cij trends & colours summer 2009
DESCRIPTION
International Jewellery trends and coloursTRANSCRIPT
International Jewellery C
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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY
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46 East 57th Street - New York, NY 10022 - Tel 212-308-29009517 Wilshire Boulevard at 2 Rodeo Drive - Beverly Hills, CA 90212 - Tel. 310-276-7022
441 East Hopkins Avenue - Aspen, CO 81611 - Tel. 970-544-8303
MILANO, VENEZIA, FIRENZE, CALA DI VOLPE, CAPRI, PARIS, MONTE CARLO, LONDON, MOSCOW,NEW YORK, ASPEN, BEVERLY HILLS, TOKYO, OSAKA, HONG KONG
WWW.BUCCELLATI.COM
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The barrel of the new Graf von Faber-Castell Intuition line is shaped from a single piece of precious resin. The platinum-plated metal parts bring out the gleaming
black of the barrel and cap to brilliant effect.
Pure elegance
Each 18-carat bicolor gold nib is “run in” by hand.
For more information and a list of our authorized dealers please visit www.Graf-von-Faber-Castell.com Faber-Castell USA, Inc. • 9450 Allen Drive • Cleveland, Ohio 44125 • 800-311-8684
Visit us at COUTURE • Lafite Ballroom • Booth 100 • May 28 - June 2, 2009 • Wynn Las Vegas
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Over the last few years, Couture International Jeweler has undergone a number of changes. As part of its most recent transformation, I am delighted to say that I have been brought back as Editor-in-Chief, a position I previously held until mid-2004.
And that’s just the beginning. The title is changing to the name that the magazine was born with in Geneva, Switzerland more than 35 years ago: International Jewellery. We will, however, still maintain our strong and important affiliation with the Couture Show, as well as remaining its official trade publication.
Perhaps the most important change for our readers and advertisers is that the magazine is, once again, the only jewellery trade publication with a truly global reach. Mailed along with its sister publication, Europa Star, the world’s most read and respected watch magazine, International Jewellery has guaranteed postal delivery to high-end retailers and key buyers, not just in North America, but also in Europe, the Middle East, Asia, and Latin America.In addition to this vast distribution network, comes a new international website dedicated to the world of haute joaillerie and luxury creations - www.CIJintl.com - première launch for the Las Vegas Show.
For Brands, this means that your international exposure to the right buyers is virtually unlimited. For Retailers, it means that you will always be on top of the hottest international trends—trends that are set around the globe. Today’s high-end consumers travel, and their tastes often reflect what they see in cities as diverse as London, Paris, Tokyo, New York, Rome, Dubai, Beijing, Rio, or Madrid. Not only will you be able to anticipate these trends, but provide your sophisticated clientele the Brands they want.
Along with IJ’s focus on international distribution comes the ability to provide an international perspective on the luxury jewellery industry—and it’s a focus we take very seriously. As this issue goes to press, I am in China for an international conference—but more about that in the next issue. While China is usually thought of as a supplier of jewellery (of all qualities), its domestic market is potentially one of the world’s largest consumers of fine jewellery. This fact has not gone unnoticed by the large luxury groups that have already established a foothold in the nation, with more high-end Brands moving into this dynamic market every month.
To provide you with an international perspective, we feature trends from around the world and the designers who are setting these trends. We are bringing back our signature “Trends & Colours” section, showing the latest designs and the hottest colours of the seasons, as well as a new “In the Press” section highlighting the jewellery that is being worn and talked about by celebrities. “Success Stories” takes a look at successful retailers around the globe, what they are doing to remain that way in these challenging economic times, and the Brands they carry.
And we are not stopping there. International Jewellery will also continue bonus distribution at the world’s most important international fairs, such as the three editions of Vicenza, Couture in Las Vegas, BaselWorld, and Hong Kong, among others.
Put it all together and the new International Jewellery is your single source for what’s hot and what’s not—from an international perspective to your own hometown.
All my best for a profitable summer.
CynthiaCynthia UnninayarEditor-in-Chief
E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R
InternatIonal PersPectIves
Vicolo dei sarmati, 1/A - 15048 Valenza (AL) - Italytel. (+) 39 0131 946665 - fax (+) 39 0131 946095
e-mail: [email protected] www.andreoli-gioielli.comPresenti alle fiere di: BASILEA - NEW YORK - LAS VEGAS (Couture JCK) - VICENZA
Impianto x Couture maggiov2:Impianto x Couture maggio 07.05.09 20:49 Page1
2202 Editor’s Letter Global Perspectives
10 In the Press Who’s Wearing What
12 Retrospective Grace Kelly and Cartier – The Princess and the Jeweller
14 Cover Feature The Gems of John Galliano
16 Must See’s in Las Vegas Selected brands from around the world at the summer shows in Las Vegas.
22 Couture Spotlight French Elegance at Couture
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On the CoverPendant in the new “Dagger” collection by John Galliano.
Cover Featureon page 14
www.johngallliano.com
www.operajewels.com
i n t h i s i s s u e
Trends & Colours24 The Power of Purple26 Eternal Sunshine28 Circular Reasoning30 Creatures of the Deep
32 Industry Focus Opera Jewels – The Sounds of Success
Fair Fare & Fashion36 BaselWorld 2009 – Mixed Results
48 OroArezzo – Signs of Confidence
52 Success Stories Louis Anthony Jewelers – Finding One’s Personal Style
56 Freely Speaking A Few Words from Roberto Coin
54 Index
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Afrika Collection
Who’s Wearing What? A glimpse of fine jewellery on the red carpet and in the press.
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eva Mendes in Van Cleef & Arpels at the Golden Globes. (photo credit: Jen Lowery, startraks photo)
sophia Loren wears jewellery from the Damiani sophia Loren collection on the red carpet at the 2009 Academy Awards.
Cristina Aguilar at the Oscars wearing jewellery by stephen Webster.
At a recent event, her Majesty, Queen rania of Jordan, wore a variety of white and black diamond gold jewellery by Gurhan.
taraji p. henson wore a bracelet and earrings from the sunrise collection by h.stern at the 2009 screen Actors Guild.
During Monaco’s rose Ball in March, Charlotte Casiraghi wore a pair of earrings and a snake ring in white gold and diamonds by repossi.
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As a tribute to Princess Grace of Monaco and a reminder of the historical links that have existed between Cartier and the Principality of Monaco since
1920, the Cartier creations owned by Princess Grace make up a special exhibition at the National Museum of Tokyo, from March 28 to May 31, 2009.
grace Kelly and cartier – the Princess and the Jeweller
r e t r O s p e C t i V e
prince rainier iii and Grace Kelly in paris, before the Cartier boutique on the rue de la paix. (photo credit: Jack nisberg/roger-Viollet)
hen brooch in gold, platinum, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, pearls, and coral, with an emerald cabochon for the eye, 1957. (photo credit: the royal palace of Monaco Archives)
her last appearance on the big screen, Grace Kelly wore her Cartier engagement ring, with a 10.47-carat emerald-cut diamond, in the film high society by Charles Walters, 1956. (photo credit: Dennis stock/Magnum photos)
poodle brooch in white gold, platinum, diamonds, rubies, and onyx, 1958. A paw and the tail are movable. (photo credit: the royal palace of Monaco Archives)
princess Grace of Monaco wore a Cartier necklace in platinum and diamonds, a wedding present, during a reception in philadelphia in 1963. (photo credit: Jack rosen, time Magazine/Getty)
three brooch-clips in yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, and rubies (49 carats), designed to be attached to a tiara, 1955. (photo credit: the royal palace of Monaco Archives)
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C O V E R f E A T U R E
John Galliano
John Galliano launched his own fashion label in 1984, creating historically-inspired designs infused with a contemporary edge. Part romantic and part rebel, Galliano’s trademark quickly became his delicate bias-cut gowns and wonderfully tailored suits. In 1987, the Gibraltar-born designer won the first of several British Designer of the Year awards. In 1990, he moved from Britain to Paris, and in 1995, he was hired to revitalize the stuffy house of Givenchy, greatly surprising the French fashion establishment with his romantic vision of dishevelled lovelies in chiffon slips and billowing gowns. The following year, Galliano became chief designer at Dior, France’s haute couture flagship, a position he still holds in addition to managing his own brand.
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, the house of John Galliano is launching its fine jewellery collection in the United States with stunning new pieces that capture the fashion and fantasy of Galliano’s spirit. The pieces are designed by Galliano himself and are produced in collaboration with noted Italian jeweller Valente Milano and distributed by Opera Jewels.
“People want to invest in the dream, in the name, so I have kept our inspiration true to the essence of Galliano. We have combined beauty, romance, and adventure—all the things I love—into our three key themes,” explains John Galliano. “Jewellery is an investment in craftsmanship, rather than following trends. I wanted to develop three themes that are very much part of the Galliano DNA—
the dagger, the flower, and the coin.”
The Dagger collection“I am an adventurer,” Galliano says. “Travel is one of
my greatest inspirations. I like to think of myself as a pirate of life. The dagger is a very Galliano symbol of bravery, courage, daring, and dazzle.”
The Gems of JohN GalliaNoThe most influential fashion designer of his generation, John Galliano has an exceptional flair for the theatrical—his runway shows are often likened to performance art. Now, his unrestrained sense of fantasy and drama can be found in his new collection of fine jewellery.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
“Dagger” signet ring with white and black diamonds and pink sapphires in white gold.
“flower” sapphire, white coral, and diamond ring.Earring in diamonds and
sapphires.
Exotic backdrops are the norm for John Galliano’s fashion shows. Here the model is wearing a “Dagger” pendant.
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Following his research into pirate treasure chests and ending with the famous dagger of Topkapi, Galliano created a Dagger collection that features a white gold signet ring, inset with black and white diamonds and blood red rubies, as well as Dagger earrings in white gold, inset with black and white diamonds. Among the necklaces is a classic strand piece inspired by an English rose garden—thorns and beauty—complete with pirate pearls, white and black diamonds, and red rubies, supporting a dagger with a drop of ruby red blood at its tip.
The Flower collectionFor the romantic feminine side of Galliano, he created a beautiful Flower collection. “I love sending and receiving flowers. I wanted to capture the delicacy and romance of flowers in bloom,” he muses. “Now, I have a collection that has blossomed into diamonds, sapphires, and gold—it’s so Galliano.” The pieces include a pink flower ring, delicate earrings, and small pendants in white gold, pink sapphire pavé, and diamonds. Large stones on the main flower nestle on petals of tourmaline, rhodolite, and amethyst. A small central flower is made of blue sapphires and is set off with a glittering Galliano G set in diamonds on the chain.
The Coin collection“Another symbol of adventure, travel, of riches lost and riches found, the coin reminds me of my childhood, of far away lands and treasures to be found,” adds Galliano. A symbol of exchange and of passage from one person to another, a coin has its own life, its own story. The Coin collection features rings and pendants. In some of the rings, the Galliano coat of arms is engraved on a silver or jet coin set in yellow gold. An oversized silver coin pendant with black diamonds hangs from a yellow gold chain, with onyx stones and “knots” in the chain. Clearly, these lovely John Galliano Coins are too precious to use for stamping a wax-sealed treasure map.
Fashion’s great romantic“I am thrilled the jewellery line is growing and attracting attention. I think it shows another side to Galliano. I love that we are creating
treasure of our own,” concludes John Galliano. The success of both his fashion and jewellery lines is not surprising since John Galliano is one of fashion’s great romantics.
From his fantastical outfits to his colourful background and personality, Galliano’s rise to fame is like a fairy tale. His genius is his ability to communicate this romanticism through his clothes, and now also through The
Gems of John Galliano. (www.johngalliano.com, www.operajewels.com)
The Gems of JohN GalliaNo
“Dagger” earrings in white gold, white and black diamonds, and pink sapphires.
“Coin” ring with the John Galliano coat of arms on the top of a jet coin set in pink gold with sapphires, also available with a silver coin in white gold.
John Galliano’s f/W 09 show was pure theatre, the creation of a fantasy world in the frozen wastes of Balkan folklore, complete with “snow” falling on the runway.
“Dagger” pendant with pirate pearls, white and black diamonds, pink sapphires, and a drop of ruby red blood at its tip.
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L a s V e g a s s u m m e r s h o w s
Between the trade shows of Couture and JCK Las Vegas, as well as the other smaller fairs, there are enough talented and creative designers and brands to keep everyone dashing from place to place. On these pages, we are showcasing a few brands exhibiting in Las Vegas that are definitely worth a visit. They represent designers from around the world, which offer various international perspectives on the art of fine jewellery and related products. A few Must See pieces in Las Vegas…
DeGrisogono: Ring in pink gold set with a 26.07-carat rubellite, 272 brown diamonds, 26 white diamonds, and 234 emeralds. Couture Chamber 1
Faber Castell: Graf von Faber-Castell Limited Edition. Pen of the Year 2009. Roughly 70 individually hand-woven horsehairs provide an alternating dark and light texture, forming a fascinating contrast to the cool platinum-plated metal parts. Couture 100
Must see’s in Las Vegas
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Valente Milano: ‘Althea’ ring in white gold with gemstones, and diamond and sapphire pavé, part of a collection also featuring pendants and earrings. Couture 336
Jaeger LeCoultre: The goddess of love is the muse of this Master Minute Repeater. The dial is decorated with a stunning interpretation of Venus in the form of an enamelled miniature depicting ‘The Birth of Venus’ by Botticelli. Couture VL203
Carl F. Bucherer Fine Swiss Watches: This ‘Alacria Diva Gothic’ model sparkles with diamonds and sapphires, features an ETA quartz movement, white gold case, and galuchat bracelet. Couture VL101
Jewelmer: This company features loose natural golden pearls as well as finished jewellery such as this ‘Petite Fleur’ necklace in yellow gold with golden pearls, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds. JCK 10054
Joaillerie de France: French brands Umane, Mathon, and Joïa present uniquely different styles of jewellery. ‘Pebble’ ring in yellow gold by Umane. ‘Iceberg’ ring featuring a 46.72-carat green beryl by Mathon Paris. ‘Cachemire’ necklace featuring pink beryls, tourmalines, smoky quartz, and diamonds by Joïa. Couture 228
Green G.: Designer Sabina Lee creates a variety of gemstone pieces including these earrings from the ‘Endless Love’ collection in purple sapphires, with black and white diamonds in white gold.JCK Design Center 18152
L a s V e g a s s u m m e r s h o w s
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Travel Through Time and Culture
Booth 349Couture LaTour Ballroom
Lois Hill Accessories 1 West 37th Street New York, N.Y. 10018 1-888-loishil www.loishill.com
Breuning: Suite of gold earrings, ring, and pendant in the ‘Honeymoon’ Collection set with a variety of gemstones in various colours. Luxury by JCK 328, JCK PC 21
Jades by David Lin: High quality purple jade and diamond earrings are among the many colours and styles of jade offered by David Lin. JCK Design Center 23148
Picchiotti: High jewellery necklace of diamonds and exquisite blue sapphires in white gold in the ‘Cascades’ collection. JCK 24
Bergio: Fluid and airy bangle in pink gold and diamonds in the ‘Safari’ collection, that also features earrings, rings, and pendants. JCK 24121-GP
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The jewellery of Joïa is designed to evoke love and passion. The curvaceous and sensual—and sometimes abstract—forms are animated by a flowing stream of precious gemstones and diamonds. The creator of these precious pieces is Jean-Pierre Moreira who, after working many years for one of Lyon’s most respected jewellers, opened his own atelier in 1998. “My muse is the woman with a romantic sensitivity and a very feminine look, whose spirit is faithfully embodied in the jewels,” explains Moreira, who nourishes his inspiration with travels to Brazil, Sri Lanka, and India in search of the perfect coloured gemstones. Joïa’s collections have been well received by retailers around the world whose clients are seeking high quality, unique, and contemporary pieces with a feminine and luxurious flair. (www.joia.fr, [email protected])
Under the collective label, “Joaillerie de France,” three outstanding French brands are exhibiting at Couture for the first time—Joïa, Mathon, and Umane.
By T.R. Flora, Contributing Editor
The “Joaillerie de France” collective brand certifies that products stamped with this hallmark have been designed, manufactured, assembled, set, and polished in France, with respect for the traditional “State-of-the-Art” rules of French jewellery manufacturing and in compliance with the legal, social, ethical, and environmental standards. Among the criteria that distinguish French jewellery are creativity, excellence, and savoir-faire, thus making these precious jewels unique. Joïa, Mathon, and Umane will be showcasing their creations at the Joaillerie de France booth #228 at the 2009 Couture show at the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas, May 28 to June 2.
“Palmyre” pendant in diamonds and white gold by Joïa.
“Anae” necklace in green tourmalines and diamonds in white gold by Joïa.
“Passiflore” ring in purple and pink sapphires with diamonds in white gold by Joïa.
c o u t u r e s P o t l i g h t
French elegance aT couTure
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Mathon Paris jewellery represents a subtle alliance of contemporary, classic, sensual, elegant, and original designs. Inspired by Nature and the arts, the colourful designs enhance the beauty of the stones. Founded in 1931 as a workshop that manufactured for renowned international brands, the company launched its own collection in the 1970s. In 2007, Mathon received formal recognition as a “Living Heritage Company” by the French government. It is now run by Frederic Mathon who has expanded the brand globally, with distribution in North America, Japan, and Europe. The collections range from whimsical to classic contemporary to one-of-a-kind and exclusive pieces. As John Thompson, of Atlanta-based jeweler Mednikow, says, “They have been attracting a lot of attention. Our patrons love the fanciful and fantastic colors from Mathon. Just slip one of Mathon’s frog or turtle rings on a client and watch their eyes light up! We are excited to have this collection at our store.” (www.mathon-paris.com, [email protected])
Umane, a soft and gentle name that suggests force and vital energy, is a company focused on innovative jewellery. The brand is young but partners Valerie Brun and Maé Jund have complementary talents and share a passion for excellence and for shaking up traditional codes with daring designs. Inspiration comes mainly from Nature and its eternal lifecycle. Organic shapes, subtle ranges of tones suggesting the rhythm of the seasons, unconventional materials, airy movements, and feminine sophistication are all part of the collection, evoking comments from their Japanese distributor,
Takenakashouten Co. Ltd., such as: “I understood immediately that Umane pieces were created by women—they are sensual,
tactile, and subtle,” or “My clients adore the Bo Pise earrings because they are so visual, ethnically inspired, and contemporary. They are a real bestseller,” or “The Pebble earrings are simple, chic, and can be worn day or night.” (www.umane-paris.com, [email protected],
“Fleur de corail” necklace in white gold, diamonds, aquamarines, and opals by Mathon.
“Pebble” earrings in white gold, hand-carved onyx, and diamonds by umane.
“Bo Pise” earrings in ebony, gold, silver, diamonds, and green tourmaline by umane.
large “Pebble” ring in white gold, hand-carved onyx, green tourmalines, and diamonds by umane.
“hippocampe” pendant/brooch in white gold, diamonds, coloured sapphires, opals, emerald, and tourmalines by Mathon.
“coriandre” earrings in white gold, diamonds, Paraiba and green tourmalines by Mathon.
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THE POWER OF PURPLE
Derived from mixing a strong cool color with a strong warm color, purple evokes both cool and warm feelings, a
complexity that we don’t find in a single primary color. Purple—a complex color
for our complex times.
1. White gold and amethyst earrings by Mattia Cielo (Italy). 2. Gold, amethyst, and pearl brooch by Bielka (USA). 3. Dress by Tadashi S/S 2009. (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week) 4. White gold, diamond, and amethyst pendant by Color Story (USA). 5. White gold, diamond, and amethyst earrings by Bruner (Brazil). 6. Platinum and amethyst ring by Fillner (Germany). 7. White gold, diamond, and amethyst ring by Samra (Dubai).
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8. Pink gold, diamond, and amethyst earrings by Casato (Italy). 9. Lavendar jade necklace with gold and diamond clasp by David Lin (USA). 10. White gold, diamond, and amethyst earrings by Vianna (Brazil). 11. Pink gold, diamond, and amethyst ring by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 12. Felt and sequin purse by Dots Creations. 13. Pink gold and amethyst bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 14. Dress by Carolina Herrera F/W 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).
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1. Citrine and diamond brooch by Manak Couture (USA). 2. Citrine and diamond earrings by Bruner (Brazil). 3. Citrine and gold “Sunrise” earrings by H.Stern (Brazil). 4. Outfit by Terexov F/W 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes
Benz Fashion Week). 5. Yellow and white diamond ring by Cherie Dori (USA). 6. Gold, diamond, and tourmaline ring by Tamara Comolli (Germany).
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EtErnal SunShinE
From the hottest sunflower shades to the palest buttery tones, yellow is a
warm color that evokes sunshine and happiness. The natural gems of citrine,
sapphire, tourmaline, and diamond provide the perfect colour for the
summer months.
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7. Citrine and gold “Dreamcatcher” earrings by Iosi (Italy). 8. Yellow and white diamond necklace by Daniel K (USA). 9. Citrine, diamond, and gold pendant by Rahaminov (Israel). 10. Citrine and tourmaline earrings by DeGrisogono (Switzerland). 11. Yellow and white diamond ring by Gumuchian (USA). 12. Outfit by Kevan Hall S/S 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 13. Gold and citrine ring by Marco Bicego (Italy). 14. Citrine and platinum pendant and ring by Bunz (Germany).
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1. Gold and diamond necklace by Leo Pizzo (Italy). 2. White gold and diamond circular earrings by Palmiero (Italy). 3. Square-faceted pearls and white gold pendant by Louis Golay (Switzerland). 4. Dress by Pamela Roland S/S 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 5. Gold, diamond, and tourmaline pendant by Trésor (USA). 6. White gold, ruby, and diamond circular earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India).
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T R E N D S & C O L O U R S
CirCular reasoning
Philosophers like to say that to understand reality, we
must understand the circle. We find this elemental form in mathematics,
science, religion, psychology, economics, art, and history. Yet
some of the circle’s most beautiful expresions are
in jewellery.
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7. Gold and diamond earrings by GL Paris (France). 8. Gold and gemstone “Enlightened” pendant by Swarovski (Austria). 9. Circular necklace in sterling silver by Georg Jensen (Denmark). 10. Circles within circles in these gold and pearl earrings by Rosato (Italy). 11. Diamond and white gold pendant by Cento (Italy). 12. Outfit by Adam F/W 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 13. Gold and diamond “Trinity” necklace by Cartier (France). 14. Silver and gilded bronze necklace by Cesare Paciotti (Italy).
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Creatures of the Deep
One of the more whimsical trends for this summer season involves creatures of the deep, with charming seahorses leading the charge.
At the water’s edge, we also find frogs, turtles, and other forms of marine life.
1. Opal, diamond, and gold turtle brooch by Cristofol for Marchak (France). 2. Fantasy fish brooch in sapphires, pearls, diamonds, and gold by Autore (Australia). 3. Octopus ring in white gold and diamonds by Scavia (Italy). 4. Sapphire, tourmaline, and diamond frog pins by Goldiaq (India). 5. White gold and diamond frogs resting on a lily pad ring in gold and tsavorite by MVee (Hong Kong). 6. Gold, sapphire, and diamond fish pendant by Rodney Rayner (England).
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7. Gold, garnet, and diamond crab pendant by Nafco (USA). 8. Whimsical marine life charm bracelet by Aaron Basha (USA).9. Sapphire, diamond, and pink gold seahorse by Pierez Design (Italy). 10. Secret Duo Amphitrite” watch in pink gold with princess, round, and baguette cut diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels (France). 11. Gown with fish motifs by Leila Hafzi S/S 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 12. Diamond, enamel, and gold fish rings by Porrati (Italy). 13. Sapphire, diamond, and gold starfish brooch by AVeVA (France). 14. Baroque pearl embellished with gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Mario Buzzanca (Italy).
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“In this erratic and critical economic period,” states Opera’s co-founder, Massimo Zerbini, “when so many companies are afraid to invest in developing and creating solid relationships with customers, Opera Jewels is strengthening its commitment with presence, support, and innovation. Our goal is to become—for every customer—an important strategic partner in their success.”
Founded in 2003 by Massimo Zerbini and Andrea Medri, Opera Jewels was born on the beautiful Caribbean island of St. Martin and is now based in Miami Beach, Florida. The two founders knew that to differentiate themselves, they needed to be truly innovative—not just in the way they approach business, but with the brands they would represent. Their search led them to Valente Milano, and in 2004, Opera Jewels became the exclusive distributor for this highly creative Italian brand.
“Valente’s jewelry has similar qualities of artistic spirit and refinement that reflect Opera’s philosophy,” Zerbini explains. “It is the perfect match.” Opera Jewels put Valente in the spotlight and helped
Opera Jewels The sounds of successLike the magnificence of a Puccini aria, Opera Jewels radiates with passion, elegance, and innovation. While so many distributors struggle to stay alive, this six-year-old company is soaring to new heights.
By Diana S. Zimmerman, Special Features Editor
I n d u s t r y F o c u s
Valente Milano’s Aeterna choker made of fancy coloured and white diamonds and 18K gold, winner of the prestigious 2008 town & country award in the Haute couture category.
sapphire, diamond, and 18K white and pink gold necklace and ring by Iosi.
Massimo Zerbini, co-founder of opera Jewels.
Gold, enamel, and diamond bangles from the “Images from India” collection by nouvelle Bague.
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it achieve worldwide status as a contemporary couture jewelry brand. With Zerbini’s strategic focus on brand positioning and strong distribution channels, demand for Valente has skyrocketed.
“Our strategy underlines Opera’s commitment as a solid financial investor, even during this recessionary economic phase,” Zerbini insists. “It puts the emphasis on marketing, distribution, and staff to build brand awareness and equity.” Without question, Opera Jewels is responsible for much of Valente’s newfound success. In 2008, at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, the brand won the “Town and Country Couture Award.” Always the visionary, Zerbini’s precise positioning of the brand’s unique style, as well as placing a renewed emphasis on the intrinsic value of Italian craftsmanship, has been win-win for both companies.
“Equally as important to our success,” he adds, “is our ability to find and work with the finest jewelry retailers.” This master marketer’s goal includes a threefold plan: “First, to work closely with each retailer; second, to help each retailer develop its business; and third, to support our retailers with the highest degree of customized service,” he explains.
Zerbini believes that this philosophy is a key factor in the company’s remarkable success, and one that will continue to allow it to attract and benefit other high-end brands. In March of 2009, Opera began working with the prestigious DIT Group for the distribution and marketing of Stefan Hafner, Nouvelle Bague, IoSi, and Porrati in North and South America, as well as the Caribbean. “We are very proud of this important new partnership,” he states.
Another important new partnership for Opera Jewels is with the jewelry line of couture fashion designer John Galliano, whose jewelry is made in collaboration with Valente. “We are very proud to work closely with one of the icons of fashion,” says Zerbini. “We believe that this collaboration will extend the creativity and research with precious metals and stones to develop even more unique jewelry collections.”
With a philosophy that is as passionate, elegant, and innovative as Puccini’s music, Opera Jewels is redefining the sounds of success, and Massimo Zerbini is the perfect marketing maestro to make it happen. (www.operajewels.com)
sapphire, diamond, and 18K gold “In Fiore” ring by stefan Hafner.
Pendant made of 18K gold, sapphires, diamonds, and jet in the “dagger” collection by John Galliano.
sapphire, pearl, diamond, -and 18K gold “Etoile” necklace by Porrati.
33
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It is quite understandable that words such as “low expectations,” “difficult,” “pessimistic,” “unprecedented,” and “unsettled times” were on the lips of exhibitors in the jewellery halls at BaselWorld 2009. But at the same time, those who came to showcase their latest wares were also “hopeful,” expressing their “optimism” that the global economic meltdown would resolve itself sooner than later.
By the numbersWhen the show closed its doors eight days later, on April 2, a total of 93,900 visitors from across the globe had crossed its turnstiles—a 12 percent decline from the record number of 106,800 that the fair attracted in 2008. Exhibitor numbers were down a little over 6 percent at 1,952 this year compared to the 2087 that came to the last edition. Given the times, however, these numbers were not totally unexpected.
The world’s leading watch and jewellery trade show, BaselWorld opened its doors on March 26 under a cloudy, cold, and rainy sky. The dreary weather seemed to reflect the initial mood of both exhibitors and visitors. Yet,as the week progressed, patches of blue showed through the clouds, a fitting symbol of the mixed results at this important fair.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
F A I R F A R E & F A S H I O N
Gemstone and diamond earrings by Brumani (Brazil).
Pink gold and diamond ring by Daniel K (USA).
Gemstone and diamond rings by Breguet (Switzerland). Faceted square pearls and gold rings by Louis Golay (Switzerland).
BaselWorld 2009 Mixed results
36
Diamond, gold, and enamel ring by Magerit (Spain).
On a purely anecdotal note, it was clear that the watch halls were busier than the jewellery halls—again understandable since the jewellery sector has been hard hit by the recession and the pending bankruptcies of a number of U.S. retailers.
Yet, despite the lower visitor numbers this year, many jewellery brands informally reported “better than expected” results and promising new contacts—welcome blue skies in the economic gloom and doom. Some even reported doing “great business” as buyers sought unusual or more affordably priced designs and collections for their stores.
Sylvie Ritter, Show Director, drew a positive conclusion from the fi nal results, “BaselWorld 2009 has shown that the watch and jewellery industry is facing up to this diffi cult economic situation in an extremely constructive way. The show has successfully given the watch and jewellery industry new momentum and, as a result, business has been boosted.”
Designs for the timesMany jewellery designers are facing the challenges of the current economic slump with a variety of new innovations and products. One major example is the increased number of lightweight designs, as new technologies permit the creation of hollow and wire pieces, while laser cutting offers solutions for open work. These often give a bigger but stylish look for a smaller price.
Another trend is the increased use of “alternative” metals such as titanium and wood to create original and contemporary styles by such high-end brands as Zydo, Roberto Coin, Alfi eri & St John, and Stephen Webster, among others.
Sliced rough diamonds, faceted white and black diamonds, and pearls make up this “Fire and Ice” necklace by Autore (Australia).
“Capri Plus” bracelet in yellow gold with wood and diamonds by Roberto Coin.
Emerald and diamond “Bovary” earrings by Zydo (Italy).
Pearl and diamond ring by Utopia (Italy).
Diamond “Art Deco” braceletby Messika (France).
Gold and diamond “Barcelona” pendant by Manoel Bernardes (Brazil).
37
F A I R F A R E & F A S H I O N
With high gold prices, many brands have brought silver into the spotlight. As one prominent designer mused, “It’s not the metal so much as the design that is important.”
Circles to StilettosIn terms of styles, many trend directions were evident this year at BaselWorld. Necklaces continue to be long and loopy, with lots of links or strands of pearls, while haute joaillerie pieces dripped in diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. The earring was a perennial favourite in all sorts of shapes and sizes, in plain metal or embellished with diamonds and gemstones, and styles ranged from small studs to modified chandeliers and slinky stilettos, without forgetting the ever-popular circular hoops. Speaking of circles, this was one of the more prominent trend directions that was displayed in earrings as well as pendants and rings. In terms of rings, they included small metal bands to pieces that combined large semi-precious centres with precious accents in all colours, passing by highly stylized organic forms in a variety of materials.
Flowing organics contrast with edgy sharpnessThe organic look continued to gain in popularity as seen in the collections of Jewellery Theatre and Manoel Bernardes, as did textured pieces in all forms and metals. A number of brands paired rose-cut diamonds and other gemstones with a variety of textures and metals. The edgy look was epitomized by French couturier John Galliano, who launched his jewellery collection at BaselWorld last year, as well as by designer, Cesare Paciotti, whose pieces were introduced this year.
Gemstone “Flowers” ring by Palmiero (Italy).
Sapphire and diamond “Atlantic” pendant by Jewellery Theatre (Russia).
Silver necklace by Cesare Paciotti (Italy).
Gemstone and diamond “Dagger” pendant by John Galliano (France).
Textured yellow gold and rose-cut “Gardenia” diamond ring by Carrera y Carrera (Spain).
Amethyst and diamond “Aphrodite” earrings by Casato (Italy).
Black sapphire and white diamond rings by Al Coro (Germany).
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Elements of nature Right in time for summer, the marine motif was one of the major trends at this year’s BaselWorld. From frogs to fish and from coral to crustaceans, the aquatic motif ranged from simple gold designs to stunning gem-set pieces. Autore’s Oceania collection featured gem-encrusted reproductions of shells, algae, and even fantasy fish, while Stephen Webster created fighting fish in tinted titanium along with other life under the sea. Seahorses were one of the more popular marine motifs and could be found at Pierez Italia, among others.
Nature in its floral form was a ubiquitous favourite. Delicate gemstone flower rings were presented by a number of brands, including Carrera y Carrera and Palmiero. Another popular trend depicted the elements, as exemplified in the stylized “Fire and Ice” collection by Autore and the “Snow” creations by Favero.
Primary coloursColours in all shades and hues could be seen, although purple was the couleur du jour, as the fashion world’s love affair with this complex colour was translated into jewellery. Delicate shades of amethyst were combined with diamonds and other gems by a number of brands such as Casato in its “India” and “Aphrodite” lines, while Annamaria Cammilli used lilac agate in her purple creations. Yellow and orange gemstones were also prominent, especially citrine, sapphire, and garnet.
Although black represents all the colours combined and white is the absence of all colour, the contrasting combination of the two non-colours was one of the strongest trends at this year’s show. Black and white diamonds were most often paired together, while some
Pearl and diamond “Ballerina” ring by Schoeffel (Germany).
Diamond and gemstone ring by Luca Carati (Italy).
Lilac agate and diamond pendant by Annamaria Cammilli (Italy).
Tsavorite, peridot, garnet, and diamond “Sortilège” ring by Gay Frères (France).
Titanium, sapphire, and diamond “Jewels Verne” brooch by Stephen Webster (England).
White gold and diamond “Butterfly” ring by Leon Hatot (Switzerland).
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jewellers used black sapphires or onyx with white agate or diamonds. Pearls also lent themselves well to the contrast of black and white, as did enamel.
Other eventsBaselWorld has also become a venue for events and conferences that have a significant bearing on the industry. Two presentations were conducted this year dealing with the issues of socially and environmentally responsible practices in the jewellery sector. First, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) launched its certification system and explained the process to exhibitors, attendees, and the media. The RJC is open to all in the gold, diamond, jewellery, and watch supply chain who are willing to adhere to the RJC’s Code of Practices and submit to RJC-approved third party auditing. A few days later, the Rapaport Fair Trade Conference was held to address the impact of the global economic crisis on the diamond and jewellery trade and to discuss Fair Trade practices within the industry.
The Israel Diamond Institute (IDI), under the leadership of managing director Eli Avidar, kicked off its “Together Works” campaign, a strategic marketing program aimed at demonstrating the Israeli diamond industry’s commitment to its international trading partners. The “Together Works” program includes print and online advertising in leading trade publications and websites as well as an exclusive B2B service for IDI partners in the United States, Israel’s largest diamond market. (www.israelidiamond.co.il)
F A I R F A R E & F A S H I O N
Gemstone and diamond pendant by Waskoll (France).
Woven gold bracelets by The Fifth Season (Italy).
Diamond and sapphire “Hello Kitty” pendant by Enlightened/Swarovski Elements (Austria).
Black and white diamond ring by Noah (Spain).
Gold “Casual” earrings by FR Hueb (Brazil).
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Visitor surveyAccording to BaselWorld officials, a survey of buyers indicated that three-quarters rated the 2009 edition of the show as either good or excellent. As many as 78 percent of visitors in 2009 stated that “BaselWorld is a must.” About 68.1 percent of those who came to BaselWorld were from overseas (compared with 63.6 percent in 2008), and 71 percent of those visitors questioned confirmed that they intend to visit the show next year. The main goal of their visit to the watch and jewellery show was to gain an overview of the market. This objective was followed by networking, customer care, meeting new clients, and information gathering about market innovations.
The next edition of BaselWorld will be held March 18 to 25, 2010. (www.baselworld.com)
Emerald and diamond suite by Staurino (Italy).
Emerald and diamond ring by Stefan Hafner (Italy).
Gemstone and dianmond brooch by Ferraris (Italy).
Diamond and emerald ring by Stenzhorn (Germany).
F A I R F A R E & F A S H I O N
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Silver, gold, and garnet bracelet by Gurhan (USA).
Cut-out silver and onyx pendant by Brosway (Italy).
White gold and diamond “Snow” ring by Favero (Italy).
Faceted crystal and gold “Facettes” pendant by Baccarat (France).
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F A I R F A R E & F A S H I O N
Given the state of the global economy, expectations were low for the fair’s organizers as well as for its 450 exhibitors, but on March 24, at the conclusion of the four-day event, they all drew a collective sigh of relief. Visitor numbers remained largely unchanged from last year, the level of orders was promising, and an agreement was signed between the trade fairs of Vicenza, Valenza, and Arezzo for the development of a national jewellery system and the harmonization of exhibitions.
“Beyond every expectation,” said Giovanni Tricca, President of the Centro Promozioni e Servizi, the company that organizes OroArezzo, “we were able to stop a practically inevitable fall in visitor numbers given the extremely delicate state of the international jewellery market. The number of visitors, more than 7,500 from 73 countries, was substantially the same as that for the last edition—an exceptional result, particularly in the light of the results for the other important trade fairs. We are especially proud of the fact that these results were achieved during the 30th edition of OroArezzo.”
Arezzo holding its ownTricca was also proud of the fact that gold and jewellery exports from the Arezzo region held up in 2008, showing a 0.2 percent increase over the previous year, while exports from Italy’s other main jewellery districts—Alessandria and Vicenza—reported decreases of 16.2 percent and 13.6 percent, respectively.
The figures for Arezzo are due mainly to exports to the United Arab Emirates, which for some time has been the main client of the Tuscan district. The UAE increased purchases by 30.8 percent in 2008 and by more than 43.1 percent in the last trimester. Exports to Turkey were also positive—up 9.9 percent despite a decrease of 15.4 percent between October and December. On the other
The International Gold, Silver, and Jewellery Exhibition held in the picturesque Tuscan city of Arezzo had more to celebrate than its 30th anniversary this past March. OroArezzo seemed to signal a break in the downward spiral of visitor attendance that has plagued other international jewellery trade shows.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
OrOArezzOSigns of Confidence
“Princess” necklace in yellow and white gold spheres made of gold sheets with glazed and diamond-cut finishing by Daniela Coaro.
Lacy earrings and necklace made of ruthenium and silver by Daveri.
“Plissé” necklace in pink gilded silver and fossil coral spheres, made from pleated sheets and flex-tubing by Sem-Ar.
Slender gold bracelet by Superoro.
48
hand, the decline in exports to the United States appears nearly unstoppable, with a decrease of 36.9 percent for 2008, and a slide of 43.5 percent in the last quarter alone. Overall, however, the trend in 2008 for Arezzo, which counts 1,413
gold and jewellery companies, showed production down by 9.9 percent, while revenue was down by
8.1 percent, according to the Arezzo Chamber of Commerce.
New strategies In order to stay ahead of low-cost labour centres that copy Italian design, manufacturers are producing several new collections a year. Also, to remain competitive, many small to medium companies are working together to help reduce labour costs, maximize marketing, and provide volume for big buyers. A number of companies in Arezzo are also becoming very creative in the design of their pieces, including the use of more coloured gemstones and pearls in addition to offering a bigger and bolder look.
Innovation and designIn response to the current gold dilemma, more companies are crafting lightweight, filigree, hollow, and electroform pieces in all sizes and shapes, as well as cut-out designs, thus offering a larger look for a smaller price. But, as one designer mused, “It is not so much the high price of gold that is so problematic as it is the level of its fluctuations.” As a gold-chain manufacturing centre, Arezzo produces chains that are on the cutting edge of style. Unlike the chains of yesteryear, the links of today are very design-oriented and come in a variety of combinations, shapes (disks, ovals, hearts, circles, hollow, and solid), and textures—matte, satin, scratched, and hammered. New conceptual interpretations in shapes and materials were also apparent throughout the show. In terms of metals, yellow and pink gold were top performers, while innovative pieces in bronze, brass, silver, titanium, and steel showed a great deal of creativity. Designers also used other materials such as wood, Murano glass, rubber, leather, enamel, pearls, and coloured gemstones.
The use of colour has become more prevalent in the last few years in pieces seen at OroArezzo. As an example, many of Artlinea’s collections pair amethyst with other gemstones set in gold to create energetic and organic designs. Marta Maelstri, sales and marketing manager, explained that the company’s goal is to create elegant pieces that evoke lots of colour and movement. Falcinelli, which was founded in 1968 with a focus on diamonds, now makes designs with a variety of gemstones, especially A view of Arezzo’s centre. This region in
Tuscany is home to more than 1400 gold jewellery producing small and medium enterprises. (Photo: Andrea Barghi, APT Arezzo Archives)
Ring in amethyst, gold, diamonds, and enamel by Artlinea.
Textured gold earrings by Giante.
“Harmony” suite made of electroformed yellow gold with black and white enamel by New Line.
49
F A I R F A R E & F A S H I O N
“Galaxy” rhodium-plated necklace and bracelet with gilded silver, crystals, polished chains and spheres by Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar.
amethyst and citrine paired with diamond pavé, to give a bold and dynamic look. According to Laura Falcinelli, whose brother Fabrizo is the designer, the company has also started creating exotic lines of silver jewellery aimed at very fashion-conscious younger consumers.
Première designsWhile known primarily as a volume show where jewellery is sold by the kilogram, OroArezzo also hosted the classic Première designer event, now in its 18th year, sponsored by the Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena. Focusing on design, the event offered buyers the opportunity to preview the stylistic trends and technological innovations of Italian jewellery in terms of products that will be offered for sale later this year. Première also proved to be a testing ground for jewellery designers, as a selection of the nine best pieces—based on design, practicality for manufacture, and saleability—was made by a panel composed of specialist jornalists representing the most important international jewellery publications.
The 60 companies that entered the Première competition collectively displayed a creative use of gold in all its colours—yellow, red, rose, white, and chocolate—as well as silver, a reflection of the current global economic crisis. Some also used gold-plating or gold combined with metals such as ruthenium. Also seen in the entries were enamel, colourful gemstones, Swarovski crystals, and cubic zirconia. The creativity of the companies reflected an innovative use of modern technology combined with the skill of traditional craftsmanship, which
could be seen in the surfaces, such as diamond-finished, satin-effect, and striated to create a scratched effect with chromatic contrasts. It could also be seen in the lace effects, in laser etching, and in soldering
to strengthen pieces created from threads of metal as fine as a strand of hair.
The nine “Best in Show” winners were Condito (Torre del Greco), Daniela Coaro (Vicenza), and Daveri (Vicenza) while the others—Jessica, New Line, Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar, PVZ, Sem-Ar, and UnoAerre—were all from Arezzo. Images of the winning pieces are shown on these pages. Ending its 30th edition on a note of cautious confidence, OroArezzo proved itself once again to be an important destination for affordable yet quality Italian jewellery. (www.oroarezzo.it)
“Golden Lace” ring and earrings made from laser-cut yellow gold sheets by PVZ.
Yellow gold ring with Australian baroque pearl by Condito. Bracelet, and ring in gold with coloured pavé
sapphires by Jessica (Designed by Fabio Arango).
“More and Less” necklace with silver, copper, cornelian, black onyx disks, and polished chains by UnoAerre.
50
S U C C E S S S T O R I E S
“Jewellery is all about finding one’s personal style,” muses Lou Guarino. “The latest trend may simply not be right for everybody.” With this in mind, Lou and his wife Veronica, owners of Pittsburgh-based Louis Anthony Jewelers, have always nurtured the concept of finding what works for their clients on a more intimate level. “We listen to what they say and take into consideration their interests and lifestyle when personalizing their experience at our store.” This attention to detail and warm customer service has played a large role in the store’s success. Customers are greeted by name and, if they are new, are always introduced to either Veronica or Lou, and made to feel like an established patron.
Louis Guarino founded Louis Anthony Jewelers in 1990 after leaving his position as a top salesperson for a large retail store. “Fortunately for me, I did not know that it
should matter that the country was in a recession at that time,” says Guarino. Taking their savings of $10,000, Lou
found a 900-square-foot location in a freestanding building. Enlisting the help of Veronica, he went to work. She handled the marketing and advertising while Lou, a graduate gemmologist, managed the buying and selling. Lou’s years in the industry had provided him with the vendor and client relationships that he needed to get started. Rather than gearing the business plan around designer jewellery, which was still in its infancy at that time, the pair founded the store on the philosophy that they
wanted to provide clients with a luxury experience but without the attitude.
Despite the recession, the store prospered. In 2000, Louis Anthony Jewelers moved into a 3,500-square-foot store complete with marble floors and Roman columns,
When Louis Guarino, Jr began his career in the jewellery industry at age 18, he had no idea that, in just nine short years, he would own his own successful store and have
acquired a well-earned reputation as one of the nation’s top jewellers.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
Louis Anthony JeweLersFinding one’s Personal style
Louis Anthony Jewelers, located in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
The main showroom, decorated during the holiday period, features designer jewellery, watches, and giftware.
Lou and Veronica Guarino, owners of Louis Anthony Jewelers.
52
later expanding it to 6,500 square feet. Another 2,000-square-foot addition in the fall of 2008 epitomizes the comfort and luxury that has always been the Guarino’s goal. Flatscreen TVs with heavy gold frames grace the walls and rotate images of designer jewellery, store events, and even family photos. A store lounge features a wet bar and a conference room for vendor meetings and private client viewings.
The main focus, however, when a customer enters the store, is the dazzling array of jewellery. Expertly displayed and illuminated using eco-conscious LED and metal-halide lighting, the selections are tastefully presented to showcase each piece. Lou always seeks out the unique and focuses on carrying jewellery that can withstand the test of time in terms of quality, individuality, and style, thereby ensuring his customers long-term value for their investment.
Colour has always been one of Lou’s favourite categories. One vendor in particular, Valente Milano, stands out among the many designers featured in the store for the brand’s ability to integrate coloured stones into expressive and artistic wearable pieces of art. Being Italian himself, Lou has always appreciated the romance and spirit of Italy. “Valente Milano incorporates function, with their flexible multi-coloured sapphire bangles, and form, with their bold use of rose gold and unusual cut gemstones, into their jewellery,” Lou explains. Each new collection is anxiously awaited and never fails to excite Lou and Veronica and their discerning clientele.
Word of mouth is one of the major sources of new clients, but Veronica also believes in the power of the Internet, so last November she launched a dynamic new
website. “Since today’s consumers receive the majority of their information from the Internet,” she says, “the site was designed to inform customers about the industry, as well as the possibility for e-commerce.” A Louis Anthony blog is also in the works.
Other marketing efforts involve vendor co-op billboards and magazine ads, as well as a campaign that features the couple. “Ultimately, we are the brand,” she insists. “We can have all of the designers in the world, but people have to buy Louis Anthony first.”
Louis Anthony Jewelers routinely features in-store and light-hearted promotions.
For a recent “Rat Pack” event, the flatscreen TVs presented an array of photos of the infamous Pack along with live impersonators and signature cocktails. “The sales staff
even got into the mood with hairstyles and clothing that reflected the time
period,” adds Veronica.As if the store did not keep them busy enough, the
Guarino’s are active in a number of local charities, giving back to their community. Lou sits on the board of TELI, an early intervention program for children with physical and learning challenges, and Veronica is a board member of The 25 Club, an organization that raises funds for the neonatal intensive care unit at Magee Women’s Hospital. Other Pittsburgh charitable endeavours include the Children’s Hospital, Juvenile Diabetes Association, and the Spina Bifida Association.
It is clear that both Lou and Veronica Guarino not only help their clients to find their personal style, but these two success stories have found it for themselves in Louis Anthony Jewelers. (www.louisanthonyjewelers.com)
In addition to a large bridal assortment, Louis Anthony Jewelers also has a bridal registry, and carries a selection of gifts for the wedding party.
Middle Photo: A sapphire and diamond bracelet by Valente Milano, one of the successful brands carried by Louis Anthony Jewelers.
The lounge also features tableware and comfortable seating.
53
Managing Director Philippe MaillardEditor-in-Chief Cynthia Unninayar • [email protected]
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Senior Vice President, Central Services Mary Kay SustekVice President, Licensing Howard Appelbaum
Vice President, Manufacturing & Distribution Jennifer GregoVice President, Audience Marketing Joanne Wheatley
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AAaron Basha 31Al Coro 38Alpilex 41Andreoli 3Annamaria Cammilli 40Artlinea 49Autore 30, 37 AVeVA 31B Baccarat 44Bapalal Keshavlal 21, 28Bergio 20Bielka 24Breguet 36Breuning 20Brosway 44Brumani 36Bruner 24, 26Buccellati C4Bucherer 18Bunz 27C Carrera y Carrera 8, 9, 38Cartier 12, 29Casato 11, 25, 38Cento/Roberto Coin 29Cesare Paciotti 29, 38Cherie Dori 26 Color Story 24Condito 50Cristofol for Marchak 30D Damiani 10Daniel K 27, 36Daniela Coaro 48Daveri 48David Lin 25, 20DeGrisogono 27, 16E, F, GEnlightened/Swarovski 29, 42, 43Eurostar 34, 35Faber Castell 16, C3 Favero 44Ferraris 25, 44Fillner 24FR Hueb 42Gay Frères 40Georg Jensen 29 GIA 51Giante 49GJEPC 45GL Paris 29 Glamrock 13Goldiaq 30 Green G. 18Gumuchian 27 Gurhan 10, 44H, I, J, K, LH.Stern 10, 26Intercolor 46, 47IoSi 27, 32
Jaeger LeCoultre 16Jessica 50 Jewellery Theatre 38Jewelmer 18John Galliano C1, 14, 15, 33, 38Joïa 18, 22 Leo Pizzo 28 Leon Hatot 40 Lois Hill 19Louis Golay 28, 36Luca Carati 40M, NMagerit 36Manoel Bernardes 37Marco Bicego 27Mario Buzzanca 31Mathon Paris 18, 23 Mattia Cielo 24Messika 37MVee 30 Nafco 31 New Line 49Noah 42Nouvelle Bague 32Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar 50O, P, Q, RPalmiero 28, 38Picchiotti 5, 20Pierez Italia 31Porrati 31, 33PVZ 50Rahaminov 27Repossi 10Roberto Coin 25, 37, 56Rodney Rayner 30 Rosato 29Rosy Blue 39S, TSamra 24Scavia 30Schoeffel 40Sem-Ar 48Sethi Couture 26 Staurino 44Stefan Hafner 33, 44Stenzhorn 44Stephen Webster 10, 40SuperOro 48Tamara Comolli 26 The Fifth Season 7, 42Trésor 28U, VUmane 18, 23 UnoAerre 50Utopia 37Valente Milano C2, 1, 16, 32, 52Van Cleef & Arpels 10, 31Vianna 25W, X, Y, ZWaskoll 42Zalemark 17Zydo 37
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I think the economists have managed to very well brutalize business and our future.
I believe that, in this particular time, people want to change their attitudes by partying, eating more than ever, to express the joy of life, and go back to their youthful memories, where the night was not meant for sleeping, but to really enjoy themselves.
I truly feel that this is the Century of Women. We will need their capabilities to go forward as they are undisputedly able to establish the new platform for the future. I personally love them, as they are more intelligent than ever, more sophisticated, but most of all, they are collectors of sentiments.
I have my own theory and we definitely need to go forward. One way is to take inspiration from sports, where athletes together create the spirit of the winning team. In this case, what better than rugby? The only way to win is “going forward” until you reach the touchdown. Warriors, gentlemen, and the finest athletes playing together to achieve Victory.
So, we can add to the words, “Yes we can,” the words “And we must.”
We have a wonderful team, with different strategies, and one of them, essential today, is a new Creativity, which is not connected to economic value but only relates to jewellery that has class and style regardless of price. A strategy where we can play and create a new world, as the desires are different, the feelings are different, and therefore creativity will have to be different.
Traditions will remain and can’t be taken away from us. Our cultural influences, our manifold inspirations, and our versatility will always be part of us. The only thing we must achieve is to create sophisticated, ethical Luxury. We understand fashion, we participate through the emotions of the moment. We understand that life should be lived differently through happiness, and may I remind you once more that jewellery creates this sentiment.
In the end, this is only a small personal story, but the winners will be those who are capable of re-conquering the final consumer’s confidence at the point of sale. And be assured that we will try tremendously hard to help you in achieving this challenging goal. This is the beginning of another new game.
The ex-sportsman, probably trainer,
Roberto Coin
f r e e l y s p e a k i n g
A Few Words from RobeRto Coin
“Me stesso” bracelets in gold and diamonds by roberto Coin.
roberto Coin
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ALTHEA_NECKLACE_GREY_205x265 (1).ai 13/04/2009 19.51.58
The barrel of the new Graf von Faber-Castell Intuition line is shaped from a single piece of precious resin. The platinum-plated metal parts bring out the gleaming
black of the barrel and cap to brilliant effect.
Pure elegance
Each 18-carat bicolor gold nib is “run in” by hand.
For more information and a list of our authorized dealers please visit www.Graf-von-Faber-Castell.com Faber-Castell USA, Inc. • 9450 Allen Drive • Cleveland, Ohio 44125 • 800-311-8684
Visit us at COUTURE • Lafite Ballroom • Booth 100 • May 28 - June 2, 2009 • Wynn Las Vegas
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