yarns
TRANSCRIPT
YARN
DEFINITION:
The word yarn or thread is used in common parlance to cover all the linear textile structures. Yarns can be either “single” or “folded”.
“A yarn is an assemblage of fibres or filaments having a substantial length and relatively small cross section, with or without twist, being the end product of a spinning and winding process”
YARNS
SINGLE YARNS ASSEMBLED YARNS FOLDED YARNS
SPUN YARNS FILAMENT YARNS
FANCY YARNSFANCY YARNS
ROTOR YARNS
RING YARNS
WORSTED YARNS
SEMI-WORSTED YARNS
WOOLLEN YARNS
FLAT FILAMENT YARNS
TEXTURED FILAMENT YARNS
BICOMPONENT TAPE OR SPLIT FILM YARNS
CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS
Yarn may be any of the following
Number of fibers twisted together
Number of filaments without twist
Number of filaments twisted with more/less twist
Single filament
One or more strips cut by length of a sheet of material of natural/ synthetic or any polymer
TERMS
SPUN YARNS are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together (spinning) of Staple fibres such as cotton, flax,
wool, broken or cut man-made fibres.
FILAMENT YARNS are made by the assembly of continuous filaments, made from silk or man-made fibres
A MULTI FILAMENT YARN is a filament yarn made from multiple filaments, assembled with or without twist.
A MONO FILAMENT YARN consists of only a single continuous filament from man-made source.
Two or more yarns which are wound side by side on to same package,
but without twisting around each other, are called ASSEMBLED
YARNS.
FOLDED OR PLIED YARNS are yarns made by twisting togetherTwo or more single (and/or folded) yarns of the same or different types.Ex: 2 Ply (two singles)
CORDS OR CABLED YARNS are yarns made by twisting togetherTwo or more ply or folded yarns of the same or different types.Ex: 2,3 Ply Cord
Twist DirectionTwists or turns per inchTwist Factor (K)
Properties of Spun, Filament and Combination Yarns:
100%Spun Yarns: Warmth, Softness, Light Weight Ideal for T-Shirts, Sweaters and Blankets
100%Filament Yarns: Smoother, Finer and Lustrous Ideal for linings
Combination of spun and filament Yarns: Durable, Easy care, Comfortable Suitable for more applications
Twist The purpose of twist is to hold the staple
fibers together The twist could be used in different ways to
embed different qualities to the yarn A yarn that is twist balanced will not tend to
curl The direction of twist is also important for
further designing as this can be used well by designers
Yarn twist parameters:
Amount of twist is designated as TPI –turns per inch, whichAffects appearance and durability of the yarns.
Spun yarn: Low twist Soft twist yarns flexible(2 to 12 tpi) ex: Knitting fluffier
soft
High Twist Hard twist yarns smooth(20 to 30 tpi) ex: weaving firm
stronger
Filament yarns: Usually low twist Pebbly and harsh surface (1/2 to 1 tpi) Crepe fil. with crepe twist
Twist and Bulkiness
The bulkier the yarn, lesser the twist. Finer the yarn higher the twist. Bulkier yarn needs lesser twist and so it has
lesser strength. Finer yarn has more twists and strong. But when the twist is increased after particular
point the strength is reduced due to the breakage of the fibers.
Blends / Mixtures
A blend is a combination of two materials at fiber stage.
A mix is two materials put together at a later stage as strands.
The texture we get is different from each of them.
The design value of these are high.
PolyesterCotton
Polyester Cotton
67%33%
Material-BlendingMaterial-Blending
Chief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton RichChief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton Rich
Polyester (40%)+Cotton(60%) Cotton
•Comfort, Soft handle Polyester
• Crease resistance, Easy care
Polyester Cotton (PC)Polyester Cotton (PC)
Polyester (67%) and Cotton (33%) Cotton
•comfortable to wear •greater strength
Polyester
•Resistance from creases, Quick dry
Need The need for blends or mixes are.
Cost. Different quality that each fiber offers. More effective usage of the materials. The necessity of different and in between qualities
and both the qualities.
Design Values The design values of such blended and mixed
yarn can be explored to give an innovative look to the textile
More innovative processes can be explored The design can happen from yarn stage.
Fancy yarns are explorations of the prior said attributes such as
Twist Bulkiness Color Material
Blends and Mixes Material(conventional/non-conventional)
Fancy Yarns
Physical properties and performance characteristicsof different yarn types:
Yarn type General yarn properties
Staple yarns Excellent Handle Good covering power
• Carded cotton Good comfort rating• Combed cotton Reasonable strength• Woollen Reasonable uniformity• Worsted• Linen
Yarn type General yarn properties
Continuous filament yarns Excellent uniformity Excellent strength
•Natural Can be very fine•Non-synthetic Fair handle•Synthetic Poor covering power
High bulk yarns Light weight
• Staple Good covering power• Continulous filament Good loftiness and fullness
Stretch yarns High stetchability
Continuous filament Good handle Covering power
Special end use:
•Tyre cord Purely functional•Rubber Designed to satisfy a specific-•Core yarn set of conditions•Cabled•Split film yarn
Novelty yarns: Excellent decorative features
•Fancy yarns•Metallic
Variables in yarn production
Type of fibre or filamentDimensional and physical characteristics of the fibre/filamentMechanical properties of the fibre / filamentGeneral properties Yarn production systemsComponents of the yarn and percentagesLinear density and level of twistYarn constructionTexturisation and method of texturisation
Yarn types & Characteristics Spun - carded, combed Long staple spng - Worsted, Spun Silk Filament - Mono & Multifilament Doubled yarn - single & 2-ply
Stronger, Uniform, blending
Yarn twist - S & Z, TPI, High Twist, Knit yarns.
Stretch yarns - Lycra, Mechanical Slub Yarns, Lurex
Spinning
Plucking & Cleaning Blow room Carding Combing Draw frame Simplex Ring frame Yarn
SPUN YARN MANUFACTURINGSPUN YARN MANUFACTURING
Ring spinning: Ring spinning: Blow room process: Blow room process: sorting, opening, separating, sorting, opening, separating, cleaning, and blending of fibres cleaning, and blending of fibres
CardingCarding: : intensive cleaning through individualization of intensive cleaning through individualization of fibresfibres
DrawingDrawing: : alignment of fibres through doubling and drafting alignment of fibres through doubling and drafting of fibresof fibres
CombingCombing: : micro cleaning and alignment of fibres through micro cleaning and alignment of fibres through parallelizationparallelization
RovingRoving: : attenuating drawn sliversattenuating drawn slivers Spinning: Spinning: twisting drafted roving in to yarntwisting drafted roving in to yarn
Plucking.Plucking.
At this stage cotton bales are
manually opened and are put in Pluckers are machines which mix the
cotton and separate the
bales into smaller
denominations. The separated cotton is then
transferred into the Blow Room.
Blow RoomBlow Room
The Blow Room is a facility, which is
primarily used for the Cleaning, Mixing and Opening of cotton for
yarn production. Cotton is processed
through various stages in this area through
different machines and the main objective is to refine the cotton being
used in yarn production.
Carding Department Carding Department
Carding Department Carding Department
The main function of this
department is to transform the
cotton into Sliver. The main
objective here is to maintain the
uniformity, alignment and
stretch ability of the fiber as per
the desired standards
Combing
Combing
The main function of this department is to transform the cotton Sliver in to more fine and inject the raw material and also putting short fiber to get more longer fiber for durability.
Draw Frame
The function of the Draw Frame is to create a roving consistent in size over its entire length. The draw frame blends multiple roving into one fiber.
The draw frame results in strong, uniform roving of a size that can be easily managed at the spinner
SimplexSimplex
Simplex is the process of
shaping the Sliver into
Roving. The main processes
involved are Grafting, Twisting
and Winding the sliver and
shaping it like a thin rope.
Ring frameRing frame
This is function where the yarn is finally
produced. The Roving are put on the
machines used here and passing the roving
through the machine produces yarns. The main objective of the
machines here is again Grafting, Twisting and
Winding. Once the cotton thread is
produced it is collected in the form of Bobbin.