background of formation of the historical scenic beauty of ......to heian-kyo only after 10 years....
TRANSCRIPT
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Background of formation of the historical scenic beauty of Kyoto
1 Geography, climate and weather of Kyoto
Kyoto is located in the south of Kyoto
Prefecture, surrounded by Mt. Hiei and
Higashiyama mountain range on the
east, Mt. Atago and Kitayama mountain
range on the north and the western
mountains. In the west, valleys of Saga
and Arashiyama are formed on both
sides of Hozu River. The south is open,
leading to Osaka Plains.
Kyoto basin, which is surrounded by
rolling hills on three sides, is used to be
at the bottom of a lake some ten
thousand years ago. Earth and sand
from mountains from north and east
have piled up and was uplifted forming
the basin, sloping mildly from north east
to south west. The ponds of Shinsen-en,
Midoroga-ike and Ogura-ike are said to
be remnants on the bottom of primeval
lake. The former two ponds still exist today while Ogura-ike was drained.
Another precious remnant of the lake is the high quality underground water arteries
which were used to support the basis of industries and cultures of Kyoto such as the
development of tea ceremony, gardening design, Yuzen dyeing, Sake brewing and other
food products.
In Kyoto basin, the limpid streams of Kamo River and Katsura River which, originate
from the surrounding mountains, mildly flow down through the urban area of the city
toward south. Since the beginning of Heian-kyo, rich green mountains and limpid
waters, later called “Purple Mountains and Clear Water” have formed the frame of the
historical climate cultivated during 1200 years of history.
Kyoto has two types of climate, one is the pacific front type and the other is the inland
type. It has four distinct seasons, summers being hot and humid while winters are
chilly to the bone. This is the fate of living in the basin. In such a rigid and diverse
weather, Kyoto has cultivated season awareness and consciousness for beauty since a
long time. They have loved the sense of beauty called “Flower, Bird, Wind and Moon”
西山
東山
北山
鴨川
桂川
Fig1-1 Topography of Kyoto
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and “Snow, Moon and Flower” in passing seasons. They have conducted a number of
events while missing a season passing by.
Meanwhile, intense humidity in summer has obvious effect on housing and livelihood.
For example, Kyo-machiya, or traditional town houses in Kyoto have a spot garden;
and the custom of sprinkling water on the street to generate breeze. In summer joinery
doors are replaced with those of having easy ventilation and summer furnishings are
arranged in reception rooms. Thus, a unique lifestyle has been created by the wisdom
and ingenuity of the ancestors of Kyoto.
※1 Shinsen-en
Shinsen-en is a garden located on a wet land at the time when Heian-kyo was constructed.
The garden was given this name because its land has been providing sacred spring water.
The area of the garden had been so vast until when Ieyasu TOKUGAWA built Nijo Castle in
Edo Period on it. Today only a small part of it is left in the south of Nijo Castle. A god of rain
called Zennyo Ryuoh is dedicated at Shinsen-en.
※2 Midoroga-ike
Having a perimeter of 1540m and the area of 9.2ha, Midoroga-ike pond is known for its
rare plants, creatures and a floating island. It has been designated as a national natural
treasure by the government.
Photo1-1 Aerial view of northern and eastern mountain ranges viewed from the urban center
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2 Social environment
Kyoto city area measures 29.18km from
east to west, 49.49km from south to north,
and its surface area is 827.90 ㎢ . The
population of Kyoto city is about 1.47milion.
It is one of the biggest cities of Kinki district,
similar to Osaka and Kobe cities.
These three cities are closely located
forming the Keihanshin Metropolitan
District which collect municipal function
centering around three cities.
Kyoto city which is surrounded on three
sides by mountains, has an area of about
82,790ha. Of this area, 74% is forest, 17% is urban district (14,000ha), and 3.4% is
agriculture land.
The Urban area of Kyoto city is centered around Kamigyo-, Nakagyo-, Shimogyo- and
Higashiyama-wards. They are collectively considered as historical downtown area that
was mostly founded during Edo and Meiji periods.
The traditional industries such
as the Nishijin textile, and Yuzen
dyed fabrics were created in this
downtown area and it is the area
where the industries and
residents coexist in harmony.
Specifically, the area around
Shijo-Karasuma as CBD and
Shijo-Kawaramachi as CSD plays
an important role as among not
only within city but also wider
Kyoto metropolitan district.
In contrast, in the southern and
western part of the urban area,
there are many factories engaged
in Secondary Industries such as
mechanical, electrical and
chemical industries which form
the foundation of “Manufacturing
Fig1-2 Kyoto City in Kinki Region
Fig-1-3 Graph showing land usage policy
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city; Kyoto ”.
Agriculture industry is performed in the suburbs, producing unique Kyoto vegetables
including Mibuna, a leafy vegetable, and Shogoin root vegetable. In Kitayama area,
forestry business famous nationwide for polished cedar log is operated.
Furthermore, with the long history of academic endeavor, Kyoto has developed a city
based on education.
As an example, after the Meiji Restoration, the first ever elementary school with
school district system in Japan was established in Kyoto. As a result, a great number
of national and local public universities have been established in Kyoto. In short, it is a
city which has been developing together with universities.
Nowadays, Kyoto’s name is at the top of the list of “City of Universities” in Japan. It
has numerous universities and research centers that are located in low-rise residential
area at the foot of the mountains on three sides and it’s inner edge where rich natural
environment and historical environment surround.
These intellectual and cultural resources have been often utilized for the
development and growth of enterprises of Kyoto.
The current public transportation network of Kyoto city consists of railways, subways
and busses. Although some regional disparity exists, it is comparatively well
organized.
There are two subway lines; one runs from Takaragaike in the north to Takeda in the
south and the other from Uzumasa Tenjingawa in the west to Rokujizo via Yamashina
in the east, forming one of the major means of transportation in downtown.
Nevertheless, JR line and other private railroads from Osaka and the private railroads
which extend from downtown to Arashiyama and Kurama area are also important
methods of transport for citizens.
Subway, private railroads, as well as city busses are used for urban transportation.
However, a survey of the public transportation users shows that although the use of
railroad is growing for commutation and free outing, the use of busses is declining
being used only for commutation. Furthermore, the use of buses for transportation
from railroad terminal to other destinations, has also dropped and the use of bicycle
has been increasing. Bicycle is a simple and convenient transportation method for
citizens because of the geography of Kyoto, most area of the downtown being flat with
few slopes (altitude difference). Actually, a survey about transportation method
conducted in three cities of Keihanshin area shows comparatively high rate of the use
of two wheeled vehicle in Kyoto city than Osaka and Kobe cities.
Means of access from outside to Kyoto city is generally by private car, private rail
roads and JR. The express highway from Osaka passing through Kyoto to Shiga is
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already operated. The Kyoto highway is partly open to traffic. Kyoto is also connected
to Tokyo, the most highly populated area in Japan by Tokaido-Shinkansen (bullet
trains). The inauguration of Shinagawa Station in Tokyo made it very convenient and
increased the number of passengers.
Major gateways to overseas are also easily accessible from Kyoto. Kansai
International Airport is directly connected by limited express train of JR. Chubu
International Airport and Narita International Airport are also conveniently linked by
Shinkansen.
This convenience of access is one of the reasons for the big number of domestic as well
as international visitors to Kyoto.
3 Comprehensive history of Kyoto
Kyoto is a historical city with 1200 years old history, counted from the relocation of
capital to Heian-Kyo (old name of Kyoto as the capital).
It has formed a profound historical scenic beauty with a depth that cannot be seen
anywhere else in Japan. This is achieved by preserving historical buildings, culture
and lifestyle that have been acquired and refined by several transitions in the course of
history, including that of prior to Heian Kyo period till present.
Here, we are going to bring to light the process of the formation of the city by looking
into the multi-layered history of Kyoto at each period from the view point of culture,
lifestyle, and history.
(1) Pre-Heian Period
The history of Kyoto is dating back to the Old Stone Age.
People made a living by hunting, picking grass or nuts, and moving around the
mountains surrounding Kyoto basin.
In the Jomon Period, people began to settle down in Kyoto basin and continued to
live by hunting, fishing in the river, and picking nuts. Relics from Jomon Period are
unearthed from various places in Kyoto basin. Particularly, numerous earthenware
and remnant of vertical cave housing have been found around Kita-shirakawa area
where many people lived there those days.
By the Yayoi Period, rice cultivation was introduced to Japan and also practiced in
Kyoto basin. Many small colonies emerged at low altitudes where making rice
paddies were easy. People learned how to use tools made from iron and bronze; and
began to form a society.
Many of the remnants of that period were found at the low altitude area of
southern part of Kyoto city (around Fushimi ward).
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By the introduction of rice cultivation, people of Kyoto basin developed advanced
flood control and irrigation system; and other agricultural techniques.
These agricultural, sericulture, spinning, and weaving techniques were brought
from Asian continent by ancient people who had migrated and spread rapidly in
Kyoto from Yayoii period to Kofun Period.
One of the immigrant clans, the Hata clan, brought new knowledge about various
industries, especially weaving technique with them. Their expertise in construction
engineering was also incredible. They constructed a huge dam on Katsura River
which often over flooded and caused damage. The dam prevented the flood and also
distributed the flow of river into a main stream and a drain to be used for irrigation.
Furthermore, Kawakatsu HATANO is well known for building Koryuji Temple in
603 A.D. This temple is reputed for its wooden statue of benevolent Bodhisattva
called Mirokubosatsu-hankazo, the first Japanese national treasure.
At the end of Nara period, Buddhist priests such as priest Dokyo become politically
influential and were engaged in politics. To separate Buddhism from politics and to
abolish Buddhist influence; and to strengthen his reign, Emperor Kanmu moved the
capital from Heijo-kyo to Nagaoka-kyo.
However, Emperor Kanmu was hagridden by the repeated disasters, including
Katsura River floods which were rumored as the curse of Prince Sawara –brother of
Emperor Kanmu. This forced the Emperor to relocate the capital from Nagaoka-kyo
to Heian-kyo only after 10 years.
(2) Heian Period
The History of Kyoto as the capital city of Japan has begun with the order of
Emperor Kanmu to relocate the capital from Nagaoka-kyo to Heian-Kyo by in 794
A.D.
It is said that Kyoto was
selected as the construction
site for Heian-kyo because it
fulfilled all the criteria needed
for being a suitable place for a
capital. Those conditions were
the “Shijhin So-oh” or four
good-luck gods based on Fen
Shui geomancy originated from China.
The Construction of Heian-kyo lasted from 793 A.D. to 805 A.D. and it was a
culmination of urban development of those days. It has been divided into two
Photo1-2 Scale model of Heiankyo capital
Provided by Kyoto City Library of Historical Documents
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symmetrical towns (wards) “Sakyo” and “Ukyo” by centered main road “Suzaku
Boulevard”. Heian-Kyo covered an area of 4.5km from east to west and 5.2km from
South to North.
The symmetrical town-Heian-kyo was pierced by “Suzaku Boulevard” as a central
axis from south to north. Rajo Gate which was situated the south edge of Heian-kyo
served as the main gate and on the opposite north edge verged to Heian palace
including emperor’s palace and imperial ceremonial buildings
Road construction of Heian-kyo was designed on the basis of grid street plan based
on Jo-Bo Zone system. Since then down to the present date, the grid street plan
layout has been the framework of city structure. The size of a square block unit
called “Cho” was about 120m on each side. The Henushi which was standard
measure of housing land for a family was defined by dividing “Cho” into 8 by length
and 4 by width to 32 small blocks.
Each “Cho” was surrounded by mud walls, wooden walls or fences. Jo-Bo was also
surrounded by reinforced earthen wall and Bo-mon gate of Sakyo and Ukyo area and
it facing Suzaku Boulevard was guarded by soldiers. Maintaining and fixing yards of
Jo-Bo of the entire Kyoto were so difficult that they began to wear out gradually. As a
result the movements of inhabitants in and out of the city could not be checked.
During the construction of Heiankyo, the course of rivers had been relocated along
the road from south to north and bridges were built at the cross point of roads from
east to west.
Specifically, Horikawa river was developed early on as water way to convey goods
and materials
Fig 1-4 System dividing an area into the width of4 and length of 8 blocks
Source:”Heiansento 1200nen Kinen Yomigaeruheiankyo”
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In contrast, the outer ward of Heian-kyo was completed only with an earthen wall
called Rajo which was located at south edge of Kujo Boulevard and Rajo gate at the
center of southern face because there were no threatening such as incursion of
aliens.
By the completion of the construction of Heiankyo, many major roads were linked
to it. The top arterial road to Heiankyo in ancient times was Sanyodo-road which
started from Dazaifu in Kyushu.
In addition, Kurama Trunk Road which was used as pilgrimage route for Kibune
Shrine and Kurama Temple, Wakasa Trunk Road which is known as Saba kaido
(mackerel trunk road) which connected Kyoto to Wakasa through northern
Fig1-5 Heian Period, before cloister government
Source:” Kyoto no Rekishi 1”
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mountains, were used from Heian Period. Saigoku Trunk Road which connects
western Japan and Rajo gate of Heiankyo was also constructed in Heian Period.
Starting with Umezu area located near Ohi river(Katsura River) which functioned
as the key point of water transportation, Yodo and Yamazaki area, a junction of Kizu
River, Uji River and Katsura River had played very important role as outer port of
Heiankyo by functioned as connecting point of water and land transportation.
The well-planned city of Heiankyo had designated separate area for the residence
of the noble citizens. The status hierarchy also reflected residential area. In the
middle of Heian Period, a large number of commoners began to live in Heiankyo and
it had begun to develop as a manufacturing and commercial city. Therefore, the
original city planning philosophy of Heiankyo gradually transformed.
The East and West markets which were constructed in the beginning of Heian
period were closely attached to the life of people of Kyoto. The desolation of Ukyo
area caused early collapse of West market. East market survived relatively longer
but the penetration of private stores and peddlers made both markets uninhabited
by the end of 10th century. By the end of 12th century, East market was also
desolated.
Inhabitants built huts under the outer earthen walls of the town facing the streets
which were used for dwelling and business transaction. As depicted on the picture
scroll called “Nenju Gyoji Emaki”, these structures were used as galleries during
festivals. The Kyoto town House or Kyo machiya originated from this period. In
Kamakura Period, residential places were expanded beyond on the streets. The
retired emperor’s palaces had begun to be built in the city center by 9th century.
Imperial palaces were repeatedly destroyed by fires, so the retired emperor’s palace
served as a temporary imperial place.
By the 11th century, the political center moved to the suburbs because of the
beginning of retired emperor’s ruling system. Many of the temples, villas, and
summer houses were built in Shirakawa, Toba and other suburbs of Heian-kyo.
Because of this, the outskirt of the city expanded and was urbanized. Some of these
examples are Hosshoji temple built by Emperor Shirakawa (in Okazaki area),
Rikushoji temples; means six “shoji temples” (Hosshoji, Enshoji, Saishoji, Seishoji,
Sonshoji temples) built by past emperors and imperial families and palaces. In the
era of Senior Emperor Shirakawa and Senior Emperor Toba, Toba Imperial Villa and
several temples were built as their places.
In early days of Heiankyo, in order to abolish the influence of Buddhism on the
political corruption by Nanto Buddhism, the number of temples in the city was
limited to only two. The political influence of Nanto Buddhism which was the
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spiritual backbone of Ritsuryo law system was one of the reasons of the relocation to
Heiankyo. Buddhism in this period was mostly of the Shingon sect and Tendai sect
which were tantric Buddhism with adhisthana prayer discipline. Basically, it mainly
focused on solving the routine affairs of imperial families and nobles.
By the middle of Heian Period, the school of Jodo sect which evangelized
posthumous salvation by Amitabha Tathagata begun to expand. At the end of Heian
Period, Buddhism did not remain to nobles, but spread out to common peoples which
formed the predecessor of New Kamakura Buddhism.
Regarding politics and administration, the Ritsuryo law system which had been
the foundation of politics and administration, entered a new stage. The influence of
Fujiwara clan had expanded. Although the status of emperors and imperial families
had demoted because of the new personnel systems of regent and chief advisor of
politics, the Ritsuryo law systems still prevailed. The regular placements of
administrative rulers, which were officiating the emperor, were institutionalized and
Fujiwara clan dominated these posts. However, the middle class aristocrats took the
posts of dispatched local rulers called Kokushi.
Furthermore, Kebiishi Office (the national security authority) was organized and
the authority of Kebiishi personnel were increased to the point that it even
interfered into the city affairs .
In mid 11th century, as the retired emperor’s ruling system had begun, the warrior
class appeared in the political scene. Kiyomori TAIRA, once a warrior guarding
emperors, enjoyed prosperity of his Taira clan concentrated in Rokuhara residential
area. He gained a firm grip on power. A mere warrior without any political heritage
and originally just a law enforcement and military guardian, held a position in the
national political scene. Obviously, this regime collapsed a short time later due to
lack of supporting backbone.
In 1185, the imperial court on the request of Yoritomo MINAMOTO who crushed
the TAIRA clan, appointed his high lank staff and some local lords as Shugo and Jito
(administrative authorities).
In 1190, Yoritomo MINAMOTO visited Kyoto to hold a formal meeting with
Emperor Goshirakawa. The Kyoto court recognized Kamakura feudal military
government as a legitimate authority to take charge of the entire military and police
forces throughout the country, thus, an agreement was reached between the two
sides.
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(3) Kamakura Period to Muromachi Period
From the end of Heian period, the power of warriors had begun to increase. At the
beginning of Kamakura period, Rokuhara area (Presently the area at the east bank
of Kamo River from Matsubara Street towards Shichi-Jo Street) which was located
in the outskirts of Heiankyo was urbanized because it was the center of power of
Heike Clan.
Although the political power of the Imperial court declined, Kyoto flourished as a
A typical example of Heian Period architecture
Representatives of famousarchitectures of Heian Period include
Toji Temple, Saiji Temple and Daigoji Temple. However Saiji
Temple does not exist anymore. The present five storied pagoda of
Toji Temple (Kyooh-gokokuji Temple) was reconstructed in Edo
Period. Daigoji Temple was originally founded by priest Seiho in
874 by building a hut on top of the mountain and enshrined two
deities of mercy. It was called Kami-Daigo later. In 926,
Shimo-Daigoji temple was founded and a five storied pagoda was
constructed. In 1994, Daigoji Temple and Toji Temple were
designated as World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO as part of
the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto”.
※1, Shijin So-oh
Shijin or four gods means Blue dragon, White tiger, Red peacock and Black turtle and
snake.A river in the east, a wide street in the west, a lake in the south and a mountain
in the north correspond to these animals respectively that was believed to protect the
land. Shijin So-oh belief that came from China was a needed criterion for selecting the
location of capitals. Kyoto fulfilled all these needs i.e. Kamo river in the east, Sanyodo
Trunk Road in the west, Ogura Pond in the south and Mt. Funaoka in the north.
※2, Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto
Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto were included in the “List of World Heritage
Sites” in 1994. It consists of 17 cultural heritages located on the foot of mountains in the
east, north and west of Kyoto. Among them, 14 are located in the city.
Kamo-wakeikazuchi Shrine (Kamigamo Shrine), Kamo-mioya Shrine(Shimogamo
Shrine), Kyo-oh gokokuji Temple(Toji temple) Kiyomizu Temple, Daigoji Temple, Ninnaji
Temple, Tozanji Temple, Saihohji Temple, Tenryuji Temple, Rokuonji Temple( temple of
Golden Pavilion) Jishoji Temple(Temple of Silver Pavilion), Ryoanji Temple, Honganji
Temple and Nijo castle.
Photo1-3 Five storied pagoda,
Daigoji Temple
Provided by Daigoji Temple
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city of commerce and industry by the power of common people who had inherited the
traditional industrial technology from Heian Period.
Kyoto maintained its status as the center of Japanese Economy and Culture
beyond Kamakura period. By the mid 13th century, the former Sakyo Ukyo area
system was transformed to another system of “upper town” for imperial residences
and “lower town” for commerce and industries.
Toimaru or shipping company had appeared and started their businesses at Yodo
and Katsura ports, outer ports of Kyoto since Heian Period.
The construction of trunk roads by Kamakura Shogunate enabled the development
of “Shuku”, post stations in which inns for travelers and offices for forwarding
agencies were located, thus, facilitating citizens’ travel. As a result, the biggest
industrial city -Kyoto was tightly knitted with other cities.
From the end of Heian Period to Kamakura Period, because of the expansion of
Jodo philosophy and the introduction of Zen, new Buddhist sub-sects were created.
While the Heian Buddhism was mainly for nobles, Kamakura Buddism spread
among common people and warrior class who gained power then. The Rinzai and
Sotoh sects also spread among warriors while Jodo, Jodoshin, Ji, and Nichiren sects
spread among commoners.
After the fall of Kamakura Shogunate, which is the starting point of the regain of
sovereignty by Emperor Godaigo, the power center of the five Zen temples were
shifted from Kamakura to Kyoto.
At the beginning of Muromachi Period, Shogunate regime was established in Kyoto
and it became the commencement point of warrior rule. It is from this period that
the names for places such as “Raku-chu, “Raku-gai” or “Kamigyo” “Shimogyo” were
firmly embedded. Kamigyo area was developed as the residential area of authorities
such as court nobles and warriors, whereas Shimogyo became an economic activity
center where financial industries were gathered. Hence, the city functions were
divided into areas.
Typical examples of architectures of Kamakura Period.
Typical Buildings of Kamakura Period includes
the main hall of Daiho-on-ji Temple(Senbon
Shaka-do) and the main hall of Renge-ohin Temple
(Sanjusangen-do).
Photo1-4 Daiho-on-ji Temple
(Senbon shaka-do)
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The Five temples of Zen sect which
attracted warrior’s religious faith were
recognized and Rinzai sect was guarded
by Shogunate. At the beginning of
Muromachi period, a rift appeared
between the Zen sects such as those of
Nanzenji temple and the former
Buddhist power, Tendai sect of Enryakuji
Temple and they
started hostility
against each other
which caused
political problems.
Priest Soseki
MUSO who worked
together with Takauji
ASHIKAGA for
Tenryu-ji ships
dispatch had a great
impact on politics
and priests from the
five temples became
diplomatic advisors
when Japan and
Ming trading started
in Yoshimitsu era.
The close contact
between warrior
class and Buddhists left marks on Rokuonji temple of Kitayama culture and Jishoji
Temple of Higashiyama Culture. Moreover, pilgrimage became popular among
commoners.
Kyoto city was burned down by the long maelstrom of Ohnin war that begun in
1467 and lasted for 11years.
Except a small Kamigyo and Shimogyo areas, the rest of the city was totally burnt
after the war. Kamigyo and Shimogyo area was connected only by one road. However,
the people of Kyoto rebuilt their city with their untiring efforts. Different from the
former Jo-bo system, the renewed city was composed of “Ryogawa-cho” (literally, cho
Fig1-5 Heian Period, before cloister government
Fig1-6 Kyoto in Muromachi Period
Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 3”
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on both sides of street) . Recovery began from Kamino-Kyo, the area covering the
commercial town located in the west side of imperial palace and Nishijin textile
industry area, and Shimono-Kyo where merchants who were holding Gion Festival
resided.
Triggered by Ohnin War, citizens of Kyoto developed an autonomous body to protect
Fig-1-7 After Onin-Bunmei War in 1586
Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 4”
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their livelihood by themselves in the middle of the 16th century. Six communities
joined together and formed a federation called Chogumi, around the imperial
compound at first. Since then, Chogumi, were also formed in Kamigyo and Shimogyo
area and several of them with unique activities originate.
Socho organization; the ward system was also developed in this period. Shimogyo
Socho ward revived the Gion Festival which had been discontinued since Oh-nin war
and commoners played great role in the festivals.
Residents gathered at Sodo-auditorium and discussed about various problems. The
Cho or Chogumi became a foundation of citizen’s life.
Though the size of the city itself shrunk, people with various status like priests,
artisans, merchants, warriors, and nobles merged together. As a result, dense urban
activities in which people of every rank and field were closely linked were developed.
Thus, the urban culture of Kyoto was nurtured and sustained until today.
Furthermore, it was during this period that the temple towns which were scattered
in the Basin (Kamigamo and Nishinokyo) and Tsu-ports (Yodo and Fushimi)
regarded as Rakugai (the suburb), and Kamigyo and Shimogyo regarded as Rakuchu
(central town) were all together recognized as one entity.
Typical examples of architectures of Muromachi Period.
Typical architectures of Muromachi
period include Jishoji Temple or
temple of Silver Pavilion (national
treasure), Tower Gate of Yasaka
Shrine (important cultural property)
and the main hall of Fushimi Inari
Shrine (important cultural property).
Jisho-ji temple is endorsed in the
World Heritage List as “Historical
Monuments of Ancient Kyoto”.
Photo1-6 Jishoji Temple or Silver Pavilion Temple Provided by Jisho-ji Temple
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(4) Azuchi Momoyama Period
Nobunaga ODA and Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI managed to reconstruct Kyoto which
was destroyed by Ohnin War. Nobunaga entered Kyoto and started building a castle
with donjon and stone walls (old Nijo Castle) facing Muromachi street, which was a
hub between Kamigyo and Shimogyo. Nobunaga consolidated his military reign and
unified Kamigyo and Shimogyo areas.
Hideyoshi who succeeded Nobunaga carried out the most extensive public work
ever since Heiankyo. One of these works was the modification of Kyoto into a castle
town.
In 1587, he built Jurakudai Castle at a vacant lot of old imperial government
compound, and in 1591 he started building an earthen mound called Odoi
surrounding the downtown in order to reinforce the defense and prevent floods.
This also divided Kyoto in to Rakuchu and Rakugai,
※1 Ryogawa-cho
The original city plan of early Heian Period defined a square block as “1-Cho”which
was supporsed to have houses on east and west sides only. Since streets formed the
center of living for citizens, blocks were transformed to a four sided-house design
instead of the previous two-sided one. Thus, according to the increasing need for
streets as a living space, four sided-house design became 1- Cho. Later during the
warring state period, for the sake of easy defense, a new Cho system was created.
In this system, the sides of two previous Chos facing each other were defined as 1-
Cho. Such a Cho was called Ryogawa-cho which formed the shape of tortoise shell
pattern. Several of these Chos were combined forming a larger Cho which served as
a basic single autonomic community. Even now, such system still exists in some
parts of old downtown Kyoto.
Fig 1-8 Transition of Ryogawa-cho
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In 1590, Hideyoshi started to
redesign the town by constructing
narrow streets which run through
the center of square blocks dividing
them into two rectangular blocks.
This design still remains now. The
open spaces left untouched at the
center of square blocks were also
used effectively. He also relocated
temples scattered around the city to
the edge of downtown around
Teramachi St. and Teranouchi St..
The final stage of a yearlong
renovation works of Kyoto from 1590
was completed with the finishing of
the earth mound. By this earth
mound, Rakuchu (inner city) and
Rakugai (outer city) was spatially-differentiated. These city renovations changed the
town of Kyoto into castle town and it still can be seen nowadays.
From 1594, Hideyoshi started
building Fushimi Castle and
renovated the surrounding areas and
transforming them as a castle town,
being a traffic center which connected
Kyoto and Osaka.
This new castle town which spread
out 4km from the east to the west and
6km from the north to the south was
designed in a rectangular block
pattern. This pattern was formed
by streets called “Tori” running from
the south to the north, and streets
called “Suji” running from the east to
the west which were filled with
warrior’s residences. This city design is
the origin of the present Fushimi
Ward.
Fig1-9 Kyoto surrounded by Odoi mound Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 4”
(京都の歴史4 桃山の開花 )
Fig1-10 Restoration map of Fushimi Castle town Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 4”
※Old location of Goko-gu Shrine
- 26 -
The trunk roads those days were directly connected to Kyoto after the construction
of Fushimi castle town. Those were the Fushimi Highway which connected Kyoto
and Fushimi, New Yamato Highway (Nara-Fushimi) and Tokaido Highway which
was branched from Ohtsu through Fushimi, passed Yodo, and reached Osaka.
The branch stream or canal was constructed to draw water from Uji River to the
outer moat of Fushimi Castle. This stream flowed south wards, thus, Fushimi was
developed as the port city of Yodo River.
In 1546, a Christian church called “Nanban-Dera” (western temple) was
constructed and the missionary started its activities. Hence, the western culture
(Nanban) became a new way of life.
Nobunaga ODA eagerly accepted the western culture and this attitude was
followed by his successor, Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI. Therefore, western style crafts
spread among commoners.
Sakai was the center of western culture as well as a trade distribution route. It
prospered by taking control of gun production which was craved by warlords. Two
ordinary citizens of Sakai, Jo-oh TAKENO and Rikyu SEN started tea ceremony
there.
Tea utensils like tea kettles and tea jars were objects that the leaders of the country
and the war loads eagerly wished to possess, because these items were considered as
the most valuable treasures. An expert of tea ceremony Riky SEN was entrusted as
the Tea maestro by Nobunaga ODA and was also valued by Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI.
Rikyu SEN was called “the first tea master” and was respected in Kyoto. Hideyoshi
used tea ceremony for political purposes. He exhibited his power to the public by
constructing golden tea houses, holding tea ceremony at imperial palace and
throwing great tea parties at Kitano. These ceremonies were directed and conducted
by Rikyu .
Three Sen clans, which are the descendents of Rikyu-SEN, namely Ura-Senke,
Omote Senke and Mushanokoji- Senke were settled in current Kamigyo-ward,
Kyoto.
Photo1-8 Present Odoi mound
Photo1-7 Tributary of Uji River
- 27 -
(5) Edo Period
At the beginning of Edo Period, The Tycoon Ieyas TOKUGAWA started
constructing Nijo Castle which became the stronghold of Edo Shogunate. Therefore,
Kyoto had two political lodgments, imperial palace and Nijo castle. To show the
power of TOKUGAWA Shogunate, Edo Shogunate made efforts to restore temples
and shrines by renovating the ones damaged during the civil wars.
Traffic and transportation were also highly
developed. Because of its geography, i. e. Kyoto
being an inland city, it mostly depended on land
routes for cargo shipment which was a
disadvantage regarding transportation. Therefore,
the Tokugawa government requested Ryoi
SUMINOKURA to develop waterways to improve
the transportation which caused an hindrance or
obstruction to the development of commerce and
industry. SUMINOKURA dug and reconstructed the Oi River (present
Katsura-river) and made it fit for the transportation of timber between Tamba and
Kyoto.
In 1611, SUMINOKURA dug Takase River along Kamo River and completed a
shipping route connecting directly from Fushimi port.
Henceforth, with Takase River becoming the transportation artery for people and
supplies, the transportation of Kyoto developed to a great extent. Many other routes
were quickly developed in this period. Tokaido Highway, originating from Ohtsu, was
used for delivering rice. “Takeda and Toba Highways” were used to transport
products from Fushimi to Kyoto. Shuzan and Yamaguni Highways were the route
Typical examples of architectures of Azuchi Momoyama Period
Sanpo-in building of Daigoji Temple and
Karamon Gate of Daitokuji Temple are typical
examples of Momoyama Period. These are
characteristic buildings that have remained
intact until today.
Hiunkaku of Honganji Temple which is a
three story building with wooden roof tiles,
Golden Pavilion and Silver Pavilion are
designated as “Three distinguished pavilions”
in Kyoto.
Photo1-9 Hiunkaku, Honganji Temple
Photo1-10 Takase River
(First station and a Takase boat)
写真 1- 高瀬川
- 28 -
from Tamba region to transport firewood and charcoal. Thus, the highways
supported the economy of Kyoto. The opening of Nishi Takase River brought fresh
excitement to the landscape of Kyoto. The Nishijin Textile industry which had
started centuries ago was also continuously developing and by the 1700, there were
500 textile companies and 10000 weaving machines. In addition, the traditional
industries such as dyeing, pottery, lacquer ware, and copper wares were at the
height of prosperity and these industries have been handed down until today.
Fig1-11 Kyoto in late 17th century Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 5”
- 29 -
Cho was the unit which was a kind of
minimum social constitution .
Residents of each cho made their own
original regulations called
“Cho-shikimoku” aimed at protecting
the living environment of the cho and
providing comfort to the residents.
This peace and comfort in the society
resulted into a prosperous growth of
the economy and the enrichment of the
life of the city dwellers. As a result of
this prosperity, the architectural
technology advanced and the
prototype of the present
“Kyo-machiya”–town house was
formed. Kyo-machiya house system
spread throughout Japan along with
the culture of Kyoto and affected the
housing design of other cities.
Although the very origin of
Kyo-machiya could be dated back to
Heian period, the basic prototype of the present system Kyo-machiya was completed
after the middle of Edo period. The advance in technology affected the life of city
dwellers of Kyo-machiya. There was a large guest room in Kyo-machiya facing the
back garden, which was furnished with Tatami mats. Here, people enjoyed making
poems, conducting tea ceremony and flower arrangement, having parties, and
exchanging information. This lifestyle of rich merchants gradually spread out among
the commoners, too.
Kyoto products which were related to the above culture and lifestyle, were highly
prized all over Japan and greatly contributed to the vitalization of Kyoto.
Ordinary citizens who were liberated from the fear of war began to make the
outdoor activities called “Yu-zan, Yu-raku” which they had inherited from the
ancient middle ages, as a way of their ordinary recreation. These recreation scenes
can be seen in the painted folding screens called “Rakuchu Rakugai zu” and other
paintings. These drawings spread out to other cities through which people learned
about seasonal popular spots and established the value of Kyoto and the “Kyoto
style”. This outdoor recreation craze was further promoted in the middle of Edo
Sanjusangen-do Temple
Hokoku mausoleum
Fig1-12 A part of Rakuchu-rakugai-zu folding screen
(Funaki version) (Important Cultural Property)
Owned by Tokyo National Museum.
Image:TNM Image Archives
- 30 -
Period spurred by the travel boom throughout Japan. Thus, tourism related
businesses such as tourist sites, tourist temples, and souvenir shops were created.
These businesses were widely advertised by various kinds of publishing media.
In the chaos at the end of Edo Period, great many places suffered from wars. The
central Kyoto got to be grueling battlefield and most of the present Nakagyo,
Shimogyo areas were burned out by the Hamaguri Gate War. It was called
“Don-Don-Yake” (means Burned down land). Fushimi, Shimotoba and Yodo also
were involved in huge wars as a result of which Fushimi was destroyed and burned.
Imperial palace Yamashina area
Fig1-13 Miyako meisho zue, or pictures of scenic sites in Kyoto
Owned by International Reserch Center for Japanese Studies
Typical examples of architectures of Edo period.
It is needless to say that Nijo Castle (national treasure, important cultural
property) is the typical example of Edo Period. The Main hall of Kiyomizu temple
(national treasure), the main hall of Chionin Temple, the five storied pagoda of
Kyo-oh Gokokuji Temple were burned out in this period and were reconstructed
later. Sumiya house (important cultural property) has been built in Shimabara,
one of the entertainment quarters in mid-to late stages of Edo Period. By the end
of Edo Period, Urasenke residence (important cultural property) was built.
Photo1-12 Main Hall of Kiyomizu
Temple
Photo1-11 Nijo Castle Provided by Nijo Castle Office
Photo1-13 Five story pagoda of
Kyo-oh-gokokuji Temple
- 31 -
(6) Meiji Era
By shifting the capital to Tokyo in Meiji Era, Kyoto lost its function as the capital
city of Japan and was deserted. To contain this critical situation, aggressive political
measures and projects for modernization were executed.
Fig1-14 Kyoto in late Edo Period Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 7”
- 32 -
Kunimichi KITAGAKI, the third governor of Kyoto prefecture went ahead with
Lake Biwa Canal Project. It started in 1890 and in the next year, the first
hydroelectric power generator for public use in Japan was built and electricity was
supplied to the city of Kyoto. Lake Biwa Canal contributed greatly to the
modernization of Kyoto.
On the other hand, a new canal -
Kamogawa Canal-, running parallel to
Kamogawa was constructed. The
Completion of this new canal had no
effect on Takase River water
transportation at all. This canal was
used for transporting coal, timber and
stone for construction from San-in and
Hokuriku region while Takasegawa was
used for the transportation of daily
products such as firewood charcoal and fertilizer.
In 1895, the first street car in Japan using electricity emerged. In 1898, Jinzaburo
NAIKI assumed the post of the first mayor of Kyoto city. He carried out three major
projects – the construction of waterworks, the expansion of roads, and the
construction of second canal. Thus, the city infrastructure was developed, and Kyoto
became a modern city.
During the Japan-Russia War, the 16th military division was stationed in
Fukakusa. Dormitory for soldiers and arms depots were built. A road for Military use
only, called Shidan, was constructed which was connecting Kyoto Station to the
division.
Besides, Cho-gumi; local communityy system which was handed down from
Muromachi period was revised by Kyoto prefecture. Kamigyo and Shimogyo were
each divided into 33 units. Each unit which was called Bangumi community decided
to construct and run an elementary school, thus 64 elementary schools were
established in 1869. These school buildings had two functions, housing schools and
halls for community meetings. Therefore, these schools were called “Bangumi
schools”.
In 1867 the new government started the recovery of public property by confiscating
lands owned by Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1869 the lands owned by other feudal lords
were also confiscated. Two years later, lands owned by temples and shrines, except
for the confines of the sacred sites, were also confiscated. This order greatly affected
the big temples and shrines that possessed a large area of land around Kyoto and
Photo1-14 Present Keage Electric Power Plant
(Not open to public)
- 33 -
devastated their economic base.
Some of the recovered lands were used for the construction of facilities and
infrastructure necessary for the modernization of Kyoto. Typical examples are
schools. Shudo elementary school built within the boundary of Myoho-in Temple was
a good example. A part of concentrated temple area in central Kyoto was converted
to an amusement center which is the present Shin-Kyogoku area.
Furthermore, the mountains and forests that belonged to feudal lords, shrines and
temples were also recovered and became the property of the national government.
Kyoto prefecture appointed “Kan-rin-gakari” or forest caretakers to control
forestation and maintenance. The ordinance to prohibit cutting young pine trees
was promulgate in 1871 and in the following year logging permission system was
enacted.
Moreover, after 1877, measures to protect and expand forests such as encouraging
planting trees, prohibiting unplanned cutting of trees and regulating fire, were
taken. The reason for the above measures was the shortage of wood for construction
purposes due to the damage of mountain forests caused by the turmoil of Meiji
Restoration and the following inflation.
Heian Shrine was built in 1895 and the ceremony for the 1100th anniversary of
relocation of the capital to Heiankyo was held gorgeously. Heian Shrine decided to
enshrine Emperor Kanmu there. Jidai Festival, which is a parade displaying the
history of Kyoto from Heian Period to Meiji Restoration started at this point.
Fig1-15 Reorganization of Chogumi in Kyoto
Owned by Kyoto Prefectural Library and Archives
- 34 -
Sanjo street was a west-end of
Tokaido Highway and located
close to Takse River port where a
lot of hotels, money exchange
businesses and postal services
were concentrated. It became one
of the busiest streets of Kyoto.
After the Meiji Era post offices
and other businesses such as
transportation, publishing, banks
and insurance companies were established, which boosted the importance of the
street.
The first western style two story buildings were the Shushoin Library, the Saikyo
Post office, and the telegraph branch office built on Sanjo Street creating a new
landscape. These were followed by the construction of brick buildings such as the
Central Post Office (cultural property registered by the city), Daiichi Bank Kyoto
office, and the Kyoto branch of Japan Bank (important cultural property).
In late Meiji Era, Kyoto was developing and modernization did not remain
restricted to Sanjo street. Post offices, banks, factories, universities and retailers
were built of stone and bricks in western style. Kyoto Imperial Museum, at present
Kyoto National Museum (Important cultural property) was built in
Higashiyama-Shichijo. Modern and Japanese style buildings such as the Nijo
railway station (cultural property designated by the city) now relocated in Umekoji
Steam Locomotive Museum) were constructed.
Representative architectures in Meiji Era
Photo1-15 Heian Shrine immediately after being constructed
Source:”Heian Jingu Hyakunenshi(Heian Jingu)” Owned by
Kyoto Prefectural Library and Archives
Photo1-16 Old Kyoto Branch Office of Bank of Japan
(Present Museum of Kyoto)
Provided by the Museum of Kyoto
Photo1-17 Old JR Nijo Station
- 35 -
(7) Taisho to early Showa Eras
In 1918, Kyoto city
incorporated 16 towns
and villages in the
suburbs so its land area
doubled. Along with the
development of road and
street car, new housing
sites were created.
Ishibe-koji quarter is one
of the excellent scenic
beauties of housing
development of the
beginning of Taisho era
which is still preserved.
The alleys with stone
walls and stone
pavements are one of the
outstanding and unique
masterpieces of that era
which form a valuable
historical scenic beauty.
In 1922, the city planning area was decided and land reforming projects around
historic urban area was approved in 1926. Designating scenic landscape district and
building the first sewage system was approved in 1930. In 1931 the approval of the
city planning brought about the big Kyoto city by incorporating one city, three towns
and 23 villages including Fushimi city.
Because of the incorporation of the surrounding villages and towns in the previous
years, in 1932 the population of Kyoto city reached one million. In 1932 the city area
expanded to 4.8 times larger than before. In the industrial field, mechanical,
electrical and chemical industries were highly advance at the outbreak of World War
I. Merger and takeover of banks and electronic industries caused concentration of
enterprises in the city. Regarding the traditional industries, modernization had been
achieved by emphasizing the introduction of machinery in manufacturing; and the
improvement of technique, quality and design.
The merger of the surrounding towns and villages into Kyoto and the construction
of new factories increased labor population in the city. Since the need for proper
Fig1-16 Map of Urban area of Greater Kyoto in 1931
Owned by Kyoto Prefectural Library and Archives
- 36 -
distribution of commodities for daily use was felt, a public market was opened in
1918. In 1927, the first-ever wholesale market in Japan was established in Kyoto.
While the city development projects progressed, concern was raised about the
destruction and damage of scenic beauties and cultural heritages. From the early
days of Meiji Era, forests were regarded very vital for the scenic beauty. Cutting
wood and timbering was banned in some forests. Since these forests were kept
untouched, their plant fauna changed rapidly. In Showa Era, change in the outlook
of Higashiyama mountain range appeared. Because of decrease in red pine and
increase of pasania dominant forests, the color of the mountain changed from light
green to dark and deep green. Experts discussed on this change and suggested the
need for managing the landscape.
The regional forest office which manages the national forests in Kyoto changed the
previous policy of banning cutting trees and issued a new order to resume timbering.
The Higashiyama national forest landscape plan in 1936 proposed to grow trees on
the mountains in order to prevent disasters, to create comfortable walking
atmosphere and to create beautiful view seen from city. It also paid special
attention to the management of forests behind temples and shrines.
Meanwhile, to preserve cultural assets, beginning with laying down the law to
protect old objects in 1871, through law to protect old temples and shrines 1897, the
law to protect national treasures was laid down in 1929 and numbers of temples
were preserved and repaired by this law.
(8) After the war
The scenic beauty of Kyoto which was created in Meiji Period remained intact
because it sustained little damage during World War II. However, the historical
scenic beauty and natural scenery deteriorated rapidly because of the changes in
social structure and fast development after the war. The development was especially
accelerated during the high growth period in 1960’s. By the construction of Meishin
highway in 1963 and New Tokaido Shinkansen line on 1964, the number of tourists
and visitors to Kyoto drastically increased. In the course of motorization, a large
housing complex was planned in the suburb in 1969. A large town called Rakusai
New Town in Oe-Ohara area was born accommodating some ten thousand people.
To counter these drastic changes in the city, the Ancient Capital Cities Preservation
Law was promulgated in 1966 putting restrictions on building construction and land
development.
Moreover, since the enactment of the Act on Protection of Cultural Properties in
1950, increasing attention was drawn towards preserving cultural properties. Thus,
- 37 -
not just temples and shrines but various objects and aspects of life of Kyoto such as
historical townscape, festivals, way of living and languages were designated as
cultural assets of Kyoto.
The post-war years for Kyoto were a period for the spread of culture,
democratization, and internationalization. Improvement of cultural facilities was
desired more than everything.
New constructions started appearing, beginning with Kyoto Kaikan concert hall in
1960, followed by National Museum of Modern Art and Kyoto Prefectural Library
and Archives in 1963. Kyoto International Conference Hall was built in Takaragaike
Park in 1966. In late Showa Period, various cultural facilities such as Kyoto City
Gymnasium, Kyoto Prefecture Laborer’s Hall, Kyoto Municipal Science Center for
Youth, Kyoto Prefectural Center for Arts and Culture, Kyoto Prefectural
Gymnasium, Kyoto International Community House, Museum of Kyoto and Kyoto
City Library of Historical Documents were built and inaugurated.
Typical examples of architectures of Taisho to Showa Period.
Kyoto Central Telephone Office Nishijin Branch, Kyoto Art Center (former Kyoto
Municipal Meirin Elementary School) (tangible cultural property, registered by the
national government) and Kyoto Kaikan concert hall were the representative examples of
building structures of this period.
Photo1-18 Kyoto Art Center
Former Kyoto Municipal Meirin
Elementary School
Photo1-19 Kyoto Kaikan Hall
- 38 -
4 Traditional Culture in Kyoto
Kyoto is a city possessing a multilayered compound culture. This culture has been
handed down to the citizens in the course of its 1200 years who have preserved the
originality and ingenuity while creating new cultures. The outstanding culture that
Kyoto has inherited today is because of the fact that it was the capital of Japan for a
long time. In Edo Period, many men of letters and artisans would gather in Kyoto and
created various cultural works and arts and spread them across Japan. Even after the
Meiji Restoration, Kyoto culture continued to exist vividly and develop simultaneously
with the modern industries and universities. Kyoto has been the centre of Japanese
culture in every aspect. Consequently, this culture and art was widely accepted and
they deeply penetrated into the daily life of Kyoto citizens and influenced their life.
Industries were also influenced by the spirit of arts and cultures such as tea ceremony,
flower arrangements and Noh play leading to the support and patronage of these arts
and cultures by such industries. Food culture and other traditional ceremonies and
events also maintained their traditional customs. Some of these traditional industries
and artistic cultures continued developing while undergoing slight changes.
(1) Culture, Arts
A Traditional cultures
(A)Tea ceremony
Tea drinking habit is said to have started in 729. It originated when Emperor
Shomu gave Chinese Dancha tea to 100 monks as a medicine. The beginning of
tea plantation in Kyoto dates back to 1185, when Priest Yosai brought tea trees
from China and started growing them. Henceforward, tea has been grown in
many parts of Japan and the habit of drinking tea spread among aristocrats.
Charei , the original form of tea ceremony, started in Kamakura Period. In 1224,
Dogen, a Zen sect priest, inaugurated Eiheiji Temple and created a new method
for conducting tea ceremony. In Nanbokucho Era, a priest Soseki MUSO
established Tenryuji Temple in Kyoto and Shoguns of Ashikaga clan became
believers of the temple. Thus, tea ceremony was practiced outside the Zen
temples.
In Muromachi Period, priest Juko Murata created a new method of conducting
tea ceremony in a four and half mat room of Dogudo in Jishoji Temple. He
separated his method from the Zen sect and established a new school of tea
ceremony which forms the base of the current schools of tea ceremony.
Later, tea ceremony was inherited by Jo-oh TAKENO. Rikyu SEN, one of his
students completed the procedures of tea ceremony and it became popular among
- 39 -
feudal warlords. After Rikyu’s death, his son Shoan revived tea ceremony and his
three grandsons established the base of three tea ceremony schools, namely
Mushakoji Senke, Omote Senke and Ura Senke.
In Edo Period, Enshu KOBORI was appointed as the tea master for Tokugawa
Shogunate. Henceforth, tea ceremony became popular among local feudal lords
who also appointed other tea masters. Thus tea ceremony deeply penetrated
into warrior class, which caused a competition among different schools in sending
their tea masters in response to the requests of warriors. In the following years,
tea ceremony began to spread even among merchants to such extent that
learning it became a must for this class. In addition to the Three Sen Schools and
Yabunouchi School, other names were added to the list. Some of those schools,
such as Hisada, Horinouchi andHayami, whose names are found in a document
revised in late Edo Period, are still practiced today. This fact proves that tea
ceremony gained popularity among a large number of merchants.
In Meiji Era, tea ceremony was regarded as an important accomplishment for
women. Today women in beautiful kimono are often seen at the ceremonies.
(B) The art of flower arrangement
In Heian Period, along with the spread of Jodo sect of Buddhism, offering flower
to the statue of Buddha became a common practice. Meanwhile, Hana-awase or
competition in coordinating the beauty of flowers became popular among
aristocrats as a pleasure. In the middle of Muromachi Period, Shoin house style
was developed and alcoves and shelves in such houses were decorated with
flowers. Thus, flower arrangement became a popular practice in the daily life of
people.
This is how flower arrangement originated. Along with the development of the
art of flower arrangement, a reference book called “Kadensho”, describing the
techniques and the philosophy of flower arrangement was written. Sen-kei
IKENOBO, a chief priest of Rokkakudo or Chohoji Temple developed a new style
flower arrangement known as standing style which was used during Buddhist
rituals. Later on, flower arrangement became a family business of the Ikenobo
family.
While building alcoves (Tokonoma) in the houses became a common practice
among ordinary citizens, subsequently, flower arrangement also spread among
them. In the middle of Edo Period, Seika style of flower arrangement became
popular for decorating alcoves and soon a widespread practice. From the middle
of Edo Period onwards, the art of flower arrangement was being regarded as an
- 40 -
indispensable part of daily life. In Meiji Era, flower arrangement which had been
practiced mostly by men became a part of the curriculum of women’s schools and
later became a status of accomplishment for women.
(C) Literature
The Hiragana and Katakana characters were developed in Heian Period. Before
that, texts were being written by Chinese characters only. Heian Period was the
time when many literate women appeared which was quite rear in the world.
Essays, diaries and novels which are still read today such as Tale of Genji by
Lady Murasaki, the essay Pillow Book by Sei Shonagon were written at that time.
Considered as one of the important accomplishments of court nobles, Waka or old
Japanese style poems appeared which contributed greatly to the excellence of
literary works. By the imperial command, the first-Japanese anthology
“Kokin-waka-shu” was compiled and everyone in the imperial court enjoyed
Waka. “Diary of Lady Izumi” or “Tale of Genji” and other works contained many
Waka, which enriched the emotional expression and made them classy and
delicate. In Kamakura Period when warriors seized power, military epics
depicting wars, heroes and military commanders appeared. In contrast to the
literary works in Heian Period, these works had strong style of expression.
The tale of the Heike which is the story of the rise of the Heike clan to glory and
their eventual collapse was recited accompanied by Biwa, a musical instrument
and was widely enjoyed by many people including illiterates. Also essays
“Tsurezuregusa” by Kenko YOSHIDA and “Hojo-ki” by Chomei Kamo were the
masterpieces of Kamakura Period.
B Traditional performing arts
(A) Gagaku or court music
The composite art consisting of song, dance and Japanese traditional orchestra
which includes wind and string instruments and drums is called Gagaku (court
music). Gagaku originated from Chinese and Korean music and “Kagura”, simple
ancient Japanese songs and dances. In Heian period when the Gagaku was
introduced into the society of court nobles, a numbers of original Japanese style
Gagaku were created and performed not just at imperial court but also often at
shrines and temples.
(B) Noh play
600 years ago, Kan-ami and his son Zeami came to Kyoto from Nara. They
- 41 -
completed Utai singing and Kabu theatre that featured dancing. Classical
literatures such as Tale of Heike and Tale of Genji were performed at the Noh
theatres by actors wearing Noh masks and colourful costumes. There are five
Noh schools, Kanze, Hosho, Konparu, Kongo and Kita. Of these schools, Kongo
with it’s headquarter located in Kyoto and Kanze are popular.
The Origin of Kongo School dates back to Kamakura Period. In Muromachi
Period, the school was one of the four Yamato Sarugaku-za dance companies
dedicated to Kasuga Shrine, called Orito-za and later Kongo-za. In later years,
Orito-Kongo family had no successors and were abolished. A cadet family
succeeded the school and revived it in Kyoto.
In 2003, old Kongo Noh Theatre was replaced by a new one with the support of
the cultural figures and the citizens. The oldest Noh stage, called Kita Noh stage
in Nishi Honganji Temple is designated as a national treasure.
(C) Kyogen comic play
Kyogen was developed as a comical play with ironical dialogues. It was usually
played between Noh plays, however, today Kyogen is often played independently.
There were three schools of Kyogen, namely Ohkura, Izumi and Sagi which
were based on inheritance master system (Iemoto) in Edo Period. Of the three
schools, only Okura and Izumi have survived. It is known that there used to be
Nanbu-Negi school, mainly played by priests of Shinto shrines in Muromachi and
Edo Periods.
A document reveals that this school was popular in Muromachi Period. However,
its popularity dropped in Edo Period and was merged with other schools. It is
said that there were several other small schools which also disappeared gradually.
There is a famous Shigeyama family of Okura School in Kyoto. Okura is the only
school which inherited Yamato Sarugaku sect.
In 2001, Noh play and Kyogen were proclaimed as “Masterpiece of unwritten
and intangible properties for humanity”. In November 2008, they were integrated
into the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Properties for Humanity by
the Treaty for the Protection of Intangible Cultural Property.
(D) Kabuki Theatre
Origin of Kabuki theatre dates back to 400 years ago when Izumo-no Okuni
performed Kabuki dance in the precinct of Kitano Shrine. Fashionable
costumes and wild dancing attracted people in Kyoto. After Okuni left, many
people emulated her dance and Yujo (courtesan) Kabuki and Wakashu (youth)
- 42 -
Kabuki were performed.
In 1629, Yujo Kabuki was prohibited because it was considered to corrupt public
morals. Wakashu Kabuki was also banned because some companies practiced
prostitution in addition to their original business. Thus, only men’s Kabuki
survived to the present.
While Noh play was supported by warrior class, Kabuki developed as a popular
means of entertainment for commoners in Edo Period. In 2005, Kabuki was
proclaimed as “Masterpiece of Unwritten and Intangible Properties for
Humanity”.
Minami-za Theatre located at the east end of Shijo Bridge has been
reconstructed many times. However its location has not been changed since Edo
Period and is regarded as the oldest theatre in Japan. Kaomise performance in
December attracts many audiences even today.
C Food culture
(A) Kyoto cuisine
The quality of Kyoto cuisines (Kyo-ryori) can be described as a combination of
relishing seasonal tastes and appreciating the beauty of the arrangement of food
together with the utensils. In Kyoto cuisines, seasonal ingredients are used to
offer seasonal feelings and taste which would be in harmony with the beauty of
Kyo-shiki lacquer ware and other utensils of refined Kyoto pottery.
Kyoto cuisines originated from the parties of noble class of Heian period.
Meanwhile, a vegetarian cuisine was developed from the diet of Zen priests who
had come from China in Kamakura Period. Later on, formal ceremonial dinner
style was developed in Muromachi Period.
In Edo Period, new course dishes were created which were influenced by
western cuisine. Their styles were completed along with the development of tea
ceremony. In late Edo Period, teahouses serving meals also appeared and became
popular. Catering service became common, too. In 1800s, the popularity of Kyoto
pottery reached its peak and various utensils were made.
In late Edo Period, restaurants located along Takase River served raw and
cooked river fish dishes while restaurants in front of temples and shrines served
tofu and vegetable dishes. Fast foods were served along trunk roads. Kyoto
specialties such as Imobo (taro and cod), herring soba noodle, mackerel sushi and
common Japanese conger dishes indicate that being far from the sea, fresh sea
food could not be supplied so it was replaced by dry fish, salted first-hand river
fish.
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The example of wisdoms and creativeness may be seen in the dish of
“Hamo”(common Japanese conger). Since many small bones in Hamo made it
difficult to cook, the fish did not attract any other area except Kyoto. However,
Hamo was strong enough to transport for a long way from the fishery port to
Kyoto. The technique of “Hone Kiri” (cutting small bones into hundreds of tiny
pieces) was developed and elegant and accomplished Hamo cuisine was created.
Under the miserable situation for seafood supply, Hamo became a representative
of summer cuisine of Kyoto by the wisdom and ingenuity of culinarians.
(B) Kyo-yasai or Kyoto Vegetables
In Heian Period, the population of Kyoto reached tens of thousands and it
became largest city in Japan. However, it was truly difficult to transport fresh sea
foods because Kyoto was located far from sea and in a basin surrounded by
mountains on three sides. Therefore, it was necessary to grow vegetables at a
large scale to meet the needs of food for the residents of Kyoto. To this end,
various vegetables were brought from other parts of Japan and from China to
offer them to imperial court. The seeds of vegetables were sent to be grown in
Kyoto. These vegetables formed the roots of Kyo-Yasai or Kyoto vegetable in the
suitable land of Kyoto. Kyoto basin is an alluvial fan formed with rich soil deposit
that was washed down from the mountains. Human excrements were carried
from urban area to the suburban agricultural lands of Kyoto to use as fertilizer
that made the soil suitable for growing vegetable. In addition, it is said that
Kyoto’s climate of basin-type character is suitable for growing vegetable. This is
why Kyoto was continued growing vegetables for a long period.
(C) Sake
At the beginning of Heian Period, there was a government office called
Miki-no-Tsukasa which exclusively managed Sake brewery. In Kamakura Period,
Kyoto became mass Sake producing city. In Muromachi Period, there were 347
Sake breweries in and around Kyoto. Because of its desirable and abundant
underground water, Fushimi area in Kyoto has become a high quality Sake
producing area. Another factor that enhanced sake production in Fushimi is the
fact that Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI constructed Fushimi castle here.
At the beginning of Edo Period, Takase River (canal) was constructed which
contributed greatly to the prosperity of Fushimi as a port town and post town.
Sake brewing business prospered around this time and many new producers
emerged. With the advent of Meiji Era, railroad started operating which
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facilitated the transportation of sake to other parts of Japan. Soon sake reached
many people in Japan, known as “Fushimi’s refined Sake”.
(D) Pickles
Although it is said that pickles have been eaten since Nara period, the name
“Tsukemono” (pickles) is first seen in a book written in 10th century. Since in the
past vegetables were not grown in winter, people started preserving vegetables in
the form of pickles to compensate lack of vegetables. In Muromachi period when
conducting tea ceremony emanated, pickles were used to adjust the temperature
of hot water for tea. They were also eaten during “Monko” (occasion to enjoy and
detect the smell of incense) ceremonies to relax the sense of smell and taste. The
name “Konomono” (the products with rich flavour) was created in this period.
Some of the typical pickles of Kyoto are Siba-zuke, Senmaizuke and Suguki.
These pickles are produced only in Kyoto because it is the unique climate, soil
and quality water that can produce Kyo-Yasai. Popular Nukazuke (bran) pickle is
called Dobozuke in Kyoto which is prepared at individual homes in Kyoto.
(2) Traditional Industry
Traditional industry of Kyoto has its technical roots in manufacturing items for
imperial court. These items were used for ceremonies to show the emperor’s
authority. They are seen in many picture scrolls and were developed along with the
imperial culture.
Thereafter, although Kyoto often suffered from wars including Ohnin War, and
natural disasters, fires, the city rose again and revived like a phoenix.
Kyoto prospered as the biggest manufacturing city during Edo Period as seen in
Rakuchu Rakugai-zu folding screens, anthology named Kehukigusa, and Kyoto
guidebook named Kyo-Habutae. Techniques and sensibility of the traditional
industry cultivated during the long history of Kyoto have been handed down to the
Photo1-20 Food culture of Kyoto
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present by the efforts and ingenuity of predecessors in spite of the drastic changes
and hardship after the 19th century such as Meiji Restoration and the World War II.
The traditional industries of Kyoto have been developed and played a leading role
during the 1200 years of Kyoto’s history. That’s why Kyoto has been called “the city
of traditional industries”. Although, traditional industries are seen in many other
cities, the one of Kyoto is characterized by its wide variety of products which are still
produced today while other cities produce only single items with less variation.
Moreover, Kyoto products are being supplied not just to its residents, but also to the
people of whole Japan. Kyoto is the only city with such vast variation of traditional
industries in the world.
Another distinctive characteristic of Kyoto’s traditional industries is the friendly
competition among them – showing a strong bond between them. Examples are the
Nishijin textiles used for the costume of Kyoto dolls, Kyoto stone and bamboo crafts
for landscape gardening, Kyoto paper mount producers and house furnishing
materials. The designs and patterns were shared by both textile industry and pottery.
Interestingly, Yuzen dyeing was created by Yuzensai MIYAZAKI who was a
Japanese fan designer. The traditional industries of Kyoto have been influencing
each other leading to the production of high quality goods.
Photo1-23 Kyoyaki・Kiyomizu pottery Photo1-24 Kyoto lacquer ware
Photo1-21 Nishijin brocade Photo1-22 Kyoto dolls
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The articles that are designed and produced by the traditional industry of Kyoto
are called “Kyo-mono” (Kyoto goods). Although relatively expensive, they are
regarded as extremely superb rank that no other city could achieve such degree of
refinement. This is because they are produced by highly organized and precise
labour division and advanced techniques acquired in the long path of history of
Kyoto since Heian-kyo.
The main patrons of traditional industrial products are Japanese cultural field.
Refined products made by sophisticated technique and good sense are born because
of the needs and demand of religion and traditional arts such as tea ceremony, flower
arrangement and Noh.
The prominent traditional cultural figures and experts, not just supported the
market of traditional industries, but also served as authorities to evaluate the
products with excellent sense of judgment and the ability to distinguish high quality
which resulted in the advancement of technique and the development of sense of
beauty.
After the Meiji Restoration, due to the westernization of life style and the
introduction of machinery to the industry, the environment surrounding traditional
industries changed to great extent. However the fact that the headquarters of
temples and shrines and the base of masters of tea ceremonies and flower
arrangement were located in Kyoto, played an important role in preserving and
retaining of Japanese values (JAPANISM).
(3) Traditional events
Since old days, Kyoto as the capital, has been not only the city where products and
information accumulated, but also a place blessed with natural environment which
has been entitled as the city with “Purple Mountains and Clear Water”. Such
favourable conditions in Kyoto contributed to the development of sense of beauty,
literature, traditional plays, cultural activities including tea ceremony and flower
arrangements; and industries. These cultures and industries are displayed in
Photo1-25 Kyo-Yuzen dyeing hoto1-26 Kyo- Sensu or folding fan
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Kyoto’s three big festivals namely Gion, Aoi and Jidai, and other traditional events
such as Buddhist Kyogen plays; and in the style of garments, utensils and theatres .
Besides the religious festivals held at temples and shrines, there are many other
events held by communities and special societies. Jizo-bon festival is one of them. It
is a traditional community event closely related to the livelihood of local residents.
This festival has been handed down to the present generation as an event indicating
the end of summer.
Other seasonal events including Yasurai Festival, Daimonji (Bonfire at five
mountains), and Fire Festival at Kurama are held all year round. These events
remind us of seasonal change.
(4) Attraction spots in Kyoto
Kyoto served as the central stage of Japanese history for l200 years, which is an
exceptionally long in the world history. This is why one can find numerous historical
heritages and cultures in different corners of the city. These cultural and historical
assets have attracted several people such as Bakin TAKIZAWA, Kanko SHIBA in
Edo Period and numbers of other tourists. Waves of visitors enjoyed various
historical sites and pots, or enjoyed the air of four seasons at shrines and temples. A
guide book entitled “Miyako Meisho-zue” published in Edo period became the best
seller of the time. Thus, Kyoto developed as a city representing industry, tourism and
culture in Japan.
After Meiji Era, Kyoto was reconstructed as a modern tourist city by implementing
comprehensive policies including industrialization and urbanization policy called
“Kyoto Policy” while sustaining the tradition.
In 1947, Kyoto city resumed its tourism section after a pause during the World War
II. The “Law of Establishing International Culture and Tourism City, Kyoto” was
enforced in 1950. Kyoto Tourism Association was established in 1961. As the
Photo1-27 Bonfire on five mountains
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representative city of international culture and tourism, Kyoto leads Japanese
tourism by conducting a number of frontier projects such as “Winter Travel in
Kyoto”.
In 2000, Kyoto resolved to place tourism as one of her top priority measures in the
strategic city management plan and determined to attract 50 million tourists a year.
Some of the various measures to attract people to Kyoto included creating and
rediscovering new tourist resources appropriate to Kyoto, distributing detailed
information and improving the environment to receive tourists from home and
abroad. As a result, the number of tourists in Kyoto in 2008 reached more than
50,210,0000. This achievement was reached two years earlier than originally
expected.
Some of the most popular spots visited in Kyoto are Kiyomizu Temple, Arashiyama,
Kinkakuji Temple, Ginkakuji Temple and Nanzenji Temple. However, recently the
style of tourism changed from merely visiting a historical site to participating in and
experiencing cultural events. Firsthand experience of the culture and history of
Kyoto, such as Nishijin textile weaving, Kyo-yuzen dyeing, dyeing by plant dyes,
making Kyo-yaki pottery and Kiyomizu pottery, practicing tea ceremony and flower
arrangement, appreciating Noh, Kyogen and Kabuki plays; and making Kyoto
confectionary are popular events among tourists. These activities would give them
the opportunity of learning and tasting Kyoto.
Fig1-17 Map of Urban area of Greater Kyoto in 1931
Source: Annual Report on Tourism in Kyoto, 2008
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The most favourable seasons in Kyoto for
tourist are cherry blossom period from mid-
March to April, Golden Week from the end
of April to the first week of May; and
foliage colouring period from October to
November. So, the peak season of tourists
fall in spring and autumn. To attract
tourists in winter season, a project called
“Kyoto Hanatoro or flower lanterns” was
launched in March 2003. This is aimed at creating an elegant seasonal evening
tradition by lighting up historical cultural properties and townscapes with rows of
paper lanterns.
Analyzing the pattern of tourists visiting Kyoto, we can say that typical visitors to
Kyoto are middle aged women and repeaters. The ratio of day trip and overnight trip
is 3 to 1. The fact that 60% of the repeaters have visited Kyoto 10 times and above,
proves that Kyoto tourism ranks among the highest quality class.
Meanwhile, the number of tourists from abroad has been increasing. The number
of those tourists from abroad who stay overnight in Kyoto has reached about 940,000,
more than double of the number five years ago. On the country basis, tourists from
the United States are the largest in number followed by Taiwan, Australia, France
and China. As the centre of traditional Japanese culture, Kyoto is one of the most
attractive and aspired cities by for world tourists and is expected to play a leading
role in Japanese tourism.
(5) Distribution of cultural properties
A Outline of important cultural architectural properties in Kyoto
(Table 1) ( as of February 2010)
In Kyoto, there are 201 items designated as important cultural properties by the
national government, 40 of which have been designated as national treasures. Out
of these, 171 or 85% are temple and shrine buildings. Typical Japanese
architectures of each period from Heian to Edo can be seen in Kyoto. Since many of
these buildings were located in the outskirts of the old downtown (especially,
temples and shrines designated by the national government are concentrated in
Higashiyama area.), many of them survived conflagrations of Tenmei and Ganji
ages.
Photo1-28 Kyoto Flower Lanterns
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Fig1-18 Distribution of cultural properties designated by the national government
- 51 -
Meanwhile, there were typical architectures of late Middle Ages including Nijo
Castle and Honganji Temple and of Modern Ages including seven western
buildings and two high quality Japanese buildings in the urban area which are
designated by the national government as important cultural asset. Out of the 48
monuments, three are designated as special historic spots.
Out of 35 scenic beauty spots, nine are designated as special places of scenic
beauty and six as natural treasures. Places of scenic beauty include many gardens
representing Japan. Also there are six important intangible folklore properties.
Among them is Gion Festival, a typical Kyoto festival. The festival and its 29
Yamaboko floats are designated as important intangible cultural property. Thus,
comprehensive protection measures regarding the festival have been taken.
In 1976, San-nei-zaka slope area and Gion Shinbashi area were selected as
“Important Preservation District of the Groups of Historical Buildings”. Later,
Saga Toriimoto area and Kamigamo area are also included. So in total there are
four such areas in Kyoto.
B Outline of other cultural properties (table 2) (as of February 2010)
In 1981, both Kyoto prefecture and Kyoto city each enacted their own laws for
the protection of cultural properties. Based on these laws, they have designated
and registered those historical properties of cultural value which were not
designated by the national government as “Important cultural and historical
assets” so as to protect them.
Based on the prefectural ordinance, there are 42 designated tangible cultural
properties, six registered cultural properties, three designated historical sites, one
designated place of scenic beauty, six designated natural monuments, one
designated area for preserving cultural environment, one intangible folklore
property and two registered cultural properties in the city.
Based on the city ordinance, there are 68 designated tangible cultural properties
(architectures), 24 registered cultural properties(architectures), 14 designated
historical sites, 12 registered historical sites, 27 designated place of scenic beauty,
three registered cultural properties( places of scenic beauty), 25 designated
natural monuments, 10 registered cultural properties including animals, plants
and ores, eight designated tangible folklore properties, three registered
intangible folklore properties, nine areas for preserving cultural environment, and
30 intangible folklore properties in the city.
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Fig1-19 Distribution of cultural properties designated by Kyoto Prefecture and Kyoto City
- 53 -
In addition, based on the cultural property registration system in 1996 by the
national government, 263 registered tangible cultural properties (architectures)
are located in Kyoto city. There are many more historical monuments of cultural
value besides the above mentioned ones. Investigations are carried out to
implement measures for the protection of properties of Modern Ages, modern
Japanese architectures, and town houses (Kyo machiya).
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Fig1-20 Distribution of cultural properties registered by Kyoto City