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Aquarium Lab Setting up and maintaining a healthy aquarium

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Aquarium

LabSetting up and maintaining

a healthy aquarium

Electrical Safety

Do not handle power cords

with wet hands.

Create drip loops on cords to

prevent water from travelling

to plug.

Use outlets with GFCI’s that

will “trip” to prevent

electrocution.

Do not overload outlets.

General Aquarium Safety

Spilt water is a slipping hazard.

Always supervise children

around tanks and equipment to

prevent accidents and injury.

Never lift / carry aquariums by

the rim or sides.

Wash your hands after contact

with your tank.

Cleaning

Do not use chemicals (soap, Windex) to clean the inside or outside of a tank. Residues can remain in scratches.

Dedicate cleaning supplies (bucket, sponges, etc.) for aquarium use only.

Rinse anything added to the tank (gravel, decorations).

Maintaining Cleanliness

Don’t overfeed your fish! (Food should be consumed and not sinking to the gravel.)

Make a 25% water change once a month.

Vacuum gravel periodically.

Tank Set-up

Situate tank where it will stay before adding anything! Make sure the stand can support the enormous weight of the water.

Add in gravel, water, decor, then fish. Add water to within 1” of the top.

ALWAYS add water conditioner to remove chlorine & chloramine from tap water.

Tank Set-up

Always use gravel / décor

designed for aquarium use!

Rocks or wood from outside can

be contaminated with

pesticides, chemicals or

microorganisms.

Decorations not specifically for

aquarium use can have paints /

chemicals toxic to fish.

Light

Natural lighting is best for fish.

Florescent/UV/LED lights are also acceptable.

Black lights can be harmful.

Lights should not be left on 24 hours; it will encourage algae growth.

Hood/Cover

Aquariums must be covered so that

fish don’t leap out

water doesn’t evaporate as quickly

objects/other pets don’t fall in!

A hood can also house the lighting. Be careful not to get the light in the water or water in the light…electrocution!!!

Air

Aquatic organisms breathe dissolved oxygen.

Air must be pumped in with a compressor or can be put in with a powered filter.

Air stones increase surface area of bubbles & O2 content.

Temperature

Most fish can live at a range of 72-80 °F (22-27 °C).

An aquarium heater can be placed in tanks that need higher temperatures (tropicals).

Biological Filtration

Created by bacteria in gravel, on fish & on bio wheel/bio scrubber

Beneficial bacteria breaks down waste products in the nitrogen cycle

Fish food (protein N) Ammonia from fish waste (NH3)Nitrite (NO2)Nitrate (NO3)H20 change

Use an under gravel filter to facilitate bacterial growth

Mechanical Filtration

Removes accumulated solids from aquarium

Usually accomplished with mesh in an power filter

Can also be manually removed with a gravel vacuum

Chemical Filtration

Purifies water using activated

carbon-dissolved impurities are

absorbed by holes in carbon

Activated carbon must be replaced

Minimize use of chemical/medicines

to rid tank of problems

Water tests - pH pH

Measures acidity or alkalinity of waterRange

Freshwater 6.6-7.6 Saltwater 7.8-8.4

A buffer can be added in to maintain pH or make a 25% water change

If pH is too high (basic) – lower pH usingPeat mosspH decreasing chemical

If pH is too low (acidic) – increase pHBaking soda

Water tests - Ammonia

Ammonia

Released from gills of fish and decaying wastes

Toxic; should be 0 ppm!

Change 25% of water or replace carbon to lower level

Ammonia is converted to nitrite then nitrate by bacteria.

Excess nitrate is removed by 25% water change

Conditioning period

A conditioning (waiting) period of 1 week should be allowed for new tank to run until a natural bacteria population is established.

If possible, seed the tank with gravel from an established aquarium.

Add new fish slowly and monitor ammonia levels!

Aquarium Salt

Freshwater- add 1 tsp / 5 gallons

for health

Saltwater can be obtained from

the ocean or from a salt mix

Concentration:

32 ppt

Specific gravity = 1.021 - 1.024

½ cup marine salt / gallon

Saltwater vs. Freshwater

Freshwater Saltwater

Cost $ $$$

(saltwater tanks need special lights & fish are more expensive)

Work

(during water changes, saltwater must be mixed before adding)

Color

(Saltwater has a wider array of colorful fish/corals)

Equipment

(Saltwater requires more equipment to maintain)

Aquatic

Organisms

How many?

General rule- 1 inch of fish/gallon

Ex: a 30 gal tank can have:

10- 3 inch fish

15- 2 inch fish

20- 1½ inch fish

Remember!

Fish may grow!

What to get?

community

How big will I get?Do I play well with others

or am I aggressive?

Do I need friends? (schooling)

Do I prefer warmer

temperatures?

What to get? (Freshwater) Select fish that live in different parts of the tank.

Bottom feeders (scavengers)

Cory cat Loach

Mid-water to upper level swimmers

Platties Mollies

Barbs Guppies

Schooling

Danios Neon tetras

What to get? (Saltwater)Damsels

Tangs

Wrasse

Puffers (brackish-low salt)

Snow Flake Eels

Crab

Shrimp

Helpful Websites

http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/fishspecies/tp/fishprofiles.htm

http://www.saltwaterfish.com/Saltwater-Fish_c_15.html

http://fishprofiles.com/

How do you add new fish?

Dumping fish directly in your tank from a bag can shock

them.

Float the bag for 15-20 minutes to gradually adjust

the temperature.

Then, pour out half of the water in the bag and add

in water from your tank.

After 15-20 more minutes the fish should be

acclimated to your tank.

Also, feed the resident organisms in the tank as you are

releasing new fish from a bag, to keep them

preoccupied.

This allows the new fish to enter gently, without

being harassed by current resident “bullies.”

How much to feed?

Feed fish only what they will consume

in 5 minutes, twice a day (once for us)-

cover food!

Remove excess food, so as not to

pollute the tank

One day of fasting is recommended

(feed 6 out of 7 days)

Signs

Clamped fins, fins held close to the body

Frayed fins

Bloating

Enlargement of the eyes

Erratic swimming and shimmying

Drifting close to the bottom or gasping for air at surface

Loss of appetite

White spots on fins or body

Parasites on body

Cottonlike patches on fins or body

Fish that are normally active remaining still

If an organism appears sick, it should be removed from the tank so as not to contaminate the rest of the organisms

A separate “hospital” tank can be set up to help or medicate a fish

Sickness

Plants

Just like land plants, aquatic plant need natural light to survive, as well as minerals from a substrate

Aquatic plants are often hard to maintain without adequate lighting and can deteriorate in your tank

My advice……. Go plastic!

Substrates

Fill tank ¼ inch

Coral gravel

Crushed coral; porous

Easy to clean

Inexpensive

Bacteria growth

Flourite

Enhanced with nutrients to sustain plants

Sand

Set Up Day 1 *Safety!!!!*

Pull out all décor clean/rinse, and put on table

Wash and rinse out the empty aquarium. Do not allow any gravel to go down the drain!

Wipe off the lid. Plug it in and make sure the light works.

Wash the filter. Remove as much algae as possible.

Wash any gravel you want to use thoroughly before you put it in your aquarium. Do not allow any gravel to go down the drain!

Put the gravel in the aquarium.

Fill the aquarium with water.

Attach the filter to the side of the aquarium. Prime it (put water in it). Plug it in to see if it works.

Wash and rinse any and all toys you plan on putting in your aquarium.

Place them in the aquarium. Remember, fish like “structure” so that they can hide and play!

Get an air compressor, hose and air stone from me. Use only hose to allow you to put the air stone on the bottom where you want it. Plug in the air compressor.

Put the lid on your aquarium and allow to set up.

If you have a marine aquarium, add 2 boxes of salt and check the level daily. Use a hydrometer to measure the salt levels. The recommended specific gravity is 1.020 to 1.024.

Day 2

Drain 50%

Refill

Add water conditioner