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PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Tasmania ... 215 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like ... .................... 16Month by Month ............. 19Walking in Tasmania ...... 22Outdoor Adventures ...... 28Itineraries ........................ 33Travel with Children ....... 36Regions at a Glance ....... 39
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND TASMANIA
Tasmania Today ............. 278History ............................. 280Gourmet Tasmania ........ 289Wilderness & Wildlife ..... 294Environmental Politics in Tasmania .................. 304
Tasmania Today A Renewed Respect There’s an expression from the 1980s: ‘Wake up Australia, Tasmania is oat-ing away!’ These days, mainland Australia is de nitely wide awake to theApple Isle’s loveliness. Sea-change migrants from the mainland are escap-ing to Tassie, reversing the historical legacy of Tasmanians migrating north,and savvy travellers from other Australian states and around the world arerecognising the island’s unique gifts. Tasmania’s easygoing lifestyle, cleansouthern air, and astounding natural beauty are regarded as essential anti-dotes to the more complicated and pressured urban lifestyles to the north.
n utdoor State of Mind The modern Tasmanian identity is also mirrored in the island’s ancientand remarkable landscape. Dark foliage and craggy peaks are whi edby notorious winds and short winter days are infused by the stark clar-
ne and
guy www.mes.rum ion ’ and y to
pulse
TASMANIAGREATER HOBART AUSTRALIA
population per sq km
≈ 3 people
20-tasmania-today-tas6.indd 278 12/05/2011 4:46:57 PM
1996e massacre of 35 eople at the Port thur Historic Site stuns the nation nd the world and ntually results in cter gun-control aws in Australia.
19 Homosexua
nally decriminain Tasmania. In 2
Tasmania becthe rst sta
recognise sammarriages perfoin other jurisdic
as regispart ners
ervationists keen to protect Tasmania’s olderitage continues. In 2010, a breakthroughng of the Statement of Principles’ agreementro-forestry and pro-environmental groups.
was still in limbo as several key Tasmanian withdrawn their support following a
a government moratorium on logging in
Historic Walks
LIND
SAY B
RO
WN
/LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
21-history-tas6.indd 287 13/05/2011 3:07:50 PM
Remembering History To understand Australian history, you’ll rst need to understand Tasmanian history. The often tragic story of Van Diemen’s Land is told through the haunting stories surround-ing the colony’s rst convict ships. The beautiful Tasman Peninsula scenery around the Port Arthur Historic Site only serves to reinforce the area’s grim history, both in the 19th century and in more recent times. In Hobart’s bustling waterfront pubs it’s still very easy to conjure up memories of the port’s ra sh and rambunctious past. Else-where on the island, the legacy of convict la-bour has produced Tasmanian architectural treasures, including the elegant bridges at Ross, Richmond and Campbell Town.
Tasting Tasmania At rst it was all about apples, but now Tasmania’s contribution to the world of food extends to premium seafood, artisan cheese, bread, honey and Australia’s most intensely avoured cool-climate wines. Many smaller producers are owned and operated by passionate foodies, and Tasma-nia is ideal for a leisurely driving holiday visiting farm-gate suppliers and providores. After you’ve sampled Tassie produce at its just-picked freshest, visit one of the excel-lent restaurants to see how local chefs re-spect the state’s natural bounty with their delicious creations.
Welcome to Tasmania
02-welcome-to-tasmania-tas6.indd 2 12/05/2011 7:36:11 PM
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
1
PAGE
277GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
port & rthwestTravel ing e
colate & Whiskyee major food covered on yet Tasmania’s excel-ails. In between hocolate, single y, and craft beers Sheds in Rail-
Cradle Country & the West Bushwalking Kayaking History
Tasmania’s Alpine Heart The island’s wild southwest provides endless oppor-tunities for bushwalking; choose from established or less-commonly walked trails. The ascent of Cradle Mountain is a robust eight
10a-regions-at-a-glance-tas6.indd 41 12/05/2011 2:07:20 PM
MONA
1 A ferry ride from Hobart’s harbour, Moorilla Estate’s Museum of Old & New Art (MONA; p53) isan innovative and truly world-class institution. Designed by architect, Nonda Katsalidis, MONA
three levels of spectacular underground galleries showcase more than 400 often challenging and controversial works of art. Owner, Hobart philanthropist David Walsh, describes it as a ‘subversiveadult Disneyland’. Visitors may not like everything they see, but it’s guaranteed that intense convesation will be on the agenda after viewing one of Australia’s unique arts experiences.
6 15 TOP EXPERIENCES
01-top-experiences-tas6.indd 6 13/05/2011 11:57:17 AM
yum, I feel f candy
gs.
tching nyolated sea-scapes of st the an-runy Island e inaugural ised in 2010 and Envi-ork (www.included the seabird Branca.
bern is still
now.
December Accommodation is at a premium, especially after Christmas and around New Year’s Eve, when the best of Hobart’s festivals take place. Book accommodation well in advance, especially for inner-city hotels.
����z Hobart Summer Festival
No other Australian city experiences as great a con-trast between winter and summer – a good reason for Hobartians to kick back for two weeks around New
�zMusic at MBay
Tasmania’s ultimateday musical celebratannual Falls Music &Festival (www.fallsfecom.au) is a must-atindie-music lovers. Rvisitors to the Mariosite northeast of Hohave included Interpand The National, aAustralasian stars suPaul Kelly, Dan SultLadyhawke.
�5 Summer’sHarvest i
Sorell Pick your own summbounty at the Sorell Farm (www.sorellfru
) b d
05-month-by-month-tas6.indd 21 13/05/2011 1:43:52 PM
DDISCDISCOVEROVER•Best of
tasmania-6-cover.indd 2tasmania-6-cover.indd 2 16/05/2011 3:55:18 PM16/05/2011 3:55:18 PM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Brett AtkinsonGabi Mocatta
#̂
Hobart &Around
Tasman Peninsula& Port Arthur
The Southeast
The East Coast
Cradle Country& the West
Midlands &Lake Country
Devonport &the Northwest Launceston
& Around
p141p176
p129
p90
p44
p102
p244
p204
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A-Z .................. 310Transport ........................ 320Index ................................ 328Map Legend .................... 335
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
GETTING THERE & AWAYTRANSPORT/GETTING THERE & AWAY
Tasmania is the land be-neath ‘the land down under’. It’s a long way from just about everywhere except Antarctica, and getting here usually means a long-haul ight.
At the time of writing, there were no international ights to Tasmania, and
overseas visitors to the
ports, both in domestic and international terminals, Tas-mania’s arrivals pro cedures are generally less time-consuming.
Domestic Air Travel There are major airports located at Hobart and Laun-ceston, as well as smaller op-erations at Burnie/Wynyard
Hobart and Launces Qantas (%13 13 13; qantas.com.au) Direcfrom Sydney, BrisbaMelbourne to HobaLaunceston. Qantasregional subsidiary)flights from MelbouLaunceston and De Regional Express 13; www.regionalexpreau) Flies from MelboBurnie/Wynyard anIsland. Sharp Airlines (%694; www.sharpairlineau) Flights four daysfrom Melbourne Essto Flinders Island. Tiger Airways (%93033; www.tigerairwaau) Flies from MelboHobart. Virgin Blue (%13 6www.virginblue.com.aflights from MelbouSydney, Brisbane, Cand Adelaide to Hobfrom Melbourne, Brand Sydney to Laun
Sea
Transport
27-transport-tas6.indd 320 13/05/2011 8:32:14 AM
PAGE
42
PAGE
309
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Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s recommendation S A green or
sustainable option F No payment required
HOBART &AROUND . . . . . . . . . . 44Hobart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45AROUND HOBART . . . . . . . 77Richmond & Around . . . . . 77New Norfolk & Around . . . 81New Norfolk to Mt Field . . 84Mt Field National Park. . . . 85Seven Mile Beach . . . . . . . . 87Channel Highway . . . . . . . . 88
TASMAN PENINSULA& PORT ARTHUR . . . 90Sorell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Dunalley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Eaglehawk Neck . . . . . . . . . 93Taranna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Fortescue Bay &Tasman National Park . . . . 96Port Arthur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Remarkable Cave . . . . . . . 100Koonya & Nubeena . . . . . 100
THE SOUTHEAST . . .102Margate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Kettering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Bruny Island . . . . . . . . . . . 105Woodbridge . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Cygnet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Huonville & Around . . . . . 113Geeveston . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Arve Road & TahuneForest Reserve . . . . . . . . . 116Hartz Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Dover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
Southport . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Hastings Caves &Thermal Springs . . . . . . . . 119Lune River . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Cockle Creek . . . . . . . . . . . 120
MIDLANDS & LAKE COUNTRY . . . . . . . . .129Midland (Heritage) Hwy . 131Oatlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Campbell Town . . . . . . . . . 134Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . 136Bothwell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136The Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Derwent Valley . . . . . . . . . 138Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Tarraleah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
THE EAST COAST . . . 141Orford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Triabunna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Maria Island NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Swansea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Coles Bay & Freycinet National Park . . . . . . . . . . 150Bicheno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Douglas-Apsley National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161St Marys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Scamander& Beaumaris . . . . . . . . . . . 163St Helens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Bay of Fires . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Binalong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 167Weldborough . . . . . . . . . . . 168
On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
Mt William NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Scottsdale & Around . . . . .171Bridport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Flinders Island . . . . . . . . . 173
LAUNCESTON & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . 176Launceston . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Tamar Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 191Legana & Rosevears . . . . 192Exeter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Batman Bridge . . . . . . . . . 193Beaconsfield & Around . . 193Beauty Point . . . . . . . . . . . 194Narawntapu NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195George Town . . . . . . . . . . . 195Low Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Pipers River Region . . . . . 197Lilydale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Hadspen & Carrick . . . . . 198Westbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Liffey Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .200Longford . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Evandale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Ben Lomond National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203
DEVONPORT & THE NORTHWEST . . . . . . 204Devonport . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Latrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Deloraine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Chudleigh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Mole Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Walls of JerusalemNational Park . . . . . . . . . . 216Gowrie Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Lake Barrington &Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Sheffield. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Ulverstone . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Penguin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Burnie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Wynyard & Around . . . . . . 227Boat Harbour Beach . . . . 229Rocky Cape NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Stanley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230Smithton & Around . . . . . 234Marrawah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Arthur River. . . . . . . . . . . . 237The Tarkine Wilderness . . 238Western Explorer (C249)& Arthur Pieman Conservation Area . . . . . . 239Corinna & the Pieman River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Waratah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241King Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
CRADLE COUNTRY & THE WEST . . . . . . . . 244Tullah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Rosebery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Zeehan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Strahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . 259Franklin-Gordon WildRivers National Park . . . . 262
CRADLE MOUNTAIN–LAKE ST CLAIRNATIONAL PARK . . . . . . . 264The Overland Track . . . . . 265THE SOUTHWEST . . . . . . .270Maydena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Lake Pedder Impoundment . . . . . . . . . . 271Strathgordon. . . . . . . . . . . 273Southwest NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274Melaleuca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
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42°S
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Itiner-aries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
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•RMountWellington
ColesBay
PortArthur
Bicheno
Hobart
TASMANIA
TASMANSEA
SOUTHERNOCEAN
FreycinetNational
ParkWineglass
Bay
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Bay ofFires
Maria IslandNational Park
WielangtaForest Drive
TarannaTasman
Peninsula
É
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One Week to 10 DaysEast Coaster
Spend a few days enjoying the cosmopolitan ambience in Hobart, combining great pubs and cafes, brilliant restaurants, and a heritage vibe. Explore the city’s vibrant arts scene, including the eclectic and dramatic Museum of Old & New Art (MONA). Head south to the dramatic coastal crags of the Tasman Peninsula and to
experience the grim convict stories of Port Arthur. Wind your way back north, stopping to say g’day to the Tasmanian devils in Taranna and to pick fresh fruit at Sorell. Near Copping, take the shortcut to the east coast via Wielangta Forest Drive. Take a boat out to Maria Island for camping, bushwalking and wildlife spotting on some rare west-facing east-coast beaches. Get your camera ready for Freycinet National Park and Wineglass Bay, and indulge in sea kayaking and oyster appreciation at Coles Bay. Continue north to the chilled-out fi shing town of Bicheno for penguin spotting, before checking out the rocky lagoons and headlands of the Bay of Fires.
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TASMANIA
TASMANSEA
SOUTHERNOCEAN
Cradle Mountain-Lake St ClairNational Park
Arthur PiemanConservation
AreaCradle
Mountain MoleCreek
Richmond
Evandale
Marrawah
Stanley
Deloraine
Westbury
Strahan Queenstown
Launceston
Hobart
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PipersRiver
RegionTamarValley
Boat HarbourBeach
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BonorongWildlife Park
Meadowbank Estate
Moorilla Estate/Museum of Old &New Art (MONA)
AgrarianWorkshop
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10 Days to Two WeeksExploring Cradle Country
Kick off in Launceston with a stroll through Lonnie’s Cataract Gorge, be-fore exploring the excellent Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery
(QVMAG). Discover the eclectic attractions of the Tamar Valley, including seahorses, gold mines, lighthouses and wineries. Don’t miss having lunch at one the vineyard res-taurants around the Pipers River region. Loop through the historic towns of Evan-dale and Westbury before drifting west to Deloraine and the caves at Mole Creek. A roundabout route (via Moina) takes you to iconic Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park, arguably Australia’s top national park. Spend a few days here bush-walking, including the popular two-hour return track to Crater Lake. From Cradle Mountain, drive southwest to the lunar landscapes of Queenstown and ride the West Coast Wilderness Railway to Strahan. From Strahan, track north through the vast Arthur Pieman Conservation Area, spy devils in the wild around Marrawah, and clamber up the Nut in Stanley. An ocean dip at idyllic Boat Harbour Beach is the perfect journey’s end.
Three to Four DaysHobart as a Hub
Take advantage of Tasmania’s rela-tively small driving distances by using Hobart as a hub for a variety of day trips out and about around the Tas-
manian state capital, maybe as a long week-end escape from the Aussie mainland. Com-mence with a day-long outing to the relaxed heritage streets of Richmond. Don’t miss the graceful Richmond Bridge before check-ing out the Bonorong Wildlife Centre followed by a leisurely lunch at Meadow-bank Estate in the Coal River Valley. Next, catch a ferry from the Hobart waterfront up the Derwent River to the Moorilla Estate. Make it a day fi lled with all things gourmet and cultural, including wine and beer tast-ing, lunch at the Source restaurant, and diving into the pleasantly bewildering Mu-seum of Old & New Art (MONA). Con-tinue the gourmet and foodie theme with a booking at the Agrarian Kitchen cookery school near New Norfolk. Its most popular class is ‘The Agrarian Experience’, a day-long celebration of the seasons commencing with choosing the freshest of fruit and veggies in its very own orchard and garden.
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TASMANSEA
SOUTHERNOCEAN
Ross
Oatlands
Geeveston
Dover
HamiltonWesterway
Ellendale
CampbellTown
Bothwell
New NorfolkHuonville
Kettering
Launceston
Hobart
Cygnet
É
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'The Neck'
Tahune Forest AirWalkHartz Mountains National Park
Recherche Bay & Cockle Creek
Hastings Caves & Thermal Springs
Mt FieldNational Park
#÷
Up the GutsSouthern Ramblings
One Week to 10 DaysUp the Guts
Kick off in Hobart with a walk around Battery Point and the wa-terfront. Try to visit on a weekend to experience Saturday’s sensational
Salamanca Market. From Hobart travel northwest through New Norfolk en route to excellent bushwalking in the Mt Field National Park. Visit the Something Wild wildlife park at Westerway, before di-verting via Ellendale through the Derwent Valley to sleepy Hamilton and easygoing Bothwell, maybe for a round of golf on Aus-tralia’s oldest course. Continue east to join the Midland (Heritage) Highway and linger for a few nights in sandstone-built towns complete with country pubs, tearooms and colonial accommodation. Oatlands has the restored Callington Mill and more Georgian sandstone buildings than any other town in Australia; Ross is a gorgeous colonial town with a great bakery, a historic bridge, a friendly pub and plenty of places to stay; and Campbell Town makes a handy pit stop en route to laid-back Launceston. Re-ward yourself with a tour and a taste at the hallowed Boag’s brewery and dinner at the excellent Stillwater.
One Week to 10 DaysSouthern Ramblings
From Hobart, trundle south to Ket-tering to catch the ferry across to windswept and easygoing Bruny Is-land. Allow at least three nights to
appreciate Bruny’s laid-back charm, includ-ing artisan cheeses, Australia’s southern-most vineyard, and exciting excursions to the Southern Ocean for seals and spectacu-lar scenery. Don’t miss the fairy penguins on ‘The Neck’. Return to the Tasmanian ‘mainland’, and divert west to funky Cyg-net for two of the island’s best little cafes, Red Velvet Lounge and Lotus Eaters. Con-tinue north along the scenic Huon River to Huonville. Lots of summer fruit – apples, cherries and more – and lunch at the Home Hill Winery Restaurant are tasty distrac-tions. Travel south down the river’s opposite bank to Geeveston. Spend some time in the treetops at Tahune Forest AirWalk, before bushwalking in the Hartz Mountains Na-tional Park. Continue south to Dover, an excellent southern base for day trips: go un-derground at Hastings Caves & Thermal Springs, or negotiate the winding, unsealed road out to the end-of-the-road ambience of Recherche Bay and Cockle Creek.
3 5
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – Aug 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 461 8© Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 201110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Brett Atkinson Coordinating Author, Hobart & Around, Tasman Peninsula & Port Arthur, The Southeast, Midlands & Lake Country Brett has been ‘crossing the ditch’ to Australia from his hometown of Auckland for more than 30 years now, and jumped at the chance to return to Tasmania, defi nitely his favourite Aussie state. He loves Tassie’s wild and spectacular scenery, the laid-back and upfront nature of the locals, and the island’s brilliant food and wine scene. Brett has previously
written about Tasmania’s wine and wildlife for New Zealand magazines, but for his fi rst extended Lonely Planet research trip to the state, he ventured south to Bruny Island and the Tasman Pen-insula, and conducted diligent investigation of the local beer scene in Hobart’s great pubs. When he’s not adding to his total of more than 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks, Brett is exploring the world as a freelance travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest articles and travel plans.
Gabi Mocatta East Coast, Launceston & Around, Devonport & the Northwest, Cradle Country & the West It was 10 years ago that Gabi fi rst walked across the Hobart airport tarmac and breathed champagne-fresh Tasmanian air. She didn’t know then, but that arrival was the start of many from far-fl ung travels, and the air is al-ways as good as it was the fi rst time: an exhilarating welcome home. Gabi now calls Hobart her base: with its forest and sea surrounds, it’s the perfect city for someone who loves the outdoors. For this edition, Gabi beachcombed the east
and west Coasts, savoured delicious Launceston; was wind-lashed in the wild northwest; and was breathtaken in the even wilder southwest – a sea kayaker’s delight and one of the last temperate wildernesses on earth.
Contributing Author Environmental Politics in Tasmania Anna Krien’s debut book, Into the Woods: The Battle for Tasmania’s Forests, was published by Black Inc in 2010 and is shortlisted for the Douglas Stewart Prize. Her writing has appeared in the Big Issue, Frankie, the Monthly, the Age newspaper, COLORS, Griffith Review and has been se-lected for Best Australian Essays and Best Australian Stories.
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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