eat magazine sept | oct 2009

L o c a l | S u s t a i n a b l e | F r e s h | S e a s o n a l

Celebrating Food & Drinkin Victoria and on Vancouver Island

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CommunityVictoria: KaTofino | Ucl

ContributoGillie EasdonCeara LornieGenevieveTepedelen,MPublisher PAdvertisingLorraine Br(Tofino), Ga250.384.90All departmBox 5225, Vwww.eatmaSince 1998 |reproduced witPacific Island Gopinions expreIsland Gourmet

ConciergeEAT@ . .Epicure atIn the ‘HoGood for YLocal HerGet AwayFood MattVictoria RLocal KitcWhat’s inNathan’sThe BC FoLiquid AssIslandWiWine & TeChefs Talk

3www.eatmagazine.ca SEPT | OCTOBER 2009

Fresh and local pub fare, regional wines & craft beers from Phillips Brewing. Take in Victoria’s most spectacular sunsets

on the heated oceanfront patios. See you on the bay!

We’re not a million miles away…it just feels like it!

Reservations 250-544-2079849 Verdier Ave, Brentwood Bay brentwoodbaylodge.com

Open daily for lunch & dinnerfrom 11:30am to midnight.

Seaside, Sunshine & Sunsets

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eatmagazine Sept | October 2009

Cover recipe pg.25Photo by Michael Tourigny

Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

Editorial Assistant/web editor Katie ZdybelCommunity ReportersVictoria: Katie Zdybel, Nanaimo: Su Grimmer, Comox Valley: Hans Peter MeyerTofino | Uclulet: Kira Rogers, Vancouver: Julie Pegg, Okanagan: Jennifer Schell

Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin,Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Laurie Guy, Mara Jernigan, Tracey Kusiewicz,Ceara Lornie, Sherri Martin, Kathryn McAree, Michaela Morris, Colin Newell, Julie Pegg,Genevieve Laplante, Karen Platt, Treve Ring, Kira Rogers, Elizabeth Smyth, AdemTepedelen,Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Katie ZdybelPublisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.Advertising:Lorraine Browne (Vancouver Island), Paul Kamon (Vancouver), Kira Rogers(Tofino), Gary Hynes (agencies, regional and national).250.384.9042, [email protected] departmentsBox 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, tel. 250-384-9042, fax. 250-384-6915www.eatmagazine.ca eatjobs.ca epicureandtravel.comSince 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may bereproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy,Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. Allopinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. PacificIsland Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

Concierge Desk . . . . . . 4EAT@ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Epicure at Large . . . . . . 9In the ‘Hood . . . . . . . . .10Good for You . . . . . . . . 12Local Hero . . . . . . . . . . 13Get Away . . . . . . . . . . . 14Food Matters . . . . . . . 15Victoria Reporter . . . . 16Local Kitchen . . . . . . . 26What’s in Season? . . . 29Nathan’s Recipes . . . .30The BC Food Scene . . 32Liquid Assets . . . . . . . 41IslandWine . . . . . . . . .42Wine & Terroir . . . . . . .44Chefs Talk . . . . . . . . . .46

will also be mtasting by BCWhomemade SGerman Boyscious and funfront of Ottavi

BURGUNDY WThe Victoria2009/2010September 28lected assortmthe world. Theheld in a boarbrosia Event Cbe led by a paspecifically focause availabpurchased inbers; $50 for nberships ($25available at BRoad, 250-59Liquor Store (2665).

OctoberEATMYWORDOn October 3tion of culinaCulinary Alliagroup of esteeand chefs foluncheon, EatThat’s Goodshowcase talefiction and foocie's Restauwww.pdxca.o

AUTUMN BOU

4 EATMAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2009

Eat responsibly.Always serve dessert.

Treat yourself at feysandhobbs.com

Sumptuous, good old-fashioned cooking for special moments and every day. www.feysandhobbs.com 250 . 380 . 0390dnasyef.www

good old-fashion,Sumptuous0930.083.052moc.sbbohd

ned cooking for special moments a .and every day

SeptemberHOW TO TASTEWINE LIKE a PROExamine the “see, smell, and sip” componentsin accessing the quality of wine. September3rd at the Dunbar Centre from 7 to 9pm. $45fee includes acid and tannin samples, a winearoma sensory kits, and four wine samples.Register online at www.dunbarcentre.ca

WINESTOCK MUSIC FESTIVAL at MORNINGBAYWINERYA day of great music and wine at one of BC’sprettiest vineyards. September 5thmarks theWinestock Music Festival’s fourth year atMorning Bay Vineyard on Pender Island. Thisyear’s acts include The Odds, The Furies, CocoLove Alcorn, and many more. For the full line-up visitwww.morningbay.ca. Tickets availableonline.

HEALTHY MEALS from the GARDENTerralicious cooking and gardening school willbe holding a series of classes to teach you howto prepare healthy, beautiful, and simplemeals from the garden. Each class works fromthe garden to the table, ending in deliciousmeal prepared by an organic food chef in theircozy demonstrations kitchen. Classes are heldMonday, Wednesday, and Friday of each weekbeginning September 7th.Visit www.terralicious.ca for the full calendar.

OKANAGANWINE BUS TOURThe BC Wine Appreciation Society is filling upthe bus for its fourth annual bus tour of theSouth Okanagan. Stops at great restaurantssuch as Nk’Mip Winery, lunch at BurrowingOwl Winery, and many more tasting opportu-nities in the Oliver/Osoyoos round out a fan-tastic trip. Call 250.498.2225 to make yourreservations. Trip scheduled for September12th and 13th. Only 24 seats available.

WILLOW CENTRE GRAND OPENINGEat burgers for a cause! BCWineguys, Slater’s,and Bistro 28 are holding a fundraising barbe-cue atWillows Centre on September 24th, 4 to9 PM. Proceeds go toWillow’s School Heritage

Fund. Call 250.592.8466 for more information(time and date details will be confirmed closerto the date).

FEAST of FIELDSAn all-encompassing celebration of ourprovince’s bounty, Feast of Fields is a Farm-Folk/CityFolk fundraiser that honours somanyof BC’s vintners, chefs, brewers, farmers, andfood artisans that it’s held in three differentplaces on three different dates. The Okana-gan’s celebration just passed in August, whilethe Vancouver festivities will be heldSeptember 13th at the UBC Farm andVancouver Island will host their feast atProvidence Farm in Duncan on September20th. Tickets are available at a online atwww.ffcfprojects.ca and they go fast, so don’twait. Also visit this site for a list of locationsthat sell tickets.

WINE FUNDAMENTALS COURSEHeld in Parksville for the first time. Starts onSeptember 14th and will run for eight weeksat Tigh-na-mara Resort from 3:00-6:00pm onMondays. The cost is $600 inclusive and reg-istration is on-line at www.internationalsom-melier.com

BACK TO SCHOOL NUTRITIONWant to get your kids out of the sugar rut andfeed them foods that stimulate cognitive func-tion and are a breeze to pack in the lunchbox?On September 16th, nutrition educator andauthor, Karla Heintz, will be speaking at theMunch Family Restaurant in North Vancouveron back to school nutrition. For more informa-tion visit www.karlaheintz.com

SLOW FOOD CHEESE 2009The biennial event Cheese – Milk in All itsShapes and Forms, organized by Slow Foodand the City of Bra, is back for its seventh edi-tion, to be held September 18th to 21st, in Bra,Italy. The festival has become an internationalreference point for dairy artisans and cheeseenthusiasts from around the world, with its ex-ploration of the thousand aspects of cheese,from dairy animals to the finished product.Every cheese has a long story behind it, itsown identity and specific nature. By tellingthese stories, Cheese keeps these traditionsalive. Visit cheese.slowfood.it for details.

MADRONA FARM FUNDRAISERRistorante La Piola will be holding a silent artauction September 25th to the 29th featuringArtist Erica Messing and her acrylic works oncanvas. Auction proceeds will be donated toMadrona Farm. A reception will be held Sep-tember 29th to announce successful biddersand will feature appetizers by Chef Cory Pelanprepared with produce from Madrona Farmand a selection of BC wines. Ristorante LaPiola 3189 Quadra St. 388-4517. www.eri-camessing.com www.madronafarm.com

OKTOBERFEST IN OAK BAY VILLAGEOttavio is pulling out the accordion, thesausages, the sauerkraut, and the Schnitzelfor their annual Oktoberfest celebration. There

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

THE CONCIERGE DESK by Katie ZdybelFor more events visit THE BULLETIN BOARD at www.eatmagazine.ca For

didand

ing the harvI want to

article (pg.2Mostly knowrestaurantsHead to thehome this y—Bon app

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will also be mustard tasting, wine and beertasting by BCWineguys, hot Bavarian pretzels,homemade Spatzle, and of course, Ottavio’sGerman Boys and Girls. Don’t miss this deli-cious and fun event. 11 to 3 in the piazza infront of Ottavio’s, September 26th.

BURGUNDY WINE TASTINGThe Victoria Wine Society continues its2009/2010 tasting series on Monday,September 28, at 7:00 pm, with a specially se-lected assortment of Pinot Noirs from aroundthe world. The Pinot Noir-focused event will beheld in a boardroom tasting format at the Am-brosia Event Centre, 638 Fisgard Street. It willbe led by a panel of guest speakers selectedspecifically for their Pinot Noir expertise. Be-cause availability is limited, tickets must bepurchased in advance. Tickets ($40 for mem-bers; $50 for non-members) and annual mem-berships ($25 per person; $35 per couple) areavailable at BC Wineguys (2579 Cadboro BayRoad, 250-592-8466) and Cook St. VillageLiquor Store (109 – 230 Cook Street, 250-995-2665).

OctoberEATMYWORDSOn October 3rd, Portland’s foremost associa-tion of culinary professionals, The PortlandCulinary Alliance (PCA), will bring together agroup of esteemed Pacific Northwest authorsand chefs for the literary symposium andluncheon, Eat MyWords: Literary FoodWritingThat’s Good Enough to Eat. The event willshowcase talented voices in the genres of foodfiction and food memoir at the luxurious Gra-cie's Restaurant at the Hotel deLuxe.www.pdxca.org

AUTUMN BOUNTY at SUN PEAKS RESORT

A showcase of fine food, wine and art, AutumnBounty at Sun Peaks Resort celebrates thebest in the Thompson-Okanagan Valley. Tasteseasonal delicacies at Dominion Creek Ranch,learn the best ways to cook seafood, and sipwine from area vineyards. “It’s really a cele-bration of fare, allowing guests to samplesome incredible cuisine prepared from the fan-tastic product available right here in our re-gion, paired with just released wines,”explains David Tombs, Executive Chef at theDelta Sun Peaks Resort hotel. October 9th to11th.

A TASTE OF SPAINA Taste of Spain, Flamenco "Feria" evening iscoming to Victoria's Marriott Inner HarbourHotel on Saturday October 17. This popularfundraiser is highlighted by a dazzling fla-menco show with Alma de Espana, silent auc-tion, prize for best gypsy costume, and a tasty"Tapas" reception. Tickets $50, $45 for mem-bers. At Munro's, Ivy's, Chronicles of Crime,Larsen Music. For info call 250 384 8832www.almadeespana.com

CULINARY TOURS IN ITALY with MARAJERNIGANMara Jernigan, celebrated BC chef and gradu-ate of Slow Food’s Master of Italian CookingPrograms, leads this off-the-beaten-track culi-nary tour of Northern Italy through Piedmont,Emilia Romagna, the Marche and Florence.Pack your bags in preparation for excellenteating from rustic tables to 3 star Michelinstops with your superb guide.October 24th to30th. For a sample itinerary, visitwww.fairburnfarm.bc.ca

NovemberART OF THE COCKTAILA two day celebration of the art, craft and tra-dition of the cocktail is coming to Victoria,November 7 & 8. Cocktail lovers and mixolo-gists can wander the Tasting Room samplingthe cocktails that appeal while catching tipsfrom guest mixologists, authors and reps inongoing demonstrations on the side stage thatinclude a competition for the Best Mixologistin the Pacific Northwest.September 1 tickets available online or at 1215Blanshard St. (Film Festival office). Tickets are$35 and only available in advance. Tokens forsamples are $1 and are only available at theevent which is being held at Victoria Arts Con-nection 2750 Quadra St.www.artofthecocktail.catwitter.com/artofcocktail


Ready to learn to

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re informationnfirmed closer

tion of ourds is a Farm-nours somanyfarmers, andhree differents. The Okana-August, whilewill be heldC Farm andheir feast atn Septembert a online atfast, so don’tt of locations

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Milk in All itsby Slow Foods seventh edi-to 21st, in Bra,internationals and cheeseld, with its ex-cts of cheese,hed product.behind it, itsre. By tellingese traditionsor details.

ng a silent art29th featuringrylic works onbe donated tobe held Sep-essful biddershef Cory PelanMadrona FarmRistorante La517. www.eri-arm.com

LAGEccordion, thethe Schnitzelbration. There

ths ahead

zine.ca For me, fall has always been a time of renewal. Connecting with friends Ididn’t see over the summer, attending wonderful festivals, visiting farmsand wineries or simply eating well—at home or in a restaurant and enjoy-

ing the harvest. We’re a lucky lot here on the coast.I want to bring your attention to Jennifer Schell-Pigott’s Lunch in the Vineyard

article (pg.20). Her story is about the emerging food scene in the Okanagan Valley.Mostly known for great wine, the Valley is coming of culinary age, not only for goodrestaurants but great food products, farms, bakeries and other specialty food stores.Head to the valley this autumn if you can and spend a few vacation dollars nearhome this year. Think of it as a stimulus package for your palate.—Bon appétit, Gary Hynes, Editor

Editor’s Note:


1753 Shawnigan Mill Bay Rd250.743.3667amusebistro.com

2nd Place - Best of Vancouver Island, 20th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards

Only 35 minutes from downtown Victoria

EAT@ — by Katie Zdybel

TALKINGFOODCULTUREwithAUTHORMICHAELPOLLAN

While touring to promote his latest book,In Defense of Food, writer Michael Pollanstopped in Vancouver for an interviewwith EAT. Though on a tight schedule fullof speaking events and television appear-ances, Pollan was articulate, thoughtful,and enthusiastic to muse on his visionsfor creating a new food culture, and thebest way to reconnect people to theirfood.First, Pollan dug into the issues: In De-

fense of Food deals largely with the un-healthy style of eating in North Americaand how it has led to ecological disasterand an unhealthy population. “We don’thave a national food culture that can with-stand the onslaught of food marketingand scientific advice,” Pollan explained.“That’s part of our problem.” We talkedabout how Canada and the U.S. are simi-lar in geographical size and in their cul-tural make-up—both are young countriessettled by immigrants from a spectrum ofcountries that bring their own traditionsaround food. Often these traditions arelost or become watered down when re-moved from their home country. “If you don’t have one strong food culture that everybodysubscribes to, you’re muchmore vulnerable when someone comes along and tells you howto eat. It’s very hard to resist that. We’re not steadied by some set of organized rules. Italso means that whoever screams the loudest has the most influence and that tends to bethe food industry because they’ve got tremendous amounts of marketing money behindthem.”In Canada, the pitfalls of having our food culture largely influenced by food companies

with the biggest budget are evident in the proliferation of McDonalds, Tim Hortons, andDairy Queens that now speckle our landscape. As well, the increase of obesity and over-weight conditions of Canadians is a direct link to the common diet of fast or industrial food.A World Health Organization study in 2008 shows 61.1% of Canadians are overweight orobese, ranking us 35th in the world for most obese population.Pollan, ever the optimist, was quick to point out the silver lining for countries who lack

a clear food culture to steer its population into better eating. “In some ways, it’s very lib-erating because it allows us to invent a new cuisine which I think we’re in the process ofdoing.” And how does a country go about consciously creating a healthier, more enrichedculture around food? “There are no fixed, immutable rules; cultures can be creative. Thereis a kind of educational process to it. In England, the food turned around because of MadCow disease. There was a real moment where England was really shocked by what they hadlearned about how their food was being prepared and suddenly there was an interest in ar-tisanal farming and local meat production and the food got a lot better.”England, however, is a relatively small country —how does a country like Canada, with

the Atlantic on one side, the Pacific on the other, vast stretches of prairie in the middle anda crust of snow to the North consolidate its culinary customs into a single culture that uni-formly guides us into healthier eating practices? Is such a thing feasible, or EAT posited, isit possible that a modern food culture in such a landscape is really made up of a patchworkof smaller regional cultures?“That’s a good question because to a certain extent if you’re going to have a food culture

that’s going to have a local component than it’s going to be different in different places. AndI do believe there’s real strength in the local food movement.” After thinking to himself amoment, Pollan conceded, “I don’t have the answer. I don’t know how it’s going to playout. But I don’t think the answer is to go to one single food culture. Rather it might be tohave certain consistent principles throughout. In the sameway, for example, that Julia Childwould teach the French techniques, but then would take those basic principles and apply

Author Michael Pollanspoke with EAT at UBC campus

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them to Chinese or Indian cooking. She believed those principles could be applied in dif-ferent ways. So there might be various principles that would become important in Amer-ica —such as the use of fresh, local ingredients.”In a broad sense, we can look to such ideas for creating a national culture around food,

but what about on the personal level? How does one encourage the people around themto establish their own culture, or relationship, with the food they eat?Pollan is a backyard gardener and has been for years. He’s quick to use analogies from

the garden when he speaks and shows a true zest for puttering in the soil. However, hemakes it clear that he is not a romanticist when it comes to small farming or gardening. “I’mnot saying that everyone needs to garden, but I am saying that it feeds the process of re-connecting with food. I think it’s especially helpful for children [to spend time in the gar-den]. They rediscover that nature feeds us, not industry. And food is very attractive to themin the garden; they’re more adventurous. My son won’t eat salad, but he’ll nibble lettuceand arugula when we’re in the garden.”“I don’t set out to convert anyone,” Pollan continued. “People come around in their own

good time and they get there through different paths. Something important I learned fromAlice Waters is that you lead people with pleasure. The way she changes peoples’ mindsabout food is through cooking for them. I try to do it through story-telling.” This is a ratherhumble way of stating what he does, coming from an author who has won the James BeardAward for best food writing, was a finalist for the National Book Critics Circle Award, andwhose previous work, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, was named one of the ten best books ofthe year by both the New York Times and theWashington Post. This light touch is charac-teristic of Pollan, both in person and in print. Though he writes about serious subject mat-ter, he maintains a sense of humour and has comfortable, easy-going manner.“You know, you can argue ‘til you’re blue in the face,” said Pollan at the end of our in-

terview, “but unless it seems like the more pleasurable route you’re not going to convinceanyone to change the way they eat.” Is he hopeful about the reformation of a North Amer-ican food culture? Pollan responded optimistically: “It’s definitely happening. It helps thatlocal, sustainably grown food tastes better. And it also happens to be the most environ-mentally responsible food. That’s a very lucky thing indeed.”To read the long version of this interview visit www.eatmagazine.ca

Gary, I'm just so happy to know you and to be able to say that I met you in the 80s. Therearen't many who are still kicking like us from that disjointed era of Canadian food. WELL DONE!— Anita Stewart, author, Anita Stewart's CANADA - The Food, The Recipes, The Stories

In Julie Pegg’s article “Summer Fete” she refers to the Victoria Festival of Wine as fizzling out afew years back and that is hardly the case. In its final year, 2007 we drew record crowds of2500+ people over the two days it was held, which perhaps would be better stated as goingout with a bang. After producing the biggest wine event in Victoria for 9 years I simply didn’twant to do it any more, predominately because of the time commitment and financial liability ittook over and above our retail stores plus having a new family. Many have asked “but who isgoing to do the festival” with my stock response being; somebody will, it’s too tempting. I wishKathy all the best but please don’t let your writer discount all the hard work and success we hadfor the sake of promoting a new event that is yet to be executed. We did it right and all thepeople that volunteered or participated over the years deserve that recognition.—Glenn Barlow, President, Cook St Village Liquor & BC Wineguys Cadboro Bay Rd

A note on my recent Dim Sum article. Evening dim sum has been discontinued at Jade Fountain.Now it's served from 11 to 2:30 p.m. only. My apologies. —Jeremy Ferguson

Hello. Love your magazine, however, your last issue has quite the missing words on page 26victoria eat buzz cafe regarding Devour. You are missing the fact that Jena Steward is alsochef/owner along with what seems to be at least one sentence in regards to the blurb aboutDevour. —A patron of Devour.• Our apologies to Jena and Devour for the omission. —editor.

I just wanted to take a minute and thank you so much for your incredible web article. Your kind wordswent along way for all of the Staff and I think they finally get the whole hard work pays off concept.We all truly thank-you for your efforts and we will remember this always. As crazy as it seems weactually had a couple in last night for dinner who had the article sent to them in Ancastor from afriend in Vancouver(small world!). It just happened that they were headed up to a cottage in Point Clarkand had to make a reservation based on your efforts. I'll be sure to watch for all of your articles inEat so keep up the exceptional work. We very much enjoy trying new places and if we are back onthe West coast or heck anywhere really I'll be looking for your advice on where to eat.—Derek Griffiths, Harbour Street Brasserie, Kincardine, Ontario.

letters to the editor


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“I can’t see anything.”“Look! They’re blowing bubbles in this corner.”“Just drag it on the bottom until you feel a

bump and maybe you can snag one.”“I find a gentle bonk on the head is the trick.

They get worked up and start pinching at any-thing that moves.”

This wasmy initiation into the highly skilledfishing game of “Grab the Crab.” Acrossthe Strait of Juan de Fuca, where we Victo-

rians usually see an accumulation of pale greyclouds bunched up against the Olympic Moun-tains, the town of Port Angeles hosts what canonly be described as one heck of a party. Thesnappy Dungeness crab is the guest of honour (ifone considers being eaten an honour).My husband, Tom, and I hitched a ride aboard the Coho Ferry on a dull October long

weekend to take in the sights, scents and flavours of the Eighth Annual Dungeness Craband Seafood Festival. A fabulous culinary event with a focus on local bounty from field andsea—and so close to home. How could a seafood lover like me possibly have missed outfor the previous seven years? Lucky Victorians don’t even need to take a car; the hub of ac-tivity takes place on City Pier, next to the Black Ball ferry terminal.Themammoth 7,000-square-foot white pavilion rising out of the parking lot housing the

majority of food vendors. Mr. Crab might be receiving top billing but oysters, mussels,clams, chowders, wild salmon, organic salads, blackberry pie, sweet corn, wine andmanyother locally produced treats abound.We made our way out of the main tent, past a maze of local artisans and produce ven-

dors, to the far end of the pier to try and snag our lunch. No licence, no equipment and notalent required. A crush of people surrounded huge holding tanks full of crabs. All thecrabs for the event are caught in nearby Dungeness Bay by S’Klallam tribal crabbers.Ooos, aahs and cheers rose from the crowd as unwary crustaceans went for the bait and

were pulled from the tanks. My turn came. It was a tense 10 minutes, but in my allottedtime I was able to convince three crusty fellows to join me for lunch. Several enormouspropane-heated boiling pots were at the ready to cook the catch.“Now what?” I whined longingly as the steamy boiled crabs were presented to me.“Well, let’s eat! There is nothing quite as good as sitting on a pier breaking into a crab

you caught yourself,” enthused Tom as he produced the ideal crab-cracking multi-toolfrom his pocket.With crab juice running down our chins and onto our jeans, we savoured every morsel,

then wandered over to the Chef Demonstration Stage housed in another huge tent.I adore fresh crab cakes! But my mom, being a transplanted prairie girl, always made

them with canned crab. So I asked a stupid question. What was the difference betweenfresh, frozen, canned or . . . imitation crab? Oops! I shouldn’t have mentioned that lastone. Facial expressions alone toldmewhat I already knew. Imitation crab was just that, im-itation, and should not even be considered. If you were hiking in the back country andsimply couldn’t survive without crab cakes, OK, use canned. But as is the case with any cui-sine, local and fresh is best.The Crab and Seafood Festival doesn’t stay within the confines of City Pier. Local pride

and enthusiasm for the dapper Dungeness spill over into the community—more than adozen restaurants offer special festival menus. In fact, dining on the Olympic Peninsula isa treat at any time of year with the evolution of unique Olympic Coast cuisine—amélangeof quality agricultural and seafood products intertwined with international flavours.Waiting for the ferry the following afternoon I noticed several rather portly seagulls chat-

ting it up on the deck. They seemed to have enjoyed the Crab and Seafood Festival asmuch as we had and were telling their friends. I am sure they will return the next year, andso will we.

If you go:Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival,October 10-11, 2009, City Pier, Port Angeleswww.crabfestival.org 360-452-6300

The 8th Annual Dungeness Crab& Seafood Festival in Port Angeles

by Lorraine Forster

Its about to get a whole lot bushier around the cityas men begin to sport brand new mustaches thisNovember to help raise funds for Prostate Can-cer Canada. (www.prostatecancer.ca) . Last year1,200 ‘stash’ growers raised $130,000.Movember (the month formerly known as No-

vember) is a charity event held during Novem-ber each year. At the start of Movember guysregister with a clean shaven face. The Movemberparticipants, known as Mo Bros, have the remain-der of the month to grow and groom their moustache,raising money and awareness along the way.While growinga Mo is left to the guys, Mo Sistas (women that support theirguys or just loveMos!) form an important part of Movember withtheir powerful feminine touch, by recruiting Mo Bros, helping toraise funds and attending the highly anticipated Gala Partés.Movember culminates at the end of the month at the Gala Partés.

For more information visit www.Movember.comRead about the worldwidemovement, register as a particiapnt or make a donation for yourfavourite mo man.

Calendar of Movember EventsRegistration Party: October 8thLaunch Party: October 27th at Heckler’s Bar and GrillGalla Party - Cirque de Mo: Thursday Movember 26th, Element Night Club


Visitors to Port McNeill, waaaay up north on the Island, are surprised to find winningfare in a town of fewer than 3,000. Eschewing the desperation oases of fatigued Greekand 1950s Cantonese, foodies make their way to Northern Lights, affixed to, but inde-pendent of the Haida-Way Motel.Chef Philip Kelly caters to every market, as he must, feeding the barflies next door, turn-

ing out pizzas and hot dogs for the family crowd and juggling take-out and catering, but hestruts his stuff with impeccably fresh fish from the glassy, pristine waters of BlackfishSound.A lunchtime fish-and-chipper special ($9.95) brings two lightly battered pillows of sub-

liminal ling cod, but the accompanying frozen potato “dollars”—loonie-sized fries—aren’tworth a first glance. Seafood plate ($14.95) borders on deep-fried heaven, with the afore-mentioned ling, Fanny Bay oysters in panko and local spot prawns in coconut batter all upto snuff.At dinner, the lights go down, conversation goes up and a less pandering menu hops to

life. Right off the bat, Armenian flatbreads with lemony, garlicky hummus raise hopes.Clam chowder ($5.95), made-from-scratch, arrives rich and creamy and loaded with clams.Penne ($19.95) sauced in smoked salmon cream, comes piled high with halibut, shrimps,mussels, bay scallops, chives and divinely, sea asparagus. Also no slouch is Chinooksalmon ($26.95) a massive, perfectly char-grilled fillet, impossible to finish unless yourname is Arnold or Goliath, and wallowing with spot prawns in garlic and butter. But whoa,somebody in the kitchen hasn’t figured out searingly hot plates annihilate ever-so-delicate fish flesh, leaving the customer to conduct a frantic rescue operation. Chef mayhave to administer a spanking and send sous to bed without dinner.From a small wine list in need of Okanagan chard, pinot gris and pinot blanc, Mission

Hill pinot grigio and Yellowtail chard (each $28) just get by.Northern Lights, 1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill, 250-956-2184, email chef-

[email protected].

EPICURE AT LARGE — by Jeremy Ferguson

NORTHERNLIGHTSOur investigative reporter heads north on a food hunt. Here’s what he uncovered.

Best Australian Producer 2003, 2006 and 2008International Wine and Spirit Competition

www.peterlehmannwines.com martins4443

_EAT

T h e P E O P L E , S T O R I E S & W I N E ST H A T M A K E t h e B A R O S S A F A M O U S

Follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/eatmagazine

Movember

Become a Mo Bro for Charity

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IN THE ‘HOOD — by Treve Ring

EstevanVillage andCadboroBayRoad are family-friendly zones.It takes a child to raise a village, at least it does in these two blocks nestled within OakBay. A few minutes’ walk to elementary schools, playgrounds and beaches, the peacefulcalmness of this upper-middle-class, family-friendly neighbourhood has created pocketareas where strollers and dogs are as common as cars. Local businesses have responded—in spades. Tyke-sized cupcakes and gourmet doggie biscuits are lovingly prepared here.Plus, there’s a green grocer, skilled butcher, artisan breads, all-day breakfasts to feed thegrowing family, a cozy bistro and a wine shop for mom and dad. In short, it’s a picture-per-fect place to read the Sunday paper on a patio, locally roasted coffee and lavender muffinin hand, watching Junior and Fido play on the grass.

Cadboro Bay Road: Culinary Map (2500 block)

Willows Centre is the official name of the teeny strip of shops in the 2500 block of CadboroBay Road, but I’ve never heard anyone refer to it as such. Instead, it’s the place whereSlater’s First Class Meats is. In business since 1983, this is where many chefs (pro andhome versions) source their specialty meats. Custom-cut beef, poultry, lamb and pork, anddon’t forget to order ahead for your Thanksgiving Turducken. 250-592-0823. 2577, CadboroBay Rd.But what wine to serve with your Turducken? Ame DePaoli and her knowledgeable team

at next door’s BCWine Guys will be able to help you out. Older sister store to Cook StreetVillage Liquor, this VQA shop immigrated over from Oak Bay Village last year and stocks awide variety of hard-to-find bottles. Be sure to subscribe to owner and well-known wineconsultant Glenn Barlow’s e-newsletter for all your booze news, and inquire about his Vic-toria Wine Society. 250-592-8466. 2579 Cadboro Bay Rd. (www.bcwineguys.com).Bistro 28 is the new kid on the block; it opened this summer in the oldWren space. Chef

Sam Chalmers, formerly of The Superior, Pescatores and Stage, totally reconfigured thespace, installing a long banquette bar and small patio. Themenu is big on little plates. Popin for dinnerWednesday through Sunday, lunchWednesday through Friday and brunch onSunday. 250-598-2828. 2583 Cadboro Bay Rd., 250-598-2828 (www.bistro28.ca).Next door’s Food Forum carries all your typical groceries and sundries, plus an impres-

sive selection of locally produced goodies. Think Level Ground Coffee, Udder Guy Ice Cream,Meadowvale Farms … They are also a consistent sponsor of local sports teams and com-

munity eventDirectly acr

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Glenn Barlow & Ame DePaoli at BC Wine Guys


Restaurants, cafés, wine shops, cupcakes, butchers & more

For reservations: 250.655.9700 • www.sidneypier.com

Haro’s Afternoon Tea

Take a break and enjoy an old world tradition in a casual seaside setting. The

perfect pot of tea, decadent goodies, and an ocean view to watch the world go

by. What could be better?

Where: Haro's Restaurant + Bar

When: Daily from 2-4pm

Cost: $12.95 per person (not including tax or gratuity)


oBayes.d within Oakthe peacefuleated pocketresponded—epared here.ts to feed thea picture-per-ender muffin

k of Cadboroplace wherehefs (pro andand pork, and577, Cadboro

dgeable teamo Cook Streetand stocks a-known wineabout his Vic-com).n space. Chefonfigured thee plates. Popnd brunch on8.ca).us an impres-uy Ice Cream,ms and com-

munity events—just what every ’hood is in need of. 250-598-2566. 2585 Cadboro Bay Rd.Directly across the street fromWillows Centre is the lynchpin of this area’s revitalization.

Since Pure Vanilla’s opening in December 2002, it has morphed from a tiny one-chef bak-ery to the bustling, trendy, licensed, patioed café it is today. Known for their “baby cakes”—smaller, single-sized (ha!) servings of their popular cakes—they’re also popular for theirbeautiful charlottes, tartes, tortes, wedding cakes, cookies and pies. And don’t arrive toolate for the Good Morning Muffin; the following is fervent. On the savoury side, they alsomake their own naturally leavened artisan breads, quiche, salads, galettes—and more.Their distinctive pink-ribboned box will give you away at any party as a shopper in theknow. 250-592-2896. 2590 Cadboro Bay Rd.

Estevan Village: Culinary Map (2500 block Estevan Avenue)One five-minute stroll east towardsWillow’s Beach lands you in EstevanVillage, a block thathas seen much change over the years. The newest arrival is Crumsby’s Cupcake Café,opened by Maria and Keith Elwood in late spring and an apparent hit with kids of all ages.True to its name, they heavily feature the divine diminutive sweets—theirs are bite-sizedand range from kiddie delight flavours to mocha for moms. They also make delish minimuffins. Don’t miss the lemon-lavender to complement their locally roasted coffee and SilkRoad Teas, plus grilled panini and gelato. The interior is bright, colourful and fun, completewith a children’s play area, and there is a small corner patio. 250-595-2221. 2509 EstevanAve.A few storefronts down on the next corner is the Village’s old faithful. Willows Galley

has anchored this block for years and is home to many people’s favourite fish and chips inVictoria. Thick-cut halibut, wicked tartar sauce and delish homemade fries are paper-cone-ready for you to wander down two blocks to the beach with. Picnic benches are outside ifyou can’t wait that long—and many can’t. Ice cream and milkshakes help fend off sum-mer’s heat. 250-598-2711. 2559 Estevan Ave.Across the street is another eatery that draws foodies in from afar. Though Paprika Bistro

has recently been sold by founders (and current Stage owners) George and Linda Szasz,new owner Geoff Parker is carrying on their well-followed traditions. Only a couple of minormenu changes have occurred to the French- and Italian-inspired menu, and the Bistro’sdedication and commitment to local producers and suppliers hasn’t wavered. A three-course early-seating Tuesday-Saturday dinner is only $26—an amazing value for this levelof food and service. 250-592-7424. 524 Estevan Ave. (www.paprika-bistro.com).While Paprika Bistro is open for dinner only, a few doors up, The Village’s cheery and

friendly staff will happily feed you for breakfast and brunch. The owners are known fortheir all-day breakfasts and traditional Jewish recipes, so you can be assured that theBlades brothers will take good care of you. The challah french toast is a big hit, as are thecrispy golden latkes. Open until 4 p.m. daily. 250-592-8311. 2518 Estevan Ave.And if it’s movie and pizza night—or picnic at the beach day—pop into Pizazz Pizza next

door, open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m.-8 p.m. 250-370-0868. 2510 Estevan Ave.

ys

Geoff Parker in front of his Paprika Bistro

&more


LOCA

B.C.’s homegrown energy bars are among the bestin this popular food group.

Salt Spr

Once the exclusive domain of athletes,energy bars have now become a main-stream food choice. Grandmothers and tod-dlers alike can be seen munching on theportable snacks. And according to Food andConsumer Products of Canada, they arealso the fastest growing product in the foodindustry with an astounding annual growthrate of 81 percent. In plain English, foodbars are big business; sales in Canadaalone are expected to exceed $588 millionby 2011.Not surprisingly, Canada’s most health-

conscious province—British Columbia—isleading the nation in the consumption andproduction of energy bars. With our out-doorsy, active lifestyles, British Columbianswant products that save time, promotehealth and nutrition and taste good. Sev-eral savvy local companies aremeeting thatdemand, producing great-tasting, nutri-tious bars that are winning fans not only inB.C. but around the globe. Here are mypicks for B.C.’s best homegrown energybars.

ELEVATE ME BARS—Produced by PROs-nack Natural Foods Inc., a small family busi-ness based in Vancouver, Elevate Me barsprove that when it comes to food, simpleand unadulterated is best. There is no longlaundry list of ingredients here—the bars,available in seven flavours—are a simpleblend of whey protein isolate, antioxidant-rich dried fruits and nuts. According to com-pany founder Earl Ellingson, the emphasisis on “the quality of the ingredients, not thequantity.” This creed is certainly evident inthe taste of the bars. My personal favouriteis the Blueberry, Cranberry, Goji BerryBoost, but I’m also looking forward to try-ing the company’s newest addition—theChocolate, Acai Berry Brownie Bar. Whosays healthy can’t be decadent?

VEGA VIBRANCE BARS—Formulated byVancouver triathlete Brendan Brazier andproduced by Port Coquitlam-based SequelNaturals, Vibrance Bars contain a uniqueblend of raw, organic, plant-based super-foods one doesn’t usually find in an energybar. For instance, the essential fatty acidcontent of the bars is supplied by an exoticmix of green tea seed oil, pomegranateseed oil and blueberry seed oil. Other in-gredients certain to please health-con-scious foodies include sprouted nuts and

seeds, acai berries and chardonnay grapes.Available in three flavours—ChocolateDecadence, Green Synergy andWholesomeOriginal—the bars don’t have the dry, de-pressing texture associated with somevegan bars. In fact, they’re quite succulentwith the chocolate flavour being the defi-nite standout. Small in size, but mighty innutrition and taste, these bars are perfectfor mornings when dashboard dining is anecessity.

PERFECT 10 BARS—Another made-in-Vancouver bar, Perfect 10’s are concoctedusing a simple, yet remarkably tasty for-mula of three fruits, three nuts and fourseeds. No fillers, preservatives or addedsweeteners are used. And every Perfect 10bar has an impressive 450 mg of heart-healthy omega 3 fatty acids derived fromground flaxseed. Not impressed yet? Con-sider this—NASA chose Perfect 10’s as its“snack of choice” for a recent expedition tothe Andes. There are five main flavours—cranberry, apple, lemon, apricot and cherry.(Cranberry, lemon and apricot are alsoavailable as Perfect Bliss bars, with darkchocolate added to the original recipe.) Themarriage of sweet, plump apricots and darkchocolate in the Apricot Bliss bar certainlygets a perfect 10 from me.

OPTIMUM ENERGY BARS—I’ve placedthese bars from Richmond’s Nature’s PathFoods Inc. last on my list for two reasons.First, I find the name a tadmisleading—en-ergy is derived from food period—no spe-cific brand of food bar is going to provideyou with “optimum” or enhanced energy.Second, these bars have a long, albeit pre-dominantly healthy, list of ingredients. It’sthe palm oil, carrageenan, cornstarch andcalcium carbonate on the list that I findquestionable. However, despite theseminor blemishes, Optimum Bars remain ahealthy and delicious snack option. Madefrom organic whole grains and fruits, theycome in five flavours, with the pomegran-ate and cherry variety being my hands-down winner for best taste and texture. Ifyou’re looking for a healthy alternative to acandy bar, these “sweetened” bars are afine choice.

Honourable Mention—Hippie Bars fromWhistler’s Own Bakeshop.

GOOD FOR YOU — by Pam Durkin

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The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137

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LOCAL HERO — by Katie Zdybel

bestSalt Spring Island’s farmer extraordinaire

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XAM MICHAELABLEMAN

Perched high upMt. Maxwell, in a clearingyou could miss if you didn’t know just howto find it, sits Foxglove Farm, one of B.C.’smost extraordinary farms. On this hot andbrilliantly sunny day, Foxglove’s 120 acresare alive with rows of strawberries, the curl-ing vines of melons and the bushy heads ofcarrots. Near the raspberry patch, an audi-ble buzz grows so loud you have to raiseyour voice to speak over it—very happybees are at toil. A new orchard boasts theexotic choices of Russian almonds, persim-mons, quince, fig and apricot. Foxglovegrows a rainbow spectrum of produce, andwhen they sell them at the island’s Tuesdayand Saturday farmer’s markets, aestheticsplay a large role. “I approach agriculturevery much as an artist,” says farmerMichael Ableman, meaning the farmland it-self is beautiful to behold, but so are thefruits of their labour. Bouquets of deep redbeets, rosy and golden carrots colour theirmarket stand in the fall while there are bas-kets of carefully chosen ruby berries in thesummer.Foxglove Farm is a local pearl. Not only

does it boast an impressive variety of artfully selected crops, it is also home to a culturaland education centre that offers a wide array of farming, art and community-buildingcourses. At the helm of this operation is farmer Michael Ableman who found his way toSalt Spring from California.The name Michael Ableman is well known among the West coast farming community. A

long career of very public organic farming includes his three books, the creation of Fox-glove Farm’s education centre and his 20 years at the Center for Urban Agriculture atFairview Gardens (a non-profit based on one of the oldest and most diverse organic farmsin southern California). I say public farming because there are two camps I’m familiar within the modern organic farming world. First, there are those farmers who grow and raiseand keep quietly to themselves, preferring the company of green things or four-footedcreatures. Then, there are those who grow and raise and feel inspired to share what they’velearned through writing and speaking and who invite people onto their land to experiencetheir farm firsthand, hoping to spread the message of organics and small farming throughhands-on experience. Ableman is gracefully of the latter camp.“The land informs us what goes on there—if you pay attention,” he told me as we sat

perched on a slope looking out over a vista of crops. “This landwants people here,” he said.A cluster of rustic cottage dwellings, a view that climbs up to the clouds, a walking trail tocool, refreshing Maxwell Lake seem to confirm Ableman’s intuition. It is easy to see whypeople love to retreat here in the original homestead dwelling and why they come to workas apprentices or to attend one of the many art and education programs Foxglove hosts(www.foxglovefarmbc.ca). And as welcoming as it is, the farm is also far enough off SaltSpring Island’s beaten path to filters its visitors and dwellers—you’ve really got to want tobe here to make the journey. It took Ableman himself quite a few years of annual visits be-fore he realized he wanted to live here. “You know, the land chooses us,” Ableman said,reflecting on his own journey. “And then you have to remember the person whose shoul-ders you’re standing on.” By this Ableman means not only the farmers who preceded himhere on the land, but also the native people who lived on Mt. Maxwell before them.It is his strong inclination to share his land that set Ableman apart. The education cen-

tre has back-to-back programs lined up throughout the summer with visiting artists, writ-ers and teachers to guide the variety of workshops. And while he clearly wants tomake themost of this farm, he refuses to exploit it. His unique approach to farming as an art form,his commitment to bringing people onto the farm and his clear respect for the history of theplace make Foxglove Farm truly special. Ableman looks out over the verdant crops andmuses, “This place is here to rejuvenate people, to nourish. All I’m doing is following itsscript.”

728 Humboldt Street in the Victoria Marriott Tel: (250) 480-3828

For a limited time.

tapas + wine nights

�is fall, Executive Chef Dave Roger is proud to present a new tantalizing Tapas menu. Pair this with our specially priced $20 bottles of wine from our exclusive feature sheet available on �ursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Visit www.marriottvictoria.com/�rewater to view menus.

* Special Tapas menu available daily, $20 bottles of select wine features are available on �ursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm to 10pm, September 1 to October 31, 2009. Minimum purchase of one Tapas order per person required in order to take advantage of the specially priced wine. Not valid with any other o�er. Promotion subject to end without notice.

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FOOD

MAD…

TRAVELSWITHJESSEOne proud father, one chef son and a well-informed week of eating well.

Travelling with a grown child is one of life’s luxuries, a rare treat. Travelling with one of mysons, a veteran chef who now ownsWildside Grill in Tofino, is even more fun. Every meal dur-ing our recent trip to southern California offered insight into the restaurant business. Half thetime, he even picked up the tab!Last year Jesse and I flew down to Seattle for a weekend while another of my sons (who

lives in California) was in Seattle coaching his college basketball team.We all had such a greattime Jesse and I decided to fly down to Los Angeles for a week of basketball and dining onCoach Blake’s home turf.I found us a cheap flight from Seattle to Burbank Airport on Southwest Air that avoided the

crowds and chaos of LA International and landed us nearer my son’s Cal State Northridge cam-pus. This time, we took the high-speed catamaran for the trip down to Seattle, and I watchedas Chef Jesse gleefully disassembled a $7.50 basket of smoked salmon, cream cheese, crack-ers, apple sauce and Italian cookies.“This is a big piece of wild salmon!” Jesse enthused. An avid hunter, surfer and fisherman

who spent one summer away from his cooking career as a fishing guide, my son was takenaback by the meal’s value.“We couldn’t put this package together for $7.50. This is great tasting smoked salmon.

Sadly, the packaging is a little over the top,” Chef Blake concluded.The next morning, we flew down to L.A.. Coach Blake met us after practice and drove us to

California Tamale House, his favourite Mexican joint in one of the San FernandoValley’s seem-ingly endless strip malls.“Not the greatest ambiance, but smell the fresh corn flavour of these tamales!” Jesse ex-

claimed as he unwrapped the corn husk to reveal the moist, homemade masa. He leaned for-ward and inhaled the tamale’s succulent shreds of roast chicken spiced with garlic, cuminseeds and amixture of powdered serrano and jalapeño peppers. “Themasa’s sweet moistnessprovides the perfect balance for themeat’s tender, spicy texture. Delicioso!” Chef Jesse crowed.Another of Coach Blake’s favourite haunts is Stevie’s Creole Café & Bar, a hangout for anAfrican-American crowd that includes celebrities like Magic Johnson, Sinbad and Jamie Foxx.We settled into a corner table and feasted on seafood gumbo with a big King Crab leg pokingout of the bowl, crispy-fired catfish and oysters, and delicious cornbread. Jesse and I bothwere disappointed that the gumbo substituted slices of Polish sausage for the essentialflavours of andouille sausage, but the room’s cool, urbane ambiance and everything else aboutour meal was more than satisfying.The Garden Terrace Café at the Getty Center is a great place to have lunch al fresco. The

buffet-style café offered a wide variety of modestly priced dishes from around the world usinglocal and organic produce, but Jesse was critical of the organization of multiple cashiers andcondiment stations. That part of the café needed a redesign, but the patio provided a bucolicsetting in the Getty’s spectacular gardens.On a drive south along the Pacific Coast Highway, we discovered Nick’s in Laguna Beach.

Jesse perked up as soon as we settled into a booth near the glassed-in kitchen.“Look at this room,” he raved. “Someone who has been in the restaurant business awhile

put this together. It’s sominimally elegant and streamlined. There’s not a rough edge or wastedspace in the place.” Jesse found the menu equally well-thought-out and attractive.I learned Nick’s was an outgrowth of a series of restaurants including the Claim Jumper chain

and the original Nik’s in Long Beach, a diner with iconic status in the 1950s. The grandson ofthe original owner (who actually founded Nik’s as a hotdog stand in the 1920s outside theOlympic Auditorium in downtown LA) was a partner in this modern, Laguna Beach restaurant.Jesse’s intuition about the place was exactly right. Nick’s had been almost a century in themaking.We made one more discovery before heading home—breakfast at Aroma Bakery Café in

Encino. “Look at all these exotic offerings,” Jesse said while leafing through the café’s sprawl-ing menu. We saw dozens of versions of Jerusalem bagel toasts, including one with Labanespread and Zaatar plus Samboosaks and Ziva puffed pastries from the clay oven. “This placeis great. We’ve got to come back and have lunch here!”I learned a lot frommy son during our week in LA. Now I watch for a server’s body language,

and when there is an open kitchen I check out the neatness of the chef’s work stations. I’mmore attentive to the room’s design and notice if it and the menu reflect clarity and purpose.I think about the boy who used to make a mess in my kitchen and how he grew up to be awise and hard working chef. It makes me proud.

California Tamale House, 15404 Nordoff St., North HillsStevie’s Creole Café & Bar, 16911 Ventura Blvd., EncinoGarden Terrace Café at Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Dr., Los AngelesNick’s, 440 S. Coast Highway, Laguna BeachAroma Bakery Café, 18047 Ventura Blvd., Encino

GET AWAYS — by Joseph Blake

Gary

Hynes

Cucina Tradizionale Gastronomia Locale

LaRistorante

iola3189 Quadra St. Next to the Italian Bakery

Call for reservations: 388-4517www.lapiola.ca

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Modern west coast cuisine with internationalinspirations, served in Victoria’s nicest room.

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250-383-2313

Get fresh

Innovative seasonal cuisine to share with friends2583 Cadboro Bay Rd. | (250) 598 2828

There are times when opening a business opens the door to roles beyond business. ForJames and Angeline Street, launching BramblesMarket has turned them into educators, ad-vocates and network builders as well as newly minted entrepreneurs.Their new enterprise in downtown Courtenay is making its mark as the first grocery store

in the province to sell British Columbia goods exclusively. Gambling that the demand forlocal is potent enough to sustain an entire market, the Streets have stocked the shelveswith produce, dry goods, meat, frozen foods, dairy items, baking and preserves fromsources across the street and across the province. Of their 180 suppliers, 90 percent arefrom Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland, which adds up to remarkably fresh mer-chandise for a grocery store context.“Everything we have in our case today was picked yesterday,” Angeline said during a re-

cent interview. There’s a palpable excitement in her voice as she does.Customers have responded with equal enthusiasm, expressing appreciation that staff

can report where items come from as well as the exact ingredients. They also like that prod-ucts have been sourced with due diligence, though the Streets have found themselvesneeding to educate those accustomed to a year-round supply of any fruit or vegetable.With store offerings corresponding to the B.C. growing season, some customers need helpgrasping the concept of seasonal availability.Customer confusion aside, Angeline Street reports their biggest challenge has been es-

tablishing a steady supply chain. “We are building infrastructure from the ground up,” shesays, adding it’s beyond a full-time job to find producers, working from approved facilities,to stock the shelves with strictly B.C. products.While noting it’s hard to be the first, the Streets feel they are fulfilling amuch-needed role

in creating the infrastructure for a province-wide supply chain. In doing so, they’ve becomethe “go-to” people for other retailers, restaurants and suppliers. They’ve also become a se-cure, year-round source of sales for growers, and in that regard hope the presence of Bram-bles translates into increased business for B.C. food producers.“Our hope is that we can achieve high enough levels to make it worthwhile for more

farmers to grow food,” she says.This is where James and Angeline Street have become advocates: they want Brambles to

be an example to other stores and for consumers to demand more local products whenthey realize the range of what’s available. They believe this combination is crucial to mak-ing B.C. food production more sustainable.That said, they are not looking to preach to customers, most of whom “are not those

beating the drums the loudest, but rather people making a conscious decision to eat bet-ter.” Angeline adds that they’ve identified no typical customer trait beyond a desire to getback to “real” food.“We are bringing in food that tastes like youwould remember as a kid,” she explains. And

that seems to be the role making the biggest impact of all.Brambles Market; 24-A 4th Street; Courtenay, B.C.; 250-334-8163; www.bramblesmarket.ca


FOOD MATTERS — by Laurie Guy

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Bistro 28 | 2583 Cadboro Bay Rd., Victoria | 250.598-2828

Chef Sam Chalmers of Bistro 28 breathes a sigh of relief as I confirm his approach to themenu for his almost thirty days old restaurant – and chuckles nervously… “Yes, there is asense of humor in mymenu andmy culinary methodology – and you got it.” Although I wouldhave described his approach and delivery as intellectual whimsy on the plate, the overarch-ing result is that of perfection well beyond Sam’s 29 years on the planet. Sam shrugs, “I didthe program at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and the Northwest CulinaryAcademy for pastry… and was ready… eager… to dig in.”Owning a restaurant and being the chef de cuisine is a tall order for someone twice Sam’s

age but he learnt the management side of the house running various night clubs in Edmon-ton, Alberta – got some schooling under his cap and cut his teeth at the Superior Café, Stageand Bon Rouge – and then surrounded himself with some good people before launching hisown venture.My dinner companion and I sip a five-ounce glass of New Zealand Syrah during the first of

subsequent visits to Bistro 28. She picked a four-ounce Kobe steak, medium rare withpommes frites, its texture like Ahi tuna – utterly melt-in-your-mouth! Kobe-style beef origi-nates in Japan, is beer fed, massaged with sake and slaughtered painlessly and humanely –by design, it’s well-marbled and like many items on Bistro 28’s intellectually gifted menu,tends to weigh in on the modest end of the portion size.I have pork belly three ways; grilled pork belly medallions on brown beans, a diminutive

wedge of roast pork belly and pulled pork on grilled toast.What I noticed, almost immediatelyabout Bistro 28, is the irrepressible desire to converse with our fellow diners – there was anendless show and tell of adjacent food delivery replete with sighs of satisfaction… and prom-ises of future exploration.We return within a few nights and virtually all twenty-six seats on the floor (and 10 at the

bar) are filled. We open with local spot prawns “Pil Pil”- baked in Olive oil, chili’s, garlic andparsley lemon gremolata on a toasted baguette. There are some simple ingredients for thisclassic Spanish tapa but care in execution is critical – and Sam nailed it; sweetness in theprawn, a flirtation of heat, some ringing astringency in the citrus and just enough garlic notto overbear the shellfish. Our mains include scallops capped with a round of crisp, grilledpork belly and a side of greens. I have the porcini dusted halibut, garnished with cilantro ona bed of celeriac – stunning.

We close with double shots of 2% Jazz espresso coffee, a chocolate bowl (with a glance ofblack rock salt) and a maple tart. – Colin Newel

RESTAURANT REPORTER: VICTORIA

The websityou refuse? Aers Jennifer Mtheir James Bin. Gallopingstruck CheesMountain Asproduce fromsquash – strachanges consdrop off flatsberry bonanzThe 1,000-s

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From top center, clockwise: Kusshi,Phantom creek, Malpeque, Little Wing,Fanny Bay, Satori, Black pearlat Oyster.

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The Oyster Bar| 614 Humboldt St., Victoria | 250.385.5562

Slinging back raspberry mojitos and sweet jazz, I perusethe oyster guide at the oyster, yet another of MikeMurphy’sbrainchildren. No effinghams (“plump, tender, briny, lettucelike finish”) today, but nomatter, the kusshis (“buttery, rich,salty, sweet, mildly fruity finish”), and a maybe the phan-tom creek (“fresh + sweet with a slightly fruity aftertaste”)from premium list will do. There is a steady cross breezefrom the open French doors and, with its deep orange walls,high ceilings, trendy staff and sleek bar, The oyster is hipand welcoming.

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” – JonathanSwift (from the oyster website)

The lunch menu includes a House Smoked Beef Carpac-cio, Pan Seared Sooke Trout and Lobster and King Crab Can-nelloni. Dinner offers Oysters Rockefeller, Braised BeefShort Ribs and Chili Roasted Jumbo Prawns. I was im-pressed by the raw scallop that was on special when I vis-ited. Served on its own six-inch span shell, this guestappearance was delicate, substantial and wonderful to be-hold.The oyster has live music Fridays and Saturdays and DJ

beats on Sundays. Victoria is always in need of more livemusic venues, and this is a sweet location, On tap, theyserve seven of the finest local beers, including DriftwoodBrewery’s White Bark Ale.

—by Gillie Easdon

Chef Sam Chalmers w/ Grilled Metchosin Lamb Chops, Minted andCreamed Mushy Peas, Mixed Pea and Sesame Salad, Duck Jus.

CORNWelcome


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h a glance of

The website encourages us to, “Get fresh with a local.With an invite like that, how canyou refuse? And it’s not just a cute tagline (though that it is). Niagara Grocery’s new own-ers Jennifer McKimmie and Ken Winchester aim to introduce two local products a week totheir James Bay shop. And it certainly hasn’t been difficult to source local so far, fivemonthsin. Galloping Goose Sausage, Babe’s Honey, Portofino Breads, Hot Chick Spices, Moon-struck Cheese, Denman Island Chocolates as well as offerings from Langford Foods andMountain Ash Farm – and that’s just a small sampling and doesn’t even include the freshproduce from the Saanich Peninsula. I recently spied tayberries, pea shoots and pattypansquash – straight from small-scale local farms. Of course, with such freshness, selectionchanges constantly. And that’s a big benefit according to McKimmie. “We’ll have a farmerdrop off flats of berries at 4 p.m. and Ken will colour it up on the chalkboard outside – “localberry bonanza” – and within an hour, there isn’t a berry left to be had!The 1,000-square-foot building on Niagara just west of Government was originally a barn

dating back to 1907, during the days when Niagara Street was amain streetcar route. It re-mained a popular little sundries store up until April 2009, when the couple took it over.And while they still stock the household essentials (light bulbs, balloons, cat food, etc.),those items share floor space with fresh line-caught halibut, gluten-free fare and freshlylaid eggs. Welcome to the new generation corner store. Pushed aside of late by the flashof the 7-Elevens and gas stations of the world, Niagara Grocery is part of a growing ren-aissance of community, owner-operated shops catering to their particular neighbourhood,and in tune with what people are looking for nowadays – flavour and fresh over flash. Ex-tensive cleaning and renos by the pair has opened up the store considerably. Hardwoodfloors lie where there once was ancient laminate, coats of paint have freshened the wallsand boarded-up windows have been unsheathed to let in the natural light. The interiorshelving space has also been rejigged, allowing for easy-wheeled access for everythingfrom strollers to wheelchairs – a reflection of the spectrum of locals that have quickly be-come regulars.McKimmie andWinchester come by this food-and-beverage passion naturally, both well-

known figures in the local food and wine community. McKimmie was most recently direc-tor of food and beverage for the Fairmont Empress, while Winchester foundedaward-winning Winchester Cellars and developed local favourite Victoria Gin.Being in the store for 12 hours a day every day since April 1 hasn’t dampened their en-

thusiasm – or their creativity. Winchester has begun Mile 0 Coffee Roasters, a boutiquebeans-by-demand roastery that customizes blends for individuals, restaurants, B&Bs andmore. McKimmie, a certified tea sommelier, has begun importing loose-leaf tea and creat-ing her own blends – again, customizing upon request. Both tea and coffee outlets com-plement the store well and are growing daily in popularity. Which was the plan from dayone. “We wanted to create a real neighbourhood place – a community fixture - where fam-ilies could come, find something special and purchase local and fresh,” says Winchester.Fresh with a local indeed.

Niagara Grocery, 567 Niagara St., Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. 250-383-1223, www.niagaragrocery.com, local pantry page is updated regularly.

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85.5562

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Beef Carpac-ing Crab Can-Braised Beef. I was im-al when I vis-l, this guestnderful to be-

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CORNERSTOREANDMOREWelcome to the new generation convenience store.—byTreve Ring

Owners Jen McKimmie and Ken Winchesterwaterfront restaurant + patio

680 MONTREAL STREET VICTORIA BC CANADA V8V 1Z8T 250.414.6739 TF 1.800.663.7667 WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA

waterfront restaurant + patio

Shaken. Stirred. Sunset.

Floor-to-ceiling views of Victoria’s sparkling Inner Harbour West Coast Pacifi c Rim-inspired cuisine Sunday brunch

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INN AT LAUREL POINT680 MONTREAL STREET T 250.414.6739 WWW.AURARESTAURANT.CA


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The Budget Gourmet

EATINGWELLFORLESS—byElizabeth Smyth

Demitasse, 2164 McNeill at Roslyn, 598-6668

Demitasse has romance. Informal, rustic, small French village romance, but romancenonetheless. This cosy neighbourhood deli, bakery, and cornerstore offers a host of sweetand savoury treats: mushroom strudel, portabella and asparagus tart, tofu in garlic and or-ange dressing, spanakopita, beet and kale salad, and chicken pot pie are just a few of thesurprisingly large repertoire of goodies such a small place spills out.Two French chefs are hard at work in the kitchen, and their training shows. The base of

pastry in the portabella and asparagus tart has soft, translucent layers; the mushroomstrudel boasts the same pastry encasing fresh, earthy seasonal mushrooms blended withCambozola cheese. The spanakopita has a subtle difference from the norm; the requisitecreamy spinach and cheese puree is there, but it also has big chunks of cheese providingsome firm texture and substance when you bite in. An excellent light accompaniment tothese richer dishes is the beet, kale, and goat cheese salad. It looks like Christmas andtastes like summer. The raw baby kale and grated beets are topped with the daintiest oflemon vinaigrettes, and themild cheese provides a creamy counterpoint. Demitasse is alsoa coffee and dessert destination.The renowned children’s favourite, the peanut butter crispy square with three jaunty

Smarties on top, wound up beingmy surprise favourite as well, though to name a favouriteis definitely to split hairs. Lemon squares are the perfect balance of sweet and tart, thepecan squares are velvety luxury in every bite, and the carrot cake cookie is a witty inver-sion of the cake, with two soft cookie layers sandwiching a cream cheese icing. The sweetsrange in price from $2.75 to $3.50; the savouries are priced by the piece or by 100 grams,and are all reasonable. There are only ten seats; hopefully you can snag one and linger; ifnot, Demitasse is well set up for take-out.

Kuku’s, 24 Burnside RoadWest at Harriet, 778-430-KUKUBefore I give you the lowdown on Kuku’s best deal, the $18.95 family combo, I just have totell you about the goat curry, which got me very excited. The thick, dry sauce redolent ofonions and Masala spices clings to chunks of tender goat meat. This curry has a robust,masculine quality; in contrast, the butter chicken seems more feminine. It is delicate; thetomato and sweet cream flavours dance, and the spicing is subtle. The very mild spicing is

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Owner Rob Rogers with mushroom strudel and peanut butter crispy square

Kukus family

Experteas

www.silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

100% ORGANIC | FA IRTRADE | LOC ALLY OWNED & OPERATED

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There’s always something brewing at Silk Road!

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an appropriate choice, as the butter chicken is the mainstay of the abovementioned fam-ily combo. Also included are saffron rice, which is nothing special; four fat samosas gen-erously stuffed with potatoes, peas, and carrots; and four pieces of gulab jamun, a sweet,sticky milk ball in rose-flavoured sugar syrup. Howmany people does the combo feed? It’shard to say. Enthusiastic EATMagazine readers – probably two. Adults with more dainty ap-petites – maybe three. This is an excellent deal for a frugal and hungry diner who is willingto pick up; adding in the $5.00 cost of delivery still makes it a fair price. To supplement thefamily combo, other good picks are the shrimp and fish pakora. The deep-frying is donecarefully, resulting in a crisp, non-greasy batter. The accompanying dips are interesting;the deep amber tamarind sauce blends notes of sweet and sour, and the grass-colouredmint sauce is a puree of green onions, cilantro, mint of course, and green chili peppers. TheKuku’s concept focuses on takeout, but there are six bar stools for eating on site, and park-ing is around the corner on Harriet St. Coming soon is a buffet adjoining the take-out joint.Herewith is my official request to the owners that the goat curry be on that buffet table. I’dpay extra.

Connoisseur Catering, 2512 Bridge St. at Bay, 250-590-3911,I stumbled upon this place when I was fleeing from the home reno stores in this industrialarea. This restaurant is set up to provide carb and protein loading to the construction work-ers, serving quick burgers, spaghetti and meatballs, and the like. But wait a second. Whythe rich morel and oyster mushroom soup as the soup of the day? Where did this comefrom? I wasn’t complaining, but it seemed so out of context.Well, it turns out there are twosides to this business.As well as the fixed sheet of meat joint standards, there are also daily specials – daily spe-

cials which often coincide with whatever dishes the owners are working on for their cater-ing business. So, if they have a catering gig the day you go, you just might end up enjoyingsaid morel soup…or Italian pepperonata stew…or lemon-scented salmon fillet. The salmonwas light, moist, and served on a bed of mixed greens and julienned vegetables. And thepepperonata was excellent. This Italian sausage stew boasted chunks of flavourful sausageand rough-cut onions and green, red, and yellow peppers. The tomato sauce for the stewspeaks to chef Cesare’s Italian origins - it is bright and flavourful, with hand-diced piecesof tomato in it and bright flavours of basil, oregano, and garlic. This is like nothing you canbuy in a store.Another out-of-context surprise was the dessert, which wasn’t even on the board, but

was offered to us verbally. It was an out-and-out glamorous confection called zuccotto. It’sa cross between a trifle and a baked Alaska. Swirls of strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla ice-cream are sandwiched between layers of almond sponge cake soaked in Strega liquor; thewhole thing is topped with a layer of chocolate ganache. Cesare uses his mother’s recipe,which goes to show, once again, that the personal touch is in the specials. Amazingly, thesespecials are offered for the same price as the fixed menu: $8.00 gets you an entrée servedwith a choice of French fries, clam chowder, soup of the day, or mixed greens salad. For theexperience of Italy the pepperonata gaveme, this is beyond fair. You are welcome to phoneahead to ask what the daily specials are.

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Yo u b o u , C o w i c h a n L a k e , B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a10524 Youbou Rd | 250-745-3388 | w w w.youboubargri l l .com

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Kukus family combo – butter chicken, rice, naan, 4 samosas, gulab jamun $18.95

Lunchin theVineyardText by JENNIFER SCHELL-PIGOTTPhotography by GARY HYNES

TRAVEL REPORTER: THE OKANAGAN VALLEYOn a glofood annoir-ladfarmershonour

On a gloriously sunny October day, a group of local Okanagan epicureans, including localfood and wine writer Jennifer Schell-Pigott, gathered for a potluck lunch amid pinotnoir-laden vines at CedarCreek Estate Winery. Some of the region’s most celebrated chefs,farmers, artisan food producers, winemakers, writers and all-purpose foodies were there tohonour the harvest and celebrate life in wine country with their community.


One long harvest table was becomingly draped in white tablecloths and setatop a layer of hay to keep the vineyard dust under control. Hosts TomDiBello,CedarCreek’s winemaker, and his artist wife Tari had arranged the transporta-tion of all of the tables, chairs, dishes and cutlery up to this rugged venue. Onecould hear gasps as guests emerged from the wooded path onto the surprisevista of secluded hilltop vineyard and spectacular lake view.The buffet table, laden with the potluck offerings, was just as spectacular.

There was Michael Allemeier’s dynamite pulled pork sandwiches and cheesegalore from beloved Poplar Grove cheesemaker Gitta Sutherland. Also on thetable: baskets of artisan breads from bakery friends; fresh salad greens withedible flowers from Donna Denison at Little Creek Gardens; Summerland heir-loom tomato and goat cheese tarts; B.C. scallops from local seafood shopHooked on Seafood; a genius goat milk gelato brought by award-winning goatcheese artisans Ofri and Ofre Barmor from Carmelis; and cute little cakes in ajar fromMonika and BillWalker at Okanagan Grocery/Artisan Breads. Chef RodButters wowed everyone with his cream cheese mousse topped with locallygrown golden raspberries. The key words on the menu?Made/raised/grown/created locally.Toasts were made and a round of Raven Ridge’s newest venture, iced Anjou

pear cider, was distributed. Tom DiBello asked us to raise our glasses to thoseout in the fields and vineyards working hard to get the crush completed. ChefGeoffrey Couper of the Corked Cook Food andWine Co. (“Cheffrey,” as he is af-fectionately known) was theman at the grill, carving and serving up Armstrongraised lamb tenderloin andmixed sausages from his favourite source for meats,North Okanagan Game Meats. He took a break to explain the unique piece ofsculpture displayed nearby by guest Annabel Stanley (wife of Grant Stanley,winemaker at Quail’s Gate).For many in this group, especially the growers, autumn is their busiest sea-

son and this was a precious break in a busy day. So conversation came easilyand often focused on the issue of how to sustain, maintain and strategicallygrow what has become their protected and beloved terroir. DiBello delighted

the crowd with his pre-harvest fortune telling. Throwing a grape high into theair, the winemaker advised that if he could catch it in his mouth, the forecastwould be for a smooth harvest. If he missed, well, disaster awaited. Thereshould have been a drum roll at this point—the grape was thrown and im-pressively caught.All of the chefs who attended this gastronomist’s convention of sorts share

common philosophies, which is probably what brought them to this fertile val-ley in the first place. They are all practicing sustainability, cooking with local in-gredients, supporting the farmers and the good health of our entirecommunity—physically and financially. They care about what they are goingto feed us, and how we can support each other. It is a very old world lifestyle.Not unusual for those of us raised by parents on farms, especially Europeanimmigrants. You learned to use everything you had—growing your own fruitsand vegetables and then canning them for the winter. Raising a pig for hamand sausage, chickens for eggs, grapes for wine—even geese for feathers andfood. What you didn’t have could be traded for with your neighbour. This iscommunity.As the world goes through its cycles of financial changes and uncertainty, it

is pleasing to watch a community like this focus on what is really important:sustainability, collaboration and farming. Growing up on an apple orchard, I al-ways found it difficult to understand the financial difficulties farmers inevitablydealt with. “But you are growing food!?” I remember saying, bewildered, to myDad. “And why do the stores sell apples from Washington and not ours?”Thankfully, the “eat locally” campaign has begun again.At the end of our wonderful day, a real breadcrumb path lead us back to our

cars with our empty plates and bowls. Full, relaxed and perhaps a little more in-spired about our community’s future, there was also a feeling of pride in con-tributing something that had been lovingly made with one’s own two handsand shared at a communal table.The last words I heard from all were, “When are we doing this again?”

We were in Mother Nature’s dining hall, theoccasional buzz of a tractor or the beep of avineyard manager’s walkie-talkie to remind us

that we were, indeed, in the midst of a harvest. Itwas the perfect backdrop for what this tribe offood folk represents: those behind the label.

left to right / top to bottom: 1. A long table set up right in the middle of the pinot noir vineyard awaits its guests. 2.Monika and Bill Walkerof Okanagan Grocery/Artisan Breads 3. A selection of Carmelis cheeses 4. Judith Knight, Michael Allemeier, Rod Butters, Geoffrey Couper,Jennifer Schell-Pigott 5.Mairead Fitzpatrick delivers the good(ies) 6. CedarCreek’s winemaker Tom DiBello was kept busy opening bottlesof Okanagan wine. 7. EAT was there. 8.Michael Allemeier’s pulled pork sandwiches 9. Salad greens with edible flowers from Little CreekGardens

23

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Having Their SayI asked a few of the group some questions regarding the fu-ture of the Okanagan Valley and what inspires them. Here’swhat they had to say:

Geoffrey Couper, chef, the Corked CookI hope to see the Okanagan develop as a magnet for peopleinterested in learning about the many facets of food andwine. Education is the foundation of appreciation; industryand government working together to support and encouragecultural growth at all levels.What inspires me beyond the op-portunity to work alongside the passionate producers, wine-makers and fellow chefs is the chance to help shape theindustry as it develops. Favourite local ingredient is PinotNoir, hands down! After that it’s a toss up between MilanDjordjevich’s Stoney Paradise Farm tomatoes; the lamb, veni-son and wild boar from North Okanagan Game Meats; StuReads over-the-top berries at Black Raven Farm; or thekabocha squash from Tony Cetinski at Suncatcher Farm.

Michael Allemeier, former winery chef, Mission HillFamily Estate WineryWe have only begun. As more people discover how rich thiswine region is, our community will grow and prosper. I seemore cooksmoving here and the food only getting better andbetter. This is one of our country’s richest agriculture regions;we produce some of the best ingredients in the land, and it’sonly natural that this will attract cooks. We truly have ourown terroir and you can taste this in Okanagan wines. Whatwe need is more world-class accommodation and bettertransportation infrastructure (a wine train, for example). Myfavourite local ingredient depends on the season. However,if I had to choose I would say quince. Love it fresh and loveto can it to use in leaner seasons.

Rod Butters, chef/owner, RAUdz Regional TableMy vision is to further the opportunities for chefs to createworld-class cuisine based on the bounty of the Okanagan.This entails many things of course. First, the awareness andsupport of independent restaurants/hotels/inns and golfcourses that reflect this vision. Second, the working part-nerships between chef and supplier. This must continue togrow. And third, the education of our food service profes-sionals. We have incredible wineries producing world-classwines. We have some of Canada’s best chefs applying theircraft here. The one thing missing is a world-class accommo-dation like Sooke Harbour House or Wickaninnish Inn.I find the sun inspires me! It puts me in a positive frame of

mind to tackle my day personally and professionally. Work-wise the tremendous opportunity that the Okanagan repre-sents is inspiring. This truly is the “chef’s ultimateplayground.” So to pick one favourite ingredient would beimpossible. I will say that the first delivery of spinach is a re-minder that another incredible growing season will soon beupon us.

Bernard Casavant, certified chef de cuisine, Sonora RoomRestaurant at Burrowing Owl Estate WineryThe culinary future of the Okanagan is very bright for nu-merous reasons. Themost prominent I feel is that the area isgrowing rather quickly, and it seems that the younger peo-ple are moving here, rather than just retirees. These new res-idents are more knowledgeable about food and wine, and assuch support better restaurant operators and farmers alike.As a result, I think we will continue to see the advancementof superior agriculture and also the continued growth of ourrestaurants. My inspiration lies with the farmers and pro-ducers. I am constantly humbled with the vast amount of

dedication they show. They are truly our unsung culinary he-roes.My absolute favourite ingredient would have to be heir-

loom tomatoes. They are so colourful, with fantastic varietyin texture and taste. To achieve our true culinary destinationpotential, we must provide constant support to local farm-ers and producers. Buy local! This coupled with quality ac-commodation and restaurants will aid in the continuedgrowth of our agri-tourism sector. A great wine and food ex-perience for all of our visitors is needed to ensure that theyreturn, after having a genuine taste of our region.

Nicole Bullock, orchardist and proprietor, Raven RidgeCideryMy vision for the future in the Okanagan is sustainability. Ipersonally think that if you want to save it, you must eat it. Ihave to agree with the new saying: “Vote with your fork.”What inspires me is the new/old way of being in contact withthe people who produce our food.We are slowly becoming acommunity dependent on each other again. My favourite in-gredients to cook with are tomatoes and Hungarian peppers.The Okanagan Valley needs to honour not only the commer-cial farmers but also the neighbours who so nicely pass youa bag of lettuce or potatoes that they have too much of. Indoing so, the potential of community will be achieved.

Donna Denison, owner/creator, Little Creek DressingsMy vision is to establish a higher profile of respect and ap-preciation for the farmers who grow our food, and the arti-sans who create culinary delights with that food. Whatinspires me is the absolutely profound beauty of nature, andthe abundance of what can be produced in the Okanagan.My favourite ingredient is Dale’s [husband and grower of Lit-tle Creek salad greens] certified organic arugula and saladmixes, accented with local cheese, nuts or fruits and toppedwith Little Creek Dressing! Celebrate, create, gather, shareand support the artisans of food—farmers, producers, chefs,culinary appreciators.

MonikaWalker, owner/baker, Okanagan Grocery/ArtisanBreadsThe future will see an increasing number of restaurants andother food businesses working more closely with local pro-ducers and farmers. Only a few years ago, some valleyrestaurants had wine lists consisting entirely of Australian

and Californian wines—shocking by today’s standards. Myinspiration is the overwhelming selection and incrediblequality of fruits and vegetables. Every time I think I’ve founda new favourite, something else comes along and blows mymind. I visit Mark Filatow at Waterfront, and he drops someincredible berries into the palm ofmy hand. Or I drop off a de-livery for the folks at Urban Harvest, and they introduce meto a new variety of apple (Aurora Golden Gala—yum!) Theapple is king tome. And the Okanagan definitely has the bestapples I’ve ever eaten. My current favourite is the “Honey-crisp,” introduced to me by Penny [Gambell] from GambellFarms. We have talented new people arriving here all thetime and some extremely skillful visionaries in place to men-tor them. As long as the existing culinary hotspots keep uptheir level of quality and consistency, we will have no prob-lem achieving a higher potential.

Gitta Sutherland, owner/creator, Poplar Grove CheeseI don’t think I have any magical answers to your questions,but for me there is always a fear of changes happening toofast. I would like to see the Okanagan and its small commu-nities stay as the little pieces of heaven they are, without try-ing to pretend we are like the big cities. There is somethingso unique about the Okanagan, with the small farms pro-ducing everything under the sun, and I’d like to keep seeingit that way. I welcome all the new ventures that aim to bringtourists up to our area to enjoy the bounty of the Okanagan,cooking classes, winery events, restaurants that feature localproduce and wine. And I love to see the awareness that isevolving, in eating locally, supporting our industry.

Judith Knight, chef, CedarCreek Terrace RestaurantMy culinary vision for the Okanagan would have to be a foodand wine mecca, where producers are plentiful and are en-couraged to grow the wonderful heirloom varieties of fruitsand vegetables that once existed. Don’t get me wrong; thereare some wonderful growers here already, but I don’t thinkthey get the encouragement they deserve. We need thesecaring people to grow our food. So I would just like to seemore government recognition and affirmative action for smallfarmers. People are becomingmore interested in where theirfood is coming from. I’d like to think that people would comehere on food and wine holidays to spend a little time work-ing in a vineyard and do a little gardening. Relax and de-stress! (I would also like to see more funky little places toeat.) The pace of life here is pretty cool. I am inspired by theamazing quality of the wine being produced in this valley.Also the climate is so great for growing the most amazingfruits and vegetables. Favourite local ingredients arepeaches, nectarines, tomatoes, abundant basil and heavenlycorn.

Mark Filatow, chef, 764 Restaurant/Waterfront WinesRestaurant & Wine BarI see the Okanagan coming of age. We have fantastic ingre-dients and a developing camaraderie between chefs, that willfuel a common vision/ goal and band together to promotethe valley. The ingredients inspire me.... When I worked inTofino I used to pick up Dungeness Crab straight from theBoat. Here in the Okanagan I can pick herbs and Tomatoesfrom my own garden, stop by a cheese producer, Organicfarmer, Artisan Bread Baker and a Fish monger that suppliesme with fresh BC Seafood all on the way to work. That in-spires me....the personalities...real people...real ingredients.The people in the Okanagan need to stand up and buylocal...don't be afraid to eat seasonally. Support places thatbuy local. Cherries don't taste good in January, unless youare using some that you dried or canned at the peak of theirseason.

Preparation

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(250) 642-35961831 Maple Ave. Sooke

www.markuswharfsiderestaurant.com

Vancouver Island’sbest kept secret

Markus’Wharfside Restaurant

Preparation time: 30 minutes, Cooking time: About 60 minutes,Makes: 4 servings

• 1 medium acorn squash, quartered lengthwise, seeds removed and discarded• 3 Tbsp olive oil• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste• 2 fresh chorizo sausages• 1/2 medium onion, finely diced• 1 small fresh fennel bulb, core removed, remaining bulb, thinly sliced• 1/2 cup dry white wine• 2 ripe medium tomatoes, finely chopped• 2 Tbsp store-bought or homemade pesto• 2 lbs. fresh clams, rinsed in cold water (see Note)• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Line a 9- x 13-inch baking dish with parchment paper. Set in thesquash, skin-side down. Pour in enough water to just coat the bottom the pan. Brush theflesh of the squash with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Cover androast the squash 20 minutes. Uncover the squash and roast 20 to 25 minutes more, oruntil tender.When the squash are about 15 minutes from being done, heat the remaining oil in wide-

bottomed pot set over medium to medium-high heat. Remove the casing from eachsausage and pull themeat into small nuggets (about 1/2-inch round) and set in the pot. Frythe sausage until cooked through. Add the onion and fennel and cook until tender, about3 to 4 minutes. Add the wine, tomatoes and pesto and bring to a simmer. Simmer 3 to 4minutes, and then season with salt and pepper.When the squash is tender, turn off the oven. Add the clams to the sausage/tomatomix-

ture, bring back to a simmer, cover, and cook just until the clams open. Set a quarter squashin each of 4 wide, shallow bowls. Divide and spoon the clams and their cooking liquid overthe squash on each plate. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.Note: Discard any clams that do not close when squeezed or tapped before cooking, orthose that do not open after cooking. Both are signs the clam is dead and should not beeaten.

STEAMEDCLAMS ã|à{ CHORIZOSAUSAGEONROASTEDSQUASH

COVER RECIPE

Earthy, in-season squash provides a tasty and nutritious basefor local clams steamed with tasty bits of chorizo sausage.

MichaelTourigny


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PUMP& SPIC

One of my peis just thick ebig jack-o-lanPie Pumpkins

• Butter, 2 tb• Fresh sage• Shallots, 2• Sea salt• Garlic clove• Maple syru• Chicken bro• Chopped p•Wild rice, 1• Table cream

Melt butter ishallots anduntil fragrantBring to a bo

Al FrescoFall Feast

PORK CHOPS with SIZZLED ONIONS & GRAPES

KitchenLocal


Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTERPhotography by GENEVIEVE LAPLANTE

Take it outside – weather permitting, of course, for one last backyard dinner.Or make it a lunch on a sunny Sunday. No matter where you eat it, celebratethe bounty of fall with this sumptuous menu.

PUMPKIN SOUP ã|à{ WILD RICE& SPICY SOURDOUGH CROUTONS

One of my pet peeves is a pureed soup that’s so thick it’s akin to baby food. Not here – thisis just thick enough with a luscious velvety texture. When cooking with pumpkin, leave thebig jack-o-lanterns for the kids to carve and choose smaller Sugar Pumpkins or New EnglandPie Pumpkins – they’re much sweeter and less grainy.

• Butter, 2 tbsp• Fresh sage, 2 to 3 large sprigs• Shallots, 2, chopped• Sea salt• Garlic cloves, 2, minced• Maple syrup, 2 tbsp• Chicken broth, 4 cups• Chopped pumpkin or butternut squash, 8 cups• Wild rice, 1/4 cup• Table cream, 1 cup

Melt butter in a large wide saucepan or Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add sage andshallots and a good pinch of salt. Stir until shallots are translucent, 5 min. Add garlic and stiruntil fragrant, about 30 sec. Pour in syrup and add pumpkin. Stir to coat, then pour in broth.Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat. Simmer until pumpkin is very soft, 15 to 18 min.

Meanwhile, boil wild rice until tender, 30 to 40 min, then drain. Toss with a drizzle of oliveoil to keep grains from clumping.When pumpkin is soft, stir in cream and remove from heat.Discard sage, then puree soup in batches and strain into a clean saucepan. Taste and add

more salt, if needed. Reheat before serving but don’t boil or creamwill split. Spoon into bowlsand garnish with wild rice and croutons.Croutons: Lightly toast 2 cups sourdough bread cut into croutons. Warm1/4 cup olive oil

then stir in 1 tsp cayenne pepper and a pinch of salt. Pour over toasted bread and toss tomix. Spread out on a baking sheet and bake in 350F until crunchy, about 5 min.

PORK CHOPS ã|à{ SIZZLED ONIONS& GRAPESSautéed to golden sweetness, this onion-grape topper is a welcome change from thepredictable porcine accompaniment - applesauce. Source local pork from your butcher andbe sure to let the meat rest after cooking to redistribute all the delicious juices.

• Butter, small knob• Double loin pork loin centre cut chops, 6• Pinches of sea salt and pepper• Onions, sliced, 2• Garlic cloves, 2, minced• Red seedless grapes, 2 cups• Red wine vinegar, 1/3cup• Chopped fresh basil, 1 cup (optional)

Melt butter in a large wide frying pan set over medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of chopswith salt and pepper then add to pan. Sear both sides, about 3 min. per side the place on abaking sheet.Add onions to pan (add more butter, if needed) and reduce heat to medium. Stir often,

until onions are soft and golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Meanwhile, finish chops in preheated450F oven, about 5 to 7 min., depending on their thickness.When onions are done, stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 min. Increase heat to

medium-high and add grapes and vinegar. Cover and cook until grapes start to break down,2 to 3 minutes. Stir in basil. To serve, arrange chops on a platter and spoon onion mixtureovertop.

Rosemary roasted potatoesThe smell of fragrant garlic and rosemary fills the house with autumnal aromas. Be sure tosqueeze the garlic out of their roasty skins – they’re heavenly mashed over the spuds.

Cont’d on the next page

• Yukon Gold potatoes, 6 to 8• Garlic, 1 head, broken into cloves, unpeeled• Rosemary sprigs, 4 to 6• Olive oil• Sea salt• Freshly ground pepper

Peel potatoes, then cut into large chunks. Par-boil for 5 min, then drain. Spread on a largebaking sheet and sprinkle with pinches of salt. Add garlic and rosemary sprigs. Generouslydrizzle with olive oil and toss to coat. Roast in preheated 450F oven until golden, about 30min., stirring halfway through. Dish up with garlic and coarsely break up rosemary. Finishwith more salt and grindings of pepper.

DARK GINGERBREADã|à{ PRESERVED PEARSThis is a spicy cake – not mouth-burning hot spices, but deep dark and aromatic, like thespice cupboard. Ice cream is a must. And if you don’t feel like bottling your own pear pre-serves (see recipe below) scout your local farmer’s market for a jar or two.

• Unbleached white flour, 3 cups +2 tbsp• Ground ginger, 1 tbsp• Ground cinnamon, 1 tbsp• Ground allspice, 1 tsp• Salt, 1 tsp• Baking soda, 2 tsp• Organic unsalted butter, 1 cup, at room temperature• Dark brown sugar, 1 cup, packed• Large eggs, 2• Fancy molasses, 675 g container, about 2 cups• Fresh ginger, grated, 1 heaping tbsp• Boiling water, 1 cup

Line a 9X13-inch baking dish with parchment or coat with butter. Stir flour with ground gin-ger, cinnamon, allspice, salt and baking soda. Using an electric mixer, cream butter withsugar. Beat in eggs, one at a time, then molasses, then ginger.Pour in flour mixture. Using a wooden spoon, stir just until moistened. Then pour in boil-

ing water and stir just until mixed. Scrape into dish and bake in centre of 350F oven untila cake tester inserted in centre comes out clean, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Cool completelybefore serving.

Spiced Preserved PearsLast chance for end of season’s fruit preserves! Bartlett or Packham’s are good choices butI just buy whatever is at the market. Double the recipe if you want a good stash.Makes 2 1L jars and1 500mL jar (weird, I know)

• Water, 41/2 cups• Granulated sugar, 3 cups• Red wine vinegar, 1/2 cup• Peppercorns, 6• Star Anise, 4• Pears, 9 to 12

In a large saucepan, gently boil water with sugar, vinegar, peppercorns and star anise. Stiroften to dissolve sugar. Boil for 5 minutes, then remove from heat.Sterilize jars and lids. Peel pears, then cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard

cores. Slice halves in half again. To prevent pears from discolouring, work quickly and placein a mixture of water and lemon juice.When all pears are prepared bring syrup back to a boil. Add half the pears and boil for 1

minute. Remove from heat and using a slotted spoon, carefully spoon pears into hot jars.Place syrup back on stove and bring to a boil, then add remaining pears and boil for 1minute. Pack pears into jars, then pour boiling syrup overtop. Leave about 1/8-inch head-room at the top of each jar. Cover with sterilized lids and lightly tighten screw bands.Process in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes, then turn off heat. Let stand in water for

5 minutes, then carefully remove. Best to let sit at least a week to let flavours meld beforeeating. Store in a cool dark place up to 1 year.

1034 Fort Street | 250·380·7654 | www.epicureanpantry.ca

organic · fair trade · ethnic · artisan · local

fine foods &a world of spices

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Pumpkin Sauce

In a large wok or sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Addonion, garlic, ginger and chile and sauté 4-5 mins. Add pumpkinand stock to the pan and cook 15 to 20 minutes until the pumpkinis tender. Add coconut milk, coriander, cumin, basil, oregano,thyme, pepper, nutmeg, allspice and salt. Simmer 5minutes. Placethemixture in a food processor and process until smooth. Set aside.

Pasta and Veggies5 oz linguine, using equal amounts of spinach, tomato andsemolina linguine noodles. Cook pasta, drain and set aside.

• 1/8 cup olive oil• 1 green bell pepper, cut in thin strips• 1 red bell pepper, cut in thin strips• 1 yellow bell pepper, cut in thin strips• 1/2 zucchini, cut in thin strips• 1/4 cup fresh corn kernels• 1 broccoli floret, broken into small pieces

In the same pan used for the pumpkin sauce, heat the oil overmedium heat and sauté the peppers and zucchini while stirringfor 5 minutes. Add corn and broccoli and sauté until they are ten-der. Pour the pumpkin sauce into the pan and stir to combine.Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for a minute or two. Addthe cooked pasta and toss to combine.

GET FRESH — by Sylvia Weinstock

THIS MONTH’S SHOPPING BASKET RECIPE

RASTA PASTA ã|à{ GOLDEN PUMPKIN SAUCE

• 1/8 cup olive oil• 1 small onion, diced• 2 cloves garlic, minced• 2 Tbsp. fresh gingerroot,minced• 1 green chile pepper, seededand minced• 2 cups pumpkin flesh, diced• 1 cup vegetable stock• 1 cup coconut milk

• 1 tsp. coriander seeds, ground• 1 tsp. ground cumin• a handful of fresh basil leaves• a handful of fresh oregano• a handful of fresh thyme• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground blackpepper• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg• 1/2 tsp. allspice• 1/2 tsp. salt

The green, red and gold Rastafarian colours of this delectable Ital dish are the perfect compliment to the autumnal colours found innature and in the fall harvest of multicoloured vegetables and herbs. To enhance the visuals, this recipe uses spinach (green), tomato(red) and semolina (gold) linguine. Although authentic Ital (a word derived from “vital”) cuisine is primarily vegan, prawns or otherseafood would be delish in this dish.(Serves 2 to 4)

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Pumpkin. These gorgeous orange orbs, withtheir abundance of delicious flesh and scrump-tious nutritious seeds, are the epitome of fallharvest bounty. Use pumpkin or squash flesh tomake Thai Peanut Pumpkin (or Squash) Soup.Saute chopped onions, celery, carrots, peanutsand grated gingerroot. Add cubed squash orpumpkin, a chopped, peeled and cored apple,and salt and pepper, and simmer until the veg-etables are tender. Add vegetable broth andbring to a boil. Simmer on low for 20 minutes.Add a can of coconut milk. Puree in a foodprocessor until smooth and reheat.

Basil. There are so many types of basil and allare content to grow on a windowsill in yourkitchen. This summer I grew African Blue Basil,which has purplish leaves and a camphor scent,and licorice-scented Thai Basil. Both plants willcontinue producing their fragrant, flavourfulleaves through the fall.

Oregano. This perennial, which grows abun-dantly in my garden, is a versatile herb that en-hances everything from soup to scrambled eggs.

Thyme. A touch of minty-lemony thyme makesgumbo, borscht, pate, polenta, and lamb tasteterrific.

Bell Peppers. Radiantly colourful, crisp andjuicy, orange, green, purple, red and yellow B.C.peppers are a sweet treat either raw or cooked.Roasting peppers, by charring their skins underthe broiler or over a gas flame, kicks their sweet-ness into overdrive. The tangy smokiness ofroasted peppers is a spectacular addition to piz-zas, salads, chevre and coulis.

Fresh corn on the cob. Juicy, crunchy, andslathered with butter, fresh corn is an annualtreat well worth the wait. Here is an easy methodfor removing kernels from corncobs. First, tear offthe husks and pull off the silky hairs. Wash thecobs. Place a cob vertically on a cutting boardwith its flat end on the board and its pointy endup. Cut into one side of the cob with a sharpknife, using a sawing motion to remove the ker-nels. Be sure not to cut into the cob’s hard core.Repeat with the other three sides of each cob.


By Nathan Fong Photograhy Tracey Kusiewicz

Cold Comfort Classics

BAKED CREAMY MAC AND CHEESE

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• 2 Tbsp butte

• One 12-oz ti

• 1 cup half-a

• 1⁄2 cup whip

• 1 cup chicke

• 4 Tbsp butte

• 2 cloves gar

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• 1/3 cup all-p

• 2 Tbsp Dijon

• 3⁄4 cup grat

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• 1 lemon, ha

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• 1 Tbsp olive

• Sea salt and

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• 2 cups chick

Preheat oven


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cs Sometimes, life can be a bit chilly. As the leaves start to turn and fall, the cooler weather and cooler economic climate can create abasic need for comfort food andmore attention paid to the grocery bill. Here are four classic retro dishes redefined with amodern twist.

BAKED CREAMYMAC AND CHEESEEveryone has a favourite pasta from their childhood. Tome,it was a toss-up between homemade meatballs andspaghetti smothered in a slow-cooked tomato sauce or acreamy bakedmac and cheese. Here, the recipe has been re-vamped to include a rich cream sauce enhanced by Dijonmustard and two favourite sharp cheeses toppedwith a crispcrumb and smoky bacon crust. Sinfully rich but certainlycomforting. Serves 8.• 1 pound macaroni or other small bite-sized pasta

• 32 saltine crackers, crushed

• 2 to 3 thick slices bacon, cut into 1⁄4-inch pieces (optional)

• 2 Tbsp butter, melted

• One 12-oz tin evaporated milk

• 1 cup half-and-half cream

• 1⁄2 cup whipping cream

• 1 cup chicken broth

• 4 Tbsp butter

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1⁄2 medium onion, finely chopped

• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

• 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard

• 3⁄4 cup grated parmesan cheese

• 16 oz extra sharp Cheddar cheese, grated (preferably whiteCheddar)

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 Tbsp saltand add pasta; cook until al dente. Drain and immediatelypour onto a large rimmed baking sheet to cool.Mix crackers, bacon and melted butter together and set

aside. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat ovento 350°F.Combinemilk, cream, whipping cream and chicken broth in

a large pot and heat to simmer. Melt the 4 Tbsp of butter ina large casserole or heavy pot over medium heat. Add garlicand onion and sauté until soft.Whisk in flour and slowly addhot milk mixture all at once and continue to whisk until thickand bubbly, 3 to 4minutes.Whisk in mustard and parmesan.Remove from heat and whisk in cheddar cheese until melted.Stir in pasta and season to taste with salt and pepper.Transfer to a 13-by-9-inch baking pan. Top with cracker and

bacon mixture and bake until bubbly, about 20 minutes.

TUSCAN SUN-DRIEDTOMATO MEATLOAFI’ve always been a fan of a really good meatloaf, hot fromthe oven accompanied by buttery mashed potatoes andsmothered with creamy mushroom gravy. Here, the classichas been stepped up with slight spice from fresh chorizosausage and sun-dried tomatoes. Mashed potatoes will stilllook good on the plate! Serves 4 to 6.• One 1 1/2-inch-thick slice of country-style bread, crust re-moved, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice

• 3 to 4 Tbsp milk

• 3⁄4 lb lean ground beef

• 1⁄2 pound lean ground veal

• 3⁄4 lb fresh medium chorizo sausage, casings removed

• 3 large eggs

• 1⁄2 cup chopped sun-dried tomato (soaked in oil), drained andcoarsely chopped

• 1 oz grated Parmesan cheese

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced

• 3 to 4 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped

• 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme

• 1 Tbsp finely chopped basil

• 2 Tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

• 2 TbspWorchestershire sauce

• 1 1⁄2 tsp salt

• 1⁄2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 325°F.In a large mixing bowl, moisten the bread cubes with the

milk. Add the beef, veal and sausage and mix well. Add therest of the ingredients and mix well to incorporated.Line a large loaf pan with foil, leaving a couple of inches of

extra foil over the top of the pan. Form the meat mixture intoa loaf and press into the loaf pan, letting the extra foil pressgently against the top exposed surface. Place into preheatedoven and bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until an instant-readthermometer inserted in the centre registers 155°F. Bringback covered foil the last 15 minutes to brown top.Let the meat loaf rest in the pan 10 minutes before slicing.

BEEF STEW ã|à{ BLACKOLIVES & ORANGESSlow-braising brings out flavour and tenderizesinexpensive cuts of meat.With this renewed classic, the ad-dition of oranges, olives and spices creates an aromatic Mo-roccan-style stew. Serve with hot steamed saffron basmatirice or couscous. Serves 4.• 6 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

• 4 oz salt pork, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice

• Sea salt

• 3 lbs boneless beef chuck, cut into 2-inch cubes

• 2 medium onions, quartered and peeled, root end intact

• 10 lightly crushed garlic cloves

• 2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1⁄2-inch dice

• 1 1⁄2 cups red wine

• 1⁄2 cup beef stock

• 2 large sprigs fresh thyme

• 1/8 tsp nutmeg

• 3 whole cloves

• One 2-inch stick cinnamon

• Three 1-by-2-inch strips orange zest (reserving rest of orange)

• One 15-oz tin peeled whole tomatoes, drained (reserving liq-uid), coarsely chopped

• 1 cup small black olives, such as Niçoise or Nyons

• Thyme and flat leaf parsley

In a large heavy casserole or Dutch oven with a tight fittinglid, heat 3 Tbsp of the olive oil over medium heat and cookthe diced salt pork until golden. Using a slotted spoon, re-move the salt pork and set aside.Salt the beef generously. Raise the heat to medium-high

and, cooking in two batches, brown the beef all over, 10 to12 minutes per batch, reducing heat if necessary. Transfermeat to a plate and set aside.Remove all but 4 Tbsp of the fat from the pot and return

heat to medium high. If not enough fat, add olive oil. Cookthe onion quarters until deep brown on one side. Turn theonions, trying to keep together, and brown on another side.Add the crushed garlic cloves and carrots and sauté, stirringoccasionally, until the garlic starts to colour. Add the wineand simmer for 2 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan toloosen any brown bits. Add the stock, thyme, nutmeg, cin-namon, salt pork and 1⁄2 tsp salt. Stick a clove to each of theorange zest pieces and add them to the pot. Add the toma-toes and olives and stir to mix.Return themeat and any accumulated juices to the pot and

bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, maintainingat a simmer, until the meat is nearly tender, about 3 hours.Taste the stock: if you cannot detect the flavour of the or-

ange, stir in the juice of the reserved orange, a bit at a time,until the flavour of the juice is noticeable. Cover and cook onsimmer until the meat is tender, 30 to 45 minutes more. Re-move from heat at stir in olives. Garnish with chopped thymeand parsley.

SIMPLE ROAST CHICKENThis recipe is adapted from Barbara Kafka’s cookbookRoasting. One of my favourite meals is a perfect roast chicken;crisp skinned outside and succulent and moist inside.

• One 4 to 5 pound fresh free-range chicken

• 5 cloves garlic, peeled

• 1 lemon, halved

• 2 to 3 sprigs rosemary and/or fresh thyme

• 1 Tbsp olive oil

• Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

• 1⁄2 cup white wine

• 2 cups chicken stock

Preheat oven to 500°F. (Make sure your oven is clean.)

Rinse chicken and pat dry. Place garlic, lemon halves and herbsin the cavity and truss with string to close tight with the drum-sticks. Brush olive oil over whole chicken and season with saltand freshly ground pepper and place into a deep-sided roastingpan. Place in the preheated oven. After 20 minutes, take awooden spoon and shake the chicken loose to keep from stick-ing to the bottom of the roasting pan.

Roast for another 30 to 40 minutes or until the skin is golden-brown and juices are clear when a knife is inserted into thechicken. Remove chicken from pan and set aside on warm serv-ing platter.

Add roasting pan to stove top and remove as much grease aspossible from pan drippings. Heat to medium-high and deglazewith white wine, scraping all the brown bits from the bottom ofthe pan. Add the chicken stock and stir. Reduce by half and servejus with chicken.

MORE COMFORT FOOD REDEFINED: Check out Nathan’srecipe for Spiced Pot Roast. Look for it in the Recipe Boxon www.EatMagazine.ca

Chain Re

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John Bishopwas Vancouver’s trail-blazer of the farm-to-table movement when he hooked upwith friend and farmer, the late Gary King of Surrey’s Hazelmere Organics, almost 20 yearsago. Growers since then have followed King’s lead in farming sustainably, enabling more andmore restaurants to draw from an ever-increasing pool of fresh, local ingredients. Tiny bistrosmay choose to source almost all local. Larger, commercial restaurants can include on theirmenus naturally raisedmeat, fresh fish, house-made bread (from local grains), organic greensand veggies, and artisanal cheeses. At every level, we all benefit from food that is healthier,more sustainable, more creative, more diverse, and, of course, delicious.

Small BistroPair Bistro | 3763W. 10th Ave. | 604-224-7211 | www.pairbistro.caTodd Hodgins grew up with the orchard and the farm as his playground. He’s been a“sourcerer” of local ever since. In 2005, when he and wife Janis launched Pair Bistro, his pas-sion carried through to a full-on B.C. menu, right down to the water, wine and the walls dis-playing local art.“The driving force behind themenu was the all-B.C. wine list,” says Todd. Add to that “Van-

couver Island thinking,” which in the last years has spawned so much organic produce andowes a great deal, he believes, to Bill Jones and Deerholme Farm.

Todd admits it’s not always easy to go all B.C. all the time. “You seldom get a day off,” hesays as we chat over spot prawns, served simply with butter and lemon and just-from-the-oven bannock. Todd heads to Granville Island for buying within the seasons, seafood in par-ticular; then it’s over to UBC Farm for produce and veggies. As well, the couple are in solidcahoots with game farmers (he doesn’t reveal who) to guarantee a steady supply. (“If welifted the Wapiti elk medallions and Peace Region bison burger from the menu we’d have toclose.”) “We’re so lucky to have a keen staff who support our commitment to staying local.Currently, Alex Murray “is head of the plates,” while JeffreyWyndham, who knows a thing ortwo about B.C. wines, manages front of house. All this is made possible because the placeis small and the couple’s family were such an enormous help. Sadly Janis’s father, who lenta strong hand in building the bistro, died just prior to its opening. Todd’s father, canner andpickler of the restaurant’s preserves, passed away recently after a lengthy illness. Todd andJanis miss them and their contributions terribly. Still, they avoid taking shortcuts, continuing,for instance, to smoke salmon on site. Todd professes the demand for a larger or second Pairlocation. “We’ve outgrown ourselves,” he says, “But the upside of more space means morebuying power and an opportunity to source even more local product, which remains, ab-solutely, our mandate.” Pair is definitely the little bistro that could.

Fine Dining

Diva at the Met | 645 Howe St., Vancouver | 604-602-7788Last fall tough economic times forced Jeff Van Geest, one of Vancouver’s more respectedchefs, to lock the doors onMain Street’s tiny Aurora Bistro, where, like Todd Hodgins, he hadcome to know local growers and treated guests to B.C.’s finest bounty.NowVan Geest finds fewer occasions to mingle with farmers as executive sous chef of Diva

at the Met. In such instances Jeff selects from Biovia's Mobile Market. (Biovia is a top-notchVancouver-based wholesaler that deals only with BC organic growers.www.biovia ). Make nobones about it, though, Van Geest continues to have a firm “in” with local farmers and, bygum, he sure knows what to do with their produce.Van Geest brought to Diva a staunch commitment to staying “fresh and sustainable” (and

a stash of his own smoked Berkshire pork). A good-sized kitchen, state-of-the art equipmentand buying power afford Van Geest the opportunity to marry his mastery with local ingredi-ents to sophisticated dining.What could bemore elegant and fresh than a spring mushroomand chèvre agnolotti, wild morels, salsify, tender asparagus, pea shoots and leeks withfoamed ginger milk?Onmy visit, I tuck intoMission's Hannabrook Farmmicro-greens encased in a red-fife wheat

tulle and complemented by a splash of vinaigrette made with green walnut vinegar from Lan-gley’s Vista D’Oro Farms and a shaving of Farmhouse Cheddar from Agassiz. I follow that witha heavenly Queen Charlotte halibut filet poached sous-vide. Van Geest is chuffed about every-thing on the plate: the tangy excellence of Farmhouse Cheese; the uniqueness of Vista D’Orogreen walnuts; the superior quality and lengthy season for B.C. halibut. The guy’s passion ispalpable. Van Geest pays enormous tribute to Gary King in influencing the “going local” phi-losophy. The work of this talented chef is also a testament to the fact that fine dining does-n’t necessarily mean fancy imports.


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LOCALONALLLEVELSVANCOUVER

Local, seasonal, artisanal and organic has become today’s gastronomicmantra. Yet like a mantra, it’s more than just words. It has come to representa food philosophy that revolves around taking more responsibility for whatwe eat. A whole lot of people—home cooks, professional chefs, culinaryjournalists and mainstream media, the green gang and just plain folk—wantto know where their food is coming from, how it gets from sea to stove,from gate to plate. Julie Pegg spoke with one proprietor and two chefs fromthree very different establishments and witnessed how far-reaching thefarm-to-table philosophy has become.

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Joeys | five locations in B.C. | www.joeysmedgrill.comA few years ago Joey Tomato’s, a ho-hum pizza and pasta place, rebranded and dropped the“tomato.” Joeys resurfaced as a slick, chic, casual fine dining chain with a sleek wine pro-gram tomatch. Chef Chris Mills (ex-Diva at theMet) came onboard as Joeys’ executive chefand heads up the test kitchen for all locations. He tries to put fresh, seasonable and sus-tainable produce on the menu whenever possible. “For an outfit like Joeys,” says Mills,“that demands a strong relationship between restaurant and supplier, and we have anedge on commercial dining when it comes to sourcing fresh and local.”That edge comes in the form of Brad Bellmann, a Joeys chef from 1999 to 2005. From

April to late-November, Bellmann and wife Jen operate the intensely planted 33-acre Bell-man’s Specialty Produce (“I’m going to buy a farm and grow stuff for Joeys,” said Brad onleaving Joeys in Calgary). Now his Armstrong, B.C. farm supplies 15 locations, from Van-couver to Winnipeg. Mills and Brad put their heads together every November, review thepast year to see what worked and what didn’t. The two then plot the next year’s produceneeds for all Joeys locations. Since Brad is a chef by trade, he can forecast pretty closelyand plant accordingly. In a brief phone conversation, Jen tells me that they “start with springasparagus and switch up as the seasons progress to greens, onions, squash and so forth.Our heirloom tomatoes are bar-none,” she’s quick to add. (My Brandywine and bocconcinisalad with fresh basil proves the accuracy of her words.) Mills would love to source “local”year round but confesses it’s a challenge with a large chain. “But I’m determined to stay assustainable and seasonal as possible.”When not prepping menus or manning the restaurant stove, Hodgins, Van Geest and

Mills grow their own edibles and feed the family with “good stuff.” First on the itinerarywhen travelling is to seek out markets, local products and like-minded eateries. On sitethey run their kitchens without a whole lot of fanfare or fanaticism. Practicing farm-to-tableis simply a way of life for these local food-loving guys, both in and away from theirrestaurants.

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What’shappening inVANCOUVER?Vancouver sure knows how to throw open the door on new restaurants. A perfect July evening ush-ered in around six hundred industry folk into Coast's swish new location. (1054 Alberni Street). Onthe patio server guys shucked perfect Kushis and server gals poured fizz readying the crowd for thesoiree inside, where wine and cocktails flowed. And oh! The food-- Cappuccino-sized Manhattan andNew England chowders at the circular bar, and to whet the whistle a spicy Caesar garnished witha crunchy jumbo prawn in the “O Lounge”; One floor up jumbo prawns reappeared groaning underthe weight of a display of fresh seafood in the “Captain's Quarters”. Wasn't that a party! Kudos tothe servers, who kept up a tough game throughout.

The Refinery (1155 Granville),and the Edge Social Grill andLounge (1100 Granville) arethe newest additions to theGranville facelift. The Refineryowes its country store chic to re-claimed lumber, enviro-friendlywood-like materials, and Farrowand Ball earth tones. Plates,meant to share, extend beyondcharcuterie-and-cheese themewith smoked salmon, ahi-tuna,Mediterranean dips, antipasti,and market fresh salads. Unableto attend the media opening Ipopped in later midst wall-to-wall revelry--wonderfully han-dled by General ManagerLauren Mote who juggled greet-ing, schmoozing and polishingglasses, all the time ensuring“things ran smoothly”. Amidstthe din the kitchen kept mini-menu circulating. (I swear I de-voured at least three of theterrific beef and cheddar withhouse made piccalilli). Mote,who’s a Cracker Jack bar-tender, whipped up a meanBourbon Sour. A spontaneous(and anonymous) follow-up visitwith buds passed the service/quality test with flying colours. Be advised. Laughter and chatter rico-chet about the walls particularly there’s a cheery group at the communal table. Best to hunker downin the more subdued space above the street if you prefer sotto voce.Nary had the Refinery put away it’s last goblet, than The Edge Social Grille and Lounge (1100

Granville) treated the industry to the100-seat patio a sleek and spacious interior and a terrific nosh.(Chicken lollipops got big sticky thumbs up). Opened from 7-am to 2-am the pan-global menu offerssomething for everyone from Irish bacon and eggs with caramelized onions, (Hmmm-wonder if theyturn the breakfast clock ahead for post mid-night ramblers) to wok-chili squid to gussied up comfortfood like truffled mac and cheese. FYI for the imbiber, the booze menu is longer than the bar.****

Diamond in the Rough…And more eateries contribute to therevitalization of Gastown. I’ve yet tosip or savour the combined talents ofMark Brand, Josh Pape (Chambaralumni) or Sophie Taverna (ex-Cas-cade). Chances are excellent, I’d say,that this trio will do just fine, thank youvery much with “Diamond” (6 PowellStreet-overlooking Gassy JackSquare). Influenced by their Orientaltravels, the menu is, well, Asian-themed. Word on the street is that gy-ozas and chicken-and-duck sandwichare a must try. Brand, who like Mote,whizzes up superb cocktails (I know,I’ve tried a few) will mix to match thefood I’m sure. I plan to pop in soonerrather than later. Look for my com-ments on twitter or [email protected] the theater, it’s tough to pre-

dict a restaurant’s run on openingnight. With as many restaurants fold-ing as flourishing, we hope these“dos” weren’t for naught. At the out-set all looks promising. EAT certainlyhopes “they break a leg”.— by Julie Pegg

Lauren Mote w/ her housemade bitters, syrups &salts. L’epice Verte & Shandy cocktails.

top: Mark Brand holding a“treacle”, Josh Pape with a“bicicletta” and Sophie Tavernerwith a “Pegu Club”.bottom left : Pickled beetsbottom right: Betel leaves &salmon, tobiko, preservedlemon, ginger & kaffir lime

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What’shappening in COMOXVALLEY?A sizeable crew got a preview of how pleasurable it is to enjoy the harvest and “eat local” on July26th. Chef Ronald St. Pierre and the crew at Locals restaurant [364-8th Street, Courtenay250.338.6493, www.localscomoxvalley.com] hosted a Table Champêtre (check the Locals blogfor a description of what this is and why Chef Ronald wants to make this a regular thing in this food-rich part of the Island) at Tannadice Farms [3465 Burns Road, www.tannadicefarms.com]. Wefeasted on Cortez Island oysters, Little Qualicum scallops, Black Creek veggies, Courtenaypork, chicken, and beef, (to name a few of the many local producers featured – it was a greatshowcase for local food product) and toasted it all with libations from Surgenor Brewing Com-pany [861 Shamrock Place, Comox 250.339.9947 www.surgenorbrewing.ca], BluemoonWin-ery [Greaves Crescent, Courtenay 250-338-9765 www.bluemoonwinery.ca], and Averill CreekVineyard [6552 North Rd, Duncan 250-709-9986 www.averillcreek.ca]. A friend was movedto tears: “It’s all so beautiful and delicious!” I’m looking forward to what this team does in 2010– Bring it on Chef Ronald!In the meantime, fall is a great time to be eating pretty much anywhere in the Comox Valley -

Campbell River region. InWillow Point, former manager at The Tasting Room [#4 - 2253 SouthIsland Highway] Michelle Mustvedt just bought the business with her husband Jonathan Adamo.They’ve renamed it Jonny’s Bar & Lounge and are creating a “lounge type feel,” inviting folks tocome in for drinks, sushi rolls, and appetizers. It’s a beautiful space – I’ll be stopping in on my wayto the Angler's Dining Room at Dolphins Resort [4125 Discovery Drive 1-800-891-0287 /www.dolphinsresort.com] where new Executive Chef Steve Lopez is hosting fall “specialty diningpackages.” In Comox, Carol Spencer ofWild Flour Organic Artisan Bakery [221A ChurchStreet in Comox [250-890-0017, www.wildflourorganicbakery.com] is helping the new owners ofthe bakery get into the swing of things. She’s also organized some fall cooking classes a mysteryguests....hmmm... Down the road, the kitchen has been delivering consistently great food, and bar-tender Freddy confirmed that Avenue Bistro [2064 Comox Ave, 250-890-9200 www.avenue-bistro.ca] really is THE PLACE I want to practice my new-found b-tending skills. (I also think it’s coolthat I get – more or less – regular postings about “fresh sheet” times from @avenuebistro on twit-ter).In Courtenay, Kathy Jerritt is seeing great success with her first “full moon dinners” at Tria Culi-

nary Studio [located at Natures Way Farm 4905 Darcy Road 250-338-9765 @triaculinary /www.triaculinarystudio.ca]. Full disclosure: I do some work for these folks, and my son has pickeda few blueberries for the farm – and I think that the trio of Kathy, Marla Limousin (Natures WayFarm), and George Ehrler (BluemoonWinery) are doing amazing things. Heather at Tita’s Mex-ican Restaurant [536-6th Street, Courtenay 250.334.8033] tells me the menu’s been revampedrecently, retaining lots of old faves, and introducing new items like local Halibut Tacos and CheeseStuffed Plantain Slices in Mole sauce, for example. Most items are now served as “small plates”with a broad selection of side dishes to choose from for big appetites. As always at this time of year,copious amounts of fruit from the patio garden inspire ever-changing margaritas. I miss OrbitzPizza (it got burned out – literally – and owner/chef Marty Campbell is doing interesting thingsin Nanaimo with good food and ...bowling?), so I’m very happy to hear that Shelley Bouchardand husband, “Mad Chef” Kevin Munroe (formerly of the Kingfisher, Atlas Cafe, and most re-cently the Pier Pub & Bistro), are opening theMad Chef Cafe at the old Orbitz location [492Fitzgerald Avenue]. Their slogan: "...insane food...with attitude..." Chef Steve Dodd is counting ona long September summer as he invites all and sundry to check out the first-come-first-servepatio/blender combos at Bisque [14th and Cliffe Ave. 250-334-8564). Nightly specials highlightthe Valley’s freshest products, tastes, and spirits. The pitch to "gourmands" by David Innes & Lu-cille Doucet at La Pause Bed & Breakfast [540 Salsbury Road, Courtenay 1-866-703-4725www.lapausebb.com] piques my interest in being a tourist in my own town.With the help of the new co-owners Chef Drew Noble is creating a bit of a stir at the “new”Old

House Restaurant [1760 Riverside Lane, Courtenay 250.338.5406] . Menu homages to theglory years, special wine events, and cooking classes – I’m looking forward to a real taste test.Atlas Café [250-6th Street, Courtenay 250.338.9838] has just revamped its website, with a“people page” featuring some of the many wonderful characters (staff and customers) who makethis place the standard by which I judge other eateries.Over the summer, when it got really, really hot, one local foodie suggested hot (spicy) food as

answer. Allyson Hamilton told me (@hammygirl) that her local faves are: Drunken Prawn at Kina-ree Thai Cuisine [526A Cumberland Road, 250-898-8639] (she always ask for "really hot"); the“wonderful spicy” Thai soups at Pho Maple Noodle [11-468 29th Street, Courtenay 250-338-8868; and although she hasn’t “met a dish [she] didn't like,” the Chicken Vindaloo is her currentchoice at The Great Escape [2744 Dunsmuir Street, www.greatescape-cumberland.com, 250-336-8831]. Thanks Allyson. You can keep me up to date on your new food finds with a tweet to@hanspetermeyer. —by Hans Peter Meyer


If you are a foodie, is there a more perfect place on this planet to live than Vancouver Island? Ithink not. And if you are a lover of fresh fish, you can swoon and croon about the abundance andvariety of sea critters swimming about in these here parts. Warrant Sea Drift Fish Company[two locations: #1-1559 Estevan Road, Greater Terminal Park Mall, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-754-4913or # 401-5800 Turner Road, Northridge Village Mall, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-758-7151). Barb andDave Ernst started Sea Drift over 30 years ago and have netted a sea trawler full of loyal fishycustomers. If it has a fin, claw or bivalve they have it, and most of it is sourced from local fisher-persons. They also have a secret weapon in Carole Selinger who is the Goddess of Chowder. Sixdays a week, Carole and her trusty 40-liter cauldron get together to produce sumptuous soups suchas Garlic Lovers, Curried Shrimp and Seafood Chowder. Everything in-store is take-away (no eat-in facilities) including an impressive collection of high-end specialty food items such as Dean &Dulca spices, sauces, mustards and other slather-able things to go along with your sea treasures.St. Jean’s Cannery is not news, but for those of you who only know their tasty canned prod-

ucts such as tuna, salmon & oysters, it is a whole new world at the processing plant [242 South-side Drive, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-754-2185] and it is worth a visit. Many savvy fisher-folk get St.Jean’s to pack and process their catch, turning what they have hauled into the boat into tinned-tri-umph. But St. Jean’s also sell smoked fish which has been cured and slow-smoked over natural hard-wood and then vac-sealed for easy shipping or storage. Their Cajun hot-smoked or peppercornhot-smoked salmon and tuna are big on blowing the rafters off your taste buds, and damned fineon fresh baguette, with thinly-sliced red onion, a slosh of lemon and an ice cold beer. Ya baby!Vancouver Island University is getting stoked about their new, on campus, wood-fired brick

baking oven. Built to augment the skills and techniques of students in VIU’s Culinary Art’s bakingprogram, the plan is to bake bread in the morning and thin crust pizza in the afternoon. MartinBarnett, program chairman, says the oven can crank-it to 530C using briquettes from a localsawmill and off-cuts from VIU’s carpentry program, thus creating a carbon-neutral method of bak-ing. To date, you have to get your fix in the cafeteria at the university (closed in the summer andduring holidays), but if the program is a success, there are expansion plans. Hello carb-lovers, thisloaf could be for you! If they can also produce a good Margarita pizza reminiscent of Naples,book me a table now.Speaking of incredible bread, two hunks on Gabriola Island are conjuring up some island

voodoo with their dough. Paul & Dimitri of Slow Rise Organic Bakery have hand-built a wood-fired oven that looks like an escape pod from the USS Enterprise with engineering tips from Hob-bits. Their breads, scones and cookies are only available on Gabriola at The Village Food Market,Silva Bay General Store and Artworks except, if you are lucky, and get there on time, the Wednes-day Nanaimo Farmers’ Market on Bowen Road (open until mid-October).The name of this new pho joint in Nanaimo makes me laugh. Someone clever noodled this one

up. Pho Boi [#108-6596 Applecross Road, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-933-0071] is located in a newmulti-unit development calledGeorgia View Village, across the street fromUrban Beet (love theBeet!) It serves traditional Vietnamese fare and does a good job of it too. Just go in knowing thatthey like their MSG so epicurious emptor.In this same complex of new stores, Man Lee Oriental Foods has opened a second, much

larger all-Asian food store [104-6596 Applecross Road, Nanaimo, Tel: 250-390-3938]. Eachaisle is organized by country so you can wheel through Japan, Malaysia, China, Thailand et alto source hard-to-find items to rock your wok. —by Su Grimmer

What’shappening in NANAIMO?

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Elizabeth Levinson has done it again. Combing the sideroads and main streets ofVancouver Island and surrounding islands, she sifts like a miner for nuggets of localepicurean gold for her third edition of An Edible Journey: Exploring the islands’ finefood, farms and vineyards. Her true commitment to small scale, independent artisansand a knack for reviewing in a manner that invites the reader in, make for a valuableguide book. An active Slow Foodmember with a nose for the best ingredients, Levinsonleads us by the hand through Victoria’s Choux Choux Charcuterie, Cobble Hill’s BlueGrouse Vineyards, Denman Island’s chocolate factory, Tofino’s 600 Degrees bakery, andmany more memorable stops. Any local will want to keep this book on hand for roadtrips, visiting friends, or to stay on top of our growing regional culinary scene.As Sinclair Phillips (co-owner of Sooke Harbour House) writes in the introduction, “If

we frequent the restaurants, markets and suppliers recommended in this book, wesupport a community of local producers as well as the preservation of agricultural land.”We also support a fine writer who works hard to trumpet the efforts of our localfarmers and producers and reveal to us the treasures in our own backyard.Available at fine bookstores around BC.

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ouver Island? Ibundance andsh Company50-754-491351). Barb andl of loyal fishym local fisher-Chowder. Sixous soups suchaway (no eat-ch as Dean &sea treasures.canned prod-nt [242 South-her-folk get St.into tinned-tri-r natural hard-or peppercornd damned fineer. Ya baby!ood-fired bricky Art’s bakingrnoon. Martins from a localmethod of bak-e summer andarb-lovers, thisent of Naples,

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Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 6pm

$26

What’shappening in VICTORIA?Autumn sees the branching out of some established eateries in Victoria. Stroll the streets of OakBay and you’ll discover the new Discovery Coffee. Family owned and operated, their originalsite at 664 Discovery Street is a cozy, vibrant hub. As one of Victoria’s most beloved brew stopsfor serious bean aficionados, the second chapter on the other end of town is a welcome addi-tion. Little Piggy Bakeshop and Catering is also reaching into new neighbourhoods with its newlocation in Fernwood on Gladstone Avenue. The second shop holds a bakery, restaurant, andstorefront full of sweet and savoury pastries, breads, and meals to stay or go. Also new for thisLittle Piggy is the delicious Island Bison and their Ocean Wise certification. Cook Street Vil-lage’s food court has thus far relied upon the Ethiopian, Thai, and Sushi food stands, but has re-cently expanded to include a Bubble Tea shop, a smoothie stand, fish and chips, Jesse’s Grillfor burgers, and more.The folks at FoodRoots have been hard at work making it easier to find local and organic pro-

duce in Victoria. As well as adding in a new pocket market in the hub of downtown at Govern-ment and Fisgard (Sundays 11 to 4:30pm), they’ve introduced the Fruit Loop; by setting up anaccount on their Food Roots website at www.foodroots.ca, you see what’s being offered in bulkfruit on a pre-order basis for pick-up at the warehouse at Hillside between Rock Bay and Gov-ernment. Meanwhile theMoss St. Market (which pitches its last stand October 31st, so stock upon local vegetables while you can) has been participating in the Farmer’s Market NutritionCoupon Project in partnership with the Victoria Native Friendship Centre. The program in-creases access to fresh BC farm products for low-income pregnant women and low-income fam-ilies with children. The Victoria Native Friendship Centre takes it a step further by offering Cookingand Skill building programs that make use of BC ingredients. Truly a ‘teach a man to fish’ proj-ect.Another stellar program happening in Victoria is the “Christmas in July” food drive. When not

in the Christmas season, food bank donations can taper off and this year, with the economy at alow point, local food banks reported a greater need than usual. Initiated by the Victoria Real Es-tate Board, an off-season campaign has brought in roughly $2,000 in goods for families in need.The back-to-school season is upon us and it’s not just for kids. The University of Victoria’s Sus-

tainable Gastronomy courses are offered for those who love to learn about food. Camille’s ChefDavid Mincey will instruct a delicious course on chocolate appreciation and local food jour-nalist Don Genova lead students through Exploring Local Foods. Intro to Sustainable Gastron-omy and Food and Spirituality round out the program. To register, visit www.uvcs.uvic.ca. Also atUVic, a new initiative called Food University Network (FUN), is revamping the gastronomic sceneon campus. Projects include a weekly pocket market at the Student Union Building and partner-ing with local organic farms to supply local, seasonal, and organic snacks for students. FUN isalso working on offering cooking classes and workshops to educate students on healthy and sus-tainable food choices.For the younger crowd, there’s never been a better time to plant the seed of a schoolground

garden. Elementary school teachers can contact LifeCycles Project Society to participate intheir Growing Schools project. LifeCycles offers a successful model for schools to plant gardenson school grounds, educating kids about food security, urban agriculture, the environment, com-munity development, and health. Their model curriculum supports the Learning Outcomes of theMinistry Education and takes children through a year-long gardening cycle —plus they get to eatthe fruits of their labour. At this time of year, LifeCycles Fruit Tree Project is in full swing; this yearthey celebrate their tenth anniversary. With a few volunteers and a couple of ladders, apple,pear, quince, and other fruit trees that would otherwise go un-picked are harvested and sharedamong homeowners, volunteers, food banks, and community organizations. Visit lifecyclespro-ject.ca and click on Fruit Tree Project to register a tree or become a volunteer.Raise a glass to Brentwood Bay’s Church and State Winery for being honoured with the

Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Excellence in British Columbia Wines. This award “recognizesand honours excellence in wines made from 100% British Columbian grown grapes and pro-duced within the province.” —Katie Zdybel

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For more news visit www.eatmagazine.caNEWS•EVENTS•BULLETINS•RECIPES•WINES


What’shappening in TOFINO ?RIA?streets of Oak, their originaled brew stopswelcome addi-ds with its newestaurant, ando new for thisook Street Vil-ds, but has re-Jesse’s Grill

d organic pro-wn at Govern-setting up anoffered in bulkBay and Gov-st, so stock uprket Nutritione program in-w-income fam-ering Cookingn to fish’ proj-

ive. When noteconomy at actoria Real Es-milies in need.Victoria’s Sus-amille’s Chefcal food jour-able Gastron-vic.ca. Also atronomic sceneg and partner-dents. FUN isealthy and sus-

schoolgroundparticipate inplant gardensronment, com-utcomes of thehey get to eatwing; this yearadders, apple,ed and sharedt lifecyclespro-

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After another successful Tofino Food and Wine Festival kicking off the start to summer, I haveto say that this year was an exceptionally outstanding showcase of local culinary talents, Van-couver Island purveyors and British Columbia wines (microbreweries and ciderhouse). Some of thefood highlights from Grazing In the Gardens include fresh baked breads by Jules Lomenda of SixHundred Degrees Bakery (Tofino) paired with Hilary’s Cheese from Cowichan Bay (‘Miele’had guests talking non stop), Fetch’s (Black Rock Hotel) Grilled BBQ Pork Sandwich, SpottedBear’s Tuna Tartar, The Pointe’s Sloping Hills Fennel and Chilli Banger and Sobo’s Ceviche. Spe-cial guests from North Island include Edgar and Mary Ann Smith of Natural Pastures Cheese(Comox) and Kathy & Victor McLaggan of Outlandish Shellfish Guild (Cortes Island). New-comers this year included Rockey CreekWinery (Cowichan Valley), Road 13 Vineyard (Oliver)and Township 7 (Langley). Take a look at the EAT website as we’ve p[osted a few photos fromthe day.The week leading up to the festival involves dining out at all of my local favourites (as I am so

busy preparing for the big weekend!); SoBo, Wildside Grill, Schooner Restaurant, SpottedBear Bistro, The Pointe Restaurant and Shelter Restaurant. All of these places will be in fullswing with fresh summer menus, for the summer season in Tofino.Tuff Beans is open Thursday – Sunday for family friendly Pizza Night (locals appreciation night

is Thursdays). Menu includes flatbread pizzas, soups, salads and paninis. A great place for peo-ple watching from the patio, Tuff Beans makes great coffee (Kicking Horse) as well. Located onthe corner of Campbell Street and Fourth Street.Green Soul Organics, Tofino’s health food store, located in the heart of downtown Tofino is

newly owned and operated by Morgan Callison (formerly Hungry Bear Naturals). Callison is car-rying as much local products as possible, from the west coast as well as the rest of Vancouver Is-land. Suppliers includeMedicine Farm (greens, herbs),Nanoose Edibles (greens, herbs, organicproduce), Lori’s Farm (free range chicken products), Clayoqout Botanicals (herbal teas, herbaltinctures, herbal salves), Sea Wench Naturals (eco-friendly cleaning supplies, skin & beautyproducts). (Corner of Fourth Street and Campbell Street - across from Tuff Beans)Six Hundred Degrees Bakery, specializing in organic naturally leavened breads, uses fresh

milled and ground flour from La Boulange Bakery (692 Bennett Road Qualicum Beach 250 7520077), as well as sea salt from Antarctic Pure Sea Salt, provided by The Galthering Place, a smallfamily business, from Cortes Island, importing high end teas and sea salt. Six Hundred Degreesbread and other delicious baked goods can be found at Tofino’s Public Market (Saturdays in theVillage Green, 10am – 2pm), Green Soul Organics and Beaches Grocery.Over in Ucluelet,Norwoods Restaurant (1714 Peninsula 250 726 7001) is getting great re-

views, great BC wine list and many return guests. Ukee Dogs is also worth checking out for somehomemade meat pies and other great pastries, and of course a wide selection of gourmet dogs.(1576 Imperial Lane 250 726 2103) — by Kira Rogers

ne.caWINES


Hester Creek Estate Winery and VillaWine Shop open daily at 10:00 amRoad #8, just South of Oliver, BCVilla Suites open from February to October. Phone: 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com

WE DO WHAT WE LOVE. YOU'LL LOVE WHAT WE DO.TRULY REMARKABLE

Reserve online at quailsgate.com 250-769-4451

OLD VINES RESTAURANT & PATIO11:30 am to 9 pm daily

Sunday Brunch 10:30 am to 2:30 pm

WINESHOP9:30 am to 7 pm - June to October

A Sense of Place.

2nd Annual Quails’ Gate Harvest FairSaturday, September 12th | 11 am to 3 pm

Okanagan Fall Wine FestivalWinemakers Dinner | Friday, October 2nd

Lumière in the Okanagan | Thursday, October 8th

liquidassets

WHITESDomaine du2003 FranceI had forgottetle French Sade Gascognewith intenseances, nicelyand a long clTorley ChapeHungary $13Since the falEurope has sof Eastern Egood wine. Woxymoron pebeen sated iboglar, locateunpretentiourefreshing wflavours. A lotry.Little StrawVBritish ColumLittle Strawcated on thejust outsidewith subtle cnose with mofruit on the pDomaine deFrance $13.0This is an easthe price. A band the evermay well askfind such obasked, this oGascogne infresh with surus flavours,charm.

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Hynes

Smitty’s Oyster House | 645 School RoadWharf | Lower Gibsons, B.C.| 604-886-HOOK (4665) | www.smittysoysterhouse.com– by Julie Pegg

In 2005, John Smith, owner of Gibsons Marina, tossed Stafford Lumley, owner of Rodney’sOyster Bar in Yaletown, the keys to the marina’s unused chandlery building with the words“do what you want with it.” Lumley did. The young father of three, who hadmarried a localgirl, sold Rodney’s, moved nearer the grandparents and turned the chandlery into Smitty’sOyster House. In an area dense with unremarkable eateries, it seemed oysters were rightfor the picking.

CHARACTER: A five-minute drive from the Langdale ferry leads you to a set of rough-hewnstairs, the smell of the sea and Smitty’s cedar-plank deck with its 27-foot-long polishedspruce “picnic” table. Inside, whitewashed brick, natural wood and cushion-coveredbenches feel oh-so dockside. A bar/counter rivals the outside table in length. A New Or-leans-style wrought iron railing spans the 10-seat mezzanine.

CREW: Lumley, with partner and buddy Shawn Divers, sails a smooth ship. They bob behindthe counter to pour drinks, steam clams and mussels or turn up the heat on chowders(creamy white or tomatoey red) and crab soup. Chef Connor Lowe captains a neat-as-a-pincrew in the open kitchen.

COOKING: Lumley sources only the west coast’s best when it comes to oysters. Savary Is-land clams and Salt Spring mussels bathe in herb- or shallot-infused white wine, accom-panied by crusty bread. Halibut bought in fletches (large fillets—four to a fish) is cutin-house. Landlubbers can opt for the top-notch local lamb burger. Sides include babygreens, spinach salad tumbled with strawberries and goat cheese, house-cut Idaho orsweet-potato fries.

MUST HAVES: Oysters! Firm, salty summer ices are trickled in green-apple/shallotmignonette. Or, if available, Olympias, whose celery-salt and metallic flavour is best en-joyed naked. Did I mention the superb mussels, clams and halibut? Then there are golden-grilled diver scallops, mahi-mahi lettuce wraps … Ideally, round up a few folk, sidle up tothe bar or picnic table, order a few brews and share.

DRINK: Vancouver’s R&B Raven Cream Ale on tap slakes a mean thirst. And how better tochase an oyster than with a Guinness? Raimat Chardonnay/Albarino and Joie’s Noble Blendare shellfish-perfect partners. Three Pinot Noirs top the red-wine list for those who preferred. Now’s your chance. Down an oyster, with, say, a wee dram of clean, malty Dalwhinniefrom the nice little Scotch list.

THE SUNSHINECOAST

Natalie King, Director of Food&Beverage at The Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa sends us thisrecommendation

Foxtrot Pinot Noir 2005"This is an absolutely superb example of BC Pinot Noir. It is a deeply coloured wine withan intense nose of cherry & spice. It is so silky smooth in the mouth, with satisfying andrich berry flavours and an oaky spiciness. So well balanced and nice long finish to savour.Although tough to find (I think it is only available in fine restaurants in BC), it is worth thehunt to enjoy it with a great meal. Our service team loves selling it; although it is a bitpricey, customers are always impressed and very satisfied with the recommendation."

Greg Hays from Cafe Brio shares this pick

Meyer Family "Tribute" Chardonnay 2007Although this is only their second, the Meyers have crafted what must surely be one ofthe finest Chardonnays in Canada, and this is just their entry level Chard. They alsomakea "Micro Cuvee" that is mind boggling for $65. The vineyard has a northerly aspect whichallows the grapes to mature gracefully rather than quickly. The long, slow ripeningprocess results in grapes with a vast spectrum of flavours and an elegant minerality.More closely resembling Burgundy than Napa, it has an intense nose with hints of woodsmoke, citrus, melon and peach. Quite dry on the palate with attractive weight in amedium to full-bodied style andmarked by a streak of refreshing acidity. Beautifully bal-anced with a long, lovely finish. Outstanding B.C. Chardonnay. $30 from the winery,3.1acres producing only 330 cases.

WINE PICKS


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WHITESDomaine du Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc2003 France $16.00-19.00I had forgotten just how good this zippy lit-tle French Sauvignon Blanc from the Cotesde Gascogne could be. Crisp and refreshingwith intense citrus, melon and mineral nu-ances, nicely balanced with good acidityand a long clean finish.Torley Chapel Hill Pinot Grigio 08Hungary $13.00-15.00Since the fall of the iron curtain, WesternEurope has scoured the derelict collectivesof Eastern Europe in search of cheap butgood wine. While this may seem a bit of anoxymoron perhaps the thirst has finallybeen sated in the tiny village of Balaton-boglar, located somewhere in Hungary. Thisunpretentious little Pinot Grigio is light andrefreshing with soft apple and citrusflavours. A lovely summer sipper worth atry.Little StrawVineyards Sauvignon Blanc 07British Columbia $17.00-19.00Little Straw is a family owned winery lo-cated on the lower slopes of Mt. Boucherie,just outside of Kelowna. Fresh and livelywith subtle citrus and floral notes on thenose with more than a hint of pink grape-fruit on the palate! Very nice indeed.Domaine de Grachies Blanc 08France $13.00-15.00This is an easy wine to like and why not forthe price. A blend of Colombard, Ugni Blancand the ever popular Gros Mansang, youmay well ask, where my friend do you everfind such obscure wines? Well, since youasked, this one harkens from the Cotes deGascogne in southwest France. It is veryfresh with subtle grapefruit, apple and cit-rus flavours, in essence a wine of simplecharm.

REDSPesquie Cotes duVentoux Les Terrasses 07France $18.00-20.00For those disciplined few who managed tospit more then they swallowed at the RhoneGang tasting at Sips Artisan Bistro this pastspring you may remember how deliciouslydecadent the 2006 Terrasses was. It’s densefruit flavours and remarkable depth! Howthe silky smooth finish just kept going andgoing and going! Well guess what? The2007 is better! Fat and lush with blackcherry, raspberry and spice flavours, velvetytannins and a finish of great length and re-solve.Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture 06Italy $20.00-23.00With over 30 hectares planted with localgrape varieties and a state of the art winery,Bisceglia is one of the movers and shakersof this remote region in southern Italy.There is nothing refined about this wine, itis dark and potent with an earthy fecunditythat is lusty but not unattractive. The fruitis all there but so are the tannins and acid-ity. In essence this is a wine not for the faintof heart, the timid or those with a daintypalate. It is concentrated, robust, chewyand damn near impenetrable! All of Bis-ceglia’s vineyards are organic. Very highlyrecommended but needs air, patience andplenty of fortitude.Twin Islands Pinot Noir 07 New Zealand$22.00-24.00Medium-bodied with red cherry, strawberry,sweet barnyard and spicy oak aromas, asilky smooth texture and simple fruitflavours. Soft and very easy to like.Fairview Cellars Cabernet Franc 07British Columbia $25.00-28.00Fairview Cellars is located at the north endof the Golden Mile in Oliver. With just 6acres of vineyard, dedicated exclusively toCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc andMerlot, owner Bell Eggert does not appearto be in any hurry to get rich off the bountyof his meager production. I like all his winesbut the Cabernet Franc is my favourite. Bal-anced and supple with concentrated blackcurrant and bell pepper flavours, medium-bodied with soft tannins and good length.Highly recommended.Delas Saint-Esprit Cotes du Rhone 07France $18.00-20.00Made from a blend of Syrah, Grenache,Mourvedre and Carignan, this sumptuousRhone red is lip-smacking good with gener-ous blackberry, pepper and spice flavours, around supple texture and a soft fruit filledfinish.Montes Alpha Syrah 06Chile $28.00-30.00This is one rich red that won’t take too big abite out of your beleaguered pocket book.Generous and ripe with heady layers ofblackberry, pepper and roasted coffeeflavours, full bodied with soft tannins and along smooth finish.

—by Larry Arnold

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EDITOR’SPICK

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Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd.250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

FIND A NEW FAVOURITE

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.matticksfarm.com

VVQQAA WWiinnee SShhooppFall for B.C. Wines this Autumn!

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

Making sacrifices is a necessary part of crafting high-quality wine on Van-couver Island. And no one understands that better than Blue Grouse patri-arch/senior winemaker Hans Kiltz, who brought his family—wife Evangeline,son Richard and daughter Sandrina—to the Cowichan Valley in 1988 and pur-chased a 31-acre plot southwest of Duncan that included an experimental vine-yard.Though there were some 156 different varieties being propagated in that

one-acre vineyard, he set out zeroing in on the ones he knewwould dowell andclearing an additional nine acres to plant varieties well-suited to the short,volatile growing season. “The basic thought here is that we have a similar cli-mate to the moderate wine regions of Europe, like Germany, Austria andSwitzerland,” he says. “And the wine industry in Germany is mainly based onRiesling varieties.”Kiltz, a Berlin native himself, knows European wines and the challenges of

growing vinifera grapes in cool climates, so he took the path of least resistanceand sought to follow the European model, with initially mixed results. “Wetried growing Riesling here, but it’s not the same. I wasn’t happy with it so Ipulled it out. What are doing much better are Riesling crosses.”Which was one of a succession of sacrifices he had to make along the way.

As juicy, crisp and delicious as these Riesling crosses are—and Blue Grouse’s are superlative—they do not come with the same cachet as the noble grape varieties. But Kiltz knew he couldmake good wine with them. So in the late 1980s—long before any Vancouver Island wineries except Vigneti Zanatta existed—in went Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and Siegerrebe, allearly-ripening Riesling crosses. Unfortunately, these names didn’t initially register with North Americans who have only in the past 40 years come around to fine wine. “It’s difficult to mar-ket a variety that’s not well known,” says Kiltz. “I had this problem with the Ortega at the beginning because it sounds Spanish, but it’s a German grape.”At least one of his early plantings, as it turns out, wasn’t such a hard sell and has become one of Blue Grouse’s most highly regarded wines. Their Pinot Gris, a classic Alsatian varietal, is

like a tropical fruit basket in the mouth. Full of juicy, ripe flavours, it also has a nice, slightly pink hue, a testament to the ripeness Kiltz can attain on his sunny south-facing vineyard.That abundant sunshine also helps develop the red wines—Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and the unique Black Muscat—that Kiltz eventually added to his line-up, something they didn’t ini-

tially plan on 20 years ago. “I was reluctant to plant red varieties at the very beginning,” Kiltz admits, “but the demand is there.”To make such high-quality wines and be successful year in and year out, however, have meant continued concessions to the Island climate. One of the greatest is accepting that to main-

tain that quality, they must sometimes significantly sacrifice yield. Some years they can produce 3,000 cases, others may net only 1,600. The last two vintages have been particularly chal-lenging due to poor weather, but the smaller quantities nonetheless weren’t diminished in quality due to their selectivity in the vineyard. “[In poor years] you have a smaller [yield],” explainsKiltz, “because you crop back as much as you can and lose grapes because you decide not to pick them because they’re not properly ripened. Last year, we left about 50 percent of the PinotGris out there. We picked the ones we thought were ripe enough.”So these are the sacrifices Vancouver Island wineries have to make. If one is to use Blue Grouse as a model, however, they ultimately lead to success. The winery’s output may be small, its selec-

tions heavy on aromatic whites, but the wines are exceptional across the board, the whites all perfect accompaniments to local shellfish and produce, the reds well suited to fresh-caught salmon or

BlueGrouseIn this second in his series on Vancouver Islandwineries, Adem Tepedelen learns how CowichanValley’s Blue Grouse Vineyards adapts to the Island’sshort, volatile growing season.

WINEMAKER HANS KILTZ IN HIS VINEYARD AT BLUE GROUSE

Cowichan VallThough Kilt

does believe Vland are differally have lotsmuch the soilWhatever it

Best vintagesTasting roomWeb: www.bluPhone: 250-7Address: 436

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Cowichan Valley-raised duck.Though Kiltz is reluctant to ascribe any characteristics of terroir to his particular property, he

does believe Vancouver Island has something special. “Certainly the wines we make on the is-land are different than, say, the same varieties from the Okanagan,” he admits. “Our wines usu-ally have lots of fruit, maybe a shorter finish, maybe a bit more acidity. I don’t know if it’s asmuch the soil, or more the climate.”Whatever it is, Kiltz is figuring it out, along with the rest of his fellow Island winemakers.

Best vintages: 2001-2006Tasting room hours: April through December, Wednesday–Saturday: 11 a.m.–5 p.m.Web: www.bluegrousevineyards.comPhone: 250-743-3834Address: 4365 Blue Grouse Rd., Duncan, BC

919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463)www.strathliquor.com

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PEARS IN A PERRY TREE

About a year and half ago Kristen Jordan of Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse near Victoriafielded a call from a member of the BC Fruit Testers Association. They had called to saythey believed they had found an old Perry orchard on a property in North Saanich. WouldKristen come and take a look and a make confirmation? Kirsten was immediately excited.Ok, let’s back up a back a bit. British Columbians can be forgiven if they don’t knowwhat

Perry is. Perry is a pear cider traditionally made in the UK from a specific category of peartrees called Perry trees. Unfortunately our beloved LDB doesn’t make much room for au-thentic Perries so you are unlikely to have tried this form of pear cider. Perry orchards arerare in Canada (those in existence were probably planted by European immigrants a cen-tury or so ago) and real Perry is not made in Canada (to my knowledge). Quite possiblythis North Saanich orchard is the only one still in existence onVancouver Island. Kirsten wasexcited. She had spent time abroad in Wales and in France and had become familiar withPerry ciders and had loved them.Kirsten arrived at the North Saanich orchard to find a very old and gnarled orchard of tall

pear trees all precisely aligned in straight rows. The trees bore round, brown-russetcoloured fruit not much larger than a walnut that didn’t look at all like your typical Bartlettpear. Biting into one she found it to be rock-hard and astringent with tannins but also withhigh acidity and high sugar. It was indeed fruit from a Perry tree she concluded. The won-der is the property owners had left the orchard intact, even though they found the rockhard little fruits a nuisance that required careful picking-up of the falls before mowing thegrass around the trees.Although the orchard isn’t large by commercial standards there were enough trees and

enough pears that Kristen thought she could press and ferment the fruit to make a batchof Perry. Unlike eating pears which are soft and can gum up the press, Perry pears pressout to a dry, hard cake and give off a wonderful juice that is well balanced with acidity, tan-nins and sugar—in short—perfect for making a cider that ferments out to about 7-8%.With pears, (including Perry pears) part of the fruit’s sugar is sorbital sugar, which does notferment. This means the cider won’t ferment bone dry and a little residual sweetness isleft. The end result is a cider that is delicate, well balanced with a pleasant pearish aromathat is pleasingly off-dry. Sea Cider’s cidermaker made a small batch of Perry last year andis working on a larger production this year - some of which will be offered to the public forsale. Call the cidery for more information. 250.544.482

A RARE PERRY ORCHARD THAT HAS MANAGEDTO SURVIVE IN NORTH SAANICH

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Choosing a wine is an ongoing dilemma. Even if you narrow down the selection to a specific country or grape, you arestill presented with plenty of choices. While aesthetes may pick the wine with the prettiest label, the more methodi-cal look at the label for additional clues. The phrase “old vines” certainly alludes to something extra special. Will it bebetter and more complex than the bottle that sells for the same price but doesn’t mention anything about the age ofthe plants? Or is it simply a marketing ploy?On their own, terms like “special reserve” or “proprietor’s selection” mean absolutely nothing. “Old vines” (or

“vieilles vignes”) is seemingly more descriptive, making reference to the age of the vines that produced the wine. Itinfers that old vines are intrinsic to the quality of the wine. Indeed, the general belief is that the older the vine, the bet-ter the wine it will produce. As a vine ages, it becomes less vigorous and naturally produces less fruit per vine. “Loweryields” concentrate the fruit flavours in the grapes, resulting in more concentrated wines. In addition, a vine’s root sys-tem becomes better established with age, stretching deep into the soil and reaching precious undergroundminerals.These are purported to endow the wine with a certain je ne sais quoi, an extra layer of complexity. It is not unlike ushumans who become less active with age but more interesting with life experience. At least we like to think the latteris true . . .Typically, the fruit of a vine isn’t used to produce wine until the vine is three years old. In fact, some European reg-

ulations impose a minimum of more than three years. Until vines reach approximately 20, they exhibit a childlike ex-uberance and the vine grower must work hard to keep yields in check. Subsequently, they become less and lessproductive. By the time they reach 50, most vines produce so little they are no longer economically viable. Yet someproducers persist in making wines from vines more than 100 years old.At what point do vines reach their golden age? Global or even regional agreement simply doesn’t exist. In fact, the

term “old vines” isn’t legislated, so technically a producer can label his bottle as such even if the vines are amere nineyears old, for example. “A vine can be old if the producer decides it is old,” quips Philippe Trébignaud of Domaine dela Sarazinière. Even among those who use the term honestly like Philippe, it is relative. Domaine de la Sarazinière’s‘Vieilles Vignes’ cuvées come from vines that are more than 80 years old, but even the regular bottlings are madefrom 60-year-old vines. In the Okanagan Valley, Tantalus’ ‘Old Vines’ Riesling is made from a selection of vines ap-proximately 30 years old. This may be considered young by more established regions’ standards; however, these aresome of British Columbia’s oldest wine-producing vines.From the consumer’s perspective, it would be helpful if there was an international standard. In Australia, Yalumba

has actually developed a hierarchy based on age. A vine is considered old at 35 (what a blow to our egos!), antiqueat 70, centenarian at 100 and tri-centenary if it spans three centuries. The folks at Yalumba would like to see this hi-erarchy adopted by the rest of the world, but they have their work cut out for them. Getting winemakers to agree onwhat age is old is an impossible task. It is an ambiguous notion, not a science.The fixation with old vines pervades every region.When you see those twisted gnarly trunks, you start to understand

why. It is an otherworldly experience to walk through an old vineyard with rows of thick stocky stumps and we treadreverently. A recent visit to the Napa’s Moore Vineyard, made famous by Turley’s Zinfandel “Earthquake” bottling, pro-voked a sense of awe. Planted in 1905, it is one of the region’s oldest vineyards.WinemakerMike Hendry, whowill even-tually make wine from these treasured vines, posed the question while we were exploring the vineyard with him: “Do

— By Michaela Morris and Michelle Bouffard

you think a vineyard is good because it’s old or do you think it’sold because it’s good?” He believes that vines make it to “oldage” because they produced good grapes to begin with. Itsounds like the chicken and the egg debate.Winemakers agree that there are advantages as well as dis-

advantages to working with old vines. The well-established rootsystems of older vines enable them to perform more consis-tently in adversarial conditions such as drought and extremeheat or cold. Yet these old vines are not necessarily economi-cal. By the time a vineyard reaches 30, the vines’ behaviour is nolonger uniform, making them much more difficult to work with.As vines age, they become more susceptible to disease, whichaffects yields. A common set of diseases goes by the sinistername of “dead arm.” These are fungal diseases that essentiallycause the wood to rot. Some of those 100-plus-year-old vinesat the Moore Vineyard have trunks as thick as 40-50 centime-tres in diameter, yet they are so fragile they could be swept awayby a strong windstorm. Working a vineyard like this is a labourof love. Surely the wine comes at a higher price. Old vines bot-tlings are usually an estate’s top and most expensive wine.Those who persevere with this demanding work demonstrate

a rare fascination for old vines. They are drawn to the intrigueand the seemingly intangible character they give the wine.Bertrand Sourdais, winemaker at Dominio de Atauta in Spain’sRibera del Duero region, describes this as a sense of place. Ac-cording to him, vines that have spent over a century adaptingto their specific environment will express “a typicity that will beamplified and that only old vines are capable of offering us.”Wefully agree with Bertrand that wines made from old vines canhave a unique and intriguing character. But does this mean thatyoung vine wines lack charm and complexity? One has to lookno further than “The Judgement of Paris.” The recent film BottleShock is based on this famous tasting in which France’s top es-tablished wines were pitted against California’s newcomers. Thewinning wine was the inaugural vintage (1973) of Stag’s LeapWine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon made from three-year-old vines.The old vines debate will always come into play when one

questions why a particular wine is so good. One of Australia’smost iconic wines, Henschke’s “Hill of Grace,” comes from avineyard planted in the early ’60s, not 1960 but 1860. Almost150 years ago! The wine has gained worldwide acclaim, and the2004 vintage stunned us with its layers of complexity and re-fined flavours. Is this a result of the vines’ age? Or can it be at-tributed to brilliant winemaking and proper care in the vineyard?We suggest a combination of all three. Old vines are just onepart of a very complex story.

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T a s t i n g N o t e sWhites2007 Tantalus ‘Old Vines’ Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, $29.90*We’ve been big fans of this wine since the very first vintage. Made from some ofthe oldest vines in B.C., it is a more austere dry style of Riesling. Packed with con-centrated flavours of lime and grapefruit, it resembles a Riesling from the ClareValley region in Australia. Screaming acidity requires food like ceviche, cheesefondue or tomato salad.

ChampagneLarmandier-Bernier, Vieilles Vigne de Cramant, Champagne AC, France, $135.00*One of our best Champagne moments was a tête-à-tête with this cuvée. The firstsip tastes just like the chalky soil found in Champagne. Don’t get scared; it’s a veryappealing attribute. Slightly reserved with fantastic structure and a long complexmineral finish. If you can afford it, buy a few bottles and put them away for a fewyears. Otherwise, splurge on a single bottle. It’s worth every single penny!

Reds2006 Domaine de la Sarazinière, 'Cuvée Tradition' Mâcon Bussières AC Rouge,France, $28.00*Beaujolais isn’t the only region producing vibrant and delicious Gamay.WinemakerPhilippe Trébignaud crafts a fine example from theMâcon region in Burgundy. Per-haps the complexity and je ne sais quoi character can be attributed to the 60-year-old vines. Excellent with charcuterie, salmon and tuna. Very charming!

2005 Château Roquetaillade, ‘La Grange’ Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Graves ACVieilles Vignes, France, $35.00If you are looking for a well-priced Bordeaux, it doesn’t get much better than this.Deep luscious flavours of cocoa, plum and cassis combined with a classic pencilshaving character make it a fine match with rack of lamb. What makes it so supe-rior, a combination of old vines and a great vintage? We’ll have to try the 2006 tosettle the debate.

2007 Garnacha de Fuego, Old Vines, Catalayud DO, Spain, $15.99Looks AREN’T everything. Once you get past the cheesy label, you’ll fall in lovewith this wine. Bright and juicy flavours of raspberries and leather make it intrin-sically Grenache. God love the Spaniards; once again, they’ve producer a killerwine for the price.

2006 Altos de la Hoya, Finca Hoya de Santa Ana, Monastrell, Jumilla DO, Spain,$17.99Altos de la Hoya showcases the typical wild and gamey aromas so often associatedwith Monastrell. Its dense structure and flavours of dried fruit will charm thedrinker who seeks something full on a cool night. The vines average 80 years oldwith some that are more than 130, but you won’t find any mention of this on thelabel. A crowd pleaser.

2006 Quinta do Crasto, Reserva Old Vines, Douro DOC, Portugal, $42.99Portugal is another country blessed with old vines. Here you have between 25-30different indigenous grape varieties averaging 70 years old, crafting a full-bodiedand characterful wine. The hallmark of this big Portuguese red is its acidity, mak-ing it a great partner at the dinner table. Red meat please!

2006 Ravenswood ‘Barricia,’ Sonoma Valley Benchlands, California, $45.99California has an abundance of dry farmed old vines. Made from 100-year-oldvines, the single vineyard ‘Barricia’ is full of succulent deep black currant andlicorice flavours and slight grilled herbs notes. A must with red meat; especiallyribs.

*Wines available at private wine stores only. Prices may vary.


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Alberto Pozzolo Italian Bakery 250.388.4557JFine sea salt and a just picked tomato from the garden, it is getting about thattime! I slice the tomato so that it is porous and then sprinkle it with the the sea saltand I am very happy. It is around this same time that I chase that tomato with a ripegarden fig topped with some vin cotto. I love this time of year.Ben Peterson Heron Rock Bistro 250.383.1545Just this morning my chefs and I were brainstorming this exact exercise. We wantedto highlight apricot in a stuffed Cowichan Bay chicken breast feature this evening;it had to be light for summer, melty and oozing yet not running out when hot, andultimately (and obviously) delicious! We tested a few ratios of cheeses to fruit toherb and settled on a combination of fresh cheese curds we made ourselves, goat'sfeta, basil, lemon zest and of course, the apricot. It was a big hit and we 86'd by theend of the night!Trish Dixon Breakers Fresh Food Cafe 250.725.2558Summertime favourite at Breakers Fresh Food Cafe has to be our Roast Chicken andCherry Salad Sandwich. A nice crusty baquette filled with roast organic chicken,fresh Okanagan cherries, lemon aioli & fresh herbs. Mmmm… summertime… packedlunches for a day at the beach.Aaron Rail Avenue Bistro 250.890.9200I’ve been loving raspberries and goat cheese lately. I think it’s the unctuousness ofthe cheese with the tart zippy flavour of the raspberries. The pairing has so muchpotential: in salad, cheesecake or panna cotta, venison or lamb with raspberrysauce and goat cheese crumbled on top…MarkusWeilandMarkus’Wharfside Restaurant 250.642.3596My spontaneous pairing usually happens during a walk through my greenhouse-grabbing a ripe tomato off the vine, cutting a few leaves of freshbasil, sprinkling bit of salt and popping it in my mouth!Robert Belcham Fuel 604.288.7905Right now it has to be Highpoint Farms (Gabriola Island) raspberries withcaramelized Italian meringue. The sweet caramelization is the perfect foil to theslight acidity in the raspberries.Cory Pelan La Piola 250.388.4517Tomatoes: Beefsteak, Black Plum, Green zebra, Brandywine, Latah, Black Gypsy, Yel-low Peach, White Cherry, Tigerella to name a few. We are lucky to have so many vari-eties of such outstanding quality growing here on the Island and having just receiveda big order moments before writing this, they are definitely on my mind. I am imagin-ing them right now sliced on fresh calabrese bread drizzled liberally with FruttatoVerde extra virgin olive oil, a little sea salt and a couple of Arugula leaves. The worstpairing that comes to mind? Nuts and gum.

"Spontaneously pair an ingredient withanother thatcomes tomindandtelluswhy?"

CHEF’S TALK — by Ceara Lornie

Russell Gelling manager at the 6 Mile Liquor Store shares this favourite with us:

Nichol Vineyard Estate Pinot Gris 2007"Salmon is not just a BC fish. This salmon coloured pinot gris has had just the rightamount of skin contact to boost the body with added fruit flavours of peach, berry andstone fruits. Addedmineral and citrus notes on the finish only make this wine evenmorecomplex. The winemaker also voided the harsh tannins that some roses show, leaving uswith a clean fresh summer patio wine. Drink with your favourite BC coastal shellfish orcitrus grilled salmon."Now available in select retailers.

FarmsteadWines creator Anthony Nicalo knows a thing or two about sniffing out a goodwine. He shares a rare favourite with EAT readers:

2006 Vinoterra Winery Kisi"Kisi is an indigenous white-grape varietal grown predominantly in eastern Georgia. Thiswine is fermented in clay amphora and aged in oak. Slightly oxidized and a lovely ambercolour with dried stonefruit and a minty-lemon balm thing going on. I look for really in-teresting, offbeat wines that are sometimes hit or miss, but always very intruiging andcomplex. This particular bottle is probably impossible to find in BC (look for it when youare in Seattle or shopping online for wine to send to your Pt. Roberts mailbox).

WINE PICKS

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For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. � Celebrating our 15th anniversary with a fresh look, we are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown varietal line up and Oldfield Series wines. � At Tinhorn Creek we sustainably farm our land and create wines of merit. Our 150acres of vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. � Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. We will welcome you with open arms.

NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGANwww.tinhorn.com

DRESSED UP &READY TO GO!

eat magazine sept | oct 2009

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