Wire Expressions Chain Mail

designed by Scott David Plumlee

Byzantine balance

Alternating Byzantine links take a plain jump ring bracelet to the next level.

At first glance, Byzantine chain appears very complex, but it is actually considered to be a good beginning weave. Easily recognizable by its intriguing textural design, the Byzantine pattern has also been called “Bird cage,” “Fool’s dilemma,” and “Bird’s nest.”

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EDITOR’S NOTES:• copy here• copy here – Editor

materialsdescription• 2–3 item• 4 item• item

For bead colors, go to BeadAn-dButton.com/resources, choose this issue, and click the Materials List downloadable file.

stepbystepByzantine links[1] Open 180 and close 72 3.1 mm jump rings (Basics). [2] Slide two closed rings onto an open ring, and close it. Slide another open ring through the same two closed rings, and close it. This is called doubling. Separate the ring pairs to make the start of a 2+2 chain.[3] Slide an open ring through a pair of rings, slide on two more closed rings, and close the open ring. Double the new ring. Continue in this manner until the 2+2 chain is five pairs long (photo a).[4] Flip back the last two rings added, letting them fall one to each side (photo b). Separate the uppermost rings. Using a piece of scrap wire, reach between the uppermost rings, and thread the wire through the two flipped rings (photo c). Slide an open ring into this spot, replacing the scrap wire, and close the ring. Double the new ring.[5] Repeat step 4 on the other end of the chain, creating a Byzantine link.[6] Repeat steps 2–5 to make 18 Byzantine links.

a b c

Scott David Plumlee has been making jewelry for over a decade. He is the author of four books and has taught numerous workshops and classes. This mathematician created chains while traveling

through 32 countries in preparation for his first book. To see more of his work or order a kit, visit davidchain.com.

EDITOR’S NOTES:• Byzantine chain is a

4-in-1 chain, which means each ring passes through four other rings.

• The designer made his bracelet using sterling silver, copper, and brass rings. Our bracelet is made of all brass rings to show a budget-friendly option. – Jane

materialsbronze bracelet 71⁄2 in. (19.1 cm)• 290 3.1 mm inner-diameter (ID) jump rings, 19-gauge (bronze)• 21 5 mm ID jump rings, 15-gauge (bronze)• S-clasp• 2 pairs of flatnose pliers

tri-colored bracelet colors:• 3.1 mm inner-diameter (ID) jump rings, 19-gauge 252 (silver) 38 (copper)• 5 mm ID jump rings, 15-gauge (bronze)

d e

f

Assembly[1] Open 38 3.1 mm jump rings, and close 20 5 mm jump rings. Slide two closed 5 mm rings onto an open 3.1 mm ring, and close it. Double the 3.1 mm ring. Spread out the rings to make a 1+2+1 chain (photo d). Continue in this manner until you have attached all the 3.1 mm rings.[2] Open the 5 mm ring on one end of the chain, slide on the clasp and two end rings of a Byzantine link, and close it.[3] Skip the next 5 mm ring in the chain, and open the third 5 mm ring. Slide on the end rings of the first Byzan-tine link and two end rings of a new Byzantine link, and close it (photo e).[4] Open the second 5 mm ring, slide on the end two rings of a Byzantine link, and close it. Skip the next 5 mm ring in the chain, and open

the fourth 5 mm ring. Slide on the other two end rings of the first Byzantine link added on this side of the bracelet and two end rings of a new Byzantine link, and close it (photo f).[5] Continue in this manner, adding a Byzantine link to one side of the bracelet and then the other.[6] Open a 5 mm ring, and slide it through the final 5 mm ring in the bracelet, and close it. w

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©2011 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.