wwb magazine

—TIMELESS DESIGNExclusive interview withdesigner Chie Mihara—

—DECADE OF SUCCESSWhy Love From Australia is morethan a one trick pony—

—STEP UPThe key footwear trends forautumn/winter 2013—

—FRONT ROW STYLEWWB reports on the hottest looks from the catwalks —

MARCH 2013—ISSUE 225

WOMENSWEARBUYERwwb-online.co.uk

£6.95

wwb225 Main Document 07/03/2013 12:02

CONTENTS—

REGULARS

5EDITOR’S COMMENT

—6

NEWS—10

BACKSTAGEThe other side of womenswear

—12

TALKING POINT—54

RETAIL FORUMThe latest news from the industry

—58

UP CLOSE AND PERSONALWith Charlotte Egelund

—COVER J SHOES

—

FASHION

16STYLE FILE

—19

10 OF THE BESTCobalt blue

—21

MAKE A STATEMENTDrop earrings to get in-store now

—22

FASHION RADAR—42

SCOOP REVIEW—44

THE BEST OF MODA WOMAN—46

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK—49

THE EXHIBITION AT LFW—50

FRONT ROW SEATHighlights from the a/w 13

catwalks—

FEATURES

14Q&A

With footwear designer Chie Mihara—26

LOVE STORYLove From Australia celebrates its

10th anniversary —28

SOLE SISTERSThe key footwear trends for a/w 13

—35

FEET FIRST The footwear brands to watch

—38

ACCESSORIES ROUND-UP—

03WOMENSWEAR BUYER—MARCH 2013

21-23 JULY 2013

P H I L L I P S G A L L E R Y S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y

scoop-international.comGosha Ostretsov, Sex in the City, 2008 (c) Stephen White, 2012 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London


COMMENT—

WHEN THINGS ARE TOUGH, IT’SNOT EASY TO KEEP A SENSE OFOPTIMISM. BUT IT’S WORTHREMEMBERING THAT DIFFICULTTIMES ALSO OFFEROPPORTUNITIES, AND IT’S UP TO US TO GRAB THEM. —

“You’re always so upbeat in your magazine,” issomething I hear a lot from you, dear readers, beit retailers, agents or brands. While it’s alwaysnice to hear positive feedback, it also leaves mewith a slight sense of paranoia, as I questionwhether it comes across as forced positivity thatmost of you perceive as removed from reality.

I can assure you that, at WWB, we are farfrom trying to force misplaced optimism whenit is clearly such a tough climate out there. Infact, those who know me well would laugh atthe assumption, as they know I tend to be quitethe pessimist – though I prefer to think ofmyself as a realist, of course – so it’s far from my intention to make things seem better thanthey are. However, speaking to a broad cross-section of the industry and especially the independent sector on a weekly basis, themagazine gives me the privilege to witnesscountless success stories and speak to someamazing people who constantly reinvent,innovate and adapt, and are simply impressivewith their proactive attitudes and sheerknowledge and skill. If we’re positive, it’sbecause, quite simply, positive stories DO exist,and because it’s not all doom and gloom. Fact.

If you’re an indie operating on your ownin Town X, Y or Z and in relative isolation fromother fellow indies – especially in the clothingsector – it’s easy to get stuck in your bubble andnot see how good the sector is, how many great

indies the industry still has – and how manynew ones are emerging, despite a tougheconomy that has certainly claimed its victims.

I’m not saying it’s easy out there. I’m notsaying we’re out of the economic woods yet.And I’m certainly not saying you can all sit backand expect to do business as usual or like “in thegood old days”. On the contrary; it takes a lotmore hard work, determination, foresight,investment and simply much more effort toeven just survive these days. But at the sametime, there are great examples of indies who do exactly that. If you’re one of them, well,surely that deserves highlighting and a pat onthe proverbial back. And if you’re not one them, well, take encouragement from the fact that it can be done and look to the best of them for inspiration.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

EditorIsabella [email protected] —ContributorsVictoria [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Fashion writerNatalie [email protected]—Editorial assistantCarey [email protected]—Sub editorAmanda [email protected]—Design & productionMichael [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Senior advertising sales managerMina [email protected]—Sales executiveJasprit [email protected]—SubscriptionsCaroline [email protected]—Production directorGill [email protected]—Commercial directorNick [email protected]—Marketing directorStephanie [email protected]—Managing directorColette [email protected]—Reprographics/printingImageData Group 01482 652323

—WWB is published 11 times per year byRAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall,Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 —Copyright © 2013 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of anywritten material or illustration in any formfor any purpose, other than short extracts forreview purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RASPublishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability forloss or damage to transparencies and any othermaterial submitted for publication.—

RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLCcompany A Buyer Series Fashion BusinessPublication WWB is a fashion business publicationproduced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titlesinclude MWB, Footwear & Fashion Extras andCWB.

06WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk—MARCH 2013

NEWS—

RETAILERS FLY THE FLAG FORINDIE EASTER

Following the launch of inaugural eventIndependent Retailer Month last July,independent retailers have started to takematters into their own hands when it comes tokeeping their sector alive.

Christmas 2012 saw 50 UK towns gettinginvolved with Indie Christmas, coming togetherwithin their communities to drive footfall toindependent stores over the festive season. Now,over 100 UK towns and cities are preparing totake part in Indie Easter, the nationwidecampaign to drive footfall towards independentsbetween 23 March and 14 April. Encompassingthe vast majority of the UK school holidayperiod, the consumer-facing campaign aims toencourage families into areas and shops thatthey perhaps have not previously visited,opening up public consciousness of the smaller,independent stores that are alive and kicking.

Spearheaded by advocate of independentretail Clare Rayner, the campaign suggests thatretailers join forces to offer activities such as anEaster Egg hunt, which sees consumers collectan egg sticker from each qualifyingindependent retailer they visit. The reward forcollecting the required number of eggs is achocolate Easter Egg, whereas the reward forincreasing footfall into independent stores canbe felt throughout the entire community.

Research published by the Federation of SmallBusinesses states that for every £1 spent locally,between 50p and 70p circulates back into thelocal economy. For that same £1 spent online orout of town, only 5p would make its way backinto the local economy.

For Rayner, any local activities such as anEaster Egg hunt are merely initial steps towardsthe ultimate aim of raising awareness of theeclecticism of the UK independent sector.“Consumers have fallen out of love with theUK’s high streets, and retailers need to givethem a good reason to come back,” says Rayner.“Step one is to create a good reason – that’swhere the campaign activities come in. Step twois for the businesses themselves to showcasewhat the consumers have been missing out on.The Indie Easter Egg hunts, if wellimplemented, can deliver exactly that.”

Among the womenswear indies who are taking part in Indie Easter is Jen Garrity,owner of Coco Marie in Amersham,Buckinghamshire, who is hoping to build onthe success of previous indie events held lastyear. “As Indie Christmas was such a fabulouscampaign that brought lots of new customersinto Old Amersham, we are hoping the samewill happen with Indie Easter. There are a largenumber of independent retailers in Old

“Consumers have fallen out of love with the UK’shigh streets, and retailersneed to give them a goodreason to come back.That’s where the campaignactivities come in”

Amersham across the fashion, art, home anddeli sectors of retail and we try to help oneanother out. We have to rely on the fact thatcustomers are looking for something individualto compete with the chain stores in the area.”

This is mirrored by Richard Bell, ownerof Bell Clothing, which has three stores inCumbria. “You only need to look at stores such asHollister to see that retail drama is the only wayto keep bricks-and-mortar retail alive,” he says.“Shopping has to be an enhanced experience ifwe want to continue to attract customers intoour stores, and campaigns such as Indie Easterare a good way to promote the areas withinwhich we trade as a destination for retail.”

Following the launch of Independent Retailer Month and Indie Christmas last year, the Support forIndependent Retail campaign continues into 2013 with the launch of Indie Easter. Aiming to

reinvigorate the independent sector as the soul of the high street, the campaign targets independentstores in all areas of retail to join forces in their respective communities.

—


NEWS—

CONDÉ NAST INVESTS INFARFETCHCondé Nast International has led a$20m investment in Farfetch, the e-commerce marketplace forindependent fashion boutiques.Existing investors Advent VenturePartners, Index Ventures ande.ventures also participated in thefundraising. “Farfetch has a uniqueposition, connecting boutiquesaround the world by e-commerce tosophisticated fashion customers suchas our magazine readers andwebsite users,” says JonathanNewhouse, chairman and chiefexecutive. José Neves, founder andchief executive of Farfetch, says,“This investment will fuel our entryto new markets while assisting ourgrowth in existing ones. Our goal tobuild a unique curated globalfranchise in online designer fashionis brought closer through theinvolvement of Condé Nast.”—TOP FASHION NAMES SIGN UPTO APPRENTICESHIP SCHEMEA host of new employers have signedup for the new Higher LevelApprenticeship in Fashion &Textiles scheme, run by CreativeSkillset, including New Look,fashion designer JonathanSaunders and John Cotton HomeTextiles, who have all appointednew apprentices. The level 4apprenticeship, launched last monthand equivalent to the first year ofuniversity, is aimed at young peoplewith GCSEs and A Levels who havedecided they want to learn and earnon the job.—ONLINE SALES SET FORFURTHER GROWTHRetail research agency Conluminopredicts that the UK’s £44bnfashion market will grow a further3.4 per cent this year, with 11 percent of sales being derived from theonline channel by the end of 2013compared with eight per cent atpresent. Digital marketing agencyGreenlight, meanwhile, reports thatqueries for fashion-related productson Google UK have grown from 2.5 million in October last year to2.8 million last month. —

STRONG TRADING AT MODAEXHIBITION

Exhibitors at national fashion trade show Moda,which took place last month, have reportedpositive results, with healthy order volumes andnew business having boosted trading. Animpressive quality of independents and storebuyers was also cited.

Labels reporting a strong show include Dutchbrand Creenstone, which revealed its collectionat Moda for the second time. Robert duMosch,international sales director of Creenstone, says,“We had a strong show once again, particularlyon the Sunday –we had to get extra help on thestand. The timing of the event on the season’scalendar is good, as people are serious buyersand are ready to put down orders.”

Adele Black, co-owner of Latte,reiterated the positive assessment: “We had thebest Moda ever and were significantly up on lasta/w. We opened a huge amount of new ordersand didn’t stop for the whole three days.” Thenext edition of Moda will take place on 11-13August at the NEC in Birmingham.

The three-day event hosted 1,450 brandsacross womenswear, menswear, footwear,accessories, lingerie and swimwear, andwelcomed a wealth of new labels to its line-upsuch as contemporary brands Masai, Two Danes,Deserious, Vex Collection and Amari. —

ICONIX BRAND GROUP ACQUIRESLEE COOPER

UK denim brand Lee Cooper has been acquiredby Iconix Brand Group for $72m, joining thecompany’s diverse portfolio of fashion andlifestyle brands including Badgley Mischka,Rocawear, Ecko, Material Girl, Ed Hardy and Umbro.

Lee Cooper was founded in 1908 and in its over100-year history has grown into an internationallabel, with currently 40 partners selling in over100 countries, predominantly in Europe, Asiaand the Middle East, with over 500 Lee Cooperbranded stores. The brand is aimed at the 18-25year age demographic and is expected to achievein excess of $700m in annual global retail salesby 2015.—


NEWS—

MOST SMALL BUSINESSES FEELUK TAX SYSTEM IS WORSEAs the coalition government reachesthe mid-point of its five years inoffice, a poll carried out by not-for-profit business supportgroup FPB has found that mostsmall UK businesses feel the currentgovernment has made the UK taxsystem worse. Top of the list ofgripes with the new system is therising level of business rates, withan overwhelming 94 per cent ofrespondents to the survey reportingthat rates are now too high. “It’sprobably fair to say that businessrates are the most despised of allcommercial taxes by today’s smallbusiness owner in the UK,” says theForum’s chief executive Phil Orford.“It’s a crippling tax that businessowners simply have no choice but topay and, for many who claim to seeno discernible benefit to havingpaid up, it clearly sticks in theircraw.” A quarter of business ownersalso felt the tax system had becomemore complex, while 26 per centsaid that the system was lessefficient under the government.—TOD’S APPOINTS CREATIVEDIRECTORItalian brand Tod’s has announcedthe appointment of AlessandraFacchinetti as the creative directorof its womenswear collections,commencing March 2013.The first collection underFacchinetti’s leadership will bepresented at Milan Fashion Week in September 2013. In 2000,Facchinetti joined the Gucci groupas design director of its women’sready-to-wear collection beforejoining Maison Valentino in 2008.—REPUBLIC SAVED BY SPORTSDIRECT Sports Direct has acquired fashionretailer Republic, saving 2,100 jobsand keeping 114 stores open. Thesports giant, founded by NewcastleUnited owner Mike Ashley, boughtthe company for an undisclosedsum, and the deal comes two weeksafter the fashion retailer enteredadministration. Sports Direct alsoacquired stock, the brand’s SoulCal,Fabric and Crafted labels, as well asthe Republic head office in Leeds.—

SCOOP INTERNATIONAL EXPANDSWITH ADDITIONAL VENUE

The fifth edition of boutique trade show ScoopInternational, which took place on 10-12February at London’s Saatchi Gallery, attractedrecord visitor numbers, with footfall up by 26 per cent on its February 2012 edition.

The event also showcased an extra 20 per cent inexhibitor numbers, with over 250 UK andinternational premium, directional andcontemporary labels across womenswear,footwear, accessories and jewellery having takenpart in the event.

Due to the high demand of interest fromexhibitors to show at Scoop International, thesixth edition will be expanded further with theaddition of the Phillips Gallery in HowickPlace, which is in close proximity to the SaatchiGallery. The move will enable the show to almostdouble its exhibitors to over 400 handpickeddesigner collections. A complimentary carservice between the two venues will be runningthroughout the three days. The next edition ofScoop will be held on 21-23 July. —

HARVEY NICHOLS HOSTS MORERETAIL CONCESSIONS

Luxury department store Harvey Nichols hasadded two new concessions to its portfolio withthe launch of retail spaces by US label HalstonHeritage and Italian brand Amen, which bothopened last month.

Halston’s custom designed 450 sq ft spacereflects the new direction of the brand andshowcases a large selection of its ready-to-wearand evening collections. The concession is thefirst own retail unit in Europe for the label.

Simultaneously, Amen also opened itsfirst concession at Harvey Nichols, taking up aspace of 350 sq ft and located on the second floorof the department store. The bespoke area sells aselection of exclusive items from Amen’swomen’s ready-to-wear and couture line. —

Halston Heritage

Amen


NEWS—

UK RETAIL SALES GROW ATFASTEST RATE IN YEARSFebruary saw like-for-like retailsales increase by 2.7 per cent on theprevious year – the fastest salesgrowth in years – the British RetailConsortium (BRC) reveals. This isthe fastest rate of like-for-like salessince December 2009, with thegrowth allowing retailers space tobreathe after it was thought thecountry could potentially hit atriple-dip recession. “After thedisappointing figures that brought2012 to a close, it’s reassuring thatthe sales momentum establishedduring an encouraging Januaryhas built, not faded,” says HelenDickinson, director general, BRC.“There are certainly welcome signsof gradual improvement andcustomers feeling more positive.” —VERO MODA TRANSFORMS ITSVERY BRANDVero Moda’s more upmarket brandVery has been relaunched as YASfor a/w 13. The change comes as thelabel is looking to achieve a strongerand clearer brand positioning, withplans to extend the range furtherwith upgraded fabrics and morefashion-forward designs. YAS willfeature eight collections per year,with additional express collectionsalso available. —JOHN LEWIS INVESTS £32M IN REFURBDepartment store retailer JohnLewis is investing £32m into anextensive refurbishmentprogramme across four of its stores.The flagship store on Oxford Street,along with High Wycombe,Kingston and Nottingham, willbenefit from the fund later thisyear. A further £25m has beenplanned for other smallerinvestments across the chain’s 39stores before 2014. The biggestinvestment will be on the retailer’sHigh Wycombe property with a£16m redevelopment fund in place.The plans include converting its35,000 sq ft office space into aselling area and the introduction of a full fashion, nursery andchildrenswear offer. —

TOWN CENTRES UNDER THREAT ASINDIES SHOW NEGATIVE GROWTH

For the first time since the second half of 2010,more independent shops closed during the secondhalf of 2012 than opened, putting town centresacross the UK under renewed threat.

The latest report by The Local Data Company onthe openings and closures of all retail and leisureoutlets in the top 500 town centres shows that7,743 independents closed in comparison to 7,704who opened a new store, a decline of 0.03 per cent.

While independents continue the trendof opening three times more stores (15,932) thanchain stores (5,558), the marginal decreaseindicates a worrying development and is thefirst decline since positive growth throughout2011 and the first half of 2012, with high streetvacancy rates expected to rise furtherthroughout 2013. The net change (openings lessclosures) for the full year was only just positive,with independent-occupied units having grownby 594 stores versus an increase of 2,564 in 2011.

Key areas of decline are clothing stores,newsagents, recruitment agencies, florists,bookshops and Chinese restaurants, whilegrowth came from charity shops, bakers, health,beauty and nail salons, hairdressers, tattooingand piercing outlets as well as delicatessens.Overall, independents account for 69 per cent ofall retail and leisure units in Great Britain. —

ONLINE STORE FOR EMERGINGDESIGNERS LAUNCHES

A new online retail platform hosting emergingdesigners and smaller niche labels launched inthe UK last month.

The site, www.uniquinu.com, brings together acollective of up-and-coming independentwomenswear and accessories designers fromacross the globe who have been selected for theircreativity, but also for their accessible pricepoints, with jewellery pieces starting at £9 retailand clothing at £29.

In addition, the site will also function asan interactive space, where visitors can discussstyling tips, trends and suggest new designers.Users are also invited to create their own avatarand style it with all of their favourite piecesfrom the site, to be followed and rated by others.Furthermore, users are offered ongoingshopping rewards, including five per cent crediton future purchases and two per cent cashbackfrom purchases made by friends who haveenrolled into the community.

Uniquinu was founded in Spain and islaunching with a total of 17 brands includingMentirosa, Sick Watona and Gaats. —

ONLINE FASHION MARKETPLACETHE COUNTER LAUNCHES

A curated online marketplace for high-endfashion boutiques is launching this month,offering indies a platform to showcase and selltheir products via the site, www.the-counter.com.

The website is initially launching with 20women’s and menswear independents on boardwith a view of recruiting up to 80 boutiques.

According to founder MatthewBlanchard, The Counter will offer an expandedfashion audience than individual boutiqueswould have access to themselves. The Counterwill look after product photography, marketingand e-commerce system integration, whileproduct fulfillment and postage is carried out bythe boutiques themselves. —

FANTASY FASHIONPROVES A HITCOURTNEY BLADES, THIRDYEAR BA FASHION STUDENT ATTHE UNIVERSITY OF DERBY,REACHED THE FINALS OF THEUK’S LARGEST STUDENT-RUNCHARITY EVENT, THE STANDREWS CHARITY FASHIONSHOW, PRESENTING HERDESIGNS AT THE PRESTIGIOUSSCOTTISH UNIVERSITY. HERFANTASY FAIRY-TALE DRESSWAS AMONG THE DESIGNS OFFIVE OTHER FINALISTS FROMACROSS THE UK WHO TOOKPART IN THE SHOW, WHICHHAS RAISED MORE THAN£300,000 IN ITS 21-YEARHISTORY. —

Two global union federations put adifferent slant on London FashionWeek’s proceedings, challengingevent sponsor and logistics giantDeutsche Post DHL over allegedabuse of employees’ rights. Twomodels dressed in high-fashionclothes crafted from packingmaterials paraded outside the main entrance of Somerset House to raise awareness for their cause.The ITF (International TransportWorkers’ Federation) and UNIGlobal Union, the organisers of the initiative, fight for workers’rights worldwide. —

Accessories brand Jack French hosted a Valentine’s spectacle atLondon’s St Pancras International. The designer, Jack French,welcomed fashion press and celebrity friends including KateMoss, Beverly Knight, Meg Matthews and Jo Wood, whowitnessed the unveiling of the label’s limited-edition StPancras clutch bag at the Meeting Place Statue (picturedabove) in the station. A pop-up store, located a few metresaway at the Grand Terrace, was also launched, selling thebrand’s collection for a month.—


PEOPLE—

BACKSTAGEThe other side of womenswear

—

Wolf & Badger recentlyheld its third annualgraduate design awardsto find the best newcomerin fashion, jewellery andaccessories. The winners,including womensweardesigner KatieDarlington, will be ableto sell their collections in-store for a period ofthree months.

WORKERSRIGHTS TAKECENTRE STAGEAT LFW

“

“

Valentine’sspectacular

SPOTLIGHT—

Luxury fabric supplierHainsworth textile mill is

waving goodbye to its longeststanding employee, DennisAllman, who is retiring after a whopping 63 years

in service.— MP VISITS JACKSON

DISTRIBUTIONPoole fashion business Jackson Distributionrecently welcomed local MP Robert Syms andElaine Atkinson, leader of the local council,to its 30,000 sq ft headquarters in the Dorsettown. The politicians had a tour of thepremises, as well as an insight into the

company’s two labels, Braekeburn and IronFist, proving their commitment to local

business. “I congratulate Jackson Distributionand other Poole businesses that create qualityjobs and take opportunities to invest andexpand their brands globally at the same

time as keeping their HQ in Poole,” says Syms. —

Owner Nick Jackson with MP Robert Syms


OPINION—

SURVIVAL OF THEFITTEST IS ALSO TRUEIN RETAIL

THE BUSINESS RATESCHANGE THAT BENEFITSLOCAL ECONOMIES

Feva has been going for 10 years, with the last one by far the mostchallenging. And it all seemed so easy back in 2003. “In the struggle forsurvival, the fittest win out at the expense of their rivals because theysucceed in adapting themselves best to their environment,” Darwinfamously said. With this in mind, after 10 years in the business, I looked forthe 10 things I was now going to try to do better or differently.

1. Better buying deals. Why should I be the only one to lose margin? Iwant more support from agents and manufacturers: discounts, freestock, promotional support and better credit terms, I don’t care which.

2. Less emphasis on seasonality. A changing climate and customers fleeingour rubbish weather makes a nonsense of the traditional s/s and a/wsplit. Some suppliers have addressed it with three, even four, drops, butnot enough. And we now offer “out of season stock” all year round.

3. Sharper marketing. More digital, more social media and better use ofour database to target our marketing.

4. Slicker online shop. Obviously, we can’t be an Asos or a My-Wardrobe,but we can match 60-70 per cent of their functionality for anacceptable cost, plus we have our very different brands.

5. Make excellent staff even better. We pride ourselves on our staff, andthis was the highest scoring area in a customer survey we ran last year.But, this year, I’m going to invest in staff sales and product training.

6. Listen more to our customers. Our customer survey told us manythings we knew and didn’t, so we are making changes and introducingnew services in response, including in-store styling packages.

7. Engage more with them. We get customers involved, showing thempictures of new ranges and letting them add their own pieces. We’ve evenhad them along when agents visit. It has a fantastic effect on loyalty.

8. Make it more social. We take customers to the races, have restaurantnights and run style evenings in the shop every two months or so. Thisreally pays off and we are going to do more of it.

9. Stop being a slave to sales. I loathe sales and the pressure the high streetputs on us to follow their lead. I’m going to take a brave pill this year andpaddle my own canoe: less discounted product in fewer, shorter sales.

10. Outstanding customer service. This is our best trump card against thehigh street. We’re going to keep searching out what adds up to deliverthe service that characterises us independents and it will continue to bethe most important factor in our survival and prosperity.

Time will tell where we figure on Darwin’s fitness scale! —

Jan Clift, owner, Feva, Cheltenham Alexandra Boardman, owner, Alexandra’s of Keswick

TALKING POINTKey industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear

—

As the owner of an indie in the market town of Keswick, I am well awareof the negative impact that the large chains have on the local economy.

Rather than sit back, I decided to write to my MP and Vince Cable (asSecretary of State for Business, Innovation and Skills and President ofthe Board of Trade) about a proposal to change business rates so that thegovernment receives the same amount of money overall but theproportion paid depends on the number of retail units you own. Myproposal is simple: the more retail units you have, the higher yourbusiness rates multiplier, so the larger multiples will be “subsidising”the smaller independent businesses.

Vibrant town centres attract the multiples, which in turn pushup rents and business rates, distort the mix of shops in the area andnever contribute back to the local area, or worse still, close the shop andleave an empty unit. I do not propose to change how the business rates’money is spent, or collected, just the amount paid by a business beingdependent on whether it is their first unit or their 101st, so that thebusiness rates collected overall remains the same, but in a way thatfavours local economies rather than benefits the few.

The more units you have, the higher the rates – this way, thegovernment will collect the same annual amount and the “big boys” payproportionately more. For example, I have one shop, so in my proposalI’d pay 0.25 of my rateable value (compared to my existing 0.46). If Iopened a second shop, I’d pay 0.30. Should I open a third, I’d pay 0.4, andso on. After all, you wouldn’t open additional shops unless the first wassuccessful. There should be an increasing scale so that by the time youhave 50 retail units your multiplier is 1.0 and could increase further (I amnot a statistician so appreciate the Treasury would need to do the numbercrunching). Sadly, the small business rates relief does not seem to havekept pace with rising rateable values, especially since the UK’s businessrates are three times higher than those of our European counterparts.

I had never written to an MP before and so posted my letterenthusiastically at the start of the year, but have only received aformulaic response from Vince Cable’s office, and I haven’t receivedanything from my MP. The only response I have had is from theFederation of Small Businesses, who thanked me for my suggestionand said their local government policy is looking into ideas for positivechanges to the present system. Let’s hope someone somewhere downthe line will spring into action, for the benefit of us all. —


INTERVIEW—

Q&A

The founder and designer of the eponymous label tells Isabella Griffiths whatmakes her tick and the secret to the global success of her quirky designs.

—

Chie Mihara


INTERVIEW—

Isabella Griffiths: What inspired you tobecome a footwear designer? Chie Mihara: I was always interested in design. I did fashion design in Japan and later footweardesign in New York. What led me to shoes waswhen I was doing sculpture in New York and Imissed fashion. Like most designers, I alwayswanted to have my own label and was justworking and preparing myself for the rightmoment. When I was living in New York I metone of the owners of Charles Jourdan, whosuggested I go to Elda in Spain. And that’s whatdid it! I met my husband there, who wasworking for one of the factories that weremaking for Charles Jourdana nd i now live andproduce my shoes there. My husband’s familyare old-school shoemakers, so the decision tolaunch my label was a natural step for the bothof us. And the rest, as they say, is history.

IG: How would you describe the DNA ofChie Mihara? CH: I think it boils down to comfort and design.You don’t have to suffer to be beautiful. I workedin an orthopaedic shoe store in New York andlearned the importance of a good shoe. Not onlyquality wise, like using genuine leather, but alsorespecting the anatomy of the foot. A gooddesign feeds the soul and makes us happier. Boththings have to go together.

IG: The collection seems very inspired byvintage influences. Is this a reflection ofyour personal style, or where does thissignature stem from?CH: My personal style is more masculine andclean - I don’t wear any flower ornament shoesnor a Mary Jane. But, when I design, I like tohave no boundaries and don’t look at any type ofwoman that could limit me. I have fun creatingmy own world. But I guess when it comes to atypical style in terms of the label, the short andround toes and a vintage look do describe thedirection. I am inspired by many things,especially certain decades in history such as the30s, 40s, 60s and 80s.

IG: What are your plans for the range? CM: We have to get through this year in the bestway possible. We are under no illusion that 2013will be any easier than the previous couple ofyears, but at the same time, we have to stayoptimistic and proactive. For instance, we workclosely with customers and respond fast to theirneeds – if a style isn’t performing well, we try toreplace it immediately with other styles. We arein the same boat, so we try to collaborate asmuch as we can to help sales.

IG: You run the business from Elda inSpain, where your head office and factoriesare located. How would you describe yourcompany ethics?CM: A good factory is as important as any otherarea of this business. I know I’m privileged tohave one. Almost 100 per cent of the productionis conducted in my own factories. Being based inthe same town makes it easier and faster tocontrol quality and solve any problem quite fast.My team and I are like a family. On the door ofeach section there is a sign saying “Put quality inyour work, it’s your future!” They respect andenjoy making shoes for us.

IG: What can we expect from your a/w 13collection? CM: This season, my inspiration was taken fromthe 30s and 40s; the times of social andeconomical difficulties. But the beauty of innerstrength and appreciation of simple thingsmade a more fulfilling life. It’s all about lasting,timeless shapes, featuring small platforms andrubber soles with welting to look tougher andalso for comfort. Heels include block heels andare all well-built and sturdy, while styles includelace-ups, Mary Janes, high-vamped moccasins,many with big bows or flower ornaments. I’vekept the colour scheme to grape, dark greensand deep navy, but have incorporated brightcolours such as turquoise, orange and mossgreen. There are also leather options, from snakeembossed through plain calf to suede, napa andmetallic leather. In each collection, there arearound 130-150 styles, so there is plenty to choosefrom once again.

IG: You have been running the label for justover 10 years – what have been themilestones? CM: Each season is a milestone. Keeping thecreative hunger inside is a big challenge. When Ifirst started, I thought my product could reach60,000 pairs a year, but I was wrong, we are nowup to around 160,000 pairs a year.

IG: You have a strong global distribution –what is the sales situation in the UK? CM: We have an excellent distribution in theUK; we are in major department stores such asSelfridges, Liberty and Harvey Nichols, as wellas many prestigious boutiques around thecountry including Collen & Clare, Spice Shoes,Bernards of Esher and Boudoir Femme. Britishwomen understand my quirky, colourful andromantic style. But, of course, we still want togrow, which is why we are exhibiting at shows,such as Scoop International last month, whichwas really successful for us and such a beautifulenvironment.

IG: Who is the customer you design for?CM: I don’t have any type of person in mind.But I can say of my customers that they are trueto themselves. They are searchers and not at allfashion victims. When they find happiness inmy shoes, they write me beautiful letters orshare the pictures of their shoes. It’s a greatexchange. Saying that, I would love to see thelikes of Audrey Tautou, Juliette Binoche andIsabella Rossellini wear my shoes – they are suchinspiring and strong women.

IG: Has the economic climate affected yoursales or growth in any way? CM: Price matters and the economic situation isaffecting all of us. But a designer has to keepdreaming and not look at numbers. And I’mvery disciplined in that way. A lot of brands havetaken away quality to find better price, and alsotaken away fun and creativity from the design tomake an easier sale, but that’s taking away theintegrity of the brand, too.

“A LOT OF BRANDS HAVETAKEN AWAY QUALITY TO FIND BETTER PRICE,AND ALSO TAKEN AWAYFUN AND CREATIVITYFROM THE DESIGN TOMAKE AN EASIER SALE, BUT THAT'S TAKING AWAYTHE INTEGRITY OF THE BRAND, TOO”

INFORMATION– Chie Mihara was born in Brazil to Japaneseparents

– She studied fashion in Japan and accessoriesdesign at F.I.T. in New York

– The label was launched 12 years ago by Mihara and her husband, who owns a shoecomponent factory

– The brand is now widely distributed across allmajor markets

– Mihara defines her creations as naïve, nostalgic,feminine but at the same time strong and urban

– The label is stocked in some of the best globaldepartment stores as well as independents, withstockists in the UK including Collen & Clare, SpiceShoes, Bernards of Esher and Boudoir Femme

—Skin care for leatherSkin care for leatherSkin care for leatherWhen Jovanka Novkovic Davies’ favourite Bottega Veneta bagWhen Jovanka Novkovic Davies’ favourite Bottega Veneta bagWhen Jovanka Novkovic Davies’ favourite Bottega Veneta bagwas almost ruined by an Italian outpour, it inspired the ideawas almost ruined by an Italian outpour, it inspired the ideawas almost ruined by an Italian outpour, it inspired the ideawas almost ruined by an Italian outpour, it inspired the ideabehind Leather Love – a luxury care and cleaning range forbehind Leather Love – a luxury care and cleaning range forbehind Leather Love – a luxury care and cleaning range forbehind Leather Love – a luxury care and cleaning range forhandbags, shoes or leather accessories. The brand is ahandbags, shoes or leather accessories. The brand is ahandbags, shoes or leather accessories. The brand is acollaboration between Davies, her brand designer husbandcollaboration between Davies, her brand designer husbandcollaboration between Davies, her brand designer husbandMichael and entrepreneur Shariffa Nisa Rashid, and has beenMichael and entrepreneur Shariffa Nisa Rashid, and has beenMichael and entrepreneur Shariffa Nisa Rashid, and has beentaking the market by storm. taking the market by storm. taking the market by storm. —

In its second season inthe UK, Missco Girl is afun and trend-inspiredhandbag label, offeringfashion arm candy andholdalls. Colour-blocksatchels, textured totes and clutches are amongthe key pieces for s/s 13.—


FASHION—

UK label Moloh iscelebrating its 10thanniversary thisyear, but remainstrue to itsdistinctly Britishroots. Its 45-piecebirthday collectionfeatures intricatedesigns producedfrom pure wool,silk, velvet, suedeand leather.—

STYLE FILEThis month’s product news

—

�

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

New contemporary Brit label Oshun haslaunched for s/s 13, with exclusive

styles going into Anthropologie in May,before the label’s roll-out to more

boutiques across the country. Vibrantprints and clean shapes characterise thelabel, which retails between £50 and£450. The brand is currently taking

orders on its a/w 13 range. —

STYLE FLASH—

Manchester brand PrettyDisturbia has opened its newboutique in the city’s AffleckPalace, where the label’s fullrange of clothing and

accessories will be available. —

STYLE FLASH—

British heritage lingerie brandLucile has seen an unexpectedrise in sales after it wasmentioned in ITV series

Mr Selfridge. —

�

SISTER ACTAlmari is the sister label ofsuccessful womenswear brand

Closet, but since its launch in April2012 has been making its own nameon the fashion scene. The Londonbrand, which is also produced in thecapital, has a signature look of

structured workwear that translateseasily into evening, with prettyfrocks with a nod to catwalk

trends key. —

�

BIRD OF PREYPrey of London is the brainchild ofdesigner Donovan Pascal and

marketing creative Hannah Man,who have years of experience at labelsReligion and Idol under their belt.The brand’s signature style payshomage to the decadent late-nightLondon girl, with heaps of vintage

rock attitude. —

01 Part Two, £74.95, 020 8875 580102 Twist & Tango, £14,

07930 53970003 Ronen Chen, £52,

020 7402 529204 Bernshaw, £99, 020 7612 010005 Esamis, £49, 07891 797656

06 Bourne, £62.50, 01482 33459007 Olsen, £56.78, 020 7290 089008 Not The Same, price on request,

0031 61139629509 Oui, £44.07, 0049 893548115010 Ali Ro, £165, 020 7633 9888

Spring’s most talked about shade gets the once over from WWB as we select our 10 best pieces available now fromshort order. —

STOCK UPDATE—


THE 10 BESTCOBALCOBALCOB T ALT AL BLUE

030201

SPOTLIGHT—

Cobalt blue was a popularshade on the catwalks thisseason, alongside emerald.Pair together in-store foran instant bolt of colour orlayer over summer whitesfor the perfect holiday

dressing.—

06 10

04 05

SPOTLIGHT—

Softly tailored trousers,smart blazers and

form-fitting dresses are theideal settings for cobalt thisseason, taking the wearerfrom day to evening

with ease.—

0907 08

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

General Enquiries 01392 876390 Customer Service 0800 294 3373 |General Enquiries 01392 876390 Customer Service 0800 294 3373

JosephRibkoff.com

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21WOmenSWear buyer—marcH 2013

In SeaSOn—

MAKE A STATEMENTOn the s/s 13 catwalks, big name designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, Versaceand Gucci ensured the trend for large statement jewellery will be around forsome time to come. Follow in their footsteps with WWB’s selection of on-trend

and in-season styles. —

01

02

03

04

-01- Ruby Rocks Accessories, £3, 07973 718301 -02- Orelia, £8, 01273 434779 -03- Daisy London, retail price £125, 020 3214 3175-04- Rodgers & Rodgers, £150, 01246 555 228 -05- Dannijo, retail price £280, 0016 467558909

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale For more in-season trends check out our online galleries at wwb-online.co.uk

SPOTLIGHT —

Making the perfect day-to-evening statement, cut-out filigree earrings arehigh up on our radar this

spring, particularly in gold,bronze and warm

rose-gold.—

SPOTLIGHT —

Look to discs and tassels toaccentuate longer lengths thisseason, while more delicatedesigns rely on semi-precious

gemstones. —

05


faSHIOn—

FASHION RADARacquaverde

French denim label Acquaverde was first established in thelate 80s, revived in late 2010 by designer Judith Roche, and isnow crossing the Channel to make its mark in the UK for 2013.

Combining her expertise in denim fabrics with aneye for design, Roche develops pieces for Acquaverde that areboth functional yet stylish, with the end goal being an easy,mix-and-match wardrobe.

Buyers coming to Acquaverde with fresh eyes canexpect to find all the hallmarks of a good denim brand: arange of styles from skinny through to flared, providing amultitude of options for different body shapes, each withhidden design details waiting to be discovered. Drawinginspiration from travel, architecture and vintage styles, keylooks this season include the Scarlett slim-fit 7/8 style,followed closely by the longer version, Alice, and Evans, ahigh-waisted look with four zippers.

For a/w 13 and beyond, Roche is developing a morecomplete line, from knitwear to leather garments. Wholesaleprices range from ¤40 to ¤150.—

French label Acquaverde arrives in the UK thissummer, hoping to secure a cult following amongdenim devotees.

Established:First established at the end of the 80s and revived in 2010.

Signature style: Acquaverde recognises that jeans are an essential wardrobefoundation for most women and as a result delivers on-trend,well-made designs.

Born in Vietnam before moving to East Germany, Thu Thufounder and designer Thuy Duong Nguyen takes inspirationfrom Vietnamese textiles to create a new urban aesthetic, onethat explores rural, handcrafted fabrics alongsidecontemporary cuts.

Each season, Nguyen works on developing newsignature prints exclusive to her collections, and the s/s 13 lineis no different, taking particular inspiration from Germanpainter Gerhard Richter, who uses items such as spatulas andchopsticks to make patterns: abstract and otherwise. Thoughlooking to current artists for inspiration, Thu Thu’s brandsignature is maintained with the use of traditionalembroidered patchwork fabric from Sapa, Vietnam. Producedusing natural dyes to create intricate geometric embroideries,this key fabric sits alongside silks, cotton and suede leather.

Familiar shapes also remain for the season, such asever-popular biker and bomber jackets, alongside gilets,blouses and statement dresses. Wholesale prices range from£76 to £270.—

Taking inspiration from contemporary art, Thu Thuhas all the credentials to become the next big thing onthe fashion scene.

Established:2010

Signature style: The recurring use of embroidered patchwork fabric fromSapa, Vietnam, sets the Thu Thu brand apart from itscontemporaries.

THu THu


PrOfILe—

hen Ugg boots first burst onto the fashion scene, itwasn’t just cynics who thought they would never bemore than a fad. Fast forward to 2013, and sheepskinboots are not only still going strong, but have become

an indispensable wardrobe staple for most women. One of the first brands to capitalise on the growing trend was

Love From Australia (LFA), which carved its niche at the premium end ofthe market with luxury versions and quirky design details that made itstand out from the rest of branded and unbranded styles that soon floodedthe market. This year, LFA is proudly celebrating its 10th anniversary,something founder and former business consultant Tara Knapp –whosays she was just “in the right place at the right time” when the consumerlove affair with sheepskin boots started – can hardly believe herself. “Atthe time, I had just finished a three-year contract in Luxemburg and washeading home to the UK for a career break, expecting my second baby,”she says. “After around a week, I was bored at home and started lookingfor something I could do to keep myself busy.

“The original concept was an import and wholesale company forAustralian labels,” Knapp continues. “It was the time of Sass & Bide, Tsubi,Karma and Antipodium, and the ‘Ugg’ pot was just starting to simmer. “Igot a box sent over to review the styles and showed them to a good friendwho owns a small chain of independent designer stores. She tried to buythe box off me on the spot. That was the first clue that we were ontosomething good.”

Although it was September already, Knapp managed to secureorders with 10 prestigious boutiques and Kurt Geiger, which consequentlyopened the doors to Harrods, Selfridges and Liberty that winter. Accountsin some of the best indies ensued, and at the peak of the sheepskin boom,LFA was stocked in 250 doors in the UK alone. Although today the markethas stabilised, as Knapp concedes, the brand still serves around 150accounts – a healthy figure for what is essentially a small indie label.“Many of these stockists have been with us for all of our 10 years, and that’san achievement in itself,” she says.

Connoisseurs and fans of sheepskin boots can tell an LFA style frommiles away, so distinct has its signature become. “We feminised the sheepskinboot,” says Knapp. “We made the foot slimmer and the cut more shapely.And we added coloured ribbons, swishing tassels, luxe faux fur trims andlurex knitted cuffs, glittering crystal buttons and shiny metal studs andzips – our LFA twist. And our customers can choose from the classic flat or,for extra height, our lightweight wedge, too.”

It’s no surprise that such design detail has attracted a lot of copycats,but unlike some other big brands in this field, Knapp has a refreshinglyrelaxed attitude to counterfeiting. “I’m known for my nonchalance aboutcopying,” she says. “I just think, isn’t it the highest form of flattery? Therewill always be a market for cheaper versions of designer products; that isthe nature of the beast and, with a phenomenon as big as this, it is prettyinevitable there will be a host of copiers.

“Mostly, they are synthetic sheepskin, cheaply made and with a

When Ugg boots first burst onto the fashion scene, itWhen Ugg boots first burst onto the fashion scene, itwasn’t just cynics who thought they would never beWwasn’t just cynics who thought they would never bemore than a fad. Fast forward to 2013, and sheepskinWmore than a fad. Fast forward to 2013, and sheepskinboots are not only still going strong, but have becomeWboots are not only still going strong, but have become

LOVELOVESTORYSTORYLove From Australia is celebrating its 10th anniversary thisLove From Australia is celebrating its 10th anniversary thisyear, paying testament to the huge and lasting success ofyear, paying testament to the huge and lasting success ofsheepskin boots. However, the brand is far from a one-tricksheepskin boots. However, the brand is far from a one-trickpony, and for a/w 13 is diversifying its range significantlypony, and for a/w 13 is diversifying its range significantlywhile staying true to its sheepskin roots. Isabella Griffithswhile staying true to its sheepskin roots. Isabella Griffithsquizzed founder Tara Knapp about the brand’s quirky DNA quizzed founder Tara Knapp about the brand’s quirky DNA and the key milestones so far.—


colours on a selection of basic styles. “We are 10 this year,” says Knapp. “Tencolours on a selection of basic styles. “We are 10 this year,” says Knapp. “Tencolours on a selection of basic styles. “We are 10 this year,” says Knapp. “Tenyears of sheepskin boots, so we wanted to explore new product ranges andwiden the appeal to more customers. I don’t think sheepskin boots will goaway, but the reality is they are a staple now and not a super-hot trend.Adding ballet pumps and heeled boots is about diversifying and offeringour customers a broader product range and encouraging them to wearLFA in other circumstances, too.”

Knapp’s sheer endless energy is infectious, and nothing short ofinspirational considering she is not only in the driving seat of her ownlabel, but also a mother of five. And while she says her children keep herhappy and grounded, she clearly thrives on the label, too, which she runstogether with her two sisters, Emma and Kate. “We are a family brand, runby three sisters,” says Knapp. “I’m the eldest, but by no means the wisest orprettiest! We have some great women in the crew – everyone else involvedwith the brand is female apart from the accountant. We make boots forwomen from women and I think that shows in our styles. We enticewomen to fall in love with our brand and we work hard to keep them.”

Did she ever think LFA would get this far? “Not for a second –many brands have gone bust or sensibly moved on to something else,”Knapp admits and adds jokingly, “We are neither planning to go bust orlikely to do anything as sensible as move on – unless anyone readingwould like to write a large cheque?”

PrOfILe—

“I’m known for my nonchalance about copying. I just“I’m known for my nonchalance about copying. I just“I’m known for my nonchalance about copying. I justthink, isn’t it the highest form of flattery? We justmove on and create something new. Catch up with move on and create something new. Catch up with move on and create something new. Catch up with us if you can, I say”

price point to reflect it,” Knapp continues. “More annoying are the other‘designer’ brands that copy LFA styles – hardly designer unless you designsomething? But, even then, it ensures we keep moving on and workharder to be ahead of the game. No lawsuits for us. Battles breed negativeenergy. We just move on and create something new. Catch up with us ifyou can, I say,” she laughs.

Knapp may be laid-back about the competition, but she’s by nomeans complacent, and it’s not just the obvious fellow sheepskin brandsthat vie for the same slice of the retail cake, but other, less apparent ones,too. “All the sheepskin brands are competitors – Ugg, Emu, Celtic,Australia Luxe and Mou, to name just a few players,” says Knapp. “Thetough economic climate has weeded out all but the fittest, and thesurvivors are great in their own way and have distinctive signatures.

“There is room for choice, and I believe competition is bothpositive and necessary to keep us on our toes and the collections fresh andoriginal,” she continues. “But we also compete for budget with other, non-sheepskin boot brands such as Ash, who are stocked by many of ourretailers. We take this seriously, because they make it painless for retailersto add one or two sheepskin lined boots to their order without having towork separately with a more traditional sheepskin boot brand like us.”

True to her ethos of constantly evolving, a/w 13 sees LFA diversifyits offer significantly with the introduction of a range of sheepskin-linedballet pumps and elegant heeled boots, plus a customisable capsule range,MyLFA, offering customers the possibility to choose their own trims and

Tara Knapp


mOda fOOTWear—

SOLESISTERS

Your essential edit of theautumn/winter 2013 trends

direct from February’s edition of Moda Footwear.

—

Photographs: Kevin Peschke www.kevinpeschke.com Styling: Natalie Dawson

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

YEE HA!Cowboy boots were one of the hottest trends spotted at Moda Footwear this season, with Cowboy boots were one of the hottest trends spotted at Moda Footwear this season, with a number of big name brands putting their own spin on a classic design. Lookingparticularly strong for a/w 13 were distressed leather and suede styles with added detailssuch as fringing, floral embroidery, snakeskin panels and studs and sequins.

01

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040506

01 durango, £82.50, 01740 753 9100 02 maria mare, €20.90, 07870 175149 03 mJuS, £55, 07935 648070 04 Sixtyseven, €41, 07870 17514905 bronx, £41.70, 0114 281 511106 mTnG, €23.90, 07870 175149

06 05

BOW SELECTOR Ladylike bows adorn this season’s pumps, with pointed toe courts providing the perfectfinishing touch to smart, tailored trends, looking polished and professional andelongating the leg as they go. Many brands chose to stay true to a traditionally winterypalette for a/w 13, while red and rust tones will provide a welcome lift for autumn.

01 Glamour n Glitz Shoes, £11.95, 01282 773891 02 fiona mcGuiness, £32.79, 07919 02354703 unze London, £9.99, 0333 1238693 04 Sachelle couture, £50, 01536 310447 05 ravel, £22, 01706 212512 06 Peter Kaiser Schuhfabrik, £47.20, 0049 63317160

01 04

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TWINKLE TOESBallet flats received an update for a/w 13 in high-shine metallics and patent leatherswith contrast toe-cap detail. Teal, nude and gold tones, along with classic black andwhite combinations, all made an appearance this season, while spikes, studs and bowswere the on-trend details not to be missed.

01 butterfly Twists, £10, 0845 094 027802 Phildon, £10, 020 8309 888003 Grendha, £11.50, 01992 76961204 Lydc, price on request, 0161 839 9271 05 dolcis, £9.99, 01706 21251206 moda in Pelle, £25.95, 0113 200 7360

01 04

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RIDING HIGHRIDING HIGHThe traditional riding boot silhouette is more popular than ever, and this season buyersThe traditional riding boot silhouette is more popular than ever, and this season buyersat Moda were inundated with a choice of glossy leathers in classic tan and black tones.at Moda were inundated with a choice of glossy leathers in classic tan and black tones.Meanwhile, the addition of forest green, navy and purple shades kept the boot trendlooking fresh. Gold hardware and quilting are the high-fashion touches that transformthe humble boot into a bestseller.

01

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040506

01 vitti Love, £52, 07778 59550802 vanilla moon, £57.95, 01536 310447 03 fiona mcGuiness, £48.90, 07919 02354704 ravel, £48, 01706 21251205 Wonders, €82, 01455 20322206 Posh Wellies, £28, 01706 212512


FASHION—

FEET FIRSTWWB takes a look at the latest news and footwearcollections to watch for a/w 13. —

KAT MACONIEHaving launched her own label in 2009,footwear designer Kat Maconie has made aname for her design-led shoes that fusefashion and function. The brand drawsinspiration from trims found everywherefrom British antique shops to vintagemarkets, with each pair including the KatMaconie signature gold screw feature andluxury padded insoles.—

COCOROSECocorose specialises inluxury ballet pumps, withbuttermilk nude,burgundy and noirforming the basis of asophisticated colour palettethis season. New for a/w 13is the introduction of itspointed and on-trendloafer styles, as well as thedebut of the brand’sdiffusion range,incorporating a petite heel.The label’s signaturefoldable ballet pumpscontinue to be at theforefront of the designdevelopment, with itsluxury heritage rangecontinued from last season. —

THIERRY RABOTIN Thierry Rabotin once again combines comfort with designand style, putting strong emphasis not only on the aesthetics,but also the craftsmanship of the range. The flexibleconstruction classic styles are dominated by rounded shapes,elastic inserts and rubber soles that are thick and lightweight.Ballerinas sit alongside classic wedges, while ankle boots also feature. —

MIZ MOOZNew York label MizMooz is proof thatfashion and comfortcan co-exist. Its designsare always edgy, playfuland quirky, while alsocomfortable and well-crafted. Key stylesfor a/w 13 includefunky boots, balletpumps and Mary Janes,with an autumnalcolour palette that iswarm and versatile. —

>>>


FASHION—

THE JACKSONSThis season at The Jacksons, bootsare at the forefront and come invarious designs, all featuring softsuede and supple leathers, includingstyles for everyday wear with crepesoles, distressed metallic leather orfunky fur lined short styles.Highlights also include on-trendslipper shoes, which are updated incolourful muted sequins. —

GARDINERS Highlights at Gardiners includewedge boots in suede, made in threecolourways including black, taupeand red. The style also featuresIndian-inspired patterns on the leg,incorporating key trends into themix. Wholesale prices start at £16,with no minimum orders. —

LISA KAYIn line with this season’s trends, thecolour palette at Lisa Kay is deepand rich, with burnt orange,mustard, purple and bordeauxamong the key shades. Italian calfleather, soft suedes and metallicnappas form the basis of thecollection, which features knee-highboots, ankle boots, shoe boots andmid-heel shoes, alongside eveningstyles, moccasins and pumps. —

SOL SANAAustralian label Sol Sana is launching to theUK for a/w 13, incorporating elements ofhigh fashion in a variety of casual styles.Though the brand has a luxe feel, prices areaffordable, promising to bring a high-endlook to a broader market, with genuineleather products offered at entry to mid pricepoints. The collection includes flats, wedges,heels and boots. —

J SHOESJ Shoes’ a/w 13collection takesinspiration fromcountry living and the“good life”. Key looks inthe women’s range aretherefore based onurban rural chic, withboots a particular focus.Leather soles and a richautumnal colourpalette add depth and a feeling of luxury.Wholesale prices start at £38. —

SANITAEstablished for more than 100 years,Danish clog brand Sanita hasmanaged to invent itself over andover again, adding endless guisesand versions of the classic clog to itsmix season after season. Traditionalclogs sit alongside boots, with aparticular focus on uppers, whichrange from oiled nubucks throughprinted cow leather to lambskin,with rivets, buckles and seamsadding cool details. —


FASHION—

SARAH FORSYTH LONDON London-based designer Sarah Forsyth’s trademark is stylish handbags inthe finest leather and exotic skins including python, cobra, lizard, watersnake and stingray, with many of the bags coming in bright and metalliccolours or with feather finishes. Styles available for a/w 13 range fromclutch bags with gold chains, through to evening and larger day bags,wallets and purses alongside iPad covers and sleeves, and exotic skin belts.

ORLY GENGER BY JACLYN MAYERSince its inception, Orly Genger By Jaclyn Mayer has caught the eye offashion insiders, and most recently collaborated with J.Crew to produce amass-marketed line. For a/w 13, a rich palette of purple, yellow, red andgold is adopted across signature rope necklaces and bracelets, alongsidenew chain pendants and mixed-material cuffs.

BOBELLE LONDON BoBelle London’s handbags are made in Somerset, using the finest Italianleathers, premium hardware and Swiss zips. Designs feature chic detailingincluding the signature BoBelle clasp and “bow” handle detail in bothclassic and fashion colours. New for 2013 is the Berkeley (pictured) withlong strap, the Cadogan and Fitzrovia shoulder bags, the Rose glitter boxclutch and the roomy Rivington tote in dove grey, black and mushroom.

ACCESSORIES

ALEXIA Dark forests, fairies, unicorns, birds, cobwebs and beetles provide designinspiration for scarf brand Alexia this season, with prints in moody tonesof dark brown, grey, khaki and pale pink, alongside pops of neon. Giantcollars and supersized snoods take centre stage and are decorated withwoollen tassels, looped chains, ostrich feathers, crystals, sequins, studs,zippers and faux fur.

BULAGGIThe Bulaggi a/w 13 collection of handbags and accessories has beendivided into three themes –Drama, History and Shadow. Featuringmetallic tones alongside sapphire, mauve, spruce green, oxblood andamethyst, styles are embellished with fake fur, chains and trendy studs.Also, big news for the season are high-gloss finishes and python andsnakeskin imitation fabrics across day-to-evening fashion-forward styles.

ZOE & MORGANJewellery label Zoe & Morgan combines art and history with fashion andfun for designs that range from bold and striking to delicate and feminine.The a/w 13 collection, Free and Foxy, features these signature designsalong with brand new twists, highlights of which include drop earringsand sculptural rings and bracelets with added gemstones.

WWB takes a look ahead to the accessories brands making waves for a/w 13 withinnovative designs and on-trend product.—

Sarah Forsyth London

Alexia Bulaggi Zoe & Morgan

Orly Genger By Jaclyn Mayer Bobelle London


FASHION—

ROUND-UP

EMMA CHAPMANHaving recently launched in the US, and with new stockists includingWhistles, Emma Chapman continues its winning formula for a/w 13 with exotic statement jewellery in gold and silver. As ever, carving,engraving and Jali work are hallmarks of the brand, and are translated intoshapes of flowers, leaves, trees and birds embedded with gemstones.Highlights include chandelier earrings and statement cuffs.

BJØRGReflecting on the perpetual change of nature, the 2013 Odyssey collectionfrom Bjørg features vibrant opals growing from dark metals, woodenshapes, melted liquid shapes and psychedelic colours, leading to a playfuland surrealistic feel. In addition, Bjørg will also present its classic range,which has its foundation in silver, diamonds and precious stones.

OLIVIA BURTONTrue to the Olivia Burton ethos, the 2013 collection is inspired by vintagecatwalk trends and nature, and there is an introduction of exciting newstrap colours to its bestselling colour crush and big dial collection, whichinclude red, yellow, sparkly black, metallic brown and electric blue. Motifssuch as hummingbirds, bees and butterflies remain this season, reflectingthe brand’s British heritage.

OWEN BARRYOwen Barry offers a palette of over 80 on-trend and classic colours inleathers, suede and cowhides with trimmings sourced and commissionedfrom environmentally friendly resources. This season, key pieces includethe Dudley slouch bag in zebra print, the Otto shoulder bag in cappuccinocowhide and bestseller Puppies in new shade, orange glaze (pictured).

ROSEMARY GOODENOUGH Luxury brand Rosemary Goodenough was spotted at trade show Scoop byfashion forecasting agency Trendstop, which took Mad Red Flowers V90cm classic square silk twill scarf and Mad Red Flowers V 45cm squarepocketchief to display in its Trend Lounge at Magic International FashionShow in Las Vegas. The label was chosen by Trendstop as a perfect exampleof a luxury English brand bang on trend for a/w 13/14.

LIEBESKIND Liebeskind launched into the UK this season with key accounts inAnthropologie, Question Air and The Dressing Room to name a few. For a/w 13 the Liebeskind vintage styles feature distressed, waxy nubuckleathers, studded soft leathers and the brand’s new snake range, whereleather is treated to replicate snake skin and then sprayed with contrastingcolours to create a directional look.

Owen Barry Rosemary Goodenough Liebeskind

Emma Chapman Bjørg Olivia Burton

40WOmenSWear buyer wwb-online.co.uk—marcH 2013

PrOmOTIOn—

neWS Industry news that is relevant toyou, from new launches to tradingpredictions and business reports. —reTaILWant to explore multi-channellingin order to drive sales, learn moreabout the latest market research or gain inspiration for visualmerchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable. —brandSUseful profiles of familiarfavourites and up-and-comingbrands alike, along with broaderfeatures on their evolution, strategyand direction. —OPInIOnRead what the experts think aboutcurrent and ongoing issuesaffecting the industry – theirinsights could prove invaluable to your business. —feaTureSReports, interviews and brandprofiles on the issues, industryfigures and companies everyonewants to know about. —TrendSShort-order stock, ranging from fashion and footwear toinspirational add-on product. —evenTSAs well as previews and reviews,wwb-online.co.uk will keep youinformed about the essential datesfor your diary. —bLOGWWB’s bloggers are passionateabout the fashion industry andalways have something interestingto say. Find out what’s getting them talking.

Wwb-online.co.uk is the essential free business tool, bringing you industry advice, up-to-the-minute news, insightful features and trend information at the click of a button.

From the team behind WWB magazine, the website covers every aspect of thewomenswear industry. Frequently updated newsacross a broad range of topics will help you keepyour finger on the pulse, while a variety ofunique content that complements WWB’scomprehensive industry and style reports bringsyou rounded, in-depth knowledge andinformation. Brand spotlights, short-orderspecials and trend overviews are just some of the must-read features, all of which will aidyour buying decisions and help enhance yourin-store offer.

The Retail section provides further vitalinspiration, covering everything from visualmerchandising ideas to advice and suggestionsfrom the brains behind some of the UK’s mostsuccessful independents. Articles in the Peoplesection focus on the movers and shakers acrosswomenswear to give you the inside track onwhat makes them tick and how they stay ahead of the game. —

maKe WWb-OnLIne.cO.uKyOur daILy SOurce OfeSSenTIaL faSHIOnInduSTry InfOrmaTIOn – IT’S OnLy a cLIcK aWay.

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WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

42WomensWear buyer—march 2013

revieW—

by ti moBy Ti Mo provided a much welcomedose of bling with this gold sequintunic, which proved to be among thebestsellers for a/w 13.—

becksÖndergaard“It” brand Becksöndergaard has hada spectacular 12 months andcontinues to be one of the mostsought-after accessories labels. Itsscarves and handbags offered aquirky mix of print and colour. —

candice cooperThe German brand oozes someserious cool when it comes tosneakers, whether it’s glamsequinned versions or this sheepskin-lined style, which addedperfect urban chic. —

christel und sinnThe brand is increasingly buildinga loyal following in the UK, and itsstructured and well-constructedpieces are elegant and versatile.This sparkly textured coat wasamong the highlights of this season’s range. —

des petits hauts The label made its Scoop debut andimpressed with versatile knits thatwere both on-trend and timeless,with a colour scheme of peaches andpastels particularly appealing. —

coccinelle The brand once again offered a fineselection of handbags, includingtotes, clutches and holdalls, withclassic and timeless shapesfeaturing heavily, but updated bynew colour schemes and detailing. —

eileen fisherUS label Eileen Fisher’s relaxedstyle was well received by buyers atScoop, with loose silhouettes with anemphasis on textures and highquality having formed the perfectbase for chic layering. —

filippa k Filippa K stayed true to itssignature of elegant and minimalistshapes and colour schemes. Amongthe highlights was this camel coatwith a slant on the cocoon shape.—

With a record number of exhibitors and visitors, scoopinternational reaffirmed its position as the most innovative anddirectional trade shoW on the calendar. WWb sums up some of themany hero pieces and key brands that stood out. —

SCOOPINTERNATIONAL


revieW—

house of harloWThe brand is going from strength tostrength in the UK and this season’sjewellery offering impressed onceagain with full impact statementpieces such as these necklaces key. —

hoss intropiaTextures were a key focus at HossIntropia this season, with a play ondifferent materials, but alsofinishes such as cut-outs andintarsias among the key features.This sleeved dress was the perfectglam all-rounder.—

hunky doryWe fell in love with Hunky Dory’stake on this season’s massive fauxfur trend, with this jacket tickingall the right boxes in terms of colourand glam factor. —

John & pearlStatement jewellery was alsoprovided by John & Pearl, whoseneon, gold and stud necklaces reallystood out and delivered a welcomecolour splash. —

m.WiesneckDanish brand M.Wiesneck is only inits second season, but has alreadyimpressed with its typicalScandinavian cool. This leatherand wool coat was a perfectexample of the brand’s skilled playwith materials, shapes and textures.—

liu JoLiu Jo struck a perfect balancebetween elegant chic and urbancasual, with many styles lendingthemselves to be dressed up or down.Knitwear was particularly strong,as was this on-trend bouclé jacket. —

mark’sJapanese stationery brand Mark’sis now a regular at Scoop andcontinues to provide quirky andfantastically original add-ons forany boutique, with innovativenotebooks, masking tape and lots ofother charming knick-knacks key. —

morah morah Impeccably crafted leather pumps,boots and ballerinas caught ourattention at Morah Morah. Luxefinishes and attention to detail werekey, with this pair of ballerinasamong our favourites. —

odd mollyContinuing with its bohemiantouch, Odd Molly once againprovided a colourful range, withembroidered tops and tunics, as wellas this cute take on checks, key.—

niinXL cuffs and bracelets could befound over at ethical jewellerybrand Niin, whose unusual mix ofmaterials and stones – often withhealing power – impressed.—

rosemary goodenoughStocked by the likes of Pollyannaand Wolf & Badger, the brand isgoing from strength to strength. Anexpanded selection of unique printsand colours was on offer this season. —

unreal furAs the name suggests, Unreal Furspecialises in faux fur and madequite a splash at Scoop with itsstylish gilets and jackets in a rangeof colours and finishes. —


REVIEW—

BERRY SHADESBerry tones made acomeback for a/w 13 andranged from darkergrapes and blueberry towarmer raspberry shades,creating a flattering andversatile colour palette.

Mado et les Autres

Apanage Coster Copenhagen Pomodoro

Anna Scott

TANGERINEA fruity taste of tangerinewas the surprise shade ofthe season, having beenutilised by many brandsacross outwear andknitwear styles. Warm andvibrant, tangerine lookedgreat contrasted againstneutral black or layeredwith bright prints.

Kali Orea

Hauber Pomodoro Steilmann

Creenstone

BOUCLÉ JACKETS Boxy bouclé jackets wereamong the key pieces ofa/w 13 and could be foundacross most collections,either as elegant andformal styles, or as morerelaxed versions.Detailing such as chaintrims, interesting buttonsor coloured threadsadded a quirky twist.

Apanage Bianca Pause Café

Bianca Steilmann

WWB sums up the key trends thatdominated last month’s edition of Moda Woman. —

BESTOFMODA


revieW—

leather Always a key staple formany collections, leatherjackets once againfeatured across manybrands, with takes on theever-popular biker styleaplenty. Leather trims andaccents, however, werealso around and offered atrendy play on textures.

mustardA splash of colour came in the form of mustardshades, which were usednot only on knitwearstyles, but also offered a new vibrancy onouterwear or tops and blouses.

bianca fran & Jane naya latte

biancahauber hauber James lakeland

pause café

petrolPetrol dominatedcollections for a/w 12 andmade a welcome returnthis season, offeringanother colour alternativeto greys and blacks.

latte

marble masai pause cafe

kali orea

culture

faux furFaux fur jackets came tothe fore this season, andthe bigger, fluffier andmore cocooning, thebetter. Animal looksfeatured heavily, whilegilets offered a stylishalternative toconventional jackets and coats.

marble fran & Jane pomodoro

latte apanage

doma

Argentinean labelDoma presented its luxerange of leather jackets,with stand-out piecesincluding a green bikerstyle with gold zipdetail and quilted arms.Meanwhile, Westernthemes were in fullswing with distresseddip dyes in earthy tones,cowboy fringing,plenty of studs and starmotifs. Thoughpremium, styles aredesigned to be wearable,with arms that zip offto turn into a gilet justone handy feature. —


revieW—

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEKWWB brings you a handpicked selection of brands, as spotted at trade shows Gallery, Vision and

CIFF, during Copenhagen Fashion Week’s a/w 13 edition last month.—

baum und pferdgarten

The brand stayed true to itssignature colour of midnight bluefor a/w 13, working in darkburgundy, forest green, dusty rose,light pink, petrol and electric bluealong the way. Mixing andsampling Asian references withEuropean references from the 60sresulted in some great shapes,alongside more straightforwardsports and army themes. —

gudrun & gudrun

For the new collection, MarrakeshUnannounced, inspiration camefrom travelling around villages inMarrakesh, and new shapes appearin a host of both neutral and brightred and yellow colourcombinations. As ever, the majorpart of the collection is handmadeby Faroese and Jordanian womenusing 100 per cent untreated andun-dyed Faroese wool. —

rosemunde

The a/w 13 collection is a reflectionof yesteryear, capturing classicRosemunde pieces and adding anew dimension. Silhouettes werefeminine and chic, with relaxedtailoring key. Colour-block androse-printed T-shirts and drawstringsilk trousers in a floral pattern wereamong the popular additions to awell-rounded range of basics suchas vest tops and slip dresses. —

carin Wester

Swedish designer Carin Westerlooks to strong masculine shapesand a focus on sharp shoulders thisseason with a silhouette based onan oversized and layeredcolourplay. Melton wool coats,pleated flannel skirts, wide flannelshorts, angora sweaters and sharppencil skirts all set the tone in hues of camel, navy, ice blue anddusty pink. —

mayla stockholm

Founded in 2010 bySwedish graphicdesigner MarleneAbraham, MaylaStockholm compriseselegant, feminine and,above all, wearablepieces. This season, thebrand takes inspirationfrom the world ofAlfred Hitchcock,offering acontemporary take onsome of his favouritemuses – Americanactresses Tippi Hedren,Grace Kelly and KimNovak. The mood isdark and edgy withquirky bird prints anddifferent texturesincluding a mix of silkjacquard knits, metallicbouclé, lace and sheer silk pleats. —


revieW—

ganni

Ganni’s autumncollection was inspiredby Virginia Woolf’sunconventional artisticlife. Her love ofdressing in herhusband’s clothes hasbeen translated intostylish suits, shirts andsharply tailoredtrousers, while herpoetry was mirrored inthe collection’s prettydresses and lace pieces.Meanwhile, the printsof the season rangedfrom dark flowers andrefined leopard to thinstripes and polka dotsover graphic 60sminimalism. —

peter Jensen

As ever, prints are key for designerPeter Jensen this season. A smallrepeat jewel print was noted as apredicted bestseller, alongside aterrace house print in brown and ajacquard in navy and royal purple.Alongside the classic knits, basictunic dress shapes complementedthe selection of tailored trousers. —

my mynt

Designer Signe Sand has createdMy Mynt’s a/w 13 line based onyoung Scandinavian women’sneeds for a versatile winterwardrobe, from comfy knits tolittle black party dresses. Sharp,clean lines are softened with draped feminine shapes, whilecolours and prints are expressedthrough winter forest shades andanimal patterns. —

maska

Premium knitwear label Maskawas founded in 2009 from a love ofyarn and the craft of knitting. Thea/w 13 collection, inspired by harsh Nordic landscapes andandrogyny, is more minimalist andmasculine than previous ranges, ina cool colour palette. —

nümph

Young fashion label Nümphshowcased its collection, entitledBlack Rose, for a/w 13. Inspired bymenswear, the 60s, old vintagebrocade and pop culture, the rangewas a mix of strong prints andtexture. Stand-out pieces proved tobe knits, shirting and outerwear. Inaddition, the brand launched itsnew jeans range, focusing on print,details and fabric.—

stine goya

For a/w 13, the Danishdesigner has found herinspiration in Frenchdirector George Méilés’1902 film, A Trip to theMoon, and earlyscience-fictionreferences were easy tospot as a result. Therewere big sequinsthroughout – someshaped like the moonand stars – while moreliteral prints featuredon basic T-shirts. Zip details were areoccurring theme onuniform-style jacketsand coats, paired withslinky jersey pieces andslim pants in asignature palette ofblack, gold, pale greyand sugary pink. —

Ganni.dk For sales inquiries, please contact [email protected]


revieW—

RODEBJERSwedish label Rodebjer presented an a/w 13

collection inspired by the designer’s childhood inthe harsh environment of Gotland Island withkey themes of organic structures and fairy tales.Silhouettes across suits, sets and dresses were looseand layered, while chunky knits, as well as

garments in sheepskin, were particular highlights.—

CALLAThe French label was inspired by NASA spaceimagery and iconic 80s video games for the newseason. Key pieces included printed denim in slim

and boyfriend cut options and sequin logosweatshirts. New for a/w 13 is a collaborationwith knitwear designer Michaela Buerger.

—

MR START WOMANThe first womenswear line from the Shoreditchlabel promises elegance with a nod towards themasculine. Architectural shapes were seen acrossseparates, including shirts, jumpers and blazersthat had a slim-fit, boyfriend silhouette. Keypieces included a grey herringbone overcoat andthis navy overcoat with subtle metallic flecks.

—

BLAKE LDNThe latest collection was inspired by vintage skiimages and modernised by using panelling andracing stripes in angora and cashmere. Clashinghues of gold and bright neon were framed withdeep navy and army greens across new styles ofbomber jackets, oversized boyfriend sweaters and

chunky ribbed polo necks.—

EACH X OTHEREach X Other believes clothes should not be

focused on men or women and proposes a unisexwardrobe with a classic masculine direction. Inline with the “boyfriend” look, this season’s

collection included easy to layer items includingprint sweaters and T-shirts alongside statement

pieces such as leather biker jackets. —

BEAUTIFUL SOULThis season’s line featured bouquets of

hydrangeas as the signature print. The flowerheads were placed on a delicate lilac, peach or abolder black background, with ladybirds hiddenon the petals. The range included a selection ofday-to-evening dresses, playsuits and separatesoffering both classic and contemporary silhouettes.

—

WWB’s Natalie Dawson took to the cobbles of Somerset House to discover what The Exhibition at London Fashion Week had to offer for a/w 13.

—

THE EXHIBITION AT LFW


revieW—

Walk like a man

The Daks a/w 13 line was inspired byCharlotte Rampling’s sophisticatedand androgynous style while alsocelebrating the art of the pattern cutterthrough plays on traditional proportionsand through folding, layering anddraping. Designers Richard Nicoll andAntonio Berardi followed suit (punintended) with contemporary twists onsartorial classics in muted tones ofFrench navy and steel grey. Paul Smithpunctuated an autumnal palette withbright pops of fuchsia, cobalt, teal and rust, while designer Alexis Mabillesent models down the runway in double-breasted jacket dresses, wide-lapel overcoats and men’s shirts.The typically feminine Felder Felderalso got on board the trend, showing asuit in velvet inspired by the 70s. —

colour me oxblood

Oxblood, the most popular colour ofa/w 12, was back for another showingthis season. Among its fans weredesigners Jean Paul Gaultier, EugeneLin, design duo Felder Felder, MariaGrachvogel and Christopher Kane, thelatter of which splashed the colouracross rich velvets, short, flirty dressesembellished with feathers and patentleather booties to great effect. Alsochampioning oxblood for the secondseason was Burberry Prorsum, whichlooked to the 60s for inspiration whenreinventing brand classics such astrench coats and column dresses inglossy cashmere, calfskin andlaminated python print leather. Tofinish, both Costume National andBCBG Max Azria used oxbloodsparingly as a highlight colour to theirmainly monochrome colour palettes. —

FRONTROW SEAT

antonio berardi felder felder daks alexis mabille richard nicoll paul smith

maria grachvogel bcbg max azria burberry prorsum christopher kane costume national Jean paul gaultier


revieW—

WWB takes a look at the key trends to emergefrom the a/w 13 catwalks in New York, London,Milan and Paris.—

heating up

Fur was once again big news on thea/w 13 catwalks, with a number of Britdesigners trying their hand with thetrend for the first time. ChristopherKane tipped his camouflage prints andwool jackets with golden fox, while J.W. Anderson created sleeveless furtunics and House of Holland added pom-pom-like marabou embellishmentto grey marl jumpers. Bora Aksu wasinspired by vaudeville theatre act theDolly Sisters, whose appetite forwealth was played out through therichness of fabric, including Turkishleather, shearling pelts, woolembroideries and laminated laces.Across the pond, Givenchy added furjackets to its gypsy themed range andThakoon translated goatskin fursacross structured cocoon shapes in apalette of blues, lavender and mauves.—

a stitch in time

Moving on from the digital printsshowcased in summer to somethingwith a more handmade feel, a/w 13decorations were embroidered orembellished, and all the richer as a result.At PPQ, this translated to organzalayering and satin patchworks on cocktaildresses and body-con eveningwear.Over at Holly Fulton, sequined feathers,jewel-encrusted tops and leather jacketsembroidered with ivory lilies stood outalongside a patchwork red jacket andskirt. Also on trend were Manish Arora’ssequin embroideries, beads and chains,while Henry Holland added crystalembellishments. Eudon Choi’s firstforay into knitwear saw embroideredSwarovski crystals in mint and rose,and Christopher Kane finished with aT-shirt featuring an MRI brain scan anddresses fabricated from fine black wires.—

christopher kane givenchy house of holland bora aksu J.W. anderson thakoon

eudon choi house of holland ppQ holly fulton christopher kane manish arora

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Value for money is the name of the fashion gamein the current economic conditions. We have hadthe most challenging few years I’ve known sinceopening my first shop in 1987. We’ve had toughtimes before, but they have lasted only 12-18

months, not more than four years.

We are in an affluent area of Cheshire, but evenour customers are more price-conscious thanthey were five years ago. They still spend, butthey want to be sure of the perceived value ofwhat they are buying. They want quality,versatility, longevity and a sensible price that isnot a gazillion miles from the high street prices.We have moved to lifestyle collections and that iswhy something like Sandwich has become –excuse the pun! – a bread-and-butter range for us.

We have had to become better atmanaging our business. We know “informationis king” since installing our first Epos system atthe end of last summer. We had a “beautyparade” of suppliers and finally went with ModeRetail – partly because, at around £4,000, itsprice was great. We are a one-shop business; weweren’t interested in an over-engineered systemat £9,000-£11,000. Our sales analysis is muchbetter; we know what sells and what doesn’t,and we have a better idea of what lines make usmoney. Having the Epos system has also allowedus to set up a loyalty points scheme. For eachtransaction, the customer gets a five per centcash reward to use against subsequent purchases.Most customers let something build up onaccount. It is helpful when someone is lookingat a £199 blouse from Elisa Cavaletti to remindthem that they have, say, £35 sitting in theirloyalty account.

Of course, we have been forced toconstantly look at our own costs. As members ofFAB, we benefit from the amazing plastic cardtransaction rates. We get offered deals on thisalmost every week, but no one has come close towhat FAB offers. We are seeing more cash thanpreviously, but most of our sales are still on cards.

Having done my buying for autumn2013, I’m feeling optimistic. If you are notoptimistic in the fashion retail business, it’s timeto give up and do something else.

Jeanette Ellis owns Pickwicks in Nantwich, Cheshire.(www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk)


forum—

Concept store LN-CC has unveiledtwo new areas as part of itsspring/summer 2013 store evolutionin its East London location.

The shop, which operates on an appointment-only basis,has installed the Secular Space, which has been dedicatedto showcasing footwear and leather goods brands,featuring luxury designers such as Balenciaga, Lanvin andGivenchy alongside more niche labels such as MyriamSchaffer. The room’s octagonal form mirrors the store’smain tunnel architecture, though it is constructed fromcrisp floor-to-ceiling neoprene that lends a clean andunderstated feel. The overall offer has been furtherenhanced by Chameleon, an exclusive in-store bar andsound space, which will host a range of events.—

LN-CC REVEALSNEW-LOOKSHOP

retail diaryThe latest news from the industry—

RETAILFORUM

have you opened a neW store, launched a transactional Website, organisedan event or have any other in-store neWs? then let us knoW by getting in touch at [email protected].

littleJohn supportsbritish designers

Littlejohn recently opened its doorsin Stratford-upon-Avon with afocus on purely British fashion andgifts. The store supports Britishdesigners and manufacturers byexclusively stocking products fromthe British Isles. “Many of themajor high street chains havelaunched British collections,established clothing manufacturersare once again expanding, and newfashion companies are starting upall over the UK. We intend to growwith this trend and build newbusiness relationships with moresuccessful designers across thecountry that are backing Britain,”says store owner Maria Petitjean.—

maria petitjean


forum—

chic freak celebrates Withlaunch event

Portobello Road boutique Chic Freak opened its doorslate last year and celebrated with a launch event atthe end of January.

The West London store stocks a variety of labelsincluding Wildfox, Tatty Devine, Hudson Jeans and Betty B, alongside handmade clothing andaccessories from designers and artists. The store also houses its own brand label designed by ownerTamarisk East-Rigby. “We are aiming to stockinteresting, beautiful items for all budgets, so theinexpensive pieces have to be well-designed, quirkyor funny to hold their own next to the top-enddesigner pieces,” says East-Rigby. —

MAC & POSH KICKS OFF S/S 13 IN STYLEMac & Posh, based in Perth, Scotland, revealed its new s/s 13 collections at a launchevent last month.

VIP customers were invited to the store tobrowse and shop the new ranges while enjoyinga glass of champagne. New-season stockincluded pieces from Sugarhill Boutique, Kling,Motel Rocks, Miss Real and London Rebel, andcustomers received 10 per cent off new lines.“We received a great reaction towards ourcollections and we look forward to a successfulseason,” says co-owner Sarah MacDonald. —

the dressing room6-8 high streetst albans, herts al3 4el

owner: Deryane Taddstore opened: 2005brands carried: 2nd Day, American Vintage, Twist & Tango, Hudson Jeans, Maison Scotch andWorn By

“The Dressing Room in St Albans houses anedited selection of brands in a friendly andprofessional environment. Owner Deryane Taddwas one of the first to put down an order on ourdebut range of watches, seeing the potential ofthe brand, which is testament to her incredibleeye and ability to introduce newness. The staffare friendly and trained to offer style advice.Constantly moving with the times, embracingnew labels and providing an exceptionalcustomer experience, whether in-store or online,The Dressing Room is up there with the best.” —

lauren fergusonOwner, SistersBoutique, Falkirk

—exclusivity is not alwaysessential. some of ourmost popular brandshave grown hugely sincewe first exclusivelystocked them. theirsuccess has meantdepartment stores haveadded them, too, but i donot think it has a negativeaffect on trade – itreinforces the idea thatwe find great brands first.—

clare serJeantOwner, Fox & Feather,

Bristol

—the success of my storerelies on brandexclusivity. the localcustomer only makes upthree per cent of thecustomer database, so bycarrying exclusive brandsi am able to attractclients from all over theworld. this is the reasonfor nomad, our in-houselabel, being successfulbecause it can only befound at pollyanna.—

rita brittonOwner, Pollyanna,

Barnsley

—my aim is to bring mycustomers a fresh, newlook each season withunique designers and abespoke service, givingwomen an outfit that willfeel exclusive to them. ifeel it is important tocreate a shoppingexperience where mycustomers feel able tobrowse, unwind and spoilthemselves.—

Jenny grayOwner, Violet andRose, Skipton

We ask four retailers this month’shot question

HOW IMPORTANT IS BRAND

EXCLUSIVITY TO YOU?

—exclusivity is the numberone factor i considerwhen starting with a newbrand. i only work withlabels that are exclusiveto me in falkirk.—

MY FAVOURITESHOP...the dressing roomby Jemma fennings,director of olivia burtonwatches

© Christopher Sedgewick

Photography


directory—

garment labels

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t-shirts

Arctic Fox • Hats • GlovesScarves • Sunglasses • Ski Goggles

Tel: 01923 210646Fax: 01923 210647

Email: [email protected]

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hat boxes

Wanted

to advertise please call mina or Jasprit on

01484 846069

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manneQuins

rails


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hangers


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[email protected]


directory—

Acquaverde 0845 094 4012 www.acquaverde.com Alexia 07956 585627www.alexiafashion.co.uk Ali Ro 020 7633 9888 www.ali-ro.com Anna Scott0031 20503666 www.annascott.co.uk Apanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.deBaum und Pferdgarten 07861 785763 www.baumundpferdgarten.dkBeautiful Soul London 020 8616 0316 www.beautiful-soul.co.ukBecksöndergaard 0045 35837083 www.becksondergaard.com Bernshaw 0207612 0100 www.bernshaw.com Bianca 020 7580 0085 www.bianca.de BjørgJewellery 07783 118365 www.bjorgjewellery.com Blake LDN 07849 199563www.blake-london.com BoBelle London 020 7759 1055www.bobellelondon.com Bourne 01482 334590 www.bournecollection.comBronx 0114 281 5111 www.bronxshoes.com Bulaggi 0031 (0)356212757www.bulaggi.com Butterfly Twists 0845 094 0278 www.butterflytwists.comBy Ti Mo 0047 40402769 www.bytimo.com Calla 0033 (0)153574220www.calla.fr Candice Cooper 0041 445330130 www.candicecooper.net CarinWester 0046 8347700 www.carinwester.com Christel und Sinn 020 7487 3070www.christelundsinn.de Coccinelle 020 7287 8119 www.coccinelle.com CosterCopenhagen 020 3432 6385 Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.comCulture 020 3432 6385 Daisy London 020 3214 3175 www.daisyjewellery.comDannijo 0016 467558909 www.dannijo.com Des Petits Hauts 0033 143575848www.despetitshauts.com Dolcis 01706 212512 Domawww.doma-leather.comDurango 01740 753 9100 www.durangoboot.com Each X Other 020 3227 4970www.each-other.com Eileen Fisher 0012 124664301 www.eileenfisher.comEmma Chapman 020 3302 9585 www.emmachapmanjewels.com Esamis07891 797656 www.esamis.com Filippa K 0046 86157096 www.filippa-k.comFiona McGuiness 07919 023547 www.fionamcguinness.com Ganni 020 74289455 www.ganni.dk Glamour n Glitz Shoes 01282 773891 www.glitzshoes.comGrendha 01992 769612 www.ghwarnerfootwear.com Gudrun & Gudrun0045 (0)29617077 www.gudrungudrun.com Hauber 020 7323 6100www.hauber-fashion.de Hoss Intropia 020 7287 1300 www.hossintropia.comHouse of Harlow 020 7349 8887 www.claretshowroom.com Hunky Dory0046 8678 0550 www.hunkydory.se James Lakeland 020 7636 7130www.jameslakeland.net John & Pearl 07740 150224 www.johnandpearl.co.ukKali Orea 0039 051752912 www.kaliorea.com Latte 0141 204 0699www.latteclothing.com Liebeskind 07971 10329 www.liebeskind-berlin.comLiu Jo 07889 649508 www.liujo.it LYDC 0161 839 9271 www.gessy.co.uk Madoet les Autres 0161 228 0573 Marble 029 2066 4661 www.marblefashions.co.ukMaria Mare 07870 175149 www.mtngexperience.com Masai 020 7385 9273www.masai.dk Mark’s 0033 142778763 www.marks-japan.eu Maska 0046(0)313133239 www.maskaknits.com Mayla Stockholm 0046 8244444www.mayla.se MJUS 07935 648070 www.mjus-shoes.com Moda in Pelle 0113200 7360 www.modainpelle.com Morah Morah 020 8123 5810www.morahmorah.com Mr Start Woman 020 7033 3951 www.start-london.com Mtng 07870 175149 www.mtngexperience.com M Wiesneck 07971103329 www.michalawiesneck.com My Mynt 0045 22331576 www.my-mynt.com Niin 0085 228788811 www.niinstyle.com Not The Same 0031611396295 www.notthesame.com Nümph 020 7485 8633 www.numph.dk OddMolly 0046 852228500 www.oddmolly.com Olivia Burton Watches 07734903452 www.oliviaburton.com Olsen 020 7290 0890 www.olsenfashion.comOrelia 01273 434779 www.orelia.co.uk Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer 0019175660817 www.jaclynmayer.com Oui 0049 8935481150 www.oui.com OwenBarry 01458 442858 www.owenbarry.com Pause Café 0161 238 8570www.essentialcollections.net Part Two 020 8875 5801 www.parttwo.com PeterJensen 020 7249 6894 www.peterjensen.co.uk Peter Kaiser Schuhfabrik 004963317160 www.peter-kaiser.de Phildon 020 8309 8880 www.phildon.co.ukPomodoro 020 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com Posh Wellies 01706212512 Ravel 01706 212512 www.ravel.co.uk Rodebjer 0046 (0)708925900www.rodebjer.com Rodgers & Rodgers 01246 555228www.rodgersandrodgers.com Ronen Chen 020 7402 5292www.ronenchen.uk.com Rosemary Goodenough 07880 540563www.rosemarygoodenough.co.uk Rosemunde 01625 460580www.rosemunde.com Ruby Rocks Accessories 07973 718301www.rubyrocks.co.uk Sachelle Couture 01536 310447 www.venutti.co.ukSarah Forsyth London 020 7352 3191www.safor.co.uk Sixty Seven 07870175149 www.mtngexperience.com Steilmann 020 7291 0522www.steilmann.com Stine Goya 07557 052442 www.stinegoya.com Thu Thu020 7729 6788 www.thu-thu.com Twist & Tango 07930 539700www.twisttango.com Unreal Fur 020 7349 8887 www.claretshowroom.comUnze London 0333 1238693 www.unze.co.uk Vanilla Moon 01536 310447www.venutti.co.uk Vitti Love 07778 595508 Wonders 01455 203222www.wonders.com Zoe & Morgan 020 7586 7419 www.zoeandmorgan.com

names and numbers

displays


01484 846069or email

[email protected]@ras-publishing.com

CalicoWell known & successful, high quality scarf/stole/shawl brand looking for experienced

agents to cover the following areas:Midlands, Scotland, East Anglia,

South East and London.

Contact: [email protected] Tel: 01708 455550

agents Wanted

footWear


up close and personal—

You have recently been promoted to CEO. What do you want to tacklein your new position? I have been part of By Malene Birger for some years, and my primary goalwill of course be to follow through and execute the focused internationalstrategy we have set for the company. We have ambitious goals for the future.

The brand is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. Will there becelebrations? Yes, we have decided to turn 2013 into a year of celebrations – it’s a welcomeoccasion to reflect on all the goals we have achieved but also an opportunityto set new ones. We kicked off the anniversary with a beautiful show of oura/w 13 collection at the Royal Danish Theater during Copenhagen FashionWeek, and there will certainly be more things to follow.

By Malene Birger is internationally a very respected label. What doyou attribute that to? It has been part of the vision and strategy from the beginning that ByMalene Birger should be an international design driven fashion house. Soeverything that runs through our hands is designed to have internationalappeal, from our collections to the marketing campaigns.

What are your plans for the next 12 months? The next 12 months will be about tightening the focus and setting the futurecourse of the company. One of the new, exciting ventures is that we havestarted collaborations in Japan with the highly regarded trading company,Yagi Tsusho, so I am very much looking forward to the next year and beyond. —

INSIDER:

Who is your style icon and why? Coco Chanel. She was a style icon aswell as a fantastic business woman. —Which fashion business do you admireand why? Karl Lagerfeld has always fascinatedme for his everlasting ability not tocompromise. —What’s the best piece of industryadvice you’ve been given?Set your goals and stick with it. Focusand work, do not compromise.—What is the one fashion item you can’tlive without?The item dress. I buy “the perfect”dress each season – the right dress canbe a life-saver and be dressed up ordown for any occasion. —

CHARLOTTE EGELUNDThe new CEO of By Malene Birger talks about the brand’s 10th anniversary and its huge international success.

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wwb magazine

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