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Keeping up with Colour

Cynthia UnninayarEditor-in-ChiefTrends & Colours

Cynthia

Having started with our re-introduced Trends & Colours format last winter—our annual trends tracker guide—we continued with the Spring/Summer colour and trends story in our Spring issue. Now, in our Summer issue, we look at the colours for Fall/Winter 2010, as predicted by Pantone and used by a number of fashion designers, as well as examples

of fine jewellery that complement these colours. In terms of trends, a more detailed look at some of the top twelve trends

listed in our our annual trends tracker guide is also presented here, namely floral designs, organic creativity, the allure of pink

gold, and jewellery that sends a message.

Clearly, colour is not just for fashion and jewellery. It is an important component of nearly everything in our lives. A powerful form of commu-

nication, colour can influence emotions, provoke the senses, and even affect our health. It is also the driving force in most consumer decisions. According to

marketing psychologists, colour accounts for 60 percent of the acceptance or rejection of an object within only a few seconds. In another domain, colour on the walls can make a person comfortable and relaxed or look for the nearest exit. In this regard, how important is it to paint the walls of your store with warm colours that are invit-ing and relaxing, while offering a certain level of vibrancy and interest? Probably, very important.

Keeping our pulse on the marketplace is essential for reporting on the trends and colours of fine jewellery. In this regard, see our report from BaselWorld, one of the essential gathering places for designers from around the world. In a dramatic reversal from last year, the ambiance at this international show was generally upbeat. Yet it was clear that the industry has undergone some tranformations over the year. Today’s markets have clearly been affected by the recession—no surprise there—and research indicates that consumers are more price-conscious than ever before, something that many jewellery designers have not failed to notice. Consumers are also more careful with what they purchase, preferring to forgo fleeting fads in favour of more classic items that represent real value. Value is also seen in going green in more than just a colour sense. The movement towards products made with eco-friendly metals and gemstones, coming from ethical and sustainable mining practices, is alive and well and growing. This important topic is also the subject of several conferences at the sum-mer shows in Las Vegas.

And, speaking of Las Vegas, we look forward to seeing many of you there at the summer jewellery shows.

E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

Editor’s Letter02 Keeping Up With Colour

In the Press08 Who’s Wearing What and Other Jewels in the News

Cover Feature12 Stefan Hafner – The Quintessence of Italian Design

Colour Trends16 Colours for Fall 2010

Trends & Colours36 Imperial Purple38 Naturally Green40 Sunny Bright42 Eternal Blossom44 Rosy Pink46 Tantalizing Tanzanite48 Sending a Message50 Certified Organic 16

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Stephan Hafner

Colours for Fall

Sending a Message

Jewels in the News

CoverThe new Rosa Tattoo collection by Stefan Hafner comes in various colours composed of rose or white 18K gold set with diamonds and precious gemstones.

Cover Feature on page 12

www.stefanhafner.com

580 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10036 - [email protected] - www.assael.com

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Marketplace BaselWorld

Opera Omnia

Marketplace Bangkok

Elena Votsi

I N T H I S I S S U E

30Bastian

Profiles14 Opera Omnia – An Italian Masterpiece26 Jörg Heinz – Tying Up the Loose Ends28 Elena Votsi – Olympic Gold 30 Bastian Inverun – Ingenuus, Verum, Unicus32 James Kaya – Pushing the Limits34 Brüner’s – Elegant and Affordable Luxury52 Utopia Jewels – Harmony and Perfection54 Brosway – Ready for Summer56 Raffaela Mannelli – Tuscan Treasure58 Oroamalia – Florentine Enchantment

Must See’s in Vegas60 Winning Brands to Visit at Summer Shows

Marketplace62 BaselWorld – What a Difference a Year Makes!74 OroArezzo Concludes on a Positive Note 76 Optimism Reigns at Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair

Success Stories78 Leonardo Jewelers – It’s About Selling in the Right Product

80 Index - www.CIJintl.com

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Utopia

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Marketplace OroArezzo 74

I N T H E P R E S S

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Kwiat has partnered with renowned women’s golfer, Cristie Kerr to design an exclusive limited-edition collection in support of Cristie Kerr’s foundation “Birdies for Breast Cancer,” which is committed to increasing breast cancer awareness. Ten percent of all proceeds will go directly to benefit her foundation. The new Cristie Star Collection includes a pair of delicate diamond-drop earrings, as well as a pendant of the same design in two different sizes. Invoking the charitable connection, both pieces are set in 18K pink gold and accented with pink sapphires to represent the Birdies for Breast Cancer cause.

To celebrate having received a prestigious star on the Friends of Hollywood Walk of Fame, L’Oreal has partnered with Carelle to create three colourful compacts for the screen’s leading ladies. The three compacts are made in sterling silver and plated in a different colour 18K gold, which enhances the beauty of the amethyst or citrine gemstones and embodies the spirit of the award show for which it is exclusively made. Each of the three compacts showcases shooting stars encrusted with diamonds.

1. Stephanie Pratt from the TV series “The Hills,” wearing earrings made of a diamond cascade ending in a magnificent pearl drop, from the Classic Riviera Collection by Avakian.2. Mariah Carey, wearing 18k white gold and diamond Peacock earrings by Gumuchian, at the 12th annual Keeper of the Dream Awards held at the Sheraton Towers in New York City .3. Grammy nominated singer Ashanti wearing a gold and gemstone ring to the 52nd Annual Grammy Awards in Los Angeles, by Zorab Atelier de Creation.4. Sandra Bullock at the Academy Awards, wearing platinum and diamond earrings and a platinum and diamond bracelet from her personal collection by Neil Lane. 5. Charlize Theron at the Academy Awards, wearing platinum and diamond cluster earrings (17.25 carats), and a platinum and diamond bracelet by Harry Winston.6. Demi Moore at the Academy Awards, wearing platinum and diamond bracelet, platinum and diamond bracelet with crystals, platinum and diamond ring with a pearl, and a platinum and diamond hair clip by Van Cleef & Arpels. 7. Kate Winslet at the Academy Awards, wearing platinum and yellow diamond pendant (19 carats total), platinum and yellow diamond drop earrings (10 carats), and three platinum and yellow diamond bracelets by Tiffany & Co. 8. Penelope Cruz at the Academy Awards, wearing platinum diamond drop earrings (18 carats), and three platinum and diamond bracelets (51 carats total) by Chopard.

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The words Magic Touch, Dreamlike, Wonder, and Revelation have often been used to describe the jewellery created by master jeweller and designer Stefan Hafner over the years. The brand’s well-deserved reputation comes from the creation of a scintillating range of high-quality and high-design pieces imbued with festive glamour and splendour. Stefan Hafner’s diverse and dazzling array of designer collections are matched only by the multitude of inspirations from the brand’s team of creators who are endowed with skills as diverse as architecture, fashion, graphic design, theatre sets, and photography. With a passion for creativity on par with

their traditional skills in goldsmithing and stone-setting, these talented individuals work together in the brand’s factories in Valenza to create award-winning jewellery that can be described as the “New Classic.”

With its jewellery meeting the highest standards in design and manufacture, the brand has earned accolades from around the world. Among its notable recent achievements are the “Best Design in

Diamonds” prize from the American Jewellery Awards competition (three years in a row) and the “Best Design in Show” award by the Couture Design Collection in Las Vegas.This year, Stefan Hafner is introducing the new Promise, Rosa Tattoo, and Silhouettes collections. Combining the traditional skills of the goldsmith with a fresh approach, these jewels offer a design that is contemporary with an intrinsic lightness. Among the highlights of the Promise collection are various combinations of superb and sophisticated rings that feature white or rose 18K gold set with black and white diamonds, blue and pink sapphires, and other precious gemstones with a large stone crowning the ensemble. Alternating white or black diamonds also combine with coloured stones to give the pieces a touch of opulent diversity. With its new Rosa Tattoo collection, Stefan Hafner imbues its pieces with a note of playful whimsy. Evoking a real tattoo, these pendants come in various colours composed of rose or white 18K gold set with diamonds and precious gemstones such as coloured sapphires, rubies, and tsavorites. Rosa Tattoo is the perfect answer to those who want a tantalizing—yet temporary—tattoo next to their skin.

C O V E R F E A T U R E

Few names in the world of fine jewellery have evoked as much respect and admiration as that of Stefan Hafner. Today, the 43-year-old brand is presenting a number of new collections that evoke sophistication and elegance with an air of contemporary classicism.

By Rayan Innue

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IoSi “Bells” earrings in gold, diamonds, and tsavorites.

The brand takes a more emotional journey with its Silhouettes collection. One of the pieces in this line is the beautiful Bride pendant, made of white 18K gold, white and black diamonds, and pink sapphires—perfect for any wedding. For something a bit more fanciful, the demure Fairy in white gold with white and black diamonds will delight all those who are young and young-at-heart.A part of the Italy-based Blu Group, Stefan Hafner jewellery (along with Italian brands IoSi and Nouvelle Bague) is distributed in North America by Miami-based Opera Jewels. Founded in 2003 by Massimo Zerbini and Andrea Medri, Opera Jewels has shown itself to be exceptional, not just in the way the company approaches business, but with the brands and retailers. “In this erratic and critical economic period,” explains Massimo Zerbini, “when so many companies are afraid to invest in developing and creating solid relationships with customers, Opera Jewels is strengthening its commitment with presence, support, and innovation. Our goal is to become—for every customer—an important strategic partner in their success.” And partner it is, not only for its retailers, but also for the Stefan Hafner brand, the quintessence of Italian Design. (www.operajewels.com, www.stefanhafner.com)

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Nouvelle Bague “Mosaico” bracelets in gold, diamonds, and enamel.

It is said that a Stradivarius violin “sings as none have ever done before, with a clearer voice and greater volume, a pureness of tone that makes it seem almost alive.” Each violin is given a name, and is cherished by its fortunate owner. And so it can be said of Opera Omnia’s first jewellery collections—so expertly crafted that these pieces, too, seem to sing with a pureness of design and an expertise of craftsmanship that defy previous standards.From the beginning of this endeavour, Zerbini has played an essential role in the evolution of the Opera Omnia brand. He has assembled the finest artisans and designers to create a remarkable team that is focused on building a new, strong, and distinctive brand identity through a style and set of values that reflect the post-modern world of ultimate luxury. By incorporating precious

gems and only the highest quality materials, Opera Omnia is achieving a prestigious status for its superior design, stone quality, and superb

manufacturing. Opera Omnia’s first two collections can be described as having a strong emotional impact. The jewels feature dramatic colours

and uncommon shapes that enhance the subtleties between light and shadow. The Canouan line is inspired by the dream of a private, exclusive world surrounded by the splendid sea of the southern Antilles,

a refuge surrounded by pristine nature, a varied landscape of green hills, secluded bays, and white sandy beaches.

The second collection, Saba, magically takes a step back in time. It evokes an unspoiled landscape on a Caribbean island, and is a monument to Nature’s best, both above and below the ocean’s surface. Lively chromatic combinations of pink gold, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and tsavorite create natural echoes of this enchanted land.“At Opera Omnia, we pay great attention to even the slightest detail in crafting our jewellery,” explains Zerbini. “This helps to make the jewels unique.” As for the wearer of these original pieces, he describes the Opera Omnia woman as “an individual who is self-confident, dynamic, cosmopolitan, and very often a self-purchaser. She is proud to reveal the different aspects of her personality.”In terms of distribution, the brand has decided to work only with select retailers. Following the successful strategy of Opera Jewels, Opera Omnia will work closely with these stores to help develop business. The brand’s strategy and

P R O F I L E

Massimo Zerbini, like all great marketing talents, has immersed himself in the growth and evolution of the brands distributed by his company Opera Jewels. Today, he has created a new brand, Opera Omnia. As its name implies, it is an Italian masterpiece that utilizes the audacity of its aesthetic choices to elevate the artistry of Italian goldsmithing to unparalleled new heights

By Diana S. Zimmerman

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Shown on these pages are sketches of the new Opera Omnia jewellery collections, with the real pieces to be introduced at Couture

co-marketing activities for 2010-2011 are focused on three pillars: working closely with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the Opera Omnia brand with retailers’ final customers; organizing local events to enhance the importance of the brand, its brand image, and identity at the point of the sale.As part of Opera Omnia’s communication plan, the brand will use co-op marketing in local media suggested by retailers to promote its jewellery with final consumers as well as in retailers’ own catalogues, for example. In terms of other activities, it foresees sponsorship of, and participation in, trunk shows, parties, and other events. “For our best clients, we have allocated a certain marketing contribution based upon the retailer’s total annual turnover,” says Zerbini. Rarely does the jewellery industry experience such an amazing new offering, one that, like a Stradivarius, is destined to set new standards, not just for today, but for generations to come. Opera Omnia is truly an Italian masterpiece. (www.operajewels.com)

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Massimo Zerbini, co-founder of Opera Omnia.

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In the Trends & Colours Winter issue, our annual trends tracker guide, we talked about the top twelve trends in fine jewellery for 2010. Since colour is one of the major trends, we also included comments from fashion designers on

the use and importance of colour. In our Trends & Colours Spring issue, we continued the colour story for Spring/Summer 2010. In this issue, we offer a preview of the fashion colour scene for Fall 2010, as depicted in

Pantone’s Fashion Colour Report Fall 2010. “Building on the color palette from spring, this season’s offerings include innovative takes on fundamental basics, as well as transporting lively colors that conjure images of travel and adven-

ture, whether real or aspirational,” explains Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. And, of course, we offer examples of fashionable and colourful fine jewellery to go along with these ten basic colours.

By Cynthia Unninayar

C o l o u r T r e n d s

Peter Som, using Pantone’s Woodbine: Fashion and color are a pick-me-up. It’s time for happy clothes.

Yigal Azrouël, using Pantone’s Purple Orchid: It hasn’t really changed but has reinforced that what we design has to be special and individual. New rule? Don’t be afraid to try it.

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Mathon Paris

Gumuchian

Nikki Sedacca

Jolie B. Ray Designs

Yael Sonia

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Elie Tahari, using Pantone’s Golden Glow: There are really no specific rules for colours, it just depends what colours work best with a specific fabric or yarn.

Rachel Roy, using Pantone’s Endive: I am continuing to design for the modern, classic woman and always think of her when choosing colours. Of course, we are conscious of the economic conditions but that does not deter us from continuing to put out luxurious, beautiful clothing. My new fashion color rule for 2010? Have fun with colour, always!

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Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons, using Pantone’s Chocolate Truffle: Taking into consideration the current challenges facing today’s economy, I hope to inspire customers by offering vibrant colour hues that translate through time.

Nanette Lepore, using Pantone’s Lipstick Red: In current economic conditions colour is more important than ever. Incorpo-rating a few fresh colours into your wardrobe can revitalize and provide an array of potential new colour combinations to make getting dressed more exciting.

Alfieri & St. John

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All designs by Gumuchian @

Copyright 2009

The diamond studded prong collection designed by women for women

16 East 52nd Street - Suite 701New York, NY 10022

800-223-0774www.gumuchian.com

Vianna Brasil


Tadashi Shoji, using Pantone’s Lagoon: I tried to keep in mind that customers are buying more for longevity these days, so I didn’t choose colours that would go out of favour after one season. Also, I really tried to stay away from Black as I wanted to offer women some hints of fun and colour.

Erin Fetherston, using Pantone’s Living Coral: Colour is more important than ever. Colour is an expression of mood and emotion. I use colour to inspire and create positivity.

Mathon Paris

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VPL by Victoria Bartlett, using Pantone’s Oyster Gray: It drives you to be more creative. I like the idea of serenity and lustre that is subdued. I don’t like to abide by rules—it comes from the heart, but this collection is about tranquillity and calm.

Rebecca Taylor, using Pantone’s Rose Dust: The colour palette is more restrained to fit the need of the contemporary girl. New neutrals emerge with a touch of bright.

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The Achilles heel of fine jewellery has always been how to fasten the ends of a necklace. Reaching behind to open a clasp at the nape of the neck was awkward for its wearer, yet no one seemed to come up with the perfect solution. That is until 1974, when—after much contemplation and experimentation—a young German goldsmith came up with a revolutionary

idea. What if the clasp were not at the back but at the front of the necklace, at its centre? What if the function of the clasp were hidden inside a beautiful piece of jewellery? What if the design could be changed in a split-second?The ingenuity of Jörg Heinz’s clasp began with its function. The necklace’s wearer can open and close it simply by pressing and twisting the fastener. Its precise mechanism makes it easy to open, yet maintains the clasp securely closed. This invention was more than just a technical and design innovation. It was one of the world’s first variable systems for modern jewellery. These interchangeable pieces became design elements in their own right.Whether they feature pearls, gold, platinum, gemstones, or steel, Jörg Heinz’s clasps ensure that chains are easy to open, close, and transform. Each wearer can adapt her jewellery to match her outfit: sleekly simple for everyday wear, tastefully elegant for the business look, or opulently lavish for festive occasions.Since 1974, the family brand has steadily refined its capabilities, using a combination of cutting-edge technology and traditional savoir-faire to create beautiful new designs. Today, the firm’s founder has been joined by his sons Martin and Lars Heinz. “Our invention of the modern clasp has often been described as a milestone in the history of jewellery. Because it’s so easy to interchange, it offers unlimited creative vistas for form to follow function,” says Martin Heinz. The brand continues to unveil new collections such as the Mystery Sphere collection, which offers a new “twist” to design with mysterious spheres that have a tempting outer skin surrounding a precious interior.

The latest in the parade of innovative jewellery is the Magic Pendant. Each pendant, which can be clipped onto a chain or necklace, contains three different looks that the wearer can individually bring into view by means of a user-friendly rotating mechanism. South Sea and Tahitian pearls, diamond pavé, brilliant-cut diamond solitaires, midnight-black onyx, or warm red enamel make this piece of jewellery into a magical quick-change artist, one

that elegantly reflects Jörg Heinz’s slogan: Always different, but always me. Whether creating magical pendants or interchangeable clasps, the Jörg Heinz team can always figure out a way to tie up the loose ends. (www.joerg-heinz.com)

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Throughout the history of jewellery, designers have viewed the clasp, often a simple hook, as an unloved and often neglected necessity. That is, until 1974.

By T. R. Flora

P R O F I L E

THE “MAGIC“ SPHEREA PLAYFUL APPEARANCE CONCEALING PERFECT TECHNOLOGY. THE NEW "MAGIC PENDANT COLLECTION“: PRECIOUSQUICK-CHANGE ARTISTS CREATED BY JÖRG HEINZ. WWW.JOERG-HEINZ.COM | COUTURE SHOW BOOTH NO. 254

Elena Votsi is not only proud of the Olympic Games, but also takes pride in her country’s ancient past. “If you live in Athens, you walk on ancient streets. You see ancient sculptures. The Acropolis, for example, reminds

us that we have a great archaeological heritage,” muses this award-winning jewellery designer.

Pride in this heritage is one of the inspirations for her jewellery designs, many of which are sold in the gift shops

of such august institutions as the Acropolis Museum, Benaki Museum, the National Gallery-Alexandros Soutzos Museum, and the Cycladic Art Goulandris Museum, among others. But this trained artist and painter turned jewellery designer doesn’t just look to the past for ideas. “Sometimes, it comes from a picture, a movement, a feeling, a shape, the way the light hits an object in the morning sun, or even contemplating the universe,” explains Elena. Thinking about the heavens was certainly a source of inspiration for her award-winning golden spiral ring that won last year’s Couture Design Award in the “Best in the New-to-Couture” category for designers who exhibited for the first time at the prestigious Las Vegas show. “The spiral represents the life-giving elements of water and sunlight while the motion evoked by the 266 brilliants captures the unstoppable expansion of the cosmos,” she adds.On a more earthly level, Elena Votsi has taken part in major design exhibitions around the world with hand-made pieces that range from angular geometric shapes to voluminous spheres to colourful diamond, gemstone, and South Sea pearl pieces, all set in 18K gold. The men have not been left out either as can be seen in her collection of colourful cufflinks. Her design talents have also been recognized by some of the world’s most prominent fashion brands, among them Gucci where she worked for three years. Currently, her artistic creations are being sold in galleries and shops in Greece, of course, but her designs are attracting more and more attention in the USA, which is fast becoming her major market as more and more new stores welcome her high quality artistic designs; designs that reflect history, luxury and art; designs that are truly Olympic Gold. (www.elenavotsi.com)

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Couture Award-winning ring.

In 776 BC, the Olympic Games enjoyed their beginnings in ancient Olympia, as part of a religious festival in honour of the Greek god Zeus. Many centuries later, an artist and jewellery designer from modern Athens was chosen to redesign the Olympic medal. But her other remarkable creations would also make Zeus very proud.


P R O F I L E

Elena Votsi.

Elena Votsi’s redesign of the Olympic medal reflects the Greek character of the Games, with Nike of Paionios and the Panathenaic Stadium. Her design and signature will be on the medals for future Games.

The philosophy of Bastian Inverun can be summed up in three Latin words—Ingenuus, Verum, Unicus—that combine to give the term Inverun. Signifying

Noble, Genuine, and Unique, these words embody the values that have guided the company since 1974. A specialist in sterling silver jewellery,

the brand was also the first to launch silver jewellery set with diamonds more than 20 years ago, resulting in a very successful line that

continues to this day.From the very outset, Bastian Inverun has set a simple guideline that it follows faithfully: Designs that are in line with the latest trends but that are also made for eternity. The brand’s Spring/Summer 2010 collections offer a fashionable assortment of jewellery using only natural materials, including sterling silver, gold, genuine gemstones such as citrine, garnet, carnelian, chalcedony, and selected pearls. The Silver & Diamonds line stands out by

virtue of its innovative design work that skilfully combines classical forms and with cutting-edge modernity. The skilled craftsmanship,

high-quality fashioning and finishing, and imaginatively-cut gemstones combined with stylish settings make each individual piece a sparkling

little masterpiece. And, all of this comes with an affordable price tag.With its attractive price/value ratio, the strong marketing support it provides to retailers, and the highly comprehensive range of more than 100 new designs every season, it is clear why Bastian Inverun is well established in Europe and is moving rapidly into overseas markets such as the United States, Canada, New Zealand, and Australia. The company is not resting on its laurels, however, and continues to meet the market needs for today’s price-conscious consumer who wants trendy yet timeless pieces that are noble, genuine, and unique.

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Awarded the title of “Silver Jewellery Brand of the Year” for the past three years in its home country of Germany, Bastian Inverun’s reputation for quality sterling silver jewellery is quickly spreading around the world.

By T. R. Flora

P R O F I L E

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The designs of James Kaya are decidedly modern, where the fluid organic meets the urban mechanical to create unique and eye-catching rings, pendants, and earrings. With angular edges and accents that seem more reminiscent of nuts and bolts, many of his creations have an almost industrial look about them. Industrial, maybe, but the materials he uses are fine 18K gold, platinum, precious gemstones, diamonds, and pearls. Other designs, however, evoke a more fluid form with gentle curves and simple lines. All of his pieces testify to a desire to create elegant yet edgy jewellery that is stylishly precise and simple. “Simple designs may look easy,” Kaya muses, “but because of their simplicity, they need to be of the best quality since they leave no margin for error.”Most of Kaya’s pieces are one-of-a-kind, and are handcrafted by this classically trained

goldsmith. “It takes time and patience to produce high-quality jewellery,” he says, “but I refuse to mass produce because the personal aspect is lost when the designer does not participate in the actual creation process.”

James Kaya’s interest in jewellery design began when he was very young, ultimately leading him to pursue an apprenticeship in metalworking. As an accomplished designer and goldsmith, he now runs his own studio, Solair Jewelers, in Boston. Where do

his design ideas come from? “I draw my inspiration from infinite sources, including of course architecture and art, that let me combine the traditional qualities of fine jewellery with the best of modernism. My goal is to create pieces that are visually exciting with elegant simplicity.”

Kaya’s designs have won numerous awards, including the Saul Bell Award (three times), the American

Vision Award (two times), and various other accolades such as Designer of the Year from the International Jewelry Designers Guild. The winning pieces include a beautifully crafted platinum ring set with yellow sapphires and diamonds, an 18K gold rubellite and diamond pendant, a platinum tension-set

ring with yellow sapphires and diamonds, and many others.

When asked about the future, James Kaya says that he will continue designing while pushing the limits of fine jewellery. (www.jameskaya.com)

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“In today’s world, where every other design looks alike, I like to push the limits,” says James Kaya. And push the limits he does with highly creative, progressive, and edgy designs that are unlike any others.


P R O F I L E

For Brazilian brand Brüner, designing stylish and high quality jewellery has been its guiding principle for the last 44 years. With collections ranging from classic to contemporary to even exotic, the creative use of colourful Brazilian gemstones combined with diamonds and gold results in pieces that are eye-catching, fashionable, playful, and very importantly reflect the new versatile and affordable luxury that today’s consumers are looking for.For the Summer 2010 season, Brüner has created three new collections: Alegria, Lume, and Disco. “Alegria means joy and happiness,” explains Carla Brüner, co-owner. “Inspiration for this line comes from the fluid and graceful motions of a ribbon dancer. The precision synchronization of the ribbon and the choreography of the dance are evoked in this jewellery.” Another important characteristic of Alegria is the colour versatility of its pieces. “We wanted to create jewellery that would go with any situation, from casual day wear to elegant soirees.” To this end, the stones—amethyst, blue topaz, citrine, and prasiolite—are interchangeable, allowing customers to personalize their jewellery to match an outfit, and even the pieces themselves are transformable. An earring, for example, can be easily changed from an elegant dangle to a simple stud or hoop in a few seconds. The second line, Lume, signifying fire, features organic, abstract designs using gemstones with special cuts, to give an almost surreal effect. “Fire, the sacred symbol in almost every culture, imparts its mysticism to inspire the jewellery in our Lume line,” adds Carla. Lume uses gems such as cognac and champagne citrine, amethyst, prasiolite, and green gold quartz paired with diamonds and 18K gold. The third line, Disco, reminiscent of the exuberant rhythm of Brazilian youth plays on the colours of shimmering Brazilian gems combined with the brilliance of gold and diamonds. Colours for Disco range from the popular orange and yellow shades of citrine and quartz to the vibrant tones of blue topaz and amethyst. “The citrus colours continue to be popular for the summer months, while the blue and violet tones are more animated,” says Carla.With its bold and unique Brazilian expression, Brüner’s jewellery can be dressed up or dressed down, worn with an evening gown or with casual business attire, making it a perfect solution for today’s woman on the go who wants elegant and affordable luxury. (www.bruner.com.br)

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At the forefront of fashion, this creative jewellery brand captures the daring fun of Brazilian style and the bold colour of Brazilian gemstones in three new collections that are sensual, sophisticated with a touch of whimsy, and very importantly, affordable luxury for today’s lifestyles.


P R O F I L E

Elena Votsi.

1. Amethyst and diamond ring by Versace (Italy). 2. Ring in amethyst and diamonds by Alfieri & St. John (Italy). 3. Dress by Derek Lam. 4. Amethyst and gold bracelet by Nafco (USA). 5. Amethyst diamond, and tourmaline ring by Carelle (USA). 6. Amethyst and diamond ring by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 7. Amethyst and diamond ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland).

Associated with royalty and nobility, purple is also a favourite colour of Nature as can be seen in delicate orchids, violets, and lilacs. Among fine jewellers, these imperial shades are often represented

by amethyst, sapphire, and jade.

T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

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8. Pendant in gold and amethyst by Bellon (France). 9. Amethyst and diamond earrings by Magerit (Spain). 10. Amethyst, sapphire, and diamond ring by Falcinelli (Italy). 11. Amethyst, sapphire, and diamond ring by Mathon Paris (France). 12. Amethyst and diamond ring by Casato (Italy). 13. Amethyst watch by Swarovski (Austria). 14. Amethyst and diamond ring by Chimento (Italy). 15. Amethyst, sapphire, tsavorite, and diamond ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 16. Dress by Zac Posen.

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1. Peridot and diamond earrings by Erica Courtney (USA). 2. Tourmaline, peridot, and diamond earrings by Vianna (Brazil). 3. Peridot, gold, and pearl necklace by Bielka (USA). 4. Gemstone and gold ring by Danielle (Brazil). 5. Dress by Leila Hafzi. 6. Peridot, diamond, and sapphire ring by Julia Behrends (USA). 7. Tsavorite, diamond and onyx snake ring by Zorab Atelier de Création (Thailand). 8. Peridot, diamond, and gold pendant by James Kaya (USA).

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Coming in a variety of tonal colours, green is the colour of balance and harmony, and is believed by

some to contain the energies of Nature. In gemstones, green tones range from the yellowish hues of peridot and beryl to the more grassy shades of tourmaline,

tsavorite, jade, and emerald. Whatever the stone, they all evoke luscious green energy.

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9. Emerald and diamond “Peacock” earrings by Gumuchian (USA). 10. Necklace in Zambian emeralds, diamonds, and pearls, inspired by Gemfields’ collaboration with the World Land Trust’s Indian elephant protection project, by Allesio Boschi/Autore (Australia). 11. Tsavorite and diamond earrings by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 12. Tourmaline and diamond earrings by Goldesign (Brazil). 13. Green opal and gold “Zig Zag” ring by Umane (France). 14. Imperial jade and diamond brooch by David Lin Jades (USA). 15. Dress by Pamella Roland.

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1. Yellow and white diamond ring by Yael Designs (USA). 2. Earrings made of lemon quartz and gold by Carelle (USA). 3. Pendant in gold, diamonds, and Murano glass by Fatima Sewani/FS Designs (USA). 4. Dress by Lela Rose. 5. Yellow beryl and diamond ring by Gumuchian (USA). 6. Yellow diamond wedding band by Daniel K (USA). 7. Citrine and diamond ring by Al Coro (Germany).


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A warm cheerful colour evoking sunshine and happiness, yellow ranges from pale buttery hues to vivid sun tones. Fine jewellers create their lemony looks with gems that include sapphire, diamond, beryl, tourmaline, quartz, jade, and

citrine.

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8. Yellow sapphire and diamond pendant by Richard Krementz Gemstones (USA). 9. Citrine and diamond earrings by Fiamma (Brazil). 10. Capricorn pendant in citrine and gold by Stephen Webster (Britain). 11. Flower ring in diamonds and sapphires by Palmiero (Italy). 12. Yellow and white diamond bracelet by Bogh-Art (Switzerland). 13. Diamond and gold ring by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 14. Dress by George Chakra.

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1. Flower brooch in keshi pearls, gemstones, and diamonds by Lorenz Baumer (France). 2. “Morning Glory” sapphire and diamond ring in white gold by Green G (Hong Kong). 3. “Carved Flower” pendant in pink opal, sapphires, pearls, and diamonds by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 4. Dress by Krizia. 5. Diamond and gemstone ring by Cartier (France). 6. Gold brooch set with sapphires, diamonds, and tsavorites by Zorab Atelier de Création (Thailand). 7. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Leo Pizzo (Italy). 8. Gold brooch with sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds by Suna Bros (USA).

One of the most perennial themes in fine jewellery is the flower. Some are made of luscious gemstone petals. Others are created with pavé diamonds and coloured gems. Still others use tiny flowers as accents. Whatever the style, flower jewellery will

blossom forever.

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9. Gold and gemstone earrings by Jolie B. Ray Designs (USA). 10. Gold and diamond pendant by Manoel Bernardes (Brazil). 11. Sapphire and diamond ring in white and pink gold by Joia (France). 12. “Orchid” brooch in opals, amethyts, diamonds and gold by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 13. Gold ring with white agate, diamonds, and gemstones by Rina Limor (USA). 14. Gold and enamel necklace by Mattioli (Italy). 15. Ring in gold, diamonds, and sapphires by Stefan Hafner (Italy). 16. Gold ring in yellow, pink, and white diamonds by Rahaminov Diamonds (USA). 17. Dress by Venexiana.

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1. Pink gold and diamond ring by Favero (Italy). 2. Pink and white gold bangle with diamonds by Bergio (USA). 3. Pink gold and diamond pendant by Peter Storm (USA). 4. Pink gold and diamond ring by Carla Amorim (Brazil). 5. Dress by Cho Cheng. 6. Pink gold and rough diamond ring by Damiani (Italy). 7. Pink gold and gemstone ring by Casato Roma (Italy).

Popular in Russia at the beginning of the 19th century, pink or rose gold is now one of the favourite metals of fine jewellery designers everywhere. Deriving its subtle pinkish colour from alloys of copper and gold, this precious metal provides a luxurious setting for

diamonds and gemstones.

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8. Pink gold and diamond pendant by Luca Carati (Italy). 9. Pink gold and diamond earrings by Daniela Swaebe (USA). 10. Pink gold and diamond ring by Gumuchian (USA). 11. Pink and white gold bangle with diamonds by The Fifth Season (Italy). 12. Diamond pavé and pink gold ring by Bonato (Italy). 13. Pink gold, diamond, and gemstone ring by Ramon (Spain). 14. Dress by George Chakra.

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1. Tanzanite, diamond, and gold ring by James Kaya. 2. Dress by Rebecca Taylor. 3. Tanzanite and diamond earrings set in titanium by Francis Mertens. 4. “Killer Man Jaro” tanzanite and diamond gold pendant by Stephen Webster. 5. Necklace in tanzanite beads and centre stone with diamonds and a platinum clasp by Gumuchian.

In the shadow of mighty Mount Kilimanjaro lie hidden the world’s only deposits of a very rare and unusual gemstone. Blue with a delicate hint of purple, tanzanite is an extraordinary gem that has captured the imagination of gem and jewellery lovers around the globe. A favourite of designers, the gem’s magical colours grace some of the world’s most elegant jewellery. See many of these pieces in person at the summer shows in Las Vegas, June 2010. For more on these precious jewels, visit:

www.tanzanitefoundation.com.


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6. Tanzanite and diamond pendant in gold by Gordon Aatlo. 7. Tanzanite, diamond, and gold pendant by Suna Bros. 8. Tanzanite, diamond, and gold earrings by Paula Crevoshay. 9. “Aurora” pendant in rose gold with tanzanite, diamonds, and pink sapphires by Erica Courtney. 10. Emerald cut 15.23-carat tanzanite centre stone set in a patented 18K gold Signature Fit ring with eight baguette diamonds by JFA Designs. 11. Tanzanite, diamond, and gold earrings by Yael Designs. 12. Tanzanite and diamond bracelet in gold by Trésor. 13. Dress by Nicole Miller.

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1. Diamond and gold locket by Chad Allison (USA) 2. Diamond and gold heart key by Gabriel & Co (USA). 3. Diamond and sapphire cross by Staurino (Italy). 4. Diamond and gold ring by Paris Blues/Zalemark (USA). 5. Silver pendants by Replay Jewel (Italy). 6. Dress by Chado Ralph Rucci. 7. Gold and diamond “Belles Nuits” bracelet by Lorenz Baumer (France). 8. Evil eye bracelet in gold and enamel to protect its wearer from harm by Aaron Basha (USA).

Jewellery expressing symbolism or messages is as old as adornment itself. It may evoke friendship or love, show support for a

group or cause, belief in a religion, or be in the form of a talisman to protect one from harm. Or it

may be intended to provoke. Whatever form it takes, symbolic jewellery

definitely sends a message.

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9. Diamond and gold heart key by KC Designs (USA). 10. .Initial jewellery in diamonds and gold by Erica Courtney (USA). 11. Gold pendant by Kidou (France). 12. Personalized pendants in silver and gold by Heather Moore (USA). 13. Personalized gold charms and bracelet by Monica Rich Kosann (USA). 14. Steel charms by Cesare Paciotti (Italy). 15. Rings with a message in Braille by Demaria (Italy). 16. Dress by Maya Hansen.

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1. “Fusion” ring in gold and diamonds by Georg Jensen (Denmark). 2. Textured gold and diamond ring by Cresber (Spain). 3. Pearl, diamond, gemstone pendant by Autore (Australia). 4. Sapphire, tsavorite, and diamond ring by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 5. Dress by Mara Hoffman. 6. Diamond and gemstone “Fire” pendant by Palmiero (Italy). 7. Gold and diamond bracelet by Antonini (Italy). 8. Diamond and gold ring by Gay Frères (France).

Among the trends in jewellery that have captured the imagination of designers around the world are organic and fluid freeform styles, with or without various textures, and with or without gemstones and diamonds. Wearable for all occasions, they range from simple to

sumptuous, but they are all certified organic.

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9. Gold earrings by Antonio Bernardo (Brazil). 10. Gold necklace by The Fifth Season (Italy). 11. Gold and diamond earring by Manoel Bernardes (Brazil). 12. Gold and diamond ring by Vendorafa (Italy). 13. Gold and diamond ring by Brüner (Brazil). 14. Gold and enamel ring by Maya Jewels (USA). 15. Diamond and gold pendant by Preziose (Brazil). 16. Sapphire and diamond brooch by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 17. Dress by Christian Siriano.

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This Utopian story started in Milan more than 60 years ago with a family enterprise called Gaia, a gemstone cutter and supplier of pearls and precious gems. In 1997, the third generation decided to create a brand that would give new life and image to South Sea pearls and coloured gems. Paolo and Anna chose the name Utopia, to reflect the perfection of their products. “The gleaming perfection of South Sea pearls and precious gemstones combined with precious gold and diamonds evokes the essence of Utopia Jewels,” says Anna. And, to reach this level of Utopian perfection, she adds, “each jewel is made entirely in our own workshops in Milan, from A to Z. This includes cutting the coloured gemstones and even making the clasps. It is important to have perfect quality control. Our customers, and their customers, are very demanding and we want to offer the best quality we can.”When it comes to quality, Utopia insists on only the finest gems and pearls. “We use only the South Sea and Tahitian variety because they are the most precious and beautiful. They deserve to be showcased in fine jewellery.” The brand’s team of experts travels the world over in search of the finest stones, and it partners with a pearl farm in Australia to obtain the highest quality of these living gems. Anna herself spent eight months at the farm learning how to determine the quality of pearls, something she still loves doing. “Actually,” she reminisces, “I was not interested in jewellery or joining the family business when I was younger.” Preferring the world of finance, she obtained a degree in Economics from Milan University. “Living in Milan, however, and with my family in jewellery, I became more involved with design and fashion. I began to appreciate the precious metals, gems, and, of course, the perfect pearls that take more than two and a half years to create.” Today, as president of Utopia Jewels USA, she not only manages the company, but also brings feedback from the market to the brand’s team of designers. “I am the link between the market and the design,” explains Anna. “For example, I saw the need for placing our upmarket yearly collection, Bolero, on the

P R O F I L E

As 16th-century philosopher Sir Thomas More envisioned it, Utopia is a faraway and mythical island of harmony and perfection, a gateway between heaven and earth. On a more terrestrial level, 20th-century Italian creators Paolo Gaia and his daughter Anna envisioned jewellery that would evoke this

same perfection and harmony: “We imagined the light on that island to be similar to the luminescence of Utopia Jewels.”


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Anna Gaia, president of Utopia-Jewels USA.

Notturno Scarf Necklace in white gold, diamonds, South Sea and Tahitian pearls.

My Utopia pendant and ring in gold, smoky quartz, diamonds, multicolour sapphires, South Sea pearls.

Notturno earrings in white gold, diamonds, South Sea pearls.

same level of importance as a new more fashion-oriented, gem and pearl line called My Utopia.” While the brand uses mostly precious stones—mainly sapphires of all colours—this new fashion-forward collection mixes semi-precious gems with South Sea and Tahitian pearls with a high design element. The new My Utopia collection is composed of two styles: a more classic line and more fashion-oriented pieces. Utopia also creates one-of-kind pieces with unique designs and exceptional pearls and gemstones.In terms of fashion, Utopia also anticipated the trend towards blackened metals and uses black 18K gold mixed with brown diamonds and dark or multi-coloured Tahitian pearls. “The use of brown diamonds permits us to create products at lower price points than white diamonds, in keeping with market demands, while being quite stylish,” she explains. “In terms of market demands, we listen to our retailers, and we support them in a number of ways. First of all is our product design and quality. Secondly, most of our media planning is done in co-op with our retailers, using magazines that they suggest, including local publications. Thirdly, we are introducing special lines such as our present entry-level collection at Couture for the American market, with retail prices ranging from $1500 to $4000. I must say that this has been quite an effort because of the high prices of South Sea pearls and the quality of the pieces. The line has two styles, one classic and one more contemporary.”Utopia has been present in the American market for four years, with an office on Madison Avenue and a fully equipped service centre to handle any alterations or repairs that might arise. Manuel Martin, director of the U.S. operation, explains, “It was important for us to have a presence here since it allows us to have closer contact with our clients and, in turn, to be in a position

to respond to their needs in a more timely manner.” Among the

brand’s clients are many independent retailers

as well as Saks and Neiman Marcus.

W h a t about the Utopian future? “Our primary market is now Europe,” Anna states, “but our plan is to strengthen distribution in Eastern Europe and the Middle East, as well as in the USA. We eventually want to open some corners and single-brand boutiques in a few international tourist destinations.” Anna is not in a hurry, however, insisting that everything has to go step-by-step, with controlled growth. “I believe that it is important to proceed steadily and smoothly, keeping in mind that the most important aspects of our business are the products and the support for our retailers.” This then is the secret to the harmony and perfection of Utopia Jewels. (www.utopia-jewels.com)

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My Utopia pendant in gold, diamonds, golden South Sea pearl, amethyst, peridot, quartz, citrine, smoky quartz, and green tourmaline.

One-of-a-kind bracelet in white gold, South Sea Pearls, tourmalines.

Bolero necklace in white gold, diamonds, South Sea pearls.

1. My Utopia ring in gold, brown diamonds, golden South Sea pearl, enamel.

2. Bolero ring in black rhodium, brown diamonds, Tahitian pearl.

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Bolero earrings in white gold, diamonds, South Sea pearls.

Brosway has its finger on the pulse of jewellery fashion for the summer with sparkling accessories endowed with various nuances, thus offering countless ways of expressing one’s personality. In its feminine lines, the Italian brand is offering the new 925 Petit Collection. Made up of a series of small silver themed charms, such as Alphabet, Nautical, Mirror, Stone Cubes, and Swing, among many others, these precious little silver miniatures are reminders of memories and emotions. Petit reflects a world of little things that, in silence, evoke the life itself.Also new is the Très Jolie collection with pieces in steel and rose gold. Among the brand’s many other collections with new pieces are the Romeo & Juliet line, evoking passion and romance with two little interlocking rings, and Poème, where the steel heart comes closer to the pearl. A spirit of adventure and exuberance are seen in Brosway’s masculine Maestrale with its pendants and bracelets made of steel, cord, and coloured enamels representing the four Maritime Republic flags. Feisty, steady, and reliable characterize a man wearing a steel and enamel Flat Chain bracelet, while Ares and Rock & Roll collections are comprised of soft figures enriched by nautical elements.To add timely colour to the summer months, Brosway presents its True Color line of watches comprised of a selection of very bright and cheerful colours. Young, fashionable, playful, and unpredictably stylish, they let the wearer express her mood and lifestyle. (www.brosway.com)

With summer soon here, Brosway is offering several women’s and men’s jewellery and watch collections that are just the ticket for fashion and fun.

By T. R. Flora

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P R O F I L E

1. Rose silver necklace with amethyst and sterling silver charms in the 925 Petit Collection.

2. Ladies’ True Color watch in steel and polycarbonate case and bracelet. Water-resistant to 30 m and quartz movement.

3. Steel and enamel bracelet in the Flat Chain collection.

4. Soft feminine rings and pearl in steel and rose gold in the Très Jolie line.

5. Steel and pearl earrings in the Poème collection.

6. Pendant of interlocking steel rings set with crystals in the Romeo & Juliet line.

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Since the age of three, Raffaella Ricci knew that she wanted to create jewellery. Growing up, she had a first-hand view of the gold-

making process at her uncle’s factory in Arezzo. Later, while studying Foreign Languages at Florence University—she speaks four—Raffaella took courses in design in view of one day realizing her dream. After working for one

of the city’s well-known jewellery retailers, where she gained experience in design and sales, she started her own

company in 1998 with her husband, Alessio Mannelli, a practiced gemmologist with experience in industrial design.

At first, the pair focused on custom orders, then in 2002, the first Raffaella Mannelli Collection was launched. Quickly moving away from

more traditional designs, she found inspiration in nature and art. “I have to just open a window and look at the trees or travel to the seashore to find ideas. I also look to art and architecture. I then begin to draw and the designs take shape,” explains Raffaella in her studio in Borgo San Lorenzo.And what unusual shapes they are! Using black ebony hardwood as a base, Raffaella combines gold and diamonds to create sinuous designs that seem deceptively simple. “They’re not simple at all,” she explains. “The carvers are specially trained but they must also have the talent to carefully follow the lines of the wood to achieve the desired effect. If not, the piece will break.” Because each piece of wood is different, each piece of jewellery is also slightly different. The average piece takes five to seven

days to produce, all by hand. The effect of the gold and diamonds against the black wood is indeed dramatic, but when adding colour, such as sapphires

and other gemstones, the effect is dazzling.“The reception by retailers has been amazing,” she says, adding that the United States is her largest market, followed by Italy. “Surprisingly, 2009 was our best year, and for the first quarter of 2010, sales were up 30 percent.” The brand has a distributor in New York, who handles

her North American clients, which include Bergdorf Goodman and many independent retailers.

What’s next for Raffaella Mannelli? “We will continue to create while looking for new challenges,” she muses. Recently, she has been experimenting with boxwood, a white hardwood that is also fashioned into stylishly fluid designs with gold and

precious gems. “Like ebony, boxwood is very hard, and also offers many possibilities.”

Together, this husband and wife team will continue their vision that combines natural materials, geometric shapes, and provocative designs for the Raffaella Mannelli brand, one of the true treasures of Tuscany. (www.raffaellamannelli.com)

A small village near Florence is home to one of the more unusual Italian brands, Raffaella Mannelli, named after its stylishly chic and passionate designer.


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P R O F I L E

The guiding principle for master goldsmith Salvatore Barberi has been to be innovative yet never eccentric. He has always believed in creating simple yet new shapes, shapes that are fluid and unpretentious while being elegant and refined, shapes that combine classical style with contemporary design.All of Oromalia’s jewellery is handcrafted in the brand’s workshops with great attention to finishing. Large pieces, such as link bracelets and earrings, are cast and then invisibly soldered together to make them light but strong and durable (with a thickness of at least 0.2 cm). No detail is too small for Barberi, such as placing pins in the earrings to hold them in place and make them comfortable to wear. Always looking for new challenges, Barberi was the very first, a number of years ago, to use ebony in his creations. “I use it like a highly polished gem,” explains this design pioneer. “When combined with 18K gold and diamonds, it gives an original and novel dimension to our jewellery.” Each piece of the dark hardwood is carefully hand-polished to a brilliant shine for an unequalled finish. The craftsmanship is so precise that it is impossible to see where the ebony links are cut and joined together. Among Oromalia’s collections is the Ethnic line, inspired by Africa, which combines ebony, gold, and diamonds in sleek elegant pieces. Ebony showcases the wood in various shapes with gold and diamonds. As its name implies, Classic features various colours of gold in a variety of links, ovals, and circles, some set with mother-of-pearl and diamonds. Thread is composed of slender gold and diamond earrings and bracelets. Parisienne includes a number of pieces in gold with diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and gems in circles or ovals. Last, but certainly not least, Jungle and Leather have enjoyed great success all over the world with their combinations of leather, gold, and diamonds. The shapes are simple yet refined, and very comfortable to wear. Barberi has also recently added a gold spring clip to the Leather bracelet line, with or without diamond pavé. These fashion-forward bracelets have attracted the attention of young customers and those who are young-at-heart. Oromalia is now truly a family affair since daughter Sandra has joined the company after

her studies. While Salvatore works at the bench and oversees the other master goldsmiths, his wife Teresa and their daughter Sandra take care of customer

service and other administrative functions. Sandra also travels to trade fairs around the world to showcase the brand’s products. Created with a mixture of passion, creativity, and technical skill, the fine jewellery of Oromalia is

endowed with a definite Florentine enchantment. (www.oromalia.com)

P R O F I L E

The meaning of Oromalia in Italian is “enchanted by gold”, so it is no wonder that Salvatore Barberi’s Florence-based company has earned a reputation as an exceptional producer of fine gold jewellery.


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Demeter captures colour and elegance in gold, diamonds, and gemstones. Paris Blues, the visionary brand with 25 years of staying power, presents Paris Blues Jewelry, a youthful trendy line for the young and young-at-heart. See these and more at Zalemark’s suite at the Venetian Hotel. For appointments: 800.949.9809

For this Brazilian brand, fashion and style are second nature. Its highly colourful creations are made of the finest gems, diamonds, and gold. The latest collection features a new line of exclusive pieces made with Imperial Topaz, the world’s rarest gemstone, in colours that range from peach to pink to cherry red. JCK 50089

Dress them up or dress them down, pearls epitomize the elegance of fashionable jewellery. The creations of this third-generation family business—now run by Salvador J. Assael, an award-winning industry pioneer—are designs ranging from classic strands to pearls com-bined with diamonds, coloured gems, wood, and other modern materials. JCK PP 57

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Always at the forefront of fashion, this creative brand captures the daring fun of Brazilian style and the bold colour of Brazilian gemstones in pieces that range from classic to contemporary. The brand pays homage to fire and joy in three new collections introduced in Las Vegas: Lume, Disco, and Alegria. JCK 50092

The shimmer of Denmark’s Skagen coast serves as inspiration for this jewellery that features elegant Danish design with organic detail. Captivating the eye and spirit, each piece glimmers in polished or brushed silver stainless steel, some with hues of yellow, rose, or dusky grey gold, as well as pearls, gems, or crystals. JCK 26059

Mirella opens a new chapter in fine jewellery. Featuring Edward Mirell’s proprietary Black Ti™, this new ladies line consists of artistically crafted designs, many adorned with sterling silver and diamond accents. With bold sophistication that is both seductive and compelling, it speaks to the philosophy: Have Attitude…Be Naughty…Be Noticed! JCK 43007

Since 1923, this German brand has used the highest quality diamonds, gold, and plati-num in innovative ways. Among these unique designs are floating diamonds in the “Lib-erté” collection, rings that turn into bracelets in the “Zoom” line, and unusual “Vendetta” pinky rings with translucent corundum inlay. Couture, German Pavilion, GP1

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BaselWorld, the World Watch and Jewellery Show, opened on an optimistic note on March 18 and the optimism continued throughout the entire show. When the fair closed its doors eight days later, on May 25, a total of 100,700 trade professionals from across the globe had crossed its turnstiles—a seven percent increase over the 2009 edition. Exhibitors numbered 1915, a slight

decrease from last year’s total of 1952. Given the times, however, these numbers were not totally unexpected. The media, both consumer and trade, was well represented with more than 2900 people visiting the fair.Jacques J. Duchêne, President of the Exhibitors’ Committee, drew a very positive conclusion from the results. “We are delighted with this year’s BaselWorld. Without being euphoric, we can optimistically look ahead this year. The show is, and remains, the place to meet for the watch and jewellery industry.”On a purely anecdotal note, it was clear that traffic was much greater in the watch halls than in the jewellery halls. Having said that, however, many jewellery exhibitors reported that most of the

buyers who did show up were optimistic and ready to order. Comments from the various brands in Halls 2, 3, and 6 were mixed, and ranged from “ok” and “better than last year” to “excellent” and “one of the best BaselWorlds ever.”

Strolling the halls, it was evident that many jewellery brands and designers have been facing the challenges of the economic slump with

a variety of new products and innovations. One major example is the continued use of lightweight, hollow, and lacy designs, which allow for a bigger and stylish look at a smaller price. Alternative metals such as titanium, steel, and bronze have become mainstream for upscale

designers, while wood has joined the ranks of precious commodities.Dark clouds over the industry have also had their silver linings, literally.

The use of this white metal by even very upmarket brands continues unabated. As one designer quipped, “It’s not the metal that is important, it’s

M A R K E T P L A C E

At the previous edition of BaselWorld, pessimism was rampant, all too reflective of the watch and jewellery industries as a whole. This year, however, things were quite different.


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1. Pink sapphire, amethyst, and diamond earrings by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 2. Trio of earrings in gold and enamel by Wellendorff (Germany). 3. Peacock bangle in multi-coloured gemstones by Zorab Atelier de Création (Thailand).

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the design.” And silver certainly accounted for a great many interesting designs at the show, both as a pure metal and set with gems and diamonds.In terms of metals, pink gold proved to be a favourite choice of designers from around the world, while many others preferred to use blackened metals—gold, silver, titanium—in their pieces.

Design DirectionsIn terms of styles, there was something for everyone at BaselWorld. From haute joaillerie pieces dripping in diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies to simple enamelled silver charms, and everything in between. Drop earrings and the ever-popular circular hoops drew a lot of attention, in plain metal or embellished with diamonds and gemstones. And speaking of circles, they could be seen in all types of jewellery, continuing the design directions started a couple of years ago. The organic look continued its ascension, as did textured pieces in all shapes and materials. Right in time for summer, the Nature motif was one of the major trends at this year’s BaselWorld. All sorts of fauna—animals, birds, insects, snakes, spiders, fish, frogs, tigers, lions, and even mythical animals—were depicted in fine jewellery. Yet, the flower and fruit motifs were also ubiquitous favourites.Don’t count out the diamonds, however, which were resplendent in large and unusual shapes, colours, and cuts in luxurious necklaces, earrings, and rings.

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1. Silver in one of its many forms by Calgaro (Italy). 2. Silver and wood earrings by Elle (France). 3. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond “Fairy Tales” brooch by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 4. Cufflinks by Ferrari/Damiani (Italy). 5. Charm in pink and white gold by Bliss (Italy).

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Colour and More ColourThe main design direction is the use of colour. With designers looking for more “affordable luxury,” they paired semi-precious gemstones with precious accents in diamonds and sapphires for an elegant and opulent look. Besides the multi-coloured creations, some of the most interesting combinations were purple and green, purple and pink, and the tonal trio of red, yellow, and orange. Although black represents all the colours combined and white is the absence of all colour, the contrasting combination of the two non-colours was one of the strongest trends at this year’s show. Black and white diamonds were most often paired together, while some jewellers used black sapphires or onyx with

white agate or diamonds. Pearls also lent themselves well to the contrast of black and white, as did enamel.

As a picture is worth a thousand words, the photos on these pages best illustrate the main design directions seen this

year at BaselWorld. Next year, the show will be held from March 24 to 31, 2011.

1. Amethyst and diamond pendant by Casato Roma (Italy). 2. Steel and bronze earrings by Rebecca (Italy). 3. Pearl and gemstone necklace by Autore (Australia). 4. Men’s fashion rings by Guess (USA). 5. Silver pendant by As & As (Spain). 6. Tourmaline and diamond ring by TTF Studio (China). 7. Diamond rings by Samra (Dubai).

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1. Silver earrings by Rosato (Italy). 2. Charms in silver and enamel by Luxenter (Spain). 3. Opal and diamond ring by Christofol (France). 4. Pomegranate” ring in gold and sapphires by Nanis (Italy). 5. Carved pearl ring by Louis Golay (Switzerland). 6. Multicoloured choker by deGrisgono (Switzerland). 7. Silver “Veritas” bracelet by Franco Pianegonda (Italy).


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1. Tsavorite, sapphire, and diamond rings set in hand-carved onyx by Umane (France). 2. USB key pendant in gold by D Duke (Italy). 3. Gold and wood with diamonds by Vendorafa (Italy). 4.Titanium bangle by Danish Design (Denmark). 5 “Petit Prince” pendant in gold by Monnaie de Paris (France). 6. Transparent enamel pendant depicting the stained glass window in the Amiens Cathedral by Commelin (France). 7. Gold and diamond rings by Meister (Germany). 8. Gold, diamond, peridot pendant by Magerit (Spain).


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1. Necklace in tsavorites, rubellites, and brown diamonds by Chopard (Switzerland). 2. Titanium and diamond earrings by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 3. Multi-coloured gemstone necklace by Sun Jewels (India). 4. Silver charm bracelet by Ti Sento (Netherlands). 5. “Black & Gold” collection pendant with diamonds by Leo Pizzo (Italy). 6. Golden pearl and diamond necklace by Jewelmer (Philippines).

C A N A D A ’ S P A S S I O N F O R

J E W E L L E R Y

INSPIRATION CONNECTION EDUCATION

JOIN US AS THE REINVENTION BEGINSSUNDAY, AUGUST 8 - TUESDAY, AUGUST 10, 2010 METRO TORONTO CONVENTION CENTRE - NORTH BUILDING TORONTO, ONTARIO

R E G I S T E R A T : W W W . J C K T O R O N T O . C A

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Over 3,000 exhibitors from 44 countries and regionsOver 39,000 buyers from 140 countries and regionsOver 120,000 square metres of exhibition space

The best gems-sourcing platform at the AsiaWorld-Expo14-18 September 2010The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 2009 became the world’s and most internationalised jewellery fair in terms of number of exhibitors and visitors’ nationality profile and was basking in the success of the newly implemented product sectorisation initiative, whereby all jewellery raw materials including diamonds, gemstones, pearls were showcased in AsiaWorld-Expo.

Fine jewellery takes centre stage at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre16-20 September 2010Under the product sectorisation initiative, HKCEC will showcase only fine finished jewellery, including jewellery set with gemstones, diamonds, pearls, jade and jadeite. In 2009, the Fair featured over 1,700 fine finished jewellery exhibitors from 38 countries and regions.

Themed Pavilion Highlight

AsiaWorld-ExpoDiamond Pavilion – Over 400 exhibitors will display fine cut and polished diamonds, occupying over 15,000 square metres. It will be the biggest diamond pavilion under one roof worldwide, including AWDC pavilion from Antwerp and IDI pavilion from Israel.

Fine Gem Pavilion – Over 50 esteemed exhibitors from around the world will showcase a variety of top-quality gems of loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones.

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreFine Design Pavilion – The pavilion is home to exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds, pearls, gemstones and bejewelled watches, invaluable antique and estate jewellery from over 70 internationally renowned jewellery houses.

Hong Kong Premier Pavilion – The pavilion showcases homegrown jewellery brands and what Hong Kong jewellers can offer to the world’s high-end markets. It features around 30 of city’s sophisticated and elegant assembly of stylish jewellery in a luxury and prestige setting befitting each masterpiece on display.

International Premier Pavilion – The branded new pavilion is the ideal platform presenting prominent jewellery brands and latest collections with finely crafted jewellery from around 30 prestigious international jewellers.

There were plenty of smiles among the exhibitors during the 31st edition of the International Gold, Silver, and Jewellery trade exhibition OroArezzo, held from April 10 to 13th in the Tuscan town of Arezzo. According to fair officials, the show closed with a high level of confidence and motivation, a welcome relief after the last past two difficult years. “For the first time in a long time,” explains Giovanni Tricca, President of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, “we can say that things are going in a positive direction. All the signs emerging from OroArezzo will be evaluated and put to good use.” Among the positive signs were a 10 percent increase in the number of exhibitors (453) and a 15 percent increase in the number of qualified buyers (nearly 12,000). Of these, 26 percent were foreign (compared to 20 percent in 2009).

“The productive boost hasn’t just been an emotional one,” adds Raul Barbieri, director of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi. “The exhibitors of

OroArezzo have truly received valuable input for 2010, including the necessity of insisting upon universal recognition of the added value of the ‘Made in Italy’ label or else risking a decline in the brand just to satisfy the various needs of international markets. And Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, with its Organizing Committee,

will assist companies with their promotional efforts throughout the year, both in Italy and abroad.”

Barbieri adds that the fair has invested a great deal in helping exhibitors, including inviting more than 260 carefully selected international buyers in collaboration with the Italian Trade Commission. These invited guests came from both traditional markets (Europe, USA) and emerging nations (Russia, China, India). “We are a true marketing partner for these businesses, becoming an essential point of reference for anyone operating in the sector.”The commitment of national institutions is also strong, including that of the Ministry of Economic Development—Department for Business and Internationalization, to help Italian companies compete and protect their creations on the international market. Among the many special events that took place during the show was Gold Up, a prestigious event that paired the jewels of the “Oro d’Autore” collection with the designs of 16 of the most elite Italian fashion houses. OroArezzo also hosted the 19th edition of its Première competition. Focusing on design, the event offered

buyers the opportunity to preview the stylistic trends and technological innovations of Italian jewellery in terms of products that will be offered for sale later this year. Première also proved to be a testing ground for jewellery designers, as the best pieces were selected by a panel of judges, based on design, practicality for manufacture, and saleability.Clearly, OroArezzo was a definite success for the city of Arezzo, and for its local jewellery industry as well as that for Italy. The 32nd edition will be held again in April 2011. (www.oroarezzo.it)



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Daniela Coaro

SEM-AR

Falcinelli

P.V.Z.

Graziella

Organiser UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2827 6211 Fax: (852) 2827 7831

To exhibit, please contact Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Tel: (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179 Fax: (852) 3749 7319Email: [email protected]

For further details, please visit our website

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

Halls 3B & 3C • Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

16 – 20 September 2010 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The World’s Number One Fine Jewellery Event

Inspired creations from international sources gather on one global stage

Annamaria Cammilli Gioielli Srl

AUTORE

B. H. Multi Com

B. Klein

Christopher Designs, Inc

Crivelli Srl

Daniel K

Euro Pearls

Graziella Group

Hodel

House of Baguettes NY

Jewel Décor

Jewelmer

K di Kuore

La Reina

Lili Jewelry

Magerit Joyas

Nanis Srl

Noah Barcelona

Pranda Group

Ramon

Roberto Bravo

Samra Jewellery

The Fifth Season

Thien Po Jewelry

TTF Studio

The 45th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, which opened February 26, turned out to be one of the best in recent years. Overall results, in terms of sales and orders reported by exhibitors, were far better than expected, despite the uncertain local political situation that dampened the mood of the fair’s opening day. With the situation resolved by the evening, the fair proceeded normally over the following four days.The star business category of the fair was silver jewellery. Silver is clearly

recovering much of the market share that it had lost in previous years. Gold also did well, while in the gemstone sector, many vendors reported brisk sales. Clearly, those buyers who attended the show were quite serious. In hard times, it is the single-minded trader who carries the corporate flag to international fairs.This 45th edition of the fair showcased the world-class skills of Thailand’s home-grown artisans, thereby encouraging industry links with traders from around the globe and offering participants

the chance of being at the centre of the gem industry. The BGJF is now internationally recognized as among the top five gem and jewellery exhibitions in the world. It is a proactive platform where Thai gems and jewellery are promoted on the international stage, and it also serves to further enhance Thailand’s image as the leading source of the highest quality gemstones, created by the world’s finest craftsmen. The fair featured many special attractions such as the TGJ Elite Creation Pavilion, the Hot 2010 Vol II Design Pavilion, the Diamond Fine Pavilion, and the Business Matching Zone.Among the invited speakers, Martin Rapaport, who delivered the keynote address at the “Diamond Decade: New Opportunities” seminar, insisted that the new business reality is not about money, but rather about values—economic, social, political, and generational values, which are all undergoing a fundamental shift. The key to the future survival in the global economy, he stressed, is to adopt strategic thinking and not just remain a survivor of the past decade. It is necessary to reposition one’s business as a winner in the next decade.The President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Avi Paz, gave a presentation about the “Global Economy, the Thailand Economy, and the Diamond Market” during the show. He acknowledged that the past year was the most difficult in history for the global economy. However, the economic climate looks much better now and he felt that the people in the gems and jewellery industry should start 2010 with hope. The 46th edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held September 7 to 11, 2010 at the Impact Challenger venue. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)


By F. Sewani

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When Leonardo Zeik opened his first store in 1964, his passion for fine jewellery—combined with a strong work ethic, determination, and compassion for others—started him on a long journey, one that continues today with the second generation. The story of Leonardo Jewelers reads like the American Dream. A young immigrant from Cuba, Leonardo Zeik arrived in the United States in the early 1960s with a wife, four young children, and no money. To provide for his family, he found a job in a factory, working two back-to-back shifts. After these gruelling 80-hour weeks, he began selling jewellery door-to-door to other Cuban immigrants. By 1964, Zeik saved up enough money to open a store in his hometown of Elizabeth, New Jersey.Originally called Joyeria Leonardo, the store was small with only one counter for jewellery and watches. The rest was packed with necessities that other Cuban immigrants would need, such as toasters, refrigerators, furniture, and clothing.

Zeik understood only too well the hardships faced by these new arrivals, and he did his best to help them. As his son Michael explains, “His store was a place where Cuban-Americans who didn’t have established credit, couldn’t speak English, or didn’t have the cash to pay for their necessities, were offered credit with no questions asked. He didn’t even charge interest on

their debt. A handshake to repay whatever they could afford on a weekly basis was all he asked.” Many of these original customers, their children, and grandchildren have remained loyal clients of Leonardo Jewelers.

By the end of the 1960s, Zeik eliminated the furniture, appliance and clothing lines to focus on high-end jewellery and Swiss watches. The store quickly gained a reputation for having some of the highest quality pieces to be found anywhere. During the 1970s, the store expanded beyond its original Cuban-American customer base, and Leonardo Zeik became one of the first U.S. retailers to travel to Europe in search of fine jewellery. “In Europe, our father met and forged relationships with the finest goldsmiths and designers,” says daughter Lourdes. “Now, 45 years later, we continue to scour the planet for new and exciting jewellery brands whose attention to detail, beauty, and quality are unparalleled. Sometimes they are new designers who have strokes of genius and are one-trick-ponies, so to speak. Others are consistent in their quality and creativity. One brand that offers consistency in its products is Ramon.” Ramon’s jewellery speaks for itself in the showcases at Leonardo Jewelers, as Lourdes goes on to add, “The quality, design, and finish of Ramon’s pieces are among the most beautiful and well-finished pieces in the industry. The brand’s designs have stood the test of time. They are created for the ages.” It has been more than a decade ago since the elder Zeik passed the business onto his children—Ivette, Leo, Lourdes, Michael, and Vivian. Inheriting more than just a successful business, the second generation also received their father’s passion for quality and craftsmanship as well as his commitment to customer service.

Read our highlight on www.CIJintl.com

It’s about selling the right product

By Cynthia Unninayar - A highlight from CIJintl.com

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From left to right: Leonardo Zeik, founder of Leonardo Jewelers, his wife Lourdes, the Mayor of Red Bank the Honorable Pasquale Menna, son Michael Zeik, and son Leo Zeik.

Inside Leonardo Jewelers’ Elizabeth store.

The outside of the Leonardo Jewelers store in Red Bank, New Jersey.

Pink gold and diamond earrings by Ramon.

Selection of gemstone, diamond, and 18K gold rings by Ramon.

S U C C E S S S T O R I E S O N C I J i n t l . c o m

A, B, CAaron Basha 48Al Coro 40Alfieri & St. John 20, 36Alpilex 69Ambermart 68Antonini 24, 50Antonio Bernardo 51As & As 64Assael 5, 7, 60, Cover 3Autore 39, 50, 64Avakian 9Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 77Bastian 30, 31Bellon 37Bergio 44Bielka 38BK Jewellery 59Bliss 63Bogh-Art 20, 41Bonato 45 Brosway 54Brumani 24Brüner 34, 35, 51, 61Buccellati Back CoverCalgaro 63Carelle 8, 36, 40Carla Amorim 44Cartier 42Casato Roma 37, 44, 64Cesare Paciotti 49Chad Allison 49Chimento 37Chopard 9, 70Christofol 66Commelin 68Cresber 50D, E, F, GD Duke 68Damiani 44Daniel K 40Daniela Coaro 74Daniella Swaebe 45Danielle 38Danish Design 68David Lin Jades 39DeGrisogono 66Demaria 49Demeter/Zalemark 57, 60Elena Votsi 28, 29Elke Berr 36Elle 63Erica Courtney 38, 47, 48

Falcinelli 37, 74Favero 44Ferrari/Damiani 63Fiamma 41Francis Mertens 46Franco Pianegonda 66FS Designs 40Gabriel & Co 48Gay Frères 50Gebrüder Schaffrath 23, 61Georg Jensen 50GIA 67Giovanni Ferraris 20, 41, 70Goldesign 39Gordon Aatlo 47Graziella 74Green G 42Guess 64Gumuchian 9, 16, 21, 39, 40, 45, 46H, I, J, K, LHarry Winston 9Heather Moore 49HK Jewellery & Gem Fair 72, 73 IBGM 33IIJS 79International Premier Pavilion 75Iosi Cover 2, 13James Kaya 32, 38, 46JCK Las Vegas 71JCK Toronto 70Jewellery Theatre 37, 51, 63Jewelmer 70JFA Designs 47Joia 43Jolie B. Ray Designs 18, 43Jörg Heinz 26, 27Julia Behrends 20, 38KC Designs 49Kidou 49Kwiat 8Leo Pizzo 42, 70Lorenz Baumer 18, 42, 48Louis Golay 66Luca Carati 45 Luxenter 66M, NMagerit 37, 68Mathon Paris 16, 22, 37Matthias & Claire 19Mattioli 43Maya Jewels 51Meister 68

E D I T O R I A L & A D V E R T I S E R S I N D E X

Mirella/Edward Mirell 25, 61Monica Rich Kosann 49Monnaie de Paris 68Nafco 36Nanis 66Neil Lane 9Nikki Sedacca 16Nina Runsdorf 24Nouvelle Bague 1, 13O, P, QOpera Omnia 14, 15OroArezzo 74Oromalia 58P.V.Z. 74Palmiero 41, 50Paris Blues/Zalemark 48, 57, 60Paula Crevoshay 43, 47Peter Storm 44Ponte Vecchio 36Preziose 51 R Raffaella Mannelli 56Rahaminov Diamonds 43, 60Ramon 17, 45, 78, 79Rebecca 10, 11, 64Replay Jewel 48Richard Krementz Gemstones 41Rina Limor 43Robert Wander 24Rodney Rayner 39, 42, 51, 62Rosato 66Rosy Blue 65

S, TSamra 64Sem-Ar 74Skagen Designs 55, 61 Staurino 48Stefan Hafner Cover, 12, 13, 43Stephen Webster 41, 46Sun Jewels 70Suna Bros 42, 47Swarovski 37Talento Joias 16Tamir Jewels 22Tanzanite Foundation 46, 47The Fifth Season 45, 51Ti Sento 70Tiffany & Co 9, 22, 41Trésor 47TTF Studio 64U, VUmane 39, 68Utopia Jewels 3, 52, 53Van Cleef & Arpels 9Vendorafa 51, 68Versace 36Vianna 22, 38, 60W, X, Y, ZWellendorff 62Yael Designs 40, 47Yael Sonia 18Zorab 9, 18, 38, 42, 62

TRENDS & COLOURS 2010 is brought to you by International Jewellery Couture / Europa Star. • Editor Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Rayan Innue, Antonella Scorta, Kiran Nirankari

• Advertising contacts Alexandra Montandon [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7832 Italy - Alessandra Arati [email protected] T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected] T. +34 93 112 7113

Asia - Maggie Tong [email protected] + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar [email protected] T. +91 98211 51035USA - Cynthia Unninayar [email protected] T. +1 44 34743313

• Graphic Design Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director Philippe Maillard • On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com

Published by VNU Business Media SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: [email protected] in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2010 by Europa Star International Jewellery.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of International Jewellery.

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