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FORMULIENCE™
PolyAquol™OS2naturally emulsifying™
Key features
Molecular basis
Emulsification process
PEG-free naturally-derived W/O emulsifier
Compatible with a wide range of oils with different polarities and chemistries
Compatible with physical and chemical UV filters
Compatible with pigments
Forms stable emulsions without co-emulsifier
Cold-processable
Allows for a high internal aqueous phase
Sensory properties
Synergistic action between polyhydroxystearic structures and selected polyglycerol derivatives of fatty acids
O O
O
OH OH
HO
O O
O
OH OHHO
O O
O
OH OH
HO
O
O
HO
O
OO
HO
OO
O
OHOH
HO
OO
O
OHOHHO
OO
O
OHOH
HO
OO
HO
OO
OHO
PolyAquol™–OS2 forms stable W/O emulsions when used in cold or hot processes
Step 2Addition of the water phase in the oil phase already containing PolyAquol™–OS2
Step 1Addition of PolyAquol™–OS2 to the oil phase
Cold Process Hot Process
80°C
25°C
PolyAquol™–OS2
80°C
PolyAquol™–OS2
25°C
external oil phase
external oil phase
internal water phase
Comparison with polyglycerol-based W/O emulsifiers
PolyAquol™–OS2 produces a more homogeneous and stable emulsion in comparison with other polyglycerol emulsifiers
PolyAquol™–OS2 is compatible with polar oils
Emulsifier Polar oil* Apolar oil* Stability(1 month at 50°C)
5%
Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
10% 15%
Unstable
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate Unstable
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Unstable
PolyAquol™–OS2 3Stable
* 10% Sweet Almond Oil and 15% Paraffinum Liquidum
Optical microscopy analysis (600X)
PolyAquol™–OS2
A C
B D
E
PolyAquol™–OS2 produces a more homogeneous fine particle size distribution in comparison with the other polyglycerol-based emulsifiers
Cold Process Emulsions 25°C
Oil Phase (tot. 30%) Viscosity (cPs)2
Stability(1 month at 50°C)Emulsifier Emollients1
A Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
5% 25%
– Unstable
B Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate – Unstable
C Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 7150 3Stable¶
D Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2550 Unstable
E PolyAquol™–OS2 3950 3Stable
1 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil , Isononyl Isononanoate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Stearate 2 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm
¶ separation after 3 months at 25°C
Optical microscopy analysis (600X)
Compatibility with silicone oils and enhancement of silicone-emulsifier performance
Excellent compatibility with silicone oils
PolyAquol™–OS2 allows to obtain stable emulsions with a high content of silicone oil up to 50% of the oil phase
Compatibility with silicone oils
Oil Phase (tot. 30%)Viscosity (cPs)2 Stability
(1 month at 50°C)PolyAquol™–OS2 Cyclomethicone Emollients1
3% 10% 17% 6950 3Stable
5% 10% 15% 11300 3Stable
5% 15% 10% 13150 3Stable
1 Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Magnesium Stearate 2 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm
PolyAquol™–OS2– is fully compatible with silicone emulsifiers
– enhances the performances of silicone emulsifiers
– augments the homogeneity of the emulsion and increases its stability
Enhancement of silicone-emulsifier performance
Emulsifier Viscosity (cPs)1
Stability(1 month at 50°C)
Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18
DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2
– 5% 11300 3Stable
5% – 8150 Unstable
3% 2% 19500 3Stable
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2
– 5% 11300 3Stable
5% – 18450 Unstable
3% 2% 18300 3Stable
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl
DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2
– 5% 11300 3Stable
5% – 13900 Unstable
3% 2% 12000 3Stable
1 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm
Optical microscopy analysis (600X)
Cold Process Emulsions 25°C
Cold Process Emulsions 25°C
PolyAquol™–OS2Cyclopentasiloxane,
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Combination
Skin care application – Sensorial evaluation
PolyAquol™–OS2 vs Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Identical formulations containing 5% of either emulsifiers
Tested in a blind fashion on the back of the hand
FORMULA A FORMULA B
INCI PolyAquol™–OS2 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
DimethiconeFunction
A
PolyAquol™–OS2 5.0% – W/O Emulsifier
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone – 5.0% W/O Emulsifier
Magnesium Stearate 2.0% 2.0% Consistency Agent
Paraffinum Liquidum 2.5% 2.5% Emollient
Isodecyl Neopentanoate 5.5% 5.5% Emollient
Cyclomethicone 15.0% 15.0% Emollient
B
Aqua (Water) up to 100% up to 100%
Glycerin 5.0% 5.0% Humectant
Disodium EDTA 0.05% 0.05% Chelating Agent
Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate 2.0% 2.0% Stabilizer
C Preservative a.n. a.n. Preservative
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Formula B)PolyAquol™–OS2 (Formula A)
Lightness Stickiness
Emolliency Absorption
Spreadability
Film Forming effect
01
56789
10
234
PolyAquol™–OS2 provides unique sensorial properties to a formulation
– Brings a high spreadability index
– Increases lightness and absorption
– Reduces stickiness
Oil Phase (tot. 30%)
Viscosity (cPs)1
Emulsifier Pigments
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl
Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18
DimethiconePolyAquol™–OS2 Iron oxides &
Titanium dioxides
6%
2%
26500
6% 13000
6% /
6% 15500
1 Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 92, 10 rpm Oil phase: innollient™SL, Cyclomethicone, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Magnesium Stearate
3Stable Unstable Unstable 3Stable After 1 month at 50°C
Theoretical SPF 15 20 (cold process) 25
UV filters Inorganic Organic & Inorganic
UVAButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2%
Zinc Oxide 8% 4% 6.5%
UVB
Benzophenone-3 1%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5% 1%
Homosalate 1%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7% 7%
Titanium Dioxide (and) Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 4%
Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica 5% 3%
Total 13% 20% 21.5%
Oil Phase * ** *
PolyAquol™–OS2 5% 4% 5%
Viscosity (Brookfield, RVDV-I) 28000 cps
(Sp 93, 10 rpm)21000 cps
(Sp 92, 10 rpm)28000 cps
(Sp 93, 10 rpm)
Stability (1 month at 50°C) 3Stable 3Stable 3Stable
* Oil Phase (50%): PolyAquol™–OS2, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coco -Caprylate, innollient™LO, innollient™SL, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Magnesium Stearate ** Oil Phase (40%): PolyAquol™–OS2, Paraffinum Liquidum, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Cyclomethicone, Magnesium Stearate
Suncare – Organic & Inorganic UV filters
Makeup – Pigment dispersion
PolyAquol™–OS2 is compatible with organic and inorganic UV filters
Optical microscopy analysis (600X) Arrowheads: agglomeration of iron oxides
PolyAquol™–OS2– is compatible with pigments
– Provides a homogeneous distribution of pigments
– Prevents agglomeration of pigments in the oil phase
PolyAquol™–OS2The emulsifying properties of PolyAquol™–OS2 (patent pending) mainly reside in the synergy between polyhydroxystearic structures and selected polyglycerol derivatives of fatty acids. The ratio into which those components are combined together allows for the formation of a hydrophilic pocket mainly created by the polyglycerol heads. Lipophilic tails are externally oriented and interact with the oil phase completing the W/O emulsion. This molecular arrangement provides strong emulsifying properties without the need of co-emulsifiers. PolyAquol™–OS2 is completely natural (PEG-free), can be used for cold-process emulsions and endows formulations with a remarkable sensory profile.
Technical information INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
W/O emulsions
Silicone containing W/O emulsion
Recommended use level: 2-6%
Cold-process emulsions
PolyAquol™–OS2 is compatible with:
– Polar oils
– Pigments
– Organic and inorganic UV filters
– High % of internal water phase
– Silicone oils
– Silicone emulsifiers
– Waxes (e.g. microcrystalline wax)
– Consistency agents (e.g. magnesium stearate)
Applications Skin care
BB & CC creams
Sun care
Baby care
Make up
“Green emulsions”
Background
Formulation
Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856
info@innovacos.com
www.innovacos.com
© 2014 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
(02/15)
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