boisvert of Amusé, Brock Windsor of Stone Soup Inn, andJanice Mansfield of Real Food Made Easy. Tickets are $125, with all proceeds goingto the MS Society. Mar 10 at Providence Farm. For tickets or more information onthis event please contact the MS Society at 250-748-7010 or by email([email protected]).

17TH ANNUAL CHOWDER CHOWDOWN (Ucluelet)Sample the best of the Pacific Northwest from local chefs. Gourmet secrets, momand pop specials and traditional family recipes. Have a taste of numerous samplesand flavours. Presented in partnership with District of Ucluelet Rec Commissionand Department. Mar 17, 11:30 am - 2 pm. (www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com)

PICA SPRING BREAK TEEN CULINARY BOOT CAMP (Vancouver)Teen Spring Break Camp 2013 is all about International Cuisine. Join us for a weekof internationally inspired menus along with a local tour of the Granville IslandPublic Market, Dining Room Etiquette Workshop and Lunch in Bistro 101 (PacificInstitute of Culinary Arts' student operated restaurant). Includes all supplies and in-gredients and Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts' logo apron. Mar 18-22. $450.(www.picachef.com)

CULINAIRE (Victoria)The fourth annual Culinaire event will provide Victorians the opportunity to savoursignature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restau-rants, lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food producers, and sip from a fine selectionof local and regional wines and craft beers. Proceeds benefit the annual scholar-ship program at Camosun College’s Culinary Arts Program. Mar 21. For full eventdetails and a current list of who will be presenting (www.culinairevictoria.com).

BC BITES AND BEVERAGES (Victoria) Learn about Victoria’s Sweet Secret: 100 years of Confectionary History. HistorianSherri Robinson explores Victoria’s competitive nature when it came to candy andchocolate production in the Colony of yesteryear. Sample some modern day sweetscreated by some of Victoria’s long-standing and ‘up and coming’ confectionarybusinesses. Mar 21, 7pm – 9pm at the Royal BC Museum. (www.royalbcmu-seum.bc.ca)

PROFESSIONAL COOK 1 AND 2 TRAINING (Vancouver Island University)The Culinary Institute of Vancouver Island (CIVI) at VIU provides students with 6-week training courses, offered through the Cowichan & Powell River campuses.Apprentices interested in getting their PC1 or PC2 levels on their way to PC3 RedSeal Journey Person. Contact Tanya Reiber - [email protected] or call (250)740-6112 to register.

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca


www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2013 7

AprilSWIRL, SIP AND SAVOUR THE EXPERIENCE (Cowichan Valley)To kick off the 2013 wine touring Cowichan wineries invite you to Be a Wine &Culinary Tourist on Your Own Island on the weekend of April 5 – 7, 2013 “Youdon’t have to go to Europe, California or even the Okanagan for a first class wine& culinary vacation, it’s all right here” says Alison Philp of Damali Lavender &Winery. Spend two days and nights at the Oceanfront Suites Hotel in eclecticCowichan Bay for a weekend full of wining and dining. Enjoy a leisurely breakfastbefore boarding your luxury tour bus each morning. Over the two full days of tour-ing you will visit 22 Oaks Winery, Averill Creek Vineyards, Blue Grouse Estate Win-ery, Enrico Winery, Damali Lavender & Winery, Merridale Ciderworks, Rocky CreekWinery, Silverside Farm & Winery and Unsworth Vineyards as well as two delight-fully different agri-lunch locations. Return on the Saturday evening to a Cowichanbuffet feast featuring local cuisine and of course there will be a local wine bar fea-turing the wines of the wineries you’ve visited during the day. For more info visit(www.wines.cowichan.net)

2ND ANNUAL OLIVER OSOYOOS OYSTER FESTIVAL (Osoyoos)Wednesday, April 17 to Sunday, April 22 including Canada’s First Oyster WineCompetition sponsored by EATmagazine. Details and events: (oooysterfestival.com)

DEERHOLME FARM DINNER AND BOOK LAUNCH (Duncan)Deerholme Farm is excited to launch their new cookbook – The Deerholme Mush-room Book - with a dinner based on recipes from the book. The cost for thisspecial dinner will be $120/person, including an autographed copy of the book.They will be featuring dishes made with local heritage pork — yes that meansBacon. It also means locally cured ham and a porchetta stuffed with mushroomsand seared with sea salt and rosemary crusted crackling — and of course mush-rooms, lots of mushrooms. April 20, 2013. (www.deerholme.com)

UNCORK YOUR PALATE (Victoria)A very special evening of wine, food and music at Victoria’s historic Crystal Garden,to benefit the Victoria Conservatory of Music. Participating restaurants and cater-ers will serve a sampling of hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, paired with fine winesfrom the Naramata Bench Wineries. Meet the winemakers and be the first to tasteNaramata’s Spring Release wines. Bid on wines and other exciting packages at thesilent and live auctions. Apr 23. Tickets: $95. Tickets will be available online atTicketRocket at ticketrocket.org/Uncork and at the Victoria Conservatory of Music250-386-5311 Toll free 1-866-386-5311. (www.vcm.bc.ca/calendars/uncork-your-palate)

7TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE (Vancouver Island)On Apr 25, restaurants across Vancouver Island will donate 25% of their foodrevenues to AIDS Vancouver Island. Support for Dining Out For Life continues togrow, as do the numbers of participating restaurant. (www.diningoutforlife.com)for a list of participating restaurants.

10TH ANNUAL OTTAVIO ANNUAL BIG CHEESE CUT (Oak Bay)Come see the kitchen boys and girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheesemade in the world today. Watch as they crack, cut and slice their way through theworld’s oldest cheeses. Learn about the animals and families that have producedthese beauties for generations. Taste the history and tradition of the cheese makingcraft. They will be starting with some smaller wheels of artisan cheeses fromQuebec and move through to the Italian king, Parmigiano Reggiano, and up to the225 kg behemoth, the organic, Swiss mountain Emmenthal. Samplings and specialson all cheeses cut. A great free event for the whole family. Apr 27 11.15 am - 1pm.

WILD EDIBLE FOODS OF SOUTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND (Victoria)This course will examine wild edible foods that are available in both urban andrural areas around victoria with emphasis on foods that are in season. Students willlearn through field trips by participating in the harvest and preparation of selectfoods. Slide show presentations and lectures will supplement hands-on experiences.Apr 27 & 28, 12pm - 5pm. $95 (tax exempt) (cstudies.royalroads.ca)

THE OKANAGAN FOOD & WINE WRITERS' WORKSHOP (Kelowna)Top food and wine writers—Curtis Gillespie, Amy Rosen, Shelley Boettcher and Jen-nifer Cockrall-King to name a few – lead info-packed, small, interactive discussionson everything from breaking into writing or bringing your career to the next level.April 28 to May 1. (www.okanaganfoodandwinewritersworkshop.com)

For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca


A VICTIM of Syria’s brutal civil war, the great, labyrinthine market or souk of Aleppo isoften described as the soul of that city (one of the oldest continuously inhabited citiesin the world). It was burned last September. The army and the rebels generouslycredited each other.Aleppo’s Souk al-Madina was a UNESCO World Heritage Site leapt from the fantasia of

the 1001 Arabian Nights: its 13 kilometres of twists and turns, arched corridors andthousands of stalls left you feeling like a mouse in a maze. And wafting through it likea flying carpet came the heady fragrance of za’atar, the Arabian spice mix irresistiblyherbaceous with thyme, nutty with sesame seeds andtart with sumac. We found the Aleppo souk towards the end of a

six-week journey on the ancient Incense Road, theroute of the caravans that carried the aromaticsfrankincense and myrrh from the Arabian Sea to the Mediterranean. We’d started inOman, crossed medieval Yemen to the Red Sea and turned north to Jordan, Syria and theAleppo souk.What an Ali Baba’s cave of treasures and pleasures that souk was: Want a cooking pot,

an armload of pomegranates, a sack of coffee beans or a kilo of pistachios? Step right up.We followed the throng to the spice market. We left with half a kilo of za’atar. In anhour, we were dunking warm pita into a pool of olive oil and then into the wondrousmix. Had there been instructions, they would have read: Take one bite and proceed toheaven. “Za’atar” is the Arab word for both wild thyme and the spice mix, so confusion has

been inevitable. Its history is foggy—it seems the centuries took it for granted—butrecords suggest it originated in Mesopotamia, today’s Iraq and northeast Syria.

The components can vary, sometimes combining oregano, cumin, fennel and caraway.Za’atar’s contemporary empire includes such cultures as Morocco, Libya, Greece, Turkey,Israel, Palestine, Syria, Jordan and Iraq.I have warm memories of the Jordanian breakfast: pita spread with olive oil and

za’atar—fuel for days of crawling around the ruins of Petra. Sprinkling it on goat cheeseis a tradition in the eastern Mediterranean. Palestinians mix it with yogurt at breakfast.The Lebanese are fond of it with fried eggs. In the Gulf States, they make a tea of it.It is an unimpeachable candidate for the Global Village kitchen. It gives sublime

accent to grilled fishes, meats and chicken. It infuses soups and salads, breads andbatters with exoticism. Potatoes roasted with olive oil, garlic and za’atar are as addictiveas frites. Some food-lovers dust it on goat cheese, and it can rescue cottage cheese fromdietary hell. And popcorn-lovers have their very own way with it.

Happily, it has arrived even on these rain-sweptshores, a beam of Mediterranean sunshine to distractfrom the Gothic skies that can slide over us like a dank,filthy duvet. The mix—and its individualcomponents—can be purchased in packages from

Victoria’s Middle Eastern stores the Blair Market on Pandora and Lakehill Grocery onQuadra. The genial proprietor of the Blair Market, known to customers as “Mat,” blends his

own every few days. Lakehill’s Yasser Youssef stocks four products from Jordan, Syriaand Lebanon. (Celiacs beware: commercial products often contain, but don’t list, wheat.“Gives the package heft, makes them more money,” scowls an observer.At home, we use it as casually as salt and pepper. I like the additional pizzazz it brings

to grilled salmon and barbecued lamb chops. We prefer to buy the ingredients—exceptfor thyme, which we pluck fresh from the garden—and blend them to our own taste. Igive more prominence to the sumac, whose lemony tartness opens up possibilities astintoxicating as Ali Baba’s Cave. I’m just not sure about the popcorn.


epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson

The Arabian spice mix is irresistibly herbaceous with thyme,nutty with sesame seeds and tart with sumac.

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The Zip of Za’atar

“I have warm memories of theJordanian breakfast”



In April, when veggie seeds I’ve planted begin unfurling their green leaves in mygarden beds, my taste buds start tingling at the sight of the first super-model-slenderrhubarb stalks. The plant’s gargantuan leaves look prehistoric, and in fact rhubarb isan ancient plant. Its roots have been used as a tonic herb in traditional Chinesemedicine for more than 2,000 years. However it’s not the roots that whet my appetite:it’s the thought of indulging in scrumptious desserts, chile-spiked chutneys and otherdelights I’ll create with the succulent red stalks.Rhubarb was a favourite in England in the mid-1700s. Gardeners learned to grow it

year-round by forcing the “crowns,” the root sections that sprout buds for new plants.This vegetable-fruit flourished in British greenhouses in the winter; plants could bestarted outdoors in early spring by placing terracotta forcing pots over the crowns andcovering them with fresh manure. Rhubarb crowns, often adorned with kitschycrown-shaped pots, were ubiquitous in Britain’s kitchen gardens, and rhubarb pie wasthe bee’s knees of tart tarts.Sure, you can mingle the stalks of the “pie plant” (rhubarb’s nickname) with

strawberries to make classic straw-rhub pie, but there are so many other possibilities.Try pork crown roast with rhubarb-walnut stuffing, made with rhubarb, ground pork,bread cubes, chicken broth, onions, celery, toasted walnuts, sugar and spices. Bake thisyummy stuffing for 1½ hours at 350°F. I love the taste sensation of roasted asparagus with rhubarb vinegar, which I make

by sautéing sliced shallots and three stalks of chopped rhubarb in extra-virgin olive oil.I add half a cup of white balsamic vinegar and simmer until the rhubarb softens, thenI strain the infused vinegar through a fine mesh strainer into a saucepan. I simmer itfor five minutes until it is syrupy, then drizzle it on the roasted spears. It’s like eatingspring.This versatile veggie-fruit can be buckled with berries, deep-dished in a cobbler,

streusel-topped in a crumble or biscuit-covered in a slump or grunt. Its tart astringencyis a great fusion with sweet pavlova. Rhubarb is superb in custardy clafouti, a gorgeousyellow egg/red rhubarb dish fancy enough for Sunday brunch. Cover rhubarb with aflan-like batter to create flaugnarde, a rustic pancake-like clafouti cousin.Rhubarb yogurt parfait is one of my favourite treats. Cook chopped rhubarb with

berries, sugar, lemon zest and juice. Add rosewater to the cooked compote. Sautéslivered almonds in butter with ground cardamom, sugar and sea salt, and alternatecompote, nut mixture and yogurt layers in parfait glasses. Rhubarb is high in potassium and cholesterol-lowering fibre (but do peel the fibrous

strings off the stalks before cooking.) It freezes well, so I’ll still have plenty on handwhen my June strawberries are ripe. Until then, I’ll use frozen blueberries and straw-berries from last year’s crop to riff on rhubarb.If you don’t grow your own, go to www.islandfarmfresh.com/products/Rhubarb/ for

local farms that sell fresh rhubarb from April to August.

get fresh — COOKING BY THE SEASON— by Sylvia Weinstock

The Pie Plant Explore rhubarb beyond pastry.

PLACE RHUBARB and 1 cup of the sugar in asaucepan over medium heat. Stirring often, bringto a boil, and then gently simmer until thick,about 15 minutes. Stir in blueberries and cook 2minutes. Set aside to cool.Spoon mascarpone into a large bowl. Stir in

orange zest, 1/2 cup sugar and vanilla. Set aside.Whip cream with 1 Tbsp sugar until soft peaksform; fold gradually into mascarpone mixture.Combine orange juice and Grand Marnier in a

deep plate. Dip both sides of ladyfingers in theliquid and arrange in a 9-by-13-inch glass dish.Spread ladyfingers with a layer of fruit and thenspread a layer of mascarpone on top. Add an-other layer of ladyfingers and pour leftoverjuice/liqueur over top. Spread with mascarponeand finish with fruit. Cover with plastic wrap,place on a baking sheet (to catch any overflow)and refrigerate overnight.

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Rhubarb Blueberry Tiramisu Serves 12-16

4 cups fresh rhubarb, sliced into 1-inchpieces1½ cups sugar (divided)8 cups blueberries 475 g mascarpone cheeseFine zest of 1 orange1 Tbsp vanilla2 cups whipping cream1 Tbsp sugar¾ cup orange juice¼ cup Grand Marnier2 150-g packages giant ladyfingers



good for you — by Pam Durkin

Cheese RedeemedAbstaining from cheese for health reasons?Here’s some tasty news.

ONCE VILIFIED as a diet-derailing, artery-clogging foe, cheese is now heralded as ahealth-enhancing superfood. What caused the switch? Scientists have discoveredcheese contains a unique compound that can knock out cancer cells and help preventosteoporosis and cardiovascular disease. Let’s take a closer look at what’s putting cheesein the nutritional spotlight.Though cheese contains many beneficial vitamins and minerals, it is its

menaquinone content that has health experts around the globe swooning.Menaquinone, a unique form of vitamin K2, is a rare nutrient with a profoundlybeneficial effect on human health. Recent research has revealed that, without vitaminK2, calcium regulation goes awry. Vitamin K2 helps “usher” calcium into bone, whereit is needed to build and maintain a healthy bone mass. Without sufficient vitamin K2,calcium gets “re-routed” to arterial walls, forming plaque, which can result in thedevelopment of coronary, renal or neurodegenerative diseases. And the vitamin’shealth benefits don’t end there. It also discourages the growth of tumours and killscancer cells directly. Not surprisingly, German researchers, in a study involving morethan 24,000 participants, found that those who ate the most vitamin K2-rich cheesecut their risk for fatal cancers by 28 percent.Unfortunately, there is one negative aspect to vitamin K2—it is not contained in a

wide variety of foods. Natto, a fermented soybean dish from Japan, has the highestvitamin K2 content, but it is difficult to find and even more difficult to consume,thanks to its unpalatable taste. Next is goose liver pȃté, a pricey gourmet item fromFrance that is hardly standard fare for the average consumer. Rounding out the topthree foods highest in vitamin K2 is—you guessed it—delicious, affordable, versatilecheese!When it comes to vitamin K2 content, however, not all cheeses are created equal. In

fact, some cheeses, like processed cheese, cottage cheese and most soft cheeses,contain no menaquinone at all. It’s the hard European cheeses like Edam, Emmenthal,Gouda and Jarlsberg that rank highest in vitamin K2 content. This is due to twofactors—the specific bacterial cultures and traditional methods used to make thesecheeses, and the fact that the milk used is often from grass-fed cows. Any cheesefermented with lactic bacteria will have some menaquinone content, but those madewith milk from grass-fed cows will have even more. In fact, these four particularvarieties are so rich in the nutrient they’ve been singled out and recommended byhealth gurus such as Dr. Andrew Weil, Dr. Mehmet Oz and renowned cancer researcherWilliam Li.Before you wolf down a wheel of Jarlsberg, though, remember that cheese is

undeniably calorific. Experts recommend eating it more often—but in moderateamounts. In the German study cited above, those who ate the most cheese consumedit daily, but limited their portion size to a 1½ oz. serving.To reap the health benefits of this fromage quartet, you don’t have to plan a trip to

Europe. Plenty of fine cheese shops, delis and select supermarkets in town carry a widerange of European cheeses. Consider trying the following examples—you’ll enhanceyour health and your meals.

Edam The Market on Yates and Maria’s Deli and European Imports both carry amild, nutty German variety that pairs beautifully with fruit. Emmenthal Ottavio has a cave-aged Emmenthal that has a decided sweetness I

love. For patriots, I highly recommend Canadian-made L’Ancêtre OrganicEmmental—it’s chock full of K2, scrumptious and available at Lifestyles and MotherNature’s Market. Gouda Landana’s 1,000-day aged Gouda, available at the Market on Yates, is a

delight—its punchy flavour marries well with robust beers and full-bodied wines.Hilary’s Cheese shop on Fort Street carries a blue Gouda with a crumbly texture thatmelds perfectly with salad dressings. Jarlsberg The Norwegian original, with its buttery-like taste, is the perfect addition

to any sandwich. The Market on Yates carries both regular and “light” versions.



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Olive the Senses

Rebecca Wellm

anreporter — Victoria

Dim lights, ambient beats and a Parisien cocktail—therestaurant’s version of a Cosmopolitan and made with Lillet,Pineau de Charentes and pomegranate juice —launch ourevening. Enter Ça Va Bistro Moderne, opposite the BelfryTheatre, Fernwood’s latest culinary treasure.

Ça Va is chef-owner Fauna Martin’s first bistro, which sheopened in December. Born and bred in Fernwood, Martinstudied the culinary arts at Camosun and completed herapprenticeship in Australia at the illustrious Montrachet inBrisbane and Brown Sugar in Byron Bay. The influence of theclassic French gastronomy of the former and the creative flairand attention to local and seasonal produce of the latter areevident in the scope of Martin’s menus and her unique take onwest-coast style.

The little Qualicum scallops arrive first accompanied by acaper-raisin puree, sweet potato butter and candied pancetta.The presentation is meticulous and stunning. The scallops aretender, the sweet potato butter mild, balancing the crisp saltinessof the pancetta. The caper-raisin puree, applied in a ring ofpaisleys along the plate’s edge, is a curious and lovely harmonyof sweetness and brininess.

Next we sample the twice-baked Taleggio cheese soufflé withanise cream and pomegranate molasses (a reduction commonin Middle Eastern dishes). Crowned with julienned celery andapple, it is smooth and rich, in no way exhibiting Taleggio’ssignature funk.

The lemon and goat cheese ravioli, roasted local chestnutsand preserved lemon butter is delightful, another finely balanceddish in texture and flavour. A side salad features sweet andbitter greens, lavender honey, anchovy, caper and tarragon.

While we enjoy the muddled cucumber and simple syruppalate cleanser, we consider what “modern cuisine” reallymeans. According to Martin, “Modern cuisine brings ininfluences from globalization and immigration to people takingmore care to use local and seasonal products. It means using anew ingredient in a traditional recipe. It is not about gastronomyto me, it is taking the modern world into consideration andmaking it (the flavours and food) work.”

The pork belly and corn milk with Brussels sprouts and pickledmustard seeds arrives, along with a duck pȃté with spiced pearand walnuts. The pork belly skin is chewy and crispy with a lushbelly. The corn milk (corn and water mixed and strained throughcheesecloth) is quietly sweet. I enjoy the small hit of heat from thepickled mustard seed. And while the duck pȃté is silky anddivine, it isn’t attention grabbing. Eaten with the spiced pear, itis almost a savoury dessert that would pair well with a nice port.

Part of the allure of Martin’s Fernwood bistro is its versatility.Perusing the menu, I note that I could pop in for fish pie withsoubise (bechamel-based sauce containing strained or pureedonions), a Driftwood Brewery Fat Tug and a good book. Or Icould join friends for a few appies and drinks or hunker down fora long feast. And there’s the added attraction of the cocktails—few Victoria haunts can make a solid cocktail and feed you wellat the same time. BY GILLIE EASDON

Ça Va Bistro Moderne | 1296 GladstoneAve., Victoria | 250-590-7982| cavavictoria.com

Ça Va Bistro Moderne

Elizabeth Nyland

left: Fustis hold olive oils and balsamic vinegars right: Owner/Operator Emily Lycopolus

Steve and Emily Lycopolus fell in love with olive oil while spending a year in Europe visiting Steve’s familyroots in Italy’s Marche region. Tasting fresh-pressed, unadulterated olive oil from the family’s groves literallychanged the young couple’s lives. In September, they opened Olive the Senses, a split-level, 1,900-square-footstore/tasting room in the Hudson.

“When we returned to North America we couldn’t find any olive oil like we’d experienced in Italy,” Emilyexplains as we settle into a bright corner of the sleek, industrial-designed store. “We finally connected with aCalifornia source that do full chemical analysis of all their oils and gave us direct contact with the growers.”

“We do our own chemicalanalysis too,” adds Steve, “send-ing our products to German andAustralian labs that specialize intesting olive oil. We have higherstandards than the InternationalOlive Oil Council.”

When I mention a New Yorker

article I’d read about corruptionin the olive oil industry, the youngcouple exclaim simultaneously,“That’s Tom Mueller! He wrotethat story.” Pointing at a nearbyshelf with a dozen copies ofMueller’s Extra Virginity, Steveadds, “That’s his new book.”

Sharing the shelves withMueller’s book are jars of olivesfrom a family farm in northernCalifornia and honey from theIsland’s Cottlestone Apiary justoutside Duncan. The store alsostocks Italian skincare productsand French jams and jellies, butmost of the floor space is givenover to bulk, stainless steelcontainers of fresh extra virginolive oil, aged balsamic vinegarand exotically infused olive oil.“We see ourselves as an educa-tion centre as much as a store

CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE

Olive the Senses | 9-1701 Douglas St. | 250-882-4210 | www.olivethesenses.com

Little Qualicum scallops with a caper puree, sweet potato butter and candied pancetta. Ça Va’s chef Fauna Martin



Stepping into the vast cavern that is, square foot wise, amodest space for a pizzeria, we are greeted by the warm andinviting aroma of wood fire ovens and the faint hints of toastingbread and oils. Steered into a semi-private space reserved forthe evening, we are greeted with the inviting sight of warmlypatina wood tables covered in shimmering wine glasses.Welcome to Vino e Spuntino at Pizzeria Prima Strada, literally"wine and a snack."

This monthly event at the pizzeria's Bridge Street locationoffers insight into the intricacies of wine from various regions.Each evening will be spent sipping vino and nibbling beautifullypaired noshes while learning about specific varietals of winein an informative, yet informal, wine education session. Thesesessions are meant to be relaxed and fun social gatherings to

educate and showcase wines of various price points. Each wine is given a dollar sign (one dollar signfor $15-20, two for $25 and three for $35 and up)—the most expensive wine featured on the night wewere there was $36. Expect three to five 2.5 oz. wine samples when you go.

Andrew Johnson, a level 3 Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) certified sommelier, took us throughthe specifics and answered any and all questions with enthusiasm and a sense of humour. No questionwas too silly and once the night got rolling, everyone was chatting and talking amongst themselves. Wedrank five varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma to Chile and ate small bites—a melt in yourmouth braised short rib on polenta cake; a tender as butter slice of beef Carpaccio; an interesting spicedcarrot and herb bruschetta; a meatball arancini with tomato sauce (risotto wrapped around a smallmeatball which is then breaded and fried); and finished off with a beautiful wine-poached pear withGorgonzola. Each bite was perfectly paired with its companion wine and everyone madly scribbled theirnotes while they sipped, so as to not forget which wine to buy later.

Tasting five varieties of the same wine, we figured the differences would be somewhat subtle, but wewould be proved quite wrong. The differences between these varietals are astounding and Andrew'ssometimes amusing descriptions helped us uncover the subtleties within. From "tight and muscular","eucalyptus, whimsical and playful" to "fluffy and soft", words were thrown around like a night ofcrossword puzzles. Tips were given about not rinsing your glass with water between wines (as the smallportion could easily be diluted) and that most wines bought today get "sad" with age, not better. Mostwines are designed to be consumed within 1-2 years of pressing, especially whites.

Wine and food enthusiasts, as well as any average Joe looking to learn more about this widespreadand popular, but confusing beverage, will love this evening of tasting. It's a great way for the generalpublic to increase their knowledge of wine and also of food and wine pairings.

Be warned that the event is not planned to replace a meal and pizza is not guaranteed. Vino e Spuntinois an ongoing event featuring a different major grape varietal every month. For more information, pleaseemail Andrew at: [email protected]. 2960 Bridge Street, Victoria, 250.590.4380 BY ELIZABETH NYLAND

Vino e SpuntinoA night of regional wine & food at PizzeriaPrima Strada

Elizabeth Nyland

and organize formal tastings as well as offering tasting samples to all our customers.” Emily tells me asshe pours Australian-grown Hojiblanca into a cobalt-blue tasting cup before demonstrating how toproperly sniff, slurp and savour the olive oil sample.

Next I sample a Chilean Arbequina as Emily explains that all their current stock of Australian andChilean oil was harvested in May 2012 and that the late-November pressing from Portugal, Spain, Italy,Tunisia and California will arrive in a few months. All their stock has a maximum one-year shelf life.

“Most health benefits are lost after the first year, and maybe more importantly, the olives degradequickly after picking. Our Australian growers begin pressing within an hour of picking. The pick to pressis critical,” Steve tells me.

I try the Chilean Frantoio, an olive variety that Steve’s Italian aunt also grows, and after the creamyartichoke-like initial taste, I get a blast of pepper at the back of my throat. “That’s the polyphenol countthat is critical to the oil’s antioxidant level. Frantoio’s is three times higher than Hojiblanca’s.” Emilylaughs as she handing me a glass of water.

I move on to tasting samples of traditional dark balsamic, black mission fig balsamic, red applebalsamic and espresso balsamic, wishing I could bring home bottles of all of these rich and flavourfulvinegars. In fact, Olive the Senses is so much fun I’m going to organize a tasting party with friends whoI know would love this intriguing new store. BY JOSEPH BLAKE

SCALE:SIZE: 4 3/8˝ X 4 3/4˝PRINTER:PRODUCED BY: TKREVISED BY:

PROOF: 1FOLDER: 13-0011_SSC_EAT_MAR_APR_2013FILE NAME: 13-0011_EAT_MAR_APRDATE: FEBRUARY 8, 2013

All materials used in the production of this assignment—including original artwork and computer-generatedartwork, formats and code—remain the property of Exhibit A: Design Group. All rights reserved.

Wine-poached pears with Gorgonzola cheese



Visit:www.tourismtofino.com

Feast. Sleep. Repeat.Returning May 1-31

1605 Store Street(next to Swans Brewpub)250-361-3310wildsaffronbistro.com

3 COURSE DINNER$29.95 plus taxes

When thinking of the typical Victoria, BC coffee house, you generally think of a large open space withlots of seating, baked goods, and even sandwiches. Shatterbox wants to flip that idea on its head. KalenHarris, the owner and barista at Shatterbox, wants people to embrace the European-style coffee bar. AEuropean coffee bar is much smaller and usually doesn’t have very much, if any, seating inside. Mostof the seating would be outside on a patio. People stand around the bar and sip their coffees whilechatting with each other and with the barista, who is usually charismatic and witty with some greatstories and conversation—it’s similar to the way one would go to a liquor bar and strike up a conversa-tion with the bar keep.

Kalen got his start in the food industry working as a bartender at The Brentwood Bay resort pub. Hespent many years there before moving to Hamburg, Germany. Hamburg was once, and still is to somedegree, the great coffee hub of Europe because of their large port. He got a job at the prestigious CaféKnuth, where he learned about the science and art of coffee. He was also able to make manyconnections with other coffee addicts and roasters while there. He spent most of his free time hangingout with a coffee roaster that lived just down the street from him. This roaster taught him what makes agood coffee bean and how to make a proper blend for the espresso machine.

After a few years of living and working in Hamburg, he moved back to Victoria, where he decidedto open his own coffee bar in the true European-style because he felt there was nowhere to get a trueEuro/Italian style coffee on Vancouver Island. He brought two gifts from Café Knuth with him when heleft Hamburg—a special engraved tamper that you can see at Shatterbox atop the grinder, and his apronwhich he wears when he is on bar.

It’s not hard to talk to Kalen, when you are only standing across the bar. He’s very energetic whenworking the espresso machine and he does it with a great big smile. Especially when you ask for acappuccino—his favorite drink. Kalen also likes to experiment with the specials he puts on every day. Oneday he had fresh ginger, lemon and honey tea, another day he served a “dark and stormy” which issteamed milk, espresso, and cayenne pepper hot chocolate.

Kalen’s knowledge of coffee goes beyond that of many baristas, as he knows much of the sciencebehind coffee. In Germany, everyone spoke of the science behind coffee—that the reason a cappuccinois slightly sweet without adding sugar is because the crèma gets carried in the steamed milk fat that hasgone into bubbles; that in a usual coffee the crèma disappears within a few minutes or goes bitter; andthat in a latte there is too much milk for the crèma to get carried and it just disappears.

Shatterbox uses a unique blend of beans for its espresso; it’s Kalen’s own blending techniques and isroasted by Drumroaster Coffee (in Cobble Hill). As Kalen says “the blender is the chef”. The beans usedare Robusta and Arabica, blended together to have a distinct, yet very Italian, flavour. Usually a Robustabean does not bode well for espresso, but Kalen has imported a very special version, that is grown inhigher altitudes than even the Arabica. At the grand opening of Shatterbox, recounts Kalen, apresentation on the beans was given by Carsen Øglend, the roaster for Drumroaster Coffee, who saidthat the Robusta bean that Kalen has sourced roasts as well, if not better, than many Arabica beans Ihave come across. Shatterbox serves Drumroaster house blend for coffees that are not put through theespresso machine (filter, AeroPress, and pour-over coffee). Kalen compares the way he blends his beansto the way wine is made. His blend is specific to making espresso, like a blended brandy and not like afilter coffee, which is like a single grape wine.

You can purchase Kalen’s own unique blend, as well as Drumroaster’s blends, in the cafe to enjoy athome. If you enjoy Italian flavour/style coffee at home, try out Shatterbox’s blend—it’s so fresh it mightchange your mind about how you thought Italian blends are suppose to taste.BY COLIN HYNES

Shatterbox Coffee950 Yates St., Victoria, | 778.432.2121 | shatterbox.ca

Kalen Harris

Colin Hynes

Newly updated and expanded for 2013

Winner of the 2011 Gourmand InternationalWine Books Awards for Canada

Finalist for the 2012 Taste Canada Food

Writing Awards

Island Wineries of British Columbia

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At local wineries, shops & fine bookstores(www.touchwoodeditions.com)


Union Street used to be nothing more than the dingy side street next to the Georgia Street Viaduct, home

to a Jimi Hendrix museum and not much else. These days, it’s become a brightly-lit strip of artsy retail

spaces, local, sustainable grocers and a few top-notch dining spots. Anchoring the street on one end is

The Union, a restaurant-bar from the same good folks who brought us Habit Lounge and The Cascade

Room.

Although the ambiance is that of a dark, slightly dingy speakeasy that’s been given a quick facelift,

the food is as colourful and varied as a farmer’s market at the height of summer—and it’s all locally or

sustainably sourced. The eclectic mix of South and East Asian dishes are held together by a solid

cocktail, wine and craft brew list, not to mention some stellar banga (“jar” in Filipino). The latter are

listed only as numbers, rather than by name. Banga number one was a refreshing mix of gin, lemongrass,

rambutan, ginger, Thai basil, lime and sugar. At $10 per jar, it might seem a little steep, until you factor

in that each is a double, in every sense of the word. Another winner was the number three, a deeper

blend of bourbon, mirin, calamansi, orange peel and ginger beer.

For designated drivers, or those on the wagon, the hooch-free options are almost better than the

boozey versions. The Typhoon Jimi ($5) is a breezy concoction of carbonated jasmine tea, honey

ginger syrup, kaffir lime and fresh ginger.

I started with the kalbi beef short ribs ($12) with piquant cabbage slaw. The bone-in slices of rib were

fork-tender, although they weren’t tested too much, as the fingers quickly took over. I sided it with some

housemade naan bread and raita for a full meal deal. Spice flows freely here, as with the crispy pork

belly bahn mi ($8) that comes with generous lashings of sriracha aioli and jalapenos, as well as daikon,

pickled carrot, cucumber and cilantro. My dessert, a coconut milk panna cotta with pineapple salsa, was

one of the best versions I’ve had in a goodly while. We’ll see if the chai chocolate pot I’ll have on my

next visit can beat it.

BY ANYA LEVYKH

vancouver

219 Union St. | 604.568.3230 | www.theunionvancouver.ca

The Union

In these carb-free, gluten-free, sugar-free times, Jackie Ellis has managed to get people excited about

bread and pastry again. This former designer-turned-pastry chef has taken her passion for home

baking, combined with her French pastry training, and created Beaucoup Bakery, an homage to

childhood treats and French classics.

For such a tiny, L-shaped space hidden on a side street off a side street, it can get awfully busy

awfully fast. With less than 12 seats to its name, most orders are take away, and snagging a table is more

of a feat than getting front-row seats to the Canucks. Judging by all the satisfied faces, however, no one

seems to mind. With some 49th Parallel dark roast in hand, people seem content to mill around,

sampling one sweet after another.

I’m a firm believer in “no dessert until you’ve eaten something healthy,” so I started with a plain

croissant. Croissants are, to my mind, the finest test of a baker’s skill. The complexity off butter to flour

ratios, beating to folding, makes for a unique masterpiece with every batch. Ellis’ creation is a subtle

testament to a mille-feuille, with a rolled crust in which you can count the tiny layers like the rings of a

tree. The crust gives way to a buttery softness that lacks grease but holds incredible texture. In a word,

delicious.

The chaussons aux pommes are another must-try. These simply apple pie pockets are held together with

more light pastry, and dusted with sugar to balance the still-tart apples.

As for the childhood desserts, my jaw dropped in anticipatory delight when I beheld the peanut

butter sandwich cookies, monstrous fist-sized rounds of nutty chew held together with a silky smooth and

perfectly salted peanut butter cream. It’s every child’s dream come to life, as my own offspring’s moans

of delight reminded me. Paired with the housemade salted hot chocolate, which was not too salty, not

too sweet, it could easily become a daily habit. Carb-shmarb.

BY ANYA LEVYKH

2150 Fir St. | 604.732.4222 | www.beaucoupbakery.com

Beaucoup Bakery


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Natural, Nutritious & LocalFour small-scale Okanagan Valley meat producers areproving that happy, stress-free animals create tasty,healthy meat

Feeding the wild boar at North Okanagan Game Meats

North O

kanagan Gam

e Meats

SPOIL YOUR SENSES.Open Year Round| 1.800.420.9463 | quailsgate.com

Natural. Nutritious and delicious. Preferably local. These are the qualities that agrowing number of Okanagan gourmets are seeking in meat and poultry, whether it’sin a chef-prepared dish or at home.These four Okanagan Valley producers treat their livestock and poultry as if they

were guests at a holistic health and relaxation spa. That is, of course, until they moveon, in a stress-free way, to greener pastures, so to speak. In the meantime, good tastereigns supreme.

North Okanagan Game Meats/Valley Wide MeatsFor 22 years, Richard Yntema’s operation has been supplying venison from deer, wildboar, lamb and chicken raised on his own property, as well as rabbit, veal and specialtypoultry like quail and pheasant sourced from local suppliers.“We raise our own animals as naturally as possible,” says Yntema. “The deer graze

in a field and the wild boar root around in a forest.”Besides the livestock’s pleasant lives, which make for tastier meat, there’s the low or

no-stress issue of transportation to the abattoir for processing. His Valley Wide Meatsabattoir is right on his property, an expensive investment to meet provincial meatprocessing licence standards. Yntema’s facility has been a blessing for local farmerswho would otherwise have to ship their livestock to distant butcheries at great cost tothem and great angst for the animals.Yntema’s prime protein is featured at esteemed Okanagan restaurants such as The

Vines Patio at Quails’ Gate Winery in West Kelowna, Ricardo’s in Lake Country, Theo’sin Penticton, La Bussola and RauDZ Regional Table in Kelowna and the NaramataHeritage Inn. North Okanagan Game Meats is also a learning destination for studentsof Okanagan College’s third-year culinary arts program. Local fans can order for pickup from Ytema’s farm by phone or e-mail. 40 Matthews Rd., Enderby, 250-838-7980, [email protected]

producer series: Get to Know Your meat producer

—by Dona Sturmanis



Sterling Springs Chicken/Silvernails AbattoirStress-free life, high-quality feed and no drugs produce healthy chickens and tasty,healthy bird meat. This is the firm conviction of Lisa Dueck, who runs Sterling Springswith the help of husband Hans and children Johanna and Jacob. The operation wentfrom large to small and reinvented itself.“We raised chickens for 20 years,” says Lisa. “Fifty to 75,000 every eight weeks. But

we wanted to work as a family and raise chickens sustainably.” The Duecks sold theircommercial operation and started all over again on a very small scale about a yearago. “People thought we were nuts,” she says.This meant a shop humbly heated with reclaimed wood but also a sophisticated

on-site processing plant to meet provincial guidelines—Silvernails Abattoir. Noupsetting, long-distance trips to the butcher for Sterling Springs chickens.The new incarnation produces only 350-500 chickens at a time. The precious

poultry is featured in dishes at notable valley restaurants such as The Grapevine atGray Monk Winery in Lake Country, Sunset Bistro at Summerhill Pyramid Winery inKelowna, RauDZ Regional Table and Manteo in Kelowna and Little Tex in Vernon. Itis also sold at Urban Fare in Kelowna and the farmer’s markets in both Vernon andKelowna.Orders for pickup or delivery can be made by phone or e-mail. Deliveries to Kamloops,

Armstrong, Vernon, Kelowna, and Salmon Arm are made on a regular basis. 4000 Silvernails Rd., Falkland, B.C., 250-309-2317, [email protected]

Okanagan’s Finest Angus BeefDrunken beef? Well, not exactly. Owners Bill and Darlene Freding raise wine-fed Angusbeef and “sober” beef, both of which are raised in a near-organic, no-pesticidesenvironment. The happy cattle, handpicked by Bill and then nurtured at the South-ern Plus Feedlot, eat a high-forage diet, are not given hormones or antibiotics and arehandled in a gentle manner. The result is beef that’s flavourful, tender, rosy in colourand has a long shelf life “People rave about how good the beef is,” says Bill, who has been raising cattle for

more than 40 years.The Fredings took over Sezmu Beef, which originated the idea of feeding wine to

the livestock. Cattle are fed a litre of wine a day during the 60-day finishing period andalso feed on high-quality forage. And, no, the cows don’t get drunk: Bill says it’s likea person downing a half glass of wine a day. At the end of the finishing period, thecattle are sent to local B.C. abattoirs, then dry-aged for a minimum of 21 days. Okanagan's Finest Angus Beef is available at top restaurants throughout the

Okanagan such as Terrafina at Hester Creek Winery in Oliver, The Patio at Lake BreezeWinery in Naramata, The Hotel Eldorado in Kelowna, and retail establishmentsthroughout BC such as L and D Meats in Kelowna, Murphy's Chop and Block inKamloops, and Organic World in Vancouver. Oliver, 250-859-3545, toll-free 855-498-3077, [email protected], okanagansfinestangusbeef.com

Hamblett Highland Turkey FarmThere’s always a better turkey: That’s the philosophy of Michael Hamblett. “I’mstepping away from common models and changing my operation,” he says. For years,Hamblett raised big meaty birds, but now he’s doing it a new way. “I’ve got a smallflock that lives outdoors and experiences the sun and the wind, eats better, gets nomedication and are processed locally. Their diet includes natural forage and alfalfa toprovide the protein and nutrition necessary for healthy growth. I had to research backto the 1930s to find this information.”The result is slower growing, “less aggressive,” healthier, more delectable turkeys. In

addition to standard variety birds, Hamblett is experimenting with heritage RidleyBronze—a western Canadian bronze turkey that produces proportionately more darkmeat than white. “They’re totally sustainable and lay very fertile eggs,” he says.Hamblett Highlands turkey and “very competitively priced” turkey parts are

available at the Kelowna Farmers’ Market (where the chefs also buy) or by contactingMichael Hamblett, who will deliver. Three hundred turkeys will be available forThanksgiving.Spallumcheen Valley, 250-546-6322, [email protected]


Pictured left: Freshly made churros and hot chocolate right: Chilaquiles with mole

I have a soft spot for quirky, and I have a soft spot for immigrant families in business

start-ups trying to share the food of their culture with their Victorian compatriots. The

soft spot blossoms into love if the food is fabulous. Good news: Tequila House and I are

now in a relationship, which was cemented by my enjoyment of a daily special of mole

poblano. Soft tortillas encase shredded chicken and completely absorb the rich, sweet

and smoky mole (pronounced mo-lay) sauce, housemade from a mixture of three dif-

ferent chiles—ancho, pasilla and cascabel—and a touch of chocolate. This special was the

highest price on the menu at $12.90 and included tortilla soup. Breakfast features ei-

ther omelettes or chilaquiles with eggs. Try the chorizo omelette; the chorizo is made in-

house and is perfectly seasoned with cumin, oregano, pepper, cloves and guajillo

(wa-hee-lo) chilis. Shockingly, the chefs were able to overcome my cynicism about soy

protein products, presenting a very tasty soy chorizo seasoned the same way. I know, I

know, soy chorizo—it sounds impossible, but they pull it off. Chilaquiles are a Mexican

breakfast dish that sounds dull in the reporting but is tasty in the actual consumption.

Tortilla chips are softened in a mix of tomatoes and tomatillos, then warmed and topped

with cheese and sour cream—mmm. The only downside was the beans, which were

bland (though remedied by two interesting housemade sauces—a mild, sweet chipotle

sauce and a morita chilis salsa). As well, churros, Mexican doughnuts, are offered be-

tween 10 and 11 a.m. and go well with a Mexican hot chocolate after a workout at

nearby Cedar Hill Rec Centre or a walk with the kids. Now here’s the quirky piece: this

restaurant is open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. only Monday to Saturday because it is sharing

space with Gosworth Fish and Chips, which opens at 3 p.m. There was no signage when

I was there, only a month after they’d opened. This may still be the case, so just go to

the door bearing a hand-written sign that says “Mexican Food.” There’s limited seat-

ing—we’re talking five bar stools and a bench when I was there (a couple of tables were

supposedly coming). Really, it’s a takeout place, but I thoroughly enjoyed my lunch in

this modest little nook, especially because I walked in to lively Spanish chatter as a group

of Mexican-Canadians finished their meals, and I felt, for just a moment, as if I was in

Mexico.


Secret CornersA world of eating in Victoria’s hidden nooks and crannies.

Tequila House, 3009 Gosworth Rd. at Cedar Hill Road, 250.886.0731

Elizabeth Nyland

eating well for less — by Elizabeth Smyth Monk



Owner Yasunobu Uchida holding a kabocha squash

Elizabeth Nyland

Uchida Eatery, A22-633 Courtney St. nearDouglas, 250-388-7383Tucked in kitty-corner from the Bug Zoo on Courtney, hidden from the street, is a

gem called Uchida Eatery. This used to be the home of Daidoco, and Uchida is offer-

ing food in the same spirit: clean, pure and mostly organic. Stunningly, the top price

for this organic food sourced from, among others, Uminami Farm in Metchosin, is

$10. This was for the special, stir-fried Metchosin pork with a flavourful ginger soy

sauce, organic green onions, organic cabbage and carrots served in a warm pottery

bowl of organic rice topped with a perfectly poached egg and garnished with grated

radish. Delicious. In this special, as in the rice bowls featuring salmon and smoked

tuna, Uchida Eatery offers the familiar exquisitely executed. What stimulated my

curiosity was how much was in fact unfamiliar; I appreciate that the owner Yasunobu

Uchida is educating us about everyday Japanese eating. New dishes for me were the

vegetable side dishes of “curry ni” (organic Japanese turnip, kabocha squash and

cabbage in a delicate, butterfly-wing-light curry broth) and “shira ae” (chrysanthe-

mum flower with chard, kale, enoki mushroom and carrot in a blended sauce of

sesame seed, tofu and miso). The intriguing flavours and uncommon ingredients of

these inexpensive vegetable side dishes ($3.50) make this a very special Japanese restau-

rant. My only concern is that I found the restaurant chilly; I wasn’t the only guest

wearing her overcoat over her shoulders. That is a fixable. I was very happily warmed

by a cup of the carefully chosen and brewed green tea called Hojicha, from the Uji

region, which as the information sheet pointed out, had a light and nutty flavour,

chosen to be an unobtrusive complement to traditional cuisine.

TOP FLOOR - CHATEAU VICTORIA HOTEL - 740 BURDETT AVECALL US AT 250.382.9258 OR VISIT WWW.VISTA18.COM

RES TAURANT - MARTINI & WINE BAR

Reservations Recommended

Our chefs are working on bringing you the best of Vancouver Island's local food!



Chicken Biryani

The Corner Café, 743 Aldebury St. at Shearwater,250-590-7997

You’ve delved into Oaklands to find Tequila House. You’ve gone down the alley by

the Bug Zoo to find Uchida Eatery. The next stop in this Amazing Race is the bulk

shopper heart of Esquimalt. Kitty-corner from the Wholesale Club on Viewfield, the

poor man’s Costco, is an unprepossessing-looking establishment called The Corner

Café. The signage, touting a hamburger and Coke, would be a turn-off to the average

EAT reader. Yet, my intrepid traveller, it is worth peeking in because, despite outward

appearances, this is an Indian restaurant. Under the new ownership of Anjum and

Sabbir, the diner menu has been supplemented with much more exciting words than

hamburger. Pakora. Biryani. Butter chicken. Fish masala. Happy words like that. The

pakoras are wholesome, filling and tasty, with the patty of potatoes, peas and cauli-

flower enhanced by an infusion of cumin seeds and garam masala. I could smell the

fragrance of the coriander in my chicken biryani even before the server put it on the

table. This dish was a tumult of colour. Three colours of rice—orange, yellow and

white—were mixed with tomato and chunks of chicken and flavoured with the

expected curry but also the surprise of cinnamon and cloves. The fish masala was in

a rich, grainy sauce with a hint of spice and tartness, and, in contrast, the butter

chicken offered sweetness and cream. The only item on the menu more than $10 is a

pound of chicken pakoras for takeout, which seems more than reasonable, and, in

fact, the vegetable pakoras are only $6 a pound. I will be ordering those next time I

have a party (they cater). The atmosphere is that of a café in an industrial area—pretty

plain—but sparklingly clean.

Elizabeth Nyland

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,

yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

ON THIS FARM THERE ARE SOME WINE CHICKS...

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.vqawineshop.ca

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhoopp"Fifteen years and going STRONG!"

Established 1998

Vegetarian Pakoras


21

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The whole beast

- -


DISH OF THE YEAR: RELISH FOOD & COFFEE


Crispy smokedchicken withroasted cauliflower,rice, pickles andSouth East Asianvinaigrette

EXCEPTIONALEATS! AwardsReaders weigh in with their food and drink choices. Where do we eat, shopand

drink?

4th Annual Readers Choice

Rebecca Wellm

an

Congratulations to our big prize winner: Carol Biehl. Carol has won the draw for a twonight deluxe stay and 3-course gourmet dinner with a bottle of wine at the MarriottVictoria Inner Harbour (www.marriottvictoria.com)


DISH OF THE YEAR: RELISH FOOD & COFFEE


Restaurant of the YearThis restaurant always delivers-in service,selection, atmosphere, and execution.�It'sthe best restaurant in the city-in everyway, every time.Brasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA)Hawksworth (VANCOUVER)RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

Restaurant Cooking LocalBest Restaurant Cooking Local: Local =Fresh + Delicious. Who does barn-to-tablebest and supports our local farms? Whatrestaurant is it? Camille’s (VICTORIA)Bishop’s (VANCOUVER)Ricardos Mediterranean Kitchen (OKANAGAN)

Best Dish of the YearYou really must try the _____at _____! �What dish was so fantastic thatyou will remember it forever-or atleast until next year?Crispy smoked chicken with roastedcauliflower, rice, pickles and South EastAsian vinaigrette - Relish Food & Coffee(VICTORIA)Qualicum Bay Scallops with caramelizedbelgian endives, wild rice griddle cake,candied ginger and citrus sauce - Blue Water Cafe (VANCOUVER)Bengali Fish with tangy kasundi mustardsauce with raw mango, chilli, onion andcoconut milk - Poppadoms (OKANAGAN)

Best Place for LunchLunch as a Delicious Event:�Lunch is notonly about re-energizing you at midday; ithas really come into its own as a diningout experience.Relish(VICTORIA)Meat & Bread (VANCOUVER)Walla Artisan Bakery & Cafe (OKANAGAN)

Dish Under $10Best Place to Spend Your Last $10: You'rehungry. You have a ten-dollar bill in yourpocket. Where do you go to eat? Hernande'z Cocina (VICTORIA)Go Fish (VANCOUVER)Okanagan Street Food (OKANAGAN)

Remotest with the MostestLet's head out of the city. I know thisamazing little place in the middle ofnowhere... Name a great restaurant not ina city that's worth a special trip (keep itclose to home, though, no planes). Amusé on the Vineyard (VICTORIA)Miradoro Restaurant at Tinhorn CreekVineyards (VANCOUVER)Hillside Winery & Bistro (OKANAGAN)

Place For Appys & CocktailsIt's been a long day; fancy an appy and adrink? Or three? Best after-work or late-night place to go for a bite and a drink.Name your favourite establishment. Veneto Tapa Lounge (VICTORIA)Chambar (VANCOUVER)Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN)

Neighbourhood GemEveryone's neighborhood should haveone: warm and friendly atmosphere,decent food and drinks, and wallet-friendly prices. Which neighbourhoodrestaurant, bistro, pub, or café is your "go-to" for a "walking-to" date night? Name theplace and the neighbourhood. Stage Wine Bar - Fernwood (VICTORIA)The Parker - Strathcona (VANCOUVER)Waterfront Restaurant & Wine Bar -Cultural District Kelowna (OKANAGAN)

Guilty PleasureIs it a sticky cinnamon bun, a dark pain auchocolat, or a silken crème brûlée? Wheredo you go to soothe the sweet cravingsthat call? Please name the item and therestaurant/bakery/café/shop. Uchida eatery/shokudo (VICTORIA)Musette Café (VANCOUVER)Saint Germain Cafe Gallery (OKANAGAN)

Cat-Out-of-the-BagThere's this little place you go to that noone seems to know about but you-and youlove it. Name your undiscovered treasure?Uchida eatery/shokudo (VICTORIA)Musette Café (VANCOUVER)Saint Germain Cafe Gallery (OKANAGAN)

Great Pizza PieThe thin-crusted, wood-fired pizza parlourinvasion continues and we love it. Wheredo you go to get your slice of heaven? Pizzeria Prima Strada (VICTORIA)Nicli Antica Pizzeria (VANCOUVER)Bordello's Italian Pizzeria(OKANAGAN)

Best Front of House CrewWe've all been there. Left at the frontwithout being greeted. Ignored when wewant that glass of wine when the main

course comes. Which restaurant give youthe best service and cheers you up nomatter how in the weeds the kitchen is?Brasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA)TIE: Hawksworth / Bishop’s (VANCOUVER)Ricardo's Mediterranean Kitchen (OKANAGAN)

Place For Heathy EatingDelicious and Nutritious... Feed me! Ameal out can be both delicious-andhealthy.Tell us where you go when youwant to treat both your palate and yourbody? Rebar Modern Food (VICTORIA)The Acorn (VANCOUVER)Wild Scallion (OKANAGAN)

Best Street Food The street food scene continues to heatup.Whose stall, cart, pot or truck is worthbraving the elements to chow down?Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA)Tacofino (VANCOUVER)Jeffer’s Fryzz (OKANAGAN)

Place to Feed a KidPraise be to the restaurants and cafés thatknow how to cater to families with kids.Who makes you welcome when you havechildren in tow? Pizzeria Prima Strada (VICTORIA)Little Nest (VANCOUVER)Wild Apple Restaurant (OKANAGAN)

Best Place to Buy Local FoodIt could be a farm stand, outdoor marketor a store. Where do you go to buy yourlocal, fresh and in-season food? The Root Cellar (VICTORIA)Trout Lake Farmers Market (VANCOUVER)Kelowna & Penticton Farmers Market(OKANAGAN)

Best Take-OutToday's Takeout (not your mom's take-away): It's the afternoon and you're think-ing about dinner-but you don't feel likecooking tonight. What do you grab on theway home? Think restaurants, delis andfood shops -who's got the best gourmet togo?

The Noodle Box (VICTORIA)Rangoli (VANCOUVER)The Bench Artisan Food Market (OKANAGAN)

Best Place to Shop for HealthyFoodI'm Health Conscious: They say that youare what you eat. Where do you shop forfood that is healthy or based on dietaryrestrictions? Lifestyle Market (VICTORIA)Whole Foods (VANCOUVER)Nature’s Fare Markets (OKANAGAN)

Favourite (Locally Owned) KitchenStore Need a chef's knife, tablecloth, pot, candles or

coffee grinder? And you're not a fan of big-box

shopping. Where do you go to buy it?Cook Culture (VICTORIA)Gourmet Warehouse (VANCOUVER)Chef's Edge (OKANAGAN)

Best Place to Buy CheeseThe Cheesier the Better: Best selectionand service of artisanal andfarmstead cheese. Where do you go?Tie: Hilary’s/ Ottavio(VICTORIA)Les Amis du Fromage (VANCOUVER)Valoroso Foods (OKANAGAN)

Best Local Food or IngredientYou've got friends and family visiting, andyou take pride in BC's food diversity. Okay,maybe you've been known to brag aboutthe largess of this province. What localfood, product or ingredient are you sure tointroduce them to? Vancouver Island Salt | Spot Prawns(VICTORIA)Kurobuta Pork | Sockeye Salmon (VANCOUVER)Okanagan Wine (OKANAGAN)

Place to Buy MeatMeat your Maker: Many shops, delis andrestaurants are offering house made meats- charcuterie, cold cuts, salami andsausages. Where do you go to fill yoursandwich? The Whole Beast (VICTORIA)Oyama Sausage (VANCOUVER)Mediterranean Market(OKANAGAN)

LetsEat In

LetsEat Out

CONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE


Best Food or Drink Experienceof the YearGilded Gatherings: Which food or drinkevent, festival or seminar most excited youthis year?Culinaire (VICTORIA)Feast of Fields (VANCOUVER)Feast of Fields (OKANAGAN)

Best People SkillsDid you have an amazing experience at afood shop, store or market this year thatmade you feel special? Maybe it made youwant to tell your friends? Tell us your storyand the store. Charelli's Cheese Shop and Delicatessen(VICTORIA)Barbara-Jo's Books To Cooks (VANCOUVER)Urban Fare (OKANAGAN)

I Eat, Therefore I Am SocialI Eat, therefore I Pinterest, Tumblr and In-stagram and Tweet: Which local foodwriter, blog, or photog would you follow tothe ends of the earth?EATmagazine.ca (VICTORIA)FollowMeFoodie.com (VANCOUVER)BettyDish.ca (OKANAGAN)

Cooking Class or School Cook Like A Pro: Knife skills 101? Advancedpasta making? Pig butchery? What cookingclass really sparked your culinary edifica-tion? Please tell us which class and whereyou took it. Spices of North Africa (The London Chef)(VICTORIA)Ocean Fling: The Ultimate Seafood Class(The Dirty Apron (VANCOUVER)Hester Creek Estate Winery CookingClasses (OKANAGAN)

The Next Big Thing Food fashions come and go. Remembertruffle oil on everything? Foam sauces?

Best Specialty Food StoreYou're having a dinner party and you'recooking something special (maybe you'venever made it before!) Where do you go toget that "something" that makes the dishspecial?Ottavio (VICTORIA)Whole Foods (VANCOUVER)Urban Fare (OKANAGAN)

Best Beer StoreBeer Boom IPA, wit, stout, Belgian, porter...Which store has the best craft-beer selec-tion in town?Cook St Village Liquor (VICTORIA)Legacy Liquor Store (VANCOUVER)Cannery Brewing Company (OKANAGAN)

Best Bar(This) Bar (is) Fly: You belly up to yourfavourite bar. Slap your credit card downand call out - "Fix me a..." What cocktailsends you into a swoon and where areyou?

Barrel-aged Negroni at Clive’s (VICTORIA)French 75 at The Pourhouse(VANCOUVER)Amante Picante at RauDZ Regional Table(OKANAGAN)

Best Wine StoreYou Say Champagne, I say Cremant: Youwant an excellent selection, a range ofprices, and a personable, knowledgeablestaff. Best place to drink or buy wine.What's your recommendation? Everything Wine (VICTORIA)Marquis Wine Cellars ((VANCOUVER)Metro Liquor (OKANAGAN)

Best Local WineryYou Brought Wine: Impress your out-of-town host with a bottle from a local win-ery. What would you bring? Averill Creek Vineyard (VICTORIA)Laughing Stock Vineyards (VANCOUVER)8th Generation Vineyard (OKANAGAN)

Best MocktailThis ain't no Shirley Temple: Cleanse, diet,abstinence? Don't mock this no-alcoholcocktail. Phew, fix me a drink! Name yourfavourite mocktail and the bar or restau-rant where you get it.Spinnaker’s Gastropub (Sparkling GingerO De Vie) Ginger steeped in Spinnaker’sLifecycles apple cider vinegar, topped withO De Vie sparkling mineral water &

sweetened (VICTORIA)Hawksworth (Kalamansi Fizz) Pomegran-ate juice, kalamansi, honey, ginger beer(VANCOUVER)Poppadoms (Mango Lassi) Homemadeyougurt drink with mango purée(OKANAGAN)

Best Local BeverageLocal Beverage of the Year: This local bev-erage was, in a word, remarkable. Be itwine, beer, cider, spirits, soda, tea, coffeeyou name it. What really impressed youthis year? Tell us what it was and whichcompany made it. Victoria Gin (VICTORIA)Schramm Organic Potato Vodka (VANCOUVER)Okanagan Spirits (OKANAGAN)

Best Place For CoffeeHigher Grounds: We want to knowwhere do you get your bean-juice fix?Name your favourite coffee shop. Discovery Coffee (VICTORIA)49th Parallel (VANCOUVER)Tie: Bean Scene / Good Omens(OKANAGAN)

Beer of the YearThis is My Beer of the Year: Impress yourout-of-town host with a bottle of localbrewski. Name the local brew that has allthe beer nerds in a froth?


DriftwoodBrewery

LetsDrink


LetsGiveCredit

Rebecca Wellm

an

BEER OF THE YEAR

The Driftwood team from left to right:Tim Fukushima, Justine Darnley, Kevin Hearsum, Stefan Johnston,Jason Meyer, Marika Veldink, Gary Lindsay, Nolan Francis.

Driftwood Fat Tug IPA(VICTORIA)R&B Brewing Co. Sun God Wheat Ale (VANCOUVER)Cannery Brewing Naramata Nut Brown Ale(OKANAGAN)



Give recognition to the person who hasspent their lifetime committed toexemplary, sincere, and passionate culinaryexcellence. The ripple effect of this personcannot be easily measured. (Note: DavidMincey, Greg Hays, Peter Zambri, John Bishopand Bernard Casavant are past winners )

Rebecca Wellm

an

SeanBrennan

Tuesday morning, and it’s the start of

another reliably busy five-day cycle at

Brasserie L’école. Clad in jeans and a

black turtleneck, co-owner and chef

Sean Brennan is the epitome of Zen

relaxation after a few days off roaming

around town with his wife and cook-

ing a Mexican meal for friends. He’s

about to settle on his fresh sheet—

chard, leeks and winter greens are

seasonal variables—while knowing all

will be well provided he’s covered the

basics that have kept this red-walled

temple to the bistro arts jumping for

11 years and counting: steak (fully 40

percent of sales), frites, onion soup and

a legendary endive salad in particular.

His suppliers will begin arriving in the

afternoon, but for now he’s got time

for a chat in a window seat, outside

which hordes of loyalists have

Top BrassChef-owner Sean Brennanof Victoria’s belovedbrasserie is smiling. By Jeff Bateman


Sean Brennan(Brasserie L’Ecole) (VICTORIA)

Bruno Marti(La Belle Auberge Restaurant (VANCOUVER)

Harry McWatters(McWatters Collection) (OKANAGAN)

Lifetime Ach i e ve-ment Award

Cosmopolitans? Say hello to the next bigthing. What is it? Pickled everything (VICTORIA)Nose to tail, farm to table (VANCOUVER)Local and organical (OKANAGAN)

Worst Trend of 2012Remember cake pops? Celebritychef restaurant outposts where the chefisn't present? Haute hot dogs? Tall food?Help us weed out the most awful trend dujour! What is it?Bacon in everything (VICTORIA)Large bowl plates (cutlery slides into thefood) (VANCOUVER)Deconstructed dishes (OKANAGAN)

Best Sustainable PracticesA Year of Living Sustainably: What business,association or non-profit best promotes asustainable food system?Lifecycles (VICTORIA)Ocean Wise (VANCOUVER)Harker's Organics(OKANAGAN)

Best New Restaurant, Shop, orCafé� Best new addition to the food and drink scene

in 2012? The Clay Pigeon (VICTORIA)Wildebeest (VANCOUVER)True Grain Bread (OKANAGAN)



SPECIAL EAT PROMOTION

patiently queued since the restaurant

switched from reservations to open seating

in 2009.

Born in Rossland and an avid skier,

Brennan was 14 when the family moved to

West Van after his dad became the district’s

chief building inspector. Whistler didn’t cut

it compared to the Kootenays, so his passion

shifted to surfing and cooking—which he’d

been keen about since first cracking The

Winnie the Pooh Cookbook as a child. In lieu

of comic books, he devoured Larousse

Gastronomique. The payoff for his surf bud-

dies during VW van roadtrips to the

Washington and Oregon coasts were deluxe

seafood cookouts rather than franks-and-

beans.

Fresh from high school, Brennan appren-

ticed under a Swiss-German chef at North

Van’s Lonsdale Quay Hotel before arriving

on the island in 1994 as Karen Barnaby’s

sous-chef at Harvest Moon on Wharf Street.

The easy access to the big waves at Jordan

River and Sombrio was key in his decision to

put down roots in Victoria. Within three

years, he was a founding partner at Café

Brio, blazing trails for all things fresh and

local. Fast-forward to 2001. Just as he was

settling into a lively routine at the popular

Fort Street restaurant, a friend purchased a

certain Chinatown heritage building and

offered Brennan and his friend and

sommelier Marc Morrison a chance to chart

their own course in the former Met Bistro.

Early raves (i.e., a prime spot on enRoute’s

first-ever best-new-restaurant list) cushioned

the growing pains. Soon enough a two-

month advance reservation was needed on

weekends. (The shift to first-come, first-

served eliminated the no-shows and

increased business by 30 percent.)

Chef is quick to praise Morrison and a

backroom crew led by sous-chef Greg Ward.

“It’s a super-solid team—quiet, mature,

reliable. That’s essential. Consistency is

number one for us in cooking and service.”

A balanced lifestyle counts too, and after

losing himself in his work over the past

decade, Brennan’s getting back to the out-

doors after purchasing a new wetsuit and

taking up skiing again. Factor in European

travels with plenty of stops in his favourite

locales—urban and village brasseries—and

he has reason to smile. “Running this bistro

is a dream,” he says. “The time has flown

and I can’t imagine a better way to spend a

quarter of my life.”

Nineteen years ago,brothers Tim and JonCash, having just

finished hiking the West CoastTrail, searched in vain forsomewhere to have a well-deserved meal in nearby PortRenfrew, Canada’s “Tall TreeCapital.” “Nothing was openand there was nowhere to eat,so we had to drive back toVictoria,” Jon recalls. “That’swhen we decided to create adestination lodge in one of theworld’s most beautiful loca-tions.” Six years later, theybought 160 acres bordering theJuan de Fuca Marine Trail nearPort Renfrew, and openedSoule Creek Lodge in 2001.Soule Creek Lodge, named

one of Canada’s most unusualhotels by where.ca, offersunique accommodations andgourmet meals (for overnight

guests only). Seclusion and spectacular natural beauty, including panoramic views of the Olympic Peninsula, the Strait of Juan deFuca and the San Juan Inlet, await visitors atop the San Juan Ridge. The west-coast-style cedar lodge, the Tanglewood cabin andthree well-appointed yurts (Yurt of the Setting Sun, Pandora’s Yurt and the Tatoosh Yurt with private decks and views of the starsthrough their sky domes) can accommodate a maximum of 22 people. Tim and Jon Cash, professional chefs and hands-on entrepreneurs, serve guests a full breakfast and create a new, three-course

dinner each day. “One of our signature dishes is a West Coast bouillabaisse,” Jon explains. “We prepare classic bouillabaisse withseasonal fish, roasted shrimp shells and clam broth to give it body, puree it and run it through a chinois to make a sauce. We addhalibut, seared tuna, seared salmon and side-striped shrimp with their roe, then finish it with coconut milk and Pernod.”“Our approach is thoughtful, simple preparations, mingling Italian, French and West Coast cuisines,” Jon adds. “With the best

fresh ingredients, the more you leave them alone the better.” The area’s attractions are as enticing as the lodge. “This is pristine, raw, wild nature a scenic two-hour drive from Victoria on

Highway 14, or two hours from Nanaimo along the Pacific Rim Circle route,” Jon explains. A map he created with the AncientForest Alliance shows the location of nearby old-growth forests, the world’s largest Douglas fir and Canada’s largest spruce. AvatarGrove (20 minutes from the lodge), home to immense red cedars with huge gnarly burls, is reminiscent of Pandora, the fictionalplanet in the 2009 film Avatar.Nearby Botanical Beach has dozens of fascinating tide pools, and grey whales are often sighted from the shore. Hike around

beautiful Fairy Lake (15 minutes from Port Renfrew), swim in Lizard Lake and relax in the sand and surf at Pacheedaht Beach onthe edge of the West Coast Trail. Soule Creek Lodge is a heavenly haven for those who want to hike, swim, savour gourmet cuisine and enjoy remarkable

natural surroundings. “The area hasn’t been overrun,” Jon reveals. “You don’t have to share it with hordes of people. It’s the roadless travelled.” The lodge’s proximity to Victoria and Nanaimo and its secluded, tranquil atmosphere make it one of VancouverIsland’s most desirable destinations.

Soule Creek Lodge is open March 15 to October at 6215 Powder Main Rd., Port Renfrew, B.C.

For reservations, call 1-866-277-6853 or 1-250-647-0009.

SouleCreekLodge.com; [email protected] ancientforestalliance.org and ancientforestguide.com for more information.

Soule Creek Lodge Guests find seclusion, serenity and sophistication on the edge of a pristine wilderness.—by Sylvia Weinstock

Clockwise from top left: Soule Creek Lodge, Port Renfrew Grilled Sockeye with Vanilla CitrusBeurre Blanc, atop a bed of Coconut and Orange Basmati Rice, the interior of the lodge,surrounded by beauty.

SEAN BRENNAN cont’d



BC Bites Beverages

royalbcmuseum.bc.ca #bcbevs

Victoria’s Sweet Secret

Uncorked:

7 – 9 pm, Clifford Carl Hall

food matters — by Julie Pegg

Worth Its SaltOLD GENTS sporting tatty caps and frayed jackets of once-fine tweed gather on thepavement in front of International Fish Market in Hamilton, Ontario. Coffee andcigarettes permanently in hand, these guys sip and puff and chat loudly, often over eachother mostly in Portuguese. I hear a good smattering of Italian too. The shopping bagsanchored off their arms bulge with potatoes, sausage, peppers and dried fish.The fish is heavily salted cod or, in Portuguese, bacalhau, a staple of Portugal ever since

that country’s fishermen began hauling cod from Newfoundland’s Grand Banks morethan 500 years ago.Stepping past this merry band, I enter the musty plank-floored shop. Past jars of spicy

condiments and tins of tomatoes, I spot a whack of preserved cod piled in an old meatcase with the windows popped out. There are large and small cod—some bone-in, skinon; some de-boned, skin off. Some are creamy white; others are slightly yellow orgrey-hued. Prices range from four to eight dollars a pound. Alas, I lack the language toask which fish are best or used for what. (I will read later in Lidia’s Italy [Knopf, 2007]that thicker fish are less salty.) Beside the case, wood crates with still more fish arestamped “Norway,” “Nova Scotia” or simply “Canada.” The shopkeeper approaches,points to the grey-hued fillets from Nova Scotia. They are “good price and very good.”Shrugging, he points to a pair of broken tongs. I take the plunge and come away with acouple of pounds of cod, a few links of chourico, a sausage very like Spanish chorizo, anda few waxy potatoes. I too have a bag dangling from my arm now and grab an espressofrom the coffee shop next door. Back in the kitchen, I begin to divest the cod of its salt coat, a two-day process of

bathing the fish in a glass (never metal) dish filled with ice water. The water must bechanged regularly to remove most of the salt. The desalinated cod is pearl-white, firmfleshed, keeps its shape in a slow simmer of water or milk, yet flakes easily with thenudge of a fork.My initial experiment many years ago with salt cod was ghastly. I didn’t know the

fish needed desalting and I also boiled it to a horrible rubbery consistency. Following

more trial and error, a pal and I finally riffed on a delicious, garlicky potato and olive oilpuree called skordalia. Blending in flakes of desalted, gently poached bacalhau, wehadn’t the foggiest notion that our velvety Portuguese/Greek spread was a reasonablefacsimile of brandade de morue, a dish common in the south of France. But it sure wentwell on our homemade crispy pitas. This time I follow Elizabeth David’s recipe (French Provincial Cooking, Michael Joseph,

1960) for authentic creamy brandade. I add the required milk but mash the potato andfish mixture (instead of pureeing). The chunky mélange serves as a bed for David’s oeufsBenedictine. I place a poached egg lovingly on the brandade, but swap the saucehollandaise for chopped chives and add a few slices of fried chourico. This makes onefine brunch. Other Elizabeth David salt cod recipes feature the fish with morue red winesauce; baked with shallots, garlic, parsley, onions and lemons; and lightly flour-dusted,fried then simmered in tomato sauce.Not long after my successful brandade experience, I wander into Sea King Fish in

Toronto’s Kensington Market. The friendly Portuguese fishmonger tells me the customof wind- and sun-drying cod before salting has gone in favour of indoor heat drying.(Unsalted dried fish is known as stockfish.) Soon I’m snacking on Portuguese salt cod andpotato dumplings—a buck a pop—from the Market Bakery. I also start chatting withMaria, a Portuguese-Irish woman who quickly recites her mother’s “lasagna” recipe— saltcod layered with onion, chourico and, of course, potatoes. I seem, suddenly, to havequite the salt-cod repertoire. Back in Vancouver, I miss Ontario’s Portuguese market vibe. Fortunately, I can buy

good quality bacalhau from our better Italian markets. So I’m off to ferret out a saltyfillet for Maria’s “lasagna” and Lidia’s creamy baked Baccala alla Trevigiana—for spoon-ing over crispy polenta. If I’m lucky, I’ll also stumble on a bit of sidewalk entertainmentequal to the likes of Hamilton’s. For Maria’s Portuguese lasagna, check out www.eatmagazine.ca.

Salt cod, a Portuguese staple, finds its way into some delicious fusion recipes.



Gluten is a mixture of proteins present in cereal grains and iswhat gives dough its elasticity. And not surprisingly, its name isthe Latin word for “glue.” Sounds harmless enough, perhaps, but

for increasing numbers of people, gluten can be downright dangerous. Researchconducted at the Mayo Clinic suggests that celiac disease (an autoimmune response togluten that damages the small intestine and causes gastrointestinal symptoms andnutritional deficiencies) is on the rise. Today, about one percent of Americans has celiacdisease, making it four times more common than it was 50 years ago. And althoughCanadian statistics aren’t readily available, it’s estimated that 1 in 133 Canadians areaffected by this serious disease.The food industry, local bakeries and niche suppliers have all responded to the

challenge by creating products with such gluten-free grains as millet, rice, buckwheat,teff and quinoa, opening up a whole new range of eating—and not just for those withceliac disease.According to market research firm Mintel, sales of foods labelled “gluten-free” will

surpass $7 billion in the U.S. this year. (A similar trend is under way in Canada, althoughprecise national figures are not available.) That staggering figure doesn’t surprise AshleyMcLeod, manager of Lifestyle Market’s Cook Street store. “We’ve certainly witnessed asharp increase in the demand for gluten-free products,” she says. “In the past year alone,sales in this category have doubled.” What’s behind this en masse rush to avoid gluten—found most commonly in wheat, barley and rye? Let’s take a closer look. There is definitely scientific evidence to suggest that more people than ever before are

getting sick from consuming gluten. Scientists are not sure what is behind this increase,but some have hypothesized it is linked to our increasingly “wheat-centric diet” Theyclaim we are overexposed to wheat in the form of wheat-derived starches, sweeteners,binders and fillers found in processed foods. Others point the finger at the “cross-breeding” of modern wheat, which has made the grain heartier, richer in gluten, andunrecognizable from the ancient wheat our ancestors ate.Despite this irrefutable increase in celiac disease, it’s important to note that the

disorder still affects only a very small percentage of the population. So why are gluten-free products flying off grocery store shelves?

Health experts now believe that another group of people suffer from a more benignproblem with gluten called “non-celiac-gluten-sensitivity.” This condition causes nodamage to the intestinal tract but can be associated with gastrointestinal symptoms andfatigue. According to Dr. Alessio Fasano, a researcher at the University of Maryland, anda leading expert on gluten intolerance, non-celiac-gluten-sensitivity affects up to sixpercent of the North American population.While these numbers are significant, they still don’t explain the sudden, widespread

popularity of gluten-free fare. McLeod notes, “At least 50 percent of our gluten-free customers are trying gluten-free

living to enhance their overall health.” Clearly, those afflicted with celiac disease or non-celiac-gluten-sensitivity need to avoid

gluten to improve their health. What about the people who aren’t afflicted with celiacdisease or non-celiac-gluten-sensitivity —should they embrace their wheat-centric dietagain? No, they should embrace a diet of varied grains. They need to incorporate small

amounts of healthy gluten into their diets by eating such whole grains as spelt, rye,barley, kamut and ancient forms of wheat like farro and freekeh. There are also manynutrient-dense, gluten-free grains, like amaranth, quinoa, millet, rice, sorghum and teff,that we should all be eating—whether we’re gluten intolerant or not. These easy-to-digest carbohydrates provide the fuel our bodies need to keep us energized throughoutthe day. Varying your carbohydrates from day to day will maximize your phytonutrientintake and ultimately reduce your risk of overexposure to wheat. Gluten-free foods are one way to ensure a varied carbohydrate diet for healthy people.

For those who want, or medically need, a totally gluten-free diet, they are the only wayto go. Whether people are celiac or gluten intolerant, the media attention brought tobear by these medical conditions has opened up a new market for delicious grains mostpeople had never heard of or used, and has introduced us all to a way to vary ourcarbohydrates.

For more information on celiac disease and gluten sensitivity, visit: www.celiac.ca. Andvisit these great gluten-free blogs: glutenfreegirl.com, elanaspantry.com andnourishingmeals.com.

Gluten-Free LivingMore and more Canadians are eliminating gluten from their diets. EAT investigates why. By Pam Durkin, RNC

2 small thin-skinned oranges, approx.375g total weight (or 1 large)

6 eggs

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

200 g ground almonds (I use 1-2/3cups)

250 g caster sugar (I use 1-1/4 cups)and instead of caster, I just finelygrind regular sugar

50 g cocoa (about 3/8 cups)

Orange peel, for decoration or justsprinkle a little icing sugar on top andserve with whipped cream

*Omission Pale Ale is a hop-forward American Pale Ale, brewed to showcase the cascade hop profile. Amber in color, OmissionPale Ale’s floral aroma is complimented by caramel malt body, making for a delicious gluten-free craft beer. www.omissionbeer.com

GLUTEN-FREE RESOURCE GUIDESanté Gluten Free Café santeglutenfreecafe.comThe Noodle Box thenoodlebox.netHoly Crap Cereal holycrap.caComensoli Foods comensolifoods.comRocket Foods rocket-foods.comGluten Null glutenull.comPanne Rizo Bakery pannerizo.comOrganika organika.comThrifty Foods thriftyfoods.comLifestyle Markets lifestylemarkets.comOrigins Bakery originbakery.comVillage Butcher (gluten-free sausages)Slater’s Meat (gluten-free sausages)

Gluten-Free Orange Chocolate Cake Serves: 12

Put the whole orange or oranges in a pan with some cold water, bring to the boil andcook for 2 hours or until soft. Drain, and when cool, cut the oranges in half andremove any big pips. Then pulp everything - pith, peel and all - in a food processor. Preheat the oven to gas mark 4/180°C Butter and line a 20cm springform tin. Add

the eggs, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, almonds, sugar and cocoa to theorange in the food processor. Run the motor until you have a cohesive cake mixture,but slightly knobbly with the flecks of puréed orange. Pour and scrape into the caketin and bake for an hour, by which time a cake tester should come out pretty wellclean. Check after 45 minutes because you may have to cover with foil to preventthe cake burning before it is cooked through, or indeed it may need a little less thanan hour; it all depends on your oven. Leave the cake to get cool in the tin, on a cooling rack. When the cake is cold you

can take it out of the tin. Decorate with strips of orange peel or coarsely grated zestif you so wish, but it is darkly beautiful in its plain, unadorned state.(Courtesy Nigella Lawson)



celiac-friendly

gluten free

vegan

unbelievably healthy

/holycrapcereal/holycrapcereal


vegan

eegluten fr

celiac-friendly


/holycrapcereal/holycrapcereal

Gluten-Free LivingMore and more Canadians are eliminating gluten from their diets. EAT investigates why. By Pam Durkin, RNC


SpringChickenSpring Chicken

30

local kitchen


Blonde on Blonde SpringChickenSpring Chicken


Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography byMICHAEL TOURIGNY

Art Direction by GARY HYNES

Sometimes we just want blond food. That’s blond, not bland—early spring comfort food like

local, golden-roasted chicken legs made heady with earthy, unctuous morel sauce and

balanced with the spring freshness of tender asparagus. Pair that with a scoop of creamy blond

potatoes mashed with cauliflower (this year’s darling of the vegetable world) and seasoned

with spring chives and fresh mint. Complete the comfort-food theme with the brownie’s

fairer cousin, a blondie bar tinged with amber bourbon and dunked in salted caramel sauce.

Chicken2 to 3 garlic cloves

Sea salt, to taste

2 knobs of butter, softened

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp chopped thyme leaves

1 tsp grated lemon peel

6 chicken legs

½ onion, chopped

Morel Sauce½ onion, chopped

¼ lb fresh morels, cleaned, sliced in quarters

½ tsp flour

½ cup white wine

1 to 2 cups chicken broth

To make the chicken, mince garlic, then sprinkle with pinches of sea salt. Using the flat

side of a chef knife, mash garlic to form a paste. Mash in butter, then scrape into a bowl

and stir in Dijon, thyme and lemon peel.

Place legs, flesh-side down, on a cutting board. Cut legs halfway through joints (where

thigh meets drumstick): they’ll cook faster. Flip legs over. Loosen skin on top of each leg

to form a pocket. Divide and tuck in garlic mixture. Massage skin to evenly distribute.

If you have time, cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours or overnight. A little marinating

time strengthens flavours.

Preheat oven to 450°F. Coat a large frying pan with a little oil and add another small

knob of butter. Set over medium-high heat. When melted, add 3 legs, skin-side down.

Cook until golden, 2 minutes, then turn over and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Place in a roast-

ing pan and repeat with remaining chicken legs. Season with salt and pepper. Roast in

oven for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, fry onions in chicken fat in frying pan over medium heat. When soft, add

morels. Sauté until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Once chicken has roasted for

25 minutes, add asparagus to the roasting pan, tucking in as best you can. Continue

roasting until chicken is cooked through and asparagus is tender-crisp, 12 to 15 minutes.

Baste with pan juices a couple of times.

Place chicken and asparagus on a platter. Drain pan drippings into frying pan with

onions and morels and increase heat to medium-high. When bubbly, stir in flour and

cook for 1 minute. Gradually whisk in wine. Let simmer for 2 minutes, then gradually

stir in broth, a little at a time, until sauce is as thick as you like. Spoon over chicken and

squeeze fresh lemon overtop (if you have one kicking around).

CONT’D ON NEXT PAGE

Crispy Chicken Legs with Morels and AsparagusLocal, free-range chickens elevate this dish, and by using the legs only, you save the breasts for another dinner. Morels are early harbingers of spring so use fresh. (To clean fresh morels, place in

a bowl, cover with water, stir in a pinch of salt and soak for 5 minutes, then drain. Rinse and repeat two more times.) Serves 4.

A simple, comfort food menu featuring some golden hues of early spring.


32

BlondeBrowniesBlondeBrownies



Cauliflower and potato mash2 large white potatoes, unpeeled, cut into chunks

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets

1 cup milk, warmed

1 knob butter (optional)

Handful fresh mint, chopped

Handful chives, chopped

In a large saucepan, boil potatoes for 10 to 15 minutes, then add cauliflower. Continue

to boil until both are tender, then drain well. Place back in pot and set over low heat

to absorb excess moisture. Mash, then stir in milk, a little at a time, until mixture is

fluffy. Stir in butter, chives and fresh mint.

Salted Caramel-Bourbon BlondiesThis popular new incarnation of the old standby is chewy, gooey and boozy.

Sauce2 cups granulated sugar

½ cup water

¾ cup unsalted butter, cut into cubes

1 cup 35% whipping cream

1 to 2 Tbsp bourbon or rum

1 Tbsp fleur de sel, maldon or your favourite sea salt

Blondies1 cup unsalted butter

1½ cups packed brown sugar

2 eggs

2 Tbsp bourbon or rum

2 tsp vanilla extract

2¼ cups all-purpose flour

½ tsp baking soda

Pinches of sea salt

1 cup chopped dark chocolate

1 cup toasted chopped almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts or pecans (optional)

For the caramel sauce, pour sugar into a medium-to-large, heavy-bottomed saucepan

and whisk in water to dissolve. Heat over medium-high heat, swirling pan often, until

sugar turns deep amber and smells toasty. If using a candy thermometer, temperature

should register 350°F.

Turn off heat, but leave pan on stove. Carefully whisk in butter cubes, a few at a

time (don’t be shocked when mixture bubbles up like a volcano) until completely

mixed in and melted. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in cream until well

mixed. Whisk in bourbon, then salt.

To make the blondies, line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Preheat

oven to 350°F. Melt butter, then pour into a bowl. Add sugar; using an electric mixer,

beat until smooth. Let cool. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Beat in bourbon, then vanilla.

Stir flour with baking soda and salt. Mix in flour, in three additions, on low speed,

just until mixed. Fold in chocolate and nuts.

Scrape two-thirds of the batter into pan and evenly spread out. Drizzle 3/4 of a cup

of cooled caramel sauce overtop. Drop remaining blondie batter by spoonfuls overtop

of caramel sauce.

Bake until edges are brown and centre is set, about 25 to 30 minutes. Cool com-

pletely before cutting into squares. Dish up with more caramel sauce for dunking.

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BlondeBrowniesBlondeBrownies



liquid assets —by Larry ArnoldSPIRITSLinie Aquavit Norway $43 - 48Linie is the smoothest, richest, tastiest badass aquavityou have ever had the hutzpah to pull out of the freezer!Distilled from potatoes, aged in old sherry casks, thensent on an ocean voyage to Australia and back to polishand mellow. Linie is round and nutty with a robustcaraway flavour.

WHITESSmart Grasshopper Gruner Veltliner 2010Hungary $13 -16Gruner Veltliner is better known as the signature whiteof Austria but more and more solid wines from itsneighbour to the east are finding their way into the BCmarket. Very clean and refreshing with lime, pepper andspice nuances and a crunch of acidity. Super value.

Hess Select Monterey Chardonnay 2010California $20 - 23Tough to beat this excellent California Chardonnay forvalue. Very rich, with ripe pear, citrus and oak aromas,a lush creamy texture and pineapple and toast flavours.Finishes clean and lemony.

REDSRoscato Rosso Dolce 2011, Lombardy, Italy*$15 -16And now for something entirely different! Made from ablend of Croatina, Teroldego and Lagrein, this fun redfrom Lombardy is delicately sweet and fizzy with ripeberry flavours and a burst of acidity. Very refreshing andnicely balanced with only 7% alcohol.

left to right: Chateau de Paraza Cuvee Speciale Minervois 2010, Tscharke Barossa Gold Marananga Shiraz 2011,Hess Select Monterey Chardonnay 2010

We’re Openfor the season!

merridalecider.comfor menus & details

Merridale–a destination for family & friends

Join us March 16th for a new cider release

Spring Celebrations

Mar. 15th–Apr. 1st

Camille`s@ 45 Bastion Square

Victoria, BCV8W 1J1

www.camillesrestaurant.com

At 45 Bastion Square

Globally Inspired. Local Flavour.



DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing information. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may bein limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

Hogue Cellars Genesis Syrah 2005 Washington *$21 - 24 Washington Syrah continues to delight, especially at this price. Hogue Cellars is locatedin the heart of Eastern Washington’s Columbia Valley, the premiere grape growingregion of the state. Classic Syrah fruit, with rich red fruit, black pepper spice and ahint of smokiness. Soft, round and utterly delicious with a long supple finish!Delicious.

Chateau La Pierriere Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2010 France $20 - 23Drinking good Bordeaux is not a cheap endeavor, but with tenacity and a little luck itcan be done. The trick is to load in a few bottles or cases if and when you stumbleacross a good reasonably priced one because it will not be around long. That is thenature of the beast. A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20%Cabernet Franc, this tasty Saint-Emilion knock-off is medium bodied with ripe black-berry and raspberry flavours nicely balanced with soft, silky tannins. A pretty gooddrop for the money.

Domaine de Cristia Cotes du Rhone 2011 France * $21 - 23The vineyards of Domaine de Cristia have been certified “agriculture biologique” byECOCERT since the 2008 vintage. This is a good thing. It is good for the environmentand it is good for you! Domaine de Cristia Cote du Rhone is 100% Grenache from 40year old vines. Medium bodied with red berry, spice and licorice flavours and a soft,silky texture.

Tscharke Barossa Gold Marananga Shiraz 2011 Australia $20 -23This wine is classic Barossa Shiraz. Aged for 12 months in a combination of new andused French oak, Barossa Gold is all fruit, with blackberry, plum and peppery aromas.Full-bodied and lushly textured with concentrated berry, licorice and spice flavours,soft tannins and a tasty finish.

Tommasi Valpolicella Classico 2011 Italy $20 -22 Over the years and after countless bottles of thin, insipid bottles of Valpolicella, I thinkwe finally have a winner. Light to medium-bodied with ripe red cherry flavours,refreshing acidity and a patina of soft tannin.

Prunotto Barbaresco 2009 Italy * $50 -60It is tough tasting young Barolo and Barbaresco but very rewarding once they have afew years in the bottle. This Barbaresco was no exception. Initially the wine was veryclosed but after a couple of hours in the decanter the nose was very pronounced withdried herbs, roses and tar aromas. Almost unctuous on the palate with dark berry andmineral flavours softly framed with fine-grained tannins.

Chateau de Paraza Cuvee Speciale Minervois 2010 France * $17 -18Chateau de Paraza is located in the heart of the Minervois, an area planted withvineyards since the arrival of the Romans. Simple and delicious with ripe juicy fruit,spice and anise flavours and a soft tannic structure.

Chateau de Cabriac Corbieres 2009 France * $17 - 18A blend of Syrah (45%) Mourvedre (20%) Carignan (15%) and Grenache (20%). Denseand powerful with concentrated blackberry, coffee and herbal flavours and rasp offine-grained tannins on the finish. Good value.

CHEFS/MANAGERSTurnkey Restaurant For Lease

Destination Resort Restaurant located on the marina in Ucluelet, West Coast Vancouver Island, BC (formerly known as The Boat Basin Restaurant).

√ Size: approx., 2,300 sq. ft√ Lease: $10/sf, fixed for 2-years√Option to purchase can be negotiated√ Liquor License allowed for 110 seatsinside and 40 outside on south facingdeck√ Fully equipped, including Woodstonepizza oven√ Ready to open!√More photos available

Make your mark on the BC culinary scene here!

Contact Stephen Duke 604 369-2545

[email protected]

same room, same f r iends , spr ing menu

2232 oak bay avenueT 250.590.7424

[email protected]

A T T H E P E N N Y F A R T H I N G P U B

A BEER & A BITEThe Beer: St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout (Quebec)Pitch black colour, creamy head and plenty of carbonation. A rich,smoky and big roast European-style stout with a dark chocolatearoma and a dry, bitter espresso finish. 5% alc

The Bite: Classic Smoked Meat SandwichA heaping pile of hand-cured, hand-smoked Victoria stylepastrami sliced thin (from The Whole Beast) on wood-fired, 60%rye bread (from Wild Fire) slathered with mayo and browndeli mustard. On the side: a couple of crunchy Stubb's BabyKosher Dills.

The Conclusion:What could be better than a beer + meat + bread combo?mcauslan.com facebook.com/thewholebeastsalumeriawildfirebakery.ca


“Cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush.” That was my initial introduction to Sauvignon Blanc. For a budding wine enthusiast this was at onceterrifying (you want me to drink what?) and relieving (finally wine descriptors that make sense!), and evenas a gnarly vine wine enthusiast that description has stuck with me. Of course, Sauvignon Blanc is so muchmore than that memorable phrase. This green-skinned grape most likely hails from France’s Loire Valley,where it can blindingly shine in the Kimmeridgian limestone and Silex flint. As the third most plantedwhite variety in France, Sauvignon Blanc (from the French for sauvage, meaning wild), is also comfortablyat home in Bordeaux, blending in harmony with Semillon; and also throughout Languedoc-Roussillon,contributing greatly to simple and tart Pays d’Oc. The highly vigorous grape is widely adaptable,spreading as easily worldwide as its tangled and aggressive foliage. All things green are its hallmark: grass,hedge, meadow, asparagus, kiwi, green peppers, gooseberries, as well as passionfruit and elderflower inslightly warmer climates. Crisp, piercing acidity permeates all wines, save for those harvested in the hottestregions, and helps preserve freshness and zest in late harvest or oaked examples. The grape rocketed tofame over the past 20 years in New Zealand, finding a prime home for a concentrated, pungent, fresh andunoaked style.


Sauvignon Blanc

vincabulary - By Treve Ring *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may be in limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

Blue MountainVineyard & CellarsSauvignon Blanc 2011

ORIGIN: Okanagan Valley,BC

THE WALLET: *$19-25

ALCOHOL: 12% abv

TASTE: If Sauvignon Blanc’s

aggressive bite has made

you shy away, try again with

this lovely balanced style

from one of BC’s top

producers. Partial

fermentation in old French

oak has tempered the

grape’s piercing acidity, and

gentle lees treatment has

rounded the mouthfeel.

Focused and sunny without

sharpness, with light

meadow, green apple and

citrus freshness.

FRIENDLY

{SOH-vin-yohn BLAHNGK; soh-vee-nyawn BLAHN}

Domaine LaporteWoodcutters Shiraz 2010

ORIGIN: Pouilly-Fumé, Loire,France

THE WALLET: $30-35

ALCOHOL: 12.5% abv

TASTE: At first sniff through

to last drop – flint, stone

and lime pith. This dry,

bracing white from the Loire

has mouthwatering white

grapefruit and tight, white

flowers in spades, along

with chalky minerality, cool

cantaloupe and cooler

earth. Assertive and

awesomely unapologetic,

this is a wine that mirrors its

place.

LIVELY

Cono SurOrganic Sauvignon Blanc

2012

ORIGIN: San Antonio Valley,Aconcagua, Chile

THE WALLET: *$15-18

ALCOHOL: 13% abv

TASTE: Green from

production (organic) to

fruits (gooseberry, lime),

this coastal valley Chilean

white is pleasantly padded

with ripe pear, pink grape-

fruit and green apple. There

is a likeable spicy lemon zest

and fragrant tropical

blossom to the finish. This

Sauv Blanc strikes a great

balance between tropical

richness and marine

freshness.

GREEN

Francois LurtonLes Fumées Blanches 2011

ORIGIN: Vin de Pays d’Oc,Languedoc, France

THE WALLET: $14-17

ALCOHOL: 12% abv

TASTE: Superb value in this

mainstay screwcap bottle

(a by-the-glass favourite of

many local sommeliers).

A puff of smoke and large

pinch of savoury rock salt

opens into dried apricot,

green apple, wild grasses,

bitter melon and a pleasing,

almost-oily palate. Focused

and steely acidity through-

out.

STEELY

Greywacke VineyardsSauvignon Blanc 2010

ORIGIN: Marlborough, NewZealand

THE WALLET: *$33-40

ALCOHOL: 13.5% abv

TASTE : This is one of those

wines that lingers long after

the bottle is empty.

Intriguing herbal stoniness

is your first aromatic

introduction, and the

sweetest, early-spring

asparagus is the first across

the palate. Savoury cured

pork, honey, light petrol,

citrus and apricot fuzz

present in the glass, with

ever-present flinty mineral-

ity. The mouthfeel is rich,

but the taut acid keeps it

lean. The finish is fresh and

lingering – and the memory

yearning for the next glass.

The 2011 vintage is on

shelves now.

EXPRESSIVE

Ferrari-CaranoFumé Blanc 2011

ORIGIN: Sonoma County,California

THE WALLET: $25-30

ALCOHOL: 13.9% abv

TASTE: This ripe and creamy

oaked white will equally suit

white fish as it will white

meats. Light ash, toast and

red apple aromas lead to a

round and full bodied palate

with white honey, baked

lemon, pear and goose-

berry. Fresh melon on the

finish, and lemony acidity

keep this wine buoyant, and

a herbal, anise-medicinal

note on the finish keeps it

edgy.

CREAMY

Photo by Gary H

ynes


vincabulary - By Treve Ring

37www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2013EAT MAGAZINE 37



The Wines of SicilySicilian character, culture, language and cuisine area rich and fascinating blend that lately is finding itsway into the country’s wines.

Sicily is Italy’s most southern and storied region. Hollywood has romanticized itsMafia, but the reality is stark and devastating. There is another reality, however. Sicilyexperienced first-hand is a feast for the senses with exotic and gutsy flavours ondisplay in the labyrinth of market streets (spleen sandwich, anyone?). Sicily demandsyou to be adventurous and will reward your curiosity. In ancient times, Sicily was prized for its sweet elixirs. The last century, however,

proved to be its winemaking nadir. Poorly run co-operatives dominated, pumping outbulk wine to beef up thin wines in northern Italy and beyond. As governmentsubsidies ran out, the co-op system started to collapse. The 1990s saw a boom of newwineries thanks to private investment and the focus started shifting to quality. Withlittle rain, lots of sunshine, hillside sites, diverse soils and a wealth of indigenousvarieties, Sicily has everything it needs to succeed. The newer generation iscapitalizing on this.The Planeta family is among the early champions and provides a great example of

the positive evolution of Sicily’s wine story. Diego Planeta ran the Settesoli co-op for40 years, retiring a few months ago. Under his direction, Settesoli was the first to selldry wines in bottle rather than in bulk. Besides raising the quality of the co-op, hestarted his own winery with daughter Francesca and nephew Alessio. WelcomingMichaela at their estate in Sambuca di Sicilia, Francesca recounted Planeta’s trajectoryover a simple but delectable spaghetti pomodoro with eggplant. After first capturingdrinkers’ attention with modern wines made from international grapes, the Planetasthen introduced them to Sicily’s native varieties. Francesca spoke passionately aboutthe family’s latest project of reviving the island’s ancient varieties. For such southerly climes, Sicily produces a surprising amount of white wine, made

necessary by the islanders’ mainly fish and vegetable diet. Modern technology hasbeen a godsend for white wine production with temperature control doing wondersfor preserving freshness. In the not-too-distant past, Sicilian whites suffered from beingoxidized, making them tiring and heavy. Sicily’s most planted grape is the much-maligned Catarrato. It tends to be quite

neutral, but some producers have managed to coax out some pleasant citrus and herbalflavours. Insolio and Grillo are more highly regarded varieties. Michaela sampledInsolia’s inherent nuttiness at Osteria Antica Marina in the heart of Catania’s fishmarket. It was paired brilliantly with a fusilli with a Northern African twist of almondpesto and shrimp. Grillo is the perfect foil for raw tuna and prawns. Perhaps the mostexciting grape is Carricante grown on the slopes of Mount Etna. Notes of citrusblossom, orange, honey and wild mountain herbs are supported by refreshing acidityand minerality. Though not inexpensive at $35, Planeta’s Carricante will give you ataste of this delicious gem.Despite the plethora of whites, however, it is Sicily’s reds that are getting the region

noticed—with Nero d’Avola leading the way. It was its deep colour that made Nerod’Avola a desirable blender for the anemic wines of Italy’s north. From anonymousworkhorse to celebrated vedette, Nero d’Avola has become Sicily’s flagship grape.Different expressions exist: sometimes fresh and savoury, other times richer with adried fruit character. In general, Nero d’Avola gives flavours of purple plums, blackcherries, chocolate, licorice and spice. It manages to preserve its acidity and attractivearomas despite the island’s heat. Firm tannins lend aging potential and the wines candevelop a tarriness with time. Tasting through a collection of Nero d’Avolas currentlyavailable in B.C., we were impressed with the overall quality across a range of prices. Though not nearly as widely planted, Frappato has won affection with its intense

and charming perfume of fresh pure red summer fruit. Think strawberries andcherries with refreshing crunchy acidity. Paler in colour and lighter in body with muchsofter, finer tannin than Nero d’Avola, Frappato displays surprising lightness for a winefrom this far south. Cheerful and chuggable, this is Italy’s answer to Beaujolais.Frappato and Nero d’Avola come together in wines designated as Cerasuolo di

terroir — by Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris



Vittoria. This traditional partnership is an intriguing counterpart to the newfangledblends of Nero d’Avola with international grapes. Cerasuolo di Vittoria offers morestructure and body than Frappato would have on its own but retains an aromatic liftthat defines the latter. Fresh and gregarious, it is not out of place next to seared tunacrusted with pistachios. Cerasuolo di Vittoria from Planeta and COS can sometimes befound on B.C. shelves. Arguably one of the most stunning wine regions in the world, Mount Etna is Sicily’s

latest buzz locale and a highlight of Michaela’s recent trip. The vineyards form a back-wards C around this snowcapped active volcano. Black lava soil contrasts with theintense azure Mediterranean, which can be spied from the slopes. Hundreds of yearsof various eruptions and lava flows have contributed to the incredible diversity of soilin vineyards scattered around the mountain at altitudes ranging from 400 to 1,200metres. In some vineyards, Michaela could barely see the vines for all the wild flow-ers. Amidst the tangled mess of vibrant yellow ginestra, crimson poppies, oversizedfennel fronds and purple blossoms, Nerello Mascalese thrives. This grape could looselybe described as Pinot Noir’s rustic and hot-blooded cousin. Usually light in colour andmedium bodied, Nerello Mascalese beguiles with beautiful aromas of spice and flow-ers against a backdrop of warming alcohol. Wines from Etna are just starting to trickleinto B.C. and Rilento is a well-priced staple. More expensive and sporadically available,the wines of Terre Nerre, Passopisciaro and Frank Cornelissen will transport you tothis exotic destination.A chaotic and contradictory but beautiful island, Sicily has been ruled by a dizzying

array of peoples: Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Byzantines, Spaniardsand more, all leaving some imprint. The Sicilian character, culture, architecture,language and cuisine are a rich and fascinating blend of all of these. And the diversityof wines is equally rich. Sicily is must-visit place for the wine lover, whether youactually make it to the island or in the glass.

Tasting NotesWhites

2011 Casa Planeta, Grecanico-Chardonnay, Sicilia IGT, $16-18

Juicy and thirst quenching. Lively notes of lime and white grapefruit awaken your palate. A treat

with vegetable and seafood dishes.

2011 Feudo di Mezzogiorno, Grillo Chardonnay, Bianca Sicilia IGT, $16-18*

Bursting with honey, hay, melon and lanolin. Full body and round offset by searing acidity. Try

with a classic dish of bucatini con le sarde (pasta with sardines, fennel, pine nuts and raisins).

2011 Donnafugata, ‘Lighea’ Zibbibo, Sicilia IGT, $33-37*

Known as Zibbibo in Sicily, Muscat d’Alexandria is typically associated with sweet wine. This is

a rare example of a stunning dry version. Exotic concentrated notes of orange peel and white

grapes.

Reds

2011 Abbazia Santa Anastasia, ‘Contempo’ Nero d’Avola, Rosso Sicilia IGT, $19-22*

Dominated by fruity, brambly flavours yet balanced by some good acidity. Simple but satisfying.

2010 Marabino, Nero d’Avola, Noto DOC, $27-31

Concentrated flavours of figs, prunes, sweet tobacco and chocolate yet earthy. A great buy for Old

World neophytes. Fabulous with Moroccan lamb.

2011 Occhipinti, SP68, IGT Sicilia $35-39

A Nero d’Avola and Frappato blend in the spirit of Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Wild fresh strawberries,

cherries and ripe rhubarb. The ideal roast chicken wine.

2009 Mazzei, ‘Zisola’ Nero d’Avola, Sicila IGT, $36-40*

Elegance meets power. Complex and enticing herbal, tar, cherry and dried fruit flavours are

interlayered with savoury mineral notes.

2008 Donnafugata, ‘Tancredi’ Sicilia Rosso IGP, $45-50*

(Cab Sauv/Nero d’Avola/Tannat) Rich, fruit-driven and complex, it represents the appealing

modern side of Sicily.

Dessert

2009 Donnafugata, ‘Ben Ryé’ Passito di Pantelleria DOP, $47-52* 375ml

The sweet Sicilian wines of centuries ago are being revived and starting to live up to their

reputation. Wow! Luscious and complex with delectable lingering notes of honey, orange peel and

raisins.

DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing information. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may bein limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.



Stacey feels very lucky to be able to eat and drink for a living.Being in the retail wine, beer and spirit business for 9 years atThe Hillside Liquor Store and the restaurant business for 10years prior (The Marina, Cafe Brio and Suze) has given her theopportunity to taste an extensive amount of wine. Beingmarried to Chef Sean Brennan of Brasserie L'Ecole providesher with the chance to pair delicious food and wine every day!

SPRING ON THE COASTGrilled Halibut with Asparagus, Garlic Scapes & Wild MorelMushrooms with Sorrel Butter

SB. There is nothing more West Coast than fresh halibut - its firm texture, low fat contentand clean taste pairs perfectly with the sweet flavour of asparagus and nutty earthiness ofwild morels. My favourite wine pairing with this dish is a dry, pale pink Côtes de ProvenceRosé with notes of strawberry, cherry and spice. The sea winds, Mediterranean soil,sunshine and vineyards surrounded by lavender, rosemary and thyme lend perfectly to theearthy qualities of the dish.

SLG. The charred flavour of grilled fish, along with the asparagus and mushroom wouldideally pair well with a light, cru Beaujolais from the southern part of Burgundy. It is bestserved cool but not cold (at around 12 to 14 degrees Celsius). The 2009 or 2010 vintagefrom the following villages would be a great match for this dish: Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent orJulienas. In addition, you could also pair this dish with a lovely lighter-style local Gamay(Cru Beaujolais are made from 100% Gamay grape). If you prefer red, try to stay away fromanything that is too oaky. Keep it fresh and with low tannin.

JN. The bold, fresh flavours of spring call for equally bold bottles. But do you go with off-dry and fruity to contrast the grill? Or earthy and audacious to play off the fresh produce?In the end I’m choosing the latter and going with Vinho Verde from Portugal, BUT not thesimple, slightly spritzy whites typically associated with the region. I’m seeing a handful ofserious, and seriously tasty Vinho Verde that pours this stereotype out the bottle - winesmade from indigenous grapes like Loureiro that tease the tastebuds with floral notes, citrus,and an intense wet stone mineral quality that builds as the wine warms in the glass.

Stacey Brennan (SB)Manager, Hillside Liquor Store

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours.

T H I S M O N T H ’ S E X P E R T S James Nevison (JN)Wine Columnist & Author

SPRING ON THE COASTGrilled Halibut with Asparagus, Garlic Scapes & Wild MorelMushrooms with Sorrel Butter

BONUS CHALLENGERoasted Bone Marrow, Sea Urchin, Bacon Crisp

Sebastien LeGoff (SLG)Service Director & Sommelier, Cactus Restaurants Ltd.

A highly talented and respected veteran of the Vancouver restaurant scene,Sebastien works with the front of house team to build the service program, andas a decorated sommelier, he also works with the bar operations team on thewine and beverage program. His esteemed career as a sommelier andrestaurant manager has been built in top rooms worldwide, including GM fordb bistro moderne in Singapore, Director of Operations and BeverageManager with Uva Wine Bar and Cibo Trattoria, Director of Operations andWine Director at Lumier̀e and Feenies; Restaurant and Wine Director at CinCin;and various roles at select Oliver Bonacini Group restaurants.

James is the weekly wine columnist for The Provincenewspaper and the author (or co-author) of sevenbest-selling books on wine. His latest, Had a Glass2013: The top 100 wines under $20, was recentlypublished through Appetite by Random House.

BONUS CHALLENGERoasted Bone Marrow, Sea Urchin, Bacon Crisp

SB. The combination of bone marrow, sea urchin and bacon creates anincredibly rich, salty, unctuous meaty dish. I would pair an Alsatian offdry Pinot Gris - the bold aromatics and balanced acidity will stand up tothe saltiness and fattiness of the dish perfectly!

SLG. With something as decadent, rich and high in umami as bonemarrow, bacon and sea urchin, I would open a bottle of wine that offershigh acidity and is very refreshing. You need a beverage that is going tocut through the food. Bubbles would be the ideal pairing. Either some-thing from BC such as the Blue Mountain Brut or the Road 13 SparklingChenin Blanc. Or, if one wanted to indulge, which I highly recommend,go for a bottle from Champagne. Charles Heidsieck or Larmandier Bernierwould be my picks. If I had to pick my last meal on earth, it would be seaurchin and aged Champagne.

JN. Whoa, talk about an umami bomb! Let’s keep to the Iberian Peninsulaand head over the border into northwest Spain. A fresh, bone-dryAlbariño will counterbalance the rich bone marrow - and if you close youreyes while sipping you might even get a smidge of salinity in the wine,which will complement the briny sea urchin and salty bacon.

What to drink with that!



Perfec tly placedin the

South Okanagan

www.tinhorn.com

Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.


The BuzzVICTORIA: If early spring has you on the hunt for wild foods there are a couple of new resources to takenote of. First, we have an exciting new book by Vancouver Island’s own Bill Jones to inspire us; The Deer-holme Mushroom Book – From Foraging to Feasting (TouchWood Editions) will be released April 9. BillJones will be hosting a special book launch dinner at Deerholme Farm, featuring recipes from his newbook. Tickets are $120 and include an autographed copy of the book. (www.deerholme.com) RoyalRoads Continuing Studies department is offering a two-day workshop on the Wild Foods of SouthernVancouver Island at the end of the month (Apr 27-28) including field trips, harvesting and cooking tips.(http://cstudies.royalroads.ca)

Urban foraging is poised to become a whole lot easier, if you count finding your edible treasures at themarket. In late January, an eager crowd of market vendors, organizers and supporters toured theVictoria Downtown Public Market’s new space at the Hudson, visualizing the farmer’s stands, thecommunity kitchen, stage, sitting areas and retail spaces that are going to materialize over the next fewmonths. Imagine walking through the doors on Douglas St., stopping for some Silk Road Tea, samplingsome Salt Spring Island cheese, grabbing some fresh local greens for your salad. There will be a WildFire Bakery, baking bread on site, you’ll be able to pick up George Szasz’s sausages, or stop by thebutcher’s shop. There will be places to grab a bite as well – a soup stand brought to you by Cosmo Means(Hot and Cold Café) and a Foo outlet. Victoria’s new food mecca is anticipating a late spring opening.(www.victoriapublicmarket.com)

Winter saw the doors close at The Edge, in Sooke. The award-winning restaurant sold and the locationwill return to its former incarnation selling Fish and Chips. However, there is an upcoming opportunity tosample one of chef Edward Tucson’s culinary creations in Victoria, as he is one of the participants at thisyear’s Colour Your Palate event, taking place at the University Club on April 10. Other participatingrestaurants include Camille’s, Bon Rouge French Bistro, Spinnakers and The Beach HouseRestaurant. Colour Your Palate is an annual fundraiser for the artsReach project. Participating chefscreate a unique canapé that showcases one particular colour. Tickets are $60 in advance or $65 at thedoor. For more information call: (250) 812-3881. (www.octacollective.com/colouryourpalate)

Pandora Street has a new eatery in the Stadacona Centre – The Tartan Toque is the latest venturefrom the people who brought us Shine, and offers Victorians twenty flavours of chicken wings, priced at$9/pound (12-14 wings). Also on the menu are hotdogs and burgers, served on Portofino or OriginBakery’s gluten-free buns. In fact, the Toque has already created a bit of buzz in the city’s gluten freecommunity, boasting a designated GF deep fryer and many gluten free menu options.(www.thetartantoque.ca)

Two Canadian chains have recently found homes in downtown Victoria – Quebec’s breakfast giantCora has opened its first location on Vancouver Island on Douglas in the space formerly occupied bySmitty’s. Madame Cora originated the concept in 1987 when, as a single mother in need of a career, shebought a small abandoned diner on Côte Vertu Boulevard in Montreal’s St. Laurent area, focusing solelyon breakfasts: fresh fruit, cheese, cereal, omelets, crepes and French toast. The Cora restaurant chain isfamous for its all-day breakfasts with mounds of fresh fruit artfully prepared by on-site, specially trained“fruiters”. (www.chezcora.com) Romer’s Waterfront Tap Room has signed the lease for a 3,500 square

foot space in the historic CPR Steamship building on Belleville, with plans for one hundred seats indoorsand additional seating on an outdoor patio. This is the first Vancouver Island location for Romer’s, with twoestablished in the Vancouver area since 2010. Romer’s is set to open later this spring.(www.romersburgerbar.com) —Rebecca Baugniet

VANCOUVER: The Fat Dragon, one of 2012’s most popular and celebrated new restaurants, has closedits doors, after only nine months of operation. Despite its culinary success, the Downtown Eastside neigh-bourhood ended up not being a good fit for the concept. Here’s hoping those amazing dry crispy ribs makeit onto the menu of Campagnolo or Roma. In other sad news, after over 37 years of operation, UmbertoMenghi announced that he is closing Il Giardino (www.umberto.com), his signature downtownrestaurant, this spring. The building will be torn down to make way for a new condo development. Menghistill runs his restaurants in Whistler and his cooking school in Italy.

David Gunanwan, the EC who opened Wildebeest (www.wildebeest.ca) to much acclaim, has left therestaurant to become a partner in Che Baba Cantina and Yoga Studio (www.chebaba.ca). Taking overat Wildebeest will be chef Wesley Young, who was a member of the opening team under Gunawan. The Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise Program has welcomed its first Chinese restaurant partner,

Szechuan Chongqing Seafood Restaurant (www.szechuanchongqing.com). The program is hopingto get more Chinese restaurants on board to promote sustainable seafood options and end the inclusionof dishes like shark fin soup. Colin Turner, former Bar Manager at Cin Cin Ristorante, has taken over thewood at the newly-opened East of Main Café (www.eastofmaincafe.com), a community-orientedcocktail and tapas spot that donates all profits to Project Limelight, a free performing arts programavailable to children of the DTES. Provence owners Jean-Francis and Alessandra Quaglia have expandedtheir holdings and opened The Wine Bar (www.thewinebar.ca) next door to Provence Marinaside. Thenew space seats 30 and offers 50 wines on tap (all available by the glass), as well as a small bites menu.Open from a very civilized three p.m. daily.Fresh St. Market (www.freshstmarket.com) has opened with a “fresh” concept on the North Shore.

More than just a grocer, this retail operation offers an olive oil bar, self-serve balsamic vinegar bar, freshhoney, custom-made cheeses and meats, as well as a chili pepper station, Ocean Wise seafood, store-madesausages and more. Vij’s owners Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala have partnered with the University ofBritish Columbia to create a new venture, Vij’s Kitchen, a facility that provides state-of-the-art learningspace for UBC students studying food, nutrition and health, dietetics, community health and multiculturalexchange.

Acclaimed barman Jay Jones has joined The Donnelly Group (www.donnellygroup.ca) as ExecutiveBartender and Brand Ambassador. Jones previously worked at the Shangri-La and has been namedCanadian Bartender of the Year. EC Chris Whittaker of Forage Restaurant (www.foragevancouver.com)won both People’s Choice and Critics’ Choice for his wild B.C. spot prawn chowder at the fifth annualVancouver Aquarium’s Chowder Chowdown. The dish also included smoked pork hock, pork crack-ling and soft-boiled quail egg, and will be available on the restaurant menu for several months. Save onMeats (www.saveonmeats.ca) has launched a meal token program to support Downtown Eastside resi-dents. Tokens can be purchased for $2.25 each and can be redeemed for a hot breakfast sandwich at

Cont’d on the next page

WHO’S DOING WHAT IN VICTORIA, VANCOUVER, THE OKANAGAN, TOFINO, THE COWICHAN & NANAIMO


170 UPPER BENCH ROAD SOUTH, PENTICTON T. 250 770 1733 WWW.UPPERBENCH.CA

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the sandwich window. Purchasers can choose to donate tokens directly or else have Save on Meatsdistribute them to one of their community partners. Beta 5 Chocolates (www.beta-5.com) has beennamed one of North America’s Top 10 chocolatiers by Dessert Professional. Beta 5 also receivedsilver at the International Chocolate Awards in London for their Imperial Stout flavor filled chocolate.—Anya Levykh

TOFINO: Changes are afoot at Long Beach Lodge Resort. At the end of 2012, the resort’sgeneral manager Perry Schmunk left Tofino to become the director of marketing for the Cactus Clubgroup of restaurants in Vancouver. Early in 2013, LBL welcomed a new executive chef – Chef IanRiddick. Chef Riddick is formerly of the Delta Hotels in Whistler and Sun Peaks, as well as thePinnacle Hotel in Vancouver. The new-to-Tofino chef said he looks forward to showcasing some ofthe “best raw ingredients in the world” from Vancouver Island in his cuisine at the Lodge.(www.longbeachlodgeresort.com)

I know many locals who were thankful to hear the Schooner Restaurant was bringing back theirbrunch menu on Saturdays and Sundays from 10am-3pm. The Blackstone benny, huevos rancherosand even burgers are available for weekend brunch once again. (www.schoonerrestaurant.com)

The culinary festival Feast! Tofino doesn’t happen until May, but the focus was on this eventduring a recent February fundraiser. The Feast! on Love event took place on Valentine’s Day at theconference centre at the Tin Wis Best Western Resort. The chefs of Tofino served up an eveningof sustainable seafood canapés, an oyster bar, and decadent desserts. Musical guests included MissQuincy and the Showdown, Miss Rosie Bitts, and Tofino’s own all-female bluegrass band, the PoorPistols. The event was a fundraiser for the Tofino-Ucluelet Culinary Guild, as well as for Feast!. Formore information about the festival itself, which runs for the entire month of May this year, please visitwww.feasttofino.com and see the May/June edition of EAT.

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival from March 16-24 is the first big event of the tourist season onthe west coast. A variety of events, including some great culinary ones, help welcome back visitorsand our fluked friends back to our shores. Not all events were finalized by press time; many will beadded as they are confirmed. The Wickaninnish Inn hosted the annual PRWF Fundraising Gala andSilent Auction just prior to opening day of the festival on March 14. All proceeds from the event,including ticket sales and auction funds raised, are donated to the whale festival. Thanks once againto managing director Charles McDiarmid and Chef Nick Nutting’s culinary brigade for hosting thisimportant and enjoyable event. (www.wickinn.com)

At least four food-related events are happening during the whale festival, including the ChowderChowdown on Sunday, March 17 and the Sweet Indulgence dessert reception on March 19, both

The Buzz

Cont’d on the next page



at the Ucluelet Community Centre. On Tuesday, March 21 Black Rock Oceanfront Resort is hostingthe Barnacle Blues barbecue, featuring the musical talents of John Mann and Viper Central. Starting at7pm, this event features gourmet appetizers by local chefs and complimentary beverages. The closingceremony for the festival is a First Nations-hosted salmon barbecue at the Tin Wis Best WesternResort Sunday, March 24. Thanks to the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation and the Tin Wis for hosting. For moreinformation about the Pacific Rim Whale Festival and a complete calendar of events, please visitwww.pacificrimwhalefestival.com.

Chef Lisa Ahier of SoBo Restaurant asked Facebook followers what should be on the menu this yearahead of their re-opening Feb. 14, and the overwhelming votes were to bring back risotto bullets,mushroom enchiladas, and crab wontons. The Random House SoBo cookbook should be out this yearas well, so there’s much to look forward to as we head towards brighter weather on the west coast.(www.sobo.ca) —Jen Dart

COWICHAN VALLEY: Spring has sprung outside, and inside on our tables as well. Chef Bill Jones isobserving the change of season with a “Spring Celebration Dinner” at Deerholme Farm on Saturday,March 23rd. This elaborate feast features some of spring’s best culinary offerings, including braisedlamb shank, nettles, leeks, and morel mushrooms (www.deerholme.com; 250-748-7450). If you didn’tbrave the cold to visit the outdoor Duncan Farmers Market during the winter, spring’s warmingtemperatures and bounty of appealing produce make this the perfect place to start spending yourSaturday mornings. The market is currently open 10am-2pm every Saturday in Duncan’s City Square(www.duncanfarmersmarket.ca; 250-732-1723). One of the most delicious vegetables coming intoseason at this time of year is local asparagus, which starts its harvesting season around mid-to-late April,depending on the weather. Cowichan Bay’s Pedrosa’s Asparagus Farm grows some of the finestasparagus around, attracting customers from near and far. Asparagus can be purchased directly fromthe farm, but be warned- they often sell out! Call or check their website to check availability and find upto date information about the start of this year’s season (www.asparagusfarmplus.com; 250-733-0700).

Many local wineries went into hibernation over the winter months but are now reopening for tastingsand other events. On April 5th-7th the Cowichan Wineries Co-op is putting on the “Be a Wine &Culinary Tourist On Your Own Island” weekend, which offers a first class wine and culinary getawayright here in the valley. This package includes 2 nights accommodation at the Oceanfront Suites and2 days full of wine tours, tastings, and meals. If you’re coming from the mainland, a SaltSpring Air flightcan be added on to the package. Full details and pricing can be found online (www.wines.cowichan.net).

Peak oyster season will be drawing to a close soon, as the pacific waters get warmer. Before that hap-pens, make sure you enjoy as many of these delicious gems as possible. Bird’s Eye Cove Farm will behosting a “Culinary Learning” session devoted to oysters on March 2nd. This is the perfect event if you’rea shellfish lover looking for new tips and ideas for preparing oysters (www.birdseyecovefarm.com;250-748-6379). Easter falls at the end of March this year, and True Grain Bakery will be offering hot-cross buns in addition to their usual excellent selection of wheat, spelt, and ancient grain breads. Whileyou’re there, check out their new “batons”, short baguette style breads stuffed with a range of fruits, nuts,and cheeses (www.truegrain.ca; 250-746-7664). If you’re looking for a great bottle of wine to enjoywith your Easter lunch, consider some of the many great offerings from the Valley’s local wineries.Averill Creek Vineyard’s Gewürztraminer 2011, Rocky Creek Winery’s Robin’s Rosé 2011 or BlueGrouse Estate Winery’s Pinot Gris 2008 are all options that pair well with ham. —Lindsay Muir

NANAIMO & UP ISLAND: The At this time of year it’s not hard to dream of a weekend getaway to aremote cabin in the wilderness, where you indulgeyour senses and relax the time away. Here’s a shortterm solution; make a reservation at the new HilltopBistro in north Nanaimo formerly Markt ArtisanDeli, still owned and operated by chef Ryan Zuvich.The beautiful timber building is only improved by thesmall intimate and cozy room accented with wood.A gorgeous glass window showcases Chef Ryanand his team as they prepare his sophisticated fare.Our meals started with an oh-so-silky, mushroomvolute amuse bouché, followed by the tenderestHumboldt squid and hard to find charred greenshoshito peppers. The amazing bacon wrappedchicken was as delightful as any I’ve had anywhere,anytime, and we enjoyed it with a crisp glass of per-fectly paired wine from the small but enticing drinksmenu. We simply couldn’t resist a taste of Chef’schocolate terrine with olive oil, crispy walnuts andmelt in your mouth beignets. (www.hilltopbistro.ca5281 Rutherford Rd 250-585-5337)

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The Buzz

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familiar with our locally produced ingredients…. but there is some-thing new on the market! Pacific Coast Wasabi has been busyestablishing itself in BC, with a new farm in Nanaimo. A relative ofwatercress, wasabi is perfectly suited to our coastal climate. While itis most familiarly enjoyed with sushi there is no limit to its culinary useswhen you can get it fresh at your doorstep. (www.wasabia.com)

Most of us here on the island have at one time or another stoppedat the Market in Coombs for some wonderful baked goods preparedby Baker Susan Pauli. Now you can get all of your favourites at hernewly opened Trees Diner. Susan’s Mennonite background taughther the value of good food; she is passionate about providingwonderful home style offerings from breakfast to dinner. 1385 AlberniHwy, ParksvilleNamul: a Korean word for ‘any edible greens or herbs’. Hyun Joo

Lee is the Chef and owner behind the newly named restaurant,formerly called The Tea Room. Joo loves food, and she cooks whather mom cooked for her; authentic Korean food that’s healthy andmade from scratch. Traditional Korean flavours are savoury andperfectly balanced with a wide range of choices. Hot and spicy soupsfor the brave or rice and noodle dishes that make your taste buds sing.Close the meal with Joo’s signature cinnamon bread pudding, the bestI’ve ever had. 5291 Rutherford Rd.

If you haven’t tasted it already, microbiologist Scott DiGuistini andwife Merissa Myles are producing small batch artisan yogurt in theComox Valley at Tree Island Yogurt. Using the best local nonhomogenized milk, fruit, and honey available they are aiming toimprove long term human and environmental health. The clean, freshdelicately flavoured taste is superior to anything else available. Visittheir web site at www.cultured-dairy.com to find some for yourself atlocal grocers. —Kirsten Tyler

OKANAGAN VALLEY: Kelowna’s award-winning team chef RodButters and Audrey Surrao, the co-owners of RauDZ Regional TableRestaurant, excitedly open their second restaurant Micro Bar •Bites in March just steps from their current location. At only 900square feet, Micro Bar’s menu will revolve around the “perfect ten”.Local wines, cocktails, beers and bites will each be offered with only10 selections. With RauDZ lined-up every night, Micro Bar is al-ready slated to be a success. 1500 Water Street, Kelowna. Anothermuch anticipated restaurant opening slated for mid-March isKelowna’s Manteo Resort which closed Wild Apple Grill and com-pleted a 1.5 million renovation to unveil their new restaurant, SmackDab. BC and Pacific Northwest micro-breweries will take centre stage

as Smack Dab will offer Kelowna’s largest selection of craft beers.Wine-lovers will still enjoy the carefully chosen wine list. WithCanada’s legendary chef Bernard Casavant at the helm this prom-ises to be one of the Okanagan’s best options for casual lakeside din-ing as well as a pint or two. manteoresort.com

Looking for downtown charm and something good to eat- simplyhead to Front Street in downtown Penticton. The line-up includesDream Café, Isshin Sushi Bar, Ginza Sushi, Wild ScallionRestaurant, The Cupcake Lady Café - home to sinfully addictivecrepes and Burger 55 which is just around the corner. Joining theFront Street line-up, the delightful Cinnamon Café. Opened by ChefVivian Lea Doubt, the Cinnamon café offers artisan sandwiches andhand-made pastries using the best of local ingredients. 136 FrontStreet, Penticton. Apex Mountain Resort together with the Naramata Bench

Wineries celebrates their first wine festival, Vertical and Vintages,from March 8th -10th. On March 9th, join the Naramata BenchWineries at the Gun Barrel Saloon for an evening of wine-tastingand small bites. Tix: $35.00+ apexresort.com On March 23rd, BigWhite Ski Resort celebrates the third annual Big Whites event. Sip,swirl and enjoy some of the Okanagan’s best white wines alongsidefood creations from the resort’s restaurants including Kettle ValleySteakhouse, 6 Degrees Bistro, Carver's Restaurant, The Bull-Wheel, Globe Café & Tapas Bar, Santé Bar & Grill and TheBlack Diamond Bar and Grill. Tix. $60.00+ bigwhiteresort.com

Celebrate Easter at one of the Okanagan’s winery restaurants.Wineries open for Easter include: Kelowna - Sunset Organic Bistroat Summerhill Pyramid Winery. West Kelowna - Old VinesRestaurant at Quails Gate Estate Winery. Naramata - The VanillaPod at Poplar Grove Winery and The Bistro at Hillside Winery.Oliver - Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl EstateWinery, Miradoro Restaurant at Tinhorn Creek Winery and Ter-rafina Restaurant at Hester Creek Estate Winery. The Okanaganhotels and B&B’s offer enticing spring rates to make Easter a get awayto wine country.

Rhys Pender, Canada’s Master of Wine is offering the Wine Plus+Boot Camp for the internationally certified Level 2 Award in Wine

and Spirits from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust from April 8th to13th. $1500.00+ package includes six nights hotel accommodation,class instruction including winery excursions and exam. wineplus.ca

Love Oysters? Join Vancouver Island’s local oyster farmers as theytake a vacation in the South Okanagan with the 2nd annual OliverOsoyoos Oyster Festival which runs from April 17th to April 21st.Various events including Canada’s First Oyster Wine Competition:oooysterfestival.com

The Canadian National Slow Food conference will be held inOsoyoos from April 25th to 28th including dinners and Canada’s firstSalone Del Gusto- a “slow-food” artisan market which the public iswelcome to attend. slowfood.ca or www.facebook.com/Slow-FoodThompsonOkanagan

Get ready for spring planting. Seedy Saturday happens inKelowna on Saturday, March 9th at Okanagan College from 10amto 3pm. For Seedy Saturday events across BC visit seeds.ca. SunshineFarms organic and heirloom seeds can also be ordered directlyon-line. sunshinefarm.net —Claire Sear

WordsThaw 2013Canada's premier literary magazine, The Malahat Review, will holdits first-annual spring writing symposium, WordsThaw 2013, onSaturday, March 23. The symposium will consist of three paneldiscussions: "Zoom In, Zoom Out: Focus on Fiction" with JohnGould, Yasuko Thanh, and Daniel Griffin speaking with moderatorAmy Reiswig about relevance in fiction writing; "A SustainableFeast: The New Food Writing" with Rhona McAdam (author ofDigging the City: An Urban Agriculture Manifesto) and PeterLadner (author of The Urban Food Revolution: Changing the Waywe Feed Cities) moderated by CBC columnist Don Genova; and apanel on Writing from Childhood Poverty. The evening willconsist of a literary reading by local poets and fiction writersPamela Porter, Laura Kraemer, Katherin Edwards, BillGaston, Marilyn Bowering, Lorna Crozier, Lee Henderson, andC. P. Boyko.

The symposium will take place at the University of Victoria'sHuman and Social Development Building, room A240 from 10 a.m.until 10 p.m. Tickets can be purchased from The Malahat Review'swebsite. A full pass is $40 regular, $30 for students and Friends ofThe Malahat. All passes include a one-year subscription (orsubscription extention) to The Malahat Review.

www.malahatreview.ca/events/wordsthaw2013.html

CALLING ALL CANADIAN WINERIESWhich Canadian wines pair best with Oysters? Enter Canada’s 1st Oyster Wine Competition April 17-21. Details at www.oooysterfestival.com



What the Pros Know – compiled by Rebecca Baugniet

Geoff Pinch, The Whole Beast Artisan Salumeria, (250) 590-PORK (7675)My favorite sausage is the traditional British blood pudding with pork face, skin, bar-ley and seasoned with lots of pepper and marjoram. We receive our pigs in sides everyother week from Stillmeadow Farm in Metchosin, and this is one of the recipes thatallows us to utilize the more “interesting” parts of the animal. Fry this sausage crispyand have with eggs any style. When I think back to my childhood on the farm, myfavorite sausage meal was a slow roasted garlic coil, sliced over kale and mashed po-tatoes. Occasionally, it was finished with crispy bacon, fried onions, with some baconfat drizzle on the top. Farm food at its finest.

Rebecca Teskey, The Village Butcher, (250) 598-1115It's hard to pick just one - they're all my children! Can I choose two? The chorizo. Thereason it's a go-to for me is that it's so spicy and smoky and garlicky, it's an easy oneto add to just about anything. If I put one chorizo in my chili I know it's going to tasteway better. In soup, it makes a great base, it's awesome on the BBQ, it's good cookedand crumbled up on pizza, it makes an excellent sandwich - it's just a great sausage!The other one that I really like is our Toulouse sausage. It has some pancetta groundinto it, with white wine and spices. It has a lot of interesting flavours in it and meldswell in pasta sauces and risottos. I also love it in a choucroute garnie. All our sausageis made with Tom Henry's pork, with no fillers and we grind all our own spices.

Kate Wallace, Galloping Goose, (250) 474-5788Our business began with one South African with homesick taste buds and anotherperson who loved (loves!) to cook. Boerewors is national fare in SA. After a visit theremany years ago, we came back inspired and began making our own. Boerewors is stilla cornerstone to our business (which now produces over 25 varieties of sausage) andone of our favourites. It is a mix of pork, beef and lamb with aromatic spicing of co-riander and clove. We love it grilled "braai" style with lamb chops and sosaties (akabob made with lamb, onions, apricots and a curried chutney marinade - also madeby us!) Each type of sausage we make is hand spiced according to our own recipes. Forexample, we grind our own Masala. Our products are also low fat, low salt and glutenfree without sacrificing any flavour or texture. We source as close to home as possiblefor our meat and use only fresh additional ingredients. Some herbs even come fromour garden!

Alan Maceiras, Chorizo & Co. (250) 590-6393My first instinct is to say chorizo, seeing as how I work at Chorizo & Co. Deli. How-ever, I would have to say a great choice is Ibérico black sausage. This sausage productis made with fat from Ibérico pork and coagulated blood. It's normally seasoned withsalt, garlic, and paprika as well as other spices and condiments. It has a curing processof approximately two months. It can be eaten raw, fried, roasted, grilled or incasseroles.

For this edition,we asked localbutchers and deliowners what theirfavourite sausageis, what meats areused to make thatkind of sausage,and how they liketo serve it.

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

Butcher’sTalk



Looking for tips on tea & food pairing or how to brew the perfect pot of tea? Need some fabulous tea mocktail or cocktail recipes? Visit our new online magazine at silkroadtea.com - your ultimate resource for tea recipe ideas.

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Andrew Moyer, Ottavio Italian Bakery and Delicatessen, (250) 592-4080In the winter I love to BBQ or roast Galloping Goose Tuscan Sausage (Hertels Pork,whole herbs and spices prepared for each batch, fresh garlic and onions) or SouthernSage Chicken Sausage (Cowichan Bay Chicken, fresh whole spices, garden sage) sliceit up and heat it up with a nice simple tomato sauce, serve over creamy polenta or widenoodle pasta. Jazz it up on the way to the table with a swirl of EV olive oil and somefresh Parmigiano Reggiano or some fresh chopped herbs or your favourite chillies...don't forget a glass of vino with it!

John van der Lieck, Oyama Sausage Co. on Granville Island, (604) 327-7407My favorite sausage is definitely our Smoked Mennonite. It is a deliciously smoked,mildly seasoned uncooked sausage. We use Fraser Valley pork, the most expensivewhite pepper (Muntok), sea salt, cure and mustard seeds. It is slow smoked overnightwith hickory and maple wood. The sausage has a wonderful way of blending into allkinds of dishes. It needs to be cooked to be eaten – sliced in pancakes, or in heartysoups and chowders, whole in cabbage and kale dishes, even in pasta sauces or beandishes. Bon Appétit!

Richard Doyle, Slater’s Meats, (250) 592-0823The Turkey Italian sausage is my personal favourite Slater's sausage. It's made withfree-range turkey meat from Ireland Farms, and we use mainly the breast meat, so it'sfairly lean. We use an Italian spice mix that we make - sweet Italian, not too spicy, soyou can add hot sauce after if you want to give it that bite. I like to cook it up and thenslice it, adding it to pasta sauce instead of making it with ground beef, because it willkeep the sauce lean, without the grease you get from other meats. It adds lots of niceflavours and goes really well with that type of cooking.

Geoff Martin, Slater’s Meats, (250) 592-0823My personal favourite sausage that we make is a Greek sausage. It is made with porkfrom Hertels and beef from High River (Alberta), onions, garlic and leek. It's got alittle bit of spice to it - hot paprika, allspice and a couple of other key ingredients… Itis really packed with flavour. I just like to roast them in the oven for twenty-fiveminutes at 350°F. I serve them with some mashed potatoes and roasted vegetables.

Sharon Grey, Mission Meats, Kelowna (250) 764-7232We have smoked and fresh sausage that we make in store – My favourite smokedsausage is Turkey Farmer Sausage – Randy makes it with all turkey meat, it is gluten freeand ready to eat. My favourite way to eat it is sliced cold with cheese, crackers, andstuffed olives!

2524 estevan ave. | padellaitalianbistro.com | [email protected]

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Cut Like a ChefKELOWNA: Knifewear, specialists in high performance Japanese kitchen knives, offers

Cut Like a Chef classes on Saturday mornings. Learn tips and tricks to improve your knife

skills and dazzle your family and friends. Make kitchen prep work fun and be inspired

to cook more and better. Cost is $60/person and students receive10% off knife

purchases on the day of the class. A knife sharpening by hand class is held on Thursday

evenings. Learn the technique passed down from master Japanese knife sharpeners and

have your knives sharper than they’ve ever been. $60/person and participants receive

10% discount on knives and sharpening supplies on the day of the class. Space is

limited so call ahead to book your spot. knifewear.com 778.478.0331

VICTORIA: Cook Culture offers Knife Skills with Chef Cosmo Meens. Learn to care for

your knife, learn to work safely with your knife, and learn what knives are best for different

jobs. Cosmo will present different cutting techniques that will be incorporated into recipes

he will provide and prepare with you. You will then enjoy the fruits of your labour with

a 3-course meal. Check the website for dates and details. cookculture.com

250.590.8161


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eat magazine - march april 2013

Documents

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