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Page 1: YIBAN - Politecnico di Milano...YI BAN, founded in 2018, is a new Chinese menswear brand dedicated to the use of traditional Chinese architectural lines in fashion. Fangyi Chen, the

一半YIBAN

Page 2: YIBAN - Politecnico di Milano...YI BAN, founded in 2018, is a new Chinese menswear brand dedicated to the use of traditional Chinese architectural lines in fashion. Fangyi Chen, the

DATE OF BIRTH21/08/1993 TEL (086) 186-66255627 (39) [email protected] ADDRESSRoom 1702, Building 6, Zhongzhuzaishuiyifang, Dangxiao Road, Jiangcheng Dist, Yangjiang, Guangdong,P.R.China, 529500

FANGYI CHEN

EDUCATION

• Bachelor:Academy of Art and Design,Tsinghua University Major: Textile Design (2012—2016)

• Master:Politecnico di Milano Major: Design of Fashion System(2016—Now)

INTERSHIP

• YANGJIANG HONGHEE INDUSTRIAL CO. LTD 02/2018-05/2018 Acted as the textile & product designer

• S&A International Design Group 07/2017-09/2017 Acted as the textile designer

• Jiangsu Zhuotai Smile Home Collection Marketing Limited Liability Company 08/2015 Acted as an intern designer of Project Design Department of “Smile” brand Designed independently three brand-related beding products

• Yuanye Advertisement Company, Yangjiang City, Guangdong Province 01/2013-02/2013 Acted as the Designer Assistant in Advertising Design Department Designed a piece of propaganda poster for a restaurant independently

CURRICULUM VITAE

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THE COMBINATION OF TRADITIONAL CHINESE ARCHITECTURAL DECORATIVE LINES & DENIM

FANGYI CHEN

MENTOR: ROBERTO LIBERTI

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CONCEPT MAP

DENIM & DECORATIVE LINES —— NEW COMBINATION

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CONTENTSABSTRACT0.

1.2.3.

4.

The meaning of this collection2.1 The extension and development of the Chinese style2.2 Cases

INTRODUCTION

FASHION CONSCIOUS

Brand Brief 3.1 Vision mission 3.2 Brand name and logo 3.3 Target 3.4 Commercial and market strategies 3.5 Market Position Competitors analysis 3.6 Moodboard,Keywords and Color palette 3.7 Collection 3.7.1 Material board 3.7.2 Sketches 3.8 Final product and photo shooting 3.9 Retail Store 3.10 Packages

PRODUCT

CONCLUSION

BIBLIOGRAPHYSITOGRAPHYIMAGE INDEXACKNOWLEDGMENT

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What are decoretive lines ?

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ABSTRACTMethodology

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01/02

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ABSTRACTMethodology

There are 5000 years of history and culture in China. Each dynasty has its own art and decoration features, such as costumes, furniture, architecture and so on. For example, the architectural style of the Tang Dynasty is simple, stable and solemn, and the architecture in the Song Dynasty is gorgeous, exquisite, beautiful, and pays attention to decoration. The Han Dynasty clothing simple elegance, the Tang Dynasty costumes are exquisite. Traditional decoration in China is not only historic, but also, in my view, has unlimited potential for future development.

Chinese traditional architecture is a picture, with walls as frames, and the main object of appreciation is the space within the enclosure. The way of appreciation is not static "Hope", but in the dynamic "swirling" picture, moving around and changing with emotion, and enjoying the charm of all kinds of paintings. Chinese traditional architecture is made up of lines. Column, beam, truss, frontal, rafters, arch, at the macro level are regarded as intertwined lines, these lines constitute the building net. The traditional Chinese architecture has a valuable beauty. These linear components of the building meet the requirements of the structure and function itself, but also have the role of decoration. These lines form from the emphasis on the structure of joints, or is the image of streamers, moire or creeping like abstract. Richly and conciseness is the characteristic of Chinese traditional architectural decoration. Another point I am very interested in is that in traditional Chinese architecture, the planarization decorative patterns become three-dimensional.

Compared with the 5000 years history of Chinese traditional architecture, Denim fabric is considered as a young man. JEAN and DENIM refer to the same fabric. JEAN is named after Italy tailor, while DENIM comes from SERGE DE NIMES in French.

The first thing to appear in jeans is Jeans. So who was the first person to make the twill Denim into jeans? The earliest record of "Jeans" was in 1567. In the north of Italy, there was a port called Genoa. At that time, the foreign business travelers were called "Genoese". These sailors like to wear the work pants made of a rough and sturdy fabric produced locally, called "Genoese" or "Genes", with a similar pronunciation to "Jeans".

Three hundred and sixty years later, denim was introduced to the United States by the American Jewish businessman Levi Strauss and became popular in the United States. At first, it was popular among the workers' group. With the development of the past, it changed from the original coffee color to the dark blue twill fabric, that is, denim. Since then, denim fabric has also entered the fashion group from the workers and consumers.In general, the denim fabric shows a free, unfettered, undisciplined style, and because of the many use of cowboy movies in the western United States, most people feel that denim represents cowboys, more of a wild unruly feeling, but there is no profound historical and cultural background.

In my opinion, the decorative lines of Chinese traditional architecture can be combined with the Western denim fabric. The addition of foreign culture on the basis of Chinese traditional culture can make the essence of China's long history and culture more innovative. The purpose of this project is to create a new Chinese menswear brand, which integrates Chinese traditional architectural culture into the design of a three-dimensional decoration, adding new elements of foreign culture, and embodies an inclusive concept. In this project, I will study the categories of traditional Chinese architectural decoration lines and denim fabrics, locate consumer groups, do well in brand positioning and later packaging services. I hope that in this project, Chinese ancient elements can be given a new look, and the traditional Chinese trend will become fashionable, modernized and follow the pace of the times.

ABSTRACT

Key Words:Chinese Deco, Line, Denim, Tradition, Fusion01/02

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WHAT ARE DECORATIVE LINES ?

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INTRODUCTION1

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Chinese ancient architectural art has a long history of vast territory and abundant resources. Different regions and ethnic groups have different architectural styles, but their traditional architecture has common characteristics, such as group layout, space, structure, building materials and decorative arts, which are distinguished from the west, and are famous all over the world. There are many types of Chinese ancient buildings, such as palaces, temples, pagodas, residential and garden building.

The Chinese ancestors created many patterns of art. They not only had unique shapes, but also had unique patterns, practicality and beauty, and the light of art was endless. In Chinese traditional decoration, architectural decoration is outstanding. Because the traditional Chinese architecture is mainly wooden style, and the traditional Chinese have a persistent pursuit of the essence of things. The line composition in Chinese traditional architecture occupies a very important position.

Nowadays, Chinese traditional decoration is applied more and more in modern design. The traditional architectural decoration lines are very consistent with the modern minimalist style. However, how to let traditional Chinese decoration into the modern design, inherit the traditional Chinese culture and make the traditional culture new vitality, which is a problem worthy for the new generation of Chinese designers. Chinese traditional architectural decoration lines show calm, concise, elegant and rigorous feeling. The Denim fabric shows a free and casual feeling. It can be said that the denim fabric is quite different from the traditional Chinese architectural style. Seemingly inconsistent things, there is great potential for cooperation. The combination of Chinese and foreign cultures can not only embody the inclusive thoughts of Chinese culture, but also make Chinese civilization develop and innovate.

07/08

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FASHION CONSCIOUS

2

09/10

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Chinese style clothing, based on Chinese elements, is based on Chinese culture and oriental culture, combines fashion with Chinese elements to adapt to the trend of global economic development, and has its own unique cultural charm and personality characteristics. At present, Chinese traditional decorative culture is developing at a very early stage, and there is great room for development. I think Chinese traditional architectural decorations are very close to modern fashion trends. How to integrate fashion into traditional Chinese elements is very worthy for modern designers to study. Fashion is becoming more and more diverse, and the world is a whole. To improve inclusiveness, Chinese traditional elements can better integrate into the world's fashion. The combination of eastern and Western cultures can further extend and develop Chinese style.

2.1 The extension and development of the Chinese style

In order to inherit Chinese traditional culture better, we need to add new elements to carry out innovative design. This project combines traditional Chinese architectural decoration lines with Western denim. In the rigorous, elegant and concise Chinese style, I integrate the characteristics of freedom and continuity and create a new Chinese style menswear.

The meaning of the project

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2.2 Cases

HEAVEN GAIA

was founded in 2013 by Xiong Ying, a famous fashion designer in China. It is a contemporary art brand originated from Chinese culture. Gaia legends inherit Chinese wisdom and exquisite costumes, and always strive to transform original spirit into unique costumes aesthetics culture. Every Gaia legend works choose the best material, concentrate on every detail, and present the excellent and exquisite quality of Chinese manufacturing.

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HUA SHENG JI is the creator of Chinese self cultivation Tangzhuang. Most of the tradit ional Tangzhuang is hypertrophy. Hua Sheng Ji in order to make Tangzhuang become more suitable for modern people's daily wear, while protecting the original appearance of traditional costumes, it adopted a very slim version. As the definition of industry and costume fashion, Hua Sheng Ji has been committed to China style clothing and Hanfu improvement and innovation.

2-1 2-2

2-3 2-4

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SHANG XIA is a new brand created by French Hermes and Chinese designer Ms. Jiang Qionger in China in 2008. It is committed to inheriting the exquisite craftsmanship of China and other countries in Asia and bringing it back to contemporary life through innovation.

Shang Xia, like Hermes, shares the passion for the quality of excellence, the commitment to the quality of the superb handicraft, and the continuous pursuit of innovative design. Each of its items is selected from the raw materials, with exquisite craftsmanship in China and other Asian countries, carefully carved, focused on every detail, and annotates the Chinese style of elegance.

非墨亦墨 O`docw

was founded in 2015, was the first Chinese brand to focus on the geometric map of Chinese culture. It insisted on a selection of the theme of Chinese elements every season to break up and reconstruct the traditional Chinese elements.

2-5 2-6

2-7 2-8

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PRODUCT3

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VisionLet the Chinese brand integrate into the world fashion. Popularize the essence of Chinese traditional culture.

MissionThrough the integration of Western elements on the basis of Chinese traditional excellent culture, we design a new Chinese Style Menswear in the new era.

3.1 Vision mission

YI BAN, founded in 2018, is a new Chinese menswear brand dedicated to the use of traditional Chinese architectural lines in fashion. Fangyi Chen, the brand founder, creates a new Chinese style menswear through integrating elements in traditional Chinese elements.The brand headquarters is located in Guangdong, China.

Brand brief

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BRAND LOGO

3.2 Brand name and logo

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一半YIBAN

一半YIBAN

The brand name is Chinese, which means half, representing the brand's inclusive innovation concept. The product of brand is formed by combining half history and culture, half of the new era culture and half Chinese traditional elements combined with Western elements.

BRAND NAME

The eight diagrams show the Yin and Yang system of the changes of things themselves. Using "-" to represent Yang, with "--" to represent Yin, with these two symbols, according to the nature of the changes in Yin and Yang parallel combination, composed of eight different forms, called the eight diagrams. The eight diagrams are actually the earliest written symbols. Logo adopts the concept of eight diagrams, which is made up of half "Yin" and half "Yang", changing the form with dots, lines and planes. At the same time, it also echoes the name of the brand, YIBAN. This logo also reflects that traditional culture needs to be added to different cultures and elements to get higher development and innovation.

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3.3 Target

He is a photographer who specializes in historical sites around the world. Compared with other sites, he loved Chinese h is tor ica l s i tes . Many of his works are about all kinds of historical relics and sites in China. He has a cheerful personality and likes free and comfortable life. Because of his working reasons, most of his clothes are casual and comfortable style, convenient for travel. But he also has his own style. He l ikes clothing brands with s tories and cul tural background.

He loves paintball and other role games where you are involved in first person and you have to challenge yourself. He is an architecture designer with a nice income. He likes newness and is curious for innovations. His passion for architecture brought him to know a lot of very different people and he is enthusiastic of learning about different cul tures . He wants to be unique and likes to buy not so expensive but not low quantity clothes.

Addison is a middle school teacher. He usually works ha rd . Ho l idays l i ke t o travel around the world and experience different regional customs. He is quiet. After work, he usually reads books at home or goes for a walk in the park. For clothing, he prefers simple and elegant clothes, but he wants to have some special little details. He doesn't like clothes with too much decoration.

WEN HAO

Age: 30Occupation: PhotographerAnnual income: 50,000 euros

QIFENG GUAN

Age: 26Occupation: Architecture DesignerAnnual income: 30,000 euros

ADDISON SMITH

Age: 32Occupation: Middle school teacherAnnual income:40,000euros

Sexual distinction: MenAge: 25-35Characteristics: love traditional culture, at the same time, be willing to accept the innovation of traditional culture, and try to design youth with multicultural fusion. At the same time, they also have a certain consumption ability.

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3.4 Commercial and market strategies

PRICE

PriceThe shirt is more than 90 euros, coat is more than 150 euros, pants are more than 90 euros, accessories are more than 20 euros. The price of YIBAN is not cheap, but it is absolutely not expensive. Product positioning is relatively high-end, but not luxurious, not only for people with high consumption, but also for attracting consumers with low budget but willing to pursue high-quality products.

DiscountYIBAN will do discount activities in holidays, new stores, anniversary celebrations and other special days, which will attract a large number of consumers.

PRODUCTS

Product typeA unique menswear product is a combination of Chinese traditional culture and multiculturalism.From the first menswear industry, womenswear and children's wear gradually will be extended. In special memorial day we will launch a limited amount. We hope that the diversified development of products will make the brand permeate in the life of consumers.

Product customer25-35 year old, Men.

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4P ANALYSIS

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PROMOTION

For consumersHoliday discount, activities, anniversary, VIP discount and so on.

For the cooperative manufacturerFirst, we are committed to cooperating with famous museums in China to launch cooperative clothing, derivatives and so on. Strive to cooperate with famous brands abroad. Cooperate with different types of manufacturers, achieve win-win and expand brand awareness in many fields.

AdvertisingAt the beginning of brand creation, due to budget reasons, we cannot immediately invite famous stars to publicize. We will invite company employees and ordinary people who are interested in YIBAN brand idea as models, without any decoration. Using a reverse thinking propaganda to attract more potential consumers, and also in line with the brand's design concept, anyone can wear it. With the development and the premise that the advertising budget is sufficient, YIBAN will start inviting famous models to do fashion shows and provide celebrities with clothing to publicize the brand.

PLACE

The first stepYIBAN was originally an independent designer clothing brand, mainly designed for menswear. Try to open a fashion show as soon as possible. Later, we want to expand the product line by producing several sub line brands, such as womenswear, children's wear, etc.

The second step Open online shopping and build a brand website. This will not only bring more convenience to consumers, but also save the cost of physical shops.

The third stepOpen stores in major cities of the country and become the representative menswear brand in China, and push the brand all over the world.

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S_STRENGTH

EconomicsNowadays, China has many economic support for Chinese brands. Guangdong is a major producer of clothing in China, and also a base for the development of new brands in China.

ProductsProduct style is very obvious, very personalized. Brand characteristic is obvious, it can stand out in many similar brands, and has high recognition.

CustomersMany Chinese young people now have great expectations and support for domestic brands. As long as the brand sticks to their ideals, we believe that there will soon be regular customers. Because of the rapid development of the world, the new consumption crowd will continue to increase.

ServiceAfter-sales service is more perfect.

StockMost of the products are not expendable, mostly classic, they can be sold continuously, and inventory is not big.

MarketForeign markets have been expanding.

W_WEAKNESS

EconomyThe initial investment of capital is less, and the difficulty is higher.

ProductsProducts are too classic, which can cause consumers' aesthetic fatigue.

DesignerDesigners are younger and are less likely to be accepted by consumers.

MarketThere is a big competition in the domestic market. The Internet market is a bit of a mess.

AdvertisingDue to insufficient budget, early publicity may lead to inadequate publicity.

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SWOT ANALYSIS

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O_OPPORTUNITY

Consumer groupsThe potential consumer groups in developing countries are growing, and more and more people pursue high quality products, especially the demand for mid and high-end products.

OpponentSimilar brands have not yet seen the leading position in Chinese market.

NetworkToday's network is full of people's life. The network layout of the retail terminal further promotes the network mode, making the whole marketing system more and more perfect. Online shopping has become a new popular sales mode.

EconomicsNow the global economy is developing continuously, which is a good environment for the growth of enterprises.

T_THREAT

The shrinking of the real economy poses a great threat to the sales of fashion industry. The network marketing affects the market space to a certain extent. The rapid development of the network is changing the consumer's consumption behavior, and YIBAN needs to make progress in the electronic commerce. Similar enterprises focus on the same market, competitive pressure.

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3.5 Market Position

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WE

ARE

HERE

WE

ARE

HERE

YIBAN positioning is China's middle and high-end market. The main Chinese Style Menswear is a young man who has certain purchasing power for 25 to 35 years old. Enjoying traditional culture and being willing to accept multicultural fusion are the characteristics of customer groups.

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Competitors analysis

Existing direct competitorsSHANGXIA, HUA SHENG JI, HEAVEN GAIA

YIBAN should pay attention to the main direct competitors, especially those who grow at the same speed or faster than themselves, and must pay attention to the source of any competitive advantage. Some competitors may not appear in every market, but appear in a specific market. Therefore, different competitors need to analyze different levels of depth and pay more attention to competitors who have or are able to have an important impact on the core business of the company.

New and potential entrantsCROQUIS, UNDERCOVER, MUJI

Existing direct competitors may lose a lot of loss by breaking the existing market structure, so the major competitive threats are not necessarily from them, but may come from new potential competitors.

The new competitors include the following- Enterprises with low barriers to entry- An enterprise with obvious experience effect or synergistic income- Forward integrated or backward integrated enterprise- The acquisition of non related products will bring financial synergies- Enterprises with potential technical competitive advantages

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3.6 Moodboard, Keywords and Color palette

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History

The whole hue is gray and black. And the Chinese red is added as the bright spot and the auspicious color. In order to add the meaning of Chinese auspiciousness to the fabric.

Line

COLOR PALETTE

KEYWORDS

Combination

Modern

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SPRING/SUMMER 2018 -- 2019

3.7 Collection

CONCEPT

S/S

Every nation and every region has its own cultural background. China, which has 5000 years of cultural history, has many essences, which are worth preserving, and continue to develop and innovate. In order to achieve the innovation and development of Chinese traditional culture, we need to integrate into the new culture. Just like what we see in the world, they are all part of the world.Here, I want to advocate the concept of tolerance. We can't blindly trust our own ideas. Adhere to one's own thoughts and accept others' thoughts. Time is a sphere that integrates all things. We only need to learn how to integrate into the world.Integrating denim elements into western traditional architectural lines will create new things.

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3.7.1 Material board

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3.7.2 Sketches

FROM

BACK

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TECHNICAL SKETCHES

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3.8 Final product and photo shooting

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3.9 Retail Store

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ENTRANCE

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ENTRANCE

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CASHIERDESK

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FITTINGROOM

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3.10 Packages

PAPER BAG

YIBAN一半

YIBAN一半

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We can't blindly trust our own ideas. Adhere to one's own thoughts and accept

others' thoughts. Time is a sphere that integrates all things. We only need to

learn how to integrate into the world.

一半YIBAN

PRODUCT INTRODUCTION

YIBAN一半

LABEL & PENDANT

INFORMATION OF PRODUCT

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CONCLUSION4

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The integration of eastern and Western cultures has a very large potential in fashion. Chinese traditional architectural decoration is broad and profound, architecture in fashion has a lot of space for development. This project is based on the decorative lines of traditional Chinese architecture, integrating the unique personality of western denim fabric to build a menswear leisure brand.

Eastern architecture simple atmosphere of decorative lines and masculine temperament is very consistent with the free personality of denim, which is the core of the brand. The preliminary results of this project not only retain the characteristics of Chinese architectural culture, but also show the texture and function of denim.The flagship store design is mainly based on simplicity, and displays products in large space. The color matching of product packaging is consistent with brand color positioning.

Through this project, I learned a lot, I know that the combination of eastern and Western cultures is not an easy thing, I need to study the characteristics of different cultures, try the most appropriate way to combine. So far, I have achieved initial results, and I need more research and development in the future. The future visions of this project are as follows:

1. In depth study of the characteristics of Chinese traditional architecture.2. To explore more possibilities of integration of Chinese and Western cultures.3. To create a menswear brand with oriental cultural background.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

SITOGRAPHY

IMAGE INDEX

- fabricsinternational.wikifoundry.com- textsite.info- pinterest.com- vogue.com- fabric.com - joelandsonfabrics.com- http://www.historyofjeans.com/- http://www.zhazhi.com/lunwen/sjlw/fzsjlw/97310.html- https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/25278097

- Manisha Gahlot and Satinder Kaur. Rebirth of Natural DyesS.THE INDIAN TEXTILE JOURNAL.1996,(2).- Nicolas De Oliveira,Nicola Oxley. Installation Art[M]. Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1994:181- Ansoff, H. I., Implanting Strategic Management, Prentice Hall, London, UK. (1984)

2-1 http://www.gaiyacs.com/2-2 https://www.zhihu.com/question/531095592-3 https://huashengji.world.tmall.com/2-4 http://www.chinasspp.com/brand/165292/2-5 http://www.shang-xia.com/2-6 www.shang-xia.fr2-7 http-//207.198.106.192/info/m/article.php?itemid=7467212-8 http-//207.198.106.192/info/m/article.php?itemid=746721

Page 4Page 4Page 4Page 4Page 5Page 5Page 5Page 5

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT

During the postgraduate period, with the support of my teachers and friends, I gained a lot. Looking back on the past two years, I am deeply impressed. I would like to thank every teacher for their careful guidance. Their words will benefit me forever. In this short period of half a year, I especially want to thank my graduation design and thesis tutor, Mr. Roberto Liberti, who helped me a lot in the process of completing the graduation design, but also very patiently instructed me to revise my thesis. Thanks to teachers' help and guidance, I can overcome all kinds of difficulties and achieve the present results.Last but not least, I would like to thank my teachers once again.

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CHEN FANGYI