andrew smith gallery’s farewell exhibit in santa fe · lozoya, elliott mcdowell, duane...
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P R E S S R E L E A S E F 0 R I M M E D I A T E R E L E A S E July 14, 2018
VITTORIOSELLA
SEVEREREALITYANDREWSMITHGALLERY’SFAREWELLEXHIBIT
INSANTAFEe
WesternHimalayaandtheKarakoramExpedition
toK2,1909,sponsoredbytheDukeoftheAbruzzi,LuigiAmedeodiSavoia
PhotographsbyVittorioSella
ExhibitDates:Friday,July27,2018–September1,2018
“Icanseefixedonpaperthevisionofalostinstant,IrecognizescenesIhadnotbeen
abletoadmireonthespot.And,insuchdetails,Isometimesfindtheelementsof
beauty.Thetoilandaccidentsofaclimboftenblindoureyestothebeautyofthe
highestregions.Ourmindcannotretainatruenotionoftheviewsweadmired.We
knowwefeltuptherethestrongestemotions,werememberbutdimlythetruthofthe
siteswhichfascinatedoursenses.Photographyhelpstochoose,todetail,andto
idealizesuchelementsascanformabeautifulalpinescene.”
~Fromtheessay“PicturingtheSublime:ThePhotographsofVittorioSella”byWendy
M.WatsoninSummit:VittorioSellaMountaineerandPhotographerTheYears1879-
1909
“Geologicalevolutionisproceedingwithsuchobviousplainnessthatthetravelerfeels
as though he were beholding a country in a state of formation and witnessing the
modeling of the earth’s crust. The slowwork of the waters hollows out gorges and
hewstheirwalls intonewshapes,almostunderone’seyes,withsuchactivityandon
suchascalethatnothingelsewherecanbecomparedwithit....”
~Karakoram&WesternHimalaya1909byFilippiDeFilippo,(1912)
AFarewellExhibitinSantaFe
AndrewSmithGallery,upstairsat122GrantAve.,SantaFe,NM87501,
bringstoaclose33yearsofbeingSantaFe’smostdistinguishedfineart
photographygallery,withanexhibitofphotographsbyVittorioSella
(1859-1943),therenownedItalianmountaineeringphotographer.The
photographsonexhibitarefromSella’slegendary1909trektothe
KarakoramintheHimalayas,ajourneyofunthinkablecomplexity,
enduranceandartisticfortitude.Theyareverylikelythefinest
documentsofamountainrangeevermadebythegreatest
mountaineeringphotographerinthehistoryofphotography.Drawing
onfortyyearsofexperienceasamountainclimber,technicianand
artist,SellacapturedK2anditsretinueofmassivepeaks,alongthe
BaltoroGlacier,fromallsidesandinallmoods.Hisgroundbreaking
worksofartfromtheAlps,theCaucasus,Africa,Alaska,andthe
HimalayasinfluencedVictorianaesthetics,andfurtheredscientific
studiesinthefieldsofanthropology,cartography,meteorologyand
botany.AsphotographicworksofarttheywerehighlyadmiredbyAnsel
Adams.TheexhibitopensonJuly27,2018andrunsthroughSeptember
1,2018.
HK.2001–K2-28,250feet.KarakoramHimalayasatsunrise.K2asseenfromthe
eastfromtherocksaboveCampVI
“TheappearanceofK2isquitechanged;ithasbecomeamountainofice...Thewall,
ataverysteepangleofinclination,isliveicefor7,000feetup,andcrownedwith
séracs.Itisabsolutelyinaccessible.”FDFp.258
The42printKarakoramcollectionispartofamuchlargecollectionof
600VittorioSella'sthatareownedbytheAppalachianMountainClub,
ofBoston,America’soldestenvironmentalorganization,whose
founderswerecolleaguesandfriendsofSellainthe1880s.Itisthe
mostimportantcollectionofSella’sworkoutsideofItaly.
HK.291-Srinagar,capitalofKashmir.MohammedanTemple
“DuringthelongperiodofMohammedandomination,thecapitalcitywasknownas
Kashmir,butwhenitfellintothepoweroftheSikhsitresumeditsancientHinduname
ofSrinagar.Ithasapopulationofabout130,000andstandsalmostinthecentreofthe
plainataheightof5,303feet,uponthebanksoftheJhelum,whichflowsthroughitin
asweepingcurve.”FDFp.34
ThisfinalexhibitinSantaFeisinkeepingwithAndrewSmithGallery’s
decadeslongtraditionofbeingtheleadinginternationalsourcefor
importantgeologicalandtopographicalcollectionsofthehighestartistic
calibermadeinthe19thand20thcenturybyluminarieslikeCarleton
Watkins,TimothyO’Sullivan,AlexanderGardner,WilliamHenryJackson
andAnselAdams.AndrewSmithGallery’scontributiontotheartsof
SantaFecannotbeunderestimated.ThegallerybroughttoSantaFe
themostcomprehensivecollectionofAnselAdamsphotographsever
amassed.ItexhibitedworkbysuchlegendaryartistsasAnnieLeibovitz,
YousufKarsh,HenriCartier-Bresson,DuaneMichals,FlorGarduño,
ArnoldNewman,ElliottErwitt,JudyChicago,ChristopherBurkett,
HermanLeonard,JerryUelsmann,ShellyNiro,O.WinstonLink,Shelia
Metzner,BillWittliff,RayMetzker,LeeFriedlander,BaronWolman,and
PaulCaponigro,manyofwhomattendedopeningsoftheirwork.It
exhibitedworld-renownedphotographers,manyofwhommadeNew
MexicoandtheSouthwesttheirhomelikeLauraGilpin,EliotPorter,
BeaumontNewhall,VanDerenCoke,AnneNoggle,WalterChappell,
WilliamChristenberry,PatrickNagatani,JackSpencer,TomBarrow,
BettyHahn,JoanMyers,DannyLyon,ZigJackson,AnneNoggle,Joel-
PeterWitkin,JodyForster,RolfKoppel,AlanRoss,JulyChicago,Victor
Masayesva,ZigJackson,HulleahTsinhnahjinnie,MiguelGandert,Oscar
Lozoya,ElliottMcDowell,DuaneMonczewski,LisaLaw,PhilBorges,
JamesBalog,DelilahMontoya,BarbaraVanCleve,andDavidMichael
Kennedy.Fornearlyhalfacenturythegalleryhasbrokeredimportant
collections,soldhundredsofthousandsoffineartphotographsto
individualsandcollectors,andbeenaninvaluableeducationalresource
forvisitors,artists,teachers,students,andartlovers.TheGallerywill
berelocatingtoTucson,Arizonainthefall/winter.
HK.13–DrasValleybelowKarah.Apricotsinblossominanoasis.
TheDrasriverwasfollowedbythepartyonitswaytotheKarakorammountains.It
emptiesintotheupperIndusandhassomesettlementsalongitscourse.P.78
VittoriaSella's1909ExpeditiontotheKarakoram
WhenVittorioSelladiedatageeighty-fourin1943,hehadmadeone
lastattempttoclimbtheMatterhornin1935attheageofseventy-six;
anendeavorthatfailedonlybecauseoneofhisguidessufferedan
injury.Bythen,thepioneerofalpinephotographyhadclimbedand
photographedthehighestpeaksintheEuropeanAlps,theCaucasus
(Russia/Georgia),Mt.SaintElias(AlaskaYukonBorder),theHimalayas
Sikkim,theAfricanRwenzori(Uganda),andtheHimalayan
Karakoram.Ina1946articlefortheSierraClubBulletinAnselAdams
wrote,“...withSella’ssensitiveinsightandresponsethemagnificence
ofmountainsisdistilledintoahighorderofexpression.”“The
contemporaryphotographerwoulddowelltostudySella’scraft.”
HK.1000–TheIndusValleyBelowParkutta.AcultivatedalluvialbelowTarkuttap.
101
VittorioSellawasbornin1859intoawealthy,politicallyinfluential
familyinthePiedmonttownofBiella,Italy.Asaboyhisclassicalstudies
includedGreekandLatinalongwithpaintinglessons,inwhichhe
excelled.Hewasintroducedtotherecentlyinventedartofphotography
byhisfather,atextilemillownernamedVenanzioGiuseppeSellaand
hisuncle,QuintinoSella,afamousItalianministeroffinance,bothof
whomwereenthusiastsofthenewart.In1856,Venanziopublisheda
treatiseonphotographythatwastranslatedintoGermanandFrench
andwasincludedinRoret'sEncyclopedic.QuintinoSellanotonly
foundedthestillactiveItalianAlpineClub,butalsotookhisyoung
nephewhikingthroughtheAlpsashetaughthimtolovethemountains.
HK.18–IndusValley,atconfluencewiththeDros.P.113
SellalivedduringtheGoldenAgeofEuropeanmountainexploration
whenmanypeakswerebeingscaledforthefirsttime.Priortohisera,
mountainsweremostlyregardedasdangerousobstaclestobecrossed,
hauntedbyevilspirits.Theearly19thcenturysawadramaticshiftin
people’sperceptionofmountains,heraldedbytheRomanticpoetswho
laudedthemas“palacesofnature”thatembodiedtheeternal.“To
WordsworthandothersoftheRomanticera,alpinepinnaclesbecame
symbolsoftheheightstowhichtheimaginationofmancouldaspire,
towardtheunattainablegoalsofunderstandinginfinity,eternity,and
thevastnessofGod.Itwasnoaccidentthatthebeginningsof
mountaineeringasasportcoincidedwiththerecognitionthat
mountainswere,infact,beautiful.Andthedevelopmentofphotography
coincidedwiththatverymomentinthehistoryofnaturalphilosophy
whichhasbeencalledthe“eraofmoralizedmountaineering.”This
usheredinasuddeninterestinlandscapeandnaturalscenery,along
withpoetry,painting,photography,andtheartoftravelaspeople
soughtouttheheightenedemotionsbroughtaboutbyafullexperience
ofNature.
Sellahelpedrunthefamilytextile,wineandbankingbusinessesand
wouldtakehistimeoffexploringtheAlpsorothermountainranges.
Althoughsmallinstature(only5foot6inches,todayhewouldbe
consideredaneliteathlete)Sellapossessedtremendousstrengthand
endurance.Hecarriedheavy,large-formatcamerasandglassplates,
scaledtreacherousslopes,workedinchallengingweatherconditions,
andenduredstorageconditionsthatsometimesruinedhisnegatives.He
madephotographswithbothstereoscopicandhandheldKodak
cameras,afterwardenlarginghisprintsbyvariousmeans.Hismasterful
compositionsofsublimepeakscapturedcrispdetailsandthevastarray
oftonalrangesenhancedbyhigh-altitudelightandshadow.Hismost
celebratedworksarelarge,multi-platepanoramas.
HK.1007–HimalayanpeaksinKashmir,fromnearSildi.ShigarValleyfromNest
Dilfi
“Shigarvalleyrunsfromnorth-westtosouth-eastforabout25miles,maintaininga
widthofaboutthreemilesandwithadropofsome350feet.Thesandhasobliterated
nearlyeverytraceofglacialaction.Onlyinshelteredcornersandontheleesideof
lateralspursaretobefoundmoraineremnants,whichbearwitnesstothepast
occupationofthevalleyuptoagreatheightbyagiganticglacier...”FDFp.139
ThepublicwasenthralledbythepicturesSellabroughtbackfromhis
daringexpeditions.Accordingtoonereviewer,hisannualexhibitof
mountainphotographsattheAlpineClubinLondonwas
“inconvenientlycrowded.”SellasoldhisprintstopeoplefromItaly,
France,GermanyandEngland,andwasrepresentedbyaLondondealer
namedSpooner.Hisphotographssatisfiedagrowingpublichungerto
knowmoreaboutdistantplacesontheearththatfewwouldeversee
first-hand,whileprovidingasatisfyingblendofartistic,scientific,
intellectual,andevenspiritualelements.Sella’sprimarygoalwasto
providetheempiricalevidenceofwhatheandhispartyhadseenon
theirexpeditions,andtoconveyrealityasitwasperceivedbythe
humaneye.Hisapproachwasgovernedbyrigoroustechnicaland
aestheticstandardsthathecalled“larealtàsevere–severereality.
1909ExpeditiontotheKarakoram
In1909,asSellawasapproachinghisfiftiethbirthday,heandhislong
timeclimbingfriendtheDukeoftheAbruzzi,LuigiAmedeodi
Savoia,embarkedontheirmostambitiousjourneyyet,toclimbK2in
theWesternHimalayaKarakoramrange,andtosatisfytheDuke’s
primaryintentiontosetanewhigh-altituderecordforamantohave
climbedto.InTibetan,thenameKarakorammean“blackgravel,”and
toreachitmeantcrossingthevastmountainousregionbetween
KashmirandChineseTurkestan,acomplexsystemofranges,immense
tablelands,intricatevalleysandmightyrivers.TheDukewantedto
determinehowhighhumanbeingscouldclimbandsurvive,aquestion
thatcouldonlybesolvedbydirectexperience.Theexpedition
ultimatelyspentovertwomonthsontheKarakoramglaciersand
returnedwithatroveofscientificdatathatincludedalargenumberof
photographs,atopographicalsurveyofaportionofthehighglacier
basins,newaltimetricmeasurementsandmeteorologicaldata,new
glaciologicalandgeologicalobservations,aswellastheexperienceof
longdurationatlowatmosphericpressurebybothEuropeansand
natives.
HK.74-Mt.PajuifromBaltoroGlaciertakenbytelephotographfromlowerBaltoro
Glacier“TothewestofthesewesawPaijuPeak,apileoftriangularrockpyramids
risingoneaboveanother,clearlyoutlinedbytheiriceridgesandliftingupa
symmetricalpointedsummitcompletelycoveredwithsnow.FDFp.181
SellahadalreadyaccompaniedtheDukeonexpeditionstoAlaskaand
Uganda,andonceagaintheDukewantednoonebutSellaonthe
Karakoramexpedition,knowingthathisphotographicrecordwouldbe
unsurpassed.SevenItalianguidesandporterswerechosenfrom
Courmayeur,inthevalleyofAosta,Italy.SellabroughtwithhimErminio
Botta,whoactedasassistantphotographer,guideandporter,andwas
familiarwithcamplifeandforeignmountaineering.
HK.84–PaijuPeakandthelowerBaltorotakenfromRdokassBaltoroGlacierand
PaijumountainsfromRdokass“ThecalculationsbasedonthesedatesgiveRdokass
analtitudeof13,205feet.Itthusbecameastationofreferenceforthecalculationof
theDuke’sobservationsinthehighmountainsduringthisperiod.Wehadnowreached
morethan13,000feetabovesealevel,withoutexperiencinganysymptomofsuffering
fromaltitude.Weallsleptsoundly,andourappetiteswereexcellent.Someofus,
however,notedevenattheearlyperiodthatwhenwestoopeddowntotieourshoesor
windourputtees,forinstance,wewouldbecaughtbyaslightsenseofoppressionon
standingupagain,andobligedtotakefourorfivedeepbreaths.“FDFp.194
TheDukehadalltheirequipmenttransportedfromEurope–camp
materials,personaleffectsandsuppliesfortheglacierregionslike
ropes,ice-axes,crampons,nailsandcobbler’stools,aswellas
meteorologicalinstrumentsandfragileFortinmercurybarometersthat
wereaperpetualsourceofanxiety.TheDukewantedtousePaganini’s
photogrammetricsystem(awayofmakingmeasurementsfrom
photographs)forthetopographicalwork,soaphotogrammetriccamera
withastockofplateswasaddedtoSella’sequipment.Medicalsupplies
werealsoincludedtoministertotheneedsofthenativeswhoseldom
sawaEuropeandoctor.Onlytwogunswerebrought,onchanceof
gettingsomespecimensofzoologicalinterest.
HK.1003–Abruzzi’sCampatTolti
AsitwouldtaketwomonthstogetfromEuropetotheKarakoram,
wheretheDukewantedtobebyearlyJune,theteamdepartedfrom
MarseillesonMarch26,1909,sailingviaSicily,theSuezCanal,theRed
Sea,andtheIndianOceantoBombay.Theythentraveledtwodaysby
railroadtothenorthofthePunjabwheretheyandtheirluggagewere
depositedinRawalPindionApril11th.Fromtheretheexpeditionand
equipmentweretransportedbyhorse-drawncartsfor200milesto
Srinagaronacarriageroad(finished20yearsearlier)thatwentfrom
RawalPindi(1,700ft.)totheKashmirplateau(5,200ft.).Aftersome
wellearnedrestinKashmir,thepartyheadedfortheKarakoramon
April24th.
HK.78–SouthernwallofK2fromSouthwest-p.230
InEuropetheDukehadarrangedforallthebaggagetobedividedinto
packagesoftherightweightfor250bearers(whomtheycalledcoolies)
and95ponies.Alltold,262loadsofabout50lbs.eachhadtobe
transportedintothehighmountains.Thecoolieswerepaidthe
“extraordinary”wagesofawholerupeeaday(ratherthan4to6annals
aday–withoutfood),afeedeterminedbytheKashmirgovernmentto
compensatethemforcrossingtheZojiLainwinterorspring,whenthe
dangerofavalanchesandfatigueofwalkingthroughthedeepsnowwas
muchworsethaninthesummer.(Anannalbeingequalto1/16rupee,
thecoolieswerebeingpaidfourtimesmorethanusual).
HK.270–PaijuMt.fromMashurbrum
Theexpeditionengagedfreshcooliesandponiesateverystageofthe
journey,sincethebearerscouldnotleavetheirvillagefieldsformore
thantwoorthreedays.ThankstotheDuke’smeticulousorganization,
theyreachedSkarduin11dayshavingtraveledthrough225milesof
extraordinarilyharshterrain.Scatteredthroughoutthisforbidding
landscapeweresmallvillageswheretheyobtainedfreshcooliesand
ponies.
HK.35–GameofPolofromIndusValley–PoloatParkutta“Atfouro’clockinthe
afternoonagameofpolowasorganizedinhonoroftheDuke.Twelveplayerstook
part...Theoriginofthegameiscertainlyremote.Itseemstohavebeencommonat
thecourtoftheMogols.ThenthetraditionwaslostinIndia,andonlykeptupat
Manipur...TheEnglishofCalcuttalearnedthegameinManipur,andwereso
attractedbyitsfineandmanlyqualitiesthattheymadeittheirownandhavediffused
itthroughouttheworld.”FDFp.122
Thetrip’schronicler,FilippiDeFillippo,describedtheregionas“...one
vastlabyrinthofhigh,barren,desolatemountainchains,ofcliffssplit
andshatteredineverydirection,usuallyprecipitous;overhanging
valleysfullofrocksandstones,pebblesandsand;detritusofallshapes
andsizeshurleddowninavalanchesandmingledwithvast
accumulationsofalluvialdeposits...”“Tracesofavalanchesare
everywherevisible,signsofancientorrecentcataclysms...”
HK.UNK-EmptyBasinofGlacialLakeIcePyramidsinBack–p.210“Theice
pyramidspoisedonthemarginoftheselittlelakesaredazzlinglyreflectedinthe
translucentwater...”FDFp.211
Sellaphotographedeverystageoftheirjourney,generallyleavingcamp
beforebreakfastwithhisassistantBottaandthecoolieswhocarriedthe
photographicandcinematographicapparatus,sothathecould
photographthescenery,orcatchtheexpeditiononthemarchat
picturesqueplacesontheroad.Often,helingeredbehindtophotograph
someespeciallybeautifullandscapefeature,orhewanderedaroundthe
outskirtsofthecampsearchingforsubjectstophotograph.
HK.91–Masherbrum,fromtheBaltoro
“ItseemedasifthewholesouthernchainoftheBaltorohadnootherofficethanto
formabaseforthemarvelousMasherbrum,whichtoweredupinitsmidst,showinga
littledimlythroughthemist.”FDFp.212
TheyreachedtheheartoftheKarakoramonlysixweeksafterleaving
Italy,ajourneythatincluded350milesonfoot.Morethan150coolies
hadcarriedtheirequipmentandsuppliestothefootofK2:ice-axes,
mountaineeringrope,crampons,show-shoesandironspikesforthe
rocks,topographicalinstruments,photogrammetriccameraandplates,
compasses,meteorologicalinstruments,mercurybarometers,aneroids,
hypsometers,thermometers.TheluggageincludedallofSella’s
photographicequipment,exceptthecinematograph,whichremainedin
Rdokass.
HK.198-GasherbrumIV“Infrontofus,apparentlyquitecloseathand,the
transversalchainoftheGasherbrumseemstoshutinthevalley.Itisafileofpeaksand
snowcrests,stretchingonbothsidesoftheprecipitousrockwallofGasherbrumitself,
allridgesandicegullies,andnearly10,500feet.FDFp.213
K2
HK.1005–K2,Mt.Godwin-AustinGlacierfromsouth
“Oneverysidetheeyemeetsaspreadingvistaofwidevalleysfilledwithalmostlevel
glaciers,whichgoupatagentleslopeamongtheloftychains.TheGodwinAustinis
composedofparallelstripesofblackandwhite,formedbythealternationofbareice
andmorainedetritus.ItrunsnorthwardforsixmilestothebaseofK2,whichrise,a
pyramidofrock,12,000feethighfrombasetosummit,betweentworidgesthat
outlinethemselvestowestandeastagainstthesky.”FDFp.221
AstheyobservedK2fromitsbasetoitssummit,themountainexerted
suchastrongfascinationonthemthatFilippodescribed:“the
compellingandirresistibleambitiontowardacloseracquaintanceand
moreintimateknowledgeofthelonelygiant,whichsofewmenbefore
ushadeverbeheld....allthelandscapearoundK2hastherichest
varietyofdesign,thegreatestmajestyofformandaninfinitediversity
ofplaneandperspective.Thescaleisfartoovastforonetoreceivean
impressionofthewholeatonce.Theeyecanonlytakeinsingleportions
...thewallappearedtogrowlesssteep,but,ontheotherhand,the
obstaclesbecamemoreevident–theliveiceofthegullies,dominated
byoverhangingséracs;thegleamofverglasontherocks;thesheer
precipicesshowingeverywhereonthefaceofthewall.”
HK163–StaircasePeakandendofN.E.RidgeofK2andtheopeningoftheStaircase
Basinp.263
Withtheguidesandmostoftheluggage,theDukewentuptheGodwin
AustenglaciertothefootofK2tolookforasuitablespotforabase
camp,fromwherehewouldconductoperationsonalltheslopesofthe
mountain.Thefirstdayhemadeacursoryexaminationoftwo-thirdsof
thecircumferenceofthemountain,butcouldnotfindaneasy,obvious,
saferoutetothesummit.Havingsetupbasecampat16,493ft.,they
determinedwhichofthestrongestandyoungestcoolieswould
accompanythemintothehighestmountains.Thesemenweregiven
substantialtunics,trousers,blankets,puttees,heavywoolsocks,nailed
boots,snowspectacles,sheepskinsleepingbags,andthreetentsperten
men.
HK.SC.1010–TheDukeleavingBaseCamp“OnthemorningofMay30thallwas
ready.Theweatherhadnotchangedandthemountainslookedsinister.Webadeadieu
toourleaderwithgoodwishes,whichdidnotsucceedindisguisingfromourselvesthe
insecuritywefeltastotheoutcomeofhisboldundertaking.Thesimplefactisthat
thesearenotmountainslikeothermountains,andonecannotlookatthemwithout
disquietandforeboding.TheDukewasaccompaniedbythethreeguides,thefour
portersandthecoolies,carryingtheirowntentsandsupplyofchupattis.Hecrossed
thefrontoftheglacierthatcomesdownfromthesouthernwallofK2,andwentupthe
GodwinAustentothefootofthesouthernridge,some500feethigherthanthebase
camp...Hekeptclosetotherightsideoftheridge,andreachedashelteredsunny
nook(18,245feethigh)atthebaseofarockytooth,wheretheguidesdepositedthe
equipment.”FDFp.235
TheyweresituatedatahugeglacialcrossroadsofGodwinAusten
Glacier,surroundedbyBroadPeak(26,414ft.),K2(28,251ft.),the
GoldenThrone(23,990ft.),BridePeak(25,148ft),andMitrePeak
(19,718ft.).K2roselikeapyramidofrock12,000feethighfromthe
baseoftheglaciertothesummit.Theimpressionmadebythe
extraordinarylandscape,wroteFilippo,“wassostrong,somoving,that
nowordscanconveyittothereader.Itwaslikenootherexperience,it
provokednorecollectionsorcomparisons.Soinconceivablyvastarethe
structurallinesofthelandscape,thattheideacomesintoone’smindof
beingintheworkshopofnature,andofstandingbeforetheprimeval
chaosandcosmosofaworldasyetunvisitedbythephenomenonof
life.”
HK.185–SouthWallofBaltoroGlacier
AfterassessingvariouspossibleroutesupK2,theDukedecidedtotry
itssouthernridge,whichhadcertainadvantages.Itwassteeperand
longerthanthenorthwesterncrest,buthewouldnothavetoclimban
ice-walltoreachthecol(thelowestpointofaridgeorsaddlebetween
twopeaks.)Furthermore,theslopefacedsouthandgotfullsunfrom
earlyinthemorning,extremelyimportantinascentsabove24,000ft.,
whereintensecoldcanbeaseriousdangertotheclimber.
230(1)MitrePeakandMustaghTower.TelephotographicSella’stelephotoswere
madewithalongfocal-lengthlenstoencompassallthatcouldbeseenfromalofty
vantagepoint,andtogatherinthephysicalfactsofagreatrange,aswellasto
portraythevisualspectacle.Thiswastakenfromthebaseoftheircampatthe
GoldenThrone“This mountain, of course, is the Mustagh Tower. It is about 24,000 feet high,and stands isolated from other peaks on a somewhat narrow base marked by sharp ridges. It appears, and is, a true monolith, a rocky mass of a single formation, without traces of breaks or divisional planes – no other, of any comparable size, is known to exist in the world.” FDF p. 299
Althoughtheyhadpaireddowntheirtents,sleepingbags,foodfora
week,cookingapparatus,andparaffin,theirsuppliesstillhadsomuch
weightthattheDukedeterminedtogoupalone,withalltheresources
oftheexpeditionsetupinadvancebythecoolieswhowouldpitch
campsashighaspossiblebeforecomingbackdown.TheDukewould
thenattempttoreachthehighestpossiblepointatadash,andifhis
powersfailedhewouldreturn,leavingthetentsontheridge,and
handingovertheundertakingtoanotherteammember,whowould
havetheadvantageoffreshstrengthandtheequipmentbeingalready
onthespot.
HK.233–GlacialTorrentonUpperBaltoro(enlargement)attheConfluenceofthe
Vigne,p.292-293
Butastheysoonlearned,theterrainwastootreacherousforthecamps
tobesetup,andat20,000ft.theguideswereforcedtoreturntocamp
withthesupplies.Alldescribehavingincredibleopticalillusionsinthe
thinairandvastdistances.Slabsofrockthatlookedlikegentleinclines
turnedouttobenearlyperpendicular,anditwasimpossibletoestimate
thegradeofslopesorthedistancesbetweenpointsoftheascent.
HK.133–WesternwallofK2fromSavoiaGlacier“Nowbegantheattackonthewall.
..Fromthecamp,towhichwehadreturnedafterourwork,wewatchedwiththe
telescopetheslowascentoftheclimbingparty.”FDFp.248
Filippowrote:“Wehadnostandardsofcomparison,andtheglaciers
andvalleysaresowelladjustedintheirproportionstothesurrounding
mountainsthatitwashardtorealizetheabsolutesizeofanyobject.All
thiswasrevealedtousgradually,bydintofdailycontemplationand
detailedobservation,mostofallbyrepeatedfailuresinestimating
heightsanddistances.Thusithappenedthatouramazement,insteadof
diminishingwithfamiliarity,grewgreatereveryday,andthis
extraordinaryregionnevermadeamoreprofoundimpressionuponus
thanonthedaywhenwebadeitfarewell.”
HK.2003–K2.BroadPeak
Sellaworkedconstantly,thoughtheweatherwasacontinualchallenge.
Sometimeshespentwholedayspatientlywaitingonaledgeabove
camp,crouchedbesidehisequipment,hopingforabreakintheclouds.
Thecoldpenetratingwindpiercedhisthickwoolens;histeethchattered
ashestampedhisfeetandslappedhishandstogether,waitingforthe
skytoclearintemperatureshoveringaround20degrees.Theforced
inactivitymadehissufferingacute,andwhenthestormsworsenedhe
retreatedintohistenttoprepareasimplemealandwaitformorningas
thesavagewindsblewfinegrainsoficethrougheverycrannyofthe
tent.
HK152BroadPeakfromCampVI.“ThiswasCampVIofourmap,18,602feetabove
sealevel.“FDF-p.256
WhiletheDukewasexploringK2’sglaciersandsurroundingrangeson
thesouth,westandeast,Sellaandhisteam,despitethemistsandfogs
thatrepeatedlycoveredthepeaksandwalls,succeededingettingviews
ofthevalleysandmountainsaboutK2andmakinganetworkof
photogrammetricpanoramasandanglesreadonthetacheometer.Sella
madeaseriesofspectacularpanoramasoftheBaltoroglacierand
surroundingpeaks,capturing25milesoftheglacier’s36milesfromthe
footoftheGasherbrumdowntoapointclosetothesnout.
HK.152–BroadPeakfromCampVI–GroupofmountainsbetweenGasherbrumand
HiddenPeak.P.254-255
ForweekstheDukecircumambulatedK2,tryingvariousroutestothe
summit,butafterextensiveexaminationandhoursofcontemplationin
searchforthesecretofthemountain,hewasforcedtoconcludethatK2
couldnotbeclimbed.Heightwasnotsomuchafactor,aswerethe
obstaclespeculiartomountainclimbingandfamiliartomountaineers
suchasthetreacherousgradeandfrequentstorms.Finally,hedecided
toabandonthestruggle,knowingthathehaddoneeverythingwithin
hispowertosucceed.Nonetheless,beforeleavingthatregiontheDuke
madehistorybyreachinganelevationofaround20,510feetonthe
SouthEastSpur,(nowknownastheAbruzziSpurorAbruzziRidge),
thathassincebecomepartofthestandardclimbingroute,thoughthe
Dukehadtoabandonitbecauseofitssteepnessanddifficulty.TodayK2
iscalledtheSavageMountainbecauseoftheextremedifficultyof
ascent,andthefactthatithasthesecond-highestfatalityrate,with
Annapurnabeingthehighest.Todatetherehavebeenaround300
successfulsummitsand77fatalitiesonK2.
Their work around K2 was finished, but the Duke had no intention of ending
the campaign. Nor did he give up the hope of climbing another peak in the
region and reaching a higher altitude than any yet attained, thus satisfying
the chief purpose of his expedition. As they left K2, the team was
encouraged that the season was not yet far advanced, that their native guides
had done splendidly on the high slopes, and that aside from a slight
reduction of strength and powers of resistance, no one was really the worse
for their life above 16,500 ft.
TheDuketurnedhisattentiontoBridePeak,oneofthehighChogolisa
peaks,wherehesetanaltitudeworldrecordbyclimbingto24,600ft.
Indeed,hewaswithin490ft.ofthesummitwhenastormforcedhimto
retreat.
PointReachedbyH.R.H·24,600ft.)
“Sella’s photography was accomplished using orthochromatic plates which are
sensitive toall colorsof light except thoseof the red regionsof the specter. Skies
were rendered light gray, and foliage medium gray; atmospheric space was well
recorded,andas therewaslittlered in thegeneralsubjectmatter, “panchromatic”
materialswouldhaveofferedslightadvantage.Colorfilterswereundoubtedlyused
toreducethevaluesoftheskyandtobringsnowandcloudsintovigorousrelief.”
~AnselAdams
HK.2–BroadPeakatSunset
“WehadstilltoexploretheupperbasinoftheGodwinAustenandtheeasternslopesof
K2–aworkwhichoccupiedthenextfifteendaysofthecampaign.Accordingtothe
surveymadebytheexpedition,theGodwinAustenfromtheConcordiatoWindyGapis
twelveandahalfmileslong...Fromthispointontheglacierrunsnorth-east,ina
deepgorgebetweenK2andBroadPeak.”FDFp.254
HK.179-184–PanoramafromridgeforminganglebetweentheBaltoroandGodwin-
AustinGlaciers.17,332feet.
“Sellahadprofitedbythetwoexceptionalfinedaystomakehighlysuccessful
photographicexcursions.Onthe26thheclimbedtherockycornerbetweenBaltoroand
theGodwinAusten,reachingashoulder17,239feethighontheblackandbroken
schist’sfromwhichrisesthemarblepeak.ThencehetookpanoramaC.Thenextdayhe
crossedtheglaciertothefootofthegreatwesternridgeoftheGasherbrums,and
madeadifficultwayuptherocksandicygulliestoaledge17,917feethigh,justabout
oppositetohispositionofthedaybefore.HerehetookpanoramaD.Thesetwo
panoramasareallthatcouldbedesiredinthewayofshowingthewholeamphitheatre
anditssurroundingmountainchains.Sellaalsocollectedandphotographedsome
Alpineplantsgrowinginshelteredplacesontheheightsuptonearly18,000ft.”FDFp.
287
HK.109-113–PanoramafromnorthernspurofGasherbrum:2005:BridePeak
(pointreachedbyH.R.H.);2006:VigneGlacier;2007:MitrePeak,Gasherbrum,
Baltoro;2009:K2,Godwin-Austenglacier–variantof109-110-righttwopanelsto
theVigneGlacieranditstributariesoftheleftbank.“Therewasalighteningofthe
atmosphereinthewest,andwecouldtellthatwehadreachedthelevelofthemouth
oftheVigneglacier.Alittlefartheron,wheretheendofitsright-handspurabutson
thevalley,wemadeourcamp...”FDFp.293
HK.230(2)“MitrePeakandMustaghTowerfromCampX1.Telephotographic”
Titleonback:KarakoramMountains,HimalayanpeaksinCashmere
HK.174–“BridePeakandGodwin-AustenGlacierfromCampIII
“OnJune25thSellaleftusatthebasecampandwentdowntothemouthoftheGodwin
Austen,takingwithhimBottaandfifteenloadedcoolies.Hesentbackthelatter
directly,andonthedayfollowingthemadethejourneydownandbackasecondtime,
amarchofnearlyninehours.Werewardedthisextraworkandtheirdocilityin
performingitbysomepresentsofbiscuits,alittleteaandsugar,chocolateorbutter,
allofwhichwehadgraduallypersuadedthemtoaccept.Wewereastonishedtohave
someofthemaskforsoapandwashthemselves,nearlynudeforthepurpose,intheicy
rivuletbetweenthecampandthemoraine.”FDFp.284
HK.1008-1009–2-partpanoramaMitrePeak&MuztaghTower,Himalayas,
KarakoramMts.
HK.206-207–2partPanoramaoftheKarakoramHimalayasfromBaltoroGlacier
HK.1006–TowersontherightsideofBaltoroglacier.
HK.1004–BridePeakfromGodwin-AustinGlacierneartheConcordiap.223
HK.145-147–K2andStaircasePeakfromWindyGap(3partpanoramaof
enlargements)
HK.253–WestSpurofGasherbrum,fromUpperBaltoroGlacier(inourgallerylist
identifiedasHK.210)
“TothenorthoftheGasherbrum,onthecontinuationofthesamerange,thegreat
roundeddomesofBroadPeakriseabovethelastspursoftherightwalloftheBaltoro,
whichstillprojectinfrontofus.”FDFp.213
HK.132-BroadPeak–WesternwalloftheBroadPeakfromthetopoftheTerminal
CascadeoftheSavoiap.245
HK.266–RopeBridgeonPunmahRiver
“Thebridgewasinfaircondition,thoughratherlongandswaying.Aftercrossingit,we
stoppedfornearlyanhourtoenjoythesightofthepassageofthecaravan,Jemadars
andchuprassisshouteddeafeningorders,andthemengotfromonebanktotheother,
movingwithgreatcautionbutnotawkwardly.Aftertheloadswereover,thelittle
flockhadtobetransported,eachgoatridingontheshouldersofacoolie,carriedina
shortofsling.”FDFp.330
HK.2002–MountBaltoro.GlacierLakeintheLowerBaltoro–p.188-189
HK.2004–GoldenThrone
Sellareceivednumerousprizesandhonorarydiplomasfrom
internationalexpositions,geographicalsocieties,andalpineclubs
aroundtheworld.AfterwinningaGrandGoldMedalatthe1893
GeographicalCongressinTurin,morethanfourhundredofhisprints
weresenttoBostonwheretheywereshowninanexhibitionsponsored
bytheAppalachianMountainClub(AMC)andtheBostonArtClub.The
collectionwasthenexhibitedinBridgeport,Connecticutandviewedby
overtwentythousandpeople.in1922,acquirednearlyathousandof
hisphotographs.
HK.1001–FirstCamponBaltoroGlacierbetweenLeligoandRhobutse
Sella’sarchivesarehousedintheFondazioneSella,Biella,Italy.In2010,
thePanopticonGalleryofBostonheldasoloexhibitionofhisworktitled
“HeightsofObservation:ThePhotographsofVittorioSella.”
Retrospectiveswereheldin2008attheEstorickCollectionofModern
ItalianArt,London,UK,underthetitle“FrozeninTime:TheMountain
PhotographyofVittorioSella”,andin2006attheGalleriaCivicad’Arte
ModernaeContemporanea,Turin,Italy.In1999,amajortraveling
retrospectivewasorganizedattheMountHolyokeCollegeArtMuseum,
SouthHadley,MA,accompaniedbythepublicationSummit:Vittorio
Sella,MountaineerandPhotographer,theYears1879-1909,releasedin
associationwiththeApertureFoundation,NewYork.Yetanother
collectionofhisworkishousedintheGeorgianMuseumofPhotography
intheCaucasus.
SellaPass(namedbytheDukeinhonorofthephotographer)islocated
wheretheGodwinAustenglacierflowssouthwardintoawidevalley.
TheSellaPassintheSouthTyrol,ItalywasalsonamedforVittorioSella.
HK.1002–MustaghTower,MitrePeaketc.atsunsetfromCampXIIoverBaltoro
Peaks–p.302-303
FormoreinformationpleasecallAndrewSmithGalleryat(505)984-
1234.Visitusonlineathttp://www.andrewsmithgallery.com.Oure-
mailaddressisinfo@AndrewSmithGallery.com.
LizKay
NotesinitalicsarefromKarakoramandWesternHimalaya1909:anaccountofthe
expeditionofH.R.H.PrinceLuigiAmedeoofSavoy,DukeoftheAbruzzibyFilippode
Filippi.NewYork:E.P.Dutton&Co.,1912
References:
Summit:VittorioSella:MountaineerandPhotographerTheYears1879-1909,Preface
byAnselAdams.EssaysbyDavidBrower,GregChild,PaulKallmes,WendyM.
Watson.Aperture(1999)
KarakoramandWesternHimalaya1909:anaccountoftheexpeditionofH.R.H.Prince
LuigiAmedeoofSavoy,DukeoftheAbruzzibyFilippodeFilippi.NewYork:E.P.
Dutton&Co.,1912
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