biomimetic hair shield against pollution

23
EXO-P™ BIOMIMETIC HAIR SHIELD AGAINST POLLUTION

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EXO-P™BIOMIMETIC HAIR SHIELD

AGAINST POLLUTION

Pollution is not a trend, it is a reality!!

1.2

billioncars

2.5 by 2050

1600cities

worldwide

are reporting

air pollution levels

.34.5

billions tons

CO2

emission

11

billions smoked

cigarettes

a day

7.3

billions humans8.5 by 2030

9.7 by 2050

54%live in urban

areas 66% by 2050

8-12

millionstons

plastics

a year in

oceans

55%of Chinese consumers would like

to learn more about how to protect themselves from pollution

70%of Chinese consumers are very

concerned about water pollution

In Thailand, some brands differentiate recently their haircare offering with less

mainstream claims, such as anti-ageing and anti-pollution.

ASIA

39%of US women and 20% of men use moisturizers for the anti-pollution

purpose

34%of US women and 21% of men use

anti-pollution cleansers

US

37%believe pollution has a big impact on hair appearance

BRAZIL

23%would be interested in facial

suncare products that protect the skin from pollution as well as UV

rays

52%of Italian consumers are

interested in haircare products that have anti-pollution claims

85%of Spanish consumers would like to

learn more about how to protect themselves from pollution

33%of UK women say they think the environment has an impact on the appearance of their hair

EUROPE

Source: Mintel 2017-2018

Pollution is an increasing worldwide concern!

Hair protection against pollution is on trend!

Cigarette smoke

Pollution and damage

Agriculture

Motor vehicles(Fuel exhaust)

Burning of wood, oil, grass, etc.

Wood combustion (fireplace & burning stove)

Coal/charcoal (coal stove)

Power plants & Factories

indoor

pollution

outdoor

pollution

Paint/ varnish

AIR

POLLUTION

WATER

POLLUTION

→ Cuticle damage→ Keratin damage→ Rough hair→ Dull hair

→ Premature hair loss→ Premature hair greying→ Scalp irritation and itching→ Asphyxiated scalp

Alteration of hair integrity by pollution

MAIN

AIR & WATER

POLLUTANTS

EXO-P™

BIOMIMETICHAIR SHIELD

AGAINSTPOLLUTION

HAIR

PROTECTION

• Protects keratin structure against water pollution

• Protects hair cuticle integrity from air pollution

• Improves hair glossiness

Protects hair integrity to help maintain strong

and soft hair, and provides shiny hair

• French Polynesia is a group of volcanic islands and atolls located in the Eastern South Pacific.

• Kopara is a unique ecosystem constituted of microbial mats found along atoll rims and in large ponds inside islets.

• To protect themselves from UV, pH and salinity variations, Kopara microorganisms produce unique exopolysaccharides (EPS) as a protective shield.

Exo-P™, hidden beauty from French Polynesia

*Do not contain and are not processed with ingredients manufactured with processing aids from or obtained from animal origin, animal by-products or derivatives (fibers, eggs, dairy, honey, etc…),

are not tested on animals after September 11, 2004 & are GMO-free (PCR (-) or not GMO concerned)

Environmental FootprintKey ingredient SourcingNaturalness

SUSTAINABILITY

•Key ingredient: Exopolysaccharide from Kopara (microorganisms mat) living in unique ecosystem in the rims of French Polynesian atolls

•Preservative free

•Bio-based: 100%

•ISO 16128: NOC = 100%

•Vegan compatible*

•Traceability: High visibility on supplychain

•Nagoya: Sourced in compliance with applicable biodiversity laws

•Biotechnological process: No pressure on Kopara unique marine ecosystem

•Ecotoxicological data

- Readily biodegradable

- Aquatoxicity >100mg/L

In tubo study

Chelation of heavy metals1

• Heavy metals are metallic chemical element highly reactive due to their ionic charge. They are naturalcomponent of the Earth’s crust and cannot be degraded or destroyed.

Main ones: Lead (Pb) Cadmium (Cd) Arsenic (As) Mercury (Hg) Nikel (Ni)

• Chelation is the neutralization of heavy metals by ionic binding (attraction between a negative and apositive charge)

Chelation properties of Exo-P™ EPS are the due to the presence of 25 % uronic acids (gluconic andgalacturonic acids) => interaction between metal cation and negative charge of acid functional groups ofEPS

Chelation of heavy metals

Non-reactive non-ionicstable complex

=> neutralization

Positive chargedheavy metal

Negative chargeduronic acid group

Exo-P™ neutralizes heavy metals to reduce their skin & hair toxicity

Chelation of heavy metals

In tubo test protocol

• Water solution with 5% Exo-P™ was incubated for 3 hours under agitation in the presence of 0.3 µg/mL of cadmium (Cd) or lead (Pb).

• After 3h, the concentration of the different metal was measured by flame atomic absoprtion spectrometry (FAAS) in order to determine the chelation capacity of Exo-P™

Cadmium

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

0 100 200 300 400 500 600

[Cd] eq (mg/L)

Ch

ela

ted

Cd

(m

g/g

EPS)

Lead

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

0 100 200 300 400 500 600

[Pb]eq (mg/l)

Ch

ela

ted

Pb

(m

g/g

EPS)

Exo-P™ exopolysaccharide

Neutralized lead

Exo-P™ exopolysaccharide

Neutralized

Cadmium

154 250

Water pollution protective action• Protection of keratin structure against

polluted water rich in heavy metals

1

Ex vivo studies

Air pollution protective action• Protection of cuticle integrity against

urban dust / UVs synergy

2

Evaluation of hair glossiness3

Less spotlighted, polluted water is also a true concern!

Among all the harmful pollutants of water, heavy metals bring about the most dangerous form of water pollution!

Main contaminants and sources

Pathogen

microorganisms

resulting from on-site

sanitation systems (septic

tanks, pit latrines) or

inadequately treated sewage

discharges

Organic

pollutants

such as chloroform, fats and

grease, halocarbons,

petroleum hydrocarbons,

VOC, perchlorate coming

from detergents, disinfection

by-products, food

processing waste,

insecticides and herbicides,

fuels and lubricants,

chlorinated solvents…

Macroscopic

pollution

such as trash or garbage

(e.g. paper, plastic, or food

waste) discarded by people,

nurdles, small ubiquitous

waterborne plastic pellets,

shipwrecks, large derelict

ships.

Inorganic

pollutants

such as heavy metals, sulfur

dioxide, ammonia, nitrates,

phosphates, sediments

coming from industrial

discharges and by-products,

food processing waste,

fertilizers, motor vehicles,

acid mine drainage, slash

and burn agricultures…

1

Impact of water’s heavy metals in hair

Ex vivo protocol

• Natural healthy hair locks from Asian women• 10 cycles: 1-minute immersion of hair in polluted water highly concentrated in heavy metals* or in distilled water (3 locks / condition)• Dosage of heavy metals (Lead, Cadmium, Copper) of hair fiber (inside & surface) by spectrometry (ICP/MS)

10 cycles

1min immersion in polluted

water

*Polluted water composition based on a high polluted cityLead 428 μg/L ; Zinc 3.42 mg/L; Copper 7.085 mg/L ; Cadmium 865 μg/L;Chrome 662 μg/L ; Iron 24.5 μg/L ; Mercury 1 μg/L; Silver 10 μg/L ;Calcium Carbonate 180 mg/L

NEW LMC’S

EX VIVO

MODEL! By its structural property, hair can interact with metals. What does it happen when hair is in contact with pollutedwater rich in heavy metals?

In contact with polluted water, hair fiber increases significantly its heavy metals content,

which could lead to hair structural impacts

1

Positive charge

of heavy metalNegative charge

of hair bonds

Evaluation of hair structure exposed to water pollution1

In hair, crystalline structure of keratin is a birefringent material!

NEW

TEST

METHOD!

• WHAT TO MEASURE?Birefringence = optical property of some material to divide in two thelight beam that penetrates it

• HOW TO MEASURE?K-PROBE® scanner coupled to XPolar® technology: imagery systemintegrated on a microscopy platform which analyzes birefringence bymeasuring modification of light polarization induced by the sample

Color map Resulting image

Km

axco

lor

scal

e

Optical microscopy

Experimental Kmax imagery of birefringence response

Kmax value enable the quantification of hair fiber birefringence related to keratin organization

Kmax value is calculated from intensityand polarization of reflected light and is represented by a Kmax color scale

x40

Xpolar®

x40

Xpolar®

The device emits a polarized light on the sample and collects the light reflected by a mirror under the sample

Non birefringentmaterial

Birefringentmaterial

Evaluation of hair structure exposed to water pollutionEx vivo protocol

• Natural healthy hair locks from a Caucasian woman• 30 cycles: 2-minute immersion of hair in a 0.5% Exo-P™ aqueous solution or placebo then 2-minute immersion in polluted water* (1 lock / condition)• Analysis of keratin structure by birefringence measurement with K-PROBE® polarimetric scanner (41 hair fibers / lock)

1

Short width by

color band

=

High birefringence

=

Structured keratin

Exo-P™ protects keratin against exposure to polluted water. Hair fiber structure is maintained

Placebo Exo-P™ 0.5%

Increase in

band width

=

keratin

denaturation

Exposed to polluted water

Same band width

as untreated

=

keratin structure

is maintained

Untreated

Non-exposed

Modelized

images

*Polluted water composition based on a high polluted cityLead 428 μg/L ; Zinc 3.42 mg/L; Copper 7.085 mg/L ; Cadmium 865 μg/L; Chrome 662 μg/L ; Iron 24.5 μg/L ; Mercury 1 μg/L; Silver 10 μg/L ; Calcium Carbonate 180 mg/L

Hair fiber

is protected

Hair fiber

is damaged

*p < 0.05

Significant

variation of +11%*

compared to

placebo

Product

application

Urban dust

spray

AFTER POLLUTION

Evaluation of hair cuticle exposed to air pollutionEx vivo protocol

• Natural healthy hair locks from Asian women• Application of a 0.5% Exo-P™ aqueous solution or a placebo on hair then rubbing (3 locks / condition)• Preliminary spraying of urban dust (200g/m3)• Exposure in a chamber with UVA/UVB (1 mW/cm2) + urban dust (800 μg/m3, similar to highly polluted city) for a total of 8 hours• Hair scaling observation after natural drying by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) before and after pollution

Urban dust composition PAHs, nitro-PAHs, PCB congeners,chlorinated pesticides, and inorganicconstituents (nickel copper chromiummanganese vanadium), aluminum

Particule size distributionMain size: from 1 to 100 µm - 10 µm

2

Hair scaling observation

Chamber exposure

with urban dust + UVs

Hair scaling observation

T0 8H

Exo-P™ acts as a shield to protect hair cuticle integrity from air pollution

Agglomerates

of cuticles

BEFORE POLLUTION

PL

AC

EB

OE

XO

-P™

0.5

%

Hair fiber isprotected

Hair fiberbecomes porous

Breakage of cuticles

Loss of cuticles

Undamaged and overlapped cuticles

Less cuticle

agglomerates

> Low damage

Evaluation of hair glossinessEx vivo protocol

• Natural healthy hair locks from Asian women• Application of a 0.5% Exo-P™ aqueous solution or placebo on hair then rubbing (3 locks / condition)• After natural drying, glossiness analysis with Glossymeter® GL200

2

Exo-P™ increases hair glossiness for shinier hair appearance

Glossiness evaluation

Natural

drying

Product

application

Glossiness evaluation

AGAINST AIR POLLUTION

↘ cuticle damage• ↗ hair protection• ↗ visual aspect

AGAINST WATER POLLUTION

↘ keratin degradation• ↗ fiber structure• ↗ physical strength

EXO-P™, GLOBAL HAIR CONCEPT

Exo-P™ is a biomimetic shield against pollution,

to protect hair integrity.

Exo-P™ helps maintain strong, soft and shiny hair.

PROTECTIVE SHIELD GLOSS BOOSTER

↗ hair glossiness• ↗ shiny hair appearance

Hairfulness Conditioner

Exo-P™Biomimetic shield against pollution for skin and hair

NATURE-INSPIRED AND

SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENT• Unique protective exopolysaccharides

from French Polynesian Kopara

(endemic microorganism ecosystem)

• Proprietary blue biotechnology

process

• Manufactured in French Polynesia to

maintain local economy

GLOBAL HAIR PROTECTOR• Protects keratin structure against

water pollution (heavy metals)

• Protects hair cuticle integrity against

air pollution (urban dust + UVs)

• Improves hair glossiness

SKIN MULTI-PROTECTION

AGAINST POLLUTION• Reduces skin adhesion of PM2.5

• Chelates heavy metals

• Fights free radical activity

• Decreases hydrocarbon- & heavy metal-

induced damage

MANUFACTURER BENEFITS• Aligned with sustainable trends

• Unique story-telling

• Global pollution new approach: air and

water pollution protection

• Multi-applications: efficient on skin & hair

CONSUMER BENEFITS Skin benefits

• Protects and cleans immediately skin

• Fast action in 7 days only!

• Purifies asphyxiated, dull and devitalized skin

• Provides a luminous and healthy-looking skin

• Prevents pollution-induced irritation and

premature aging

Hair benefits

• Protects hair from air and water pollution

• Helps maintain strong and soft hair

• Boosts hair shine

INCI NAME Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract

ADDITIVE None

APPEARANCE White to off-white viscous solution

FORMULATION Incorporation at the end of the formulation at a temperature below 40oC

DOSAGE Skin care: 1-3 %Hair care: 0.5-1 %

OPTIMUM PH 4-8

APPLICATIONS Skin care • Protective care• Anti-pollution care• Detoxifying care• Urban skin care• City defense care• BB,CC, DD care

Hair care • Anti-pollution hair care• Hair defense care• Protective hair care• Anti-aging hair care• Damaged hair care

PRODUCT INFORMATION

Good safety profile

TOLERANCE STUDIES• Cytotoxicity - Exo-P™ tested at concentrations from 4,57x 10-4 g/L to 1g/L

• Eye Irritation (HET-CAM) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested

• Skin irritation (48-hour single patch-test ) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested

• Sensitization (HRIPT) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested

• Mutagenicity (AMES - OECD 471) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested

• Phototoxicity (3T3 NRU test - OECD 432) - 100% Exo-P™ tested

ECOTOXICITY• Easy biodegradability (OECD 301D) - 100% Exo-P™ tested

• Aquatic toxicity on daphnia (OECD 202) - 100% Exo-P™ tested

• Aqua toxicity on freshwater alga and cyanobacteria (OECD 201) - 100% Exo-P™ tested

THANK YOU!