©2003 texas trade and industrial education1 the level system levels / tones of hair color
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©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education 1
The Level System
Levels / Tones of Hair Color
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color 2
Performance Objective
Upon completion of this assignment,
the student will be able to
identify levels and tones of natural hair color.
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color 3
Specific Objectives
Define level and tone of hair color. List the levels of hair color. Determine the level and the base of a clients
hair.
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color 4
Test your knowledge.
How many levels of hair color are there?
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color 5
There are 10 levels of hair color
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color 6
Test your knowledge.
Is there a difference between bases and tones?
©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color 7
Bases and tones are the same
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Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness and darkness of a color Value or depth of a color
Scale of 1-10 Level 1
Darkest Level 10
Lightest A universal system is available for hairdressers that
removes the ominous guesswork & fear of formulations Manufacturers have hair swatches that can be used to
determine the natural level of hair color
Level Systems
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Referred to as a base or tone of hair color Warmth and coolness of hair color Under lying color pigment in the hair The color tone is developed from a combination of color pigments
in the hair The hair’s natural color pigment is found in the cortex layer of the
hair The color pigment is made up of color cells arranged lengthwise in
the cortex layer Natural hair color is developed by combinations of these pigments,
either black-brown or red- yellow
Tone or Tonality
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Tone or Tonality
The combination of these colors decides whether the hair will be light or dark
Light brown hair has greater amount of yellow/red cells, while dark hair has a greater amount of brown/black cells
Warm color – highlightening color Red Orange Yellow
Cool – Drab or ash Blue Green violet
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Tone or Tonality Warm colors – appear lighter
reds, oranges and yellows Warm hair color names
auburn, copper, gold, bronze, honey Cool colors – appear darker
blues, greens, violets Cool hair color names
ash, drab, smokey, platinum Influences results of artificial hair color
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Intensity
Strength of a color tone Mild, medium, or strong.
Strawberry blonde
Copper brown
Bright orange Various intensities off red shades
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Base
Predominant tone of an existing color Influences the final color result Base colors
Violet base will deliver cool results & minimize unwanted yellow Blue base color will minimize orange tones Red-orange base will create bright, warm results Gold bases create gold haircolor from brunettes to light blondes
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Activity Use a natural level hair swatch
Take 2” square section in crown area Hold up from scalp Allow light to pass through
Move swatch from scalp from scalp area along hair strand
The level is determined if the swatch and natural hair blend
Identifying the level / tone of natural hair color
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Note
Hair at the crown is usually darker that the front of the hair
Client may not perceive that her “natural “ hair is that dark Environment, mechanical tools, chemicals affect the
look they see Remember : levels are lightness and darkness
only
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ARTIFICIAL LIGHTS CAN EFFECT A PERSON’S PERCEPTION OF
NATURAL HAIR COLOR
FLOURESCENT LIGHTS DISTORT HAIR COLOR. ALWAYS USE
NATURAL LIGHT TO ANALYZE HAIR COLOR
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Factors affecting HaircolorHair porosity
State of the cuticle
Type of light
Indoors or outdoors, fluorescent & incandescent
Surroundings
Walls painted
Drape
Clothing
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Color Level
1. Black
2. Black brown
3. Darkest brown
4. Dark brown
5. Medium brown
6. Light brown
7. Dark blonde
8. Medium blonde
9. Light blonde
10. Lightest blonde
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22Cosmetology I: Levels and Tones of Hair Color©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education
Depth of Color
Up until now we have been discussing the mixing of colors at full color strength
Now we will look at the reaction we get when primary colors are mixed with equal amounts of white
Play dough 16 small white balls 5 primary color balls
Mix 1 white 1 primary Mix 2 white 1 primary Mix 3 white 1 primary Continue mixing By doing this combination of
colors with white you create different colors of depth
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Depth of Color
By using various mixtures and combinations the lightest shades are created with almost limitless possibilities
Depth or level of color indicates how dark or how light the color really is
The more white used in the mixture, the lighter the color
The more black used in the mixture, the darker the color