eat magazine jan | feb 2016

®

Smart. Local. Delicious.

JANUARY | FEB

RUARYl 2016 |Issue 20-01 | eatm

agazine.caRESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL

+ COOK LIKE ACHEF

The morning after pancakes

IN DEFENCE OFSAUSAGE

North African spices

NEW YEAR,NEW BREAKFAST

BOWLPower up your

morning

featuring

Savourywinter spinach oatmeal

EAT Magazine Jan_Feb 2016_Victoria_48_Layout 1 12/30/15 2:38 PM

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3www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016

contentSmart. Local. Delicious.

DEPARTMENTS04 FROM THE EDITOR

g Food06 CONCIERGE DESKMonthly calendar of events + festivals

08 Good For YouFoods Trends for 2016

09 Epicure At LargeCashews10 Get FreshSprouts & microgreens

11 Back to BasicsFrench Vinaigrette

13 Food MattersPelotas, polpette, kofti and koftedes

14 Date NightPancakes with apple bourbon compote

g Restaurants16 ReporterAgrius, Pizzeria Prima Strada, DAK

20 Eating Well For LessThe Next, Veneto Tapa Lounge, Thai GreenElephant

g Recipes28 Local KitchenBreakfasts

g Features25 Untraditional Hank’sThe minds of the chefs

32 Exotic SpiceAdding new spice mixes to your cooking

34 Standing Up For SausageIn defence of the link

gWine, Spirits & Beer40 Cocktail of the Month

41 Beer & a Bite

42 Wine + TerroirSangiovese wines

44 Liquid AssetsLarry Arnold’s recommended wines

g Community46 The Buzz: All the news that fit toprint...and then some

Behind The ScenesPastry team a the new Agrius on Yates St., Victoria (from left to right): Rebecca Davis; KimSvenaka; Christian Ziss (head pastry chef); Brian Bradley; Alexis Eldstrom. See page 16

Rebecca W

ellmans


Breakfast reflects the culture we live in. In Italy, Romans stop at cafes for acappuccino and cornetti; the Japanese slurp down bowls of miso soup with a side ofrice, a piece of cooked fish and some pickled vegetables; while in India the day

begins with thin lentil crepes (called dosas), dips and chutneys. Here in Victoria, we love our big, hearty breakfasts and on Sunday mornings, long line-

ups can be seen on Herald and Pandora for brunch. While the egg benny and bacon ‘n eggsaren’t going anywhere anytime soon, the first meal of day might now incorporate foodsfrom other cultures as well as healthy additions such as grains and veggies. Try the Creolebreakfast bowl with heirloom brown rice and spicy red beans at Caffe Fantastico Roasteryor the sprouted chickpea falafel, fried egg, & olives on sweet potato flat bread at Be Love. So don’t skip breakfast; there’s a whole new world of morning meals waiting for you.

On page 28, dig into our take on Breakfast 2016 with a savoury and sweet recipe sure toplease.

� � � � � � � � � � � � � HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS. � � � � � � � � � � �

Brunch Fried Rice at Relish: The egg was perfect.

|Editor’s Note |

Gary Hynes

Take a picture of yourfavourite breakfast orbrunch and share itwith us on Instagramat @eatmagWinner will be announced on the EATwebsite (EATmagazine.ca). Closes Jan 30.

continues all winter longVictoria�s premier farmers market

MossStreetMarket.com

warm and dry in theGarry Oak Room

With your favouritelocal organic farmers

Parking off Thurlow,in the

Sir James Douglasschool parking lot.

IndoorsMSM Winter Market

Nov-Apr, Saturdays, 10-noon

MossSt.Market

A New & Improved Morning

@eatm

ag

WIN BREAKFAST FOR 2


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EATFOUNDER & EDITOR Gary Hynes

PUBLISHER Pacific Island GourmetSPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Colin HynesCONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carolyn Bateman

VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Julie Pegg SENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold

ART DIRECTION Gary HynesCOPY EDITOR Cynthia Annett

REGIONAL REPORTERSTofino | Ucluelet Jen Dart | Victoria Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up IslandKirsten Tyler

CONTRIBUTORSLarry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, Adam Cantor, Cinda Chavich, JohnCrawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, SolKaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Sophie MacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, SimonNattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Kaitlyn Rosenburg, Adrien Sala, SheloraSheldan, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman.

Cover photography by Michael Tourigny.

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced with-

out the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet

Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the

articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right

to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

OUR ETHICAL GUIDING PRINCIPALS1. EAT has advertisers in our magazine and on our website; they are our primary source of income. Our company,

Pacific Island Gourmet, employs a dedicated advertising team responsible for selling ad space in EAT and on

EatMagazine.ca. The EAT editorial team does not accept money or other consideration from companies as a

condition or incentive to write a review or story. All editorial content on EAT is based on the editor’s discretion, not

on the desire of any company, advertiser or PR firm. Occasionally EAT and EatMagazine.ca may publish sponsor

content, which will be labelled.

2. EAT contributors are not allowed to ask for free meals or drinks. Anyone identifying themselves as being on

assignment for EAT will be able to prove their employment.

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Gary HynesSENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Susan Worrall

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Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016

ocean wise™ albacore, citrus tamari v ina ig ret te, nor i , sesame, avocado, micro cilantro, wonton chips.

T U N A S TA C K


JanuaryCOOKING WITH JULIA CHILD (Victoria)Julia Child is everyone’s favourite chef, a culinary force to be reckoned with, and the FirstLady of French cuisine. From coq au vin, to crepes suzette and everything in between,Julia Child is the legendary dame that demystified French cooking. Join the LondonChef for an Evening With Julia Child where they will celebrate all things Julia. Jan 6.6-9pm $95. (thelondonchef.com)

SAANICH SEEDY SATURDAY (Saanich)Twenty local vendors will be present at the Horticulture Centre of the Pacific offeringpesticide-free seeds, plant starts and food items. Don Genova will be speaking at 11amand 1pm. Admission ($5) includes admission to the Horticulture Centre's gorgeouswinter garden. Snacks and coffee from Level Ground Trading will be available forpurchase. There will be a Safe Seed Pledge form, a community swap table and a children'stable. Jan 9. 10am-2pm. (seeds.ca)

11th ANNUAL VICTORIA WHISKY FESTIVAL (Victoria)Once again, the Hotel Grand Pacific is hosting the popular four-day Whisky celebration.Events include masterclasses and tastings such as the Whisky wander: a Spirited Journeythrough the Past Century, with Alwynne Gwilt (“Miss Whisky”) and The LaphroaigDistillery Masterclass with Simon Brooking. Jan. 14-17. (victoriawhiskyfestival.com)

14th DINE OUT VANCOUVER FESTIVAL (Vancouver)Celebrate the fourteenth anniversary of Canada’s largest restaurant festival. From Jan 15-31, eat your way through 17 days of culinary events. Hundreds of restaurants will beoffering three-course prix-fixe dinners. (BC VQA wine pairings available at additionalcost). Restaurant menus will be revealed and reservations open on Jan 6.(dineoutvancouver.com)

OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL (Portland &Yamhill, Eugene, Oregon)Created to celebrate the magnificent Oregon truffles as they reach the peak of ripenessin their native soil, it is the first festival of its kind in North America, dedicated tosharing the experience of the chefs, foragers and fans of Oregon's wild truffles, fromtheir hidden source in the forest to their glory on the table. This year the festival will beheld in two locations; The Joriad Truffle Dog Championship will take place in EugeneJan 16-17, the festival in Newberg and Yamhill Jan 22-24 and in Eugene Jan 29-31.(oregontrufflefestival.com)

24th ANNUAL HAGGIS EXTRAVAGANZA (Nanaimo)McLean's Specialty Foods will be hosting their 24th Annual Haggis Extravaganza inJanuary, serving a special haggis lunch on Jan 23 and again on Burns' day, Jan 25.Reservations recommended. There will also be featured Scottish biscuits and goodiesand a piper will be on hand to alert the neighbours. (mcleansfoods.com/)

CCF-VICTORIA BRANCH’S 50th ANNIVERSARY (Victoria)Join the Canadian Culinary Federation – Victoria Branch for a celebration of 50 years ofculinary excellence. Jan 25 5:30PM. Tickets $125 per person. For those travelling fromoutside Victoria, the Hotel Grand Pacific is offering a special rate of $119 per night (Jan.24-Jan. 26). Business formal attire. (ccfccvictoria.ca/events)

TASTE BC 2016 (Vancouver)The Annual Taste BC will be an experience of BC’s finest wine, beer and spiritsaccompanied by tasty fare from some of Vancouver’s best local restaurants. All Taste BC’sproceeds benefit one of the province’s most vital medical institutions, the BC Children’sHospital. Jan. 28, 4.30-7.30 pm. (tastebc.wordpress.com)

KIWANIS ALEFEST (Prince George)Kiwanis AleFest 2016 marks the second annual craft beer festival in Northern BritishColumbia. With a mixture of the finest craft breweries, some of the community’s finestrestaurants, incredible visual arts, and soul grabbing musical talents on their ColdsnapWinter Music Festival stage, this event won’t disappoint. The event takes place at the TwoRivers Gallery. This completely volunteer run event is hosted by Kiwanis Prince George,as a winter social and community fundraiser for children’s charities and projects. Jan 29-30. (kiwanisalefest.ca)

CONCIERGE

6 EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016

By Rebecca Baugniet

BALANCE: CREATIVITY, QUALITY

& EXECUTION.

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sta � � �

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Now accep ng reserva ons

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FebruarySEEDY SATURDAY (Victoria)These events are the premier networking and educational event for gardeners of allabilities. With rising food prices over the past year (9%), it is all the more importantto consider growing one’s own food. Urban food farming, superfoods, containergrowing, mushrooms, soils, greenhouse growing are topics for the 2016 event. Hostedby the James Bay Market Society. Feb 20 at the Victoria Conference Centre, from 10am– 4 pm (Victoria, BC) (seeds.ca)

VICTORIA FILM FESTIVAL (Victoria)The 21st Annual VFF will take place Feb. 5-14. This festival always includes a goodselection of food flicks, and two food films - Foodies and Sergio Herman: Fucking Perfect.Two Sips’n’Cinema this year are wine-themed at Ten Acres and cocktail-themed at theChurchill. (victoriafilmfestival.com)

MARDI GRAS AT THE MARKET (Victoria) Pick out your outfit and put on your mask – Mardi Gras at the Market will be acarnival of exceptional surprises and is sure to be one event you won’t want to miss!Feb 13 from 7-11pm, the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson will play host to aMardi Gras celebration complete with live bands, carnival performers, festive decor,New Orleans-inspired cocktails and dishes prepared by Roast. Presented by AtomiqueProductions and Roast. Tickets $45, available at Roast, The Atomique Shop, Lyle’s Placeor online at Ticketfly.com.

WINTER SALADS AND BRAISED MEATS CLASS (Victoria)Keeping a healthy diet through winter can be a challenge, unless you have taken thisclass. Offered by chef Michael Williams at Cook Culture, this class will focus on greatwinter salads and dressings that can be made in batches ahead of time, as well assimple and delicious slow cooked meats, which can be made the day before or on theweekend. Feb 15, 6pm. $85. (cookculture.com)

PARKSVILLE UNCORKED (Parksville)Some of Parksville's finest beach resorts have come together once again to feature thevery best wines & gourmet foods from throughout British Columbia. This festival,held at various locations throughout Parksville, offers something for everyone.Whether you are a novice or an experienced wine lover, enjoy tastings, seminars,featured wine dinners, bubbly brunches and wine-inspired spa treatments. Last year'sfestival was a sell-out, so book early to avoid disappointment. Feb 18-21.(parksvilleuncorked.com)

DINE AROUND AND STAY IN TOWN (Victoria)Tourism Victoria and the BC Restaurant and Food Services Association’s 11th AnnualDine Around and Stay in Town will take place from Feb 19-Mar 6. Participatingrestaurants will offer three-course menus for $20, $30, $40 CND per person and are allpaired with BC VQA wine suggestions. This year select restaurants will once againoffer celiac-friendly menus. (tourismvictoria.com/dine)

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL (Vancouver)One of the world's premiere wine festivals, this event, held at various locationsthroughout Vancouver, is a unique opportunity to learn about and enjoy some of theworld's finest wines. The event features wine tastings and pairings, gourmet dinnersand luncheons, educational seminars and culinary competitions. Feb 20–28.(vanwinefest.ca)

UP AHEAD:CULINAIRE (Victoria)The fifth annual Culinaire event will be held at the Crystal Garden on March 24 thisyear. This event provides locals with the opportunity to savour signature menu itemsand inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes,specialty purveyors, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wine, cider,and craft beer. Partial proceeds provide scholarship awards to the Camosun CollegeCulinary Arts Program and a donation is made each year to the BC HospitalityFoundation. (culinairevictoria.com)



g GOOD FOR YOU By Pam Durkin

Fare FashionsFoods to watch for in 2016. Fashion runways aren’t the only places you can spot trends—you can also seethem at the supermarket. And just like their clothing counterparts, food trends areeither fleeting, or enduring. Here are my picks for the top healthy AND delicious foodtrends people will be buzzing, and blogging about, in 2016—and beyond.

New-wave chipsKale chips are so last year. And to be honest—could they ever really be described asdelicious? Thankfully, there’s a new crew of innovative and tasty chips poised to takeover star billing in the chip aisle. Beets, carrots, parsnips and even Brussels sprouts arebeing turned into divinely crispy snacks for health-conscious consumers seeking thataddictive “crunch.” B.C.’s own Hardbite is right at the forefront of this trend, turningout some of the best veggie chips around. According to T. Frey-Durston manager of theCook St Lifestyle Markets, Hardbite’s new line is beginning to “fly out the door.”Another welcome addition to this trend is the fruit chip—often referred to as a “Snap.”These new fruit chips have serious crunch, are low in calories, salt-free and scrump-tious. Try a bag of sweet and crunchy “Pineapple Snapz”—I promise, you’ll forget allabout kale chips.

Coconut butterWhile coconut oil has been popular for a while, coconut butter is a relative newcomeron the food scene. Don’t confuse the two; there are major differences between them.Coconut oil is simply the oil extracted from coconut meat whereas coconut butter isthe whole meat of the coconut, pureed into a creamy butter. Coconut butter containsall the healthy, medium-chain fats of coconut oil plus significant amounts of fibre,iron, magnesium and potassium. In plain English—it’s much more nutrient-densethan its fattier cousin. Furthermore, it’s far more delicious and versatile. Thoughcoconut oil is great for frying, it’s not something you’d want to eat straight from thejar or slather on a sweet potato. With coconut butter, you can do both and more—itscreamy taste and texture shines as the star ingredient in baked goods, atop steamedveggies and grains, in spreads, soups and curries. This versatility, along with the but-ter’s delightful taste and universal appeal, will undoubtedly make it as popular as itsoily relative. (Try Burnaby’s own Everland Organic Coconut Butter.)

Game charcuterieI’ll have the bison pepperoni pizza, please. That statement, though unusual, is beingheard with more frequency at trendy brewpubs and restaurants across North America.Though the roots of charcuterie have a strong emphasis on pork, modern implemen-tations using game meats like bison, venison and elk are becoming increasinglypopular—for good reason. Game meats aren’t just lower in saturated fat than theirindustrially raised pork and beef counterparts, they’re also more nutrient-dense anduntainted by hormones and antibiotics. That’s music to the ears of health-consciousfoodies and devoted carnivores alike, who will undoubtedly fuel this emerging trend.Get hip to it yourself by trying some of Island Bison’s delicious bison bacon, pepper-oni or pastrami.

Persian foodThanks to superstar chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi, Marcus Samuelsson and B.C.’s ownHamid Salimian—who all sing its praises—Persian cuisine is finally stepping into theculinary spotlight. Their praise is not unwarranted. Persian cuisine is aromatic,delicious and über-healthy. It incorporates elements of Indian, Greek, Arabic andTurkish cooking and is loaded with disease-fighting vegetables, herbs, nuts, seeds andfreshly ground spices. In addition, many of its key ingredients, such as pomegranates,walnuts, pistachios, barberries, prunes, yogurt and turmeric, are the very foods healthexperts have dubbed “superfoods.” Another plus—Persian cuisine is mostly gluten-free—so it’s amenable to all types of diets. Not surprisingly, the cuisine is being show-cased at some of the best restaurants in the world with increasing frequency. This is atrend with “legs” and one that will be welcomed by anyone fortunate enough to havesampled Hamid Salimian’s sublime Persian tasting menu when he was executive chefat Vancouver’s Diva at the Met. See our article on Spice on page 32. E


Six decades or so ago, when I was a boy, I lived for Christmas. It was about the loot.Not that I was spoiled: my parents were what we call the working poor nowadays. Neverdid get the electric train my brother and I coveted. But every December 25, with uttercertainty, I knew I had a pound, a whole pound, of top-of-the-line Laura Secord cashewnuts in my future. And I wasn’t planning to share.In those days, for a nut nut like me (and every other Ferguson male before me), the

cashew was the Cadillac of nuts, out of our financial snack bracket but elegant with itscrescent-moon contour and rich, buttery flavour, heaven with a soft crunch. I consumedthem one at a time, and, with luck, they lasted into mid-January.Yet I knew little about them. As far as I was concerned, they originated in the box. It

was years later, on the Caribbean island of Grenada, one of many tropical climates wherethe cashew tree thrives, that I discovered it is not a nut at all but the seed of the cashewapple, a yellow, bell-shaped fruit whose flavour combines mango and citrus notes.Unfortunately, it bruises too easily to travel and won’t be showing up at Thrifty Food’s. The “nut” emerges from the bottom of the fruit. Catch is, it comes encased in a

double shell that contains urushiol, a nasty toxin (also found in poison ivy) that causesskin rash on contact and whose consumption can be lethal. This explains why thecashew often appears on those ten-most-toxic food lists. In some countries, the fruit iseaten and the seed prudently tossed out. The toxin, thankfully, is eliminated in the roast-ing process. Accordingly, raw cashews are not recommended.The nut, or rather seed, originated in northern Brazil and travelled easily. Vietnam is

the world’s largest producer, while others include India, Indonesia, the Ivory Coast andNigeria, a near $2 billion industry worldwide. There are more than 20 grades of cashewsout there. The best are usually the priciest. Those from bulk stores are likely todisappoint. Costco sources them from south India and they’re first-rate.

On my first journey to south India, I got very excited about cashew soup. But the soupcapitalized only on the inherent blandness of the cashew and left me growling. On theother hand, a call to room service at my hotel brought a sari-clad server and a plate ofwarm, freshly roasted cashews. Which left me feeling like an itinerant maharajah. The cashew weighs in as a serious supporting actor in cuisine, providing crunch and

creamy texture in salads, stir fries, curries and rice dishes. Cashews blended with butter,salt and pepper make for a butter ideally drizzled over grilled fish. A cashew-lentil burgercourts vegetarians. Cashew cheese, a meld of cashews, water, salt, pepper and lemonjuice, is a vegan staple, a dairy-free alternative to cheese.Historically, the cashew has proven a bit of a dullard. Except, maybe, for the true story

of a man who ate his hearing aids mistaking them for cashews. (Presumably, they did-n’t taste quite right, but he could hear from some unusual places.) The cashew news is all about skyrocketing prices. Crop failure is diminishing supply—

climate change is taking its toll—while demand is soaring among the newly affluent.Indians are now the world’s largest consumers and China’s billowing middle class hasalso discovered the cashew.

So if you can afford them, get ’em while you can. At home, we use cashews in lieu ofultra-pricey pine nuts for pesto. And we’re fond of stir-frying cashews in olive oil,garlic, cumin and chilies. The spicy ones, oh yes. Next Christmas morning, I’ll hope fora pound under the tree, to be savoured one at a time, with a tumbler of Johnnie Black.

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 9

For nut nuts, the rich, buttery flavour and soft crunch of thecashew (it’s actually a seed) is irresistible.

g EPICURE AT LARGE By Jeremy Ferguson

E

Cashews in a Nutshell

Cashew fruit

www.newsociety.com

The Planet Friendly Diet

Cat Smiley

Mastering Basic Cheesemaking

Gianaclis Caldwell

Craft Distilling

Victoria Redhed Miller

The Ethical Meat Handbook

Meredith Leigh

Follow us on Facebook & Twitter, visit our website www.newsociety.com or call 800-567-6772

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Imagine having an array of mega-nutritiousvegetables at your fingertips, all winter long, forpennies a day. Fulfilling that fantasy is simple

when you grow sprouts and microgreens. Sprouts areone of the most concentrated sources of vitamins,minerals, enzymes, amino acids, protein and fiber.Some microgreens have up to forty times as manynutrients as their full-grown veggie counterparts.Microgreens and sprouts with intense, vibrantcolours are the most nutritious.Sprouts and microgreens can be grown from

almost any bean (e.g. adzuki, garbanzo), lentil, pea,grain (buckwheat, amaranth), herb, vegetable(cabbage, fennel, beets), seed (flax, sunflower,caraway, fenugreek) or greens (arugula, mustard).Organic sprouting seeds are available fromWestCoastSeeds.com, Mumm’s (Sprouting.com), DigThis, Gardenworks and other local nurseries. Redcabbage and green daikon microgreens are notablyhigh in vitamin C, vitamin K and vitamin E. Cilantromicrogreens are high in lutein and beta-carotene.Sprouts and microgreens are different in many

ways. Slender sprouts are germinated seeds grownwithout sunshine or soil. They are ready to eat in lessthan a week. Soaked seeds are rinsed and drainedthree times a day until sprouts develop. They can begrown in a sprouting device (e.g. West Coast Seeds’Biosta or Sprout Master), a reusable hemp bag(SproutMan.com), which prevents mold by provid-ing air circulation, or in a glass jar topped with ascreen, inverted at an angle. If you don’t wish togrown your own, Courtenay’s organic EatmoreSprouts and Greens are available throughout BC.Microgreens are grown from soaked seeds planted

in moist sterilized potting soil, or in coco coir, arenewable peat alternative. Coco coir produced byLake Cowichan’s Reindeer’s Natural Plant Foods isavailable at most Vancouver Island nurseries. A flatwith drainage holes placed inside a solid tray is theonly necessary equipment. Microgreens need lightand warmth. A grow light, a plastic lid, and a heatpad will accelerate growth. The leaves and stems ofmost microgreens can be snipped and eaten withintwo weeks of planting. The superb taste of raw microgreens shines in

pesto, green smoothies, salads, wraps, tacos, sand-wiches and rice paper spring rolls. Bean sprouts addcrunch to Pad Thai, Moo Shu pancakes and egg rolls.Soup up slurps of Pho with bean sprouts, basil,chilies and limes. Sprouted bread, made withsprouted wheat berries, spelt, barley, millet, greenlentils and pinto beans, is nutrient-rich and highlydigestible.


Handmade

Ethical

Local

Traditional

C U R E D A N D S M O K E D M E A T S2 0 3 2 O A K B AY A V E N U E , V I C T O R I A 2 5 0 . 5 9 0 . P O R K

THEWHOLEBEAST.CA [email protected]

E

Sprouts & Microgreens

g GET FRESH By Sylvia Weinstock

Spicy Thai Lamb Salad with BeanSprouts and Pea ShootsServes 4

2 red chiles4 garlic cloves, crushed1-inch of peeled gingerroot,roughly chopped2 Tbsp light brown sugar6 Tbsp soy sauce4 Tbsp fish sauce10 ½ oz cooked lamb, thicklysliced½ English cucumber, thinlysliced3 ½ oz fresh peas, blanched3 ½ oz sugar snap peas, slicedlengthwise3 oz bean sprouts6 green onions, sliced 3 Tbsp fresh mint, roughlychopped½ cup cilantro sprigsJuice of 2 limes1 oz pea shoots

Chop one chile. In a foodprocessor, blend chile, garlic,ginger and sugar into a paste.Blend in soy and fish sauces tomake a dressing. Finely dice thesecond chile and set aside.In a sauté pan over medium

heat, sauté lamb 2-3 minutes untilcrisp. Add half the dressing andcook until lamb is coated and hot.Remove from heat.In a bowl, combine all herbs

and vegetables except for peashoots. Toss with most of theremaining dressing. Drizzle withlime juice, add pea shoots andtoss.Place salad, topped with lamb,

on four plates. Drizzle with the re-maining dressing, and sprinkle withfinely diced chillies.


E

g BACK TO BASICS By Rebecca Baugniet

2 tsp red wine vinegar

½ tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp sea salt

6-8 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Cracked pepper to taste

2 tsp finely chopped shallot (optional)

Place all ingredients in a mason jar. Make sure lidis on securely, then give the jar a good shake, untilvinaigrette has emulsified. Dress salad lightly tobegin. It is easy enough to add more if necessary.Leftover vinaigrette will keep in the fridge for upto one month. Bring to room temperature and shake again

before using.

Basic French Vinaigrette Recipe

SALAD IS, WITHOUT QUESTION, AN ALL-SEASON FOOD. It comes in so many

incarnations, and in such a wide range of ingredients, that it is possible to find one to

suit any meal, at any time of year. However, there do appear to be two times of year

when salad comes to the forefront of culinary conversations—in summer, when there

is so much tempting produce readily available, and again in the new year, when

people have had their fill of rich foods and are looking to rediscover fresh, raw

vegetables.

Growing up in what I would call a British expat culinary tradition, I was exposed to

a limited number of salad options, the most appealing of which appeared at summer

barbecues. My mother would slice garden tomatoes, drizzle them with some vegetable

oil, sprinkle them with a little sugar and top with a generous handful of fresh chopped

herbs. Her other go-to was a sliced cucumber salad, tossed in a runny yogurt dressing.

My father would take care of the potato salad, always garnished with hard-boiled egg

wedges and a dusting of paprika. Those were our three summer salads, and they were

good. Winter, on the other hand, knew only one salad and it came served in a

shallow wooden bowl: a pile of rather sad-looking iceberg lettuce, and nothing else.

Beside the bowl would sit the jar of Hellmann’s mayonnaise. I remember trying, on

one or two occasions, to try to toss the iceberg chunks with the Helmann’s, but it was

no use. There would always be unappealing globs of mayo tucked among the leaves.

The first time I tasted French vinaigrette, I was working as a nanny for a young

family in Old Montreal. The husband and wife were both musicians in the orchestra

and would invite me to eat dinner with them before they set off for their evening

concerts at the Place des Arts. (This was an excellent perk as the husband had learned

to cook while working in Italy and would serve pasta dishes that rivalled any authen-

tic Italian restaurants.) One evening, after the pasta was served, a bowl of greens

appeared on the table. This was not the iceberg salad of my childhood, oh no. Each

leaf in the bowl glistened with a light coating of dressing, and when I took a bite, I was

amazed. I could not believe salad could taste this good. Vinaigrette is a classic exam-

ple of how some foods are so much more than the sum of its parts. Vinegar, mustard,

salt, oil—on their own, these ingredients are mostly one dimensional. But when you

put them together, they sing: the tang of the mustard and the vinegar, mellowed by

the buttery olive oil enhanced by salt. This magical concoction makes it easy to eat

your greens.

This simple recipe, which takes all of three minutes to make, has long been a staple

in our house. It will work with any and all salad greens, but also shines when tossed

with steamed leeks, or poured over a plate of French lentils with roasted beets and

feta. Best of all, it works all year long.

French Vinaigrette Greens come alive when tossed with this classicsalad dressing.



g FOOD MATTERS By Julie Pegg

WHEN IT COMES TO SATISFYING FARE, THE HUMBLE MEATBALL RANKS RIGHTup there. It comforts the soul on a blustery day and is gentle on the January budget.Global variations on this meaty orb vary widely. A thumb through 22 cookbooksyielded at least 60 recipes for meatballs from around the world. There were tinySwedish knobs made from pork and beef bobbing in sour cream sauce laced with dilland parsley. There were Spanish “pelotas” (more familiar to most folk, I think, asalbondigas) in a savoury bath that welcomes a good pinch of saffron. I found oblong-shaped lamb and beef kofti and keftedes from Turkey and Greece respectively, andLebanese lamb and bulgur kibbeh patties, Mediterranean delicacies that may be spikedwith any or all of cinnamon, cumin and pine nuts. Quebec meatball stew is a simplepotage of mustard- and clove-flecked beef and pork balls simmered in gravy. Meatballsbecome fish balls in the Maritimes. Fresh cod or soaked dry cod (to desalinate the fish)is flaked into mashed spuds, fashioned into balls, dipped in egg and fried in a goodlyamount of fat. Whatever their provenance, many meatball recipes rely on whatever meat, herbs or

seasonings the cook has around. Common to all, though, is parsley, onion, egg andbread, or breadcrumbs, moistened with either milk or water.Then there is the all-American spaghetti with meatballs. In Italy, meatballs (polpette) are smallish, sometimes tomato sauced but seldom

plopped on spaghetti. Rather they are served as a main dish. Italian cookbook mavenMarcella Hazan’s suggestions for sides are braised cabbage, fritto misto (lightly batteredfried vegetables) or sautéed peas and prosciutto. Italian-American (and Canadian) immigrants, not surprisingly, locked on to price-

wise canned tomatoes and dried spaghetti and took advantage of the availability of anaffordable cut of beef suitable for grinding. Large, dense, meaty balls started poppingup on top of “marinara” sauced noodles. The meat and pasta concoction appearednot just at home but on the red-and-white checked cloths of “Italian” restaurantsacross America. (Remember that candle stuffed into an emptied Chianti bottleadorning the table?) The dish soon became a culinary icon for not only Italian-

Round the WorldPelotas, polpette, kofti, keftedes—every culture hasits favourite meatball.

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BC Restaurant Group Opens in Toronto

Americans but Anglos as well.Not for my father, though, at least not initially. Being English in a largely

Canadian/Italian community, my father chose rissoles over the morepopular spaghetti and meatballs. My mother fashioned and lightly flattenedballs of whatever “mince” was on hand. Sometimes she used chopped left-over roast beef or pork. But mostly she used ground beef. Breaded and lightlyfried, the crisp, juicy meatballs came with mash, carrots, peas and gravy. Iliked them too. Every so often, though, succumbing to the smells waftingover the fence, I managed to wangle a seat in our Italian neighbour’s kitchenfor a feed of spaghetti and meatballs. It wasn’t long before dad did too. Buthe never tired of his rissoles.Berlin is where I developed a crush on German meatballs—mounds of

juicy pork, beef (and sometimes veal) vibrantly seasoned with nutmeg orallspice, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, lemon juice and that “hmmm”flavour! What is that other ingredient? It’s herring paste, but I substituteanchovy paste. Occasionally sauerkraut joins the melee. These meaty,savoury, salty, cue-ball-sized rounds are perfect chilly-weather comfort andgo by several monikers, most notably frikadellen, which is also the Danishterm. In Berlin, meatballs are called bouletten from boulette, the French wordfor little ball. Königsberger klopse are meatballs in a creamy caper sauce.Braised red cabbage, buttered noodles or potatoes are the usual add-ons. Ora fried egg gets perched atop. Sometimes the meatballs are served hamburgerstyle with German potato salad. For me, it all works.Lean pockets and blustery days beg for settling in and whipping up a batch

of whatever meatballs suit your fancy. (If you can grind your own meat, thepayback in texture and flavour is significant. I am lucky to have inherited mydad’s meat grinder). I draw the line, however, at Chinatown meatballs, acurious concoction of chopped beef, chow mein noodles, soy sauce andginger that I found in a cookbook from 1963. Likewise, the stuffing ofGerman meatballs with feta. Now, that’s just silly. E

W harf Street Production’s Health, Wellness, and Sustainability Festival keeps growing.Now in its third year and scheduled for the Victoria Conference Centre from 10 a.m. to4 p.m. Saturday, February 27, this "melting pot of healthy living options" showcases

gluten-free food, acupuncture, massage therapy, herbal medicine, health-minded cosmetics andskin care, fitness, and much more.Last year's attendance grew by 30% and with the number of vendors' booths up from 43 to

69 and the number of sponsors and partners like Pacific Rim College, Studio Robazzo, and theOswego Hotel almost doubling. This year's event promises to be bigger and better.Victoria mayor Lisa Helps will again provide the welcoming address to a festival featuring an

educative, all-day Speakers Stage. All speakers will have TEDx coaching (TEDxVictoria is anotherpartner) and will not be selling from the stage.Studio Robazzo's design for the trade show space also includes an interactive Food Science

Fair Exhibit that last year's main speaker and author of the bestseller The Art of Fermentation,Sandor Katz called "the highlight of the festival for me. The tactile engagement made themamong the very best food demonstrations I've seen anywhere, in museums, universities, schools,conferences or other festivals."The festival has also created an interactive web site that allows visitors to connect and interact

with vendors, sponsors, and speakers at www.healthandwellnessfestival.ca. The site also includesan informative 90-second video introduction to the festival.This year's main speaker is Jo Robinson, author of Eating on the Wild Side. Her book explains

how to choose, store, and prepare dozens of fruit and vegetables and how to get maximumnutritional value from the fresh produce."Only Michael Pollan would come close to her superbly researched work," enthused

television journalist and producer, Bill Kurtis. Robinson's book is a guide to finding lostnutrients with simple measures like choosing nutrition-rich, smaller tomatoes, eating beet greensover beet roots, and cooking carrots instead of eating them raw. The Vashon Island-based writeris also a serious advocate of backyard gardening and raising animals on pasture.Robinson's featured talk is scheduled for 7 p.m. Saturday, February 27 after the day's festival.

Tickets for the talk are $22 ($15 for early bird tickets from the web site before February 12), and$15 for students and seniors.Tickets for the all-day event from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. are $7 ($5 for early bird tickets before

February 12) and $5 for students and seniors. There is also a special festival and feature talkpackage ticket for $25 ($15 for early bird tickets) and $20 for students and seniors. Call250-686-6821 or write [email protected] for more information.Another festival partner, Robbins Parking, is offering all-day parking at the Victoria

Conference Centre: 720 Douglas St. for $4 (regularly $16) and $5 at their lot at 118 Kingston St."The festival is about education and empowerment," explained festival director Ari Hershberg,

"focusing on good food, finding the right health practitioner, and the right type of fitness foryou. Health is for everybody, and our goal is to reach all age groups. We're really reaching outto students this year. Next year's focus will be our senior population. I was raised in a family anda community around healthy eating and sustainable food systems,” Hershberg continued. "Iwant to help create a community that's truly cooperative." —By Joseph Blake

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

THE HEALTH, WELLNESS &SUSTAINABILITY FESTIVAL

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Rocked by the success of their recentlyopened Toronto flagship location, the

Cactus Club rolled out six of the menu’shighlights on the west coast. Owned by Richard Jaffrey, the Cactus

Club has grown in leaps and bounds sinceopening 28 years ago, with a celebratedtwenty-nine locations across BC and intoAlberta. Iron Chef Rob Feenie joined theranks in 2008, elevating the menu with hismany of his signature dishes, 28 of whichare showcased throughout their locations,including Victoria.The highlighted new dishes range from

seafood to salad, duck to beef to pasta andreflect Toronto’s appetite. The tuna stackis a refreshing start of oceanwise Albacore

Cactus Club’s Iron Chef Rob Feenie Unveils New Menu

and avocado in a citrus tamarivinaigrette with nori and sesameand wonton crisps for transport-ing the harmonious medley toits destination (available com-pany-wide). Heartier dishes – enjoyed only

at Vancouver’s Ash Street andCoal Harbours locations – areworth the trip for pappardellewrapped around slow-braisedveal cheeks in a porcini mush-room cream, or the duck confitover braised lentils with smokedbacon and soy-truffle vinaigrettewith a flourish of baby friseesalad for counterbalance to therichness. Super sommelier hire,Sebastian Le Goff adds hisexpertise to the wine andcocktail program at the Cactus,and with stunning contempo-rary art throughout all thelocations, including a Basquiatin Victoria, the Cactus Clubprovides a feast for all the senses.(cactusclubcafe.com)

—S. Sheldan

Duck confit over braised lentils



g DATE NIGHT By Adrien Sala

Any normal person will tell you it’s ridiculous to assume there are any guaranteeswhen it comes to dating. You could have had the best night ever and still wake up alone—and that’s totally OK. It’s a long game, not a race toward some arbitrary finish line. Youshould feel good about a great night and the prospect of another date some other time,not worried about being “successful.” That said, you may eventually find yourself with company in the morning. The first few

times it happens with someone is usually pretty awkward, which is only made worse ifyou’re unprepared. Being ready for morning company doesn’t mean you need to have allthe ingredients on hand to make a breakfast soufflé. There’s no need to spring up out ofbed and start milling wheat for fresh biscuits. Still, you should have at least a few optionson hand. It shows you’re organized, an adult, able to take care of yourself (at least alittle). Before we go too far into an easy breakfast recipe, I think a simple PSA would be

valuable. While I was doing research for my books The Cooking To Get Laid Guides, I askedabout the prospect of breakfast the morning after. Almost without fail they said that whilethey loved the idea of breakfast and were unlikely to feel uncomfortable the next day, theywere also pretty likely to want to just get up and get going. It’s just something thathappens. Maybe it’s a chance to process the night before, or maybe they have somethingelse already planned. But obligating someone to stick around by making breakfast with-out asking first is a bit of a fail. Coffee is one thing, but anytime you turn on an appliance,you’re wading into entirely different territory. So always ask first. It’s not hard. And itshows you’re considering the other person. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, there are a few things that are great to have on

hand just in case. Coffee and tea are big ones, plus things you might not always put inthem yourself, like honey or almond milk. Fresh fruit is great (you appear to eat well andit’s delicious). Simple things like yogurt and almonds can go a long way also, especiallywith that fruit. Throwing things into a bowl is easy and non-threatening in terms of aperson’s escape plan, like eggs for a simple scramble. Hell, even some decent cereal cansuffice (if you’re really into Fruit Loops, though, admit it—be yourself—you might be

The Morning AfterThe importance of (not always) making breakfast.


E

Simple Pancakes with Apple Bourbon Compote

APPLE BOURBON COMPOTE:2 apples diced into small squares(peeling optional)1/8 tsp nutmeg1/8 tsp cinnamon¼ cup brown sugar½ Tbsp unsalted butter¼ cup bourbonPinch of sea salt

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan overmedium-low heat, stirring regularly until the sugarhas dissolved and the apples have softened(around 20 minutes). When the compote is a nicegolden colour, remove and set aside to use on thepancakes.

PANCAKES:2 eggs1½ cup milk1 tsp vanilla 2 cups flour2 Tbsp baking powder

¼ cup granulated white sugarCanola oil for fryingPinch of cinnamon

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan overmedium-low heat, stirring regularly until the sugarhas dissolved and the apples have softened(around 20 minutes). When the compote is a nicegolden colour, remove and set aside to use on thepancakes.Whisk eggs, milk and vanilla together in a bowl.

Sift flour into a different large bowl and mix insugar and baking powder, then make a well in thecentre and pour in the egg, milk and vanilla mix-ture. Whisk until smooth.Warm oven to 175°f. Heat a skillet on medium

heat and add a touch of oil. When the oil is shim-mering, pour 1/3 cup of your batter into the panand fry until bubbles can be seen forming through-out the pancake. Flip over using a spatula and fryuntil golden brown on both sides. Repeat until bat-ter is done (keep pancakes in warm oven whileyou make the rest). Serve with a dollop of Apple Bourbon Compote

and some whipped cream if you’ve got it (and cof-fee on the side).

OUR LATEST DIRECT TRADE OFFERING HAS ARRIVED: EL SALVADOR | ORANGE BOURBON NATURAL

FINCA SIBERIA, APANECA-LLAMATEPEC

more charming than you think). Basically what you’re trying to do with breakfast is be casual. You’ve had a great

evening and now that it’s morning, you can (hopefully) relax. The casualness of ithelps the other person relax too. So do that. Be cool. Don’t stress out over things, andif your date decides to leave, just smile and say thanks for a great night. Now, for that recipe that can be made after you’ve asked whether your date would

like to stay for food ...

g RECIPE BOX By Gary Hynes

This is an old winter classic from Italy that really shines using our fine local pork. I prefer a

bone-in shoulder. When testing this recipe I used Sloping Hill Farm (Qualicum Bay)

naturally raised pork which is available through Two Rivers Meats at various locations.

Pork Shoulder Roastbraised in milk withgarlic, lemon & freshherbs.

2.5 kg (5 lbs.) naturally-raised, bone-in,trimmed pork shoulder4 cups of organic, homogenized milk,warmed but not boiled.2 Tb. minced garlic2 Tb fresh lemon juice2 5” x ¾” strips of lemon peel, scrape offthe white pith with a paring knife4 whole onions, peeled3 large springs of fresh sage3 large springs of fresh rosemary3 large springs of fresh thyme2 bay leaves3 cloves6-8 whole peppercorns½ cup crisp, unoaked white wine Sea salt to taste

• Preheat the oven to 325 °F. • While the oven is reaching temperature, brownthe pork in a splash of olive oil in a large fryingpan until all sides are a lovely mahogany colour. • Transfer the pork to a big Dutch oven or acasserole pot. • Add the milk, garlic, lemon juice, lemon peel,onions, herbs, cloves and peppercorns. Coverand braise in the oven for approximately 2-3hours or until tender.• When the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender,remove from the pot, slice and place on a largeplatter with the whole onions. Strain the gravy,season it with salt and pepper, and drizzle it overthe pork. Garnish with lemon wedges and servewith your favourite veg. I like green beans andcrispy oven French fries.



Rebecca Wellm

an

REPORTERRESTAURANTS | CAFES | SHOPPING

Photography by Rebecca Wellman


Fol Epi, artisanal baker Cliff Leir’s bakery at Dockside Green, has been in the vanguard of

Victoria’s acclaimed local, organic food scene since opening in 2009. With silos for Red Fife

wheat storage and his own stone grinder supplying flour for the bakery’s wood-fired oven, Leir

began looking for a second, downtown location to bake pastries last year. By the end of 2015,

he’d opened the second Fol Epi in the newly built Era Building on Yates Street, a space that

includes a 36-seat restaurant called Agrius at the back of the airy, high-ceilinged room.

I met Leir and the restaurant’s executive chef Cam Picyk shortly after Agrius opened. Both men

had been working long hours for weeks, but their shared passion for the new project was

palpable.

“Fol Epi needed more space, and this location came up. We have 16 seats in the bakery in

addition to the restaurant’s bar and tables, and we’ll have 20 more seats on the patio this

summer. I wanted to create a place where people could enjoy a nice dessert at night down-

town,” Leir explained.

“Cam was driving the bakery’s delivery truck and cooking a series of pop-up dinners featur-

ing wild and local ingredients with attention to detail very similar to my own. I hired him to lead

the kitchen, and the restaurant is now serving lunch and dinner and a weekend brunch.”

“I wanted to create a casual, community meeting place any time of day,” chef Picyk added.

“And I wanted to continue producing meals that feature high-quality local ingredients.”

Picyk grew up in Victoria, then moved to Alberta to attend Lethbridge College to play base-

ball and follow his other passion, cooking. After a baseball season in Arizona, Picyk joined Rob

Feenie’s award-winning staff at Lumiére, then Marque in Sidney, Australia, and several European

restaurants before returning to Victoria three years ago.

“When I started working with Cliff, I couldn’t believe a restaurant could be this organic. More

than 90 percent of our ingredients are organic meats, dairy products, fruits and vegetables, even

corn starch, salt, spices and cooking oil. Cliff even uses chlorine-free, filtered water. The Fol Epi

standards and Michelin Star-attention to detail are inspiring. I’m learning all the time, and so are

my young chefs.”

“They carried three whole pigs and a lamb down the alley into the kitchen this week. We want

our chefs to waste as little as possible, right down to using the bones for soup,” Leir added.

“We’ve got a huge processing space behind the kitchen where we produce charcuterie, can

vegetables and fruit, make fruit syrups and fermented products. My roots are half Ukrainian,”

Picyk continued, “so I love fermented and pickled produce. My cooking is product-driven

contemporary west coast. Simple, not show-offy.”

“Our menu changes daily. Today for mains we’re offering Confit Parry Bay Lamb Shoulder,

Yarrow Meadows Duck Breast with Preserved Apricot and Duck Liver Sauce, Ling Cod in a Cod

Bone Reduction, Salt Spring Island Mussels, Blue Goose Organic Beef Tartare, Poached Sturgeon,

and Smoked Sablefish plus a handful of local vegetable side dishes that I’m really excited about.”

The zinc-topped, eight-seat bar has a well-curated list of wine and beer, plus some playfully

named cocktail specials like The Trudeau Effect made from El Pisco Gobernador, hyssop, licorice,

vanilla syrup, lime juice and Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters. The lunch menu’s soups,

salads, sandwiches, cheese and charcuterie boards are wonderful too.

Agrius offers everything from weekend brunch and casual lunches to stellar dinners and classy

nightcaps. It’s a great, new place right downtown. BY JOSEPH BLAKE


E

733 Yates Street | 778-265-6312 | folepi.ca

Fol Epi Yates/Agrius Restaurant

FACING PAGE PHOTOS

clockwise from the top:

1) Agrius kitchen staff (left to right): Ben Anderson- General Manager, Cam Picyk – Executive Chef,Cliff Leir – owner, Sam Harris – chef de partie.2) Server Alyssa Geddes with charcuterie madewith Still Meadows pork. 3) Poached Northern Divine Sturgeon, fennel,black radish, orange. 4) Head Bartender – Adam Bonneau.

above: The bakery counter at Fol Epi Yates Street.right: One of the meat curing rooms seen throughthe window from the dining room



Rebecca Wellm

anE

Pizzeria Prima Strada 1990 Fort St., Victoria | 250-590-8599 | pizzeriaprimastrada.com

left: Salsiccia e rapini housemade fennel sausage, chili soffritto braised rapini, fresh mozzarella, parmigiano. middle: Carpaccio beef tenderloin, radish, parsley, parmigiano, caper vinaigrette.right: The interior of the new Prima Strada on Fort St., Victoria.

It’s been eight years since Cristen DeCarolis Dallas and Geoffrey Dallas opened a cozy pizzeria inCook St. Village, and the popularity of their Pizzeria Prima Strada’s Neapolitan wood-fired pies show nosigns of abating. That success quickly spurred a spacious Bridge Street location in the Rock Bay neigh-bourhood, becoming not only a much-needed central commissary to keep pace—currently 720 balls ofpizza dough rolled by hand per day!—but another dining facility and room to stretch their ideas. And now,their third 70-seat location, in the Jubilee/Oak Bay neighbourhood, has confirmed that PPS is here to stay. “We’re all about the neighbourhood,” says DeCarolis Dallas, “somewhere you can walk to.” After a few

short weeks of opening, they’ve already seen a lot of walking traffic and people discovering them for thefirst time.At the heart of the new space with its blond wood countertops, vintage campari posters and tasteful

contemporary lighting, is a gorgeous black and shiny Stefano Ferrara oven, a 6,000-pound fire-breathingbehemoth set at a diabolical 850 degrees, able to cook a pizza in two to three minutes. Diners can choosefrom ringside oven-viewing seats, those along the bar, elevated café seats overlooking the room, or tableseating tucked away from the hustle and bustle for a more intimate setting.Prima Strada is all about the pizza, and the menu remains rooted in its Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN)

status. This means they use San Marzano tomatoes, Caputo 00 flour and fresh mozzarella for pizzas madeby hand and cooked in a Neopolitan-style wood-fired oven. The chefs, or more accurately the pizzaioli,are also VPN-trained and certified. The menu is all wrapped up in an alluring package of antipasti, pizzaand desserts, with terrific new additions inspired from an intensive week-long staff trip to Naples, themotherland.

These include a delicate carpaccio of beef tenderloin highlighted by radishes, parsley and a capervinaigrette, and a substantial polenta dish of two pieces sandwiching a stewy blend of roasted eggplant,peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, mozzarella and capers, cooked in the forno. The new pizzas include aQuattro Stagione of housemade sausage, peppers, anchovies, olives, mushrooms and onion; and anoutstanding Salsiccia e Rapini of fennel-flecked house sausage along with soffrito and chili-braised rapini(my new favourite). Discover also a folded calzone stuffed with a classic capricciosa of ham, olives,artichoke hearts, ricotta and mushrooms, as well as a Roman-style pie with rosemary-roasted potatoes andbalsamic-roasted radicchio with three cheeses, including gorgonzola dolce. The strength of the kitchen continues to shine with their made-in-house program that includes not only their

pizza dough and tomato sauce but sausages, cured pancetta, ham and salumi, meatballs, biscotti, spongecake for tiramisu and, most recently, gelato and sorbetto.On the beverage side, find flavoured housemade syrups for sodas. The Oak Bay location boasts an

exciting cocktail program in the works overseen by Brant Porter, plus more craft brew on tap. Summer will bring a 30-seat patio for al fresco dining, and if you’re driving, they have secured under-

ground parking spaces for their customers with additional ground level spaces behind the buildingavailable after 5 p.m. So whether you walk, cycle or drive, welcome Pizzeria Prima Strada to the neighbourhood.

BY SHELORA SHELDAN



Dak838 Fort St., Victoria | dakrotisserie.com

left: Roasted mushrooms, avocado, fried egg, kimchi, Sriracha and crispy onions topped witha sesame seed and kim sprinkle. right: Owners Jon Perkins and Melissa Perkins.

Rebecca Wellm

an

Jon and Melissa Perkins are teaching the language of food, Korean-style, through their newestventure, Dak. Inspired by the dishes they enjoyed during a two-year stint teaching English in Korea, andspurred on by the success of their Victoria coffee and light lunch spots Picnic and Picnic Too, theysettled on a simple menu for breakfast and lunch, with rotisserie chicken in the afternoon. (Dak meanschicken in Korean.)Housed in the lobby of a Fort Street office building recently made over for tech startups, Dak’s warm

red walls are offset by blond wood counter seating: eight along the window and 14 along a communaleating bar. Both make great perches for people-watching and for views into the office space that boastsan actual (stationary) helicopter! The menu, served from a compact kitchen hidden from view by a living wall, starts the morning with

three styles of congee, that comforting Asian rice porridge. They are numbered 1, 2 and 3 with theircorresponding Korean equivalent, hana, dool and set. I chose set, served with a medley of roastedmushrooms, avocado, fried egg, kimchi—that wonderful fermented cabbage—sriracha and crispy onionsand finished with a sprinkling of roasted dried seaweed (kim) and sesame seeds. Congee, traditionallymade with white rice, sees a combination of brown and purple rice in Dak’s version, along with chiaseeds for a superfood hit. Served in a deep bowl, it offers a wonderful nourishing arrangement oftextures, colours and flavours, is beyond filling and a great value. The other a.m. offering is a popularbreakfast sandwich featuring a moreish bacon seasoned with signature brown sugar and red pepperpaste (gochu) stuffed into a toasted sesame brioche bun with a fried egg, kimchi mayonnaise, avocadoand green onions.By the lunch hour, roasting chickens marinated in sesame oil, ginger, garlic, soy and brown sugar, and

brushed with gochu, fill the air with luscious aromas. The moist meat finds a happy home in the Daksandwich with gochu paste, pickled cucumber, avocado and greens, or in the Bop (steamed purplerice) bowl with kimchi, greens, onion pesto, roasted dried seaweed and sesame. Other treats include acustom beer-braised frankfurter made by next-door neighbor Choux and served in a classic squishy hotdog bun with aged cheddar, kimchi and crispy onions; a spicy pork fried rice and shredded vegetableburrito in a whole wheat tortilla; and a healthful salad of snow peas, beans, bean sprouts and avocadotossed in the house tahini-gochu dressing. Baked goods are made onsite and include a daily scone, gluten-free peanut cookies and granola, well

matched with local 2% Jazz coffee, a mainstay of both Picnics.Down the road, the Perkinses plan on opening for the dinner hour to further feature the rotisserie

chickens, along with a liquor license featuring soju, a Korean spirit made from distilled fermented rice,and a craft beer selection. For those in a hurry a grab-and-go cooler with drinks, sandwiches and rice-based snacks will keep hunger and thirst at bay. All in all, it’s a language easily understood. BY SHELORA SHELDAN

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For Reservations call 250-381-3456 | 309 Belleville Street, Victoria, BC

Huntingdonmanor.com | TheGatsbyMansion

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food + wine


I’m hard-pressed to name a favourite dish atThe Next, where French-trained chef TakashiHiraoka blends French and Japanese techniquesin his Japanese fusion restaurant. A few classicsyou’ll see in any Japanese restaurant: the salmonand tuna rolls, the chicken karaage. Stilltraditionally Japanese, yet a little different, is the“contemporary” miso soup for $3. The broth ismade without bonito, the dried tuna normallyused to flavour the stock. Instead, chef Hiraokauses dried kelp, and the result is very tasty. Thefusion artistry starts a bit farther down the sushipage, with the Roast Garlic and Ahi Tuna Roll for$10.Chef is careful to roast the garlic into nutty

sweetness so it accents rather than overpowersthe tuna. French-style onion jam inspired him toreduce red onion pickles the same way; theseprovide tang in the tuna roll. Sake-Ahi Tuna Rollis equally inspired. Delicately draped atop theroll is an intriguing sweet and tart sauce madeby mixing goat cheese with sake paste (themilder-tasting product left over from makingsake). On the French side of the cuisine spectrum is

the French Seafood Gratin for $13 on thespecials board. However, some Japanese peeksthrough. This gratin is on a bed of rice, notpotato, and the seafood-cream medley isseasoned with gratings of the skin of the Japan-ese yuzu fruit. Finally, here’s a trick for parentsand other early eaters: the happy hour menugoes from 2:00 to 5:30 p.m. Slip in at 5 p.m. andget 20 percent off the sushi rolls. If you getJunior the pretty yam tempura roll, at 20 percentoff that’s $5.20. And dinner is done.


g EATING WELL FOR LESS By Elizabeth Monk

French Fusion, CreativeCocktails and a Thai place inEsquimalt

Elizabeth Nyland

#104-240 Cook St., storefront on Sutlej | 778-433-4490The Next

-

OMC.ARITOCIREVUL 2

The Next - left:Mackerel Aburi Sushi right:Marinated Sablefish with Sake-paste, crispy rice andvegetables (with pepper on top)

Cont’d next page

Elizabeth Nyland

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Chef TakashiHiraoka

Listen to Elizabeth talk about these restaurants on Tuesday, Jan 12 at 8:10 am on KoolFM radio (107.3 FM).


Cont’d next page

Some days I like to swan into a sexy lounge like Veneto, toss off a beautifully lined businessjacket (from consignment, but whatever) and enjoy a creative cocktail featuring intriguing mixes likeginger beer, balsamic and Scotch in my Cara Cara Caramel. Who doesn’t?! During Veneto’s 4 p.m. to6 p.m. “Unwinder,” this experience comes with several tapa items for half price, which can easily becobbled together to make an early meal. The Thai Coconut Curry Mussels leap to mind; suddenly theyare down to $8 from $16. And you get a mound of mussels—I counted around 20—topped with top-notchcrispy frites. Grilled Mixed Vegetables, a generous oval dish of grilled broccolini, eggplant, babytomatoes and charred peppers, decorated with ribbons of balsamic reduction, gets reduced to $6. ButI’m not going to lie to you. I’m not exactly a stylin’ martini-drinkin’ girl about town. Every Monday,hellish Monday, I am in full frenzied sports-mum mode, trailing my kid plus carpoolers en route toVictoria Gymnastics for the very unpalatable time slot of 5:15 to 7:15 p.m. But now, a grace note. I canbring the gang to the Hotel Rialto at 4:00 p.m. and get the tapa prices. We can’t be housed in thelounge, but we can be placed in the pleasant sister restaurant, Café Veneto, and get the tapa menu.Which brings me to the final menu item: sliders for $2! Elegant sliders like braised short rib with marsalamushrooms and horseradish aioli, in a pretzel bun! Sorry for all the exclamation marks, but being ableto feed a child for $2 or $4 while I enjoy some mussels is a big lifestyle upgrade for me. This is notVeneto’s normal modus operandi this time of day so, as a courtesy, phone ahead so they can set a tablefor you.

Elizabeth Nyland


1450 Douglas St. near Pandora | 250-383-7310

Veneto Tapa Lounge

top: Bartender Caledonia Wright creating a bourbon sour. left: Crispy pork belly &pan seared chili-basil scallops with soy maple glaze. right: Thai coconut currymussels and frites with fresh cilantro and Sriracha aioli.

OLO is a farm-to-table restaurant with a focus on local, sustainably raised ingredients, complemented by an

impressive beverage list and perfectly mixed cocktails.

Sunday to Thursday 5pm – 11pmFriday and Saturday 5pm – 12am

509 Fisgard Street, Victoria, BC(250) 590-8795 | www.olorestaurant.com

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ON POINT.

250 598 8555 | www.marinarestaurant.com1327 BEACH DRIVE AT THE OAK BAY MARINA

Classic Cuisine. 100% Ocean Wise.



250-590-45564136 WILKINSON RD

WWW.CROOKEDGOOSEBISTRO.CA

250-383-1545CORNER OF CROFT & SIMCOE IN JAMES BAY

WWW.HERONROCKBISTRO.CA

Happy Hour 7 Nights 8pm to Close

Lunch, Dinner, Local Beer & Wine

Heron Rock Bistro9AM-10PM Monday to Friday8:30AM-10PM Saturday & Sunday

Open 7 Days 11am -11pm10pm on Sunday to WednesdayWeekend 9am for Brunch

HAPPY HOUR7 Days 2:3--5:30pm

Here’s a vital question to ask when ordering

at Asian restaurants in Victoria: What do your

Asian customers choose? I posed this question

recently at Thai Green Elephant in Esquimalt and

got to try some fun food as a result. Between them,

owners Praneet and Sathit Chumeechai have

worked in Thai restaurants here, in Wales, in the

Marriott in Bangkok, and even in a small restau-

rant in their own home in Thailand. A little piece of

their hotel background was evident in the Crab

Rangoon appetizer for $6.95. These crispy deep-

fried wontons with a soft interior of cream cheese

and crab are the kind of appy you might get at an

elegant reception. The soup, called Tom Kah, is

not seen in all Thai restaurants here. Unlike the

sour Tom Yum, Tom Kah has a creamy coconut milk

base that eases into just a finishing hint of tart

tamarind. The version with prawns is $10.95, and

you could order it with noodles to make it a one-

dish meal. On the dinner menu for $12.95, Pad

Krapa is an intensely flavourful pork and green

bean stir-fry redolent of garlic and chilies. Ask for

it “Thai style”—ground as opposed to sliced meat.

Moving on to dishes favoured by loyal clients in

general, the Kao Pad Pong Karee, or Satay Fried

Rice, is a lot of food for $11.95 with its mound of

bright yellow curried rice. The accompanying

chicken satay skewers come with two sauces: a

peanut sauce for sensations of cream and salt; and

a cucumber relish for sensations of sweet and sour.

The ultimate deal is on the lunch menu. For

$10.99, I had a crispy spring roll, a choice of Tom

Yum soup or salad, and a silky red curry with

chicken and bamboo shoots. Generously included

is a Thai iced coffee or iced tea. I confess with

wistfulness that there was one authentic Thai dish

that got away from me. Apparently, Thais favour

item #16, Pu Pla Ra, a pickled crab and anchovy

salad. This is time-consuming to prepare so should

be ordered in advance. I was told I wouldn’t like

it anyway because I’m not Thai, but this has merely

solidified my desire to phone ahead next time.

Elizabeth Nyland

809 Craigflower Rd. | 778-433-7172Thai Green Elephant Restaurant

left: Kao Pad Pong Karee with chicken satay with peanut dipping sauce. right:Owners Praneetand Sathit and daughter Chawanluck Chumeechai. bottom: Crab rangoon with carrot rose.

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Un-traditionalHank’s

The day starts early for Hank’s chefs Andrew Mavorand Clark Deutscher. At 8:30, the two meet inDeutscher’s apartment, one floor above Mavor’s. Avariety of often random cookbooks and culinaryhistory texts are pulled out and coffee is brewed.The scene is set for what will eventually become the

next dish at Hank’s Untraditional BBQ, one of the many to be addedto the long list scrawled in chicken scratch on spare bits of butcher’spaper that now serve as the in-house menu. Notes fly, ideas ricochetoff the walls, the insane and impossible are heatedly justified, shotdown, reformulated, then often tossed in the garbage. Eventually,after hours of exhaustive research, potentially a fistfight, and asoftening of egos, the two madmen settle on an idea they can workwith. One they can call their own. And one that will becomeanother remarkable example of the extraordinary meals coming outof the Hank’s tiny, open kitchen. Then the pots and pans come outand the process is repeated, only this time the stakes are high as fireand hot oil are added to the chaotic mix.Why the intense process day in and day out? Well, it could have

something to do with the fact that these guys have almost noculinary background. Deutscher was in finance; Mavor was a globe-trotting electronic music producer and DJ; and Frank Pilon,co-owner of both Hank’s in Ucluelet and Victoria, was best knownfor his restaurant Driftwood, which literally blew up in an electricalfire in 2012. There was dabbling in the past—line cooking, front-of-house jobs, ad hoc restaurants run out of cafés and ardent homecooking—but nothing that really pointed towards a bright futureon the restaurant scene. Experimentation, failure, disaster and, finally, success from the

ashes seem to be reoccurring themes for the crew at Hank’s. WhenHank’s in Ucluelet took off, Deutscher decided it was time for amove to Victoria. They opted for one of the many dead zones onDouglas Street, a location that has served as a site for fast failure formany a small business. This was in keeping with the tradition ofthrowing pretty much all caution to the wind, and it has workedwith remarkable success. With the restaurant’s modest stretch of barfor single seating and a couple of small window-facing countertops,finding a spare seat becomes a game of strategy. When asked if theywould ever move into a larger location, Deutscher and Mavor replywith wry smirks: “No.”(cont’d on next page)

The restaurant may be departingfrom barbecue, but the slightly unhinged drive towards uncharted territory has garneredan enthusiastic cult following. Words by Jill Van GynPhotography by Rebecca Wellman

Owners/chefsAndrew Mavorand ClarkDeutscher.


If you are a regular at Hank’s, you are not going forthe barbecue. At the mere mention of barbecue, thechefs’ upper lips curl in what can only be describedas a mix of distain and regret. It’s not that theydon’t like barbecue, they like it just fine and haveeven managed to scrape together a few awards at

local competitions. Yes, Hank’s Untraditional BBQ stillserves barbecue—for now. But the chefs simply don’t wantto be confined by that heavy, borderline fundamentalisttradition that comes along with true barbecue. As such,they have broken free of the hold of barbecue and are nowdetermined to run amok, answering to nothing but theirown creative impulses and to no one but the dedicatedpatrons who return again and again for a chance toparticipate in their adventures.So, what is Hank’s if it’s not barbecue? It’s a food lab

disguised as a hole-in-the-wall restaurant. The test kitchenis in the apartments of Deutscher and Mavor, the experi-ments are given life in the cramped bypass behind Hank’sbar, and all of us are test subjects. Deutscher and Mavordon’t just focus on the cooking. They are heavily involvedwith the animals they procure. For example, when afriend, Étienne Côté, bought a small Courtney-based farm(Hillcrest), they put up the money for the animals theywanted raised. They visited their animals, named theiranimals, played with their animals, and then led theiranimals to slaughter. They break down the pigs, lambs,and turkeys in house and set about designing uses forevery part imaginable. The menu is a clear demonstrationof this, with new specials and last-minute creations addeddaily. On any given day, you might find turkey ravioli

with porcini cream and toasted sunflower seeds; orginger-ale-braised lamb neck with fried rice and beanstopped with an egg; it could be Waygu beef short ribpastrami with creamed cabbage and dried Okanagancherries; or, if you are really lucky, a whole roasted pig’shead for two. But it’s not all about the meat. It’sincreasingly an exploration of cultural heritages thatinfluence the preparation of dishes. They have recentlyexperimented with Philippine-style turkey adobos,Mexican tamales and fat-fried tar salsa, Italian-style milkand honey ribs, Newfoundland touton (pancakes fried inpork fat) and, currently fermenting in a cool, dark closet,chickpea miso.When you go to Hank’s, and you should immediately,

take some time to appreciate what is happening in frontof you. We’ve all had a fantastic dish or two in Victoria,but these those dishes are created almost exclusivelybehind closed doors. The plating, cooking, never-endingprep, dishwashing and bartending at Hank’s all play outin a tiny stretch of space as patrons watch from the bar.You might have the chance to see an entire turkey cut andcarved fresh from the smoker. A pungent scent hits yournose—it’s a slow brewing sauce in progress for a new dish.Want to know what that spice is? Where that cut of meatcame from? What that basket of apples is for? Just ask.When you go, order the weirdest thing on the menu.Something you’ve never tried. And tell them that. Watchas they negotiate the tight space and each other, nevermissing a beat as they move specifically and tenderly tocreate your dish. Watch them jump to with enthusiasmand borderline maniacal glee as they take on your

challenge. And after a few minutes, after you’ve had achance to let what you are eating really sink in, wait forthe check in. Not that tired line fed to you by boredservers: ‘How are those first few bites tasting?’ No. Theywill ask, “So. How is it?” because they truly want to knowwhat you think.Hank’s may be departing from barbecue, but the slightly

unhinged drive towards uncharted territory has garneredan enthusiastic cult following. Experimentation, failureand hard-won successes in the kitchen are the fuel behindthis new direction. Back at the apartments of Deutscherand Mavor, you are likely to find fois gras duck breastcarpaccio hanging in a linen closet, fermenting habanerosand green tomatoes stashed in a corner, and on the stovesome homemade tortillas frying in beef tallow. Recentlythey have taken on knife making with “go-to opinionguy” and one of Hank’s first customers, jewellery makerDevon Revell. So often the food we eat is overly curated, backed by

years of experience in hardened tradition and technique.Hank’s is a restaurant built on inexperience, haphazardideas and a love of discovery. The boys at Hank’s arefollowing a very flimsy scientific process of research,experimentation, creation and testing that has produceddizzyingly good food with an equally good story behindit.1001 Douglas St., Victoria 778.433.4770


Food clockwise: lamb shank, pickled mustard seedand red cabbage; duck hearts on duck liver pate;house turkey (they raise their own) lasagne; duckconfit; pork tongue meatball on beef cheekcarbonara; gingerale braised lamb neck, pickledlemon, cilantro sauce.

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“It’s a food lab disguised as a hole-in-the-wall restaurant.”

Owners/chefs Clark Deutscher (with baseball hat) and Andrew Mavor in the Hank’s open kitchen



LOCAL KITCHENg

Savoury Winter Spinach Oatmeal

• Toast oats before cooking to layer in nutty flavour.• Infuse milk with fresh herbs.• Be daring! Mix in other grains like wheat berries, millet or freekeh.



BREAKFAST 2.0

good morning. the breakfast revolution is served.

To face the new year, or just winter, head on, you’re gonna need a

breakfast that powers up. Both of these recipes feature oats, a traditional

breakfast staple. Satisfying oaty porridge is still on the menu, just with a

savoury makeover. Dark green veggies have replaced traditional fruit and,

of course, there’s an egg on it now. Crisps are traditionally considered

desserts, but you just may want to eat this one for breakfast. The fruity

oatiness and cinnamon labneh cries out for a cup of morning coffee.

Heck! This stuff is good anytime of the day, or night.

Recipe on the following page

Text, recipes by JENNIFER DANTERFood styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES



Salted Maple Apple Crisp with Cinnamon Labneh



Savoury Winter Spinach OatmealThe key to wicked savoury oats is the blending of different flavoursand textures. Sounds like a lot of work, but if you prep ahead andmake big batches, then the morning is really about assembling orreheating. Live large and double the recipe. This stuff keeps at leasta week in your fridge.Serves 4

1 cup steel-cut oats3 cups good chicken broth1 cup cooked red or black quinoa1 cup Spinach Pesto (recipe below)4 soft boiled or poached eggs1 avocado, sliced

Dry toast oats in a large deep skillet or saucepan set over medium heat. Stir often

until fragrant and toasty, about 2 min. Stir in broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat

to medium. Partially cover and simmer, stirring often until liquid has been absorbed.

You want it a little soupy. Fold in quinoa and Spinach Pesto. Spoon into bowls and top

with eggs and avocado. Dollop with Frothy Sage Milk (see below) if you wish.

Salted Maple Apple Crisp with Cinnamon LabnehThis is what would happen if granola met an apple over breakfast and they fell in love.

Apples

4 Granny Smith apples, halved, cored11/2 Tbsp each maple syrup and olive oilCoarse sea salt, to taste

Crisp

½ cup rolled oats¼ cup peptias (shelled green pumpkin seeds)¼ cup chopped walnuts¼ cup dried cranberries2 tsp each hemp and flax seedsPinches of sea salt [TIP try smoked salt]2 Tbsp each maple syrup and brown sugar1 Tbsp olive oil1 cup Cinnamon Labneh (recipe below)

Arrange oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven, then preheat to 375°F. Place

apples, cut-side up, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Mix together 11/2

Tbsp each maple syrup and olive oil, then brush over apples. Roast on upper rack until

soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with sea salt.

While apples are roasting, on another baking sheet lined with parchment paper, mix

oats, pepitas, walnuts, cranberries, hemp, flax and a pinch of salt with 2 Tbsp each

maple syrup and brown sugar, and 1 Tbsp olive oil. Roast on lower rack, stirring

occasionally, until toasty, 10-15 min. let cool, then break into smaller pieces.

To serve, spread Cinnamon Labneh on bottom of bowls, top with warm apple and

then crumble oat mixture overtop.

Frothy Sage Milk Serves 4

In a saucepan, gently heat about 1 cup 2% milk with a handful of fresh sage, thyme,tarragon or rosemary sprigs until warm. Let cool to room temperature, thenrefrigerate overnight. Discard sprigs, then pour cold milk into a Mason jar. Fill jarhallway full so there’s room to make foam. Screw on lid, then shake the bejeezus outof the jar so the milk is frothy and doubled in volume. (Or just use a milk frother.)Remove lid and microwave on high for 30 seconds. Pour warm milk over oatmeal,and then spoon the foamy bit on top.

Cinnamon LabnehMake the labneh a day before serving so it thickens and the flavoursblend. Look for Saigon cinnamon—its spicy, strong and sweet flavouris seriously addictive.Makes about 2 cups

650 g container plain, full fat Greek yogurt1 Tbsp ground cinnamon2 strips orange or mandarin peelLarge square of cheesecloth

Stir yogurt with cinnamon and orange peels. Spoon into cheesecloth, then tie up intoa ball. Tie ball to a wooden spoon, and then suspend spoon over a bowl to let thewhey drain out. Refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight. The longer it sits, the thickerthe texture and tarter the taste. Keeps well, refrigerated, up to one week.

Spinach PestoMakes about 2 cups

2 big bunches fresh spinach or kale leaves, stemmed, washed and coarselychopped, about 8 cups1/4 cup toasted pine nuts¼ cup toasted almonds1-2 garlic cloves, minced1 lemon¼ cup olive oil¼ cup grated pecorinoSea salt, to taste

Place nuts in a food processor and pulse to finely chop. Working in batches, addhandfuls of spinach and pulse until well chopped. Add garlic. Grate in 1 tsp zest fromlemon, then squeeze in juice. With motor running, gradually add oil and whirl untilsmooth. If needed, add a little water. Turn into a bowl and stir in cheese. Taste and addsalt.



Exotic Flavours

The books of Yotam Ottolenghi can add new spice mixes and ingredients to your cooking arsenal.

By Shelora Sheldan

You don’t come across many cookbooks thatbecome a trusted friend, one you can return toat any occasion, be it to perk up the dinnerdoldrums or inspire you to try new ingredients.

The popular cookbooks by U.K.-based Yotam Ottolenghifit the bill on both counts. My new kitchen pal has written a series of books that

weave together ingredients and techniques from theMiddle East, the Mediterranean and North Africa withmany modern and inventive flourishes. Lavishlyillustrated with colour photography and accessiblerecipes, two of his books, Plenty and Plenty More, aredevoted solely to vegetarian and grain cookery withsurprising combination s of vegetables and herbs. Thesalads are revelatory. For example, a verdant dish of freshdill tangled with tarragon, basil, cilantro and watercressmeets toasted pistachios for crunch and an aromatic,citrusy dressing of olive oil, lemon and orange flowerwater. Another favourite is a warm salad of radicchio withPuy lentils combined with an abundance of herbs,pecorino cheese and candied walnuts with warmingsubtle hits of chile and honey. It makes a stunning andhearty first course. Two other books, Jerusalem andOttolenghi, add fish and meat to the mix with surprisingmarinades and relishes.As well as increasing my vegetable and whole grain

intake, Ottolenghi has added new spice mixes and ingre-dients to my cooking arsenal. Things like new-to-mesumac, za’atar, barberries and ras el hanout not only adddepth to dishes featuring eggplant, olives, tomatoes,yogurt and even good old hummus and pita, but are greatadditions, I’m discovering, to both savoury meat- and veg-etable-based dishes. They’ve all been easy to procure in

shops where culinary adventures await. And I’m seeingOttolenghi’s Middle Eastern influences making inroadson many menus in Victoria. Below, I’ve compiled a handy guide to some of my new

favourite things, what they are and how to use them, withhighlights from Victoria chefs who are adding bright,punchy new flavours for our eating enjoyment. Hopefully,it will kickstart your new year with delicious curiosity andinspiration. Who knows, you might even make a newfriend in the kitchen.

THE GOODS

Harissa A roasted red pepper paste with a subtle chileheat. Its versatility weaves perky magic into couscousstews, both vegetable and meat-based, especiallymarinades for lamb. Mixed with mayonnaise or thickyogurt (labneh in the Middle East), it becomes a deliciousdipping sauce, sandwich spread with roasted eggplant andfeta or smeared on warm flatbreads with olive oil. It’s soldin small tins or squeeze tubes, the latter being handy fortimid first-timers. Chef Dave Craggs of Ferris’ makes atextured and punchier-flavoured version by addingpreserved lemons, smoked paprika and sambal to theroasted red pepper base, along with a signature Moroccanspice blend. It’s served with chermoula-marinated chickenskewers on the Perro Negro tapas menu alongside mintedyogurt, and in the downstairs menu in a lamb burger andin a lablabi, a comforting Tunisian chickpea soup. Asmuch fun to eat as it is to pronounce, lablabi is a multi-faceted soul-satisfying dish that layers in kale, rice, chick-peas, tomatoes, caperberries and preserved lemons withyogurt and a big hit of harissa.

Pomegranate molasses A concentrated fruity elixirthat adds depth and richness with sweet and sharp notes.Used sparingly, it’s wonderful in marinades, vinaigrettesand dips as a substitute for honey or balsamic vinegar. AtFig Deli, owner Yaseer Youssef uses it in a moreish groundwalnut spread for sweetness and tang.

Barberries Little red jewels, likened to cranberries ortangy lemon currants in flavour profile. I’ve added themto lamb dishes and in an Ottolenghi dish with chickenand caramelized onions. I’ve enjoyed them recently atPart and Parcel in a delightful smoked white chocolateand barberry cookie. I’m just starting to get acquaintedwith them.

Sumac A burgundy-coloured ground berry adding tart,fruity flavours and bright acidity to foods. At home, I’vediscovered them delicious sprinkled over braised greensor on wild salmon. At Earls Kitchen + Bar, their JerusalemSalad takes its cues from the classic fattoush, theLevantine version of panzanella, the Italian bread salad.Crispy pita is tossed with arugula, tomatoes, crunchycucumbers and radishes, and topped with za'atar-spiced-chicken and a thick full-flavoured yogurt sauce, made byroasting the sumac with garlic and adding preservedlemons. At Fig Deli, sumac is added to grated halloumiand mozzarella cheese on the Manoushi, a made-to-orderLebanese flatbread, a brilliant combination of tangy-salty-creamy. Grant Gard of Part and Parcel adds sumac as a tartfinishing touch to house-made falafel with hummus andpreserved lemon yogurt, a dish he makes as a tribute tothe ubiquitous falafel stands of Toronto, his hometown.

Freekeh An aromatic roasted and cracked green wheatthat looks like a green bulgur. Like bulgur, you can use it



in pilafs, soups, stews or a tabouli salad. I can attest totheir success. Ottolenghi makes an incredible salad withgreen beans, freekeh and a tahini dressing redolent withmint and lemon juice.

Ras el hanout An earthy aromatic blend of 12 or moreingredients that, like a curry blend, changes from makerto maker. Commonly used ingredients are cardamom,cumin, clove and cinnamon, coriander, chile andpeppercorn. One I purchased emphasized cinnamon,cumin, turmeric and allspice on the nose, while anotherwas strong on fenugreek, chile and ginger as well as beingrife with rose petals. Janice Mansfield of Real Food MadeEasy catering includes foraged rose petals in her freshblend of warming spices, which she adds to ground porkwith cranberry for her gluten-free sausage rolls. “Ras elhanout is easy on the palate,” she notes. “It goes with somany things, so many proteins, from pork to chicken to

turkey, and it’s soft enough to go with vegetables.” It adds warmth and depth to the lowly french fry at Partand Parcel, with harissa mayo for dipping, and is right athome in the smoked lamb sausage from The Whole Beast.

Za’atar A savoury blend of sesame seeds, ground thyme,oregano, marjoram and often sumac, with a slightlygrainy texture. It is a wonderful addition to sausages ormeat patties. Mixed with olive oil and feta, it also makesa wonderful dip for grilled flatbreads. And there are anexciting array available, from sangak to lavash to barbari,similar to focaccia. I like to sprinkle it over rice—it’s a nicechange from soy sauce! Mansfield uses her sumac-forwardversion in pot pies and suggests using the spice blend theway one would use Herbes de Provence. That nugget ofwisdom freed my imagination to experiment, withvarious degrees of success: it was amazing on roastedsquash and merely passable on tofu.

Shakshouka Not an ingredient, but a dish that deservesmention. A chunky tomato sauce warmed by toastedground cumin makes the perfect nest for poached eggs. Atraditional Tunisian dish, it’s easy to make at home orenjoyed at breakfast at Estevan Café, and at ShirleyDelicious.

Where to Buy Ingredients to Get You Started

Fig Deli, 1551 Cedar Hill X Rd., 250-727-3632

Blair Mart, 924 Pandora St., 250- 721-1626

Anar Foods, 3949 Quadra St., 250-590-6020

Alia Halal Meat & Deli, 2618 Quadra St., 250-361-1200

Seven Valleys, 2506 Douglas St., 250-383-9998

Rebecca Wellm

an

Grant Gard of Part and Parcel adds sumac as a tart finishing touch to house-made falafel with hummus and preserved lemon yogurt. Also shown: Fries in Ras el Hanout with harissa mayo.



Standing Up For Sausage

WORDS BY BY CINDA CHAVICHPHOTOS BY SHERRI MARTIN

“The recent news that cured meatscontain carcinogens is troubling, but Iam standing up for sausage.”Cont’d on the next page.

The Roost Farm Bakery Riser: Two Island farm eggs any style,choice of toasted fresh bakedbread, 3 links farm sausage &home fries



any of my favourite dishes, fromclassic cassoulet to choucroute,Cajun gumbo to couscous withmerguez, start with good qualityartisan sausages. And I’m notprepared to give up one of myfavourite convenience foods quiteso fast.

While a new WHO (World Health Organization) report saidprocessed meats such as bacon and hot dogs may increase therisk of colon cancer and red meat like beef and lamb “isprobably carcinogenic to humans,” if you’re not having smokedmeats or barbecued steak every day, the increased risk is small.And, I would argue, the decreased life enjoyment that would

result without this delicious ingredient is huge. So have yourbacon and smoked sausages, just practice moderation andchoose your sources wisely.

Meet Your MakersOn the heels of the holiday entertaining season—where smokycharcuterie was featured on my party platters—is the perfecttime of year to add home-style sausages to the menu. And weare awash in fine sausage makers in Victoria who are makingproducts as far away from scrap-filled industrial smokies as aFol Epi baguette is to Wonder Bread.

At North 48, chef Sam Chalmers grinds fresh pork butt forthe spicy andouille sausage on his menu. Chef Cory Pelan ofthe Whole Beast is the king of salumi, the Italian style of curedsausage. He creates artisan soppressata, salami and guancialeusing ethically raised, hormone- and antibiotic-free local meat.The classic French charcuterie at Choux Choux Charcuterieincludes all manner of house-made sausages, whether you wanta Toulouse sausage for your cassoulet recipe, saucisson sec for apicnic or an exotic lamb, prune and rosemary sausage, thewhole hogs from local Sloping Hill and Stillmeadow farmsbutchered right in the shop. If you’re out for a weekend drive,there’s the chewy dried droëwors and eclectic selection of freshsausages from Galloping Goose Sausage Co. in Metchosin, orchef Brad Boisvert’s smoky creations at Cure Artisan Meat &Cheese in the Cowichan Valley. And for rings of smoky Polishham sausage, there’s no place better than Victoria’s Cook ’n PanPolish Deli. Geoff Pinch of Four Quarters Meats in Sidney is a sausage-

making pioneer, too. He creates a wide variety of fresh, driedand smoked sausages, many served by local chefs or sold in citymarkets and butcher shops, from The Root Cellar and thePenny Farthing Pub, to McLennan’s Island Meat & Seafood.While Pinch says VIHA (Vancouver Island Health Authority)

has strict rules about the level of curing salts (sodium andpotassium nitrite and nitrate) required to safely preserve driedand smoked sausages, small artisan makers usually use minimalamounts. Good butchers grind whole muscle meats for theirsausages, he adds, which sets them apart from lesser qualitycommercial products.“I start with whole pork butt or picnic for my chorizo,

andouille and kielbasa sausages,” he says, surveying the neatrings hanging in his smokehouse, “and I make turkey sausagesfrom boneless, skinless turkey thighs. We use nitrates only whenit’s required, but not in fresh sausages.”From the smoker, Pinch leads me to his fermentation

chamber where legs from local free-range pigs are beingtransformed into traditional prosciutto ham and triangularpieces of cured pork jowl (guanciale) are hanging next to hisdry-cured salami and landjager.“When you buy sausage locally, from an artisan maker, you’re

getting a unique recipe, and a sausage with no fillers orprepared mixes,” he says. “No one is cheaping out—we’reoffering the best products we can make.”

Celebrating SausageVancouver’s Oyama Sausage is ground zero for classic curedmeats. At their annual fall sausage festival, they sample some oftheir best creations, from lamb and feta or Gouda brats, oozingwith cheese, to smoky Saucisse Vaudoise and Rheinlaendersausages.They also celebrate the sausage with the annual Cassoulet-

fest—feting that French dish of beans and other goodies (thinkduck confit and garlicky Beurre de Gascogne) with their hand-crafted Toulouse sausages.Owners John and Christine van der Lieck set the standard for

sausage making on the West Coast when they opened Oyamain the Granville Island Public Market in 2001, arriving from theOkanagan with years, and generations, of European sausage-making skills behind them. The Oyama market stall, laden with whole hams, pork pies

“When you buy sausagelocally, from an artisanmaker, you’re getting aunique recipe”

Cont’d on the next page.

Classic Cassoulet prepared atChoux Choux Charcuterie.



and sausages of every shape and size, is always one of my favourite spots to stop. Theyuse only Canadian free-range, organic or family-farm-raised meats in their wide array ofcured meat products and have long been a benchmark for what a good sausage could,and should, be.At Oyama, they encourage cooks to “think outside the casing,” and I like that advice,

too. When a butcher makes a good quality fresh sausage, you can take it home, slice itopen and use that perfectly spiced ground meat in place of hamburger in stuffings,patties or terrines. I’ve long relied on the flavour of a good spicy Italian sausage to spiceup the tomato sauce I make to ladle over spaghetti or layer into lasagna.Oyama’s sausages, bacon and duck leg confit are just right with freshly fermented

sauerkraut for Alsatian-style choucroute, baked up with beans, or simply sliced on yourcharcuterie board for noshing.

Is Sausage Safe?While some media jumped on the WHO findings last fall, reporting that cured meatswere as dangerous as cigarettes, after the dust settled the message settled, too. Whilemost cured meats contain some amount of a “Group 1 carcinogen,” the report does notclaim eating cured meat is anything like smoking or asbestos when it comes to cancerrisk. The report gleaned its data from revisiting epidemiological studies, not byconducting specific clinical trials. Oyama’s John van der Lieck, like many fine sausage makers, responded to the cured

meat scare with a sensible message.“The truth, as we and most of our wonderful customers will say, is: moderation,

moderation, moderation!” van der Lieck wrote on the company’s website. “Enjoy yourfood, indulge occasionally (enjoy it when you do this), eat fresh local meat, dairy,vegetables, grains and seafood (we are so blessed here in the Lower Mainland) and savourevery moment!”A New York Times story offered similar advice: “Eating processed meat like hot dogs,

ham and bacon raises the risk of colon cancer and … consuming other red meats“probably” raises the risk as well. But the increase in risk is so slight that experts said mostpeople should not be overly worried about it.”Furthermore, experts agree that the nutritional profile of meat depends on what the

animal was eating, making grass-fed meats completely different from their grain-fedcounterparts.I grew up eating fresh and cured sausages of all kinds and still like to stop at the local

Polish deli for a ring of their lean juniper sausage, the lean smoky bacon and sticks ofdry pepperoni. Like traditionally cured prosciutto di parma or capocollo, these qualitymeats have been unfairly lumped in with cheap wieners and cold cuts that are loadedwith nitrates, sugar, fillers and preservatives.We’ve never succumbed to these supermarket sausages—and I don’t recommend that

you do—but I’m going to keep good local charcuterie in my larder and my diet. After all,cured meats are traditional foods, originally created to preserve meats while ensuringthat no good food goes to waste. So find a good butcher and enjoy sausages along with other quality meats. Just

remember the immortal words of Julia Child: “Everything in moderation, includingmoderation.” E

Two House Made Andouille Sausages, Roasted Yam & Cheese Curd Pierogies, Sauerkraut & Grainy Mustard Jus at North 48.

Where to Buy Sausages

Choux Choux Charcuterie, 830 Fort St, Victoria, 250.382.7572

Four Quarters Meats, 2031 Malaview Avenue West, Sidney, 250.508.7654

Oyama Sausage Co.,, Granville Island Public Market, Vancouver, 604.327.7407

Slaters Meats, 2577 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, 250.592.0823

Village Butcher, 2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, 250.598.1115

Whole Beast, 2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, 250.590.7675



Lamb merguez sausage, almondromesco, kale, chickpea at StageWine Bar

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WHISKHolidays are over, resolutions are made. At Whisk, wewill help you get serious (but not too serious) aboutyour diet. With a great selection of cast iron cookware,veggie spiralizers and lots of local products. At the Victoria Public Market, 778 - 433 - 9184 www.whiskvictoria.ca Facebook and Instagram Open 7 days a week

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—From the Think Local First website (thinklocalvictoria.com)



Rebecca Wellm

an

My infatuation for Canadian Whisky iswell known, and it’s a big focus for thebar at OLO; a lot of this has to do withthe underdog title Canada holds in thewhiskey realm. Canadian Whisky has hada massive renaissance over the last fewyears as it continues to grow exponen-tially not only in the biggest Canadianloving markets such as Texas andGeorgia, but in its home country. Thisgrowth is thanks to pioneers such as JohnHall of Forty Creek, Dr Don Livermore ofJP Wiser’s, and supporters like Davin deKergommeaux, author of CanadianWhisky. The history of Canadian Whisky is

lengthy, dark and sordid, and morecomplex than expected. Its rise as thenumber one drunk whisky in NorthAmerica came during the civil war, notprohibition as many think. With theNorth and South at odds, whiskeyproduction in the South halted and theNorth wasn’t trading with the South, sothey both looked far north to theirCanadian cousins and the trading ofwhisky began for both sides. Prohibition

and World Wars actually hurt theCanadian Whisky industry and helpedwith the mass amalgamation of manysmaller distilleries to stave off bankruptcy. Canadian Whisky has rye in it, but is

not rye in the same sense as AmericanRye Whiskey as there are no rules here onthe rye content needed for a bottle to beclassed as Canadian Whisky; that said,there are now a number of CanadianWhiskies on the market that are 100%rye, such as Canadian Club & AlbertaPremium. The other two major differ-ences are that instead of a mash bill likeother whiskies, Canadians distill eachgrain (corn, rye & barley) individually,age them separately, and then blend ittogether when ready; secondly, producersare allowed to add 9.09% of anything tothe final product. Why is this all relevant? Dr Don Livermore of JP Wiser’s believes

that the freedom of Canadian Whiskie’srules gives the distiller and blender a hugeopportunity to impress, more so thanother categories. With the “use the rulesfor good, not for evil” mentality, brandssuch as Alberta Distillers and Forty Creekhave changed the landscape of CanadianWhisky and ushered in a new era that istaking our national spirit worldwide. The best cocktail and a classic Canadian

cocktail to showcase the Canadianingenuity is the Toronto. A classic createdby Robert Vermeire in Europe sometimein the 1910’s as the Fernet Cocktail. Thequote at the bottom of the recipe states“This cocktail is much appreciated byCanadians of Toronto”. It was laterpublished in David Embury’s “The FineArt of Mixing Drink’s” in 1948 as theToronto Cocktail. A variation of aManhattan, the Toronto is a balancedcocktail utilizing the “bartender’s hand-shake” liqueur, Fernet Branca. E

g COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH —By Shawn Soole

The Toronto

A massive renaissance over the last few years

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y AM2 oz Forty Creek Barrel Select¼ oz Fernet Branca¼ oz rich simple syrup Dash of Angostura BittersWooden matchesOrange zest

Stir & strain into a small coupe and garnish with aflamed orange zest.

To flame an orange zest. Light a match; hold the lit match several inchesabove the cocktail. Hold the orange peel coloredside down, about two inches above the lit match.Twist and squeeze the peel over the lit match. Pressout a lot of oil quickly. Rub the peel around the rimof the glass. Drop the twist into the drink ordiscard.

Canadian Whisky



E

g A BEER AND A BITE By Colin Hynes

Colin Hynes

THE BEER:Steel & Oak - Satsuma (New Westminister BC)It says on the bottle: “Gee,thanks Steel & Oak formaking lagers cool again”and I couldn’t agree more.Lagers have a bad rep on thewest coast, so many peopleturn to bitter IPA’s, but a wellmade lager or ale can quenchthe thirst just as good as it’sbitter brethren. This one isno exception, great citrusnotes, and it’s easy bodycould take you away fromyour normal bitter.ABV: 5.2% 20 IBU 650mlbottle (steelandoak.ca)

THE BITE: Cinnamon Rolls Every once in awhile it's good fun to round up thegang and have a big Sunday brunch-hangout. Some-times it can be out at a restaurant, or other times it isawesome to make something at home that knocksthem away. One food that is easy, but incredibly good,are cinnamon rolls. I made these ones by lining thebottom of a Staub pot with a brown butter caramelsauce so that it would bubble up through the doughrolls while baking. Make sure that you have extramade, as most people will want two or three of theseonce they have the first few bites.

CONCLUSIONHaving an easy sudsy weekend brunch is good at anytime of the year, but I find early in the new year theabsolute best. It’s usually snowing or raining andyou're inside anyways, so why not have a bunch offriends over to have a good time, especially after theholiday rush? The lager goes well with these sweetcinnamon rolls, but would work equally well withpancakes, waffles, or French toast. The citrus notesmake this beer almost feel like it could be a juicesubstitute! For those friends that don’t want a beer,make sure to have mimosas on hand!.

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SaluteSangiovese!

Among the hundreds of wondrous native grapes in Italy, Sangiovese tops thecharts as most planted as well as one of its most noble. Yet Sangiovese hasn’t always been held in such high regarded. Numerous uninspir-

ing and unfriendly wines tarnished this variety’s reputation. Sangiovese has a wholelot of structure (think searing acidity and drying tannin), and poor examples madefrom high yields exaggerated this, lacking the fruit and flavour to lend any charm.However, a mentality switch from quantity to quality resulted in vast improvementsin Italian wine in general, allowing Sangiovese to demonstrate its true magnificence. When Sangiovese is good, it’s very, very good. Today, quality examples abound.

Expressions range from light, modest and crunchy to profound, full-bodied elixirs.Never dark or purple, Sangiovese sports a fairly light ruby colour. Don’t let this throwyou; deeper and darker isn’t necessarily better. Sangiovese enchants with gorgeousaromas and appetizing flavours like red cherry, tea, violet and sweet garden herbs.Then there’s that hunger-inducing acid and tannic structure with enough fruit in themiddle to pad it out. Sangiovese isn’t easy to get right. It takes a long time to ripen and doesn’t like being

wet or cold. Yet it also suffers in excessively hot and dry conditions. Though it is grownthroughout most of Italy, Tuscany is truly Sangiovese’s sweet spot. Do names likeChianti, Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino ring a bell? You may have alsoheard of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Carmignano and Morellino di Scansano. Allof these are appellations in Tuscany based on Sangiovese.The largest is Chianti, which stretches extensively across the rolling hills around

Florence and Siena. Sitting smack dab between these two cities, Chianti Classico is thehistoric heartland and its wines are particularly capable of delivering incomparablefinesse. Even in the various Chianti zones though, “Sangiovese is never easy,” admitsChianti Classico producer Diana Lenzi of Fattoria Petroio. “It’s a very tricky littlecreature and extremely variable from year to year.” She compares it to Pinot Noir, verysensitive to both weather and soil type. Plantings in unsuitable sites was just one ofthe reasons for lesser quality wines and spawned a belief that it wasn’t possible forSangiovese to make top-notch wine on its own.For this reason, blending modest amounts of other grapes with Sangiovese is

common in Chiantis. In fact, for a long time it was required. Traditionally, indigenousvarieties like Colorino, Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera were called upon for help; the firstfor colour, the second for softness and the last for aroma. More recently, internationalgrapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have been planted in Tuscany. Eventuallythese were admitted into Chianti and Chianti Classico regulations in minor percent-ages. Cab lends colour and even more structure while Merlot is used to give richnessand flesh. The addition of international grapes is always a topic of debate. Cab in particular

overwhelms Sangiovese even in small amounts. Many critics and winemakers arguethat if Sangiovese is to be blended, its traditional partners are the most appropriate. ButSangiovese is very capable of standing on its own. Today, a number of Chiantis opt for 100 percent Sangiovese and are absolutely

delicious and complete. Moreover, the wines of the Brunello di Montalcino region areonly permitted to include Sangiovese. South of Siena, the area around the charminghilltop town of Montalcino is warmer and drier than the Chianti zones so inevitablySangiovese ripens better. Aged for four years before release, Brunello can be rich,complex, savoury and cellar worthy. It is one of Italy’s most sought-after wines withprices to match. Brunello’s fresh and younger brother, Rosso di Montalcino, is alsomade exclusively from Sangiovese. While it doesn’t have the equivalent complexity orconcentration, it offers a delightful and affordable alternative. Sangiovese’s hypersensitivity to its environment, along with its variable quality of

the not-too-distant past have worked in tandem to curb its global domination. Yet it

g TERROIR By Michaela Morris

This indigenous grape is the red jewel ofTuscany’s rolling hillsides.



does have a modest presence outside Italy in vineyards as far-flung as Corsica,Argentina, Australia, Washington, Oregon and British Columbia.With the oldest Sangiovese vines in America, Seghesio Family Vineyards in Healds-

burg, California, is the benchmark for Sangiovese in California. Ted Seghesio’s grand-father Edoardo planted them in 1910. Only one of approximately twenty winemakersto work with Sangiovese in California, Ted explains that rich, fertile soils exacerbateSangiovese’s natural vigour. His vines are planted on non-fertile volcanic soil and arenever prolific. In the winery, he also works hard to strike a balance between thestructure and the fruit. Comparing his Sangiovese with those from Italy, Ted declares,“We’ve got the fruit, but the Italian versions have the length and nuances of violet.”In British Columbia, Sandhill was the first to plant Sangiovese. Winemaker Howard

Soon has been working with it since 1995. “One of my favourite drinks is Chianti,”enthuses Soon. “To me the charm of Tuscan reds, and Chianti in particular, is thatthey are medium weight but still have lots of flavour.” As for how Sangiovese fares inthe Okanagan, Soon reasons, “Being in light sandy soil helps manage the vigour.” Healso credits the valley’s warm summer days with enabling Sangiovese to fully ripen. Whether blended or solo, be it from Italy or elsewhere, Sangiovese shows best with

food. Cheerful inexpensive versions are the ultimate in pizza wines. Sangiovese’selevated acidity makes it a natural partner for equally tangy tomato sauce, so it’s pasta-perfect. It will uplift a basic meal of Tuscan bean soup to heavenly heights. Sangioveseplays well with lighter protein like chicken and ham and has the juiciness to cutthrough fatty duck. Earthier examples are sublime with rabbit or pheasant while themost robust can take on steak. They’ll also refresh the palate while complementing richbraises like osso buco. And if mushrooms are on the menu, it’s the moment to crackan aged Sangiovese. Want to explore Sangiovese further? Italy is the theme region at this year’s

Vancouver International Wine Festival. Expect a diversity of Sangiovese-based gemsfrom Italy and beyond. In the meantime, the wines recommended below are 100 per-cent Sangiovese unless otherwise noted. Cheers or, as they say in Italian, salute! E

2013 Gabbiano, Chianti DOCG, Italy $13-14 SKU# 25155(90% Sangiovese) Lip-smacking red cherry and ripe mint notes stimulate the appetite for a margheritapizza.

2011 Volpetto, Chianti Riserva DOCG, Italy $18-20 SKU# 525535Plum, herbs, subtle smoke and pleasantly assertive tannin. My go-to Chianti with a hearty bean soup.

2011 Poderi dal Nespoli, ‘Il Nespoli’ Sangiovese di Romagna SuperioreRiserva DOC, Italy $21-24 SKU# 401141From Emilia-Romagna, the region neighbouring Tuscany. Juicy bing cherry, tobacco, toast and chewytannin. Bring on the spaghetti bolognese.

2013 Castiglion del Bosco, Rosso di Montalcino DOC, Italy $24-27SKU# 628974Succulent, sun-drenched red cherries and raspberries complemented by pretty floral notes and bloodorange. It simply begs for duck.

2012 Sandhill, Small Lots Sangiovese, Sandhill Estate Vineyard, OkanaganValley BC VQA $26-29 SKU# 700641Sangiovese filled in with up to eight percent Cab and Merlot. Medium weight with sour cherry, redcurrants, cedar and clove leading to a dry grip on finish. Get your hands on some local rabbit for ahomegrown dinner.

2011 Fontodi, Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy $32-35 SKU# 533315A seriously classy and polished Chianti Classico possessing tea, violet, cinnamon and dark cherry notes.Sturdy tannins make it a natural with bistecca alla fiorentina.

2011 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy $40-44*Sangiovese blended with 10 percent Colorino and Malvasia Nera. Pure red fruit and minerals with fine,ripe tannins and an ethereal lightness. A beautiful partner for thyme-roasted chicken.

2012 Seghesio, Sangiovese, Alexander Valley, California $43-47*Expect lush and dense red fruit framed by assertive tannins and refreshing acidity. Ted Seghesio suggestsserving his Sangiovese alongside a meat braise.

2010 Costanti, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy $96-106 SKU# 756585Dark and brooding with wild forest berries, dried mint, smoke, balsam and leather. Tuck this rich andpowerful Brunello away for a few years, then savour with pheasant and mushrooms.

Prices exclusive of taxes.*Private wine stores only. Other wines available at BC Liquor Stores.

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g LIQUID ASSETS —By Larry Arnold

SPARKLING WINES:Steller’s Jay Sparkling Shiraz VQA NV,Okanagan, $26.00-30.00I really need to spend more time focused onthe BC wine industry. Good things arecoming out of those golden hills. ThisMarsanne from Road 13 is a real eye opener.The fruit was sourced from Blind CreekVineyard just outside of Cawston in theSimilkameen Valley. Pale gold with lovelyscents of peach, melon and wall flowers. Onthe palate this heady Marsanne has goodweight with a slightly oily texture, soft fruitflavours and a slightly earthy minerality.

De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut SelectChampagne, France, $70.00-75.00Seamless and superbly balanced with a livelystructure and creamy texture, Cordon Bleu isa blend of Pinot Noir (45%) Chardonnay(30%) and Pinot Meunier (25%)! Servedyoung Cordon Bleu is very much an aperitifstyle, light and fresh with soft acidity andlight citrus flavours.

SHERRY:Hidalgo La Gitana Amontillado NapoleonSeco , Spain, $30.00-35.00That’s a real mouthful you may think toyourself and besides who drinks Sherry thesedays? The shear folly. Well my friend let mesay this about that. This Amontillado is notyour grandmother’s sweet tipple. It may lookthe same in the glass but that is where thecomparison ends. The nose borders on theexotic, Christmas past. Caramelized almonds,walnuts, cedar, vanilla, spice, more nuts withperhaps the faintest impression of driedorange peels. The palate is a conundrum,medium-bodied but without the weightanticipated, the flavour profile is consistentwith the nose, caramel and nuts with subtlenuances, indescribable to all but the sharpestand the finish, you might mumble? What ofthe finish? The finish is clean, rich and bonedry. A revelation.

WHITE WINES:Road 13 Marsanne VQA 2014, Similkameen, $28.00-32.00I really need to spend more time focused on the BC wine industry. Good things arecoming out of those golden hills. This Marsanne from Road 13 is a real eye opener. Thefruit was sourced from Blind Creek Vineyard just outside of Cawston in the

Elizabeth Nyland

Recommendations include a superbsherry, a back-in-style Muscadet anda cellar-worthy BC red.



E

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Similkameen Valley. Pale gold with lovely scents of peach, melon and wall flowers.On the palate this heady Marsanne has good weight with a slightly oily texture, softfruit flavours and a slightly earthy minerality. Wow!

Ch du Coing de St Fiacre Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2014, France,$22.00-24.00Muscadet is so out of style it’s back in style. Chateau du Coing is family run and hasbeen making wine at Saint Fiacre since 1421. Using only estate grown fruit the winesare all aged “sur lie” for at least six months to ensure more body and complexity. It isfresh and delicate with floral, pear and toast aromas, and juicy citrus flavours. Verylight bodied with mouthwatering acidity, a subtle salinity and a clean dry finish.

Lange Twins Estate Chardonnay 2014, California, $16.00-18.00The Lange family has been growing grapes in Lodi, located to the east of San Francisco,for five generations, finally building the Lange Twins Winery in 2006. Barrel fermentedand aged in French and American oak for eight months, the 2014, is a serious quaffer.Very lush with buckets of ripe tropical fruit, butterscotch and hot buttered toastaromas and flavours and an easy to appreciate creamy finish. Old style CaliforniaChardonnay at a great price.

RED WINES:Road 13 5th Element VQA 2011, Okanagan, $58.00-65.00The 5th element is not cheap and it is definitely not cheerful. It is rich, powerful,incredibly complex and costs a lot of money. To make great wine the winemaker muststart with great grapes and Road 13 has done its homework, sourcing fruit from fivedifferent vineyards located throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. Ablend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec,the wine was aged in French oak for 16 months and finished in stainless steel for afurther 5 months before bottling. A real barnburner with cassis, blackberry, violet andcedar aromas, very rich and silky on the palate with a blush of fine grained tanninsand intense berry, vanilla and chocolate flavours. A superb wine that could use sometime in the cellar.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cab. Sauv. 2012, Australia, $26.00-28.00First produced in 1954 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon has the reputation as a top-drawer cabernet at a bargain basement price. Located in the heart of the Coonawarra,an area equally famed for its prime Terra Rossa soils and the Cabernet Sauvignon thatthrives upon it. Pure and rich with a dense core of ripe fruit nicely balanced with softacidity and dusty tannins.

Domaine de l’Olibet “Les Proses” Grenache Noir 2014, France, $14.00-15.00This hearty little quaffer from the heart of the Languedoc is a veritable potpourri offresh fruit flavours. Soft and supple with cherry scented fruit and a clean fresh finish.Serve slightly chilled.

Wente Sandstone Merlot 2012, California, $18.00-24.00Wente Sandstone Merlot is a blend of Merlot (90%), Petite Sirah (6%) and PetitVerdot (4%). Rich and silky with ripe black cherry, toasty oak and plum aromas andflavours, nicely balanced with soft tannins and a long supple finish.

Black Sage Vineyard Cab Sauvignon VQA 2013, Okanagan, $22.00-25.00Aged in a combination of new (20%) and used American and French oak for 12months. Rich and complex with a core of ripe, black raspberry, spice and vanillaflavours, medium to full-bodied, nicely balanced with a firm tannic structure.

DESSERT WINES:Quinta Do Crasto LBV Port 2008, Portugal, $24.00-27.00Late Bottled Vintage Port or LBV is one of the great values still found in most liquorstores throughout the province. Before I go on I must acknowledge that value is arelative concept and even though there is much to love about British Columbia, theprice of beverage alcohol is not one of them. An LBV is a vintage dated Port that hasbeen aged in barrel for anywhere between 4 and 6 years. If you look closely at thelabel and have the eyes of a raptor, the year of the bottling can be seen somewhere onthe bottle. This extra time in barrel softens out the fortified nectar within making itdrinkable at an earlier age than a traditional vintage port. Black as pitch and veryintense with ripe blackberry, plum, spice and dusty earth aromas. On the palate thewine is full-bodied and bursting with ripe fruit flavours, but the sweetness is somewhatconstrained. Nicely balanced with a firm tannic structure and a surprisingly dryfinish. An excellent bottle of wine!



VICTORIA: Happy New Year, Victorians! Before we get down to new business, I offer up a small

correction to my last column. In the last issue’s Buzz I wrote that the fourth Pizzeria Primastrada location

was setting up in the space formerly occupied by Eugene’s. In fact, the new PPS has now opened in the

space right next door and Le Pho Homestyle Vietnamese Cuisine occupies the former home of Eu-

gene’s. Both are at 1990 Fort St., and both deserve a visit. (pizzeriaprimastrada.com) (lepho.ca)

This is the time of year when people are either feeling relieved that party season is over, or feeling

disappointed that it ever has to end. If you fall into the latter group, then you will be happy to hear that

Roast has teamed up with Atomique Productions to present Mardi Gras at the Market on Feb 13,

complete with live bands and festival performers. Each ticket includes a New Orleans inspired dish and

cocktail. (atomiqueproductions.com)

Another exciting celebration will be taking place on Jan 25; The Canadian Culinary Foundation –

Victoria Branch is pleased to announce it will be celebrating its 50th anniversary. This will be a prestigious

event not only because it will be held at Government House, but because in attendance will be Bruno Marti

(Order of BC Recipient and International Judge and promoter of Team Canada) and the National

President (Donald Gyurkovits), past chefs of Government House and many others who have made a

positive impact on culinary arts in this city. (ccfccvictoria.ca/events)

This is also the time of year when social media feeds tend to fill up with people’s Mexican holiday

photos. For those of us not lucky enough to be heading south this winter, comfort can be found in the

impressive selection of tacos or burritos right here in Victoria. A sign is up announcing the arrival of La

Taqueria Pinche Taco Shop on Fort St, (across the street from Tacofino, and around the corner from La

Taquisa – suggesting the Fort and Blanshard intersection could be renamed Taco Corner). La Taqueria

launched in Vancouver in 2009, and has since opened two more locations on the mainland.

(lataqueria.com) Another Mexican food franchise, Mucho Burrito, has opened a location in Tuscany

Village (muchoburrito.com) and Café Mexico is slated to reopen in Market Square, including a new

tequila bar. Owners Brad and Hilda Olberg have already opened a new breakfast and lunch outlet next

door, the aptly named Fuego Old Town Eatery (formerly Café Mexi-go, you can read more about the

recovery from the fire that gutted these two establishments at eatmagazine.ca). (fuegooldtowneatery.com)

A new Korean and Japanese restaurant, Park’s Kitchen, has opened at 606 Trounce Alley. Around the

corner on Broad Street, a new and unique establishment is offering haircuts, hotdogs and pinball. Yes, you

read that right (the haircuts take place in a separate space at the back of the building). Saint Franks is

the lovechild of Wheelies Motorcycles’ Jay Pincombe and Victory Barber’s Matty Conrad and was

“established for good times”. (saint-franks-jzuj.squarespace.com)

With food prices on the rise, more people are looking to grow their own food. This year’s annual Seedy

Saturday offers a great opportunity to connect with master gardeners, get information on gardening

classes and workshops and purchase local, BC, open-pollinated, organic and natural seeds. Hosted by the

James Bay Market Society at the Victoria Conference Centre, Feb 20.

(jamesbaymarketsociety.com/SeedySaturday)

The Ramada Inn at 123 Gorge Rd has a new eatery - Crows Restaurant opened in early December

and is a family style restaurant offering specialties such as Blackened Poached Cod and BBQ Onion Ring

Burgers. (facebook.com/crowsrestaurantvictoria) Over at Dockside Green, Caffe Fantastico is expand-

ing into the space beside Fol Epi. More news to follow. (caffefantastico.com). Hide + Seek is a newly

opened coffee spot at 2207 Oak Bay Ave. Read all about them in our First Look article on eatmagazine.ca

—REBECCA BAUGNIET

COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: Cowichan's Unworth Vineyards CSR (Community

Supported Restaurant Membership) dinners continue through to April. Modeled after community supported

agriculture, they help forge relationships between consumers, farmers and producers, providing an income

during low farming seasons while at the same time challenging Chef Steven Elskens' creativity in a 'local

as it gets' way. (unsworthvineyards.com)

In collaboration with Vancouver Island Sapsuckers, the B.C Discovery center brings you its' annual Big

Leaf Maple Syrup Festival in February. Over two days learn how to tap your own maple trees, take in

the maple syrup competition judged by local celebrity chefs, or just partake in the syrup making and of

course tasting events! The event date hinges on precise weather conditions so stay in touch with blmaple.net,

or email [email protected] for event postings and exact dates.

Iconic Deerholme Farm hosts a Happiness Dinner on February 13th, with foods that boost your

serotonin levels and promote a sense of well being through the foods of far South America: Peru, Chile and

Argentina. Think oyster and truffle ceviche, pasta chowder with clams, purple potatoes and cuchufli

cookies: all part of an interesting 6 course meal paired with wines and spirits. (deerholme.com)

Nanaimo is home to a new micro brewery; Brad McCarthy's White Sails located downtown near the

Old Quarter. Visit their beautiful taproom and try a flight of Gallow’s Point Chocolate Porter, Departure

Day Session Ale and Mount Benson IPA served by the fireplace. In addition to light fare provided by Dish

(dishchef.com), indulge in a soft Germany pretzel hot from Columbia Bakery's oven every day, and pair it

with White Sail's very own Yellow Point Ale cheese sauce. (whitesailsbrewing.com)

Also new to the neighborhood is chef Bruce Cowan's Fiddlehead Bistro. His locally sourced menu

complements a larder of at least 30 local beers by the bottle such as Moon Under Water, Red Arrow

Brewing and Longwood Brewery as well as an on tap menu. This newcomer has done his research on

what local means to us, offering spirits from Arbutus Distillery's Coven Vodka and Empiric Gin for all your

martini needs. Menu items range from Chile Lime Meatballs to Spicy Peanut Rice Bowl and a Rack of Ribs.

(fiddleheadbistro.com)

For those of you that crave authentic Italian fare, Italian trained chef and owner Aldo Alaia has brought

The Buzz

IN COAST VICTORIA HARBOURSIDE HOTEL & MARINA BOOK ONLINE AT BLUECRAB.CA OR CALL 250.480.1999

S E A F O O D H O U S E

It's time to Feast with our winter 3-course menus...and we're not skimping with smaller portions!

F E A S T2016

$35 $45 $55M E N U S



The Buzz

his experience to the new Figo Italian Bistro in downtown Nanaimo. Their mission statement says 'it's

not a concept, it's a tradition'. With he extensive menu certainly looks authentic and inviting but you'll

have to be the judge since it wasn't yet open when I stopped in. Please report back! (477 Wallace St),

[email protected]

This Valentine’s Day at Cedars at Tigh Na Mara Resort in Parksville will be extra special with

Executive Chef Eric Edwards cooking his heart out with a romantic Valentine Lovers Feast February 13th

and 14th. (tigh-na-mara.com)

Parksville Uncorked, one of Vancouver Island’s premier food and wine festivals, comes to Tigh Na

Mara Resort and The Beach Club from February 18th- 21st. This is not to be missed event! Four whole

days of regional tastings including Untapped beer sampling, Swirl wine tasting, Mission Hill and Hatch

Winery winemakers dinners and Bubbles and Brunch to cap off the weekend of eating and drinking,

all showcased in a super spectacular setting. Tickets go fast so don't hesitate on this one. There isn't a

better way to spend time on the island! (tigh-na-mara.com beachclubbc.com)

Join us in wishing McLean's Specialty Foods a happy anniversary as they 24 years in Nanaimo's

Old City Quarter. They will also be will be hosting their 24th Annual Haggis Extravaganza in January,

serving a special haggis lunch on Saturday January 23 and again on Burns' day Monday January 25.

Reservations recommended. Plus there will be featured Scottish biscuits and goodies and a piper will be

on hand to alert the neighbours. 250.754.0100 (mcleansfoods.com)

Should you manage to take in even half of the events and experiences above, I have no doubt

winter will pass you by before you even notice, and your taste buds will thank you!

—KIRSTEN TYLER

TOFINO | UCLUELET: As I write this we’re settling into winter storm season in Tofino, with onlyone power outage so far. While it might be the season for many locals to seek sunnier climates, visitors

come for the storms and this time of year they are rarely disappointed.

Congratulations are due to SoBo Restaurant and The Pointe Restaurant team at the Wickaninnish

Inn for their winning oyster creations at the recent Clayoquot Oyster Festival Gala. This event is one

of the best of the year and celebrates the abundance of oysters we have in Clayoquot Sound and on

Vancouver Island.

At the gala event held November 21st at The Shore, SoBo won the People’s Choice award and The

Pointe won the Judges’ Choice. The Pointe also took home best table display. Well done to both, and

thanks to organizer Ashley Adams and team, as well as the dedicated oyster shuckers who work all

weekend to feed the masses! Please visit oystergala.com to learn more about the festival. (wickinn.com

sobo.ca)

SoBo also recently hosted an evening with Brewmaster Sean Hoyne of Hoyne Brewing Co. of

Victoria. Hoyne beers were paired with Chef Lisa Ahier’s creations, with a significant amount raised for

the Tofino Salmon Enhancement Society, the local fish hatchery that is dedicated to the preservation of

wild salmon stocks in Clayoquot Sound. The society has come to rely heavily on fundraising efforts as

government funding has not kept pace with necessity.

And finally, kudos to chef Lisa Ahier of SoBo as the SoBo Cookbook was recently named the 2015

Regional Cultural Cookbook by Taste Canada. As SoBo closed for the season on November 29th

(reopening in February), she hinted at possible ideas for another cookbook. With the success of the first

one, we certainly hope it won’t be the last! (sobo.ca)

The Tuff City Sushi Bar is another restaurant that normally closes its doors for a winter break, and

this year they did so with a bang. On November 30th, Crazy Ron and his crew lit up the night sky with

an impressive fireworks display to mark the last service of 2015. Don’t ever change Ron and open again

soon! (tuffcity.com).

Faced with seasonal closures, solace comes in the form of brunch for those of us still in town. The

Schooner Restaurant’s weekend brunch resumed in November, thankfully. The kitchen crew at the

Schooner knows how to do brunch right, and I’m looking forward to my first Sunday experience.

(schoonerrestaurant.ca)

Shelter Restaurant was also doing a Sunday brunch in December, in addition to the regular specials

on Canucks hockey game nights. Enjoy Tofino Brewing Co. beer and food specials during hockey

games, and after 10pm. (shelterrestaurant.com)

We hope to see you in Tofino this winter as we enjoy fewer crowds and some impressive displays of

wind and rain! —JEN DART

The Buzz

Local Free Range Meats & Poultry

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Artisan cheeses

and our own

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Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday


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