eat magazine july | august 2015

2 EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015

Broadmead Village, 130-777 Royal Oak Drive, Victoria, BCwww.pennakitchen.com, 250-727-2110,

[email protected] for people who love to cook

entertain your sense of style

check out our fresh seafood bar!

919 douglas st.

rooftop surfcluboo o o ftor

op s sur rfcl lu

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Camille`s@ 45 Bastion Square

Victoria, BC250-381-3433

www.camillesrestaurant.com

At 45 Bastion Square

Globally Inspired. Local Flavour.

Open for Dinner Service Tuesdaythrough Saturday starting at 5:30

ask about ourSpecial Occasion Brunch

& Wine Dinners

@CamillesDining

CamillesAt45BastionSquare

Meating

MEATS

www.tworiversmeats.com 604.990.5288 [email protected]

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3www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015

contentSmart. Local. Delicious.

Pierogies with baconand onions, Polish

Sausage, Dijon mustardat A Taste of Europe

pg 17.

BBQ catfish at Heart of Asia

pg 20.

DEPARTMENTS06 FROM THE EDITOR

g Food06 CONCIERGE DESKMonthly calendar of events + festivals

08 Good For YouPatio food

10 CraftLocal butchers

11 Food MattersBig salads

12 Get FreshBlueberries

13 Epicure At LargeChilies

g Restaurants14 ReporterItalian Bakery, Wild Mountain

16 Eating Well For LessLa Tana, Stir it Up, A Taste of Europe Deli

18 ReporterFive Asian restaurants

23 Top 5Ice Creams & gelato

g Recipes26 Local KitchenMeat the new steak frites, Afternoon berry galette

g Features30 Sweet Pies Local piemakers & ingredients

32 The Oak Bay Food Trail Special Feature

gWine & Beer22 Cocktail of the MonthJugs and Punches44 VincabularyGruner Veltliner 45 Beer & a BitePersephone Brewing’s India Summer Ale

46 Wine + TerroirSouthern Rhones

48 Wine & Food PairingA summer picnic menu

49 Liquid AssetsLarry Arnold recommends10 wines

g Community41 What the Pros Know: Butchers & fishmongers50 The Buzz: All the news that fit to print...and then some

Rebecca Wellm

anElizabeth N

yland


VANCOUVER ISLAND COMES ALIVE IN THE SUMMER; the streets fill with visitors and locals stay up later.It’s a time for family cookouts and fireworks, loud music and cold rosé wine. We linger on outdoor patios andrise early to find the city scraped clean and fresh with a new day. It’s a time to celebrate simple pleasures likeicy cold beer with a spicy tuna taco, vegetables on the grill or a creamy blackberry ice cream cone. Everyoneplays hooky from work occasionally in the summer. When I do, I like to idle away a hot afternoon reading abook in my garden, a sandwich made with a perfectly ripe tomato and a cafetiere of French press coffee at myside. What could be better?This issue, we have two Top 5 articles: one exploring under-the-radar Asian restaurants; the other we did

the slurping around for you so you could enjoy the best ice cream and gelato in the city. Turn to page 10where new writer Sol Kauffman pays tribute to the craft of the local butcher, and in the recipe department

we reveal our recipe for the ultimate steak frites and offer a cooling blueberry and beet borscht. Whatever your plans for thissummer, I hope you eat deliciously well.

� � � � � � � � � � � � � HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS. � � � � � � � � � � �

Summer is a perfect slice of peach pie.See page 30

|Editor’s Note |

Gary Hynes

R. W

ellman

HAVE THE BEST SUMMER EVER


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EATFOUNDER & EDITOR Gary Hynes

PUBLISHER Pacific Island GourmetSPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Colin Hynes

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Julie Pegg

DRINK EDITOR Treve RingSENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold

ART DIRECTION Gary HynesCOPYEDITOR Cynthia Annett

REGIONAL REPORTERSTofino | Ucluelet Jen Dart | Victoria Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up IslandKirsten Tyler

CONTRIBUTORSLarry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, Adam Cantor, Cinda Chavich, JohnCrawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, SolKaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Sophie MacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, SimonNattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Kaitlyn Rosenburg, AdrienSala, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman.

Cover photography by Michael Tourigny

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced with-

out the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet

Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the

articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right

to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

OUR ETHICAL GUIDING PRINCIPALS1. EAT has advertisers in our magazine and on our website; they are our primary source of income. Our company,

Pacific Island Gourmet, employs a dedicated advertising team responsible for selling ad space in EAT and on

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www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2015



CONCIERGEBy Rebecca Baugniet

JulyOAKLANDS SUNSET MARKET (SAANICH) Since its beginning in 2012, the market has grown in size and frequency and nowincludes up to 50 vendors representing fresh produce, prepared food, hot food, arts andcrafts, local non-profits and small businesses. New this season, Oaklands will beintroducing Bottles Sales on their off-weeks from Beer Garden nights. This means thattwice a month you can taste test your favourite local wineries, breweries, and cider-houses and take home a bottle or two. Every Wednesday until Sept 2 (no market on July1), from 4:30-8:30pm. The corner of Belmont Ave. and Ryan St. at OaklandsCommunity Centre Basketball Courts. (oaklandscommunitycentre.com/markets)

THE OAK BAY VILLAGE NIGHT MARKET (OAK BAY)On the second Wednesday in July, August and September, Oak Bay Village becomes aEuropean style market between 4 and 8 pm. Each market features an in-season producetheme with fresh produce from southern Vancouver Island. In 2015 Markets will be heldon July 8, August 12 and September 9. (oakbay.ca)

VICTORIA DOWNTOWN FARMERS' MARKET (VICTORIA)Homegrown. Handmade. Year Round. Every Wednesday, Saturday & Sunday 11AM-3PMFeaturing the region’s best farms, freshest food, friendliest vendors, demonstrations andfinest musicians. Come with your re-useable bags and fill up on local goodies. Check outtheir Vendor Calendar online to see who's coming and when:(victoriapublicmarket.com/market-calendar)

ESQUIMALT FARMERS’ MARKET (ESQUIMALT)The Esquimalt Farmers’ Market believes in supporting local growers and producers andthose who engage in environmentally sound, farming practices. They want toencourage backyard farmers to help nourish their community with their quality

products. This encourages local sustainability and neighbourly interaction. The marketfeatures farm produce and plants, edibles, food trucks and more. Thursday nights from4.30-8.30pm (esquimaltmarket.com)

MOSS STREET MARKET (VICTORIA)2015 is Moss Street Market’s 24th season of providing local and organic farm-freshproduce, local foods, handmade crafts, artisan clothing, inspiring services andcommunity education to folks from the entire Victoria area and region. May throughOctober, every Saturday, 10am to 2pm, rain or shine. (mossstreetmarket.com)

SAANICH STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL (SAANICH)This event originated as a celebration of the agricultural roots of Saanich and hasblossomed into a grand festival for all ages. Enjoy an old style family picnic at the beachor take part in a wide range of free family activities. July 12 at Beaver Lake. (saanich.ca)

TASTE: VICTORIA’S FESTIVAL OF FOOD AND WINE (VICTORIA) Victoria’s seventh annual Taste festival will uncork Thursday July 16, with an eveningtasting of more than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine prepared by topVancouver Island chefs. Not just a wine festival, this culinary tourism experience is anextra long weekend of tastings, seminars and events...a festival with a culinaryconscience. Events run through to Sunday, July 19. Tickets sell out quickly.(victoriataste.com).

HOUSEGUEST (VICTORIA)Join Houseguest and EAT for 'The Tapa Crawl' – a three venue walking dinner at Chorizo& Co., Perro Negro & Bodega. Special guests Misconduct Wine Co. from Penticton.6pm, Sunday, July 19th. Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com

BREWERY AND THE BEAST (VANCOUVER)Chefs demonstrate their skill and passion for meat through a wide variety of deliciousand inspired creations. Local and regional farms provide the highest quality proteins tobe featured through various cooking methods. A stellar line up of chefs representingrestaurants from Vancouver and Whistler. Whole pig and lamb roasts, charcuterie,smoked meats, ethnic-inspired dishes, classic BBQ, and other full-flavored exotic foods.July 26. (Victoria’s Brewery and the Beast event will take place September 27th)breweryandthebeast.com

Mike Beatty, Chef f

O REILLEY S @ Po in t E l l i ce House

rant

New breakfast, lunch & tea menus

In-season produce from our own garden

Close to downtown but far away from the world 2616 Pleasant Street, Victoria

250-380-6506

Open Thursday to Monday, 8 am to 4 pm


BODEGA


AugustAGASSIZ FARMS CYCLE TOURS 2015(FRASER VALLEY)The 9th annual Agassiz Farms Cycle Tour isplanned for Saturday, July 25th. There willbe no tour in Chilliwack for 2015. Theleisurely self-guided Agassiz Farms CycleTour provides an educational and culinaryexperience exploring many farms; some thatare open to the public for this day only. Thecycle tour is approximately 25km along flatpublic roadways. Start and finish your slowcycle any time between 9am-4pm. Pleasebring cash as most farmers are unable toaccept credit cards. (fraservalleycycletours.com)

HOUSEGUEST (VICTORIA)Join Houseguest and EAT for 'The GulfIslands Showcase'. With special guests SaltSpring Island Cheese (Salt Spring Island), SeaStar Vineyards (Pender Island) and

Pilgrimme (Galiano Island). 6pm, Sunday, August 16th. At Catalano (Victoria).Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com

NORTH SAANICH FLAVOUR TRAIL (SAANICH)The North Saanich Flavour Trail offers residents and visitors the opportunity to exploreand experience Peninsula food and agriculture. This year’s event is billed as the NorthSaanich Jubilee Flavour Trail & Wine Fest in honour of the 50th anniversary of theofficial incorporation of the District of North Saanich. August 21-23. (flavourtrails.com)

FEAST OF FIELDS (VICTORIA)Feast of Fields is FarmFolk/CityFolk’s annual fundraiser. Net proceeds support theirwork year round as they help to create a sustainable food system for BritishColumbia. Not only will guests have a great culinary experience but they will also beinvesting in a secure food future. The Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will be heldSunday, Sept. 20, from 1-5 pm at O.U.R. Ecovillage, Shawnigan Lake. For ticketpurchase information visit the Feast of Fields website. (feastoffields.com).

BEST OF THE WEST (VANCOUVER)As part of the Harmony Arts Festival, twelve of the North Shore’s best restaurants willbe paired with twelve BC wineries by hosts’ house wine and tasked with creating theperfect complementary dish. The evening’s guests will vote on their favourite, with thewinning restaurant and winery team crowned Best of the West for 2015. Aug 5. Thefestival runs July 31-Aug 9. (harmonyarts.ca)

GARLIC FESTIVAL (RICHMOND)The annual garlic festival is pairing with the Chefs to the Field event. Includedelicacies from local restaurants and culinary academies, an expanded garlic market,family themed cooking demonstrations, children’s activities, and a mad dashcooking competition with chefs running into the fields to harvest their owningredients! Aug 23 at the Sharing Farm in Richmond. (garlicfestival.sharingfarm.ca)

JOY ROAD CATERING WINEMAKER SERIES (OKANAGAN)Dine with the Valley's leading winemakers in an idyllic vineyard setting overlookingSkaha Lake. Offered on select Thursday evenings this season. (joyroadcatering.com)

1440 Haultain StCorner of Belmont and Haultain

(Haultain Corners)(778) 265-6225

Hours: Monday - Saturday 9:30-6pm

An old-world 21st century general storecarrying unique local artisan foods andorganic produce, sustainably-sourcedhousehold goods, clothing and gifts

www.thelocalgeneralstore.ca

The Local General Store

FEAST PORTLAND (PORTLAND, OREGON)One of the top food festivals in North America.. hell... the world. FeastPortland is four days of tasting, eating, sipping and learning from the topchefs, wineries, breweries and bartenders in Portland and around the USA inthe coolest food city west of the Rockies. Tasting events, hands-on classes,dinner series and beer and wine “drink tanks”. From the opening “SandwichInvitational” to the hot-ticket “Night Market” to the closing “Crucifery:Vegetables Rock with King Estate Winery” Feast Portland is the must-go eventof the fall season. Takes place Sept 17-20. Tickets are on sale now so get themwhile you can. Packages available, (feastportland.com)



V6V 1J6

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g GOOD FOR YOU By Pam Durkin

Summer EatsPatio food—the healthy way.

EVERY SEASON HAS ITS DISTINCT CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS. Summer’s juicy

burgers, hotdogs, fruit pies and ice cream are virtually synonymous with the season.

Unfortunately, while these food faves are undeniably delicious, they’re all too often less

than “good for you.” Don’t despair—you can enjoy these seasonal treats without

derailing your diet. Here’s how.

BurgersYes, burgers can be part of a healthy eating plan. The key is to watch portion size and

make them from scratch, using quality meats with no more than 10 percent fat. If

your budget allows it, opt for grass-fed beef. When compared to conventional beef,

grass-fed beef not only tastes better, it also has less total fat, more heart-healthy omega-

3 fatty acids and more antioxidant vitamins. However, you don’t have to rely solely

on beef—or blow your budget—to create a healthy burger. Lean-ground turkey, lamb,

bison, pork and fish all make tasty and nutritious patties. In addition, the Internet

boasts a plethora of vegetarian burger recipes that even carnivores will love. To

enhance the nutritional profile of your lean ’n’ luscious patty, nix the mayo and top

it with condiments such as salsa, grilled fruits and veggies and avocado slices. Serve

your creation in a wholegrain bun and you’ve got a wholesome summertime meal. (For

a healthy burger experience when dining out, I recommend The Pink Bicycle and

Bubby’s Kitchen in Victoria.)

Hot DogsForget those pseudo-meat supermarket hotdogs. (Seriously, forget them.) There’s a new

breed of dog on show at your local meat market, and while it may never achieve

“superfood” status, it can be a healthy and reliable source of quality protein and

micronutrients. Several local meat shops are meeting consumer’s demands for health-

ier fare and creating filler- and preservative-free hotdogs made from 100 percent lean

beef, pork or poultry. Halal Meats and Deli, for instance, makes a superb version from

organic, grass-fed beef. If beef doesn’t appeal, consider the free-range turkey dogs

whipped up by the good folks at Slater’s. For traditionalists, there’s the 100 percent

antibiotic-, hormone- and gluten-free pork wiener on offer at Choux Choux

Charcuterie. Three exceptions to the supermarket rule: Island Bison’s “grass-fed bison

dogs”, Yves vegetarian tofu dogs and Tofurky’s Meatless Kielbasa—which make an

amazingly yummy “hot dog” for non-meat eaters that’s about the size of a smokie.

provide all-out nutrition without compromising on taste. Victoria’s top “restaurant

dog”—a deliciously seasoned, grass-fed beef creation—can be had at Bubby’s Kitchen.

Fruit PiesSadly, in addition to succulent taste, the average slice of fruit pie delivers an

abundance of calories, sugar and saturated fat. The antidote lies in giving your pies a

healthy makeover. Start by replacing the butter or lard most crust recipes call for with

heart-healthy canola oil. To further enhance your shell’s nutritional profile, opt for

fibre-rich wholewheat flour instead of refined white flour. Alternatively, to really curb

calories and fat, try wholewheat phyllo dough. It’s light and airy but still lends pies a

wonderful buttery “crunch.” And remember, whatever type of pastry you use, more

crust means more calories and fat—so opt for a bottom shell only. When it comes to

the filling, let the natural sweetness of summer fruit do the work. There’s no need to

be heavy-handed with the sugar. In fact, there’s no need to use sugar at all. You can

easily replace it with a healthier sweetener like honey, maple syrup or agave. Don’t fret

if pastry making simply isn’t in your skill set—some of B.C.’s best bakers have you

covered. I adore the healthy fruit pies (also gluten-free!) from Origin Bakery

(downtown and Colwood) and the Wendell’s in Langley supplies to stores all over BC. E

LOCATION The Hudson Building 1701 Douglas Street, VictoriaHOURS OF OPERATION Tues–Sat 10–5:30 Sun 11–5 Mon 10–5:30* *SELECT VENDORS ONLY

TIOHOURS OF OPERA ATION

The Hudson Building 1701 Douglas Street, VTIONLOCAATION

*SELECT VENDORS ONL 10–5:30* Mon 11–5Sun–Sat 10–5:30 ues TTION

ictoriaThe Hudson Building 1701 Douglas Street, V

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ictoria


Oak Bay may have the reputation for being the oldest neighbourhood in a cityalready considered antique. Nevertheless, in light of our growing interest inwhat we eat and where it comes from, this municipality has attracted the city’s

greatest density of butcher shops that are all hard at work taking the practice of meatcutting back from the commercial meat processing corporations. “In the last coupleyears I’ve seen a huge rise in people’s interest,” says Michael Windle, owner/operator ofthe Village Butcher. “In my lifetime, certainly in the last 40-45 years, the trendcommercially has been towards centralized production, factory farming, just a lot ofpoor, unsustainable methods … What we do now is way more old fashioned, but it’ssomehow new thinking again.” Standalone butcher shops pay their bills by turning entire animals into a vast array of

different products. Rather than a factory full of unskilled employees and dangerousmachines, a local butcher offers advice, options, and a guarantee of quality. These threeshops represent both the old and new school, and all of them offer the kind of unique,friendly, and knowledgeable experience you’ll seldom find elsewhere.

Slater’s First Class Meats, 2577 Cadboro Bay Rd. (250) 592-0823This shop has been around since 1954 and has had a number of owners, but all of

them have maintained the professional style and family atmosphere of the original.Spotless white shirts, ties, and crisp aprons add a sense of class that harkens back to the20th century. Most of the current staff has worked there for over a decade. “We’re on afirst-name basis with the majority of our customers,” says part owner Geoff Martin.“They come in, we’re asking about their families, they’re asking about ours, it’s a verytight-knit community.” Slater’s supplies some of Victoria’s most popular restaurants,including Brasserie L’Ecole, Café Brio, and Il Terrazzo, and the staff’s experience makesfor great shopping. “Whether it’s us or another local butcher shop, you’re getting a levelof expertise that’s higher than you’ll get at a larger store.”

Village Butcher, 2032 Oak Bay Ave. 250-598-1115Owner Michael Windle has been in the business for almost twelve years, the last four

in their current location. A training ground for culinary school graduates, Michael’s shopfocuses on supporting local, sustainable, and humanitarian animal husbandry. “I dealdirectly with farmers, I tell them what my customers expectations are for the animals’lifestyle, the animals’ diet, the farmer tells me what it’s gonna cost to do that, and thenI essentially promise to buy everything that farmer can produce,” he says. “My job isthen to ensure that these young trainees learn how to turn all of it into usable products.”The Village Butcher is also the place to go to explore new cuts and lesser-known partsof the animal: everything from pigs’ feet to underrated steaks.

The Whole Beast, 2032 Oak Bay Ave. 250-590-PORK (7675)Not a traditional butcher, Cory Pelan has spent the last four years running an artisanal

salumeria in the space he shares with the Village Butcher. “The main thing that separatesus from those guys is they sell fresh meat and we sell cured meat, ready to eat,” saysCory. “We’re just making the best stuff we can with the highest quality ingredients usingold world techniques.” The Beast is perfect for charcuterie plates or snacks for hiking orcamping, thanks to their handmade products, created with “natural smoke, passion,care, and attention” and without any fillers or unnecessary additives. Cory credits theneighbourhood with keeping his dream alive. “The neighbourhood’s been fantastic…Oak Bay really wants to believe in the businesses that are here, they know they’regetting the best that we can give them for a price that’s fair, that’ll allow us to still be heretomorrow, and allow them to go home with a good product.”


g CRAFT By Sol Kauffman

E

www.wickinn.comtel 1.800.333.4604

Meals are like the punctuation marks of a great trip. They give shape to the narrative of your

adventure. We encourage you to explore Tofino and then come visit us at the Wickaninnish

Inn to enjoy fresh baked pastries in the morning, a lovingly prepared picnic lunch, or a

dinner at The Pointe Restaurant that will put an exclamation point on your time here.

@TasteWickInnBC The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3106

LEAVE ROOM FOR THE WICK

On The Cutting EdgeOak Bay has the greatest density of butcher shops inthe city. Meet the butchers that keep the skills alive.

right: SLATERS MEATS: Left to right: Richard Doyle, AaronMacEachern, Cameron Doyle and Geoff Martin.middle: THE WHOLE BEAST: Shane Harwood, Nick McGee and Cory Pelan.right: THE VILLAGE BUTCHER: Owner/operator Michael Windle.

Sol Kauffman



A generous chopped flat-leaf parsley, capers and shallots salad proved more than just agarnish for beefy marrow bones at Le Boulingrin on the rue de Mars in Reims. I found outI like it as a stand-alone or sidled up to a grilled chicken thigh, pork loin chop or trout. And at Brasserie Flo, just a few minutes’ walk away, local lentils cooked to risotto-like

consistency and embellished with a poached golden-yoked egg was served chilled as adinner starter—brilliant with blanc de noirs champagne. But I filed that pairing under“Great brunch dish. Cheese and macarons to follow.”London’s Maltby Street Market is the place to stroll and street-eat these days. On a sunny

Saturday, my gustatory GPS takes me directly to 40 Maltby Street. The place is jammed.Peering over people’s heads to read the blackboard, I notice that parsley, this time unitedwith roasted cauliflower and crusty bread, is on the menu. Salt, sour, sweet and bitterfrom the mackerel, fennel and blood orange is a taste sensation and no word other than“delicious” describes a mix of Jersey royal potatoes, pea shoots and fresh curd. Back inVancouver, I stumble on a 2014 Guardian review of 40 Maltby Street by MarinaO’Loughlin, who waxes almost poetic on the eatery. She raves about “poached leeks withtiny shrimp paddling in an excellent, delicate, lemony mayonnaise.” Sorry I missed thatone. To market and fishmonger I go, so I can have a try at pulling it together. After an Italian sojourn a year ago, I went quite bonkers “making up” versions of

panzanella. Made from tomatoes at their juiciest, ripest peak, stale rustic bread and realextra virgin olive oil, this simple Tuscan bread salad is inarguably exquisite. I’ve grilledbread, charred and skinned red peppers (and sometimes grilled zucchini). I’ve also beenknown to add roasted olives or a knob of fiori di latte mozzarella to the mix. No doubtI’m guilty of panzanella heresy, but these added fillips make a darn fine salad.By all means, I will snip away at the cut-and-come-again greens in my garden for a nice

leafy salad over the summer. I also intend having a field day composing main eventsalads. I’m off to look for fresh tuna (instead of tinned) to sear for one of the season’sbest—Salade Niçoise. Ta-ra and bon appétit!(Lacking imagination? Fish out or find a copy of the 1983 Silver Palate Cookbook. No

fewer than 40 salads and 15 dressings should get the creative juices flowing.)

The Grand SaladJust say no to wimpy greens. Summer’s bountydeserves the “big salad” treatment.I’VE HAD MY FILL OF MOST CLAMSHELL GREENS. They are tasteless (were theyalways?), and after a couple of days, I get fed up picking out the wilted, slimy, smellybits. Unless I am using them immediately for a simple green salad anointed with lightvinaigrette, I depend on sturdier greens such as kale (hardly a surprise), savoy andgreen cabbages, arugula, chard, curly endive and flat-leaf parsley for making salads. I’veeven gone back to iceberg lettuce (wedged and dressed with homemade blue cheeseand diced bacon), butter lettuce (whole leaves layered, drizzled with mustardvinaigrette and scattered with chopped, hard-cooked egg and diced red onion), andromaine (I love it grilled, topped with Parmigiano shavings and a very garlickydressing). Often I’ll omit greens altogether and “compose” a crunchy salad from avariety of stuff—cucumber, zucchini, celery, carrot, pepper, tiny sweet tomatoes, beets,celeriac, corn, nugget potatoes, toasted bread and beans, chickpeas and lentils.On a recent trip to France and the U.K., I noshed on some terrific “composed” or

“grandes” salads. I intend to rip off or riff on making each one.There aren’t many tourists at Brasserie Le QG in Reims. And if there were, they might

pass on the salade de gésiers—tender chicken gizzards and nugget potatoes, warmlydressed and tossed amongst escarole leaves. Gizzards are difficult to come by in ourneck of the woods. I’m hoping a good butcher can supply me with a few. (If you’reexpecting Quebecois visitors, get them to pop a tin or cryovac pack of confit gizzardsinto their suitcase.) If not, substituting sautéed and sliced chicken livers should do thetrick. If the chicken’s nasty bits are a turnoff, go for sliced duck breast or sausage.

g FOOD MATTERS By Julie Pegg

E


AS I WRITE THIS IN THE BEGINNING OF MAY,my beautiful highbush and lowbush blueberrybushes are adorned with delicate white bell-shapedflowers. If all goes well, each little bell will become a blueberry, ready for harvestingin July and August. I won’t be sharing any berries with birds or deer. The bushes,tucked into their own acidic bed with pine needles and peat moss, are safely ensconcedwithin a netted enclosure, and deer can’t access my backyard. As the bushes progressfrom flower to fruit, I dream of delicious concoctions I’ll make with my sweet crop ofbeneficial berries.Blueberries have extraordinary healing properties because they contain ellagic acid

and two blue fruit pigments—anthocyanin and anthocyanoside. Anthocyanin andellagic acid have potent antioxidant actions. Anthocyanoside has antibacterial andanti-inflammatory effects and is a tonic for the circulation system. Eating blueberriescan help protect our hearts, eyes and brains.The sweet, sour and astringent tastes of blueberries are ideal for both sweet and

savoury dishes. I have two favourite ways of reducing blueberries down to theiruber-blueberriest essence. One is blueberry gastrique, which can be drizzled over porktenderloin, duck breast, chicken or fish. I combine two cups of blueberries, a cup ofbalsamic vinegar, a cup of brown sugar and a quarter of a cup of water in a saucepan,allowing the mixture to reduce over low heat for twenty to forty minutes until it coatsa spoon and is half its original volume. My other fave lip-smacking reduction is a glaze for basting barbecued spareribs. I

slow-cook seven cups of blueberries, half a cup of brown sugar, a cup each of balsamicand red wine vinegars, a bottle of stout, a smashed garlic clove, a sliced onion, achopped habanero pepper and a tablespoon each of coriander, cumin, ground coffee,and chipotle powder. After cooking the glaze over low heat for up to two hours, I pureeit (reserving some for serving) and brush it on the ribs while they are grilling.In keeping with my gluten-free and dairy-free diet, I’ll make raw vegan cashew blue-

berry cheesecake—the “cheese” is made from soaked raw cashews. Another annualsummer indulgence is blueberry coconut milk “ice cream,” a blend of blueberries,coconut milk and sugar whipped up in my ice cream maker. For breakfast, I’ll sipblueberry green smoothies, made with greens from my garden, and savour buckwheatflour blueberry pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup, and banana blueberryquinoa flour muffins. I’ll use some of my strawberry crop to make strawberry-blueberry jam, so I can enjoy the tastes of my summer garden through the winter.The rich flavour and seedless soft texture of blueberries really shines in baked

desserts. You can buckle, crumble, or crisp them, or use them to create scrumptiousclafoutis, galettes, blintzes, trifles and strudels. Their flavour mingles beautifully withsweet-tart strawberries and raspberries, sour-acidic lemons, sweet nectarines andpeaches, creamy mascarpone and clotted cream, and sour-tart goat cheese and sourcream. While the blueberries ripen from purple to deep blue, hazed with a silvery bloom,

I’ll be dreaming up new dishes to make with these sweet juicy berries.


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2 medium-sized beets, peeled and diced2 ¾ cups of blueberries4 cups of water2 Tbsp sugar1 Tbsp sugar½ cup red wine1 cinnamon stick½ tsp salt¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in a stock pot. Boil 20

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FIRST, LET ME TELL YOU ABOUT THE “MAN WHO WENT TO HELL”. He was thefood and beverage director for an internationally renowned luxe hotel chain. Oneday, he showed up at the Thai kitchen in the Bangkok property. Inspecting thepremises, he snatched a handful of tiny, innocent-looking red chilies. The kitchenbrigade pleaded for him to stop, but he overruled them and downed the lot. Two minutes later, he was sprawled on the floor, pounding and bawling. The offending nibble was prik ki nu (PKN), whose translation is “rat’s turd” chili

pepper. It’s so named, a Thai chef told me, not because of its aroma or taste, butbecause of its shape. Now that we’ve cleared that up, it’s also the fieriest chili inThailand and one of the two hottest chilies you’re likely to encounter.At Toronto’s venerable Golden Thai restaurant, I once ordered a Thai martini with

a single PKN marinating in the glass. I swear, flames shot out my mouth and nostrils.For the only time in my life, I was unable to finish a drink.Like most other chilies, this Thai sweetheart likely originated in the Peruvian Andes,

was transplanted to Europe by the Spanish and introduced to Southeast Asia by thePortuguese. The Thais have made it their own.In any restaurant in Thailand, the table condiment is prik nam pla, fermented fish

sauce scattered with chopped prik ki nu. The Westerner proceeds cautiously andenters a galvanizing realm all fire and flavour. Still hotter on the Scoville Scale—a system that measures and compares chili heat—

is the habanero. If the Thai chili can fire to 250,000 units on Scoville, the habanerocan soar to 350,000. That is, up to 140 times hotter than a jalapeño from a Victoriasupermarket.

It originated, of course, in the Andean hothouse, where archaeologists haveunearthed an 8,500-year-old habanero. In 1999, it made The Guinness Book of WorldRecords as hottest pepper in the world but has since been usurped: The championCarolina Reaper registers a nuclear 2,200,000 on the Scoville meter. Western forces inSyria might consider dropping it on ISIS. Foodies travelling in Mexico and Central America know the habanero, its slightly

floral aroma, somewhat citrusy flavour and unapologetic fire. Caribbean travellers will remember its cousin, the Scotch bonnet pepper, a variety

of habanero essential to racy Jamaican jerk and curry dishes. Maybe the most intimidating hot sauce, made in Costa Rica and using both

habaneros and Scotch bonnets, is aptly titled “One FucKin Drop At A Time Hot Sauce.” And yes, chili fire is addictive. Chilies contain capsaicin, a chemical that leaps from

mouth to brain. The body goes into defence mode by secreting endorphins, naturalpainkillers that bring on a certain high. We chili lovers will happily testify to this. Here in Victoria, habaneros have become so common you’ll find them at Root

Cellar, Thrifty Foods and other mainstream markets. The Markets on Yates andGoldstream have both habaneros and the Thai fire bomb. Local restaurants offer restrained introductions: The Caribbean Village Cafe in

Quadra Village uses Scotch bonnets in spicy chicken, curried patties and chutneys.Trini to D Bone on Burnside near Admirals chooses the habanero to sauce its rotis.The Reef on Yates uses habaneros to zap its house condiment, Miss Kitty’s Sauce, andin a hot-and-sweet marmalade accompanying coconut prawns.At home, we use Scotch bonnets to spike a rich, thick Jamaican pumpkin soup, ha-

baneros in Mexican sauces and PKNs in Southeast Asian curries.Finally a warning: wear gloves when you prep. Otherwise, oil from the peppers can

leech out into your fingers and palms. After prepping Scotch bonnets with unpro-tected hands, I hopped in the shower, where I proceeded to scratch myself in a specif-ically masculine way.My piteous falsetto cries rose over the shower curtains and roared through the halls.

I was The Other Man Who Went to Hell.

13

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Like a phoenix emerging from the ashes, the Italian Bakery, a mainstay in the community since1978, is back. After a kitchen fire closed the establishment for 14 months, the bakery has beenreborn with a fresh new face, a new kitchen and an expansive menu of savoury items to matchthe breads and sweets.Owner and head baker Alberto Pozzolo has taken on his family’s legacy, having trained in the

bakery alongside his father as a young child, plus stints baking and learning the art ofgelato-making in a small town near Torino in the Piedmonte, the region from which the familyhails. The year-plus closure allowed Pozzolo to properly plan the bakery’s redesign, source a newfour-deck oven and install a hood fan to accommodate deep frying and proper cooking. Thekitchen is now three-tiered: a section for savoury (including a pasta machine), one for pastry andcakes (with gelato machine), and one for breads. Fans will find all their favourite Italian breads, including focaccia, olive-studded loaves, ciabatta

(great for sandwiches) and panfiore, plus the addition of long fermented organic whole wheatand sourdough loaves. The Piedmonte region borders France and draws on French influences.Hence, you’ll find baguettes on offer (going by the name spilungone), as well as croissants andprofiteroles. The roster also includes a new daily lunch menu overseen by chef Paolo Corazza. His roots are

also in the Piemont region and he's no stranger to the Italian kitchen. He learned the trade, grow-ing up in Toronto, where his father, uncle and godfather all had restaurants. Corazza eventually

opened his own place, Brunello, in St. Petersburg Beach, Florida, before moving to Victoria 12years ago. Expect a daily soup, a very shareable multi-ingredient panini, specials like the classiceggplant parmigiana or Nonna’s meatballs, healthy salads of radicchio and fennel, daily pizzetteand paninettos (the Italian slider) filled with big flavoured ingredients such as pork confit,caramelized onions, brie and gorgonzola butter. Customers can take their treats home or settleinto one of the 25 seats to enjoy a casual lunch. On weekends, the bakery offers dinners for twoto go: two portions of fresh pasta with house marinara sauce, for example, is just cook, heat andcombine. And it comes with a baguette. All you need is a bottle of Sangiovese and you’re set!Nests of egg pasta and gnocchi are made in-house daily, and with a good selection of Italiancooking staples on the shelves, la dolce vita is never too far away. I particularly love the bakery’s traditional Italian cookie selection, elegant diminutive treats with

sweet names such as baci di dama (lady’s kisses) or brutti ma buoni (ugly but good), along withclassic cornetti, biscotti and cannoli—tube-shaped crispy fried pastry dough filled with sweetenedricotta cream. They’re the perfect size to accompany an espresso or two in the afternoon. Thebakery pulls their shots from a vintage Gaggia machine, fuelled by locally roasted 2% Jazzbeans. Further sweet tooth cravings are satisfied by tiramisu, classic chocolate cake with buttercream

icing, profiteroles or house-made gelato in 18 flavours from mouth-puckering lemon to silky smoothmango. As the phoenix rises, the legacy continues. BY SHELORA SHELDAN E

|3197 Quadra St., | 250-388-4557 | italianbakeryvictoria.com

Rebecca Wellm

an

Italian Bakery

left: Chef Paolo Corazza on the left and owner Alberto Pozzolo on the right.above: Cannelloni alla sorrentina

REPORTERRESTAURANTS | CAFES | SHOPPING


It’s a dream come true for sommelier Brooke Fader and chef Oliver Kienast. After running a series ofpop-up dinners under the Wild Mountain moniker and working in various restaurants over the years, mostrecently Sooke Harbour House, Wild Mountain Food & Drink has put down permanent roots in Sooke.The couple, who have lived and farmed in West Sooke for the past 10 years, purchased Markus’

Wharfside Restaurant, along with its adjoining one-bedroom home and established gardens. Theprevious owners, chef Markus Wieland and Tatum Claypool, enjoyed 12 successful years at thelocation and are now exploring their own paths (he in the Fraser Valley and Tatum in Saskatchewan). Very little was needed to get the restaurant up and running: a fresh coat of paint in pale blue to mimic

the outside sky views from the large picture window, a wooden bar— with resin tidal pool—from salvagedGrand fir, woven wood sconces and a turntable for playing vinyl. All have transformed the space intotheir own. “We wanted to make a place that we could hang out in five days a week,” says Fader, whooversees the front of house. Both are welcoming hosts and passionate advocates of food sustainability,which is reflected in a casual and locally focused menu of snacks, appetizers and mains that draw fromSooke area farms, including their own, sustainable seafood sources and meats from Sloping Hill Farmin Qualicum Beach.Theirs is an everyday kind of place where you can pop in for a quick bite at the bar, share a few

appetizers with a glass of wine or celebrate a special occasion with multiple courses. To explore themenu, we shared three appetizers. The Sooke clams in cider broth with housemade pork sausage,celery and fennel was a lovely start, followed by the duck plate trio of rillettes and jam, smoked breastand house pickled carrots, then duck liver mousse, an exploration of textures and techniques. So too,the albacore tuna appetizer of seared slices with an anise hit of sweet cicely alongside a crispybrandade with a cured egg yolk for added richness, and hand-chopped tuna tartare with radishes forcrunch. We ended with a main dish of grilled pork tenderloin served with a moreish cheese curd polenta,pickled red cabbage and brassica shoots. Kienast’s cooking is never heavy-handed; it’s skilled, creativeand balanced with an emphasis on fresh ingredients and simple combinations. The drinks list further reflects the couple’s sustainable commitment to Island craft brews, spirits and

sodas, and wines that are strictly small lots, handpicked and natural with low intervention. “If you’reSlow Food, you should be Slow Wine,” says Fader, a Slow Food leader and founding member of SlowFish. “Ollie’s food is gentle and nuanced,” she says, “and the wine is gentle and nuanced.” I couldn’tagree more. The Okanagan’s Synchromesh 2014 Riesling was a brilliant match for all the dishes weenjoyed. Luscious takeout treats such as duck liver mousse, chocolate pudding or Wild Mountain honey, sold

in mason jars, completes the dream. BY SHELORA SHELDAN


E

Wild Mountain Food & Drink 1831 Maple Ave., Sooke | 250-642-3596 | wildmountaindinners.com

left: Albacore tuna with sweet cicely, white anchovy, radish, and ling cod brandaderight: Owners Brooke Fader and Oliver Kienast

Rebecca Wellm

an

� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �


Farinata, schiacciatine, focaccia, panini—theseare just some of the authentic Italian breads andsavouries brought to you by Claudio Costi,originally from Milan and now, thankfully, fromVictoria. His name might ring a bell. For a whilehe was selling his breads at markets and deliver-ing to businesses from his bicycle. He now hasactual bricks and mortar in a charming nook atthe entrance to Fan Tan Alley from Pandora Street. Farinata is a delicious, moist and mealy

pancake made of chickpea flour, extra-virgin oliveoil and sea salt. You can transform it into an open-faced sandwich with arugula, tomato andgorgonzola, or other toppings. Schiacciatine arefresh-made crackers flavoured with sesame seed,paprika or rosemary, and sold by weight. For asnack or a lunch, my world shifted when I tried theFocaccia Farcita, light, paper-thin, flaky crusts

surrounding the explosive flavours of prosciuttocotto, tomato, mozzarella and oregano. Every-thing so far is under $5 for a single serving, andpanini sandwiches are not much more at $5.45. Acultural note: panini in Northern Italy are notgrilled, and so they are not grilled here. When thebread gets grilled there, it can be because thebread is old or frozen. However, your cheese canbe melted if you ask. My “carpaccio” sandwichfeatured a cured beef called bresaola, arugula,Parmesan and, intriguingly, a paper-thin slice oflime. The thin layer of fillings packed a flavourpunch thanks to their quality and intensity (most ofthe meats here are from The Whole Beast). Dainty pastries and rustic breads are also sold

here. The Sfilatino, made with figs and walnuts, iswonderful with cheese. La Tana is more than aplace for food—it is a cultural experience.


g EATING WELL FOR LESS By Elizabeth Monk

Panini, Perogies & Patties

Elizabeth Nyland

101-3 Fan Tan Alley at Pandora Ave. | 250-920-6213La Tana

Savoury lunchtime bites from far-off lands.

left: Owner/baker Claudio Costi right: Foccacina

760A Yates St. in Odeon Alley | 778-432-0133Stir It UpNatalie Justin-Tatem knows how to handle a mortar and pestle. She mixes her own spices for the

flavourful dishes at the Caribbean restaurant Stir It Up in the alley down from the Odeon theatre.Fernwooders will recognize the name. Stir It Up used to occupy a nook in Fernwood Square. It has nowexpanded while still retaining the colourful décor and coziness of its previous incarnation. It seats only12, but takeout and catering business is brisk. The classics she ate in her childhood in St Lucia are allhere. The Stuffed Patty with Pork is only $2.50 and is different from the usual. It is sliced open like asandwich and has both ground beef and spicy chunks of pork—and plenty of them, I must say. This is notjust a smear of meat like some disappointing patties I’ve had in the past. The seasonings are lively, withthyme, peppercorn, allspice, garlic and plenty of onions and ginger. The spice mix gets even moreexciting in the Jerk Chicken with Rice and Peas, which goes for $11. Here she blends paprika, curry

Cont’d next page

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland

***Listen to Elizabeth Monk on Kool 107.3 radio at 8:30am, Monday July 6th


Chris Zmuda of Taste of Europe Deli has thepackaging for some Cheemo brand perogiestacked to the wall near his cash register, with a bigangry X across it in thick red felt-tip marker. This isa man who takes his perogies seriously. Some maycall him passionate on the topic. Some may callhim downright irascible. But the bottom line is thathe makes good perogies served in generousportions. A plate of four perogies plus Polishsausage goes for $8. These perogies are plump

and pillowy and double the size of theaforementioned unmentionable ones. Since sizedoes matter, we’re talking three inches on thestraight side. I chose potato and cheese filling, butthere are several other variations, involving pork,onions, mushrooms and sauerkraut. The firm andflavourful sausage comes from a Polish smoke-house on the mainland, along with other meats hesells at the deli counter. Some of the plates include soup, or soup can

be bought separately for $3.50 or $4.99. Try thesauerkraut soup—it has the same perfect sournessbalance as a good Chinese hot and sour soup,with big bites of beef and cabbage in it. ChrisZmuda vaunted this soup as capable of trimmingbelly fat, which is probably a good thing since I’venever known green vegetables to figureprominently in East European cuisine. For dessertor a (very) decadent dinner, the sweet cheesecrêpes are two for $6.99 and stuffed with a sweet-ened dry farmer’s cheese and blueberries, thentopped with strawberry jam and whipped cream.There is plenty of food in the store freezer tosimply heat up at home, most intriguing of which isthe Pickle Soup, which I will defrost next time I amopening up a package of Cheemo … no! Justkidding! Don’t tell Chris.

Owner/cook Chris Zmuda

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland


1412 Douglas St. near Johnson | 778-432-4898Taste of Europe Deli

left: Fried Plantains, black beans and rice with chicken gravy, jerk chicken thigh,sautéed fresh vegetables right: Colourful decor.

OLO is a farm-to-table restaurant with a focus on local, sustainably raised ingredients, complemented by an

impressive beverage list and perfectly mixed cocktails.

Open seven days a week & late nightSunday to Thursday 6pm – 12amFriday and Saturday 5pm – 1am

509 Fisgard Street, Victoria, BC(250) 590-8795 | www.olorestaurant.com

leaves, thyme, jerra (cooked cumin), cinnamon, nutmeg and, her special twist, essential oils of allspiceand nutmeg. This is rubbed and cooked on the chicken, which is beautifully crisped up and served withfried plantain as well as rice. The yellow sauce that comes with it is complex and uninhibited,containing four different hot peppers picked from Justin-Tatem’s own garden. In the category of massive as well as tasty is the Curry Chicken Roti for $10. This roti/pancake, made

with coconut oil, is toasted, giving the meal an enjoyable crunch. Inside is both a potato curry and achicken curry, and the accompanying tamarind chutney has tingles of nutmeg and ginger. Fridays andSaturdays are the days for the more exotic specials of curry goat, oxtail and the like. Do try the gingerjuice, and do phone ahead for the hours as they are in transition.



Far East Feasts

The People’s Republic of China encompasses a diverse and vast landscape, fromforest to desert to sub-tropical regions, all reflecting a depth of regional culinarydifferences, traditions, ingredients and cooking styles. While Victoria can’t

compete with Richmond’s Asian culinary offerings (everything from strip mall noodlejoints to palatial banquet rooms) there is an adventure of taste waiting right here athome. Here are five of my favourite rooms: some are new with modern décor, otherscelebrate food over décor, but they all offer a glimpse into China’s culinary diversitythat’s guaranteed to whet your appetite and pique your palate’s curiosity. It’s foodcooked with passionate honesty and a lot of soul. And it doesn’t get any better thanthat.

Hong Kong WestThe location, near a busy street cornernear the Royal Jubilee Hospital, andminimalist signage, means I’d driven by itcountless times, as I’m sure you have. ButI had long heard about the authenticSichuan dishes being served by the Lifamily, and I was ready to dig in – butwhat to order? With little description onthe menu, I learned to hone in on whatother diners are eating. One of myfavourites is the fish hotpot, a shareable,multi-layered dish with an earthy, soul-satisfying broth hidden beneath a tangleof bean sprouts and fish. Add to that,intensely fragrant and citrusy Sichuanpeppercorns and an inferno of groundchile oil to fire the taste buds, and youhave heaven in a bowl. Speaking of thecelestial, the dark red plum-shaped“facing heaven” chile pepper is distinct toSichuan cuis ine, and it’s featured front

and centre on many dishes here. The crispy chicken, for example, presented with alustre of chile oil, and a seeming overdose of those chiles, whole or in large pieces, canproduce fear to the uninitiated. But their flavour imparts brightness and only a mildwarming heat. (Take note: You’re not expected to eat them!) The vegetable dishes areas intriguing as they are delicious: classic Sichuanese shredded potatoes, tossed invinegar and a bit of chile, maintain their crunch with no starchiness, and the flash-fried green beans with a fermented relish of olive leaves and mustard greens add anaddictive hit of umaminess. This is the real deal.

1807 Fort St., 250-598-1352

La Tea Ah/Lee’s House RestaurantTwo distinct rooms offer a wonderful selection of home cooked Taiwanese cuisine.The cozy bright green La Tea Ah Fort Street interior suggests snack bar with few tablesand bar seating, versus the expansive Lee’s House room with outdoor patio thataccommodates families and groups of students from nearby UVic. Bubble tea, aTaiwanese invention, features prominent, and dishes such as sauce pork over rice,minced pork with pork belly flavoured with five-spice and soy, and beef noodle soup

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Food writer Shelora Sheldan goes in search ofauthentic Chinese flavours, sampling everythingfrom Shanxi flatbreads and Sichuan fish hotpots torustic Taiwanese dumplings and classic Cantonesecomfort foods along the way. Photos by Rebecca Wellman

Szechuan Chicken



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are traditional and immensely popular,but it’s the Lee family’s homemadedumplings that have garnered a cultfollowing. Three thousand of these buoy-ant, northern-style beauties are made, byhand, every week by owner Angela Lee’sparents. The dough is flour and water, leftto rest, then kneaded and rolled out intoindividual rounds, ensuring that themiddle remains thicker than the outeredges so as to securely hold theingredients. Filled with either choppedNapa cabbage and pork, beef with Chinesechives, or minced pork, prawns andcelery, they’re made with carefulprecision, boiled to order and served witha drizzle of sesame oil and a soy dippingsauce enhanced with toasty flecks ofgarlic. Potstickers, also housemade, arenot the usual crescent shape here butfashioned lengthwise with open ends.They’re cooked and seared with a bit of

stock and rock sugar to impart a caramelized crust. Welcome to your new addictions!774 Fort St., 250-590-4150 (teahouse); 3960 Shelbourne St., 778-432-2111 (restaurant)

Xiang RuiOwners and cooks Owen Guo and Maggie Ma hail from northern Shanxi province,famed for its wide rice noodle dishes and flatbreads, among other things. The coupleoffers an extensive menu with many Cantonese favourites, but their regional dishesare a big draw. The wide rice noodle salad, served cold, is beautifully presented with

cucumber and bean sprouts in a chile oil and vinegar dressing—deliriously refreshingwith a surprisingly even gentle heat. This is one of my new summertime go-to dishes.Their housemade yeasted flatbreads, listed on the menu as “Chinese Hamburgers,”are sliced and stuffed with your choice of meat. I’ve tried all three: the chicken,seasoned with cumin and hints of clove; the pork with a good balance of juicy meatand fatty bits; and thin sliced beef with a distinct salty hit along with five-spiceseasoning. Service is informed and gracious.

980 Blanshard St., 778-433-3696

Shrimp Dumpling and Pork Pot Stickers.

left: Rice Noodle with Vegetables and Chinese Pork Hamburger. right: Owners Maggie Ma and Owen Guo

Cont’d on the next page



250-382-9258 VISTA18.COM740 Burdett Ave, Inside the Chateau Victoria

The best sunsets don’t happen at street level.

- R E S E R V E N O W-

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40 B7740 Bur250-382-9258 iaoricteau VChat

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Loy Sing Meat MarketWhole barbecued ducks and whole roastsof pork, proudly displayed in the window,are two of the mainstays of this China-town purveyor with a 130-year history.Owners Daniel and Shelley Zheng haverun Loy Sing since 1994 after Daniel hadbeen a co-owner with Shelley’s uncle.Along with fresh cuts of pork, of the nose-to-tail variety, the Zhengs prepare dailystews, popular Cantonese dishes that arehearty and deceptively simple. Case inpoint: my favourite stew of tender beefflank and tendon in a dark, honey-coloured sauce relies on a long braise witha complex spice mix, including driedorange peel, licorice root, ginger, hoisin,Shaoxing cooking wine, soy sauce, staranise and fennel seeds. Other classicsinclude soy sauce duck wings, soy saucepig’s ears (very tender by the way) and, onoccasion, goat stew. I’ve also enjoyed the

sticky rice in bamboo leaves, a family recipe that is most often made savoury. Once ayear, however, the Zhengs break out the sweet variety in celebration of DragonFestival. While many prefer takeout, I like to take comfort sitting at one of the kitchentables at the back of the shop.

554 Fisgard St., 250-383-9934

Heart of AsiaBlack uniformed wait staff match the black interior of this hip new space, anotherpopular student hangout for Sichuan fare. The adventurous menu delves deep intoorgan meats, lamb, mutton and even frog. Duck cooked at table sees tender pieces ofmeat on the bone in a thick rich broth redolent of chile, star anise and vibrant greengarlic stems. A Sichuan technique of boiling meat is evident in a dish of spicy beefwith red chile and bean sprouts served in a signature infused oil of “secret spices.”Bowls of steamed rice are welcome companions. Infused oils are the backbone of many

dishes at Heart of Asia, including one of oil-poached potato slices served withseaweed, cauliflower and sesame seeds. Some of the “secrets” were revealed to becloves, cassia bark and Sichuan peppercorns.

1640 Cedar Hill X Rd., 778-432-3700

Shelley Zheng with bbq duck

left: Chef Steve Li right: SauteedBullfrog in Chili Sauce (the biggerbowl) & Spam,Fungus & Chili OilHot Pot



We invite a new chef, mixologist or brewmaster from a nearby community and pair them with a talented local host, delivering a truly unique dining experience on the third Sunday of each month.

Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com

E A T M a g a z i n e a n d T h e L e f t C o a s t p r e s e n t :

A dinner series aboutcollaboration on the West Coast.

farupscottreal estate

'The Gulf Islands Showcase'Pilgrimme | Galiano Island

Salt Spring Island Cheese | Salt Spring IslandSea Star Vineyards | Pender Island

Catalano 6:00 PM

AU

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ST 16TH

'The Tapa Crawl' Misconduct Wine Co.| Penticton

A three venue walking dinnerChorizo & Co. | Perro Negro | Bodega

6:00 PM

JULY 19TH

BODEGA

res taurant c i cche t t i bar

D E L I V E R I N G T H E P E R F E C T P O U R F O R Y O U R S P E C I A L E V E N T

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W I T H A D R A U G H T W I S E G LY C O L C H I L L I N G S Y S T E M

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P K S O U N D S Y S T E M A A I L A B L E

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FA R M E R S ’ M A R K E T S B E E R G A R D E N S F E S T I VA L S

W E D D I N G S CO R P O R AT E F U N CT I O N S F U N D R A I S E R S

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I G O W H E R E I 'M TOW E D !

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www. cavavictoria.com 250.590.7982

M O D E R N F I N E D I N I N G

What’s on your plate this evening?

EAT WELL. HAVE FUN.

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Creating punches and jugs is thesimplest way to prepare drinks in bulk foryour guests. It can be done in advance,ensuring you’re not chained to themakeshift bar inside your house. Thereare classic definitions for punches usingrules for sweet, sour, strong and weak andthe universally used oleo saccharum (amix of citrus peel and fine sugar).Modern punches can be made fromwhatever you like, thrown into a bowl orjug, as long as it’s balanced and fun. The general rule of thumb with

punches (which really applies to allcocktails) is one part sour, two of sweet,three of strong and four of weak. Thestrong element of your punch is, ofcourse, the liquor; the weak is usually tea,sparkling water or wine. The sweet and

sour are self-explanatory—usually citrusor a sweetener of some sort. Using theserules for your everyday cocktailing is agreat tool, but when you need to create alarge batch of something for your guests,it is invaluable. Preparing a jug of cocktails, chilling

and storing before your party is the bestplan for seamless entertaining. Jugs canbe mixed and placed in the fridge untiladding the ice in individual glasses(mojitos are amazing for this), punchescan also mixed ahead of time and thenpoured over large chunks of ice in bowlsfor chilling and dilution, and spirit-for-ward cocktails can have water added tothem and chilled for easy pour whenguests arrive. E

Colin Hynes

g COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH —By Shawn Soole

12 oz gin18 mint leaves 6 oz lime juice 4 oz simple syrup 2 bottles of 275 ml Fentiman’s Ginger Beer

Pour gin, mint, lime juice and simple syrup into ajug and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes. Beforeserving add ice and stir to equally distribute themint. Pour into a rock glass filled with ice and topwith ginger beer.

GIN-GIN MULE Makes a two-litre jug.

The Summer Bartender

S U M M E R

O C E A N W I S E TM L O I S L A K E S T E E L H E A D,S US TA I N A B LY H A RV ES T E D PR AW N S, R E D O N I O N S,

T H A I B A S I L , M I N T, C I L A N T R O, N U O C C H A M

cevichefeaturing

Making up a punch or a jug of cocktails before theguests arrives allows you to join in the party.

It is the height of summer,barbecues are smoking,bikinis and board shorts are

in ample supply and the patioentertaining season is in fullswing. Entertaining in your back-yard shouldn't be a chore,especially when it comes toserving your guests someamazing cocktails.


E

g TOP 5 —By Gillie Easdon


FOR EXPERTSKINCARE, THE DOCTOR IS MARK LUP IN

250.598.3300 | COSMEDICA.CA

Cold Comfort Autumn Maxwell’s ice cream creations are rich, sometimes surprising and always decadent. She has pintsand sandwiches, cakes and a makes a strong case for ice cream served in a cup; no cones. “It’s a nocone zone. We don’t have the space. I won’t have them if they aren’t perfect.” Thus spoke Maxwell. Herfastidious allegiance to high quality and flavor appeals to the purist in me. The Papaya, Black Pepperwith Balsamic and Blackberry was bright and spiced and unexpected. The Vegan Chocolate, SourCherries with Cacao Nibs was deceptively lush and but the Local Strawberry Cream with Angel WaterButter Cookies was incredible. Picture the first local strawberry you ever tasted and then improve thatmemory. Cold comfort is my pick for integrity and also the sandwiches hold in the cold a bit, if you needto drive to a beach with them. (coldcomfort.ca)

Kid SisterEvery time I go into Kid Sister I kick myself for having waited so long to return. Brett Black and his teammake everything onsite, from syrups for sodas to milkshakes to paletas to slushies to floats to cones.Paletas, a Mexican version of popsicles, are noted for being more fresh in flavor than “hummingbirdfood” sweet. I enjoyed the Roasted Rhubarb and Vanilla Creamsicle paleta, which I want to buy a messof to serve after a hearty summer barbecue. I also perked up with the tart, lime-tastic but veiled ingorgeous coconut cream of the Coconut Lime paleta. Kid Sister wins for delicious and most inspiring toinclude as dessert or a good palate cleanser. Apparently the apple paletas are also popular at festivalsfor dipping into a beer. Yum! (kidsister.ca)

Fol EpiI did not like soft serve ice cream. I didn’t get it. That was until today at Fol Epi. The organic vanilla beansoft serve in a housemade waffle cone with stewed rhubarb and caramel sauce changed me. The conewas delicate and sweet, but light. The rhubarb was a nice counterpoint to the caramel and it wasperfect. Other toppings available are chocolate, hazelnuts, almonds and strawberry. Fol Epi wins forredefining or refining the institution of soft serve and nailing the house made waffle cone. (folepi.ca)

Jacksons Ice CreamFriends visiting or looking for something fun to do today? Go to Fisherman’s Wharf. Fish and Chips andJackson’s Ice Cream. It is always pumping in the summer, with the buskers, seals and houseboats, smellof the deep fryer entwined with Moose Tracks ice cream, so good. The ice cream and frozen yogurt areIsland Farms. Jackson’s Ice Cream wins for being part of an integral Victoria experience.(fishermanswharfvictoria.com)

Ottavio Italian Bakery & DeliGelato and Sorbetto: Fior di Latte (cream), Torrone (cream and nougat) Zabaglione (custard) are a fewof the Italian standards. Ottavio has them all. Ottavio’s roots go back to Torino, Italy, where Ottavio’sNonno and Nonna had a pasticceria, bar and gelateria for 40 years. Their organic and local fruitgelato is straight up beautiful. Ottavio wins for best classic styles and they have three sizes of take-homecontainers. Fantastico! (ottaviovictoria.com)

Did we miss one of your favourites? Let us know by posting a comment on our Facebook page

(www.facebook.com/EATmagazine).

Cold CallOur five top picks for satisfying your ice cream urge.

Summer and frozen

pleasures go hand in

hand. There’s nothing

wrong with gelato in the

winter, but it lacks the

race-pace of devouring

something gorgeous in

the sun before it melts.

Here are my top five, in

no particular order.


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They say a change is as good as a rest. On Salt Spring you can enjoy both: stroll oceanside or wooded walking trails,kayak the coast-line or simply recline on the deck with a great book or glass of local wine. Then head into Gangeswhere you’ll discover new, carefully curated, shops and galleries. Explore the lively Saturday Market with its artisanalcheeses, breads and many hand-made crafts. Refresh your body with a spa visit or balance the soul with a yoga class.Take a trip over the sea and find more time to relax ...treat yourself!

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26 EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

LOCAL KITCHENg

Meat the New Steak Frites Say bonjour to modern bistro bliss.



27

BUTTER-BATHED RIB-EYE STEAKResist the urge to throw these on the grill. Rib-eyes were made for a cast-iron pan, but if the siren call of thebarbecue beckons, so be it. Just skip the butter part. See what you’re missing out on? Serves 4.

24-oz bone-in rib-eye steak – about 1½ to 2-in thick2 tsp each fennel, mustard and coriander seeds1 tsp black peppercornsKosher salt, lots½ tsp oil3 Tbsp unsalted butter3 to 4 whole thyme sprigs

Crush fennel, mustard, coriander seeds and peppercorns. Blend with generous pinches of salt. Rub all over steak.Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, place steak, fatty cap-side down. You may

need tongs to hold the meat in place. Sear until well-browned and some fat renders. Flip over, searing both sidesof meat, about 2-3 minutes per side. Remove meat from pan. Discard drippings and wipe clean (don’t wash).Reduce heat to medium. Add butter and thyme to pan Once the thyme starts to sizzle, add beef. Continue to cook,

flipping steak (occasionally. Using a spoon, baste steak often with butter until cooked to desired doneness. Aim for125°F for medium-rare. This may take up to 15-18 minutes, depending on thickness of meat. Use a thermometerto check for accuracy.Remove steak to a cutting board and let stand 8-10 minutes, then slice meat from bone. Serve with charred lemon

wedges and drizzle with Dreamy Anchovy Sauce.

DREAMY ANCHOVY SAUCEThe big punchy flavour of this sauce stands up to a rich cut of beef.

14 to 16 salted anchovy fillets, rinsed¼ cup olive oil1 large garlic clove, finely chopped¼ cup fresh lemon juiceHandful chopped parsley or cilantroPinches of red chili flakes

Chop anchovies. Place in a small frypan and add oil and garlic. Cook slowly over medium-low heat untilanchovies break down and melt into sauce. Stir often, mashing anchovies against side of pan to help crush them.Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice, parsley and chili flakes. Taste, add more chili if needed (it should havea little bit of kick). Drizzle over steaks.

MIXED FRITESThere’s a reason fries taste better at a restaurant—the deep fryer! This home-fried version still delivers, and ovenroasting is a delicious (and easier) option too. Serves 4.

1-2 large Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled and cut into thin batons1 large yam or sweet potato, peeled and cut into thin batonsCornstarchVegetable oil¼ cup each chopped parsley and crumbled blue cheeseSea salt, pinches

Blanch Yukon gold batons in salted boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain. Coat yam batons in cornstarch andset aside.To fry, half-fill a large deep pan with oil over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, work in batches and fry

potatoes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, remove as cooked to a tray lined with paper to absorb excess oil. Adjustheat to medium as needed.If roasting, heat two large oiled baking sheets in oven while preheating to 425°F. Toss blanched Yukon gold

batons with a little more oil, then spread out on one of the hot baking sheets. Spread out yam batons on the other.Roast, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 15 minutes. Turn into a bowl and toss with parsley, blue cheeseand salt.

This updated version of the French bistro classic keeps the classic base butadds a contemporary twist. Big beefy entrecôte (a.k.a. rib-eye) stilldelivers a rich fatty slap but gone is the syrupy, reduced wine sauce infavour of an umami-rich anchovy experience. A side of slender frites isstill a must—especially with yams and creamy blue cheese mingled in.

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28 EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 201528 EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2015

Après-steakit's free form!

no pie plate needed

pick freshfrom the garden



AFTERNOON BERRY GALETTE Pie tastes best on a sunny afternoon, eaten for no other reason than pureenjoyment. You never really need a reason to eat pie, right?

Dough11/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp palm sugarPinch of sea salt¾ cup cold butter, cut into cubes2½ Tbsp cold lard or vegetable shortening¼ cup ice water

Filling4 cups mixed berries½ cup palm sugar1 Tbsp cornstarch3 Tbsp marmalade1 Tbsp milkCoarse sugar, optional2 Tbsp panko bread crumbs1 tsp cinnamon

Whipped cream Lemon verbena (optional)

For the dough, whirl flour, sugar and salt in a food processor. Add butter andlard, then pulse just until crumbs form. Continue to pulse while graduallyadding water just until dough comes together. Turn onto a floured counter andform into a ball. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.Preheat oven to 400°F. In a bowl, toss berries with sugar and cornstarch. Once

dough has rested, roll into a large circle, then trim so it’s about 14 in wide. Placeon a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.Using the tip of a knife, trace a 9-in circle in the centre of the dough. Spread

jam over circle, then cover with crumbs. Sprinkle with cinnamon, then addberry mixture. Fold pastry over, just to cover the edge of the fruit, creating a free-form tart.

Brush pastry with milk, then sprinkle with coarse sugar, if using.Place in oven and reduce temperature to 375°F. Bake until pastry is golden and

fruit is bubbly, 35 to 40 minutes.Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature, then serve with

whipped cream. Sprinkle with leaves of lemon verbena.

Text, recipes by JENNIFER DANTERFood styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES




KEEP YOUR FORK—There’s PieThese sweet or savoury pastry delights are making a well-deserved comeback.

Some of my fondest memories are associated with pie.Cutting into my mother’s shatteringly flaky crust to get at the tart, cinnamon apples inside. The treat of saskatoon pie madewith berries we’d picked in prairie coulees. The fall fruit and pumpkin pies lined up on tables at fowl suppers in the churchbasement. My grandmother, never one to waste a scrap of food, rendered pork fat to make lard for her perfect pies—with the bonus of

cvarci, the crispy cracklings that are the Balkan equivalent of scrunchions or chicharónes, and still a guilty pleasure I cannotresist. (cont’d on the next page)

Story by Cinda Chavich

Rebecca Wellm

an

Susannah Ruth Bryanholding one of herstrawberry pies



Back in FashionOnce mastered, pie is simple—easy as pie, as they say—but it fell out of fashion in the

fat-phobic years. Instead of butter and lard, the key to perfect pâte brisée and flaky shortcrusts, we embraced watery margarine and hydrogenated vegetable oils, fats that are badfor both our health and our pies.Thankfully, we know more about fats today, and pies are popular again, says local

pastry maven Susannah Ruth Bryan, even for special events like weddings. In fact,according to New York wedding planner Fallon Carter, pie is one of the hottest weddingtrends for 2015, from farm-to-table fruit pies to medieval-style Bride Pies, towers ofrustic, multi-tiered meat pies for country nuptials. Bryan, the baker behind the beautiful pies, cakes and other creations at Victoria’s Ruth

& Dean, makes her sweet pies to order and says they are the kind of comforting dessertsthat use up whatever is in season—whether her deep dish strawberry pie with rustic oatcrumble or a puckery lemon pie. Says Bryan. “You can make a pie from whatever youhave lying about.”Which may be why pie is popular in the Zero Waste world of small, family farms.

Pig to PieAt Omnivore Acres, Jim and Catherine Gowans grow vegetables, and raise chickens

and pigs for their weekly food boxes. It’s a classic mixed farm and a closed system, withthe vegetable scraps going to their free-ranging animals that eat well and give back tothe soil in a perfect “circle of life.”Omnivore’s organic pork also goes to Geoff Pinch at Four Quarters Meats and comes

back as smoky charcuterie. Pinch renders the lard Catherine uses in the pastry for herseasonal fruit pies, available by special order from the farm, and on the menu at theirsummer farmhouse suppers.

“Pie is my real passion,” says Catherine, who uses garden rhubarb, wild berries andheritage Gravenstein, Spy and King apples from Salt Spring Island. Baking with lard fromtheir own pigs has been a revelation.“It’s very soft compared to commercial lard because the fatty acid profile is so

different for these free-range pigs, much higher in healthy monounsaturated fats thancommercially fed animals,” she says of the pigs that eat grass and vegetables and arefinished on apples.It’s not surprising to learn Catherine has won prizes for her perfect pies. The blueberry

and tayberry creation she sets before me—oozing sweet juices under a woven latticetop—is a stunner.She admits it took time to perfect her pastry but, like me, she relies on a popular

“no-fail” recipe of lard, flour, egg, cold water and vinegar, with a spoonful of bakingpowder to lift the layers.“My mother could make a pie in 15 minutes,” she says. “It really is easy.”

Fancy FatsAnyone can make lard at home. Just start with good leaf lard or back fat from your

favourite pork producer, cook it long and slow until you have clear, rendered lard andcracklings. Some say it’s best to cook the fat with a little water to keep the temperaturelower and prevent browning. You can do it in the oven, on the stovetop in a deep stockpot or in a slow cooker to keep the process low and slow. Strain out the crunchy bits,portion and store in the freezer.“Grate it on a cheese grater or chop it and cook it for four to six hours,” says Bryan,

proffering a jar of creamy, white, home-rendered lard, a precious fat she saves for biscuitsand special pies. Evelyn Periera of Terra Nossa Organic Farm in Mill Bay sells lard rendered from her

organic pastured pigs directly from the farm or at the Moss Street Market. SumasMountain Farms in Abbotsford raises pastured pork and sells its backfat in four-poundpackages ($4/pound), that you can render at home. Or ask for lard at Oak Bay’s VillageButcher.Like duck fat, natural lard is high in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, and

not too high in the “bad” saturated fats. It’s very different from the shelf-stablecommercial lard and shortening found in supermarkets, which are both hydrogenated,a process that creates the dreaded trans fats, the source of heart-stopping cholesterol.But any lard, when compared with butter, is actually a healthier choice. Lard has 40

percent saturated fat vs. 60 percent saturates in butter, and twice the percentage of“good” monounsaturated fats.“It’s very rich in Vitamin D and healthy monounsaturates, just a great fat,” says Bryan.Most of her pies are made with a combination of partially hydrogenated shortening

and butter to appease vegetarians, but Bryan will make pies with lard for customers onrequest. Freshly rendered lard is lovely for baking, frying potatoes and fried chicken, orspreading on a baguette (with the cracklings intact, à la Italian lardo).

Easy As PieIt’s hard to know where the saying “easy as pie” comes from, with so many of us still

petrified of making pastry. Pastry is a simple combination of fat, flour and water (maybeegg), but it’s a skill that takes some practice to perfect.Some bakers use pastry flour, with less gluten, for a tender crust, but the fat is really

the key to the crust you’ll end up with. In his book How to Read a French Fry, Russ Parsons goes deep into the science of

making pastry—an entire chapter aptly titled “Fat, Flour and Fear.” It’s the fat thatprevents gluten strands from forming in the pastry, he says. When the fat is combinedwith the flour (just until it’s reduced to pea-sized bits), it leaves air-filled gaps in thepastry as it bakes and melts. That’s the secret to flaky pastry and why you must use a solidfat, whether butter, lard or shortening.“Lard can be the best fat for a pie crust because its fat crystals are larger and will

create greater flakiness,” he writes. “Butter is highly saturated, so its shortening poweris lower.”While Parsons says commercially rendered lard can taste bad and pastry made with

butter has “superb flavour,” it must be chilled before baking or it will be tough. Home-made lard is soft and must be well-chilled, or even frozen, before making pastry.Working the dough too much will develop too much gluten in the flour and result in

tough pastry—so work with a light hand.The rustic single-crust pie, or tart, is the easiest. Roll out the pastry on a piece of parch-

ment, fill the middle with fruit, dust with flour or cornstarch and sugar, and fold thedough over the filling for a free-form pie that doesn’t even require lifting the pastry intoa pie plate. If you use a shallow tart pan with a removable bottom, just press a crumblyshort pastry into the pan before baking it blind (filled with pie weights or beans) and fill-ing with a creamy custard or fruit topping.Tricks of the trade? Gowans puts a cookie sheet in the oven while she preheats it, then

makes sure the pastry-lined pan is well-chilled when she places it on top. Bryan says thetrick to great pastry is keeping everything ice cold.“Freeze the butter or fat and grate it with a box grater,” she says. “Use a pastry cutter

and barely touch it. Roll out on a cold surface, ice water and chill or freeze the pastry wellbefore rolling.”

To Everything, a SeasonPastry chefs and bakers are offering beautiful pies, whether rustic free-form pies,

portable hand pies or classic double-crust pies of tart apples, fresh peaches or dark berriesin summer, and lemon, pumpkin and mincemeat in winter. Pie shops are eclipsing cupcake shops. Victoria Pie Co. offers both sweet and savoury

pies, stuffed with spinach and feta or banana cream. At farm shops like Oldfield Orchard& Bakery, they bake fruit pies (and meat pies) on site, too—a strawberry pie is a greatexcuse for a country drive. Or visit Bubby Rose’s Bakery/Café for a slice of pie, even awhole pie to bake at home.There’s a connection to pie that evokes childhood memories. It’s part of the farm-to-

table trend and a vehicle to showcase the season’s freshest local fruits. But pies alsoconnect us to our past, a dish with British roots equally at home at a barbecue or abanquet.And whether you’re a visiting royal or an average Joe, it’s always wise to keep your

fork, just in case there’s pie! Visit eatmagazine.ca for Cinda’s No Fail Pastry (with Lard) & How to Build a Fruit Pie.

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Ruth & Dean Baked Goods: ruthanddean.comOmnivore Acres: bcfarmsandfood.comTerra Nossa Organic Farm: terranossa.caSumas Mountain Farms: sumasmountainfarms.ca



Special Eat PromotionPRESENTED BY

T H E O A K B A Y

FOODTRAIL

Meet the chefs, bakers, butchers and shopkeepers. Explore the shops, restaurants and cafés.

MEET THE MAKERS: left to right Jeff Keenliside (Marina Restaurant), Geoff Martin (Slaters), Maria Elwood (Crumsby’s), Emily Mathison(Vis-a-Vis), Mathew Floesser (Village Butcher), Shamus McDougall (Pure Vanilla), Cheryl Schultz (Chery’s Gourmet Pantry), AndrewMoyer (Ottavio), Cory Pelan (The Whole Beast), Robert Budlong (Oak Bay Beach Hotel). Photographed at Willows Beach by Rebecca Wellman.



Imoved to Oak Bay in the early 1990s after living in the country for fifteen years. Iwanted to find a place to live that was as peaceful and beautiful as my acreage nearthe ocean had been. My house and garden, on a tree-lined street near the ocean, isas quiet an oasis as I hoped it would be.

I often think Oak Bay is a “Pollyanna” kind of town. I’ve had wonderful neighbours,and whenever I go for a walk or do errands in Oak Bay Village, people smile at oneanother and treat each other with warmth and courtesy. Walking along the ocean nearMcNeil Bay, with the stunning backdrop of the Olympic Mountains, past the twodonated Adirondack chairs perched on McMicking point, always inspires feelings of aweand gratitude for being fortunate enough to live in the midst of so much beauty. When I first moved here, I was told a persnickety bylaw prohibited using clotheslines

to hang laundry. Like so many other erroneous notions about Oak Bay, that was anurban myth. Outsiders referred to Oak Bay as more “British than England” and dubbedit as being “behind the Tweed Curtain.” I’ve never had the sense either sobriquet wasaccurate. In the past few decades, Oak Bay’s image has been transformed as the ages andinterests of its population changed. Ethnic restaurants and specialty foods shops, aucourant clothing and décor stores, children’s clothing and toy stores, and six excellentgalleries cater to the changing demographic. Residents might still sip tea, but it is morelikely to be matcha green tea, not PG Tips.

Naturally ScenicIf you love to run, walk, hike, bike, sail, canoe or kayak in spectacular surroundings,

Oak Bay offers the opportunity to do it all. Like to get high? Head up to Anderson Hill(a.k.a. Blueberry Hill), climb the steep stairs to Walbran Park and Trafalgar Park, or walkup King George Terrace to the lookout for a panoramic view. Walk down to Harling Point

to the Chinese Cemetery, a National Historic Site in a unique setting. Put your kayak inthe water at Willows Beach, with its gorgeous view of snow-capped Mount Baker, orenjoy the intricate structures locals build out of driftwood on the sand. Explore CattlePoint’s tidal pools in daylight and, on a clear night, gaze at comets and stars fromCattle Point’s Dark Sky Urban Star Park. (See cattlepointstarpark.org). Wild forwilderness? Uplands Park has seventy-six acres of woodland trails and Garry Oakmeadows and plenty of wildlife.

Food Lover’s TourPick up a picnic of Mediterranean goodies in Oak Bay Village and head to your

favourite park or beach. Restaurant options include Turkish, Japanese, West Coast fusion,charcuterie, Italian, and Persian food. For great home-cooked meals, it’s a short walkfrom the butcher shop that sells locally sourced products, to shops with organic andlocal veggies and specialty food products. From June to September, on the second Wednesday of each month, head to the

Village for the Oak Bay Night Market, held from 4 pm to 8 pm. This street market offersmusic, local produce, baked goods, and foods to munch on while strolling past artisans’booths. Stores stay open late, and offer tastings and special events.The streets of Oak Bay are lush with blooming vegetation. A mixture of architectural

eras and house sizes can be seen on every street, from large turn of the century homes,handsome Arts and Crafts houses, small 1930s, pre-war and 1950s bungalows, to sleekmodern designs. With its calming, cooling ocean breezes, beaches, parks, and the flower gardens

lovingly tended by its residents, Oak Bay is a naturally beautiful destination.—By Sylvia Weinstock

Welcome to the New Oak BayMeet the new Oak Bay where spectacular surroundings and a re-invigorated food & drink scene

join to create an idyllic city destination.

Ehren Salazar



Before Jack Todd built his farmstead in Oak Bay in the 1850s, the area was a Garry oakmeadow and home to some of the most extensive camas growth on the Island. It was anatural and replenishing source of camas, seafood, and other staples for First Nations

people. The European settlers who moved into the area gradually appropriated the land,transforming it to suit their own agricultural model. The grasslands were ideal for flock animals,and there would have been a time in the late nineteenth century when thousands of sheepcould be seen grazing on the meadows.Where once the area was home to deer, elk, cougars, and wolves, settlers drove in cattle and

built an abattoir where the yacht club now stands. The cattle, too, are now gone, though we stillhave the deer. As local historian Ben Clinton-Baker puts it, “the history of Oak Bay is one of along struggle between native species and invasive ones. Indigenous plants parry in the dirtagainst transplanted ones, and people of older generations push back against newcomers withnew ideas and ways of being”. It is an apt metaphor for the way that change comes to Oak Bay.I sat down for a coffee with Ben to hear the story of Oak Bay. He spoke about how Oak Bay

was nearly self-sufficient until the Second World War, growing much of its own food on smallallotments. After this, and continuing to today, urbanization rolled pavement over theexceptional soil. There is a pushback now, and local groups are trying to bring back camas andother local species and to preserve what stretches of Garry oak meadows are left. In a time whenpopulation density and the demand for space are on the rise, though, such initiatives are notsimple.Later that week, I went to the Oak Bay Historical Archives and spoke with Alan McKinlay and

Bronwyn Taylor, long-time residents of Oak Bay and keepers of its history. Much of what wediscuss is change. There were once grand hotels here, where the British of the Empire came tospend cooler summers. Those hotels have gone, replaced by new hotels. The streetcars thatconnected Oak Bay to Victoria have gone, as well. Oak Bay was once a place where peoplecooked at home, and there were few places to dine out. Now, though, gourmet establishmentsline the main drag. The difference is in the economics. They tell me that in the old days,people couldn’t afford to eat out, but now there is plenty of money in Oak Bay, and peoplewant restaurants that reflect their bettered realities. Oak Bay has its own eccentricities. Alan tells me that when the Penny Farthing was set to

open, locals were worried about drunks in the streets at 3:00pm when children were getting outof school, and squealing tires at 2:00am. Histrionics abounded. “Now,” he says, “the pub is aninstitution. People would protest if it got shut down.” Oak Bay is funny like that.

—By Adam Cantor

125 words + Image

From The Dining Room, showcasing a refined and approachable menu

featuring the season’s best locally sourced ingredients and hospitality to

match… to the iconic Snug pub (est. 1954), Victoria’s first neighbourhood

pub and the perfect place to enjoy good spirits amongst friends… to delectable

goodies enjoyed at Kate’s Café along with your favourite glass of wine or

perfectly prepared latte… the options are plentiful and offer a range of fresh,

house-made fare with a local flavour.

And if that’s not enough, there is always healthy fare and a favourite drink to

be enjoyed poolside plus one-of-a-kind weekly Tuesday Movie Night experiences

and seasonal Dinner Shows.Truly memorable dining experiences are created when extraordinary food is

shared with those closest to you, in an atmosphere unlike any other. Join us soon!

1175 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC

(250) 598.4556

www.oakbaybeachhotel.com

OAK BAY BEACH HOTEL

XXXXXXX

A Short History of Oak Bay

Family Tea at the Oak Bay Camp, held annually each summer atRattenbury's Beach, Oak Bay. (1905) Oak Bay Archives

125 words + Image

The Whole Beast is proud to produce handmade, traditional, artisan cured

meats without unnecessary additives, preservatives or fillers, while utilizing

ethically raised, hormone and antibiotic free meats from the island and

the Fraser valley. The team is constantly experimenting with new flavors and

techniques resulting in an ever changing lineup of ready to eat, unique products

featuring old world techniques combined with new world flavors. Our aim is to

increase awareness and appreciation for the lesser known parts of “the beast” by

treating them with the same passion and respect shown to the rest of the animal.

From bacon to blood sausage, the tradition of meat curing has inspired us to

create over 50 products all made in house. Starting this summer The Whole Beast

will be offering a wide selection of pickles, chutneys, crackers and condiments to

accompany our charcuterie for a one stop picnic shop.

2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, BC, (250) 590.7675, www.thewholebeast.ca

THE WHOLE BEAST

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There’s something about a good restaurant in thelull before lunch, a sense of anticipation, crispwhite tablecloths, sparkling glass and tableware.

Add a sun-drenched view across the Marina, and it’s theideal place to talk to Jeff Keenliside, Corporate Chef forthe Oak Bay Marine Group and the Marina Restaurant,about what the Restaurant stands for. He talks with quietpassion about his philosophy: “This company was builton fishing and the ocean, it’s our heritage and I wantedto reflect that. When I initially came on board manyyears ago the first goal was to go Ocean Wise, theprogram that promotes seafood sustainability, andcorrect harvesting practices. We don’t serve farmedsalmon, we don’t bring fish up from the Tropics, and I’mproud that our sushi bar is the only 100% Ocean Wisesushi bar in Victoria, as are all of our restaurants.”

“You don’t need to bring things from hundreds ofmiles away, we have wonderful produce right here. Andin fact, the whole emphasis in our menu is on fresh, localand seasonal. For example, we have two superb localsuppliers, Saanich Organics, who provide us with salad

greens, berries, tomatoes, squash, green brassica and herbs, and Sun Leighton Farm in Metchosin who produce sunartichokes, some of the best green beans you’ll ever taste, as well as quinces and apples – lovely people, who are aspassionate about quality as we are. We believe in letting these wonderful tastes from all our producers shine through.They put a lot of effort into their product and we make sure that it makes it onto the plate.”

Looking down the menu, you can see how this philosophy informs everything from the Salt Spring Island Mussels,Grilled Wild Salmon and, the test of every good restaurant, Roast Chicken (their version with rosemary and lemon).An example of how the Restaurant sets the standard is its Grand Marnier award winning pastry department that makesthe finest sourdough bread, exquisite tarts and pastries, and provides all the desserts for the Restaurant, includingtheir famous Sunday Brunch.

The whole intent at the Marina Restaurant is of giving diners a classic white tablecloth experience of the finestrestaurants anywhere, but without being stuffy, and as Jeff Keenliside says; “keeping it fresh and giving our customersthe best seafood in Victoria”.

The Marina Restaurant is at Oak Bay Marina, 1372 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC(250) 598.8555 www.marinarestaurant.com

THE MARINA RESTAURANTAward winning cuisine. Unforgettable views.

Painting Oak BayAs part of our look at Oak Bay EAT askedBarbara Weaver-Bosson to reminisce onher experience painting Oak Bay.

“As a visual artist, Oak Bay is special to me for anumber of reasons. Over the years, I discoveredseveral favourite view points for my painting

research for my Neighbourhoods Series. One of themost perfect locations for my 1998 painting of "BeachDrive" was in Walbran Park where viewpoints werehigh above the roadways and neighbourhoods. Looking east, I could easily observe the eclectic

seaside homes along the scenic Beach Drive. I love theway the roadway happily curves and winds its wayalong the shoreline. Always wishing I could get out to golf more, I

longingly fantasized about a round of golf as I noticedfrom that great distance, the Victoria Golf Club andsome of the fairways were actually visible.

About 14 years ago, I was sketching from AndersonHill park and there below I watched as one of the oldercharacter houses on King George Terrace was beingsurgically removed from its plot of land and movedonto a barge that waited patiently in the bay. TheTudor style home sat tall as it was soon towed away oncalm waters. To commemorate that lovely old dear, Imade sure to include it in my neighbourhood painting"View from Anderson Hill"Of all things the experiences I have had painting Oak

Bay, I must say ‘happiness is a clear day and we can allenjoy the majesty of Mount Baker’. It is easy to fall inlove with Oak Bay.”

CRUMSBY’S CUPCAKE CAFE

Real Food isn’t a trend. Wholesome ingredients, made by hand.Ethically raised, hormone- and antibiotic-free meats. Small-batchbaking, from scratch, every day. Organic, direct-trade coffee, made

with care. (Victoria’s best chai latte, made with fresh-ground cardamom.)Treenut- and peanut-free kitchen. No-gluten options. Relaxing,

welcoming atmosphere for all ages. In Estevan Village near Willows Beach,the summer’s Heart of Oak Bay.

Share our passion. Get some Handmade Happiness™ of your own atCrumsby’s Café.

2509 Estevan Avenue, Victoria, BC(250) 595.2221www.crumsbys.com

Pictured above: Beach Drive by Barbara Weaver-Bosson

View From Anderson Hill by Barbara Weaver-Bosson



Top Foodie Picks

EAT’s Dream Picnic Basket

The adventure of impromptu picnics is what summer is all about, and knowing where to go to get your favourite foods

with minimal fuss can make all the difference. EAT has been dreaming about the ultimate picnic and our appetites lead

us to the vicinity of Oak Bay, where all your dining needs can be met. Oak Bay features some of the city’s top shops and

restaurants with locally sourced, handmade and gourmet produced goods.

We were inspired by a wide selection of items that invoked visions of picnicking by the sea in Tuscany. Of course, we’re not

in Italy but we found the ingredients for a perfect Tuscan feast and we’ve got miles of beaches to picnic at.

At its simplest, an Italian themed picnic requires nothing more than a fresh baguette, some artisan cheese, cured meats like

prosciutto or spiced salami, a few olives and a nice bottle of wine. Of course, you’ll need the essentials: corkscrew, glasses, plates,

cutlery and a blanket to relax on. Here is what our picnic basket contains:

—By Holly Brooke

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House-made Mixed Olives Sun dried black, nicoise, picholine and cocktail olives marinated in olive oil, orange,rosemary, garlic and chili. These olives are delicious nibbled on their own and work wellwith some bread, cheese and a bite of salami.The Village Butcher (villagebutcher.ca), 2032 Oak Bay Avenue, 250-598-1115

Dried Black Mission Figs Sweet, jammy and dense with a pleasant crunch from the seeds (excellent paired withprosciutto)Ottavio - Italian Bakery & Delicatessen (www.ottaviovictoria.com), 2272 Oak Bay AvePhone:(250) 592-4080

AntipastoLemon and Fennel Salami Pork from Stillmeadow Farms this popular salami is made with cracked fennel seed.Bright and floral, a perfect pairing for our creamy mixed olives.The Whole Beast (www.thewholebeast.ca), 2032 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7675

ProsciuttoAll natural dry-cured and thinly sliced from grain fed, hormone-free Vancouver raisedpigs. Wrap a slice of proscuitto around a sweet, juicy fig for the perfect flavourcombination.Slaters Meats (slatersmeats.com), 2577 Cadboro Bay Road, (250) 592-0823

Rustic Pork TerrineBacon wrapped terrine with violet mustard, chutney and toasted brioche. Simple,straightforward and easy to pack for a picnic (works well as an accompaniment to avariety of pickles and preserves). Vis-à-Vis Wine Bar (visavisoakbay.com), 2232 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7424

Chicken on BaguetteWhat would a picnic be without a chicken sandwich? Vancouver Island chicken breast,brie cheese, arugula and apricot chutney, this is classic picnic fare at its best – from theKate’s Café.Oak Bay Beach Hotel (oakbaybeachhotel.com), 1175 Beach Drive, (250) 598-4556

Salad/ContornoChickpea SaladRoasted vegetables and bocconcini, dressed with pesto, red wine vinegar and a housemade lemon vinaigrette; fresh, light and cool, an excellent contrast to our heavier meatsand cheeses.The Marina Dockside Eatery (below the Marina Restaurant)1327 Beach Drive,(250) 598-3890

Grilled Tuscan Vegetables with Balsamic SplashA mix of Mediterranean vegetables roasted to perfection and glazed with balsamicvinegar. Enjoy this salad as is, on the plate, or make a sandwich by layering some of theveggies with a bit of proscuitto, provolone on focaccia bread.Cheryl’s Gourmet Pantry (cherylsgourmetpantry.com), 2009 Cadboro Bay Road,(250) 595-3212

Bread and CheeseFresh Baked Cherry Tomato Foccacia BreadRosemary, fleur de sel, and either flecked with ripe tomatoes, olives or plain. There isnothing like freshly baked bread. Tuck one of these loaves into your picnic basket andbe on your way! Ottavio, 2272 Oak Bay Ave Cont’d on the next page

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THE VILLAGE BUTCHER

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Ottavio’s heritage is based on a

continual family history from

1921 in Northern Italy of

producing fine foods and baking. This

was the natural foundation for an Italian

Delicatessen in Victoria, and Oak Bay

had an empty, dated hair salon with the

light fixtures literally hair-sprayed to the

walls. We started with 8 kinds of cheese,

four stools and a single espresso

machine.

We listened to our customers, found

the products that they were asking for

and introduced them to our favourites.

Eighteen years later, we’re a shop of

20 friendly, funny and knowledgeable

staff, 200 cheeses, dozens of cured

meats, shelves bursting with Italian,

French and Spanish groceries, in-house

baked breads, pastries, a full service

Italian café and our own gelato.

Buon Appetito!

OTTAVIOItalian Bakery & Delicatessen

We are really into meat. For us, that beautiful dinner starts longs beforeit hits the plate. We want to know everything we can about theanimals we work with. Were they raised naturally with no hormones

or antibiotics, what was their diet, how they were slaughtered. At the shop, we take care to butcher them in a way that maximizes their

yield and we make use of every part of the animal. From harvesting unusualcuts, to making sausage, rendering many cooking fats and simmering rich stocks.

All of us here are passionate about what we do every day and feel lucky to havean amazing network of farmers to work with.

We also couldn’t do this without people who care where their meat comes fromand appreciate how good it tastes! Our customers make our lives interesting,keep us on our toes and we like getting to know everyone we’re feeding.

2032 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, BC, (250) 598.1115, www.villagebutcher.ca

2272 Oak Bay Ave, Victoria, BC

(250) 592.4080

www.ottaviovictoria.com

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With a "face-to-face" mentality,Vis a Vis is a personalizedand engaging experience.

With front row seats, you are able tointeract with our Bartender &Charcutier while sipping on a glass ofwine, locally crafted beer or a signaturecocktail. Located in the heart of OakBay, the newly relaunched Vis-à-VisBouchon and Bar offers a uniqueexperience, showcasing an amazing newlunch and dinner menu, an excellentselection of wines and a beautifullycrafted cocktail list. With a greatselection of charcuterie and French

inspired appetizers and entrées Oak Bay is the new destination for a perfectmeal, to enjoy either inside or on the best patio in Oak Bay.

2232 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, BC(250) 590.7424www.visavisoakbay.com


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VIS-A-VISBouchon ~ Bar

Pecorino PepatoPecorino Pepato is an aged, salty sheep's milk cheese, with a rustic bite typical of anItalian table cheese. and a must have for a picnic. Its chief virtue is sharpness, whichcan be enjoyed, fresh with bread and charcuterie, or for cooking and melting(pasteurized). Ottavio (ottaviovictoria.com), 2272 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 592-4080

Seafood/SecondoMarina Seafood TastingMolasses cured wild salmon, lemon puree, fennel and radish salad, grilled albacoretuna, lemon cilantro hummus, black olive relish, potted baby shrimp salad, Mary Rosesauce, fresh dill. The perfect dish for a picnic by the sea; enjoy with a crisp glass ofRiesling for a perfectly balanced bite.The Marina Restaurant (marinarestaurant.com), 1327 Beach Drive, (250) 598-8555

VinoRiesling: Synchromesh 2014 Okanagan Valley VQA, BCA nose of clementine orange zest mixed with pie apple, apricot, white peach and a kissof tropical dried mango. Off-dry.Vis-à-Vis Wine Bar (visavisoakbay.com), 2232 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7424

CaffeCold Brew CoffeeCoarse ground, cold-steeped coffee. This cute, bottled coffee is pure, refreshing andgreat sipped as is; no milk or sugar required.Discovery Coffee (discoverycoffee.com/cafes), 1964 Oak Bay Avenue, (250) 590-7717

DolceMixed Mini CupcakesIn our basket we packed a mix of Tiramisu, salted caramel and lemon chiffon cupcakeswith fluffy butter cream frosting - delicate and decadent and dangerous; one bite isnever enough.Crumsby's Cupcake Café (crumsbys.com), 2509 Estevan Avenue, (250) 595-2221

Shortcrust TartlettesChocolate Ganache – rich dark chocolate ganache in a chocolate crust with caramelsauce– sweet tart complimented by a buttery-rich crust. Wash these down with a sipof cold brew coffee and you will be in a picnicker’s heaven.Pure Vanilla (facebook.com/PureVanillaBakery), 2590 Cadboro Bay Rd, (250) 592-2896

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For the last 27 years Cheryl has been creating an internationally inspired menu

using the local ingredients that make Victoria truly the best place on earth. Our

unique picnic baskets invite you to explore the scenic views of Oak Bay, while

sampling a selection of our gourmet cuisine. The quaint summer days of seaside

picnics are still alive and well here.

Cheryl also offers her services for your next cocktail or dinner party. Our

professional and friendly staff are delighted to make each event a memorable

occasion. An evening of good friends, good food, and good wine brings everyone

together. From start to finish, it is truly a labour of love.

Come by our storefront and say hello! We can’t wait to meet you.

2009 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, BC, (250) 595.3212,

www.cherylsgourmetpantry.com

CHERYL’S GOURMETPANTRY

Oak Bay is home to one of the largest collections of Art & Crafts galleries onVancouver Island.

The Mount Baker Hotel, built in Oak Bay in 1893, was Victoria's finest hotel.

The rule of the road changed in 1921 requiring motorists to now drive on theright hand side of the road.

Canada's oldest Chinese cemetery is located at Harling Point, at the end ofCrescent Road. It was designated a National Historic Site in 1995 and adheresto the principles of feng shui.

In 2010, the bodies of water around Oak Bay, including southern VancouverIsland and Washington State were officially renamed the Salish Sea. A large Indian village — Sitchanalth — flourished at the mouth of Bowker Creek2600 years ago.[

Did you know?

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The Marina CoffeeHouse has beenre-launched as the

Marina Dockside Eatery.Partnering up with localroaster Caffè Fantastico,Corporate Chef JeffKeenliside said, “Theycreate a great product andput the same passion intotheir coffee as we do intoour food. We are verysupportive of our localproducers.” He added,“With our new menu, wewanted to elevate and expand our offerings.”

The Marina Dockside Eatery now offers a roasted vegetable frittata withgoat cheese and free run eggs, pulled pork sandwiches, charcuterie platter,the Marina Restaurant’s signature smoked fish platter and more. The sharedplate concept illustrates two other local partnerships: The Whole BeastArtisan Salumeria and Little Qualicum Cheeseworks.

1327 Beach Drive, Victoria, BC (250) 598.3890

MARINA DOCKSIDEEATERY

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The best little from-scratchbakery and cafe in Oak Bay. Agreat selection of award-

winning muffins and and scones arebaked fresh every morning and goperfectly with our Caffe Umbriacoffee. We have a cookie case to testthe strongest of wills, bars and squaresthat sell themselves, and the mostbeautiful pies and cakes to add thefinishing touch to your specialoccasions. We serve light breakfastand lunch, have a nice menu ofsalads, grilled sandwiches, soups and other deliciousness. if you can't decidedon't worry its all great. Lots of take away options too in our grab n' go fridge,and a freezer full of house-made ice cream! Squeeze a little bit more out ofsummer and enjoy our fantastic sunny patio out back, the perfect spot toenjoy coffee or lunch with your friends. Good things come in little pink boxes!

2590 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, BC (250) 592.2896

PURE VANILLA Bakery & Cafe125 words + Image

At Slaters Meats our goal is to

provide our patrons with top

quality locally raised free-range

products and first class service. We make

a wide range of sausages; from Turkey

Italian to Bison Raspberry & Chipotle,

each batch is low-fat/low-sodium and

made without preservatives. Also, we

source a complete deli section with

salamis and hams produced without

hormones, antibiotics or preservatives.

If you're bored of the same meals

every week or too tired to cook we offer

marinated items, pre-made meals, and a

bunch of award winning rubs and sauces.

Whether you need steaks for a back-

yard BBQ, cheese and balsamics for a

wine night, or an organic turkey for the

holidays the boys of Slaters are here

7 days a week to serve you with a smile.

2577 Cadboro Bay Rd, Victoria, BC

(250) 592.0823

SLATER’SFirst Class Meats

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Discovery Coffee started on a love of coffee and has turned into apassion to make it the best. Hand selecting green beans fromfarmers all of over the world and roasting them in house, our journey

for the perfect cup is never ending. By roasting in small batches and pairingbeans to specific brew methods, we are able to introduce different coffeesand brew styles to our customers on a regular basis. This helps us tocontinually push the boundaries on what good coffee can be. Frequentlyeducating our staff and, in turn, our customers, we hope to be a part ofgrowing an already flourishing coffee scene in Victoria, B.C. Look for ourcurrent coffee selection and paired brew methods at all four DiscoveryCoffee locations along with our house made specialty baked goods fromYonni’s Doughnuts.

1964 Oak Bay Avenue, Victoria, BC, (250) 590.7717www.discoverycoffee.com

DISCOVERY COFFEE

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What the Pros Know For this issue, we asked local butchers and seafoodpurveyors to tell us what they personally like to barbecueat home for friends and family.

TALK By Rebecca Baugniet

Jason Pleym, Two Rivers Specialty Meats, (tworiversmeats.com)When I’m hosting friends and family for a BBQ I always like to do a bit of a mixed grill,but at the center of the show is the Tomahawk Rib Steak! 2.5 lbs. of perfectly aged andbutchered natural beef from our own ranch in Cache Creek. I’m a big fan of subtlefennel notes and Two Rivers blends it just right with Himalayan Pink Salt – justsprinkle and rub. Get your sizzle on until deep grill marks happen and the meatreleases from the grill with ease. Finish by closing the lid and roasting with indirectheat until rare or as you desire. Allow for rest time.

Paul Chaddock, VP / CFO / Partner, Finest At Sea Ocean Products Ltd,(finestatsea.com) My current West Coast treat has been to marinate some of our beautiful BC sablefishfillets for a few hours in my own, slightly tweaked rendition of a miso marinadeadapted from Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Sablefish is at home on a high-temp BBQ and itsdelicious, big buttery flakes open up to let you know when done. This dish will meltin your mouth and have your guests begging for more.

Logan Smith, Owner / Ravenstone Farm Artisan Meats,(ravenstonefarm.com) I go for a nicely marbled, grass-fed rib eye steak. I grew up working in a steakhouse andfor me, enjoying a perfectly grilled rib eye with friends was the reward for a job welldone. Baste the steak with a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt and pepper.Get your grill as hot as you can so when the beef hits, it will quickly sear the outsidelocking in all the flavor. I like cooking my rib eye to medium, giving all of themarbling time to dissolve into the meat.

Lloyd McLennan (aka MEATDOGG), McLennan’s Island Meat andSeafood, (mclennansislandmeatandseafood.com) When cooking for friends and family there is one steak that is a cut above the rest: thelegendary Tomahawk steak. These huge steaks are approximately 18 inches long and2 inches thick, cut from the finest local grass finished beef to ensure both andnutritional and ethical integrity as well as phenomenal taste.

Peter Gregg, The Fish Store at Fisherman’s Wharf,(floatingfishstore.com)My hands-down favorite is brined and then hot smoked sockeye. My daughterdoesn’t say a word when I serve this, she just eats! The salmon sits in a homemadebrine (brown sugar, sea salt, water and maple syrup) for 6 hours before hitting theBBQ. I use hickory wood chips and when the smoke is really going I put the salmonon the grill, skin side down. Depending on the size and thickness of the fish this onlytakes between 5 and 10 minutes, so after 5 minutes start checking it every minute orso - you don’t want to overcook it. Melt in your mouth delicious.

Geoff Martin, Part owner, Slaters Meats, (slatersmeats.com)My favorite cut for the BBQ is a good, thick well-marbled rib eye steak. I always let thesteak come to room temperature; this allows the steak to cook more evenly. I useBarberian’s steak rub as my personal favorite. I like to crank the BBQ up high and putthe steak on one side and turn that burner down regulating the temperature with theother burner. 6 minutes on each side, then take the steak off let it rest for 5 minutes,then dig in!

Bal Fisher, Glenwood Meats, (glenwoodmeats.ca)I personally like to barbecue a bone-in rib eye at home for my family and friends.I rub a little minced garlic and Worcestershire sauce on my steak, my husband justlikes it as is because it has a lot of flavour. We barbecue it about six minutes each sidefor a perfect medium rare. The rib eye can have a fair bit of marbling but don't beafraid because that's where the flavour is! Bon appétit!


THE APPLE BOXFrozen Meals with a Local Emphasis - The Apple Box'Seasonal Menu or Food Box consists of Frozen Dinners,Appetizers & Desserts made with Local hormone freepasture raised meats, local produce & organicingredients. Available In Store 1725 Cook St, Victoria, BCwww.theapplebox.ca250-590-6257

FIG DELICATESSENPart kitchen, part market, Fig serves everything fromshawarma to roast lamb. Cooking at home? Ourextensive grocery selection will provide you with all theingredients for your own recipes.1551 Cedar Hill Road (south side between Cedar HillCrossroad and Shelbourne), Victoria, [email protected]


Vegetarian & Gluten Wise Options

THE LOCAL LISTEAT’s where to find it guide

EAT Magazine is available thanks to the support of our advertisers. Please support them whenever you can

HUDSON’S ON FIRST Award winning dining in a beautifully restored heritagehome. Local ingredients, classic techniques and madefrom scratch cooking are a just few reasons to visit us inDuncan more often.Celebrate Bubbles & Brunch, Lunch and Dinner.163 First St. Duncan, BC250-597-0066www.hudsonsonfirst.ca

THE COMMUNITY FARM STOREThe Community Farm Store, organic health and wholefood market in Duncan. Open 7 days per week. 10,0000square feet of planet friendly market style shopping …with heart. No GMO’s! Good for you, good for the planet.

5380 Trans Canada Hwy, Duncan, BC250-748-6227www.communityfarmstore.ca

DUNCAN GARAGE CAFE & BAKERYA community favourite! The best food, coffee, smoothiesand baking in town. Buzzing with interesting people,vibrant staff and a funky vibe. Always healthy, fresh,creative and home-made.Great food using great ingredients!!330 Duncan Street, Duncan, BC250.748.6223

SPECIALTY SHOPS

MEALS TO GODUNCAN


RAVENSTONE FARM ARTISAN MEATSWe produce a wide variety of hand crafted meatproducts made in small batches from locally sourcedingredients. Stop in at our Victoria Public Market shopto browse our selection of fresh sausages, pasture raisedmeats and smoked deli cuts or enjoy one of ourdelicious deli sandwiches. 1701 Douglas Street. (The Victoria Public Market)(778) 432 2899Open 7 days a week

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET The Market highlights local Artisans and foodproducers at every level; it’s the freshest, tastiest placeon Vancouver Island!Enjoy our Day Vendors and Entertainment every Wedand Sat 11am–3pmOpen 7 days a week1701 Douglas Street, Downtown Victoria

WHISKSummer in Victoria is warm temperatures, BBQ, visitorsand weddings! Come to Whisk for the perfect, uniquewedding gift, discover fun and useful gadgets like theveg spiralizer, BBQ tools and aprons and of course,Fiestaware. At the Vic Public Market. 778 433 9184. On the web, whiskvictoria.ca Facebook and Instagram. Open 7 days a week

THE ROOST FARM BAKERY& WINERY BISTROThe Roost passionately grows its own food and wine on10 acres for a true Saanich Peninsula farm to tableexperience. A food destination like no other. 9100 East Saanich Road, North Saanich, BC 250.655.0075 www.RoostFarmCentre.com

FERNWOOD ROAD CAFEA funky little cafe with an incredible view, great coffeeand lots of home baking – for breakfast, lunch anddessert. Come and enjoy the water view. Starting in Maywe’re open Friday nights from 6-8pm for tunes andtreats.325 Fernwood Road (just across from the Fernwood dock, north end)Salt Spring Island, BC, V8K 1C3250-931-2233, www.fernwoodcafe.com

HASTINGS HOUSE Dining RoomVoted the World’s Best Romantic Hotel in 2014,"Hastings House offers both Fine and Casual dining ineither the main dining room or in our newly designedBistro. Both menus are inspired by award winning chefMarcel Kauer using the freshest of local ingredients"www.hastingshouse.com1-800-661-9255160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island

ADRIENNE’S RESTAURANT & TEA GARDENCome and visit us for a wonderful experience with our"Daily Special Menu" in our Restaurant.We offer greatpairing options with organic teas, fine Riesling wines,local beers and cider to compliment any meal.We are open daily for Breakfast, Lunch and Afternoon HighTea. 5325 Cordova Bay Road, Victoria, BC, 250-658-1535


SALT SPRING ISLAND

MATTICK’S FARM

FARM & DINE

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET


HONEYEDWeingut Bründlmayer 2009Kamptaler Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Kamptal, Austria *$22.62 +141358This shows Brundlmayer’s strength inconsistently crafting complex andmineral-driven grüner veltliner, built toage. Honey, dried pear and whiffs ofpetrol on the nose. The fuller palatecarries stony weight along with bakedpear and apple, white blossoms, pinenuts, wild honey, herbal grasses, lemon,white grapefruit and white pepper,finishing with warming alpine herbs.91 points.

STONYStift Goettweig 2013 Gruner VeltlinerTrocken MessweinKremstal, Austria *$20 + 442939 White flowers, lemon blossom, meadowgrasses and dried herbs open this stony,oily and medium-bodied white. A juicypalate brightens the oily heft, and drawspear skin, lemon, white grapefruit, driedthyme, greengage, minerals and lemon-grass through the lengthy finish. Fine,potent white pepper throughout.90 points.

SPICYCulmina Family Estate 2014 UnicusOliver, Okanagan Valley, BC*$25 + 611699You'll be forgiven for thinking you'renosing a sauvignon blanc, with heaps ofcut grass, bright lychee, exotic goose-berry, white peach and bright lemonpeel on this shining grüner veltliner.Ripe, spicy pear, persimmon, pineapplerind, peach, grapefruit, bitter lemonpith, green apple and Asian pear on thesuper spicy, bracing palate, with the oily

palate generously carrying white grape-fruit through the lengthy, white pepperfinish. 88 points.

JUICYCount Karolyi 2013 Gruner VeltlinerHungary$7.50 +156463If you're looking to explore grüner with-out breaking the bank, this well pricedHungarian bottle serves as a terrificgateway to the grape. Zippy lemon pith,white peach and crisp green apples ripacross a juicy, stony palate, comple-mented with green grass, Asian pear andfinishing with white peppery spice andsubtle meadow herbs. 88 points.

SLENDERDe Vine Vineyards 2014 Grü-V GrünerVeltliner Estate, Saanich Peninsula,Vancouver Island, BC*19.91 This GV shows the citrusy herbs, limepith, wildflowers, savoury stone andgreen apple that I've come to recognizefrom this Saanich Peninsula site. Aslender 11 percent alcohol, finishingwith shining lemon peel and delicatewhite pepper spice. More a whisperthan a shout. 88 points.

HERBALLaurenz V. 2013 Und Sophie SingingGrüner VeltlinerNiederösterreich, Austria$20 + 458034Spring meadow, gooseberry, green fig,white pepper and green apple open thisstony, herb brushed grüner. The dry,oily, citrus slicked and medium bodiedpalate carries dried and fresh herbs,chamomile, fine meadow flowers, tan-gerine, white grapefruit, stony spice andgreen fig to a zesty, pithy finish. 89 points.


g VINCABULARY By Treve Ring

Though the grooviness of Austria’s star white grape is appreciated and adored by wineprofessionals the world over, GrüVe’s charm is generally lost on the public. Is it theumlaut that trips people up? Or the relative scarcity of GV on our shelves? If thebeguiling charm of this crisp, herbal, lemon oil slicked and white pepper scented grapeisn’t alluring enough in youth, wait until a few years’ maturity turns this zestyacidity into honeyed, stony and profound wine, akin to fine chenin blanc, sémillonor chardonnay. High quality grüner can last for a couple of decades or be a refreshingaperitif or partner for your mid-week supper. Amazingly food-friendly, GV shines as apartner for tricky foods like artichokes, asparagus and arugula as easily as it pairs upwith Weiner Schnitzel, grilled oily sardines or spicy curries.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

Grüner Veltliner } {Gew-new VEHLT-ly-ner}


INDIA SUMMER ALE Persephone Brewingwith Toast with avocado,cucumber and radish.

INDIA SUMMER ALE Persephone Brewingwith Toast with avocado,cucumber and radish.

THE CONCLUSION:Persephone Brewing’s ISA is light and hoppy enough that it can pair with any non-spicy summer food (ok, maybe not salad). It works perfectly with the rich avocadoand ripe cucumber, but watch out because the radish can sneak in and give a bit of zipto the toast. E


g A BEER AND A BITE By Colin Hynes

Colin Hynes

THE BEER: India Summer Ale - Persephone Brewing(Gibson’s, BC)

Now that it’s hot out, it's time to grab a beerthat can refresh you. The Persephone ISA isjust the ticket. It has a citrusy-mandarinorange flavour to it; as well, they use pilsnermalts to add some character. This beer is lowon the alcohol scale, which makes it perfectfor hanging out at the beach or the parkwith friends. ABV: 5.5% (persephonebrewing.com)

THE BITE:Toast with smashed avocado,cucumber and radish.

When it gets so hot in July and Augustthat you feel you can’t even function,there is nothing as compelling as aneasy-to-make, but great tasting, dinneror lunch. This open-faced toast isincredibly simple: just go get abaguette, drizzle it with olive oil, andfry its face off; then grab some avocadoslices and smash them onto the toast;after that, it is as easy as layering onthe cucumber, radish, salt and pepper.



Southern Rhône Restored

BLESSED WITH A MEDITERRANEAN CLIMATE, the southern Rhône Valley isparadise for grape growing. When the papal court briefly relocated to Avignon in the14th century, the pope’s love for Châteauneuf-du-Pape gave the latter a prestigiousreputation. But there is much more beyond this small and famous appellation. TheRhône Valley is France’s second most productive wine region, and the southern RhoneValley is responsible for 95 percent of the Rhône Valley’s production. Despite its longhistory and tradition, the region is far from being stagnant. During my recent visit inMarch, I was astonished by the area’s incredible dynamism. At the annual press conference last March for Inter Rhône, a professional association

bringing together the valley’s wine growers and wine merchants, the iconic producerMichel Chapoutier spoke about the region’s focus on quality. “[Quality] needs to comefrom the bottom up,” said Chapoutier. “This includes the entry-level wines made inhigh volume.” Research centres have made a lot of progress, says Chapoutier, and aregiving tools to local wineries to make better wines. “Until recently, too many wineswere oxidized and smelled like barnyard [a symptom of brettanomyces, a form of yeast,in the wines].” He is proud that the region has been a leader within France in makingcleaner wines.Organic viticulture is another asset the region is banking on to promote and

position their wines on the local and international market. Over the past couple ofdecades, many producers have adopted sustainable practices, minimizing the use ofman-made chemicals in the vineyards. A dry climate makes it easy to adapt thispractice. The conversion to fully organic vineyards is a natural progression. Today, 40percent of the wines produced in the Rhône Valley are organic. However, as MichelChapoutier warns us, while organic viticulture is the way of the future, clean wine-making is still key. “In the old times, the butter was organic and rancid. Today, ourknowledge allows us to make organic butter that is not rancid. It is the same thing withwine. One must not forget how to make wine. Organic viticulture alone is not enoughto make good wine,” says Chapoutier.The wines of the Southern Rhône have everything to attract wine consumers. Amid

the diversity, they all share their friendly, voluptuous fruit. Rich and unctuous, theyeasily win the hearts of New World wine drinkers while still charming wine lovers inthe old world. Southern Rhône wines are made from a blend of grape varieties thathave made a happy home in this Mediterranean climate.Most people associate the region with red wines. And yet while trying hundreds of

wines a day at the biannual wine fair Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône, what surprisedme most were the whites. Full of character, with fragrant, exotic and citrus aromas,they combine richness and freshness. Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc,Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier are the main players. The production of thesegems, which currently represents only about six percent of the Rhone Valley’s totaloutput is predicted to increase in the coming years. Meaty, colourful rosés offer a great option when you want something richer than a

white but lighter than a red. Grenache Noir and Cinsault tend to dominate, but asplash of Syrah and Mourvèdre among other grapes keeps diversity going strong. The reds represent 95 percent of production in the Southern Rhône. At home in

these arid conditions where drought is often a problem, Grenache is the most regularlyplanted grape. It is responsible for giving those heady wines irresistibly lush flavoursof raspberry and wild strawberry. The generous fruit is well complemented by dry herbnotes, thanks to the garrigues bushes that surround the vineyards. Grenache is oftenblended with Mourvèdre, which gives the latter colour, structure and ageability. Foundin the Southern Rhône only in the past 45 years, Syrah is also often used in blends,though it frequently suffers in this hot climate, growing only in the cooler sites. Othersuspects you might encounter are Carignan, Counoise and Cinsault.Châteauneuf-du-Pape is still a go-to for wine collectors and wine aficionados, but

g TERROIR By Michelle Bouffard

The wines coming out of this sun-drenched valleyin the south of France have never been better.


beyond that, the Southern Rhône Valley offers a plethora of well-priced wines fromlesser-known appellations.Nestled in the hills of the famous Dentelles de Montmirail, Gigondas is often

referred to as the poor man’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is, however, a fantastic regionthat has come into its own. Thanks to the complex geology and the Dentelles, whichlimit morning sunlight, Gigondas produces complex reds that are fresh and capableof aging. Look in particular for those from Montfaucon and Santa-Duc. At the foot of Montmirail, Rasteau’s amphitheatre-shaped vineyards create a unique

microclimate. The top reds offer an unparallelled combination of power, spice andelegant freshness. Le Domaine Montirius is a long-time favourite. White and rosé arefound in small amount.My coup de coeur goes to the wines from the small Lirac appellation. The white, red

and rosé are all equally seductive. Terraces of vineyards planted between garriguesbushes are found on three distinct types of soil. It is the combination of power, fresh-ness and minerality that makes these wines so appealing. Domaine de la Mordorée isthe place to go here.There is no region that says value like Costières de Nîme, Ventoux and Luberon.

Making every hue of wine, these lesser-known appellations benefit from a markedday-to-night temperature difference, which gives freshness to the wines. Luberon’swhites are particularly intriguing with their dash of Vermentino.One cannot talk about the Southern Rhône without mentioning Côtes-du-Rhône

and Côtes-du-Rhône Villages. Incredible value can be found in both. The latter hassuperior terroir giving more concentrated wines. Especially look for Côtes-du-RhôneVillages Cairanne. Blessed with old vines and clay-based soil, it produces dense winethat can age well. It is expected to become a single appellation (Cairanne AOC) thisyear.The range of flavours allows for endless food and wine pairing. Chapoutier

emphasizes that this is another area the region needs to exploit and market.“Culinary habits are changing. The world of spice is fascinating, and great pairingswith Asian and Southeast Asian food can be made” says Chapoutier. I could not agreemore. One of the most recent stunning matches I experienced was a Magret de Canardmarinated in Moroccan spice and served with a Vacqueyras. My mouth is stillwatering.The quality of the wines from the Southern Rhône has never been better. Those who

have been faithful to the region will continue to be. Wine drinkers who prefer fruit-driven New World wine will no doubt be tempted. You could not find an easier bridgeto cross over. Santé!


E

Whites2013 Domaine de la Bastide, Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc AOC, *$18-22Thanks to Viognier, which dominates the blend (70 percent), this wine explodes with the tropicalaromas of guava and pineapple. A great match with Asian cuisine featuring ginger.

2013 Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc AOC, *$23-27Intriguing exotic nose with notes of apple skin, orange blossom and marzipan. Rich texture withpleasant bitter notes. Crab it is!

Reds2011 Château de Montfaucon, Côtes-du-Rhone AOC, *$22-25A long-time favourite that once again delivers. Pure juicy raspberries, strawberries and mineral notes.Elegant and great value.

2012 Domaine Beau Mistral, ‘Sélection Vieilles Vignes’ Rasteau AOC, $29-33 (SKU# 577908)Characterful with wild bramble, black licorice and seductive violet notes on the palate. Full-bodied.Canard, s’il vous plait!2013 M. Chapoutier, ‘Belleruche’ Côtes-du-Rhône AOC, $17-20 (SKU#476846)Friendly with aromas of plum, licorice and grilled herbs. Slightly rustic but charming and easy to like.Camping wine?2011 Domaine les Pallières, ‘Les Racines’ Gigondas AOC, *$43-47Made from grapes grown on 60-year-old vines, this Gigondas is dense, rich and voluptuous. Deliciouslycharming, it asks to be served with red meat, preferably wild game.2013 Famille Perrin, Tavel Rosé AOC, $22.50-25 (SKU# 241224)Can’t decide if you want white or red? This rosé from the premium region of Tavel is a goodcompromise. Meaty with rhubarb and orange peel notes, this full-bodied rosé needs food. Bouillabaisseor paella?*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

OLD ISLAND VINESNEW CLASSIC WINES

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g WHAT TO DRINK WITH THAT

BW. I would be inclined to start with a bright, crisp Cava with the smoked salmon -it would be a good foil to the smoke.For the cold salads and the crispy fried buttermilk chicken, a nice Tavel rosé from the

south of France would not go astray, or perhaps a nice fresh gamay, chilled. Dolcettomight work as well, again chilled (don’t be afraid to chill light red wines). I choosethese because they are a bit more robust with fruit and some light tannins, but quench-ing and refreshing as well and would stand up to menu items.With the peach and raspberry pies, a thermos of cold espresso and a bit of grappa as

a digestif (there are some excellent local examples) then find a nice shady tree andpicture yourself in a boat on a river with tangerine trees and marmalade skies...

JJ. Start with a Languedoc rosé with lively and pretty floral aromatics and juicy orangefruit. The sharpness of caper and onion will be quelled by bright acidity. The green bean and tomato salad will suit cool climate Australian dry riesling; crisp

and fresh notes complement the food while effusive tarragon is supported by herb andvegetable traits within the riesling’s bright lemon character. The potato salad canhandle Tavel rosé’s robust flavours and charming red fruit aroma, supported bybackbone and substance. The glorious fat and salt of fried chicken skin call for Mosel spätlese riesling. The

dish will be by natural sweetness and tropical fruit flavours, supported by a rich weightthat stands up buttery meat and with acidity to clean the palate between bites.For the pies, go with a new world aromatic sparking sweet wine (I recommend one

from the Okanagan Valley). Its golden sweet stone fruits and light effervescencecreates a soft sensation that enhances the fresh impressions of summer orchard fruits.

T H I S M O N T H ’ S E X P E R T SBailey Williamson (BW)Blue Grouse Estate Winery Burnaby-raised Bailey Williamson wrote a food column for the school newspaper suggesting simplerecipes for broke college students, and afterward, spent a good chunk of his life pursuing work in theculinary arts. In 1993 he relocated to Victoria and became involved in the blooming “farm to table”movement. He has worked his way up from the bottom at several wineries, including five years asAssistant Winemaker at Road 13 Vineyards before accepting the call of the Grouse to serve asWinemaker and Vineyard Manager for Duncan’s Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Vineyard.

Jay Jones (JJ)Canucks Sports & EntertainmentJay Jones is the Director of Wine & Beverage for Canucks Sports & Entertainment. With nearly twodecades in BC’s hospitality industry, Jones brings game and concertgoers at Rogers Arena a premiumquality, beverage experience. Prior to joining the Canucks, Jones held the positions of Bar Managerand Wine Director at several award-winning Vancouver restaurants, including West and Market byJean-Georges, as well as Araxi in Whistler. In 2014, he was named Bartender of the Year at the 25thAnnual Vancouver Restaurant Awards. He has been previously honoured as the first Bartender everinducted to the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame and named Canadian Bartender of the Year by Air CanadaEnRoute.

—By Treve RingPairing suggestions from the pros.

In these pairing columns we don’t use specific recipes. Similar recipes to these can be found on the web.

A Summer Picnic MenuSmoked Salmon & Cream Cheese with Capers & Red Onion

~Green Bean-and-Tomato Salad with Tarragon Dressing

~Potato Salad with Bacon, Celery & Scallions

~Crispy Buttermilk Fried Chicken

~Raspberry-Peach Hand Pies

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E

SPARKLING:Sartori Di Verona Prosecco Brut NV Italy $16.90-19.90 + taxYou don’t need to spend a lot of money to drink well. This elegant little sparkler fromthe vine-covered foothills north of Venice is a fine example. It is light and dry with alovely mousse and subtle fruit flavours. It is the perfect way to start an evening.

WHITE WINES:See Ya Later Ranch Chardonnay 2014 Okanagan Valley $15.00-$18.00 plus taxI have fond memories of this property in a previous incarnation. The view from thevineyard is stunning but the pet cemetery and a close encounter with a rattlesnake hadus all rattled. Full-bodied with lush tropical fruit, spice and toasty oak flavours, a richcreamy texture and a finish that just keeps going.

Louis Moreau Petit Chablis 2013 France $24.60-27.00 + taxWhen it comes to Chablis, Petit Chablis is the lowest of the low. It is entry-level wine,sourced from grapes grown on the outskirts of Chablis, but who cares when it tastesthis good. It is crisp and lively, its fruitiness enhanced by that stony minerality uniqueto Chablis.

Dom de la Vieille Cure Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2013 France $16.00-18.00 + taxIf you have heard of Muscadet but never tasted it, look no further, this is a classicMuscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie as it should be. Located 12 km southeast of Nantesin the Loire Valley, the 21-hectare vineyard is planted on the slopes of Saint Fiacre onthe river Maine, the very epicenter of Muscadet country. The vineyard is farmedorganically but is not certified as such but no herbicides or pesticides are used. Crispand dry with great minerality and citrus notes. Very clean, very direct, very fresh.

Douglas Green Chardonnay 2014 South Africa $11.00-13.00 + taxRich and creamy but not over the top. This value-price Chardonnay is easy to likewith ripe pineapple and melon flavours laced with a hint of vanilla and toasty oak. Notoverly complex but delicious.

Vignerons de Buxy Buissonnier Montagny 2011 France $22.50-25.50 + taxLocated a few kilometres south of Beaune, Montagny lies in the Cote Chalonnaise,between the Cote d’Or to the north and the Maconnais to the south. One hundredpercent Chardonnay, this very refined Montagny is firm yet fruity with peach, pearand floral aromas, good weight with a slightly creamy texture, crisp acidity and lovelyfruit, spice and mineral flavours

Lorenzon Borgo dei Vassalli Friulano 2013 Italy $15.00-17.00 + taxThe Vassalli vineyard is located deep in the heart of the Isonso DOC in southeasternFriuli. Fruity and floral with subtle herbal notes that defy description. Fresh and vibranton the palate with ripe fruit flavours and soft acidity! Superb!

Alderlea Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Cowichan Valley $17.00-19.00 + taxSuper fresh with grapefruit, citrus, and peach flavours, light and subtle with a soft,refreshing finish. Sauvignon Blanc, pure and simple, island grown. Go figure.

RED WINES:Tinhorn Creek Okanagan Valley Cabernet Franc 2012 BC $21.70-24.00 + taxRedolent with scents of raspberries, violets, black currants and herbs; the aromas justkeep coming at you! Medium-bodied with a dark red fruit core, brisk acidity, a firmtannic grip and a long finish. Best served slightly cool.

Delas Saint-Esprit Cotes du Rhone 2013 France $17.25-19.50 + taxThis robust red is nicely balanced with sweet raspberry, vanilla and earth flavours,supple and nicely balanced with a long soft finish. Delicious.

Terre Valpolicella 2013 Italy $14.00-16.00 + taxBone dry, with red cherry, strawberry and dusty earth aromas, medium bodied withsoft acidity, fresh berry flavours and a patina of dusty tannins. A solid everyday red forpizza or tomato based sauces.

Averill Creek Pinot Noir Reserve 2009 Vancouver Island $58.75-63.00 + taxWow! The wine is as breathtaking as the price. Nicely balanced, with beautiful forwardfruit on the nose leading into heady layers of black cherry, earth and spice flavours.Absolutely delicious to drink now but this beauty has what it takes to continue toimprove with time. Some pretty solid pinots coming out of the Cowichan Valley thelast few years. Super. E

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VICTORIA: Don’t you like it when you stumble onto a happy surprise? Something completely unex-pected that makes your world a little bit better? This happened to me a few weeks ago when I ran to myneighbourhood corner store to grab a missing ingredient for dinner. To the side of the entrance was abeautiful big new sign that said ‘The Market Garden’. My heart skipped a beat – was someone sellinglocal produce at the Oceanic Market? (I’ve long been harbouring a fantasy that someone mighttransform the closest mini-mart to my house into a local grocery mecca in the style of the NiagaraGrocery) Once inside, I scanned the store in search of some change that would explain the new sign out-side, but everything looked the same. So I asked the owner, who was behind the till, what the sign wasabout. “A guy is renting my backyard,” he explained. “He’s got some plants back there – you shouldcheck it out. Down the lane.” Down the lane (Bella St) I went, where I discovered that “he’s got some plantsback there” was something of an understatement. Lush lettuce plants, artichoke, tomato, pepper, rhubarbstarts (and more) were on display at the edge of a robust, versatile vegetable garden. Ryan TimothyTownsend has transformed the Oceanic’s backyard into an incredible oasis for urban farmers. He’s builta greenhouse on the side of the building and another hut where he keeps his organic seeds – some 213varieties, including many stunning heirloom selections. You have to see it for yourselves – he’s out back at810 Catherine Street. Or at the very least, check out his gorgeous seed catalog at themarketgarden.ca. And that isn’t the only exciting food news on the other side of the harbour! Late May saw the launch of

the new Esquimalt Farmer’s Market, held every Thursday from 4.30-8.30 in the Esquimalt Town Square.The new market has an impressive list of recurring vendors, including Makaria Farms, Green Fire Farms,Red Damsel Farms, Warmland Organics and more. Food trucks in regular attendance include the TacoRevolution truck, Happy Rooster, Juma – Victoria’s first farm-to-fork food truck, featuring lamb, pork andchicken from the owner’s family farm in Saanich (you can also find them at Moss St Market on Saturdaysand Oaklands Sunset Market on Wednesdays). Find out more at esquimaltmarket.com. Open for the summer season, the Point Ellice House Restaurant has expanded operations. Now called

O’Reilly’s, they are serving breakfast and lunch in addition to their Victorian-style Afternoon Tea. O’Reilly’sis open Thursday through Monday 9am-4pm, with indoor and garden seating options. Reservations arerecommended. (pointellicehouse.ca) Nourish Kitchen and Café, the delightful food operation that has been charming visitors at the

Horticulture Centre of the Pacific for several years, has found a home for their second location in the InnerHarbour. Nourish in the Harbour has taken over the heritage house (that was previously home toChongo’s) and is offering full service dining from 11am-3pm on weekdays, and 9am-3pm on weekends,in addition to a self-service café and bar from 8am -5pm. From their website: “Our heritage home locationwill come to life with rooms to mingle and rooms to gather.” (nourishkitchen.ca) In other news, a new ramen restaurant in Saanich featuring a third generation noodle maker, no MSG

or preservatives, and a stubborn chef who cooks with love, Stubborn Chef, is getting quite a bit of buzz.(facebook.com/stubbornchef.noodle) Finally, if you are in town over the weekend of July 16-19, you don’t

want to miss Taste – Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine. Organizer Kathy McAree does animpeccable job with every event on the calendar, but perennial favourites are the Swine and the Vine,celebrating the “wonders of everything Pig”, and The Big Catch – a West Coast seafood boil featuring freshseafood from Finest at Sea and select local winemakers. (victoriataste.com) This just in: The new opened Farmers City Market is a collectively owned & operated market shop in

Artisan Courtyard off Fan Tan Alley. Expect basic, local-only groceries and food. The collective of producerschanges monthly (thefarmerscitymarket.com). —REBECCA BAUGNIET

COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: On a spectacular warm May day I headed up Island forBlue Grouse Winery's Grand Opening, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to take in the DuncanSaturday market along the way. While the farms, bakeries and wineries I've mentioned might not be newto everyone, they're all outstanding and worth tracking down beyond the market. First, stop by Henry & Jones (henryandjonesgrassfedbeef.com) for some born here, raised here, finished

here, grass-fed dry aged beef. This stellar beef is full of vitamins and minerals not found in grocery storemeat, and is lower in saturated fat as well as super tasty. Find your perfect accompaniment at 8 1/2Acres Farmstand, Lockwood Farms, and KilRenny Farm

(kilrennyfarm.com) from a choice selection of local vegetables grown organically and lovingly for yourplate. In case you want to add authentic Mexican flavours, Ixim (facebook.com/iximcanada) will takeyou there with her handmade, pure corn tortillas and taco spice. (Incidentally, you can also get Iximtortillas at the Sidney and Cedar markets as well as their Taco Revolution Truck at the James Bay Mkt.) For those of you who love a good loaf of bread with your feast, be sure to stop at Well Bred

(facebook.com/wellbred) for a handcrafted artisan loaf - get there early or your butter will be lonely!Newcomer Emandare Vineyard (emandarevineyard.com) has recently released their adventures of 2014;in a bottle of Siegerrebe Gewürztraminer or Sauvignon Blanc made from the oldest Sav vines on theisland. Finish up with a decadent gluten free delight from Bake My Day (bakemyday.ca) - you won't missthe gluten in these treats. Some of you may be familiar with chef Bradford Boisvert's wonderful new project; Cure Meat and

Cheese (curemeatandcheese.com). Now as an added bonus, a new brick oven pizza shop - TortalunaPizzaria (facebook.com/tortaluna) - has just opened upstairs and they are incorporating charcuterie fromthe Cure. Also, new - and upon this writing, yet to be openned - is Red Arrow Brewing(redarrowbeer.ca)company located in a beautiful brick building in the heart of Duncan. Depending onyour desire they will soon offer a hefeweizen, umber ale, kolsch, and an IPA - if they are as tasty as theysound it will be a great summer for sipping. Moving over to Salt Spring Island and the first ever Garlic Festival taking place August 8-9th at

Paradise Farm on the south end of the Island. Salt Spring Seeds, among others will show off over adozen varieties of locally produced garlic in cooking demos and various tastings. Visitsaltspringgarlicfestival.com for ticket info and full description. Finally, in the Comox Valley, a trio of new craft breweries; popular Cumberland Brewery

(cumberlandbrewing.com), Gladstone Brewery (gladstonebrewing.ca) - on tap at The White WhalePublic House, Atlas Cafe, The Waverly Hotel, and Gladstone Lounge - as well as the soon to beopened Forbidden Brewery (forbidden brewing.com). Spirit producer Wayward Distillation House


The Buzz



(waywarddistillationhouse.com) is also new, crafting a unique duo; Unruly Gin & Unruly Vodka. Whatmakes all of their products unlike anything else is their process of making mead with all naturalunpasteurized honey, heating it once it's matured and collecting the alcohol vapours in a custom designedstill developed specifically to handle delicate honey. Dry and smooth with just a suggestion of sweet,these spirits are a wonderful addition to our growing Island collection. If you are more in favour of the 'black brew' there's a new coffee truck called The Red Wagon

located on Ryan Road beside Airport Service and Mini Storage. The now closed Becky's CountryBakery lives on in the truck with the next generation; Becky's daughter Dallas and her new family. Signup for their newsletter so you don't miss any of the many community minded events they have planned([email protected]). In case you're wondering, I did find my way to the spectacular venue and award winning wines of

Blue Grouse Winery - despite the distractions - making it a memorable day full of tasty discoveries I'mhappy to be able to pass along to you. (bluegrouse.ca) —KIRSTEN TYLER

The TOFINO Buzz will return in September

The Buzz

2577 Cadboro Bay Road, VICTORIA

592-0823

Quality meats,

Poultry, Cheeses,

Specialty Products

& Condiments

Featuring local, all natural, free-range Deli meats and salamis

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

With a spoonful of Churn’s Sage & Shallot butter melting in my mouth, Ibeam, recalling my first rendezvous with homemade butter more than30 years ago. Churn’s is smooth and rich. Sweet organic cream fuses with

rice-vinegar-poached shallots and fresh sage for a balanced and delicious butter.Later I enjoy it on steak and it is amazing. I don’t usually go for tampering withsomething perfect like butter. I am not one for a lavender shortbread or a cardamombrûlée. However, Churn is the exception. Bonnie Todd, also of Off the Eaten Track culinary walking tours, hand-churns her

gourmet butters at one of The CommissaryConnect kitchens in Vancouver, anetwork of shared commercial kitchens for small businesses. Using Avalon’s 36percent whipping cream (the highest percentage of milk fat locally available), shecreates both savoury and sweet butters. Todd, originally from Comox, experiencedher own housemade butter epiphany as a server at La Pentola in Yaletown’s OpusHotel in 2013. She started making her own butter for herself and appreciative friendsand family, then bought Churn from Carol Viau in 2014.I tried three butters from a current assortment of six: three savoury and three

sweet. The Peppercorn Brandy was gently spiced, melding the heat and spike of thepepper with the warmth of the brandy. The wonderful flavour hits me first, butwhat also strikes me is how the ingredients come together seamlessly. I sautéedmushrooms with it and this was beautiful hot, and also cold the next day. The Baconand Parmesan butter I enjoyed on its own because, really, what more do you need?It was salty, sweet, creamy and splendid. I’ll add bread or roasted Brussels sproutsnext time. Maybe.The sweet butters, such as Tart Cherry and Sherry (for duck and pork tenderloin)

and the Roasted Almond and Date (for bagels or a charcuterie platter), I have yet tosample. The Grocer at the Hudson has been holding tastings in tandem with theFrench Oven Bakery. A perfect gift for a friend, family, housewarming or for your-self. In Victoria, Churn is available at The Grocer in the Hudson, AubergineSpecialty Foods and The Little Cheese Shop. Also available in Vancouver stores andmarkets. (thelocalchurn.ca).

Butter Up By Gillie EasdonIs it possible to improve on something as perfect as butter? Churn’s handcrafted creations say “yes.”


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eat magazine july | august 2015

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