COURSE- BDFTSEMESTER-II

SUBJECT- DRAFTING & PATTERN MAKING

UNIT- IIITOPIC- PATTERN MAKING

TERMS

Pattern Making

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components

pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes condensed to the one-word Patternmaking but it can also be written pattern making or pattern cutting.

Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making involves three methods-

Drafting

Draping

Flat paper patternmaking

Drafting

It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.

Draping

It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making

Flat Pattern Making

: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form. Five basic pattern pieces are used for women's clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women's styles fluctuate frequently..

Fashion Pattern Making Term

1. First pattern- The first pattern is original pattern developed for each design. This pattern is generally made from Marking Paper & usually requires fitting and adjustment, half a pattern is developed. An asymmetrical design requires a full pattern.

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Production Pattern- The production pattern is a pattern set that has been corrected & without error. The pattern must contain every pattern piece. Required to complete the garment. The pattern are used by the grader for grading sizes and by the marker maker for a fabric layout. A pattern chart is placed in front of the set.

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Marker Maker- The Marker Maker’s responsibility is to lay the production patterns on marking paper so that there is little waste of fabric. Pattern sizes are often mixed on the marker to prevent waste. The marker is pencil marked, photo marked, or done on a computer.

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Balance Line Term

Plumb Line- A vertical line that is at right angles with the floor. Used to determine the balance of the figure.

Perpendicular line- A straight line at right angles to another line.

Vertical Line- A line that is straight up & down.

Horizontal Line- A straight line parallel with the floor.

Right Angle- The 90 degree angle formed by two intersecting lines, referred to as a squared line.

Symmetrical line- A center fine with equal proportions on either side of it.

Balance- The perfect relationship between parts that when combined, form a unit (or whole) in which each part is in exact proportion and harmony with all others.

Balancing a pattern- Finding and adjusting the differences between joining patterns parts to improve the hang and fit of the garment.

Horizontal Balance Line- A Reference to any line marked around the form that is parallel with the floor. Pattern are also marked with horizontal balance lines squared from the center lines representing the crosswise grain when the garment is cut in fabric. The HBL lines help when balancing the patterns.

Bust Point- A designated place on the bust and pattern and referred to in flat patternmaking as the pivotal Point or apex.

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Dart- A wedge shaped cut out in a pattern to control the fit of a garment.

Dart Leg- The two lines converge at a predetermined point on the pattern.

Dart & dart Leg

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Selvedge- is a self-finished edge of fabric. The selvages keep the fabric from unraveling or fraying. The selvages are a result of how the fabric is created.

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Grain line. This thread runs the entire length of the fabric and is parallel to the selvage. When you place a pattern on the fabric, you align the pattern’s grainline with the fabric’s lengthwise grain. Unless otherwise noted, grain or grain line generally refers to the lengthwise grain.

The line of fabric that moves at a right angle to the crosswise grain is the lengthwise grain line.

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The line of thread moving from selvage to selvage is called weft.

True Bias is an invisible line that’s at a 45 degree angle to the crosswise and lengthwise grain. It has a good deal of stretch. When garments are cut on the bias, they hug and move easily with the body. Fabric for spaghetti straps, bias binding and cording are also cut on the bias.

References

1. http://thecuttingclass.com/post/3599880487/patternmaking-cut-and-spread-darts

2. http://www.appareldesignpartners.com/?page_id=55

3. http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/what-is-a-marker/

4. http://www.sew2pro.com/tag/pivot-method/5. http://curly-qsandcouture.blogspot.in/6. http://sewingschool.org/2011/03/06/selvage/7. http://www.quiltviews.com/don%E2%80%99t-

let-your-selvage-languish

Thank you