WORKSHOP TECHNOLOGYBME 1023

PREPARED TO : • EN.MUKHTARPREPARED BY :• MUHAMMAD AMIR BIN MUDIN

(13B02012)• AMMAR IRSYAD JUFRI BIN JOHARI

(13B02003)• HASBULLOH BIN MOHD NOOR

(13B02005)• MUHAMMAD AMIR BIN AWANG JAAFAR

(13B02011)• NOR AJUAR BT ABDULLAH (13B02022)• NANI SHAJIEHA BT ZAWAWI (13B02021)• SITI ZULAIKHA BT MOHD ROSLI

(13B02024)

BASIC HAND TOOLS

BASIC HAND TOOLS

• A basic hand tool is any tool that is not a power tool – that is, one powered by hand (manual labour) rather than by an engine.

• Some examples of hand tools are hammers, spanners, pliers,screwdrivers and chisels.

• Hand tools are generally less dangerous than power tools.

Advantages of BASIC HAND TOOLS.

• Hand tools offer the advantage of precision. • Fine carving and detailed work such as cabinetry,

building of musical instruments and decorative work requires minute control over a tool that is sometimes easier with hand tools.

• Hand tools also always work. You require no power, fuel or air pressure and can utilize the tool at any time.

• The smaller and more compact nature of hand tools compared to power tools makes them easier and lighter to transport as well.

Disadvantages of BASIC HAND TOOLS.

• The primary disadvantage of hand tools is the time that it takes to complete simple tasks.

• Hammering shingles into a roof by hand, for instance, takes much more time than nailing down shingles with an air-nailer.

• Industrial woodworking companies could never meet demand with handsaws.

• Also, more skill is required to use hand tools than most power tools.

• Making a clean and straight cut using a handsaw is much more difficult than when using a tool like a table saw with guides and a high cutting speed

EXAMPLE OF BASIC HAND

TOOLS.

1.HAMMER• Hammers are often designed for a specific purpose, and vary in their shape and structure. • The term hammer is also used for some devices that are designed to deliver blows• The hammer is a basic tool of many professions. The usual features are a handle and a head, with most of the weight in the head.

WAY TO USE???

• Check the hammer before use• Get a firm grip on the handle. • Hold the hammer at the end of the handle.• Hit your surface squarely with the hammer.• Use your whole arm and elbow.• Place your work against a hard surface. • Work in a natural position. • Check before you swing.

2. NAIL SETTool used to drive nail heads below the surface.

WAY TO USE ??

• Grab a pair of ear plugs too because it’s loud. It’s important to get a nail set that has a dimple on the end. That way it won’t slip off the nail head so easily.

• Place the nail set over the nail.• Hammer until the nail is sunk and you have enough of

a depression in the wood to fill with wood filler• Sand down the wood that pushed out around the nail

set and then fill with wood filler, prime and paint. That spot should disappear.

3. CROSSCUT SAW

A saw with small teeth (more teeth per inch) for cutting across the grain of wood.

WAY TO USE??• Hold the wood down so it will not move. Mark the location where you will make the cut.• Extend the end to be cut about one foot past the end of the sawhorse.Make sure the cut

location is off the sawhorse.• Hold the saw in your dominant hand, using the other hand to hold the wood.Keep fingers

clear of the area to be cut.• Slowly draw the blade of the saw on the mark on the wood at a 45 degree angle.• Do this a couple of times until a groove is started in the wood.

Then slowly start to saw the wood, keeping the blade against the wood at all times. Do not let the blade come off the wood

• Be consistent with your strokes and use most of the length blade. It is not a knife, so do not try to use it as one.

• Let the saw do the work. As long as you see sawdust coming from the wood, it is being cut• When you get almost all the way through, continue sawing and try to avoid breaking the

wood.

4. STEEL FILEA steel hand tool with small sharp teeth used for sharpening or shaping.

Way to use??• Procure the workpiece, plan the operation, and layout lines indicating where material is to

be removed.• Select a file that is best for the job.• Clean the file.• Chalk/oil/lard the file.• Clamp the work in the vice. • Now, for the actual filing, we diverge (the following 3 steps are not to be taken in order -

you may indeed only do one of them:• For heavy cross filing, to remove material, grab the handle of the file with the dominant

hand and place the palm of the other hand on the end of the file. Orienting the file so that it points away from you, press down firmly (so that the file digs in and cuts the metal) and make long, slow strokes away from your body, removing downward pressure on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file.

• For light cross filing, to remove material with a small file (as for detail work), grab the handle of the file with the dominant hand and place the fingers of the other hand on the end of the file. Orienting the file so that it points away from you, press down firmly (so that the file digs in and cuts the metal) and make long, slow strokes away from your body, removing downward pressure on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file.

• For draw filing, to make a highly finished surface, grab each side of the file with your hands only somewhat further apart than your workpiece. Orienting the file so that it points to your side, press down firmly (so that the file digs in and cuts the metal) and make long, slow strokes away from your body, removing downward pressure on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file.

5. WOOD CHISEL

A woodworking tool for cutting, shaping, or smoothing wood.

Way to use??

• Use a paring chisel for fine light woodwork, such as shaving or sculpting.

• Secure the woodwork firmly on your workbench or in your vise.

• Position the the blade at a slight slant to the line of the wood.• Place one hand on the chisel's blade and press it against the

surface of the wood.• Drive the chisel with the other hand placed on the handle.• Raise or lower the chisel handle to control the depth of the

cut.• Repeat action and sharpen the blade as needed

6. SCREW DRIVER• Hand-tool for turning (driving) screws and sometimes bolts or other machine elements with a mating drive system.

Way to use??

• Create a pilot hole. Place the screw on the driver tip and hold both screw and tip together with the fingers of one hand.

• Start the screw. Place the screw on the driver tip and hold both screw and tip together with the fingers of one hand.

• Keep driving. When the screw’s thread engages with the wood, move your fingers that were holding the screw in place to the screwdriver shank

7. ARCHITECT RULER

A tool used to measure "to scale".

Way to use??• Determine the scale of your plans. It will be labeled on the plans and

should be found in the bottom corner.• Turn the ruler to the corresponding scale factor. For instance, if the

plans read ¼ inch equals one foot, you will use the ¼ inch scale on the ruler.

• Measure the desired line starting from zero on the correct scale. In this case, you would need to use the ¼ inch scale.

• The measurement you calculate equals how many feet the line actually is at full scale dimensions.

• Try it out several times until you get the hang of it. This will increase your understanding of the scale ruler so you can use it with ease.

8. CHALK LINE

A tool used in the building trades to make a straight line on a vertical surface.

Way to use??• Decide which color of chalk to use. Blue is for general purpose use. Red is for

more permanent jobs that need to last out in the weather for a few days. White is a good choice for interior walls since it comes off easily. There is also florescent chalk that is easier to see on certain surfaces.

• Fill the chalk reel with chalk. Open the side door on your chalk line. Pull out about 12 inches of your line and insert the tip of the chalk bottle into the side door. Fill about half full and close your side door.

• Pull out a large portion of the string and wind it back up 6 to 8 times to help coat the string before the first use.

• Place the hook at the end of your first mark, using a nail or hooking it to the end of a board. It is faster if another person can hold the end on the mark.

• Place the reel end on the string on the other mark.• Make sure the string is tight. Hold it up about 12 inches and let go. The string

should then snap back to the surface and make a chalk line between the two marks.

• Wind up your string when you have finished.

9. LEVEL

A tool with an indicator that establishes the horizontal or vertical, when a bubble is centered in a tube of liquid.

Way to use??• The surface to be levelled should be straight so the level will

not rock. Place the level in the centre of the job and adjust one end of the work so the bubble is between the lines. The bubble rises to the high end.

• When you think the work is level, turn the level around end to end. Place the level back on the work in the same position. Check the bubble again. If the level is accurate, the reading will be the same. If not, the level may require adjusting.

• For levelling over larger areas, place a straight edge (a piece of timber with both edges perfectly straight and parallel) along the work. Use the level in the centre of the straight edge. Over large distances, a string line and line level may be used.

• A more accurate method is the water level. This is a clear plastic tube filled with water and is often used for levelling around corners.

10. SPEED SQUAREA trianglular marking tool containing both 90 and 45 degree angles. It has a flange on one side so you can "square" it against the material.

Way to use??• Draw square lines. Use the speed square to mark lines on wood at exactly 90

degrees to the wood's edge. Hold the tool against the end of the board. The lipped edge on the speed square will help line it up. Use the side of the square to mark the needed lines on the wood. Use the square to locate and mark studs, positioning floor joists, and laying out stair stringers.

• Align pieces of wood at a right angle. When building cabinets, boxes, or other furniture pieces, hold the speed square against the wood to measure angles before cutting or attaching pieces of wood.

• Make a 45 degree line. Put the square firmly against the board and mark the location of the diagonal edge to create a 45 degree line. As an isosceles triangle, the square's diagonal edge is exactly at 45 degrees angle. Read and mark angles. Look for the pivot point at the corner of the speed square. Each line along the diagonal edge represents 1 degree, and they go from 0 to 90. Hold the pivot point against the board, and adjust the square until the degree gradation needed is aligned with the edge of the board. Use a pencil to draw a line along the square.

• Mark a parallel line. Press the square against the edge of the wood and place a pencil tip into the notch that measures the number of inches needed. Slide the square along the wood with the pencil in the notch. This will produce a straight line that runs parallel to the edge of the wood.

• Guide a portable circular saw. Position the square flatly on the board to be cut. Slide the saw shoe against the square, and cut. The saw will cut steadily and accurately because the speed square is thicker than a framing square or combination square.

11. COMBINATION SQUARE

A sliding square mounted on a steel rule, used to mark a "square" line, find level, or measure.

Way to use??

• Test for squareness.• Adjusting the square.• Retest for squareness.

12. HAND DRILL

A small portable drill held and operated by hand.

Way to use??• The hand drill is held vertically. • One hand holds the handle at the top whilst the second hand rotates

the other handle in a clockwise direction. This turns the chuck and drill bit.

• Only light pressure should be used to push down on the hand drill, if a lot of pressure is needed the drill bit is probably blunt (change it for a sharp drill bit).

• When using the hand drill for the first few times a second person can stand at the side to check that the hand drill is held vertically.

• As the drill bit turns through the wood, dust and chippings are brought up to the surface where they collect. This should be brushed away. Do not be tempted to blow it away as the dust usually ends up in the eyes which can be very painful.

13. BRACE AND BIT

A type of hand drill consisting of a bit and a brace to hold and turn it.

Way to use??• A brace or brace and bit is a hand tool used to drill holes, usually in

wood. Pressure is applied to the top and the tool is rotated withcgh a U-shaped grip.

• The U-shaped part is a kind of crankshaft. It gives the brace much greater torque than other kinds of hand drill; a brace can be used to drill much wider, and deeper, holes than can a gear-driven hand drill.

• The price of the greater torque is lower rotational speed; it is easy for a hand drill to achieve a rotational speed of several hundred revolutions per minute, but it requires considerable effort to achieve even 100 rpm with a brace. Due to the design of the brace it tends to be easier than a power drill to keep at a precise 90 degree angle.

• The front part of the brace consists of a chuck spindle with V-shaped brackets or clamps inside. Turning the spindle of the chuck in a clockwise direction tightens the drill bit in the chuck and turning in a counter-clockwise direction loosens the bit for removal.

14. SCRAPER

A tool used for removing material from a surface.

Way to use??• In use, the scraper is held at an angle of about 60° with the

surface of the work. If it is sharp and the edge properly turned it will cut like a plane. Inexperienced persons are often tempted to try to make the scraperdo the work of the plane. This is a mistake for if much material is removed the surface will become very uneven due to the fact that the scraper tends to cut more on the soft than on the hard spots.

• To counteract this tendency, the scraping should be done so that the strokes of the scraper will cross one another at an angle.

15. WOOD TURNING TOOLS

A set of tools used to cut wood on a wood lathe.

Way to use??

• The tool rest should be quite close to the wood. Before turning on the lathe, spin the wood by hand to ensure that it does not ‘catch’ on the tool rest.

16.VISE

Way to use??

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17. SLIDING T- BEVEL

An adjustable gauge for setting and transferring angles.

Way to use??• To originate and new angle:• Loosen the wing nut adjustment so that the blade is free to rotate.• Swing the blade until the desired angle between the handle of the bevel and the

blade side is made. This may be best achieved by placing a protractor on the inside of the bevel itself (so that the protractor is resting on the wing nut) and measuring out the desired angle.

• Lock the T bevel into place by tightening the wing nut.• Lay the T bevel on your working surface and draw the angle by tracing along the

inside of the T bevel blade and handle.• Cut away!• To transfer an existing angle:• Loosen the wing nut adjustment so that the blade is free to rotate• Lay the T bevel against the surface of the angle cut to be copied.• Rotate the inside edge of the blade to the existing angle until it matches the

angle being transferred.• Tighten the wing nut until it locks the blade and handle in position.• Place the T bevel on the working surface and transfer the angle.• Draw out the angle by tracing along the bevel on the inside edge of the blade

and handle.

18. KEY HOLE SAW

Short hand saw with a tapered blade used to cut curves or irregular shapes.

Way to use??

• .

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19. SCRATCH AWL

A sharp-pointed tool for marking wood or metal.

Way to use??

• Step 1• Get the wood and use the scratch awl to mark a point.

Take the measurement twice.• Step 2• Position a straight edge next to the point you marked.

Firmly hold the straight edge so it doesn’t move.• Step 3• No matter which scratch awl size you use, make sure to

hold it at a slight angle. This way the point will be on the straight edge. Now pull the scratch awl to you. Use the straight edge as a guide.

20. DIE STOCK

A piece of equipment that is very important to the process of creating uniform threads on different types of screw, bolts and pipes.

Way to use??

• Step 1 – Clamp the Pipe on the Working Table• To prevent the pipe from moving while you create the

threads, clamp the pipe on the side of the working table.• Step 2 – Insert the Pipe into the Hole of the Die Stock• Insert the end of the pipe into the hole of the die stock

and lock it is place.• Step 3 – Turn the Die Stock to Create the Threads• Grasp the opposite ends of the die stock then slowly turn

the die stock clockwise. The die stock has razor sharp blades that will cut into the pipe as you turn.

The End,

Thanks for lending your attention friend and lecturers.