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Get the right guides for your trip

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

p• Advent sturous

PHRASEBOOKDISCOVER• Best-of• Photo-packed• Inspirational

ENCOUNTER• Pocket-sized• Easy-to-use• Highlights

PLAN YOUR TRIP

14 Top Experiences ........ 4Welcome to Mongolia .... 13Need to Know ................. 14If You Like... ..................... 16Month by Month ............. 18Itineraries ........................ 21Outdoor Activities .......... 26Regions at a Glance ....... 33

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND MONGOLIA

Mongolia Today .............. 206History ............................. 209The Mongolian Way of Life ............................... 219Naadam ........................... 222Traditional Gers .............. 225Spiritualism in Mongolia .......................... 228Mongolian Cuisine .......... 231Tribal Mongolia ............... 234Wild Lands & Wildlife ..... 237Trans-Mongolian Railway ............................ 242

95 would be Mongol (mostly Khalkh) 5 would be Turkic (mostly Kazakh)

if Mongolia were100 people

The MongolianWay of Life Every Mongolian, no matter how long he or she has lived in a city, is armad at heart. The nomadic way of life was born out of necessity in thisgion as herders were forced to move their animals over the steppes in seaof grasslands. But even as new technologies were introduced, the counremained a nomadic one, in large part because the nomadic way of became more than a necessity – it became an unbreakable lifestyle. Whtoday, more than ever, Mongolians are lured to the city in search of womany choose to stay on the land with their animals, unable to give u reedom and independence a orded to them by their traditional lifestyle

Ingredients for Life Mongo ian nomads have two crucial tools at their is osa . The rst a

MIC

HA

EL K

OH

N

Naadam Festival 1 Mongolians love their naadam (p 222 ). With two or three days of serious wrestling action, awe-

some horse racing and dazzling archery, who wouldn’t? While ‘naadam’ literally means games, the celebration is much more than that. It’s all about fun, getting together with friends and relatives, eating a lot of khuushuur (mutton pancakes) and emptying a vodka bottle or two. The most traditional festivals happen in small towns, where every member of the community is somehow involved. These village naadams are also super-photogenic – you’ll snap more photos than you ever thought possible.

14 TOP EXPERIENCES

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

1

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205GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Two Weeks Eastern Mongolia

Eastern Mongolia o ers a delightful romp through grasshistorical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid

Heading east from UB, you’ll pass the new ChinggisKhökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronationnortheast, visiting Baldan Baraivan Khiid, Öglögchiin Ker as you travel through Khentii’s scenic countryside. Ther

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When to Go

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Warm to hot summers, cold wintersMild summers, cold winters

UlaanbaatarGO Jun–AugArkhangai

GO Jun–Sep

Altai Tavan BogdNational ParkGO Jun–Sep

Khövsgöl NuurNational ParkGO Jun–Aug

ÖmnögovGO May, Aug–Oct

DadalGO May–Sep

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Naadam, July

Golden Eagle Fe

Khatgal Ice Fest

Tsagaan Sar, Feb

Bulgan Camel FeFebruary

January Cold. Damn Cold. Frozen toes and eyelashes cold. But that doesn’t mean you can’t visit the country. Hotels, restaurants and most other services still operate. This is a good time for short winter walks in Terelj.

locals. It will be bitterly cold but skies are usually clear.

�z Bulgan Camel Festival

This event happens dur-ing Tsagaan Sar. You’ll see camel polo, camel racing and other camel games.

�z Ice Anklebone Shooting

Competition

The long wlack of foddlivestock thfor horse ri

�zNav The

festival begiÖlgii on 22 family feastditional gam

Month by Month

1 8

HIKING

REGIONAL• Cultural• Day trips & itineraries• In-depth

mongolia-6-cover.indd 2mongolia-6-cover.indd 2 30/03/2011 1:41:29 PM30/03/2011 1:41:29 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Michael Kohn, Dean Starnes

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Ulaanbaatarp38

Central Mongoliap79

NorthernMongolia

p109Eastern

Mongoliap138

The Gobip155

WesternMongolia

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YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 246Transport ........................ 261Health .............................. 278Language ........................ 282Index ................................ 292Map Legend .................... 299

YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE

How to get around, get a room,

stay safe, say hello

ON THE ROAD

Accommodation The prices listed in this book are for a standard double room in the high season (sum-mer). Tax (10%) is almost always built into the price.

Outside Ulaanbaatar ac-commodation price ranges are de ned as:

$ Less than T25,000

Bookings It’s a good idea to book ahead for any accommoda-tion. In rural areas, accom-modation is limited; so if you turn up at the same time as a big tour group or if a government conference is underway, you may nd ev-ery bed already booked out. You also need to book ahead for accommodation in Ulaan-baatar especially the guest-

e you anot hard to to pitch youwalking distaimag capit

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Directory A-Z

PAGE

36

PAGE

245

NEXTPAGETOP EXPERIENCES MAP

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

ULAANBAATAR . . . . . .38

CENTRAL MONGOLIA . . . . . . . . . 79TÖV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Zuunmod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area . . . . . . . . . . .83Eej Khad (Mother Rock) . . . 86Nalaikh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86Around Nalaikh . . . . . . . . . . .86Terelj Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Gachuurt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90Khustain National Park . . . . 91ÖVÖRKHANGAI . . . . . . . . . . 92Arvaikheer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93Shankh Khiid . . . . . . . . . . . .95Kharkhorin (Karakorum) . . . 95West of Kharkhorin . . . . . . . 100East of Kharkhorin . . . . . . . . 101ARKHANGAI . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Tsetserleg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Tsenkher Hot Springs . . . . .105Ögii Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Khar Balgas . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Tsetserleg to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur . . . . . . . . . . .106Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park . . . . . . 107

NORTHERN MONGOLIA . . . . . . . . 109SELENGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Sükhbaatar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Altanbulag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113

Dulaankhaan . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Darkhan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Amarbayasgalant Khiid . . . . 116BULGAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Erdenet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Bulgan City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Around Bulgan . . . . . . . . . . 123KHÖVSGÖL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Mörön . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Uushigiin Uver . . . . . . . . . . 127Khövsgöl Nuur National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127Chandman-Öndör . . . . . . . 133Around Chandman-Öndör . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Darkhad Depression . . . . . . .134Mörön to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . 136

EASTERN MONGOLIA . . . . . . . . 138KHENTII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Öndörkhaan . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Delgerkhaan . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Khökh Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Baldan Bereeven Khiid. . . . .143Öglögchiin Kherem . . . . . . . .143Binder & Batshireet . . . . . . .144Burkhan Khalduun . . . . . . . .144Dadal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144DORNOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Choibalsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Kherlen Bar Khot . . . . . . . 150Buir Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Khalkhiin Gol . . . . . . . . . . . 150

SÜKHBAATAR. . . . . . . . . . . .151Baruun-Urt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Dariganga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Shiliin Bogd Uul . . . . . . . . . 154Around Shiliin Bogd Uul . . .154

THE GOBI . . . . . . . . . . 155DUNDGOV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Mandalgov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Baga Gazryn Chuluu . . . . . .159Süm Khökh Burd . . . . . . . . 159Erdenedalai . . . . . . . . . . . .160Ongiin Khiid . . . . . . . . . . . .160Saikhan-Ovoo . . . . . . . . . . 161Ikh Gazryn Chuluu . . . . . . . . 161Ulaan Suvraga . . . . . . . . . . 161DORNOGOV . . . . . . . . . . . . .161Sainshand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Around Sainshand . . . . . . . 163Choir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Ikh Nartiin Chuluu . . . . . . . .165Zamyn-Üüd . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166ÖMNÖGOV . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Dalanzadgad . . . . . . . . . . . 167Around Dalanzadgad . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Gurvan Saikhan National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 169Bayanzag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Khanbogd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Bulgan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171BAYANKHONGOR . . . . . . . .171Bayankhongor City. . . . . . . . 172Shargaljuut . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Bayangovi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Amarbuyant Khiid . . . . . . . 175Ekhiin Gol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175GOV-ALTAI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Altai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Sutai Uul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area . . . . . . . . . . 179

WESTERN MONGOLIA . . . . . . . .180BAYAN-ÖLGII . . . . . . . . . . . 182Ölgii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Tsambagarav Uul National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 187Tolbo Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Sagsai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Tsengel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Altai Tavan Bogd National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 188KHOVD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Khovd City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Khar Us Nuur National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 194Chandmani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Tsenkheriin Agui . . . . . . . . . 195Mönkh Khairkhan National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 196UVS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Ulaangom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Uvs Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Üüreg Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Kharkhiraa Uul & Türgen Uul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Khökh Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . 200

Khar Us Nuur . . . . . . . . . . 200Achit Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Khyargas Nuur National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201ZAVKHAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Uliastai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201Zagastain Davaa . . . . . . . . 203Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area . . . . . . . . . 204Tosontsengel . . . . . . . . . . . 204Telmen Area . . . . . . . . . . . 204

Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Two Weeks The Big Loop

Spend a day in Ulaanbaatar visiting Gandan Monastery and the main museums. On day two, head south to the eerie rock formations of Baga Gazryn Chuluu and the ru-ined castle at Süm Khökh Burd, stopping at Eej Khad, Mother Rock, en route. From

Süm Khökh Burd, stop by Ulaan Suvraga on your way south. At least three days are needed to explore Ömnögov: check out the spectacular ice canyon at

Yolyn Am, the massive sand dunes at Khongoryn Els and the dinosaur quarry at Bayanzag. From Bayanzag, go north to the ruins of Ongiin Khiid desert monastery, a perfect

place to organise a camel trek. Leaving the Gobi, your fi rst stop is Erdene Zuu Khiid, the country’s oldest mon-

astery. Head west up the Orkhon Valley, to Tövkhön Khiid and then onto the Orkhon Khürkhree. The waterfall is the perfect place to unwind after a long trip to the Gobi, so spend a couple of nights here (and wash away the Gobi dust in the falls).

If there’s time on your way back to Ulaanbaatar, spend a night at Khustain Nuruu National Park.

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One Month Western Mongolia

The western aimags off er adventurous travel and exploration. Adrenalin junkies can break out the mountain bike, kayak or mountaineering gear. Start with a fl ight to Khovd, from where you can hire a jeep and driver for a bird-watch-

ing and wildlife expedition to Khar Us Nuur National Park. At nearby Chandmani, visit the renowned throat singers. Stop by Dörgön sum for the chance to meet Megjin, a bona fi de Green Tara (enlightened Buddha).

Looping back through Khovd, continue northwest to the beautiful pastures and valley around Tsambagarav Uul. You could easily spend a couple of days here before moving on to Ölgii, a great place to recharge your batteries.

Heading west from Ölgii, spend at least fi ve days getting to, from and around Altai Ta-van Bogd National Park. With more time, consider doing a horse trek around Khoton Nuur. With proper equipment, permits and some logistic support, it’s even possible to scale Mongolia’s highest peak, the 4374m Tavan Bogd, though a visit to the base camp and glacier is more feasible.

On the way to or from Tavan Bogd, stop in Tsengel or Sagsai, authentic Kazakh villages that off er a taste of life in the Wild West. From Sagsai it’s even possible to go rafting back to Ölgii.

The best time to make this journey is in late September or early October, which gives you the chance to watch the spectacular Eagle Festival in Ölgii or Sagsai.

From Ölgii, the main road winds northeast, passing Üüreg Nuur en route to Ulaan-gom. Allow a week for trekking around Kharkhiraa Valley. An experienced driver can get you from Ulaangom to Uliastai, visiting Khyargas Nuur and Ikh Agui en route. If you arrive at Khyargas Nuur before mid-September, you’ll have a chance to see hundreds of squawking cormorants that roost here in summer.

From pretty Uliastai you can get a fl ight to Ulaanbaatar, but not before mounting a horse or hiking to Otgon Tenger Uul.

If you’ve done this itinerary in reverse order, it may be possible to catch a fl ight from Khovd to Urumqi in Xinjiang. Contact AeroMongolia or EZ Nis in Ulaanbaatar for more information.

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Two Weeks Eastern Mongolia

Eastern Mongolia off ers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest and some unique historical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid of tourists.

Heading east from UB, you’ll pass the new Chinggis Khaan statue on the way to Khökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation of the great khaan. Continue northeast, visiting Baldan Bereeven Khiid, Öglögchiin Kherem, Batshireet and Bind-er as you travel through Khentii’s scenic countryside. There are ger camps all along this route where you can stop for horse-riding trips in the mountains.

Dadal is another good place for horse trekking or just kicking back with some locals, and is an excellent destination for Naadam. Make sure to visit Zundoi-Davag, a retired hunter who has assembled a small museum at his home.

Following the Ulz Gol further east, you’ll pass pretty Buriat villages, such as Bayan-Uul and Bayandun, and nature reserves including Ugtam Uul. If you’re interested in meeting a shaman you may be fortunate enough to meet one by asking around in this area. Continue south towards Choibalsan.

An alternative route to Choibalsan goes via the nature reserve Toson Khulstai and an-cient ruins at Kherlen Bar Khot.

From Choibalsan take the train to Chuluunkhoroot to visit Mongol Daguur B, a pro-tected area for wader birds, or travel across the empty steppes to Khalkhiin Gol, a remote landscape of lakes, rivers, wildlife and historical sights. Highlights include giant Buddha statues carved into a hillside and monuments dedicated to soldiers who died here during WWII.

You’ll need another couple of days to visit the lush Nömrög Strictly Protected Area and Sangiin Dalai Nuur. From Nömrög, tackle the rough terrain in Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area to spot some truly massive herds of gazelle.

The Dariganga region, with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scattered stone statues, requires two or three days. Horse trekking is also possible here. If you happen to be in the area in early October, this is the time to catch the large migration of swans at Ganga Nuur.

Return to Ulaanbaatar via Baruun-Urt and Öndörkhaan, or travel to Sainshand for a taste of the Gobi and a visit to Khamaryn Khiid.

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One Week Around Ulaanbaatar

If you’ve got some spare time to kick around Ulaanbaatar, there is enough to see and do around the city to keep you busy for a few days.

After a day of sightseeing around UB, head to Khustain Nuruu National Park for the night to watch the wild takhi horses. On the way to or from the park, stop at the Mon-gol Tsergiin Khuree Shooting Range, where you can sharpen up your tank-driving skills.

Back in Ulaanbaatar, catch a ride to Mandshir Khiid in Töv aimag, from where you can hike back over the mountain to Ulaanbaatar. This can be done either as a full day trip or as an overnight hike.

Next, head east to Terelj National Park. There are a number of activity options here, including mountain biking, horse riding, rock climbing, hiking and river rafting. If you have your own vehicle, push on a little further east to see the enormous Chinggis Khaan Monument at Tsonjin Boldog. The company that built the statue also runs the nearby 13th-Century Mongol War Camp, where you can watch mini naadams and see artisans create traditional products.

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One Month Northern Mongolia

Start week one of this trip by fl ying to Mörön from Ulaanbaatar. Hire a vehicle in Mörön and drive to Tsagaannuur, breaking up the journey with a night at Ulaan Uul.

In Tsagaannuur, drop into the TCVC and hire a guide and horses to get you out to the taiga and Tsaatan camps. Plan for a week of travel in the area.

To start week two, get a lift to Renchinlkhumbe and then trek your way over the Khori-dol Saridag Nuruu to the shores of Lake Khövsgöl. Then walk down the lakeshore until you reach Jankhai. Spend a few days relaxing at Nature’s Door Guesthouse and then con-tinue on to Khatgal.

From Khatgal, the adventurous will make their way all the way up to Khankh on the northern shore of the lake. Alternatively, there are some gorgeous areas east of the lake in the Chandman-Öndör area. You’ll need another week to explore this region.

The trip back to Ulaanbaatar goes through a remote part of Bulgan aimag to the pleasant aimag capital of Bulgan. Further east, after passing through Erdenet, make a short detour to visit the magnifi cent Amarbayasgalant Khiid.

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Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – July 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 317 8© Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 201110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR WRITERS Michael Kohn Coordinating Author, Ulaanbaatar, Central Mongolia, Northern Mongolia, East-ern Mongolia Michael fi rst visited Mongolia in 1997. The fi rst years were spent working as a reporter and editor for the Mongol Messenger newspaper. During that period, he interviewed the president, played a lead role in a Mongolian fi lm, hosted a radio talk show and had a brief stint as a news presenter for a local TV station. His travels have led him to all 21 aimags, occasionally by bicycle or in the

back of trucks, and when he is lucky by Hummer with politicians and diplomats. Michael’s articles on Mongolian culture, politics and history have appeared in the New York Times, Wall Street Jour-nal and San Francisco Chronicle. He is also the author of two books, Dateline Mongolia and Lama of the Gobi. He splits his time between Ulaanbaatar and California. Find him on the web at www.michaelkohn.us.

Dean Starnes The Gobi, Western Mongolia Dean has travelled extensively throughout central and northeast Asia, but it wasn’t until 2005 while researching his book Roam: the Art of Travel that he fi nally made it to Mongolia. That trip, which involved several near-death experiences and a growing dependency on vodka, confi rmed his belief that Mongolia remains one of the best places on earth to experience genuine adventure. This trip, however, may have been his last. A shaman he met

in Ölgii foretold that he would return to New Zealand and father four children. Until then, Dean is happy to spend his days writing for Lonely Planet, freelancing as a graphic designer and shirking responsibilities. Check out his website, www.deanstarnes.com, for photography and more.

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