applied pattern making

8/13/2019 Applied Pattern Making

1/217Publ

icDomain,Google-digitized

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athitrust.org/access_

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Applied pattern designing, illustrated; based on the patternmaking methods

of Abram Mayer. Developed and written by Herbert Mayer; technical

assistance in compiling the text by Allyne Bane. Illustrated by Eleanor

Harrington and Eve Stockhold.

Mayer, Herbert, 1913-

[New York] Mayer Pub. Co., c1950.

http://hdl.handle.net/2027/coo.31924059249965

Public Domain, Google-digitized

h t t p : / / w w w . h a t h i t r u s t . o r g / a c c e s s _ u s e # p d - g o o g l e

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I V ER S T

PublicDomain,Google-digitized

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SA ,


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ary


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D ES G N I N G

a ingmethodsof

o fF ashionDesign,

edleindustriesin

ortyyears.

E , M. A.

conomics, OhioUniversity

R I N G TO N a nd EV E ST O C K H O L D

opy right1950MayerPublishingC o.


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smhasbeen renderedbyteachersonthestaffof C hicSchoolofF ashion

ledgmentismadetoGertrudeV orshirm, MarieL indsey , L il lyB arte lme, and

pfulsuggestionsandcriticisms.


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O U R SE -c on t d

artintoStyleL inesorGathers

GE

r27

WaistGathers29

heNec 31

traF ullness

rF ront33

ec line35

tingtheB ac Darts

ShoulderDart37

c Dartf romShouldertoNec 39

c s41

w i t h Ga t he r s 43

a n d I n v e rt e d B o P l e at 4 5

4 7

h B a c 4 9


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O U R SE -c on t d

GE

rf 8 7

9

s

andShapedWaistband91

ne/93

l ea t s 97

terns

dWaistl ineandUnpressedP leats103

dgeP leatEffect107

r t 10 9

3


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O U R SE -c on t d

GE

..115

17

ns(Slopers)

dSleeveSloper121

SleeveSloper126

htSleeveSloper127

nce129

3

ew ithGatheredC ap135

ew ithDartedC ap137

hGatheredC ap139

ttedSleevew ithGatheredC ap143


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O U R S E-c ont d

GE

l l a r 1 47

48

thSlightR o ll149

ar151

ible)C o llar153

ar158

ighF ittedW ristband159

61

ittedB louseS/ oper(w ithanunderarmdart)163

ittedB louseSloper(w ithoutanunderarmdart)165


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O U R S E-c ont d

GE

ithT ieC o llar167

/ o u s e wi t h F r o n t Tu c i n g 16 9

w it h Y o e 1 7 1

pB uttonedY o e173

rns

Dressw ithA ssymetricC losing175

Midrif fSection181


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N

eoriginaland instinctiveapproachto

simplytowrapmaterialaboutthe shoulders,allowing

body,andbindingit aroundthewaist.This

gwasusedinsuch costumesastheGrecianR obeand

nstructionevolvedthrutheagesuntilit

heintricatedesignsoftheParis coutouriers.Altho

hodit isq uitetime-consumingandre uires

e Seventeenthcenturythepracticeof

heta ilo r ss uarecameintousebutitfa iledto

tyinthe womens fashionfieldduetoits difficulty

s. I t issti l lpopularonstapletypesofmen sand

chchangeonlyslightlyfrom yeartoyear.

entury,progressivepatterndesignersin

,begantostreamlinedrapinganddraftingmethods.

vedmethodofpatternma ingpopularlyk nowninthe

method . Manyhomedressma ersw houtil izeabasic

stylesare unconsciouslyusingthissamemethod.The

sfullycombinedtheuseofthe sloperorfoundation

rafting,toproducea systemofpatternma ingthat

ple. I t isbasedonthee perienceofMr. A . Mayerin

original patternsformanufacturersand

tuniversallywithinthe industryby

tternma ers.Throughthesimplifieduseof thebasic

sibletoma epatternsofanysty lequic lyand

efromthesloper mustconformtothebasicfit of

hegreatadvantagesof thissystemofma ing

hichis verytime-consuming,ispractically

eMayerMethodproduces amoreaccurateand

nsiderabletimein ma inganoriginalgarment,

mtailo rsarealsousingthemethode tensive ly . Notonly is

a ingandcuttingofgarments,but thereisalsoa

fittingsandalterations,sincethebasicsloper

each patternmustconformtothebasic pattern,

particular stylefitsessentiallythesameasthe

wasmade.Thisassuresauniformfit forallstyles.

atternsformanydifferentreasons.Patterns

onof q uantitiesofidenticalgarments.Theyare

samestyle atalaterdate.Patternsare usedfor

onofyardagesof material.I nfact,itmaybe

ctionof clothingcouldnotbecarried outwithout

ofthiscourseis toteachthema ingofpatterns

lustrationors etch. A secondaryob ective isto

atternf romanygarment. I nmasteringthesethingsthe

earnmanyoftheprinciples offitting.

ublishingC o229W ert34St. New Y or 18. N. Y


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EO F TH EDAR T

EO F

I A TO

O N TO UR S

O R M

P O P ER

O F TH E

E OF TH E

L O W I N G

L S ER V E

ETH E

T H I S

paper

m . N o t e

om

f r om

and

hside

pper

sa lso

R T . T he

paper.

rm

tbegins

the

-

es

D A R T .

r Pu b li s hi n u C o 3 M W U


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R O N T B O D C E

B L E M

L D A R T .

derpadswillbe

eused with

.

houlderpadallow-

relesson.

,

.

htmuslin

t

d

ine,

out

n

e

d

er

slin

ne.

u st l ow

d

a n d


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R O N T B O D C E

am.

ard

e

til

ce f rom

ar

f rom

a

e

o

must

pending

ect

ss

TR O L

are-

line


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A C K B O D C E

B L E M

shoulderpadsw illbe

onwillbe usedwith

.

honlderpadallow-

t

mof the

er

e

rt.

ndpin

it

inate

e

e

ard

ndover

.

la t.

n

etweeri

pin

ne.

t it

rv-

de o f t he

pe-PublicDomain,Google-digitized

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A C K B O D C E

d

t

ole

he

h

n

ne.

wn

ea

side

m.

u sl

ouldi

de C

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T TE DS E EV E S O P ER

t h e

ar a

m H .

e

om P .

t

ng

w nward

n

ndC .

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T TE DS E EV E S O P ER

using

ih

e

.

ngth

he

M)

n gt h

o

s

nL

.

Mto

p

.

ever,

e

se

er

d

n


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TTEDS EEV ES O PER

bodicew ithC F andC B onfo ldedpiece

eamallow ancetoa llbutnec and

tsandright sideseam.Stitchleft

ofwaistlineedge.Slashcenterfront

bout5 . C utoutsleevepatternadding

allbutwrist edge.Stitchdart.Stitch

4 o f low eredge.

mhole.withunderarmseaiss

otchof sleevecapatshoulde

theupperhalf ofthesleevecap

slargerthanthebodicearmhole

eve capmustbeeasedin the

snecessaryfor freedouo

body.Thereshouldbenotwisti nthesleeve thereshouldbenodiagonalwrin les.The

allalongthe bodyelbowline.Theloweredgeofthe sleeveshouldreachj ustbelowthebendof

dbe snugbutlargeenoughtopermit bendingtheelbow.Thecapofthe sleeveshouldfit

es.Thecapmustbe sufficientlywideandlongtopermitnaturalmovementofthe armandbody

sleeveorthebodice.

stobema le , pin-f ita tthist ime. C arefully transfera llcorrectionsf romthemuslinto

patternshouldhe mndeinPUS1 inandtestedagain.

eatedlyand

pin heavyweight

ands irtslopers.

elbowdart.

rainline.

rontandat3

eevecapcurve

ongthecurve).

ebac j ust

dindistinguish-

dthebac curves.

oleedgeoffrontuodicesloper

curvee actly3 upf romside

armholeedgeofbac sloperin

Thesenotchesmatchthecorrespond-

rPublishingC o229West34St. N ew Yor 19. N


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A G H T S E E V E S O P ER

E T C H - T h e up p er p o rt i on o f t he s t ra i gh t

ttedsleevesloper.

owever,inthatit isnot

m andwrist.

B L E M T h e ca p o f th e s tr a ig h t sl e ev e i s

ittedsleeve.

tendsdownward(inabo form)

wrist.

hee lbow , thebac lengthof

reaterthan thefrontlength.

ttedsleeveonaV neetofpaper

dthecenterline.

asshown.

gth(sees etchinB o 1).

cepslineatpo intsA andB ,

a lto theunderarmlength.

eC andD.

nwardtoe actly thecentero f

B C Disthebasisforthestraight

tisaperfectrectangle .

a s s no w n.

ndofcenterline.

ow midpo into f l ineC E.

ovethemidpo into f l ineED.

inthes etch.

vebetweenC andDthruthe

e lengthismadeshorterthanthe

rline.

r line.

measinLessonQ l.

ypaperso theslopercanbe


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A L O W A N C E

U D ER L I N E

M EN T

ETC H -Theshoulderpadraisestheshoulderat

alsowidensthe shoulderlinebecause

beyondtheshoulder.

B L E M T h e sh o ul d er e d ge o f t he b o di c e sl o pe r

ndedtoacconmodatethepad.Thesleeve

esameamount.

erPads-Shoulderpads canbeclassified

s uareorrounded

suit,dressorblouse

ow ingas uareandaroundshoulderpad. I f

gulationarmhole,a s uarepadis

sa raglansleeveoradroppedshoulder,

coatpadcoversagreater surface

nthe padforanyothergarment.N ote

surfaceand heightofthepadbecomes

asuit, adressandablouse. I t is

day smar etaccordingtotheabove

o u nd e d dr e ss p a d , " s u a re c o at p a d ,

etc. Hoststorescarryacharto fpadtypes

tweenpointX andthenotchonboth

show n. C hec thiscurvecarefully

O TE: Whenagarmentistohaveapad,

emadeonthebodice sloperbefore

ignitse lf. Thenotchesmustbee tended

bodicesloperonasheetof

lderlines1/2 asshown. Mea-

tobeused(an average

inhe ight). A ddthepadheight

r ingpo intX toapo int

oulderlineasshow n. Thisis

eron asheetofpaper.

thepadtothe capofthe

tdirectly abovethecenter

holecurvefromthispoint

fthesleevecap anddraw

henotchonthebac ; use

guidefordrawingthe

w curvecarefully forevenessof

pofthe straightsleevesloper

thissamemethod.


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E T C H - Th i s is a p l ai n

sleeve.I t

ew rist. I t is

vesloper

B L E M T he s tr ai gh t

tened.6

ba inedbyslash-

vesloper.

esloper.

mseamlines4

abovethe

bottomof

hesto

arallelto

mlower

edgeatcap

new sheet

untilthey

w eredge.

or ing

redge.

line.

a inline.

per.

oweredge

ceatlow er

ncetoall

eredgeof

wrendsof

estoedges

V


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E

E TC H - T hi s is a f ul l

ap. There

weredgeand

to fita

s lesson

ypesof

U B L E M E t ra w id th m us t

ge by

tbemade.

esloper.

de of

neand

capofthe

along

owithin

anew sheet

untilthey

w eredge.

ngscanbespread

traw idthas

moreinthe

or ing

per.

oweredge

edges.

o fpattern.

e lS EEV E.

terninhalf

underarm

erof sleeves.

becomethe

eeve

suitable

ainlineof

ecrease

tothe

ntheunder-

nlineas

ne.

thebac

leeve

S t . N e w Y o r I 8 , N . Y .


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E

ER L AP

Drawa rec-

desiredf i-

band.

f thetota l

s shown.

toa llow

ttonho lenar as

redgeand

show n.

1/2 f rom

f romrightend.

edges.

o fpattern.

andatends

lapline

b l W R I S T B A N D .

gprocessthenotch

atchedto

grainline

psleeves

there

ope

yslash

3/4

ere

v

bou

bac

t

edbisho

n th

slas

nt

ebac

urv

n

to2

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DS E EV E W I T H GA TH E R E DC A P

E TC H - T he b od y of t he

ethef itted

thered

ers.

B L E M E t ra w id th a nd

s)mustbeob-

evewithout

eeve.

oper.

)asshow n.

ofbicepsline .

Dfrompoints

nline .

otchesoncap

ra inline .

sbemar edonthebo-

osition.

apas shown.

bodyof

biceps

yslash ing

grainline.

sheet.

upperedgeof

4po inttopoint

eandspread

eachopening

edge.

fthe wor ing

per.

urveatcapofsleeve

n.

notchesfor

hatthe ori-

sbeenincreased

about11/ 2to1

edges.

o fpattern.

wrendsof

dart.

E .

bl i sh i ng C o . 2 2 1 W * s t 3 4 St . N e w Y o r 1 8 , N Y .


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E W I T H G AT H ER E D C A P

E TC H - T he c ap o f th e

se tra

d thelower

ristband.

B L E M ' E t ra wi dt ha nd

eobtained

traw idth

weredge.

.

esloper.

asshown.

ofbiceps

Dfrom

ideofgra in-

ofsleeve

ra inline .

sinLessonR 3

sloperas

esson.

rdoneinthe

aightorfitted

because

reidentical.

fthe

per.

urveatcapof

achsideof

enlyasshown.

owingsteps

sinsteps7

t S t. N e w Y o r I S , N . Y .


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161/217

attern.

edges.

so fpattern.

E R S E EV E .

tern.

ine .

esloper.

weredgeand

swith the

cessary toma e

bside.of

enlyas

e.

within

ecap.

new sheet.

uallyuntilthecurvedmeasure-

e ua ls(e actly)themeasurement

f thelowersleeve(seestep6).

r ingsloper.

per.

ve atloweredgeasshown.

edges.

o fpattern.

S E E V E .

werendofgrainlinew illmatch

fthelowersleeve.

r Pu b li s hi n g C o . 2 21 W e s t 3 4 St . N e w Y o r I 8 . N . '


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S E EV E

E T C H - T h e sl e ev e h as

pperhalfof

thesleeve

endofthe

at theupper

tofit snugly

B L E M E t ra w id th a nd

smistbeobta ined

sleeveabove

eslopermust

.

oper.

mthe low eredge

ichparallels

ctiontoshorten

thecapon

two6 po ints

achsideof

catethe

each

hown.

linesand

anew sheetof

sevenlyon

e. Thethree

spreade ually

dbeabouta

centerline.

ve asshown.

ners ofthetwo

utoff bythe

higherpuff,

he upper

d.

sloper.

A N L I N E

r. n


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E T C H - Th e s le e ve i s v er y

eupperand

B L E M T he s tr ai gh t

tenedto

epsline . The

dspreadto

esloper.

asshown.

cepsline .

hsideof

neas

shesbegin

fthe

weredge11/ 2

sshown.

wn.

ingalong

ne.


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166/217

O L L A R

E TC H - T he n ec l in e of

thesloper

onthe

diceandis

rounded

B L E M T he i ns id e or

armustbe

ce

ne of

thatthe

fof the

F on

bac

lderlines

dgeandover-

mholeedge.

ouldere tends

ofthe

heshoulders1/ 2

rveslightly

lineedge

flatter

o f thebodice .

very

o wn o n C F l i ne

t21/2 dow non

curvethat

ge.

easuredetermines

ar,but

ower

f thecollar

bedrawn

step 9

ortion.

rtioni n

ofpaper

e .

edges.

per.

tside of

l ineandnotch

L A R .

henec edge

eC F andC B

ayof a

rmhas


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C O L L A R

E TC H - T he n ec l in e of

andconestoa

eslopernec line .

onthe

dice .

theshoulder

d o wn t h e ba c .

B U E M T he i ns id e or

lla rmustbe

odicenec line .

ne must

ris1

randsothat

he b a c .

front

onstra ight

bac

lderlines

dgeandover-

mholeedge.

n on C F I J L n e .

l ineasshow n.

g th e c ol l ar p a tt e rn

oper are

eastheyare

ne, becausethe

garment

e d ge .

wn o n C B l i ne .

tB across

ar p o in t C .

rl ine l f rom

er.

B C topo intD.

b e yo n d th e n ec

edge1/ 4 f rom

tonothing

he n e c l i ne e d ge

than

ebodiceand

ugfitfor

rtion

na

larscanbe

nec lines.

stbeestab-

dge of

ofpaper

ofsheet.

edges.

per.

tside of

l ineandnotch


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A R W I T H S I G H TR O L L

E T C H - T h e ne c l i ne o f t he b o di c e is r o un d

ne .

thenec lineandthenrolls

wide(itloo snarrowerbecause

eendsare roundedinthe

B L E M T h e in s id e o r ne c l i ne e d ge o f t he

nformtothebodicenec line.

ne mustbedrawnsothat

ef rontendsmustbeshapedto

h.

fof

the

geofsheet.

8 a t C F .

bac

rlines

geand

rmholeedge.

P E O F T H E

D O R R O L L :

rs

-

dice .

ce.

he

;

.

o n C F l i ne

t3 dow non

curve

edge.

o f the

e s e t ch t o d e-

rve.

bedrawn

step 9

ortion.

rtioni n

ofpaper

ofsheet.

edges.

per.

t

l ineandnotch

L A R .

efora

erthe


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T ED C O L L A R

E T C H - T h e ne c l i ne o f t he b o di c e is r o un d

ne .

thenec lineandthenrolls over

higherthantherolled PeterPan

oo snarrowerbecauseofthe

arepointedin front.

O B L E M T h e co l la r m us t b e dr a ft e d in s u ch a

gemeasuresthesameasthe bodice

uchstra ighter.

hecollarthemorethe collar

essonS3, B o 3.

ndbac slopernec

tstogethertoobtainthe

urement(about7 insize

EASUREMEN T

hof the

de .

redwidthof the

dasshow n.

gleDE Gas

e y on d E .

heendof

sshown.

a esapo intat

ua lpartsby

cedslashlines

within

tof paper

ofsheet.

g1/ 4 .

heslashesisto

reflatly

per.

atupperedge.

edges.

sideol

l ineandnotct

L A R .

blishingC o. 229W tMSt. N ew Y or I 8. N . t


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V E R T B L E) C O L L A R

E T C H - Th e n ot c he d e f-

nga collar

ngbac

dicefront.

sionbeyondthe

forover-

ront.

terfront

.

B L E M T he b od ic e is

th a 3 / 4 e -

n sucha

dgeisa lmost

heends

ofthe

heforegoing

rthenec -

more

ld be

thecolla r

amountof

curvethatis

ec linecurve

lor stand.

edon

lstand)

isadded

causethe

artoro llo r

AC K N EC K L I N E

hefront

easurementsof the

e ss 1 / 8 .

slength

widthfrom

Easshow n.

o narrow er

il lstand

eyondE.

f thee -

o formpoint

oreorlesspo inted

tendedany

apercanbe

pj udgethe

he bac

endline

shown.

atlineB F w asdrawn

measurement.

/8 longer

eorethefinished

emeasurement

e.


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A R

E TC H - Th e

2

ec -

bac .

B L E M T he

ar

the

er. The

e

ernee

).

e d ge

boveD.

entE.

seam-

git

ea

/2

r, and

;

abrics.

up-

G

er

b e -

t h ru .

per.

l la r

l ineas

D L I N E , C B . a nd

onlapel

the

d

r

om t h e

a t t he

-

rom

1 1 n e

along

e


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176/217

L L A R

E TC H - T h en ec l in e

ose

c line .

wide

c edgeof

B L E M T h ec ol la r

mthe

e.

11/ 4 w ide

ecenter

sual 3/4

ndbac

addthemea-

ainthe

ementwhich

hof the

w ide.

desiredw idth

w illbe

show n.

line .

I N E a ss ho wn .

but

L A R .

rnon a

hC B on

f

he ends.

attheC F ,

form.

edge

of the


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A N DC O L L AR

E TC H - T h en ec l in e

close

c line . The

de. It stands

thenec

B L E M Th e c ol l ar m u st

edge.

fatthetop

. Theends

meetat the

sual 3/4

ndbac

ddthemeasure-

hehalf

nt.Thismeasure

E N T

hof the

w ide. L abelone

ntof the

hown,by

rvef romthe

r.

shown.

within

fo ldedsheet

o ldedgeofsheet.

/ 16 . P inin

of theco lla r

t the

thenec .

r ing

edges.

per.

tside

ra inlineonC B

L L A R .

er P u bl i sh i ng C o . I l l W e s t 34 S t . N e w Y o r I I , N . Y .PublicDomain,Google-digitized

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W I TH H I G H F I T TE DW R I S TB A N D

E TC H - T he re i s a3

chedtoa

deslightly

hewrist-

areplaced

ustabove

B L E M T he s le ev e is

in L esson

aw idercuf f

t the

emustbe

e inR 2. L oo

the

step2of that

a ethe

y itw asmade

hru6.

esloper.

e low eredge

onformswith

portion.

n each

elto

heslashlines

henotches

E

tted

weredgeand

sto the

hlow erlines,

achline

o points.

dbac as

mlow eredge

n.

atthe lower

neasshow n.

ctionsona

rmlines

tsmatching.

Mar under-

per.

e d ge f o r

eredge1

llowanceto

. L abe l

tted

p2 f rom

e whichcon-


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W I TH H I G H F I T TE DW R I S TB A N D

nterof

r.

the

6 o f low er

new sheet

g3/8 . P in.

ossslash

ine.

per.

ateachend.

tended

eredge1

po into f the

tcan b

upperedgemor

end, asdesired.

edges.

aeachend

mlineand

olemar .

. C u t o ut p a tt e rn .

ine.

weredge

derarmlines

undwrist,

.

ttonsshouldbeused

PublishingC o. 221W est36St. New Y or IS,


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E F I T TE D B L O U SE S O P E R ( wi th a nu nd er ar m da rt )

E T C H - A b l ou s e sl o pe r

shown.Altho

ewaistline

he wearer

wingthe

d,theamount

mum. There

of thef ront

c oneach

sabac

der.The

below thef ront

ow thebac w aist.

B L E M T he l ar ge w ai st

tw ofc orV

emustbe

rallelto

oplaceit

ainline,(Unless

tsloper).

to3 looser

deseamonthe

itching.

sloper.

ntofdart

e . Slasha long

ofpo into f

arestthe

ofpo into f

ction as

at theside

pininthisposit ion.

nanew sheet

bout12 by

stra ightedgeof

eseamdow n

below the low er

w ay from

ectionof

hepara llell ine

t.

tlowerendof sideseam

he5 mar crossestheparalle l

nthisposit iondraw a5 ling-

ll ine , s uarea lineabouthalf -

mtheendof thiss uaredline ,

hecenterf rontedge.

sloper.

a6 l ine . Mar po intsonthis

' respectively . Draw para lle ll ines

he loweredge,andto1 above

ment,measuretheloweredge

w hichistobeta enoutby

ef ina lhipmeasureshouldbebetween

rsize12).


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184/217

F I T T ED B L O U S E S O P E R ( w it h ou t a n un d er a rm d a rt )

E T C H - T h e bl o us e s lo p er s h ow n i n th e

an thesloperwithanunderarm

ghitdoesnotf itq uiteasw ellas

nV I , it isneverthe lessused

opularpriceblousemanufacturersas

massproduce.

B L E M T h e la r ge w ai s t da r t mu s t be r e -

sw hichmeasuref rom54 toV

ionfromwaistto armholemust

(paralleltothecenterfront

terapid stitching.Thebust-

ooserthanthebodice sloperand

3 to4 looserthanthebodice

ntofeaseaffordedwillvaryfor

memorizingthemeasurementsis

udentshouldlearnthe principles

gthereasonsforeachstep.

thesideseamisparalle lto thecenter

maybeomitted.

o f thearmholeoutabout54 , curv -

omtheendof thise tensiondraw

to thewaistline.

sparalleltothe centerfront.

aslashlinepara lle lto the

d1&" aw ay f romit.

loperusingthenew seamline. Slash

stlinetowithin 1/16 ofarm-

ededgesuntil thesideseambe-

r front,andpinlappededges

nanew sheetofpaperabout12

tra ightedgeof thesheet.

ow nanaddit iona lV t , (topermit

mwithoutdrawingthewaistline

irttooreadily ). Mar po intP

centerf ront.

ittingthedart andwaistline.

per. R oundoutthehighspotonthe

romthesideseame tendingthe

dgeofthesheet.Placethe

rendof sideseamandpivot

ar crossestheparalle ll ine

anddraw the5 line .

l ine , s uareashortl ineabout

romthehalfwayendofthe

anotherlinetothecenterf ront.

hehalfwaypoint.

P ub l is h in g C o . 2 2 9 W t 3 4 S t . N e w Y o r I 8 , N . Y .


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nallow ing1 e traatthe lower

forseams,attheshoulderand side

t h e C F e d ge a t p oi n t P. M a r o f f

3 . 1 /2 . 1 . a n d 1/ 2 ; f o r a

f f po i nt s a t 3 . 3 / 4 . 1 , a n d 3/ 4 .

fourpointsdowntothe

e linesupwardfor1 abovethepo ints.

sheetof papermeasuringabout

C B onthestra ightedgeof thesheet.

se tended, e tendthebac arm-

awanewside seamlinewithits

mtheoriginalside seamend,and

ginalsideseam,(shouldmeasure

efrontseamline).

fromthenewsideseamlineand

tothebottomof thesheet.

po into f theruleratlow er" end

otheruleruntilthe5 mar crosses

the5 line .

ines uareashortl ineabout

. F romthehalfw ayendof the

anotherlinetothecenterbac .

gleattheha lfwaymar .

lowerthantheoriginal.

ow thedartsends.

themiddleof thew aistdart

ngingitdownasfarasthe lower

mthelowerendof thisline,draw

dot. E tendtheendsof thetwo

eepingthe1 e tensionspara lle lto

loperleavingabout1 o fpaper

allowing(A seamsattheshoulders

andbac slopers. P inthef rontandbac seamlinestogether. Testonform. I fpossible ,

rthefullform (thehalfformwillnot permitittodrapenormally).

PublishingC o. 121W est34St. New Y or I 8. N.


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E WI T H T E C O L L A R

E T C H - T h e b lo u se b u tt o ns

owaisttuc s

Thebac has

sttuc . The

ndcollar

piece).The

aincuff.

B L E M T he b lo us e fr on t

tensionfor

erpadallow-

ont, bac , and

made.A

facingmustbe

made.

without

sonV 2),on

severa linches

t.

atf rontedge

,havingthe

henec edgeand

thew aistl ine.

ce

usedfor

c edge1

eedge4

edges.

F .

l inesto

olemar s.

perforations

U SE F R O N T .

,frontand

dB L O USE

r the

nec edge.

sshown

iveninthe

tocenter

N T F A C I N G .

operona

onstra ight

ceason the

marmhole .


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E WI T H T E C O L L A R

g:

p at te rn .

warectangle20

dasshown.

c edgemeasurementof

wllmeettheshoulder

ec edgemeasure-

.

t ionof thetiecolla r

.

iethebowatthe

blouseonlyas

enotch, (seestep3),

thebowitself.

l lbutC B edge

O L L A R .

gprocessthef rontC UUE>

gthwiseandstitched

rnedrightsideout

tbej oinedtothe

whichis1/21 over

bper.

for

mlinewith

ce(see

ase tended

and6), e -

ponding

asshown.


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L O U SE W I T H F R O N T T UC K I N G

E T C H - T h e bl o us e h as

chsideof the

3/4 apart.

theoutside

e.Theblouse

ere isaro lled

eves,shaped

B L E M T he b lo us e fr on t

ancefortuc s.

ningmustbeadded

w ancemadefor

edge. Shoulder

deonthe front

: c -i :- > - -

ralinches

esloper.

ng e d ge .

themeasure-

ch m a e t w o

enlinesas

nesrepresentthe

e nearest

creasetothe

inposition.

insamemanner.

tanunder-

, overtuc ed

tedgeof sheet.

inginthe

sloper.

ce.Addseam

ceptcenter

sttuc l ines

dicatefo ldonC F .

pattern. N otch

f tuc l ines

sofwaist

L O U S E F R ^ O N T .

peronasheet

era linchesf rom

shoulder

nner.Adda

forbuttoning. A dd

about21/ 2

ongthis

r Pu b li s hi n g C o . 2 29 W e s t 3 4 St . N e w Y o r 1 8 N . Y .


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L O U SE W I T H F R O N T T UC K I N Q

allowances

sionline . A dd

ainingedges.

ndperforations

onho lesinusua l

ne1/2 be low

andthe low est

ine spaceevenly.

ngfolded

ofC B linew ith

pattern

colla r,

S3.

fwide

c endsw ill

outthecollar

f paper.

dd seamallow-

tpattern.

L A R . N O T E i n s e wi n g,

dgeof theco lla r

ulderseamof

f thecollar

asfacing.

per.tra

applied pattern making

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