A i

00-responsible-travel-sam11.indd2 2

00-responsible-travel-sam11.indd2 2

3/12/2009 1:58:22 PM

3/12/2009 1:58:22 PM

Rio

Xin

gu

São

Fra

ncis

co

oiR

guai

a

Rio

Ara

Rio

Ton

cant

in

s j ó

apaT oiR

ari

M ade

oi

R

Cau

ca

Rí o

Río

Mag

dal

e n

a

caya

l iU oíR

Rí o Guaviare

zonaAma s Rio

o

Bra

Ri

Negro

o

Rio rá

es mõ

nc

JaRio

So Rio

l

Río Napo

ón a ra ío M ñ

Río Orinoco

u

i

R

5ºN

80ºW

10ºN

10ºS

10ºN

10ºS

Le s s

r A

nt i l l e

e

Equator

Equator

60ºW 50ºW 40ºWMEXICO DOMINICANHAITI Puerto Rico

JAMAICA (USA) REPUBLIC

CIUDAD PERDIDA (p536) C a r i b b e a n S e aBELIZE

MÉRIDA (p943)With paragliding, canyoning,

rafting and hiking, Venezuela'sadventure-sports mecca is

not to be missed SALTO ÁNGEL (p966)

Deep in the jungle, witness thedramatic plunge of the world's

Famed Lost City of the Tayronas,spectacularly set and reached by

a rugged three-day hikeGUATEMALA Netherlands AntillesHONDURAS (NETHERLANDS) s tallest waterfalls

SantaEL NICARAGUA Marta TRINIDAD A T L A N T I CSALVADOR Barranquilla Coro CARACASCumaná & TOBAGOMaracaiboCartagena Ciudad

Perdida Maracay Barcelona Puerto O C E A NLa Cruz

Mompos TucupitaCOSTA RICA VENEZUELA

PANAMA

GALIBI NATURE RESERVE (p715)MéridaCúcuta Ciudad Watch giant leatherback turtles

Bolívar come ashore to lay their eggs onSuriname's untouched beachesGEORGETOWNBucaramanga

P A C I F I C RoraimaPARAMARIBOPuertoMedellín

Ayacucho Ángel KaieteurSalto (2810m) FallsO C E A N CAYENNE Tunja

BOGOTÁ Santa Elena GUYANA

de Uairén French Guiana AMAZON (p350)CARTAGENA (p538) SURINAMECaliArchitectural gem of the continent, Vast swathes of jungle and(FRANCE)Boa Vista mighty rivers are an invitation

and bougainvillea-strewn balconiesa city graced with winding alleys Popayán to exploration and adventure

Pasto COLOMBIAIpialesEsmereldas

MacapáOtavaloGalápagos Islands QUITO (ECUADOR) ECUADOR Coca p

LatacungaIlha deMarajóManta

Puerto Riobamba Ayora Guayaquil Cuenca

Belém Manaus

IquitosSantarém

São LuísMachalaTumbesLoja

Leticia

Piura

GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS (p667)Sail around these volcanic islands, Chiclayo

taking in South America's

PERU Fortaleza

SALVADOR (p317)

Huascarán

NatalThe old town of Brazil's beatingmost unusual animal species Pucallpa Porto Velho Trujillo and booming percussion

African heart bursts with spicy smells JoãoPessoa(6768m)

PARQUE NACIONAL RecifeHuaraz ParqueNacional

Huancayo Manu

MADIDI (p235)Vast Amazonian rainforest with one Maceió

MachuLIMA Puerto of the continent's most intact

Picchu Maldonado ecosystems and richest biodiversitiesPisco Parque Nacional

MACHU PICCHU (p825) Cuzco Madidi Ancient Inca peaks and valleys Ica Lake Rurrenabaque

Paracas

BRAZIL

Salvador

LA PAZ BOLIVIA surround awe-inspiring ruins buried Nazca Titicaca Trinidad

in cloud forest Puno BRASÍLIACuiabá IlhéusArequipa San Matias RodonópolisCochabambaMoquegua Goiânia

Tacna Santa CruzOruro

PortoSeguro

R gSanta CruzTacna Oruro

00-responsible-travel-sam11.indd3 3

00-responsible-travel-sam11.indd3 3

3/12/2009 1:58:37 PM

3/12/2009 1:58:37 PM

yaugur

Río

U

Rí o

Par

aná

áraaP

o

Ri

n

20ºS

30ºS

20ºS

30ºS

40ºS

50ºS

80ºW90ºW

40ºS

50ºS

Tropic of CapricornTropic of Capricorn

SALAR DE UYUNI (p207)

Arica SucrePotosí Campo PANTANAL (p311)

A rugged, biodiverse regionGrande The world's largest salt flat is Uyuni Belo providing some of the bestIquique Tupizaa surreal landscape out of a Tarija Horizonte wildlife-watching in South America

Salvador Dalí painting VillazónCalama La Quiaca Ouro

PARAGUAYSan Pedro de Antofagasta Atacama San Salvador

de Jujuy

Prêto

Rio deSalta ASUNCIÓN JaneiroSão

Foz do Iguaçu Paulo CiudadTucumán Puerto Iguazú CuritibaCHILE del Este

Corrientes Encarnación

P A C I F I C La Serena

O C E A N

Posadas RIO DE JANEIRO (p258)Florianópolis Sun, samba, sin and oh-so-muchCaxias fun: one of the world's wildestdo Sul

and most scenic cities

PortoCórdoba Alegre

Aconcagua(6962m)

Santa Fe Pelotas

Rosario Archipiélago

Juan Fernández

Viña del Mar URUGUAY MendozaValparaíso

(CHILE) IGUAZÚ FALLS (p88)

SANTIAGO Punta del Diablo Feel the thundering rush ofBUENOS AIRES Punta del Este one of the world's most

MONTEVIDEO spectacular waterfalls

BUENOS AIRES (p48) ChillánOne of the continent's coolest cities Concepción ARGENTINAboasts colorful neighborhoods, excellentcuisine and gorgeous residents MONTEVIDEO (p883)

Mar del Plata Kick back in what may beTemuco South America's mostPucón

liveable cityValdivia

THE LAKES DISTRICT (p441) Osorno

lush region of rushing rivers, Puerto MonttHike, swim or ride through this Bariloche A T L A N T I C

volcanoes and picturesque towns El Bolsón Puerto O C E A NIsla Grande

Madrynde Chiloé

RAPA NUI (EASTER ISLAND)

GLACIAR PERITOMORENO (p148)

Coyhaique

One of the world's last advancingglaciers creaks, groans and calvesdramatically into Lago Argentino

Parque NacionalLos Glaciares Falkland Islands 0 1000 km

El Calafate (Islas Malvinas) 0 600 mi

RoaHanga

Parque NacionalTorres del Paine Stanley

Rapa Puerto Río Gallegos ISLA NAVARINO (p487) 27º10'S Nui Natales Truly the end of the line; (CHILE) Punta home to the spectacular jagged

Arenas 109º20'S

Ushuaia

spires of the Dientes de Navarino

60ºW 50ºW 40ºW 30ºW

sam11 book.indb 9sam11 book.indb 9 4/12/2009 3:10:43 PM4/12/2009 3:10:43 PM

9

Contents Responsible Travel 4

South America Highlights 5

The Authors 11

Itineraries 15

Getting Started 21

Snapshots 27

Argentina 38 Transportation 46 Buenos Aires 48 Around Buenos Aires 70 Northeast Argentina 70 Northwest Argentina 89 Atlantic Coast 110 Central Argentina 116 The Lake District 125 Patagonia 137 Tierra del Fuego 149 Argentina Directory 155

Bolivia 163 Transportation 171 La Paz 174 Around La Paz 188 The Cordilleras & the Yungas 189 Lake Titicaca 193 The Southwest 199 The Southeast 225 The Amazon Basin 230 Bolivia Directory 237

Brazil 245 Transportation 255 Rio de Janeiro 258 The Southeast 276 The South 294

The Central West 307 The Northeast 317 The North 350 Brazil Directory 368

Chile 377 Transportation 384 Santiago 386 Around Santiago 399 Northern Chile 408 Middle Chile 435 The Lakes District 441 Chiloé 464 Northern Patagonia 469 Southern Patagonia 477 Isla Robinson Crusoe 488 Rapa Nui (Easter Island) 489 Chile Directory 492

Colombia 499 Transportation 508 Bogotá 510 Around Bogotá 519 North of Bogotá 520 The Caribbean Coast 529 Northwest Colombia 550 Southwest Colombia 562 Amazon Basin 576 Colombia Directory 582

Ecuador 589 Transportation 598 Quito 600 Around Quito 617 Northern Highlands 618 Central Highlands 623 The Southern Highlands 634 The Oriente 643 Pacific Coast & Lowlands 651 The Galápagos Islands 667 Ecuador Directory 674

The Guianas 683 French Guiana 687 Suriname 705 Guyana 719

sam11 book.indb 10sam11 book.indb 10 4/12/2009 3:10:44 PM4/12/2009 3:10:44 PM

10 C O N T E N T S

Paraguay 735 Transportation 741 Asunción 742 Around Asunción 748 Southern Paraguay 749 Eastern Paraguay 753 Northern Paraguay 756 The Chaco 758 Paraguay Directory 761

Peru 765 Transportation 772 Lima 775 South Coast 789 Arequipa & Canyon Country 798 Lake Titicaca 806 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley 811 Central Highlands 831 North Coast 836 Huaraz & the Cordilleras 846 Northern Highlands 853

Amazon Basin 859 Peru Directory 869

Uruguay 877 Transportation 882 Montevideo 883 Western Uruguay 889 Eastern Uruguay 895 Uruguay Directory 902

Venezuela 908 Transportation 917 Caracas 919 Around Caracas 933 The Northwest 935 The Andes 943 The Northeast 949 Isla de Margarita 957 Guayana 962 Gran Sabana 969 Amazonas 972 Venezuela Directory 975

South America Directory 984

Transportation 1000

Health 1011

Language 1020

Glossary 1033

Behind the Scenes 1038

Index 1043

GreenDex 1062