chikan craft workers study

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Preliminary Survey on the Impact of Financial Crisis on Poor & Marginalised Women and Men in India Chikan Craft Industry By SEWA 1

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Handicrafts are unique expressions and represent a culture, tradition and heritage of a country. The Handicraft Industry is one of the important productive sector. Handicrafts can be defined as products which are produced either completely by hand or with the help of tools. Mechanical tools may be used as long as the direct manual contribution of the artisan remains the most substantial component of the finished product. Handicrafts are made from raw materials and can be produced in unlimited numbers. Such products can be utilitarian, aesthetic, artistic, creative, culturally attached, decorative, functional, traditional, religiously and socially symbolic and significant.

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Preliminary Survey on the Impact of Financial Crisison Poor & Marginalised Women and Men in India Chikan Craft IndustryBy SEW1!a"le of Contents1. Handicraft Industry................................................................................................31.1 The Importance of Handicrafts......................................................................31.2 Indian Handicraft Industry.............................................................................32. Chikan Craft Industry.............................................................................................42.1 History of Chikan Craft Industry...................................................................42.2 The Chikan Craft Process...............................................................................43. Methodology and esign of the !tudy..................................................................."3.1 #uestionnaires................................................................................................"3.2 Inter$ie% !chedule........................................................................................."3.3 &ocus 'roup iscussions..............................................................................."3.4 Case !tudies..................................................................................................."3.( !ample esign...............................................................................................)3.* ata +nalysis.................................................................................................)4. !ur$ey of Chikan Craft ,orkers............................................................................-4.1 emographic Profile of ,orkers...................................................................-4.1.1 +ge 'roup..............................................................................................-4.1.2 Caste Category.....................................................................................1.4.1.3 /eligion................................................................................................1.4.1.4 Type of &amily.....................................................................................1.4.1.( &amily !i0e...........................................................................................1.4.1.* Housing !tatus......................................................................................114.1." 1ccupation...........................................................................................114.1.) Monthly Income...................................................................................124.1.- 2ducation !tatus...................................................................................124.2 Impact of &inancial Crisis on ,orkers.........................................................124.2.1 Impact on 3o45 ,ork............................................................................124.2.2 /eason for Impact................................................................................134.2.3 Impact on Monthly Income..................................................................134.2.4 Impact on ,orking Hours....................................................................144.2.( Impact on 1ccupation..........................................................................144.2.* Impact on !ocial !ecurity 6enefit........................................................144.2." Impact on Children 2ducation.............................................................1(4.2.) Impact on aily &ood Intake................................................................1(4.2.- Impact on Housing...............................................................................1*4.2.1. Impact on Health and Medical Treatment............................................1*4.2.11 Impact on &amily /elations.................................................................1*(. !ur$ey of 2ntrepreneurs.......................................................................................1"(.1 +ny Change in 6usiness..............................................................................1"(.2 Type of eterioration in 6usiness................................................................1"(.3 Change in 7nit ,orkers...............................................................................1"(.4 Change in Production...................................................................................1)(.( Change in +$aila4ility of /a% Material.......................................................1)(.* !upport from +gencies5 1rganisation..........................................................1)*. Case !tudies.........................................................................................................1-*.1 /ukaiya4en Munna4hai !ikdi......................................................................1-*.2 8ammu Idrishi.............................................................................................1-". &indings of the !tudy...........................................................................................21). /ecommendations................................................................................................232#$ %andicraft IndustryHandicrafts are uni9ue e:pressions and represent a culture; tradition and heritage of acountry. The Handicraft Industry is one of the important producti$e sector.Handicrafts can 4e defined as products %hich are produced either completely 4y handor %ith the help of tools. Mechanical tools may 4e used as long as the direct manualcontri4utionoftheartisanremainsthemost su4stantial component ofthefinishedproduct. Handicrafts are made from ra% materials and can 4e produced in unlimitednum4ers. !uch products can 4e utilitarian; aesthetic; artistic; creati$e; culturallyattached; decorati$e; functional; traditional; religiouslyandsociallysym4olic andsignificant.#$# !he Importance of %andicrafts !he Cultural ImportanceHandicrafts play $ery important role in representing the culture and traditionsof any country or region. Handicrafts are a su4stantial medium to preser$e ofrich traditional art; heritage and culture; traditional skills and talents %hich areassociated %ith people including handicrafts are playing ma=or role in the economic de$elopmentof the country.3&$ Chikan Craft IndustryChikan is a fine art of em4roidery made %ith %hite unt%isted yarn %ith the help of aneedle on a fine cloth. It is done on $iol; silk; cam4ric; georgette; terry cotton etc. +tfirst; designs are printed on the cloth %ith %asha4le colours %hile different stitches orem4roidery %ork is done on cloth. This is a home 4ased industrial acti$ity %hich ismainly performed 4y %omen artisans and %orkers. &$# %istory of Chikan Craft IndustryThehistorical records of 1"thcenturyof 2ast IndiaCompanyre$eal that hakaproduced the fine em4roidery called ?Chikaneconomicconditionof %orkers in$ol$eintheindustry. ,hat has 4eentheimpact of the financial crisis on poor %omen and men employed direct and indirectlyin Chikan Craft industryG ,hat needs to 4e done to address the ad$erse impact onthese men and %omen %orkers 4elongings to the informal and marginalised segmentsof the %orkforceG ,hat kind of social security options can 4e made a$aila4le to poor%omenandmentocope%iththecrisistosustainhumande$elopment outcomesGThese 9uestions %ere the starting points of this en9uiry.-$# )emographic Profile of Workers-$#$# ge ,roupInthetotal sample)4percent %ere%omenrespondent and1*percent %eremenrespondent. +$erage age of men and %omen respondents together has 4een reported to4e 3. years. In that the a$erage age of %omen respondents has 4een reported to 4e 2-years andof men respondents has 4een reported to4e 3(years. Ho%e$er theproportion of middle age group %omen has 4een found significant. ge,roupMen Women !otal/o$ 1 /o$ 1 /o$ 1H 2. years 3 1- 2( 3. 2) 2)21 E 3. 4 2( 21 2( 2( 2(31 E 4. 4 2( 2" 32 31 3141 E (. 2 13 * " ) )(1 E a4o$e 3 1- ( * ) )1* 1.. )4 1.. 1.. 1.. --$#$& Caste CategoryMost of the ChikanCraft %orkers 4elongtothe 1ther 6ack%ardClass B16CCcommunity in the sur$ey (4 percent respondents 4elongs to this category. Aearly 32percent %orkers 4elong to others community; %orkers 4elong to schedule caste andschedule caste community is $ery minimal only * and 3 percent. Aearly all %orkers4elong to Muslims community are from 16C caste.Sr$ /o Caste Category 1 of Workers1 !chedule Caste *2 !chedule Tri4e 33 1ther 6ack%ard Class (-4 1thers 321..Source: Primary Survey-$#$( 2eligionChikan Craft %ork is dominated 4y Muslim community. In sur$ey also )2 percentrespondent 4elongs to Muslims community and 1* percent 4elongs to Hinducommunity respondent from other community is negligi4le only 2 percent.Sr$ /o 2eligion 1 of Workers1 Hindu 1*2 Muslims )23 1thers 21..Source: Primary Survey-$#$- !ype of FamilyAearly *2 percent sur$eyed %orkers are li$ing in =oint families %hile 3) percent areli$ing in nuclear families. The proportion of %orkers li$ing in nuclear families %asfoundhigher inMuslimcommunities. In%as alsocomeout inthefocus groupdiscussion that more than (. percent Muslims are li$ing in =oint families.Sr$ /o Caste Category 1 of Workers1 3oint &amily *22 Auclear &amily 3)1..Source: Primary Survey-$#$. Family Si3e!i0e of the family has 4een reported to 4e largeF it %as reported as high as 1( in somefamilies. Most of the respondents reported that they li$e in large families.1.Sr$ /o Family Si3e 11 2>3 132 4>( 3(3 *>" 3"4 )>- 1.( 1. > a4o$e (+$erage *Source: Primary Survey-$#$0 %ousing StatusThehousingconditions of ChikanCraft %orkers arefoundto4epathetic. Theygenerally li$e and %ork in congested; unhygienic and kachha houses. The sur$ey dataalsore$eals that nearly(.percent %orkersareli$inginsemi puccaandkachhahouses.Sr$/oStatus4!ype5achha Semi Pucca Pucca !otal/o$ 1 /o$ 1 /o$ 1 /o$ 11 1%n 1* ). 1) *. 44 )) ") ")2 /ented 4 2. 1. 33 * 12 2. 2.3 1ther . . 2 " . . 2 22. 1.. 3. 1.. (. 1.. 1.. 1..Source: Primary Survey-$#$6 Main 7ccupation of FamilyThe main occupation of family mem4ers of sur$eyed %orkers has 4een reported to 4ela4our; ser$iceandpetty4usiness. Ho%e$er; Chikancraft is4eingpracticedasasu4sidiaryoccupationto augmentfamilyincome.+mong thesur$eyed%orkers3)percent families are in$ol$e in petty 4usiness of making kites. @a4our %ork is mainoccupation of 23 percent families and Chikan Craft %ork is main occupation of 2"percent families.Sr$ /o Main 7ccupation 1 of Workers1 @a4our 232 6usiness 3)3 !er$ice "4 Chikan Craft ,ork 2"( 1thers (Source: Primary Survey11-$#$8 Working Mem"ers of the FamilyThe a$erage num4ers of %orking mem4ers ha$e 4een reported to 4e 2. In the sur$ey itcameout that in**percent families1>2mem4ersare%orkingandin31percentfamilies< 3>4 mem4ers are %orking. Sr$ /o Mem"er 11 1>2 **2 3>4 313 (>* 34 " > a4o$e .verage &Source: Primary Survey-$#$9 Monthly Income of the Family+$eragemonthlyincomeofsur$eyedfamilieshas4eenreportedto4e/s. 22(*..Aearly 4* percent families are earning less than /s 1(..5 month. Ma:imum sur$eyedfamilies are li$ing 4elo% po$erty line sho%ing high economic $ulnera4ility.Sr$ /o Income ,roup 1 1 H I 1(.. 4*2 1(.1 E 3... 2)3 3..1 E 4(.. 1)4 J 4(.. )verage &&.0:Source: Primary Survey-$#$#: 7ccupation of Worker This sur$ey is preliminary focus on understanding impact of financial crisis on theChikan Craft %orkers. In selection of sample respondents %ere strategically selectedas %orkers%ho areengagedin ChikanCraft %ork. The ChikanCraft %orkersare4roadly categories into three types of %orkers Chikan cloth processor; Chikan designimposer andChikanem4roiders. Clothprocessinganddesignimposingismainlydone 4y the male %orkers and %omen are in$ol$e in em4roidery %ork. These 4roadcategories are further di$ided into $arious su4 categories in Chikan em4roidery %orkthereare) typesof %orkers dependingon skilledle$el.ifferentspecialists %ork%ithdifferent types of stitches for e:ample; open%orkor =aali is not done4yem4roiderers %ho do the filling %ork E each %orker completes his5 her o%n %ork andthen fa4ric is sent to the ne:t em4roiderers. In selected respondents -3 percent areChikan em4roiders; 4 percent are Chikan cloth processors and 3 percent are Chikandesign imposer.Sr$ /o 7ccupation 1 of Workers1 Chikan 2m4roider -3122 Chikan Cloth Processor 43 Chikan esign Imposer 31..Source: Primary Survey-$#$## Monthly Income of Worker+$erage monthly income of sur$eyed %orkers has 4een reported to 4e /s. *21. Aearly*3 percent %orkers are earning less than /s (..5 month. Ma:imum sur$eyed %orkersare li$ing 4elo% po$erty line sho%ing high economic $ulnera4ility.Sr$ /o Income ,roup 1 of Workers1 /o income (2 ;ess than .:: *33 .:#ended9uestionnaires 4yo4taining9ualitati$e data fromtheselected %orkers. 6efore documenting case study of selected %orkers $ie%s of familymem4ers; representati$e of A'1s %ere also considered.0$# 2ukaiya"en Munna"hai Sikdi/ukaiya4en Munna4hai !ikdiF 2. yearsF 4orn 4thin her family of 13 including herfather and mother. Her elder 4rother is married and is ha$ing 2 childrenF a girl and a4oy. They ha$e 4een li$ing together in the present house 4y 4irth./ukaiya4en has studied up to -th in a municipal school. !he learns Chikan Craft %orksince %hen she %as " from her friends along %ith her studies. Her father %as a tailor4ut could not %ork no% due to lo% eyesight as a result of prolonged dia4etes.Her 4rother %ho %orks in a cycle shop earns /s 4...5 month. The other t%o 4rothers* hours a dayespecially at fine and intricate em4roidery. !he can; normally; %ork for 2>3 hours in aday. Her health is se$erely affected; her eye>sight is 4ad; she gets constant head>aches;4ack>aches and neck>aches. Her fingers are sore and e$en ha$e holes in them.@ack of opportunity; corruption in the go$ernment support system;non>payment ofdues; NplagiarismO of design and e$en products; are the main reasons for their poorcondition 8ammu complained. 2$en in this crisis condition go$ernment is not doinganything to support Chikan Craft %orkers. 6$ Findings of the Study1. The Chikan Craft Industry is one of the informal sector in India that suffersfrom a lo% producti$ity syndrome; compared to the formal sector. Preliminarysur$ey carried out to understand impact of financial crisis on %orkers re$ealedthat since 2.."; %orkers %orking in this industry %ere suffering from lo%er22real %ages and poor %orking5li$ing conditions. &urther; due to financial crisis%hich 4egan in 1cto4er 2..) had made economic condition of these %orkersmore se$ere. They ha$e 4een %orking on lo% %ages 4ut due to financial crisistheamount of%orktheyget isreduced4ynearly".percent resultingin%orsening their situation.2. Itcameout in thesur$eythatalmost all%orkers inthe Industry aregoingthroughma=or crisis. Aearly(percent %orkersarecompletely=o4less; 2"%orkers %ho %ere earlier %orking =o4 centres are %orking from home due tocloser of =o4 centres and 22 percent %orkers are no% %orking for more hours.Aearly 22 percent %orkers are undertaking more %ork to compensate decreasein piece rate. 3. &inancial crisis has se$ere impact on monthly income of %orkers. It came outin the sur$ey that 4efore crisis a$erage monthly income of %orkers %as /s-"); %hichdecrease4y33percent to/s*21aftercrisis. 6eforecrisis4)percent %orkers %ere earning /s. (.1 to 1... after crisis it gone do%n to 21percent. 1n other hand percentage of %orkers earning less than (.. increasesfrom 32 percent to *4 percent.In the sur$ey it came out that there are t%o4asic reasons for decrease income first they are not getting continuous %orkand second due to less %ork and more %orker employers are 4argaining hardto lo%er do%n price rate of %ork. 4. !ur$ey doesnstakeholders; including ci$il society organisations; go$ernment; trade unions;media; corporate sector and others.). 1ne dedicated hospital 4e set up in @uckno% and or in ad=oining area to curethe ailments afflicting the %ea$ers. 1ccupational diseases such as num4nessin the lim4s; deterioration of eyesight etc.-. CrPches and educational 5 nutritional facilities for children of %orking mothersneed to 4e esta4lished; to ensure participation of %omen and proper care oftheirchildrenduringtheira4sencefromhome. Mo4ileCrPches; %hoha$ee:perience of %orking %ith the children of the unorganised sector could 4econtacted for trainings 5 running of the centres.1.. To further understanding the needs of %omen %orkers and creation of specialena4lingmechanismstohelpfacilitatetheirroleintheindustryisneeded.!pecial fundfor%omen%orkerscouldhelpthem4ecomingeconomicallyindependent.2*