a guide to growing small scale food gardening projects - food gardening tool kit

8/3/2019 A Guide to Growing Small Scale Food Gardening Projects - Food Gardening Tool Kit

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Clark County Food Gardening Tool Kit:

AGuide to Growing Small ScaleFood Gardening Projects


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Clark County Public Healths Mission

Our mission is your good health. Together we:

Prevent disease and injury

Promote healthier choices

Protect food, water, and air

Prepare for emergencies.Were always working for a safer and healthier community.

For more information about the Garden Toolkit contact:Clark County Public HealthP.O. Box 9825Vancouver, WA 98666-8825

Phone: (360) 397-8000 x7218Email: [email protected]: www.communitygrown.org

This gardening toolkit was written by Tricia Pace, RD, IBCLC, Clark County Public Health withfunding from Washington State
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]://www.communitygrown.org/http://www.communitygrown.org/mailto:[email protected]


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Contents

Preface

About This Toolkit

Introduction: Why Garden?Why Home Garden?

Why Square Foot Garden?

Part One: How to Create a Food Garden Project:

Step 1: The People; Partners, Participants, and MentorsStep 2: The Places: Where to Site Garden ProjectsStep 3: The Products: Materials, Beds, and Plants

Step 4: The Process: Timelines, Guidelines, and TemplatesStep 5: The Party: Celebrating the HarvestStep 6: Project Evaluation

Part Two: A Garden Primer

Part Three: Resources:

Local Gardening Education and Information ResourcesGeneral Gardening Education and Information sites

Book ListPotential Funding Opportunities

Appendix: Coalition Building10 Steps to Starting a Community GardenCoordinator Outline

Attachments: Participant Letter of InvitationParticipant Covenant/Landlord AgreementParticipant Pre/post SurveyPlant Request FormsMentor Letter of InvitationMentor AgreementInvitation to Harvest CelebrationCertificates of Participation, Appreciation, and /or Recognition

References:

Acknowledgements:


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Preface

Welcome to the Clark County Food Gardening Toolkit; a guide to growing successful small scalfood gardening projects. This guide is a result of our experiences in supporting families withlimited resources enjoy more fresh produce through home gardening. The bountiful gardens o

delicious, nutritious fruits and vegetables exceeded all of our expectations. But what alsogrew were individual self-esteem and resourcefulness, family bonding, and strongercommunities. The initial ten family pilot has evolved into Vancouver-Clark Community Grownwith hundreds of residents benefiting from the practical and wonderful events that occurwhen people connect with nature and with each other.

Growing food gardens begins to address two of the most significant public health issuesaffecting us today: chronic disease and environmental degradation. Increased physical activitand eating more fruits and vegetables are key to healthier, happier citizens. Growing ones

own food reduces trips to the store to buy commercially grown, transported, packaged andstored food that uses so much energy and causes a lot of pollution. Tending the land asorganic food gardens improves and protects our personal and environmental health.

We hope that this guide inspires and supports the creation of many food gardening projectsand programs across Clark County and beyond.


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About This Toolkit

This tool kit was designed using lessons learned by Clark County Public Health to helpindividuals and organizations develop food gardening projects. Included are guidelines,suggestions, resources, and templates to assist and enhance those efforts.

The toolkit is divided into four sections. The introduction briefly discusses some of thegeneral benefits of gardening with a focus on home scale food gardens. Part 1 details steps tdeveloping gardening projects. Part 2 is a garden primer with basic gardening informationPart 3 lists local and internet resources for information, education, events, potential fundingopportunities and a book list for further reading. The appendix and attachments offerguidelines and templates we found useful in our projects.

Comments or suggestions for improving this toolkit are welcomed and appreciated. Please

direct those to Clark County Public Health at [email protected] .
mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]


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Why Gardening?

Food costs are high, food safety is questionable, and food securityis an issue for many residents. Most of us would like to eat better

and get more exercise. Gardening is a fun, creative, economic wayto address some of these problems and more. The NationalGardening association estimates that a well-maintained garden may

yield an average of $500 of food per year. Food grown in a localgarden is more likely to be fresher, more nutritious, and with lessrisk of contamination. Gardening increases outdoor physical activitassociated with the prevention of multiple chronic diseases likeheart disease, obesity, adult-onset diabetes, and high bloodpressure. Research shows that gardeners are often happier,healthier people who are better able to handle the ups and downs olife. Gardening creates a connection of people with the natural

world which increases our respect for our environment and reminds us how our actions reallydo make a difference.

Why Home Gardening?

Home gardening provides healthy physical activity and fresh, organic fruits and vegetables foall who put in a little effort. Growing produce at home means no plot rent or transportation

costs to get to a garden somewhere else. The time saved on the road means more time in youhome garden which is also more likely to be healthy and beautiful because youll see it severatimes everyday. At home, the whole family can be involved; the little ones can learn to help an

there is no need for child care. Relatives andneighbors can offer help and advice from their owngardening experiences. Small garden beds can also bheightened or put on tabletops so people with physicalimitations can join in as well. Think of the greatpotlucks you can share with friends, neighbors, and

extended family.


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Why Square Foot Gardening?

Square Foot Gardening (SFG) is a unique gardening concept developed by Mel Bartholomewover 30 years ago. Small, sturdy raised beds filled with a top

quality planting mix and gridded into one foot squares are the basisfor efficient, economic, simplified gardening. Mel estimates that100% of the produce from a traditional garden can be grown in20% of the space in a square foot garden. He further calculatesthat a square foot garden uses only 10% of the water, 5% of theseeds, 2% of the effort, and leaves the gardener with 0% of theweeds! This system is a boon to those with limited time or moneyand little gardening knowledge or experience. Our projects foundthe SFG method to be easy to teach, productive, and rewarding

for our participants. For further information read The All NewSquare Foot Gardening Book or check out the website atwww.squarefootgardening.com

The Waltons had great production from their 4 x 8 square foot garden.
http://www.squarefootgardening.com/http://www.squarefootgardening.com/http://www.squarefootgardening.com/


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How to Create a Successful Food Gardening Project

Creating a successful small scale food gardening project is a lot of funand quite a bit of worThe steps below helped us plan, implement, and monitor our projects in an organized system

that worked well for everyone involved.

Step 1: The People

Developing a garden project is a people-intensive undertaking that requires enthusiasm,collaboration, knowledge, and time. Projects evolve due to the unique personalities andrelationships that develop between the people who make it happen. Each contributor brings hior her own skills, talents, and ideas to create a successful outcome. Our folks were defined bythe following categories: partners, participants, volunteers, mentors, and coordinators.

The Partners:

Partners are so important for a project bigger than a few gardens. Collaborating with otherswill give your project more exposure and increase its likelihood of success. Building a coalitionwith people or groups who share your goals combines resources to create a more powerful andeffective force compared to working alone. For information on building a coalition seeAppendix 1.

Partners may be individuals, groups, or organizations. Theyll help you with many tasks from

offering advice to providing supplies and labor. When looking for partners, carefully considerwhat your true needs are since projects can take on a life of their own and may lose theiroriginal intent. Partners may include:

Community service organizations (Rotary, YWCA, Scouts, 4-H, etc.) Schools (primary, middle, and high schools, tech schools, colleges) Horticulture programs WSU Extension Churches Businesses (garden shops, lumber yards, compost/recyclers, hardware stores) Neighborhood associations Gardening enthusiasts/experts (clubs, master gardeners, Beautiful Backyards, ) Hospitals Food banks Government and non-governmental agencies Parks and Recreation Community centers Volunteers (gardeners, laborers, organizers, etc.)


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Our Story:Clark County Public Health formed a coalition with partners from a local high schoolhorticulture program, a faith-based organization, and a master gardener program. Between uwe found funding and leadership, built, installed and filled raised beds, and bought vegetablestarts, seeds, and basic gardening supplies. We connected participants with experienced

gardeners who supported and educated them through the summer and we collected input anddocumented the progress all along. We celebrated with a fabulous harvest potluck taking timeto recognize and honor everyone involved. We evaluated surveys and our findings were writtenup, presented, and published.

Vaughn Andersen, Teacher Duane Sich, Director

Lewis & Clark High school Friends of the Carpenter

Bill Coleman, Master Gardener, with Aaron Glenn.


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The Participants:

The participants are the folks for whom you are creating the gardens. They will become thenew gardeners who will tend and harvest their own raised beds. Be sure that your participantunderstand that the success of their garden depends on their efforts and consistentattention. Some of them may have gardening experience while others may never have turned aspade. Experience doesnt matter but commitmentdoes.Participants will depend on the target audience for yourprojects. They may include:

Singles Families Children, teens or adults Persons with disabilities Students Employees People with limited resources Immigrants People who are homeless People in recovery programs People who want to improve their health

Noe working his soil.

Outreach to participants can be challenging depending on how your project is designed.Apartment-based projects serving tenants simplifies outreach by only talking to those

residents. Recruiting participants from more varied or mobile groups takes planning,collaboration, and persistence. If your project will be reaching out to people with low incomesworking with Head Start, WIC, or schools with a high percentage of free and reduced lunchmay be effective. When engaging specific groups, ask people from those groups to be on yourcoalition to ensure respectful, successful outreach efforts.

Inviting potential participants to information meetings lets them to learn about the projectand ask questions. Participants need to have a clear understanding of what signing up means sotheyll know whats involved and how committed they are. Showing examples of the garden bed

or posters of similar projects makes a project more real. If possible, ask previousparticipants to talk about theirexperiences. Serving fresh produce gives a taste of thepossibilities. Salad greens, bread with herbed butter, and water flavored with cucumbers andmint is an easy, healthy menu.

Sending letters of invitation and participant covenants enhances outreach and tracks interestThe participant covenant is a promise to tend the garden all season and reminds them thattheir gardens success depends on their efforts. Templates for letters and covenants are inthe Attachments.


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The Mentors:A mentor is a trusted friend, counselor or teacher, usually a more experienced person, whooften has a powerful influence on the recipients success. Mentors willeducate and supportparticipants from planting through harvesting and share ideas for using the produce. They wilteach about composting, staking tomatoes, and protecting plants from critters and badweather. Often mentors learn right along with participants. Match mentors with yourgardeners early to give more time for getting to know each other and more effective teachingBe mindful to match mentors with gardeners who live in the same areas when possible.

Training mentors goes beyond assuring that they know enough about gardening. The groupserved will dictate what kinds of skills and qualities mentors need to have. Participants mayhave unique situations mentors need to understand so both will be comfortable. There may belanguage barriers, significant cultural differences, differing work ethics and/or differentmores around home maintenance. For a mentor/mentoree relationship to succeed, personal anlifestyle differences cannot interfere.

Melissa Harris mentoring new gardeners at Central Park Place.

Expectations of garden mentors: Enthusiastic about their mentoring role Non-judgemental towards others backgrounds, skills, abilities, or situations Friendly, open, and willing to work with participants where they are Ability to teach and provide gentle, constructive guidance Dependable and reasonably available Passionate and knowledgeable about organic gardening


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Recruiting enough qualified, dedicated mentors can be difficult. Mentors need not be mastegardeners but must know about home-scale vegetable gardening. Training participants tobecome peer mentors is a way to avoid this potential problem in the future. Peer mentors havthe advantage of being recently mentored themselves so they can readily pass on what did anddid not work for them.

Recruit mentors via letters, phone calls, and posting notices in local gardening publications andon the internet. Possible places to find mentors may be:

WSUs Master Gardener program Clark Countys Naturally Beautiful Backyards program Local Garden Clubs Center for Agriculture and Science Environmental Education (CASEE) Center Community Gardens Horticulture Programs Gardening friends and family Volunteer services request

The Volunteers:

Few projects succeed without dedicated, passionate, reliable volunteers. A volunteer issomeone who willingly works for others or the enviroment because they choose to do sowithout being motivated by money or gifts. For many, the emotional benefits of giving ofthemselves are satisfying, fulfilling, and sometimes healing. For a rewarding volunteer

experience, be sure that your project is well organized and that volunteers are given specificmeaningful and timely tasks. Volunteers can help in many ways including:

Outreach assistance (phone calls, presentations, letter writing) Labor (building and installing the beds, mixing soil) Running errands (picking up and delivering materials, lunch, etc.) Providing child care during meetings Administrative support (distributing & retrieving surveys, tallying data, etc.)

The Coordinator:The coordinator is the one who pulls all the people, places, and things together into a commonaction or effort. This is a big role with many responsibilities. This position may be sharedwith a clear division of tasks to keep it manageable.

The coordinator(s) need not be an expert gardener but must understand all phases of yourproject and be able to get along well with everyone involved. Respectis earned by being wellorganized, assuring timely delivery of materials and supplies, and treating others time, talentand skills respectfully. A general coordinator outline is found in the appendix.


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Step 3: The Products: Supplies, Materials, and Plants

Books and Supplies

The basis of our gardening project is found in Mel Bartholomews book All New Square FootGardening; Grow More in Less Space. We chose it because of its simple, efficient, andeconomic gardening methods and its easy, detailed instructions on building beds and how andwhy to make the planting mix. It is written in an easy-to-read format with many colorfulpictures, helpful charts, and a glossary. The book is available in bookstores or may be orderein bulk. See resources for information.

We kept supplies few and simple to show that gardening doesnt have to be expensive. Ourgardeners kit included the book, a kneeling pad, a trowel, and gardening gloves for each familymember. Excluding the book, all supplies were bought at local gardening centers for about$10-$15 per family depending on how many pairs of gloves they needed. Through the

generosity of a local organization, many supplies were donated.

Materials for the Beds:

Our raised beds were made of untreated 2 x 6 cedar boards. Other woods will work and areless expensive but cedar lasts longer so is cheaper than replacements over time. It is NOTrecommended to use pressure treated wood because chemicals might leach into to soil and betaken up by some plants. We used metal corner brackets to secure, square, and strengthen thboxes. Screwing the corners to stakes hammered into the ground added extra support.

All of our beds were 4x 8 for consistency and simplicity. We doubled the 4x 4 bedspromoted by All New Square Foot Gardening so gardeners had more growing space. The sizeof the beds can easily be adapted to your project designs and spaces. For one of ourparticipants with a back injury, we stacked extra boards to make it higher. Table-top beds caalso be built or bought for people with physical limitations.

We used the weed cloth recommended in the book at first, but then chose to use newspapersand cardboard instead. These are free and break down overtime by worms and other bugs.

Cardboard and newspapers are very effective weed barriers under soil and reusing them inthis way keeps them out of the landfill.


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Make grids that divide thebeds into one foot squares.Our grids were made of 1inch lath which is cheap andavailable in bundles of 50from most lumber yards.Grids can also be made ofsticks, bamboo, or evenstring strung from nails inthe tops of the sides. If thgarden is not divided likethis, then it is NOT a squarfoot garden (SFG). Wefound the SFG method to beasy and very productive fo

our participants.Heather proudly displaying her new square foot garden.

We partnered with Friends of the Carpenter (FOC), a local faith-based organization who useswood working as a means of outreach. For a set fee, FOC provided wood, hardware, and laborfor building and installing our beds. This was a win/win partnership which made our firstproject possible and provided income for a worthy organization. Donations of wood, hardwareand volunteer labor could lower project costs.

Jeff and Dennis of FOC installing yet another fine garden.


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Materials for the Planting Mixture:

After the first year using a commercial garden soil mix, we decided to follow the planting mixrecipe in Mels book, All New Square Foot Gardening. His premise is to not waste time, moneyand effort on making poor soil good, but instead start from the beginning with a great plantinmix.

The recipe for Mels Mix is equal parts peat moss, vermiculite, and a blend of five differentkinds of compost. Peat moss aerates and lightens the mixture. Vermiculites role is to holdmoisture but proper watering will assure your plants get enough. We used half therecommended amount to reduce costs. The most importantcomponent is the blend ofcomposts. Using a blend provides a better mix of nutrients so you wont need to add fertilizerFor big projects, mixing a yard of commercial compost in with bags of specific composts likemushroom, forest floor, and chicken or steer manure, makes a less expensive, well-roundedblend. Compost from kitchen waste is all the future amendment home gardens will need. Seemore about composting in the Garden Primer.

We followed the instructions for making Mels Mix on site. Premixing large batches off site,then bagging it to be delivered to the gardens may cut time and decrease mess.

Jeff and Dennis preparing planting mixture.


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The Plants:

Most of our plants camefrom Lewis & Clark HighSchools horticultureprogram. Be sure to orderearly so plants have timeto grow. Then, scheduleinstallations so that startsare ready to be plantedwhen they need to comeout of the greenhouse.Plants from a greenhousewill need time to adapt tothe outdoors through aprocess called hardening

off. Read more abouthardening off in theGarden Primer. Thriving plant starts in Lewis & Clarks greenhouse

We bought seeds and miscellaneous plants from local garden centers. Buy seeds on sale whenpossible, usually in late winter or early spring. Many seeds are good for several seasons so tryold seeds as well. Choose disease-resistant plant varieties known to grow well in your area.Check the packet or tag for all kinds of information on plant needs.

Combination of plants from Lewis & Clark and a local garden center.


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Step Four: The Process

Creating and implementing your first garden project can be quite involved. Below is a briefoutline of how we did it. It is presented here as an outline for simplicity and clarity. Most ofthe activities are discussed in detail in the other sections of this toolkit and in the

coordinator outline in the appendix. Some activities may occur in different order. Forinstance, does a coalition form around an idea to seek funding or does available fundingdetermine the need for a coalition? Your own projects will dictate your steps.

10 Steps to Home-Scale Food Gardening Projects

1. Develop a general idea of what you want to do, for whom, and why2. Secure funding and make a flexible, comprehensive budget

3. Build community buy-in; form a coalition if needed4. Solicit, educate, and select all the players; match mentors with participantsa. Partnersb. Participantsc. Mentorsd. Volunteers

5. Order plant starts & gather all materials6. Organize, schedule and monitor installations; take pictures7. Monitor through season to provide encouragement, support, and appreciation for

everyone involved; take lots more pictures and document progress8. Plan and host a potluck celebration; take more pictures and thank everyone9. Collect data and testimonials; evaluate and write up your project10.Present project findings and experiences to any and all interested parties

Summer crop beds at Central Park Place


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Step Five: The Celebration

The potluck celebration is the place for all to shine and share. For the gardeners, it is anopportunity to tell their stories, meet other gardeners, and to give back to the community bysharing their bounty of delicious produce. Mentors appreciate this time to enjoy the fruits o

their mentorship. Organizers and partners come together in celebration of a project withresults often beyond their initial goals and objectives.

Celebrations are detail-intensive so enlist the support of volunteers and delegate tasks amongthem. Begin planning the celebration by mid-summer. Find a central place with a kitchen andplenty of room to accommodate your guests and reserve it early. The Clark PUD communityroom was a great venue for our largest celebration. Community rooms at apartment complexeor churches may be better options for some projects.

Be sure to include everyoneon the guest list: funders, officials, managers, directors,landlords, and business owners in addition to all gardeners, mentors, and volunteers. Sendinvitations at least three weeks in advance. Be sure that gardeners and mentors know to brindishes made with produce from their gardens. To round out our menu, we provided bread,herb butter, desserts of locally grown fruit, and water flavored with mint and cucumbers. Aninvitation sample is included in the attachments.

Fun, informative displays can be made with pictures, and quotes from gardeners and mentors.We posted ours on tri-fold posters to stand alone. Laminating with clear contact paper is an

inexpensive, effective way to preserve posters for future displays.

Awarding certificates of accomplishment and appreciation acknowledges individual efforts ancontributions. When possible and appropriate, invite the media to cover your celebration.Take lots of pictures to document the event and for future presentations.

Ashley helping out at the 2007 potluck celebration.


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Step Six: The Evaluation

Evaluating your project will provide much useful information to guide you in future projects.Input from participants and mentors is invaluable. How else will you know what worked, whatdidnt, what was missing, and what could have been better? Information about connections

made during the project may lead to partnerships in the future which can cut costs, increaseparticipation, and ease the process.

Since most funding is driven by data reflecting a need or results, it is very important to planwhat information you want to collect and collect it in a way that you will give answers to yourquestions. We used a pre/post survey to gather baseline data to compare and measurechanges in participants gardening knowledge and skill levels as well as in their physical activityand nutrition. Soliciting both short and long answers provides a wealth of data from which tomeasure your success. Our mentors also completed surveys at the end to provide input on the

process and to rate their satisfaction with participation.

Data can be compiled into reports for your funders, partners, and participants to illustrateproject outcomes. The data from our projects was written into a report, and abstract, andarticles for the newspaper and a professional journal. We pulled it all into a logic model whichis a one-page illustration of a project from beginning to end. See our logic model in theappendix.


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A Garden Primer

This primer was written to give you basic gardening information but the knowledge and wisdomof experienced gardeners is invaluable. We strongly encourage you to seek the advice of manfine gardening experts in your communities and of those listed in the resources section.

Where to Plant: Site, Soil, Water, and Safety

Site

All plants need sun, some more than others. The amount of sunlight depends on the type ofplant. Large flowering or fruiting plants need twelve-plus hours of sunlight per day. Theseplants are referred to as warm weather plants or summer crops and include tomatoes,peppers, squash, beans, cucumbers, corn, eggplant, melons, potatoes, and sunflowers. Cool

weather crops are those which grow well spring and fall. They grow with less sun but stillneed at least eight hours per day to thrive and produce. Cool weather crops include spinach,lettuces, other greens, radishes, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, onions, and garlic. If a gardenwith cool weather plants gets too much sunespecially true for south or west facing beds--build shade barriers or plant sun-sensitive plants in the shade of larger sun-loving plants.

Trees and shrubs will block sun so dont put beds too near these. Young trees and shrubberymay not cause shade now but might in a few years. Also, larger plants will suck up water andnutrients from young starts and seeds.

Try to put the garden on flat or slightly sloping ground in well-drained soil so it is easier tolevel and wont sit in a puddle which will be messy and cause rot. Slight southern slopes areusually a great location for maximizing sun. If the sunniest site is on a hillside, be creativewith terracing. Retaining walls can provide stable support and are a great spot for pockets ofherbs, or for trailing flowers or vining vegetables to hang over.

Soil

The best garden soil is loose enough so roots can grow freely, drains well yet retains moisture

is slightly acidic (pH between 6.2 -7.0), and provides lots of nutrients for healthy plantgrowth. For in-ground gardens, amendments may be needed to improve the soils balance ofnutrients and texture. Adding organic matter, or compost, will create a balanced, crumbly soilthat water and air can easily move through so roots can grow easily. Learn more about making

your own compost in the how to section. Raised beds should be filled with a light, nutrient-rich mixture so young plants have what they need to thrive.

Water

Water is as important as sun and soil for healthy plants so site gardens near a water source.Larger, community gardens need to be close to several spigots and have agreements in place


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with city or county authorities for billing. Teach community gardeners about any security orsafety systems so they can get water when they need it. Put home gardens near a faucet ifpossible and keep hoses, watering cans, or buckets nearby. Be careful when dragging hosesaround since they can easily damage plants. More about watering plants is covered in the howto section.

SafetyGardens should be in well marked areas safely away from busy streets. They should also be agood distance away from industrial areas or factories that may contaminate nearby water, airor soil. Planting a community garden adds significantly to the beauty, pride, and safety ofneighborhoods.

What to Plant

Hardiness Zones/Heat Zones

Gardeners should plant what they want to eat but it doesnt always work out that way. Climatand elevation play a key role in determining which plants will grow where. To decreasefrustration and waste by trial and error, plant hardiness zones, or climate zones, were set upby the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) as a guide to help determine whichplants grow best in what climates. Hardiness zones show the lowest average temperature it wget in each zone every year with Zone 1 being the coldest and Zone 11 being the warmest.Southwest Washington is mostly in Climate Zone 8. The criteria for these zones will vary evenwithin a few miles due to natural conditions such as altitude, wind, humidity, and heat.

There is also a heat zone map based on the average number of days the temperature is 86degrees or more. Eighty-six degrees is the temperature at which plants begin sufferingdamage to their branches and leaves. Southwest Washington is in Heat Zone 4, having 14-30days hotter than 86 degrees. Heat Zone, like Hardiness Zone also is affected by otherconditions but the biggest problem with heat is water supply. Warm weather crops can takemore direct heat and usually arent damaged until temperatures reach 95 degrees but ALLplants need lots of water in severe heat. Always keep a check on the water needs of yourplants, especially those in raised beds and containers.

Knowing the hardiness and heat zones helps gardeners choose plants and seeds that do well intheir areas. This information is often included on seed packs or with planting instructions.Experience over time will help gardeners learn what will thrive in their gardens.

Selecting Seeds

Buy quality, disease-resistant seeds from a reliable dealer and shop early for best selectionand sales. Seed packets offer important planting information and often a drawing or photo ofmature plants which is very helpful to new gardeners. Sharing seeds with others is a fun,educational, and free way to increase your gardening knowledge and bounty.


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New seeds may have better germination rates, but seeds that were saved and stored properlywill be good for several years. Never save seed from hybrid plants because over time they wiproduce inferior plants. Examples of some hybrid plants are eggplant, bell peppers, broccoli,and most corn. Below is a table of typical storage lives assuming seeds are kept cool, dark, anddry.

Storage Life of Most Seeds1 year 2 years 3 years 4 years 5 years

Onions Chives Beans Cauliflower Collards

Parsley Corn Broccoli Heirloom tomatoes Cucumber

Spinach Hot peppers Cabbage Kale Lettuce

Carrots PumpkinCelery Radishes

Marigolds Squash

Peas Swiss Chard

Watermelon

Selecting Plants

Vegetable plants, also known as starts, are often the only chance for long-season vegetableslike tomatoes, peppers, and broccoli. Buy plant starts sales hosted by horticulture programs,nurseries, or garden centers of variety stores. Choose plants that are strong, straight, anddeep green without yellowing or insect damage. Plants bought from outside stands will be readto go in the ground but those from a green house or windowsill will need time to slowly adjust

to the outside. Abrupt temperature changes can shock, stunt, or even kill tender plants.Helping plants adjust to the outside is called hardening off and is further explained in theplanting section.

Think about the mature size of the plants youre choosing for your garden beds. In large, in-ground plots space isnt too much of a problem, but smaller raised beds can quickly become

jungles. Two zucchinis will overtake a small bed. Seed packets and most plant starts will haveinformation on mature size and whether or not plants will need to be supported with stakes,cages, or trellises.

When to Plant

Starting early increases production and variety of a garden. In our area, many cool seasoncrops can be planted in early spring when the soil temperature is around 50 degrees. Warmseason crops wont do well until the ground is above 60 degrees. Seed packets, plant labels andexperienced gardeners can give guidance on planting times. Planting early, mid-season, and latcrops is called succession planting. Well timed succession plantings provide a steady supply ofproduce from spring through fall and helps lessen bumper crop madness.


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How to Plant

There are several ways to plant a garden; the method chosen depends on the layout. For largin-ground plots, single-row furrows or wide row plantings are most typical. Seed packets orplanting guides will tell you how far apart to plant. Some gardens may include hill plantings

where vining plants like squash and cucumbers are planted in small hills to allow the roots tospread out and the vine to grow freely. The hills are planted with 4-6 seeds. Once growing,thin the starts to no more than three plants.

Our projects used raised beds which were filled with a special soil mix and overlaid with a grithat divided them into one foot squares. The squares were then planted with one, four, nine,or sixteen seeds or plants depending on how big the plant would be when mature. All theinformation needed for this type of planting is found in The All New Square Foot Gardeningbook by Mel Bartholomew. See the resources section for information on Mels book.

The depth seeds are planted depends on their size. Small seeds should be lightly covered with of soil. Larger seeds should be planted the depth that is about of the seeds width. Seepackets and planting tags will provide information on planting. All seeds should be kept moistduring their germination period.

Seeds are ready to plant when soil reaches the right temperature: 50 degrees for cool seasonplants and 60 degrees or more for warm season plants. Dig a small hole, put in one or twoseeds, cover lightly with soil and water well. While most instructions tell you to over plant,then thin, why not plant only what you need in the first place? This will save time, work, and

seeds. No need to plant something only to pull it up two weeks later.

Starts bought from outdoor stands are ready to go in the ground. Those bought fromgreenhouses or started indoors need to be hardened off before planting by graduallyexposing them to the outside. Begin to harden off your plants about a week before theirtransplant date which is found on the seed packet or with planting instructions. Set plants outin a protected, shady spot during the day and bring them in at night and if the weather turnscold, windy, or rainy. Leave them out a bit longer each day so that by the end of the week,theyll be tough enough to bask in the sunshine all day. Transplant seedlings into the garden on

an overcast, even misty day if possible, to ease the shock of moving from the pot to ground.

Consider companion planting which is based on the idea that certain plants do better in thecompany of certain other plants. One plant may benefit another by enriching the soil withnutrients or by improving conditions above ground like the shade produced by a tall, sun-lovingplant for a low-growing cooler plant. A companion planting chart is found below:ng?

Some plants do better when in the company of other plants. Companion planting is using this knowledge to increase plant performance boas insect control and to take advantage of the symbiotic relationships between plants.plant varieties and cropping practices.


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Table 1. COMPANION PLANTING CHART FOR HOME & MARKET GARDENING (compiled from

traditional literature on companion planting)

CROP COMPANIONS INCOMPATIBLE

Asparagus Tomato, Parsley, Basil

Beans Most Vegetables & Herbs

Beans, BushIrish Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry,

Celery, Summer SavoryOnion

Beans, Pole Corn, Summer Savory, Radish Onion, Beets, Kohlrabi, Sunflowe

Cabbage FamilyAromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family,Chamomile, Spinach, Chard

Dill, Strawberries, Pole Beans,Tomato

CarrotsEnglish Pea, Lettuce, Rosemary, Onion Family,

Sage, TomatoDill

CeleryOnion & Cabbage Families, Tomato, Bush

Beans, Nasturtium

CornIrish Potato, Beans, English Pea, Pumpkin,Cucumber, Squash

Tomato

Cucumber Beans, Corn, English Pea, Sunflowers, Radish Irish Potato, Aromatic Herbs

Eggplant Beans, Marigold

Lettuce Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber

Onion FamilyBeets, Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage Family,

Summer SavoryBeans, English Peas

Parsley Tomato, Asparagus

Pea, EnglishCarrots, Radish, Turnip, Cucumber, Corn,Beans

Onion Family, Gladiolus, IrishPotato

Potato, IrishBeans, Corn, Cabbage Family, Marigolds,

Horseradish

Pumpkin, Squash, Tomato,

Cucumber, Sunflower

Pumpkins Corn, Marigold Irish Potato

Radish English Pea, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber Hyssop

Spinach Strawberry, Favba Bean

Squash Nasturtium, Corn, Marigold Irish Potato

TomatoOnion Family, Nasturtium, Marigold,

Asparagus, Carrot, Parsley, Cucumber

Irish Potato, Fennel, Cabbage

Family

Turnip English Pea Irish Potato

http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/complant.html#chart (companion planting chart)


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Watering

There is an art to watering well: not enough and plants will stunt, shrivel, and die. Too muchand theyll rot or die from lack of oxygen. Plants like sun-warmed so keep a bucket full nearbyand refill it after each watering to be ready next time. Warm water gets a little deeper intothe soil so more quickly increases the soil temperature and helps plants absorb nutrientsfaster in spring and late fall. Water the roots only by lifting the leaves and slowly pouringwater directly into the ground. This way water goes where it is most needed and reduces therisks of fungal infections in plants.

Overhead watering drenches some plants with too much water while others dont get enough.Also, the gardener is too far away to closely check out the plants for any problems. Besides,hoses will hurt plants if they are dragged over them. If you must use a hose, have a shut offvalve for the end and an extension hand wand with a spray nozzle. This helps direct the wateunder the leaves to the roots, thus keeping most of the plant dry. Keep the hose coiled in thesun but be careful that the water is not too hot for use. Drip systems can be very efficient

when they deliver water when and where it is needed but they may also be expensive.

Seeds and seedlings need consistent moisture until well-established. Spring rains will takecare of some days but gardeners need to keep watch for signs of under- or over-watering.Over-watering is the more common problem. Too much water causes stems to wilt, leaves toturn yellow, and mold to grow. Over-watered plants may appear to need water because theirstems wilt and their leaves may turn yellow and fall off. Check the soil! If its wet, dontwater again until it has dried out a bit.

Once growing well, water needs will vary depending on size, season, weather, and growthdemands of individual plants. New gardeners will gain confidence about wateringandeverything else--with experience.

Protecting the garden

Your garden is a living labor of love that will need protection at times. The most commonharmful elements will be weather and critters. In all the excitement of spring planting, wesometimes forget frosts are still likely. The average last day of frost for Vancouver is April

12. The Safe Date, the day on which nine of the ten previous years the last frost hadalready occurred, is May 14. There is only a 10% chance of a frost after this date.

Covering your tender young plants can save them from frost damage. Cloth and paper workwell for covers; use plastic as a last resort. Try cloth shower curtains, old blankets, pillowcases for tall plants, newspapers, or tarps. Drape covers over supports and secure tightly incase of high winds. Water plants well before covering since water carries heat from theground upwards into the plant. Remember to remove covers the next day-especially plasticcovers which can create a hothouse effect and overheat plants.


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Wind and hail can also cause a lot of damage to your garden. When possible, put you gardenbeds in the most protected site that still receives plenty of sun. Solid walls are the bestprotection against strong winds. Temporary barriers made of hay bales can provide some windprotection and simple but sturdy tent structures can be effective against winds and hail.

Animals can be another cause of damage to your garden. Deer, rabbits and squirrels arenotorious for devouring young starts from above while moles and voles can feast and destroyfrom below. Dogs can accidentally trample the garden while cats may find it an exceptionallitter box. Fencing from above and below can be very effective against all these creatureswhile still allowing for sun, water, and attention to reach your plants. Check with otherexperienced gardeners and in the resources section for more ideas and information onprotecting your garden.

Diseases and Pests

The healthier your garden is, the fewer problems it will have with pests and disease. Growingyour plants in a sunny location in healthy soil and giving them the right amount of water will gofar in promoting a thriving, verdant garden. Close attention to your garden each day will let yocatch and address problems early. Early signs of disease include spotting, discoloration, andchanges in plant structure like curling leaves or wilting stems. For accurate identification andwhat to do, seek the advice of an expert gardener such as a master gardener from WSU.

There are both good and bad garden insects. The goal is to attract and retain the good bugswhile keeping the bad bugs away. Beneficial insects help gardens by eating harmful pests,

pollinating plants, composting and improving soil, and by being food for birds and other animalsthat also eat pests. Attract common beneficial bugs like bees, dragonflies, and ladybugs byplanting flowers, having a water source nearby, and by leaving some of your yard wild tocreate a safe home for insects. See resources for Bugs and Pests: The Good, The Bad, andthe Downright Ugly, a handy identification and information brochure produced by ClarkCounty Solid Waste and WSU Extension.

Harvesting

Now comes the happiest part of gardening: harvesting your beautiful, delicious, nutritiousproduce. The key to harvesting is timing. If picked too soon, vegetables can be tough or softand lacking in taste and nutrients. If picked too late, again they may be tough and fibrous ortoo soft and mushy with an off or bland taste. Weather is the determining factor affectingplant maturity. Many sunny days can ripen some plants early while cooler, rainy weather maydelay or prevent ripening at all (think green tomatoes) Information about typical days tomaturity is generally listed on seed packets. Harvest tables, like the one on the next page, aralso a helpful guideline. Taste, texture, and experience will guide you in harvesting the perfecprize.


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Vegetable Part Eaten Too Early Optimum Too Late

Artichoke, Globe Immature bloom Flower buds small When buds are 2"

to 4" in diameter

Buds large with scales o

bracts loose

Asparagus Stem Insufficient length ,1*

6" to 8" long; nofiber

Excess woody fiber instem

Beans, Lima Seed Insufficient beansize

Bright green pod;seed good size

Pods turned yellow; okfor dried beans

Beans, Pole Green Pod and seed Insufficient size, 1* Bean cavity full;seed grown

Seed large; pods fibrousok for dried beans

Beans, Snap Bush Pod and seed Insufficient size ,

1*

Pods turgid; seeds

just visible

Pods fibrous; seed large

Beets Root and leaves Insufficient size ,

1*

Roots 2" to 3" in

diameter

Roots pithy; strong taste

Broccoli Immature bloom Insufficient size ,

1*

Bright green color;

bloom still tightly

closed

Head loose; some bloom

beginning to show

Brussels Sprouts Head Insufficient size;hard to harvest , 1*

Bright green; tighthead

Head loose; color changto green yellow

Cabbage Head Insufficient leaf

cover , 1*

Heads firm; leaf

tight

Leaf loose; heads cracke

open

Cantaloupes Fruit Stem does not wantto separate from

fruit

Stem easily breaksaway clean when

pulled

Background color ofmelon is yellow; rind so

Carrots Root Insufficient size ,

1*

" to " at

shoulder

Strong taste; oversweet

Cauliflower Immature bloom Head not developed, 1*

Head compact;fairly smooth

Curds open; separate

Celery Stems Stem too small , 1* Plant 12" to 15"

tall; stem medium

thick

Seed stalk formed;

bitterness

Collards & greens Leaf Insufficient leaf

size, 1*

Bright green color;

small midrib

Midrib large; fibrous

Corn, Sweet Grain Grain watery; small

; BABY CORN, 1*

Grain plump; liquid

in milk stage

Grain starting to dent;

liquid in dough stage

Cucumber Fruit Insufficient size ,1*

Skin dark green;seeds soft

Skin beginning to yellowseeds hard

Eggplant Fruit Insufficient size ,

1*

High glossy skin;

side springs backwhen mashed

Seeds brown; side will

not spring back whenmashed

Lettuce, Head Leaves Head not fully

formed , 1*

Fairly firm; good

size

Heads very hard

Okra Pod Insufficient size, 1* 2" to 3" long; still

tender

Fiber development; pod

tough


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Onions, Dry Bulb Tops all green Tops yellow; fallen over

All tops down; bulb rotstarted

Peas, English Seed Peas immature and

too small to shell ;EDIBLE PODS, 1*

Peas small to

medium; sweetbright green

Pods yellow; peas large

Peas, Southern

(green)

Seed and pod Peas immature and

too small to shell ;EDIBLEIMMATURE POD,

1*

Seeds fully

developed but stillsoft; pods soft

Seeds hard; pods dry

Pepper, Green Bell Pod Pod thin and small,

1*

Tick walled and

green to some red

Pod shrivels

Pepper, ColoredBell

Pod Pods still lightgreen and thin

walled , 1*

Bright red/yellowetc. and firm

Pod shrivels

Potato, Irish Tuber Insufficient size, 1* When tops begin to

die back

Damaged by freezing

weatherPotato, Sweet Root Size small;

immature; 1*

Most roots 2" to 3"

in diameter

Early plantings get too

large & crack; damaged

by soil temperaturesbelow 50F

Radish/turnip roots Root Size too small, 1* Appropriate size for

variety.

Pithy, strong flavor, hot

taste, fibrous.

Soybeans, edible Seeds Seeds not

developed

Pods thick; bright

green

Pods yellowing/ dry; see

shatters out

Squash, Summer Fruit Insufficient size, 1* Rind can be

penetrated bythumbnail

Penetration by thumbna

difficult; seed large

Squash, Winter Fruit Rind soft but can beused as summer

squash, 1*

Rind difficult topenetrate by

thumbnail

Damaged by frost

Tomatoes Fruit May be harvested in three stages:

Mature green tomato firm, mature, color change from green tolight green, no pink color showing on blossom end. Pink pink

color on blossom end half. These tomatoes, at room temperature,

will ripen in 3-4 days. Expose to indirect light / dont keep in thedark. Ripe tomato full red but still firm. Should be used

immediately or these tomatoes will store one to two weeks if kept

60 F. (Warm to room temp before using.)

Watermelon Fruit Flesh green; stemgreen and difficult

to separate

Melon surface nextto ground turns

from light straw

color to a richeryellow

Top surface has dull loo


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Some first time gardeners are so excited their plants are growing that they dont want to picthem. But thats the whole point! Harvesting produce for healthy meals and to share withfriends is a true joy.

Preserving your Produce

Well-planned and cared for gardens produce a bounty of fruits and vegetables that sometimeoverwhelm even the heartiest appetite. Preserving this abundance provides delicious summerfresh taste in the dark of winter and can greatly reduce grocery bills. Preserved produce isalso among the proudest of gifts to give and the most welcomed of gifts to receive.

The most common methods of food preservation are drying, canning, and freezing.Successfully preserved foods retain their flavor, texture, and nutrients and remain safe toeat for a long time without contaminants or fermentation. For information and education

about a variety of food preservation methods, check out local experts in the resources tab.

Putting your Garden to Bed

Putting your vegetable garden to bed for the winter properly will prepare it for an early anproductive spring just a few short months away. The crops that are finished or have beekilled by frost need to be removed and tossed into the compost pile. Be sure to gather up andecaying vegetables which may have hidden fungus and insect pests. Once all spent plants ar

cleaned up, layer on a few inches of compost and/or mulch of shredded leaves and work it intthe soil. This organic matter will add nutrients and air to the soil in preparation for next yeargarden.


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Resources

Local gardening resources for education, information, plants, and events:

Clark County Food and Farm website

http://clarkfoodfarm.blogspot.com/2009/01/washougal-community-garden.html(local food and farm site with information, classes, events, and products)

The Urban Farm SchoolP. O. Box 393(?)Ridgefield, WA 98642Kendra Pearce (360) 852-3728Toree Hiebert (360) 907-5814http://urbanfarmschool.wordpress.com/about-urban-farm-school/

(teaching people how to farm their urban/suburban land)

Vancouver Food NetworkP.O. Box 249Vancouver, WA 98666(360) 694-3663http://VancouverFood.Net

(local food and gardening information, presentations, classes, and events, ConsumerSupported Agriculture (CSA) farm information)

Washington State University (WSU) ExtensionCenter for Agriculture and Science Environmental Education (CASEE) Center11104 NE 149th Street, 11104 NE 149th St, Brush Prairie, WA 98606, 360-397-6060, Contact UsBrush Prairie, WA 98606360-397-6060 [email protected]

http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/plantClinic.html

WSUs home page for gardening info in Clark Countyhttp://gardening.wsu.edu/

WSUs master gardener website with moderated forum for gardening discussions

Clark County Public WorksNaturally Beautiful Backyards/ Master Composter and Recycler Program1300 Franklin StreetVancouver, WA 98660(360) 397-6118
http://clarkfoodfarm.blogspot.com/2009/01/washougal-community-garden.htmlhttp://clarkfoodfarm.blogspot.com/2009/01/washougal-community-garden.htmlhttp://urbanfarmschool.wordpress.com/about-urban-farm-school/http://urbanfarmschool.wordpress.com/about-urban-farm-school/http://vancouverfood.net/http://vancouverfood.net/http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/[email protected]://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/plantClinic.htmlhttp://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/plantClinic.htmlhttp://gardening.wsu.edu/http://gardening.wsu.edu/http://gardening.wsu.edu/http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/plantClinic.htmlmailto:[email protected]://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/[email protected]://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/[email protected]://vancouverfood.net/http://urbanfarmschool.wordpress.com/about-urban-farm-school/http://clarkfoodfarm.blogspot.com/2009/01/washougal-community-garden.html


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Elementary School Gardens

Camas Roots GardenGrowing Food, Minds, and Communitywww.camasroots.org

HomeLink School Gardens

High School Horticulture programs:

Columbia River High School800 NW 99th Street, 98665

Fort Vancouver High School5700 East 18th Street, 98661

Hudsons Bay High School1601 East McLoughlin Blvd., 98663

Lewis & Clark High School2901 General Anderson Avenue, 98661

Skyview High School1300 NW 139th Street, 98685
http://www.camasroots.org/http://www.camasroots.org/


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General gardening information websites

http://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/resources/resource_search.php?term=540(UWs Botanical Gardens info web site; gardening answers knowledge base and booklists)

http://www.thegardenhelper.com/vegetables.html(free internet guides to gardening)

http://www.vegetable-gardening-basics.com/(extensive information on vegetable gardening)

http://www.helpfulgardener.com/vegetable/2003/vegetable.html(how to plan and grow a vegetable garden; links to vegetable forum)

http://www.squarefootgardening.com/(Official Square Foot Gardening website)

http://www.heirloomseeds.com/(comprehensive gardening information)

http://growingtaste.com/(comprehensive home vegetable gardening info)

http://www.humeseeds.com/frost1.htm#WA(frost dates for Washington, Oregon, and Alaska )

http://extension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06203.htm(common diseases in the home garden)

http://w3.aces.uiuc.edu/NRES/extension/factsheets/vc-11/VC-11.html(harvesting vegetables)

http://growingtaste.com/storage.shtml(seed saving info)

http://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.html(seed saving info)

http://www.patriotfood.com/Seed_Saving.html(seed saving info)
http://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/resources/resource_search.php?term=540http://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/resources/resource_search.php?term=540http://www.thegardenhelper.com/vegetables.htmlhttp://www.thegardenhelper.com/vegetables.htmlhttp://www.vegetable-gardening-basics.com/http://www.vegetable-gardening-basics.com/http://www.helpfulgardener.com/vegetable/2003/vegetable.htmlhttp://www.helpfulgardener.com/vegetable/2003/vegetable.htmlhttp://www.squarefootgardening.com/http://www.squarefootgardening.com/http://www.heirloomseeds.com/http://www.heirloomseeds.com/http://growingtaste.com/http://growingtaste.com/http://www.humeseeds.com/frost1.htm#WAhttp://www.humeseeds.com/frost1.htm#WAhttp://extension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06203.htmhttp://extension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06203.htmhttp://w3.aces.uiuc.edu/NRES/extension/factsheets/vc-11/VC-11.htmlhttp://w3.aces.uiuc.edu/NRES/extension/factsheets/vc-11/VC-11.htmlhttp://growingtaste.com/storage.shtmlhttp://growingtaste.com/storage.shtmlhttp://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.htmlhttp://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.htmlhttp://www.patriotfood.com/Seed_Saving.htmlhttp://www.patriotfood.com/Seed_Saving.htmlhttp://www.patriotfood.com/Seed_Saving.htmlhttp://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.htmlhttp://growingtaste.com/storage.shtmlhttp://w3.aces.uiuc.edu/NRES/extension/factsheets/vc-11/VC-11.htmlhttp://extension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06203.htmhttp://www.humeseeds.com/frost1.htm#WAhttp://growingtaste.com/http://www.heirloomseeds.com/http://www.squarefootgardening.com/http://www.helpfulgardener.com/vegetable/2003/vegetable.htmlhttp://www.vegetable-gardening-basics.com/http://www.thegardenhelper.com/vegetables.htmlhttp://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/resources/resource_search.php?term=540


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Book List

Check with Library for these and other helpful gardening books.

All New Square Foot Gardening: Growing More in Less Space

by Mel BartholomewThis is the second edition of Mels 1982 best selling gardening book. It gives the basicinstructions, and guidance for gardening by the square foot method plus plantinginformation and multiple useful gardening tables.

The New Self-Sufficient Gardener

by John SeymourThis is thedefinitive book on the "common-sensical" way to do things told in a homey,conversational way.

The Vegetable Gardenby M. M. Vilmorin-AndrieuxThis is a modern reprint of a wonderful booklots of information of the cultivars ofvegetables, including many you've never even heard of--first published in 1885 but stillvaluable resource. Out of print, search for used.

The Sustainable Vegetable Garden: A Backyard Guide to Healthy Soil and Higher Yields

byJohn Jeavons and Carol Cox

100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Gardenby Dr. Carolyn J. MaleShe is the doyenne of heirloom-tomato experts.

The Heirloom Tomatoby Amy GoldmanAnother winner to follow her heirloom melons success..

Four-Season Harvest: Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden All Year Long

by Eliot ColemanGrowing veggies through the winter (and summer) in Maine.

Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardenersby Suzanne AshworthThis is the definitive seed-saving and seed-starting manual--the one far and away mostoften recommended by seed houses.
http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0761114009http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=159691291X%20http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=1890132276http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=1882424581http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=1882424581http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=1890132276http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=159691291X%20http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0761114009


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Taylors Guide to Vegetables and Herbs

by Norman Taylor et alThis "pocket guide" is extraordinarily valuable because of its wonderful series ofphotographs of each vegetable and herb described; but the concise yet completeentries themselves are also quite useful in a summary way. (Out of print)

Guide to Heirloom Vegetables

by Benjamin WatsonLike the item above, except, of course, focused on "heirloom" varieties.

Herbs, Spices, and Flavorings

by Tom StobartThis is an indispensable book to anyone interested in cooking with or in growing foodflavorings.

The Big Book of HerbsBy Tom DeBaggio and Dr. Arthur TuckerA collaboration between an long-time recognized expert herb grower and one of thenation's foremost botanical experts on herbs, this book clarifies the muddy mess ofmodern herb classification and provides a wealth of detail on growing herbs.

Carrots Love Tomatoes

by Louise RiotteThe most thorough guide available to "companion planting"--the idea that certain plants

very much help or hinder the growth of certain other plants when the two are plantedclose together. No positive science that we know of, but a principle widely believed in bmany wise, veteran gardeners.

Rodales All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardeningby Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis (Editor)It really is what its title says: an encyclopedia. No one article exhausts the possibilitiesof its subject, but it's sort of the Joy of Cookingof gardening--whateveryou want toknow about, there's at least someuseful information in it.

The Backyard Berry Book

by Stella OttoLots of handy, practical advice on how to grow berry plants of all sorts in your back

yard; it covers quite a number of berry types, with some advice on cultivar selection.
http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0395708184http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0875965997http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0963452061http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0963452061http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0875965997http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0395708184


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The Backyard Orchardistby Stella OttoLots of handy, practical advice on how to grow fruit trees of all sorts in your back yardit covers quite a number of types, with some advice on cultivar selection.

Let It Rot!

by Stu Campbell"The Gardener's Guide to Composting"--and that is pretty much what it is, a sound,basic handbook on this subject of vital importance to every serious home vegetablegardener.

Saving Seeds: The Gardener's Guide to Growing & Storing Vegetable & Flower Seeds

byMarc Rogers, Ben Watson(Editor), Polly Alexander(Illustrator)
http://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0963452037http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Marc+Rogershttp://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Ben+Watsonhttp://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Polly+Alexanderhttp://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Polly+Alexanderhttp://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Ben+Watsonhttp://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Marc+Rogershttp://growingtaste.com/food-growing-books/free.php?in=us&asin=0963452037


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Potential Grant Sources/Opportunities

Gardening projects are often funded by grants, individually or collaboratively with partnerBelow are sites for potential funding sources.

http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/foundation.html

WSU Master Gardener Foundation

http://www.whf.org/Grants/HSINGrants.aspx

Washington Health Foundationcurrently grants for rural areas only

http://www.doh.wa.gov/cfh/OHP/community-grants.htmDOH/ Office of Health Promotion community block grants

http://www.gatesfoundation.org/grants/Pages/search.aspx

Dedicated to the idea that all people should have healthy, productive lives

http://attra.ncat.org/guide/index.htmlUSDA Building Better Rural Places/funding grants that focus on nutrition and health

http://www.rwjf.org/grants/Robert Wood Johnson foundation focuses on health disparities and obesity prevention

http://wkkf.orgW. K. Kellogg foundation focuses on promoting health, happiness, and well-being ofchildren around the world.

http://www.aecf.org/AboutUs/GrantInformation.aspx

Annie E. Casey Foundation focuses on meeting the needs of todays vulnerable childrenand families through grants to help states, cities and neighborhoods create innovative,cost-effective responses to those needs.
http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/foundation.htmlhttp://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/foundation.htmlhttp://www.whf.org/Grants/HSINGrants.aspxhttp://www.whf.org/Grants/HSINGrants.aspxhttp://www.doh.wa.gov/cfh/OHP/community-grants.htmhttp://www.doh.wa.gov/cfh/OHP/community-grants.htmhttp://www.gatesfoundation.org/grants/Pages/search.aspxhttp://www.gatesfoundation.org/grants/Pages/search.aspxhttp://attra.ncat.org/guide/index.htmlhttp://attra.ncat.org/guide/index.htmlhttp://www.rwjf.org/grants/http://www.rwjf.org/grants/http://wkkf.org/http://wkkf.org/http://www.aecf.org/AboutUs/GrantInformation.aspxhttp://www.aecf.org/AboutUs/GrantInformation.aspxhttp://www.aecf.org/AboutUs/GrantInformation.aspxhttp://wkkf.org/http://www.rwjf.org/grants/http://attra.ncat.org/guide/index.htmlhttp://www.gatesfoundation.org/grants/Pages/search.aspxhttp://www.doh.wa.gov/cfh/OHP/community-grants.htmhttp://www.whf.org/Grants/HSINGrants.aspxhttp://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/foundation.html


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Appendix 1

Coalition Building:

Spangler, Brad. "Coalition Building." Beyond Intractability. Eds. Guy Burgess and Heidi Burgess. ConflictResearch Consortium, University of Colorado, Boulder. Posted: June 2003

.

Coalition Building

ByBrad Spangler

June 2003

What is Coalition Building?

A coalition is a temporary alliance or partnering of groups in order to achieve a common purpose or to engage in joint activity.[1]Coalition building is the process by which parties (individuals, organizations, or nations) come together to form a coalition. Formingcoalitions with other groups of similar values, interests, and goals allows members to combine their resources and become morepowerful than when they each acted alone.[2]

Why is Coalition Building Important?

The "ability to build coalitions is a basic skill for those who wish to attain and maintain power and influence."[3] Through coalitions,weaker parties to a conflict can increase their power. Coalition building is the "primary mechanism through which disempoweredparties can develop their power base and thereby better defend their interests."[4] Coalitions may be built around any issue and atany scale of society, from neighborhood issues to international conflict.

The formation of a coalition can shift the balance of power in a conflict situation and alter the future course of the conflict. People whpool their resources and work together are generally more powerful and more able to advance their interests, than those who do notCoalition members may be able to resist certain threats or even begin to make counter threats. Generally, low-power groups aremuch more successful in defending their interests against the dominant group if they work together as a coalition. This is certainlymore effective than fighting among themselves and/or fighting the dominant group alone.[5]

Environmental groups in the United States have long understood the power of coalitions. Rather than taking on powerful industries otheir own, leading environmental groups have often formed coalitions to challenge big business in the ballot box, at the legislature,and in the courts. They have succeeded in getting environmental candidates elected, and strong environmental protection lawspassed. Without having many environmental groups working together, industry would have had a much stronger hand in the fight ovenvironmental protection in the U.S.

How Do You Build a Successful Coalition?

Building a successful coalition involves a series of steps. The early steps center on the recognition of compatible interests.Sometimes this happens naturally. Other times potential coalition members must be persuaded that forming a coalition would be totheir benefit. To do this one needs to demonstrate

1. that your goals are similar and compatible,2. that working together will enhance both groups' abilities to reach their goals, and3. that the benefits of coalescing will be greater than the costs.

This third point can be demonstrated in either of two ways: incentives can be offered to make the benefits of joining the coalition higor sanctions can be threatened, making the costs of not joining even higher. For example, the United States offered a variety offinancial aid and political benefits to countries that joined its coalition against Iraq in 2003; it also threatened negative repercussions
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for those who failed to join, and much worse for those who sided with Saddam Hussein. Another method that can make joining thecoalition appealing is to eliminate alternatives to the coalition. Once most of one's allies or associates have joined a coalition, it isawkward...perhaps dangerous not to join oneself. Although people and organizations often prefer non-action to making a riskydecision, if they find themselves choosing between getting on board a growing coalition or being left behind, getting on board is oftenmore attractive.[6]

Lastly, coalition builders may use precedence as a means of social influence. For example, in making decisions, people (or countriegenerally want to remain consistent with prior commitments. That means that nations can pressure their allies to act with them in neendeavors. Failing to do so, it can be argued, would hurt their "long-standing alliance." This strategy is not always successful,

especially if the self-interest of the other group seems to be harmed by the proposed action. (France, for instance, was not willing tojoin the U.S. coalition against Iraq in 2003, despite a long-term alliance between France and the U.S.)

What are the Benefits of Coalitions?

The benefits of coalition building go beyond increased power in relation to the opposition. Coalition building may also strengthen themembers internally, enabling them to be more effective in other arenas. Some other key advantages to coalition building include[7]:

A coalition of organizations can win on more fronts than a single organization working alone and increase the potential forsuccess.A coalition can bring more expertise and resources to bear on complex issues, where the technical or personnel resourcesany one organization would not be sufficient.A coalition can develop new leaders. As experienced group leaders step forward to lead the coalition, openings are created

for new leaders in the individual groups. The new, emerging leadership strengthens the groups and the coalition.A coalition will increase the impact of each organization's effort. Involvement in a coalition means there are more people whhave a better understanding of your issues and more people advocating for your side.A coalition will increase available resources. Not only will physical and financial resources be increased, but each group wigain access to the contacts, connections, and relationships established by other groups.A coalition may raise its members' public profiles by broadening the range of groups involved in a conflict. The activities of coalition are likely to receive more media attention than those of any individual organization.A coalition can build a lasting base for change. Once groups unite, each group's vision of change broadens and it becomesmore difficult for opposition groups to disregard the coalition's efforts as dismissible or as special interests.A successful coalition is made up of people who have never worked together before. Coming from diverse backgrounds andifferent viewpoints, they have to figure out how to respect each other's differences and get something big accomplished.They have to figure out how each group and its representatives can make their different but valuable contributions to theoverall strategy for change (See consensus building). This helps avoid duplication of efforts and improve communicationamong key players.

Disadvantages of Working in Coalition[8]

Member groups can get distracted from other work. If that happens, non-coalition efforts may become less effective and theorganization may be weakened overall.A coalition may only be as strong as its weakest link. Each member organization will have different levels of resources andexperience as well as different internal problems. Organizations that provide a lot of resources and leadership may getfrustrated with other members' shortcomings.To keep a coalition together, it is often necessary to cater to one side more than another, especially when negotiating tacticIf a member prefers high-profile confrontational tactics, they might dislike subdued tactics, thinking they are not excitingenough to mobilize support. At the same time, the low profile, conciliatory members might be alarmed by the confrontationadvocates, fearing they will escalate the conflict and make eventual victory more difficult to obtain.

The democratic principle of one group-one vote may not always be acceptable to members with a lot of power andresources. The coalition must carefully define the relationships between powerful and less-powerful groups.Individual organizations may not get credit for their contributions to a coalition. Members that contribute a lot maythink they did not receive enough credit.

The Bottom Line

Deciding whether to join a coalition is both a rational and an emotional decision. Rationally, one must consider whether one'seffectiveness and one's ability to attain one's own goals would be enhanced or harmed by participation in a coalition. Emotionally, onmust consider whether one likes the other people or groups, and whether cooperating with them would be easy, or more trouble thait is worth. Usually when two people, groups, or organizations' goals are compatible, forming a coalition is to both groups' benefit. Bu
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organizational styles, cultures, and relationships must be considered as well before any choices are made.

[1] Douglas H. Yarn, The Dictionary of Conflict Resolution. (San Francisco: Jossey-Bass Publishers, 1991), 81.

[2] "Coalition Building" (Boulder, CO: Conflict Research Consortium, 1998, accessed on January 30, 2003); available fromhttp://www.colorado.edu/conflict/peace/problem/coalition.htm; Internet.

[3] Michael Watkins and Susan Rosegrant. "Building Coalitions." In Breakthrough International Negotiation: How Great NegotiatorsTransformed the World's Toughest Post-Cold War Conflicts. (San Francisco: Jossey-Bass Publishers, 2001), 211.

[4] "Coalition Building," op.cit

[5] Michael Watkins and Susan Rosegrant, op. cit

[6] Ibid, 218-219.

[7] Florida Office of Collegiate Volunteerism, Coalition Building Guide. (1991, accessed 1 July 2003) available fromhttp://www.tzd.state.mn.us/gettingstarted.html; Internet.

[8] Ibid.

Use the following to cite this article:Spangler, Brad. "Coalition Building." Beyond Intractability. Eds. Guy Burgess and Heidi Burgess. Conflict Research Consortium,University of Colorado, Boulder. Posted: June 2003 .
http://www.colorado.edu/conflict/peace/problem/coalition.htmhttp://www.tzd.state.mn.us/gettingstarted.htmlhttp://www.beyondintractability.org/essay/coalition_building/http://www.beyondintractability.org/essay/coalition_building/http://www.tzd.state.mn.us/gettingstarted.htmlhttp://www.colorado.edu/conflict/peace/problem/coalition.htm


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10 STEPS TO STARTING A COMMUNITY

GARDEN*American Community Gardening AssociationThe following steps are adapted from the American Community Garden Association's guidelines

for launching a successful community garden in your neighborhood.

1. ORGANIZE A MEETING OF INTERESTED PEOPLEDetermine whether a garden is really needed and wanted, what kind it should be (vegetable, flower, both,organic?), whom it will involve and who benefits. Invite neighbors, tenants, community organizations,gardening and horticultural societies, building superintendents (if it is at an apartment building)in otherwords, anyone who is likely to be interested.

2. FORM A PLANNING COMMITTEEThis group can be comprised of people who feel committed to the creation of the garden and have the time todevote to it, at least at this initial stage. Choose well-organized persons as garden coordinators Formcommittees ttackle specific tasks: funding and partnerships, youth activities, construction andcommunication.

3. IDENTIFY ALL YOUR RESOURCES

Do a community asset assessment. What skills and resources already exist in the community that can aid in thegardens creation? Contact local municipal planners about possible sites, as well as horticultural societies and othelocal sources of information and assistance. Look within your community for people with experience inlandscaping and gardening. In Toronto contact the Toronto Community Garden Network.

4. APPROACH A SPONSORSome gardens "self-support" through membership dues, but for many, a sponsor is essential for donations oftools, seeds or money. Churches, schools, private businesses or parks and recreation departments are allpossible supporters. One garden raised money by selling "square inches" at $5 each to hundreds of sonsors.

5. CHOOSE A SITEConsider the amount of daily sunshine (vegetables need at least six hours a day), availability of water, and soiltesting for possible pollutants. Find out who owns the land. Can the gardeners get a lease agreement for at leastthree years? Will public liability insurance be necessary?

6. PREPARE AND DEVELOP THE SITEIn most cases, the land will need considerable preparation for planting. Organize volunteer work crews to clean itgather materials and decide on the design and plot arrangement.

7. ORGANIZE THE GARDENMembers must decide how many plots are available and how they will be assigned. Allow space for storingtools, making compost and dont forget the pathways between plots! Plant flowers or shrubs around thegarden's edges to promote good will with non-gardening neighbors, passersby and municipal authorities.

8. PLAN FOR CHILDRENConsider creating a special garden just for kids--including them is essential. Children are not as interested in thesize of the harvest but rather in the process of gardening. A separate area set aside for them allows them toexplore the garden at their own speed.

9. DETERMINE RULES AND PUT THEM IN WRITINGThe gardeners themselves devise the best ground rules. We are more willing to comply with rules that we have haa hand in creating. Ground rules help gardeners to know what is expected of them. Think of it as a code ofbehavior. Some examples of issues that are best dealt with by agreed upon rules are: dues, how will the money beused? . How are plots assigned? Will gardeners share tools, meet regularly, handle basic maintenance?

10. HELP MEMBERS KEEP IN TOUCH WITH EACH OTHERGood communication ensures a strong community garden with active participation by all. Some ways to do thisare: form a telephone tree, create an email list; install a rainproof bulletin board in the garden; have regularcelebrations. Community gardens are all about creating and strengthening communities.


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Appendix 3

Coordinator Responsibilities

I. The People Part

Recruitmenta. Identify and recruit participants based on criteria set by coalition or grant

Inform participants of project outline and goalsb. Identify and recruit mentors

Inform mentors of project outline and goals participants served mentor responsibilities timelines and commitments/expectations obtain signed mentor agreements

c. Identify and recruit volunteersInform of project outline and volunteer needs

Education/Information

a. Plan information meeting Secure convenient, adequate meeting site and reserve it Invite all potential participants, mentors, and volunteers if appropriate Invite previous participants to present if possible Secure posters, journals, PowerPoint of similar projects

Plan menu/secure donations or funding for food Plan for miscellaneous needs: camera, tablecloths, plates, cutlery, etc.

b. Conduct information meeting Fully explain project to all Provide and explain participant packets which include:

o Letter of invitation to applyo Participant covenant/landlord agreemento Pre-surveyo Plant requesto

Photo release Introduce mentors Obtain and maintain contact list for all participants, mentors &

volunteers Set and/or review timelines

c. Collect and review packets from participantsd. Follow up on missing informatione. Select participantsf. Match mentors with participants if not done previously


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II. Locations (the Places Part)a. Determine and secure permission for locationsb. Checkwith officials for zoning, water needs and billing, etc.c. Obtain landlord permission prior to installations

III. Materials (the Products part)a. Order enough copies of All New Square Foot Gardening for each

participant/family and each mentorb. Order plant starts based on participant requests (order some extras)c. Purchase or obtain via donations (or combination of both) materials for beds:

i. Cedar boardsii. Hardware for constructioniii. Lath or other material for grids

iv. Miscellaneous supplies such as tomato stakes, wood and netting fortrellises, etc.d. Determine soil mixture to be used and purchase or obtain via donations (or

combination of both) ingredients for the soil mixi. Vermiculiteii. Peat mossiii. 5 different kinds of compostiv. Other if you decide to use a different soil

e. Purchase or obtain via donations (or combination of both) supplies forparticipant gardening kits:

i. Kneeling padsii. Gloves for each family memberiii. Garden troweliv. Seeds per participant request forms

IV. Installing, Monitoring, and Evaluating (the Process Part)a. Coordinate installation schedules with participants, installers, and mentorsb. Assure soil mix will be available and ready to add with installationsc. Retrieve and distribute plants to participants ideally on or prior to installation

day (unless beds are installed prior to planting time)d. Meet at participants home with installers and assure needs are met for

installers and participants regarding installationsi. At least one adult participant must be present for installationgoal is

to engage participants fully in process and provide education about

sunny site, proximity to water and house, etc.

e. Stencil number sequence on boxes for trackingf. Take plenty of pictures throughout installations at multiple sites


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g. Monitor through season to assure participants and mentors are well connecteand have what they need; provide on-going encouragement, support, andappreciation for all involved

h. Deliver post tests and evaluations with stamped return envelopes toparticipants

i. Deliver evaluations with stamped return envelopes or via e-mail to mentorsj. Begin data evaluation as evaluations are returnedk. Follow up with participants and mentors to assure good return rate of post

tests and evaluationsl. Begin data evaluation

V. Celebration (the Party Part)a. Enlist help of volunteers and delegate tasksb. Locate and reserve a convenient, adequate location with a kitchenc. Plan most convenient date and time and design an invitationd. Send invitation about 3 weeks prior to event; invite everyone involvede. Assure all gardenersbut esp

a guide to growing small scale food gardening projects - food gardening tool kit

Documents