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Where to Dine

Cariocas love to eat out. Better yet, they love to linger over theirmeals. A waiter in Rio would never dream of coming by to ask youto “settle up” so he can go off shift. For Brazilians, that would be theheight of bad manners. So take your time. Dawdle. Savor. Enjoy.

There are countless places to dine. There are chopperias, the placefor cold beer and casual munchies. There are hundreds of food kiosks,each with their own specialty, be it barbecued prawns, Bahian fingerfood, or vegetarian sandwiches. And on top of all that, there’s a widevariety of restaurants in all neighborhoods, ranging from inexpensiveto very expensive, serving everything from simple sandwiches to deli-cious steaks, from firm fresh sushi to the complicated stews and saucesof Brazil’s northeast.

Keep in mind that portions often serve two people, especially inmore casual restaurants. Always ask when in doubt—or you maywell end up with an extraordinary amount of food. In Portugueseask, “Serve para dois?” (sair-vee pa-ra doe-is), or “Does it serve two?”

Brazilian food is hard to define, but what we consider the genericBrazilian menu comes close to what some restaurants label as interna-tional cuisine: pasta, seafood, beef, chicken. Except that, in Brazil,these are served with a local or regional twist. The pasta may bestuffed with catupiry cheese and abóbora (a kind of pumpkin), thechicken could have maracujá (passion fruit) sauce. Brazilian beefcomes from grass-fed cows, making for a very lean beef that comes inuniquely Brazilian cuts such as picanha (rump steak) or alcatra (topsirloin). And, of course, for side dishes, no Brazilian meal is completewithout farofa (see “You Say Farofa, I Say . . . Blech,” below) and riceor black beans.

Most restaurants are open from around 11am until 4pm and thenagain from 7pm until midnight or later. However, there are alsoquite a few establishments that will stay open all day, especially onthe weekends, when people leave the beach at 4pm to go eat lunch.Sunday is often the busiest day for lunch as extended families get

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together for a meal. Because Sunday lunch is so busy, many restau-rants close on Sunday evening.

The main exception to the hours mentioned above is in Rio’sdowntown. The restaurants in Centro cater primarily to the businessand office crowd and only a few of them are open in the evening oron Saturday or Sunday.

These days you will find more and more kilo (quilo in Portuguese)restaurants. The food is laid out on a large buffet, and at the betterones, there’s a chef behind a grill at the back whipping up freshlycooked steaks, chicken, sausage, or what have you. Kilos aren’t all-you-can-eat. Rather, you pay by weight (which means quality is muchbetter than at American lunch buffets). If you’re not familiar withBrazilian food, it’s a great way to see all the dishes laid out in front ofyou; you can try as little or as much as you like. Even better, there’soften a variety of salads and vegetables, which are often hard to findin Brazil. The system works as follows: When you enter the restaurant,you’re given a piece of paper on which all your orders are recorded.Don’t lose this slip or you’ll have to pay some ridiculously high fine.You grab a plate, wander by the buffet and grill filling up on whatevercatches your eye (all items have the same per kilogram cost, which isusually advertised both outside and inside the restaurant), and thentake the plate to the scale to be weighed. The weigher records thecharges on your bill, after which you find a table. Normally, a waiterwill then come by and take your drink order, adding these charges toyour tally. On your way out, the cashier sums it all up.

Tip: Small cups of strong, dark coffee (called cafezinho) are usu-ally served free on the way out. Look for a thermos and a stack oflittle plastic cups by the cashier or doorway.

1 Centro & Santa TeresaEXPENSIVEBrasserie Europa BRAZILIAN/STEAK Surrounded bymany classic buildings, Brasserie Europa’s sleek modern room withchrome and black decor is guaranteed to stand out. The restaurant

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Tips on TippingThe bill usually includes a 10% service charge and you are notexpected to tip on top of this amount unless service was excep-tional, in which case you may want to leave another 5%.

Tips

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is packed during lunch and, often, after work as well, when peoplelinger for a drink and a snack. Unlike many European brasserieswhere the menu specializes in light meals such as salads or sandwiches,here the emphasis is on meat. The menu lists a number of deliciouscuts, among them filet mignon, baby beef, and Argentinean steak.Each comes with a choice of sauce and two side dishes. Beer connois-seurs will be pleased to find Duvel and Stella Artois, two importedBelgian beers that are hard to find anywhere else in Brazil. Happyhour with live music (usually bossa nova or MPB, musica popularbrasileira) takes place Monday through Friday from 6 to 8pm.Rua Senador Dantas 117, Centro. & 021/2220-2656. R$16–R$34 (US$5–US$11).AE, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–midnight. Metrô: Cinelândia.

Cais do Oriente ASIAN/MEDITERRANEAN The areabehind the Arco de Teles is better known for its bustling outdoorbars that pack the alleyways behind the Rua Primeiro de Março, butCais do Oriente is anything but casual. This former warehouse hasundergone major renovations and emerged as a stunning venue fora restaurant and bar, complete with opulent antique furniture, largemirrors, and elegant furnishings. The menu is all over the map, cov-ering the Orient as well as the Mediterranean. You’ll find a numberof Asian dishes such as Thai noodles, grilled tuna with sesame seeds,or sweet and sour duck. The Mediterranean dishes include grilledsalmon served with a Gorgonzola- and ricotta-stuffed pancake, andbeautiful fresh figs with goat cheese and Parma ham. The barupstairs is a great venue to catch some live music on Friday or Sat-urday (cover R$20/US$7).Rua Viscone de Itaboraí 8, Centro. & 021/2233-2531. www.caisdooriente.com.br.Main courses R$25–R$40 (US$8–US$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon noon–5pm; Tues–Satnoon–midnight; Sun noon–4pm. Metrô: Uruguaiana.

Confeitaria Colombo BRAZILIAN/DESSERTS Tuckedaway in a narrow side street off the busy Avenida Rio Branco, you’llfind a stunning ornate tearoom. Except for the stained-glass windowthat was added in a 1920s renovation, the room hasn’t changedmuch since this elegant restaurant opened in 1894. The spaciousroom is divided into three sections. Two large deli counters flankingeither side of the entrance serve up sweets and savory snacks withcoffee or other refreshments for those who can’t be bothered to sitdown. The remainder of the ground floor is taken up by the eleganttearoom, where a variety of teas, sandwiches, salads, and sweets areserved on fine china underneath a 1920s stained-glass window. The

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Where to Dine in Centro

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upstairs room is reserved for full lunches—on Saturday the feijoada(bean stew) alone is worth a trip downtown.Rua Gonçalves Dias 32, Centro. & 021/2232-2300. www.confeitariacolombo.com.br. Main courses R$27–R$39 (US$9–US$13); feijoada buffet R$36 (US$12),includes dessert. Tea service R$5–R$20 (US$1.65–US$7). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri8:30am–7pm; Sat 9am–5pm. Metrô: Carioca.

MODERATEBar & Restaurante Amarelinho BRAZILIAN The primepatio on the prettiest square in Rio, the Amarelinho is the place tocome to have a cold chopp (draft beer) and gaze on the Parisianbeauty that is the Praça Floriano, particularly in the evening whenthe Biblioteca Nacional and the Teatro Municipal are lit up and thesquare begins to buzz with the energy that only Brazilians can giveoff. The menu offers a huge selection of appetizers, sandwiches,grilled chicken, and meats served with standard Brazilian side dishesof rice, fries, or farofa. Nothing too special, most people are here fora drink and a good chat with friends after a long day at the office.Praça Floriano 55B. & 021/2240-8434. Main courses R$10–R$22 (US$3.35–US$7).AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–midnight. Metrô: Cinelândia.

Bar Luiz GERMAN One of Rio’s most beloved little restau-rants, Bar Luiz has been around since 1887. Originally located onthe Rua Assembleia and called Bar Adolf (after the owner), it movedto its current location on the Rua da Carioca in 1927. Then, as now,the bar was a popular hangout for intellectuals and politicians, whichmay have been why the owner was so quick to change the name in1942. Name aside, the bar hasn’t changed much over the years. Thelong room is simply furnished with wooden tables and chairs and alovely tile floor. The walls are plainly adorned with old photographsof Rio, while big Casablanca fans overhead whirl to keep the heatdown. Even the menu has stayed much the same, in honor of the firstGerman owner. Cariocas flock here to gorge themselves on generousportions of sausage and sauerkraut, Wiener schnitzel, Kassler ham,and potato salad. (Health craze, what health craze?) The draft beer—lager and dark—is pumped through a 720m (2,376-ft.) refrigeratedhose before finding its way into your glass. Prost!Rua da Carioca 39, Centro. & 021/2262-6900. Main courses R$7.50–R$23(US$2.50–US$8). AE, DC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm. Metrô: Carioca.

Bistro do Paço BRAZILIAN Looking for a quiet spot toescape the heat and noise in downtown Rio? Duck into this little oasisinside the historic Paço Imperial. The thick whitewashed walls keep

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out the bustle while you recharge your batteries in the cool shade ofthe inner courtyard. The restaurant serves up mostly bistro fare as wellas a daily lunch special that will set you back R$14 to R$20 (US$4.50–US$7) for a plate of roast beef with a side order of pasta, spinachcrepes with a ricotta and mushroom stuffing, or a chicken filet withapplesauce and sautéed vegetables. For a light snack try one of thequiches, the freshly made sandwiches with grilled vegetables, or thecold-cut plates. Desserts are strictly European: Austrian linzertortes,German fruit strudels, and Black Forest chocolate cakes, all of whichgo so well with the omnipresent Brazilian cafezinho.Praça XV 48 (inside the Paço Imperial), Centro. & 021/2262-3613. Main coursesR$14–R$20 (US$4.50–US$7), sandwiches and quiches R$6–R$12 (US$2–US$4).AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–8pm; Sat–Sun noon–7pm. Bus: 119 or 415.

INEXPENSIVEBar do Mineiro BRAZILIAN The inland state of MinasGerais is looked on as a culinary capital of sorts in Brazil, the sourceof down-home hearty comfort food. Bar do Mineiro is a little pieceof Minas in Santa Teresa. Not limited to food only, this comborestaurant/art gallery/antiques shop also serves up an amazing vari-ety of cachaça, Brazil’s national drink, a rum-like hard liquor madefrom sugar cane. The meals are hearty and portions generous. Appe-tizers include sausages and pasteis—savory pastries with a variety ofstuffings, including sausage, cheese, or cabbage. Very popular is thefrango com quiabo (stewed chicken with okra). Feijão tropeiro isanother favorite and always appreciated by homesick Mineiros.Much thicker than the feijoada, this bean dish is made with browninstead of black beans. (See the “Where to Dine in Glória, Catete,Flamengo & Botafogo” map on p. 71.)Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno 99, Santa Teresa. & 021/2221-9227. Main coursesR$14–R$24 (US$4.50–US$8). AE, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–2am; Fri–Sat 11am–4am;Sun 11am–7pm. Bus: 214, or take the tram, getting off at the Largo dos Guimarães.

Beco das Sardinhas (Rei dos Frangos Maritimos)BRAZILIAN Known as “sardine alley” or “the sardine triangle,” thiscorner in Rio’s historic downtown is the perfect place to spend a Fri-day afternoon as locals gather to unwind from the workweek. Itstarted in the ’60s, when the Portuguese owners of three small restau-rants began selling fried sardines. They would cut open the fish andfry them like a filet, dubbed frango maritimo (chicken of the sea) by ajesting customer, and the name stuck to one of the restaurants. Thesedays the triangle has expanded to include six restaurants in a pedes-trian area between Rua do Acre and Rua Mayrink Veiga. Every Friday

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after 6pm, it transforms into a giant TGIF party. The patio tablesand counters fill up almost as quickly as the fried sardines—saltedand breaded in cassava flour—come piping hot off the grill. Accom-panied by a loura gelada (literally “icy blond,” the local nickname fordraft), it’s the perfect way to start a weekend. Once the crowd


You Say Farofa, I Say . . . Blech

Shawn says: I never got farofa. What I mean is, I got itwith every meal—that was the problem. Really, what is thepoint? Farofa (flour taken from ground manioc root, thenbaked with oil) has the dry and crumbly consistency ofsawdust—and not coincidentally, that’s pretty much whatit tastes like. Brazilians painstakingly disguise the flavor,sometimes adding raisins and dried fruit, but the end resulttastes like . . . sawdust with raisins or dried fruit. Eating itmade sense in the days when Brazilians lived in peasanthuts; farofa was the sole source of carbohydrates. Likepotatoes for the Irish, farofa kept you going. But Brazilianshave long since evolved into a nation of city dwellers.Brazilian cooking now incorporates lots of carbs—includingrice, potatoes, french fries, and sometimes all three at once.But no matter how many starches are piled on your plate,farofa will be there to top it off. Often Brazilians sprinkle iton steak, rice, potatoes, or french fries. Because you cannever get enough carbohydrates.

Alexandra says: Farofa—what’s not to like? The coarselyground roasted flour of the manioc root is the perfectcompanion to a Brazilian meal. Served plain, farofa’sunique nutty flavor stands up; allowing it to soak up thesauces or juices on your plate only enhances its flavor.What makes it really delicious are the additions and mod-ifications of each cook. Every Brazilian has his or herfavorite farofa recipe. My mother makes the best sweetfarofa with bananas and raisins; it tastes as delightful assome of the best stuffings I’ve had. Other cooks prefer asavory version, adding spicy chorizo sausage, olives, orbacon. A feijoada is just not the same without farofa. Nexttime, skip those greasy french fries and add some farofa toyour plate. Bon appetit!

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reaches critical mass, someone will inevitably strike up some samba orpagode and the party will ignite.Rua Miguel Couto 139, Centro. & 021/2233-6119. Everything under R$12 (US$4).No credit cards. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm. Metrô: Uruguaiana.

Paladino BRAZILIAN Enjoying yourself at Paladino is mucheasier than deciding where it is you are: Is it a liquor store, as thehundreds of glass bottles lined up in gleaming wooden cases seem tosuggest? Or is it a deli, with racks of spices and jars of capers andartichoke hearts? Or is it, as the crowds seem to indicate, a bustlinglunch bar with some of the best draft beer in town? Is an exact def-inition really important? Probably not. What matters is that the beeris clear and cold and comes at the wave of a finger, the atmosphereis that of Rio in the Belle Epoque, and the sandwiches and snackplates are delicious. Pratinhos, as the latter are known in Portuguese,cost next to nothing—R$3 to R$6 (US$1–US$2)—and come loadedwith sardines (whatever you do, order the sardines!) or olives, cheese,or great heaping stacks of smoked sausage. For about the same price,there are also sandwiches, packed thick with cold cuts or cheese. Allof this delectable nosh is served up by old-fashioned waiters in blackpants and white shirts. Since 1907 an eclectic mixture of lawyers,shopkeepers, workers, and executives have come here, and althoughnone have ever succeeded in defining exactly what it is, they havenever stopped coming.Rua Uruguaiana 226, Centro. & 021/2263-2094. Reservations not accepted. Maincourses R$3–R$13 (US$1–US$4.35). Cash only. Mon–Fri 8am–8:30pm; Sat 7am–noon. Metrô: Uruguaiana

2 Glória, Catete, Flamengo, Botafogo & UrcaVERY EXPENSIVEAlcaparra BRAZILIAN Very popular among the political elite(both local and national), this is one restaurant where reservations arealways recommended. The elegant dining room overlooking Fla-mengo’s waterfront is almost always packed for lunch and dinner. Therestaurant’s signature dish is the mignonettes à alcaparra—succulentlygrilled filet mignon with a melt-in-your-mouth lemon-and-caperssauce served on a bed of pasta. No less delicious and a bit moreunusual is the marreco ao poivre—duck breast and leg served with agreen pepper sauce and slices of caramelized onions. A classic dishperfect for those cooler months of June and July is the coelho aochampagne—rabbit in champagne sauce, sautéed with peppers andpotatoes. Unusual for a Brazilian restaurant, the wine list covers a

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fair bit of territory: Chile, Argentina, California, Portugal, Italy, anda lot of French reds. Prices range from R$30 to R$200 (US$10–US$67) per bottle, but there is plenty of choice in the R$30 to R$60(US$10–US$20) price range. The restaurant also has a nice bar, agood place to schmooze or maybe track down that cabinet ministerwho’s been ducking your calls.Praia do Flamengo 150. & 021/2558-3937. Reservations required. No shorts orsandals. R$18–R$46 (US$6–US$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Metrô:Flamengo.

Carême BRAZILIAN The hottest chef in town hasRio’s foodies flocking to her establishment en masse. Or, they wouldflock en masse, but Flavia Quaresma’s cozy Botafogo bistro is a tadtiny, so instead they flock in ones and fours and ooh and aah over hercreations. What’s behind the fuss? It may just be that macho Brazilianculture still finds a top female chef something of a novelty. Also, noone works quite as hard as Quaresma. No boring, predictable a lacarte menu here; every other month she puts together a tasting menuoffering a range of outstanding choices. Her cuisine is classicallyinspired, her ingredients always top quality and fresh. On our visit wetried the delicious warm salad of tender grilled veal, rabbit, and duckserved on a bed of mushrooms and greens, and the asparagus andmarinated salmon with quail eggs and a beurre blanc sauce. For ourmain courses we choose the chicken breast stuffed with duck pâté,sage, and dried mushroom sauce, and a grilled entrecôte with mashedpotatoes in a juniper-and-thyme sauce. Desserts are the creations ofthe patisserie chef, who does an amazing job with fresh fruits andchocolate. The wine list is conservative with a small selection of well-chosen merlots, cabernet sauvignons, and Chilean chardonnays.Rua Visconde de Caravelas 113, Botafogo. & 021/2537-2374. Reservationsrequired. Tasting menu (includes appetizer, main course, and dessert) R$120 (US$40).AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 8pm–close. Dinner is usually served in 2 seatings, 8:30 and11pm. Bus: 176 or 178.

EXPENSIVEAxé Santé BRAZILIAN Just down the street from sleek andfunky Madame Vida, Axé Santé couldn’t be anymore different; theold warehouse has been stripped down to the rafters and done upwith bright tropical decor, Bahian artwork, and lots of greenery.After 8pm there is live music, usually mellow bossa nova or MPB.The menu is divided into the axé category (for Bahian flavors) orsanté (for more European fare). Under the Bahian dishes, there is theobligatory acarajé (a deep-fried dumpling made from bean flour and

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Where to Dine in Glória, Catete,Flamengo & Botafogo

stuffed with dried shrimp and pepper sauce) or caldo de sururu (arich-tasting oyster broth). Main courses include moquecas (spicy stewwith coconut milk) with shrimp, crab, or fish; and vatapá, a polenta-like thick prawn stew. Santé listings include an appetizer of eggplantwith cheese and sun-dried tomato; stroganoff; and veneza chicken,served with a funghi (mushroom) risotto. Even the desserts are splitdown the geographic divide: petit gateaus and cocoda (sweet roastedcoconut) exist side by side.Rua Capitão Salomão 55, Botafogo. & 021/2266-1065. Main courses R$15–R$32(US$5–US$11). V. Daily 11:30am–2am. Bus: 178.

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Kotobuki JAPANESE The food at Kotobuki is good, verygood even, but it’s not really better than at a number of other Japan-ese restaurants around Rio. What is outstanding is what you’rewatching while you eat. Kotobuki offers a sweeping view ofBotafogo Beach, Botafogo Bay with the pretty boats at anchor in themarina, and the soaring Pão de Açúcar. Located in the seventh-floorfood court of the Botafogo Praia Shopping (I know, but food-courtfood is different in Brazil), Kotobuki offers lunchtime specialsincluding the prato executivo: 15 pieces of sushi and sashimi with amiso soup (called misoshuri in Brazil), or beef stir-fry with rice andmiso and a sunomuno salad for R$17 (US$6). A favorite lunch spe-cial, particularly on the weekends, is the Japanese buffet. It offers avariety of sushi, sashimi, appetizers, tempura, and yakisoba forR$34 (US$11). The teppanyaki for two is skillfully prepared at yourtable as the chef cooks up thin slices of beef, tofu, and vegetables.Praia de Botafogo 400, 7th floor, Botafogo. & 021/2559-9595. Reservationsaccepted, but window tables are on a 1st-come, 1st-served basis. R$15–R$49 (US$5–US$16). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Metrô: Botafogo.

Madame Vidal BRAZILIAN/ITALIAN Don’t hate herbecause she’s beautiful. In a calculated attempt to attract the artistic,the trendy, and the well heeled who tag along after them, MadamVidal has gone over the top. First, she opened her restaurant in alovely old mansion in Botafogo. Second, she tarted up the exteriorin blue and gold colonial kitsch. Third, she sent customers into cul-ture shock as they entered this baroque wedding cake of a buildingonly to find New York SoHo minimal. Oh, and then there’s food.The menu offers an amazing selection of risottos, pastas, and meatdishes including a signature veal. It’s all simply prepared with qual-ity ingredients. The ravioli stuffed with mozzarella and sun-driedtomato is fresh and delicious, as is the quail, grilled and stuffed withnuts and served with wild rice. As you’d expect from a place thataspires to attract the bohemian, Madame Vidal’s is open late.Rua Capitão Salomão 69 (corner of Visconde da Silva), Humaitá. & 021/2539-2058. Main courses R$18–R$42 (US$6–US$14).AE, MC,V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and7pm–2am; Sat–Sun 7pm–3am. Bus: 178.

Porcão BRAZILIAN/STEAK A carnivorous orgy. Porcão iswhere you go not to sample or taste or nibble, but to munch andstuff and gorge yourself on some of the best beef the world has tooffer, in this case served up with some of the best views in the world.Porcão is a churrascaria (a chain in fact) operating on the rodízio sys-tem. It’s one price for all you can eat (dessert and drinks are extra),


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and once you sit down, an onslaught of waiters comes bearing allmanner and variety of meat (steak cuts, roast cuts, filet mignon,chicken breast, chicken hearts, sausage of diverse kinds, and muchmore), which they slice to perfection on your plate. The “stop sign”card you receive is supposed to regulate this serving army—greenmeans “go ahead,” and red says “no more”—but considering howlittle respect Cariocas have for stoplights in general, it’s hardly sur-prising that waiters keep coming no matter how abjectly you waveyour little red surrender sign. Just go with it. And then there are thenonmeat dishes: Included in your meal is a buffet with dozens ofantipasto items, hot and cold seafood dishes, and at least 15 differ-ent kinds of salads and cheeses. Alas, no doggy bags allowed.Av. Infante Dom Henrique s/n, Parque do Flamengo. & 021/2554-8535. Reserva-tions accepted. All-you-can-eat meat and buffet R$39 (US$13) per person. 50% dis-count for children under 10. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am. Bus: Any bus toPraia do Flamengo.

MODERATECirculo Militar BRAZILIAN The best view of the SugarLoaf Mountain, and one of the best in all Rio, comes courtesy of theBrazilian armed forces (hey, if you’re gonna run the country, youmay as well take the best views). From the tree-shaded patio of amilitary club in Urca called the Circulo Militar, you look out acrossPraia Vemelha and a tiny bay full of fishing boats to the sheer solidsides of the Pão de Açúcar. Come in the evening and you also getthe lights of Niterói twinkling far off across the waters of GuanabaraBay. Civilians are welcome at the club (although some of the primetables are sometimes reserved for officers). The view certainly out-shines the food, but the menu provides K rations enough to accom-pany a drink or two. There’s Bella Praia pizza with shrimp, squid,and octopus, or for a more substantial meal, try the mixed churrasco

Finds

G L Ó R I A , C AT E T E , F L A M E N G O, B O TA F O G O & U R C A 73

A Gourmet Deal for LunchStriking while the stove is hot, Flavia Caresma has opened up alunchtime restaurant in downtown Rio to lure in the businesscrowd. Eça, Av. Rio Branco 128 (inside the H.Stern building),Centro (& 021/2524-2300), is a great spot to check outCaresma’s culinary skills without committing to the more formalevening event. Main courses cost R$24 to R$38 (US$8–US$13).Most credit cards accepted. Open Monday through Friday fromnoon to 4pm. Metrô: Cinelândia.

Value

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for two: beef, sausage, chicken, and pork served with fries and rice(R$26/US$13). Live music Tuesday through Sunday from 8pm.Praça General Tiburcio s/n, Praia Vermelha (on the far right, inside the military com-plex). & 021/2295-6079. Main courses R$12–R$32 (US$4–US$11). No creditcards. Tues–Sun 10am–midnight. Bus: 107 from downtown, 512 from Ipanema andCopacabana.

Estação da República KILO The Estação is top of theheap in that unique Brazilian category, the kilo restaurant. The placeis so popular that the food is always fresh. It offers a daily selectionof at least 20 salads, a range of pastas, and many favorite Braziliandishes such as feijoada, vatapá, and bobó (shrimp stew). Fancierdishes include carpaccio and sushi. The pièce de résistance, however,is the grill in the back of the restaurant, where skilled chefs fire upthe barbecue and serve you a choice of beef, chicken, and a wideassortment of fish. It’s a great place for children; they can see thefood and try as much or as little as they like. Make your selection,weigh your plate, and find yourself a seat; drinks are served at yourtable. If the ground floor looks packed, take the escalator up to thesecond floor for more tables.Rua do Catete 104, Catete. & 021/2225-2650. Reservations not accepted. R$22(US$7) per kilo. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Metrô: Catete.

3 Copacabana & LemeVERY EXPENSIVECipriani ITALIAN For an elegant evening out, there’s noplace like the Copacabana Palace. At Cipriani, always a top con-tender for Rio’s best restaurant, every dinner guest receives five-startreatment. The elegant dining room overlooks the hotel’s swimmingpool and courtyard, both magically illuminated at night. Reserveearly to book a window table. The menu is mostly classic Italianwith a few contemporary twists. A signature dish showing off thechef ’s talents is the potato ravioli with black truffle—so simple, yetso satisfying. Equally scrumptious was the tagliatelle in a cream-and-coconut sauce with succulent sweet prawns. My favorite, how-ever, was the duck breast in a balsamic sauce with blueberries—theperfect balance between sweet and savory. Another noteworthyentree is the ravioli with eggplant and mozzarella—my pasta dishesnever turn out this brilliantly.Copacabana Palace Hotel, Av. Atlântica 1702, Copacabana. & 021/2548-7070.Reservations required. Dress: semi-formal. Main courses R$38–R$58 (US$13–US$19).AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 8pm–1am. Metrô: Arco Verde.

Kids


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Where to Dine in Copacabana & Leme

Le Pré-Catelan FRENCH Ever since French chef RolandVillard took over the kitchen in 1998, it’s been raining awards at LePré-Catelan. Fortunately, Villard and his staff haven’t had the timeto become complacent, instead continuing to challenge themselvescreating exquisite French cuisine with just a bit of a Brazilian twist.Updated every 2 weeks, the menu offers a selection of appetizers,main courses, and dessert for R$125 (US$42), a steal consideringthe quality of the ingredients, the preparation, and the service. Thechef himself comes to each table to review the menu and explain theevening’s dishes. Some of the best we’ve tried so far include the lan-goustine carpaccio served on a bed of crab salad with avocadomousse, and the beautifully presented slices of namorado fish filetserved in a mille-feuille format with layers of wild mushrooms in a

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port wine reduction. More exotic is the capivara ragout, served like acoq au vin, stewed in red wine. The meat is marinated to lose its fat-tiness, leaving it tender and flavorful. The after-dinner cheese cart hassome interesting choices, such as a fresh goat cheese made in Tere-sopolis. Desserts, yes there is more food, are made from scratch. If youcan’t choose, order the “symphonie” of desserts for a taste of four orfive minidesserts. Even diabetics have a few options, all expertly madeby pastry chef Beatrice. Enjoy, indulge, and—with a smile on yourface—walk off the calories along Copacabana’s beach boulevard.Hotel Sofitel. Av. Atlântica 4240, Copacabana. & 021/2525-1232. Reservationsrequired. Dress: business casual. Main courses R$39–R$65 (US$13–US$22). AE, DC,MC, V. Mon–Wed 7:30–11:30pm; Thurs–Sat 7:30pm–midnight. Bus: 415.

Marius Crustáceos SEAFOOD/BRAZILIAN If the all-you-can-eat rodízio system works for meat, the successful owner of Mar-ius restaurants asked himself one day, why wouldn’t it work forseafood? And thus was Marius Crustáceos born, a must-eat stop forevery seafood lover. Most people start off with a trip to the buffet,helping themselves to the feast of antipasto; cold seafood such asprawns, oysters, and crab; as well as warm seafood favorites such aspaella, pasta with seafood, and popular dishes from Bahia, includ-ing moqueca and vatapá. As hard as it may be, exercise restraint andsave your appetite for the prime catch the waiters will bring to yourtable: lobster, prawns, tuna steaks, salmon, crab. Don’t be shy aboutasking for your favorite seafood if you don’t see it out in the diningroom. Chances are that they will be able to provide it. Some of ourBrazilian friends find that the waiters at Crustáceos aren’t aggressiveenough about pushing their seafood wares, but we found it a pleas-ant change of pace from some of the overeager churrascaria waiters.Av. Atlântica 290A, Leme. & 021/2543-6363. Reservations accepted. All-you-can-eat seafood and buffet R$70 (US$23) per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–4pm and 6pm–midnight; Sat–Sun noon–midnight. Bus: 472.

EXPENSIVEDa Brambini ITALIAN For traditional Italian food in acozy little bistro, look no further than Da Brambini. Decorated withfamily photos of the Brambinis, who hail from northern Italy, therestaurant has the welcoming and friendly atmosphere of an Italiantrattoria. To start with, indulge in the couvert—a tasty antipastoplatter with olives, salami, tuna paste, grilled eggplants, and freshlybaked breads. Other worthwhile appetizers include the polenta withfresh funghi (mushrooms) or Gorgonzola. The main courses includeveal with mushrooms, traditional osso buco (veal shanks stewed in

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wine), and a number of outstanding pasta dishes. Da Brambini cer-tainly doesn’t skimp on ingredients; the handmade ravioli withshrimp is just swimming with the little critters, all smothered in acreamy seafood sauce. The linguine with mussels, sururu (a tinyclam), and vongole (small clams) are equally tasty. An Italian restaurantis bound to have a half-decent wine list, and Da Brambini doesn’tdisappoint with a good selection of Italian reds, starting at R$28(US$9) a bottle, while frascati or pinot grigio whites start at R$32(US$11). The service is unhurried, and the staff is happy to let youlinger over your dinner.Av. Atlântica 514, Leme. & 021/2275-4346. Reservations recommended. Maincourses R$24–R$38 (US$8–US$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–1am. Bus: 472.

Dom Camillo ITALIAN While Copacabana’s famous beach-front sidewalk offers many restaurant options, normally the food is atthe most just mediocre—what’s really on sale are the views. DomCamillo, however, offers fine beachfront dining in the open-air heartof Copa. The first clue that something’s different here is the furni-ture—in lieu of plastic tables, Dom Camillo features solid woodenpatio furniture and crisp white linen. The food lives up to the atmos-phere. A large pasta selection includes the Dom Camillo spaghetti,served with prawns, garlic, and green and red peppers. Vegetarianswill like the ravioli with spinach, ricotta, and fresh Parmesan. One ofthe house specialties is the fresh fish, roasted in a thick salt crust orserved with a tomato, olive, and herb dressing. Meat lovers will enjoya scaloppini with porcini mushrooms and roasted potatoes. Tradi-tional Italian music is served up live daily from 9pm to midnight.Av. Atlântica 3056, Copacabana. & 021/2549-9958. Main courses R$16–R$34(US$5–US$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2am. Bus: 415.

Siri Mole BAHIAN One of the best Bahian restaurants intown, Siri Mole is named after the signature ingredient in North-eastern cuisine, the soft-shell crab. Not only are the little critters inthe name, they’re also in the appetizer menu. Look for crunchy friedsoft-shell crabs with tons of garlic, perfect for munching with a coldbeer or a caipirinha. Not so good for sharing but equally deliciousto start with is the caldo de sururu, a rich and delicately flavoredchowderlike soup, brimming over with tiny clams. On the mainmenu you will find more siri mole in the moqueca. However, if thisslightly crunchy crustacean ain’t your thing, you can choose from anumber of other moquecas made with lobster, cod, prawns, octopus,or squid. For a lighter alternative, Siri Mole also serves seafood from

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the grill. Save a little bit of room for dessert. A cool and smoothfavorite is the quindim, a creamy coconut pudding often served witha plum sauce. For a bigger sugar hit, try the cocada—pure coconutmixed with pure cane sugar—then wash it down with a hot andblack cafezinho.Rua Francisco Otaviano 50, Copacabana. & 021/2267-0894. Reservationsaccepted. Main courses R$30–R$46 (US$10–US$15), check on the portion sizesbefore ordering; some are huge! AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 7pm–midnight; Tues–Sunnoon–midnight. Bus: 415.

INEXPENSIVEBabuska DESSERTS Top-quality ice cream, made fromscratch with only the freshest ingredients. Babuska has a large vari-ety of flavors—50 at least—including many wonderful tropicaltreats such as mango, pumpkin with coconut, papaya, passion fruit,and—for those hide-bound traditionalists—even chocolate.Rua Constante Ramos 13, Loja A, Copacabana. & 021/2255-1741. R$6 (US$3) orless. 9am–10pm. Bus: 415.

Clube dos Marimbás One of Copacabana’s best-keptpatio secrets is the veranda restaurant of this private waterfront club.Located just to the left of the Forte de Copacabana, this prime pieceof real estate is occupied by well-to-do boaters and sun worshiperswho come to enjoy the club’s fabulous facilities. The restaurant,however, is open to ordinary, non-member mortals. The menuoffers a good variety of fish and seafood dishes such as moqueca,

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Kids


Where to Find the Finest FeijoadaFor the best feijoada in town, try a Saturday lunch at one ofthe following restaurants. Confeitaria Colombo, Rua GonçalvesDias 32, Centro (& 021/2221-0107), serves an outstanding fei-joada in the loveliest dining room in town. Galani, Av. VieiraSouto 460, on the 23rd floor of the plush Caesar Park Hotel,Ipanema (& 021/2525-2525), is famous for its Saturday buffet.Even fancier is the spread served at the Sheraton’s Miradorrestaurant, Avenida Niemeyer, São Conrado (& 021/2274-1122), with its privileged ocean view. After lunch you will wel-come the 30-minute walk back to Leblon.

For a hearty feijoada any old day of the week, visit Casa daFeijoada, Rua Prudente de Moraes 10, Ipanema (& 021/2523-4994). Here Brazil’s most famous dish is served for lunch ordinner.

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prawns with catupiru cheese, or squid. Most dishes serve two peo-ple. There’s usually an inexpensive (R$9/US$3) daily special forone, such as pasta or chicken stroganoff. Boaters seem to have goodtaste in wine because the wine list offers a better-than-average selec-tion of Chilean, Argentinean, and Portuguese wines. However, thefinal word should go to the view: Ahhhhhh!Praça Coronel Eugenio Franco 2, Copacabana. & 021/2267-5151. R$9–R$26(US$3–US$8.65). Tues–Fri noon–1am. Bus: 474. The entrance is at the small boothjust left of the gates of the Fort; let the attendant know that you are visiting therestaurant.

4 IpanemaVERY EXPENSIVEMadame Butterfly JAPANESE Rio’s favorite Japaneserestaurant, Madame Butterfly has in its 14 years seen Japanese cui-sine in Brazil evolve from exotic novelty to just another part of theRio dining scene. So now that Japanese has arrived, the two sisterswho guide the Butterfly have decided it’s time to spread their wingsand get a bit more creative. Some of this involves going back toJapan to capture, tag, and re-export dishes that never seemed tomake it to the West. Tops so far in this category is umewan soup, arich broth made with Japanese plums, algae, and horseradish. Theirother thrust is developing delicious new Brazilian-Japanese hybridssuch as gyoza with Brazilian abóbora, or ginger-flavored lobsterserved on a cheese risotto. Another interesting twist is the casquinhade siri, a Japanese-inflected version of the traditional Bahian appe-tizer. As done in the Butterfly, the dish features crabmeat and spiceson a half shell sprinkled with fresh fish eggs.Rua Barão de Torre 472, Ipanema. & 021/2267-4347. Reservations recommendedon weekends. R$28–R$55 (US$9–US$18). AE, DC, MC. Daily noon–2am. Bus: 415.

Satyricon SEAFOOD Just for fun, don some dark shadesand cop an attitude when you walk up to Satyricon. Depending onthe quality of your movie-star swagger, you might well find apaparazzi or two leaping out, camera in hand, to snap off candidshots of your arrival. This is, after all, one of Rio’s most select hang-outs, and the society columnists and snap-happy photogs are neverfar away. Fame and fortune certainly weren’t amassed overnight byowners Marly and Miro Leopardi, who started the restaurant 20years ago with an emphasis on Italian-style seafood. Over the years,the Italian focus has faded somewhat, supplanted by a total devotionto seafood itself. Dinner should certainly start with the three-fish

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carpaccio, made fresh every day with an always changing variety offish. If you’re feeling hungry or have brought the entourage along,you could also go for the seafood platter. Not only is it outstanding,but it’s also humongous. One of the restaurant’s trademark dishes isthe pargo, a firm white fish that comes with filets crusted in a layerof kosher sea salt. For a heartier dish, try the codfish stew with redwine, olives, tomatoes, and peppers. And if Madonna is in town,better get here early. This is her favorite Rio restaurant, and she’s notknown for sharing.Rua Barão da Torre 192, Ipanema.& 021/2521-0627. www.satyricon.com.br. Reser-vations required. Main courses R$34–R$65 (US$11–US$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon6pm–2am; Tues–Sat noon–2am; Sun noon–midnight. Bus: 415.

EXPENSIVEYemanjá BAHIAN If your beach and sightseeing schedule isgetting too hectic, step into this little piece of Bahia in the heart ofIpanema’s busiest shopping district. The name and decor pay homageto the sea goddess Yemanjá, and with her blessing, the menu show-cases the best and freshest the sea has to offer. To whet your appetite,order the couvert—not your usual bread, butter, and olives, but adelectable combination of Bahia’s best flavors including grilled squid,tapioca pancake, and a dollop of vatapá fish stew. You may want toskip other appetizers as the dishes are hearty and portions are large.Prominently featured on the list of main courses are the moquecas, atraditional Bahian stew made with coconut milk, red palm oil, pep-pers, cilantro, and a generous amount of lime juice. Other Bahianfavorites include bobó—a stew made with succulent shrimp—andvatapá—the richest stew of all, made with fish, ground-up peanuts,and sauce thickened with bread. All main courses serve two with lotsleft over. Service is laid-back and unhurried and the staff is friendlyand helpful; it’s the perfect timeout for a tired traveler.Rua Visconde de Pirajá 128, Ipanema. & 021/2247-7004. Main courses R$22–R$39 (US$7–US$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6pm–midnight; Fri–Sat and holidaysnoon–midnight; Sun noon–10pm. Bus: 415.

Zazá Bistrô Tropical BRAZILIAN/FUSION Dishes atZazá blend South American cuisine with Oriental flavors, makingZazá one of the few fusion restaurants in Rio de Janeiro. Appetizersinclude deliciously sautéed shrimp with palm hearts in a sweet-and-sour sauce and crisp little fall (not spring) rolls with shiitake mush-rooms and caramelized vegetables. Main courses often lack cutenames but don’t disappoint when it comes to mixing up the flavors.The tuna steak comes grilled in a soy-and-passion-fruit sauce on a


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Where to Dine in Ipanema & Leblon

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bed of cardamom rice. Also popular is the filet mignon with heartof palm and mushroom sauce served with a balsamic reduction.Vegetarians can always choose a daily special, made with seasonalproduce and interesting spices.

A seating tip: The folks lined up at the door every night aren’tthere for a seat on the veranda or at one of the ground-floor tables.The “in” place to eat is upstairs, where everyone sits on the floor lean-ing back on masses of silk-covered pillows. Surrounded by candle-light and lanterns, the room feels like a palace from Arabian Nights.Rua Joana Angelica 40, Ipanema. & 021/2247-9101. R$28–R$42 (US$9–US$14).AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7:30pm–1am; Fri–Sat 7:30pm–2am. Bus: 415.

MODERATEChurrascaria Carretão BRAZILIAN/STEAK For achurrascaria meal without breaking the bank, try Carretão. The sys-tem is similar to many rodízio restaurants: Meats are delivered rightto your table by a constant parade of waiters carrying a variety ofcuts, and you can help yourself to a large buffet with a selection of20 salads, various types of sushi, and some fish dishes. Among thelatter, the bacalhau a bras is especially good. This traditional Por-tuguese dish consists of a codfish stew with potatoes, olives, and egg.On the meat side, in addition to beef, Carretão also serves up a vari-ety of pork, sausage, chicken, and turkey cuts. Children under 5 eatfree and those 5 to 9 pay only half price. Just keep them away fromthe fancy fruit smoothies and desserts that the waiters eagerly pushon you; these jack up the bill pretty quickly.Rua Visconde de Pirajá 112, Ipanema. & 021/2267-3965. Reservations accepted.All-you-can-eat R$23 (US$8); drinks and desserts extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Bus: 404 or 474 (corner Teixeira de Melo).

Gula Gula BRAZILIAN For a lighter and healthier meal orsnack, stop in at Gula Gula. The menu includes delicious fresh sal-ads such as the caprese, a layered tower of sliced tomatoes, basil, andmozzarella; the salada da casa, with mixed greens, pumpkin, goatcheese, and crisp bits of Parma ham; or the more Brazilian palmheart salad with turkey and pineapple. Gula Gula also serves a vari-ety of grilled meats, chicken, and fish. Each selection of meat comeswith a choice of sauce and two side dishes (vegetables, potatoes, orsalad). Other lunch or light dinner options include pasta, quiches,and sandwiches. The Ipanema location has a lovely sidewalk patio.For dessert, you can try some of the low-cal options, but to live upto the name (gula means “gluttony”) it behooves you to try a bananacrème brûlée or fruit strudel.

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Rua Anibal de Mendonça 132 Ipanema. & 021/2259-3084. Main courses R$15–R$26 (US$5–US$8.50). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Bus: 415.

Joanne Bistrot e Boulangerie BAKERY True, mosthotels have fabulous breakfast buffets, but sometimes you sleep in orelse just want a long leisurely morning with a coffee and a book.Joanne Bistrot is the perfect spot to take a break from your busysightseeing schedule. Grab a table on the pleasantly shaded patioand start with a perfectly made cappuccino. Breakfast optionsinclude flaky brioches with jam, baked goods, or a continentalbreakfast with bread, juice, cold cuts, and cheese. The bistro menuoffers more elaborate sandwiches, such as a croissant with pears andGorgonzola, or filet mignon with tomato confit. Joanne also has afull lunch and dinner menu including traditional bistro fare, such aslamb chops in an herb crust, or entrecôte with french fries and greensalad; but the atmosphere is best enjoyed in the morning as thestreets slowly come to life and Cariocas get on with their day.Rua Joana Angelica 159, Ipanema. & 021/2513-3380. Breakfast items R$6–R$20(US$2–US$6.65); lunch and dinner R$15–R$32 (US$5–US$11). DC, MC, V. Daily7am–midnight. Bus: 415.

INEXPENSIVEBig Nectar QUICK BITES One of Rio’s best lanchonetes,Big Nectar is a bit like a magician’s top hat. You glance into thishole-in-the-wall diner and think there’s nothing there, then the guybehind the counter conjures up any kind of fruit juice you care toname, all of it made fresh and to order. Actually, the menu in thisstanding-room-only spot lists just over 25 different kinds of fruitjuice. In addition to the standards such as passion fruit (maracujá),pineapple (abacaxi), or cashew fruit (caju), there’s carambola (starfruit), goiaba (guava), jaca (jack fruit), and açerola (red juice fromthe tiny açerola fruit). This is where things get fun. You mix anythingwith anything else. Try laranja com açerola (orange juice with açerola,a very popular combination), maracujá with mango, or pineapplewith guava, cashew, and açerola.Teixeira de Melo 34A, Ipanema. No phone. Everything under R$12 (US$4). No creditcards. Daily 7am–midnight. Bus: 404 or 474.

5 LeblonVERY EXPENSIVEGarcia & Rodrigues BRAZILIAN/FRENCH When Gar-cia & Rodrigues first opened in 1997, it became an instant success,

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leaving other deli and gourmet stores scratching their heads on justhow to compete with this veritable food megacomplex. Encompassedwithin its walls are a delicatessen, bakery, cafe, patisserie, ice-creamparlor, and wine bar. And if that isn’t enough, there’s also a restaurantwith fine dining. In the capable hands of chef Christophe Lidy, thekitchen makes use of Brazil’s freshest ingredients to create dishes witha French accent. Much to the delight of regulars, the menu changesfrequently, adjusting to the ingredients available seasonally. Onerecurring menu favorite, however, is the galinha d’angola, a roastedchicken stuffed with a compote of pears and spices. The garlic-roastedswordfish is a dish I wouldn’t mind seeing again someday, and I have


Rio’s Avenida Gourmet

We could probably fill half the chapter with reviews ofrestaurants on the Rua Dias Ferreira, but then you’d missout on all kinds of other fabulous neighborhoods and din-ing options. However, this winding street on the far edge ofLeblon is worth a visit as it is quickly emerging as Rio’s mainavenida gourmet. You could live on salad alone at O Celeiro(Rua Dias Ferreira 199; & 021/2274-7843). You pay by theweight, so try a variety of salads at the delicious buffet andgrab a spot on the large patio. New kid on the block Zuka(Rua Dias Ferreira 233; & 021/3205-7154) may look like justanother funky lounge but actually packs quite a punch.Working on a charcoal grill, chef Felipe Bronze (who alsoconsults for Sushi Leblon across the street) serves up inventivedishes including a delicious grilled lamb with cardamom.Across the street you’ll find Carlota (Rua Dias Ferreira 64;& 021/2540-6821), chosen by Condé Nast Traveller as one ofthe 50 most exciting restaurants in the world. Chef Carlotaopened this Rio restaurant after her original São Paulo digsbecame the toast of the town. As in the original, her dishesare fresh and creative. Farther down, on the corner of RuaRainha Guilermina, is the sushi hotspot of the city, SushiLeblon (Rua Dias Ferreira 256; & 021/2512-7830). On Thursdayto Saturday evenings, the lines can be long, but most peopledon’t seem to mind the wait. If you’re up on who’s who inthe Brazilian entertainment world, you can pass the timespotting artists, models, and actresses.

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equally fond memories of the duck breast with figs—a perfect mar-riage of tender, slightly fatty duck meat and the sweet, meaty flavor offigs. Definitely leave room for dessert; the patisserie chef and ice-cream makers do not disappoint.Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 1251, Leblon. & 021/2512-8188. Reservations recommended.Main courses R$30–R$68 (US$10–US$23). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 8pm–midnight;Tues–Sun 1–4pm. Deli and bakery: Daily 8am–midnight. Bus: 415.

EXPENSIVEAtaulfo BRAZILIAN/DELI A large restaurant and deli,Ataulfo offers something for any time of the day. Walk in for a quickcoffee and a sweet, a light sandwich, a delicious buffet lunch, or amore leisurely dinner for two. The lunch buffet is a bit differentfrom most others; instead of paying by the kilo or for an all-you-can-eat feast, you choose per dish, combining one, two, or moredishes into the meal of your choice. For example, you could pick upa quiche and a salad, or a chicken filet with sun-dried tomato andbasil sauce and a side dish of sautéed potatoes. All dishes are pricedR$2.90 to R$14 (95¢–US$4.35) and vary every day. For those whocan resist the urge to order dessert, the deli section provides one lasttemptation on the way out. Strategically placed by the door, its glasscases contain a cornucopia of pastries, sweets, and sorbets. Goahead, you can always get it to go.Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 630, Ipanema. & 021/2540-0606. www.ataulfo.com.br. Reser-vations for groups only. Small dishes under R$10 (US$3.35); main courses R$12–R$31(US$4–US$10). AE, MC, V. Lunch 11:30am–5:30pm daily; dinner 7:30pm–midnightdaily. Deli and cafe: Daily 9am–midnight. Bus: 415.

MODERATEMil Frutas DESSERTS Already famous for its luscious icecream, Mil Frutas has now added salads, quiches, and wraps to itsmenu. The latter is still something of a novelty in Brazil, so there aresome interesting combinations available: Cowboy wraps with red-pepper cream cheese, egg, ham, and mushrooms; and Arabescowraps with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh cheese, radicchio, and olives.If the wrap trend doesn’t take root in Rio, Mil Frutas will alwayshave a role selling the best ice cream in town.Rua Garcia d’Avila 134, Ipanema. & 021/2521-1584. All items under R$12 ($4).No credit cards. Daily 10:30am–1am. Bus: 415.

INEXPENSIVEBibi Sucos QUICK BITES The overhead menu at thispopular neighborhood juice bar is refreshingly straightforward: juice,

Value

Value

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juice, and juice. You pick one or more fruit combinations and into theblender they go. It’s trendy in newly health-conscious Rio to add ascoop of protein powder for strength, guaraná for energy, or pollen forgeneral health. In addition to providing for your liquid needs, Bibialso sells hamburgers, grilled cheese sandwiches, and a variety ofBrazilian savory pastries.Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 591, Leblon. & 021/2259-4298. Everything under R$10(US$3.35). No credit cards. Daily 8am–2am; later on weekends if busy. Bus: 415.

JARDIM BOTÂNICOEXPENSIVEBistrô Madeleine MEDITERRANEAN This charmingbistro is the labor of love of chef and owner Madeleine. Famous forher dinner parties, she decided to set up a restaurant and share hercreative cuisine with others. Are we glad she did; her cuisine blendsthe flavors of the Mediterranean and her own native Lebanon in fab-ulous salads, pastas, and other inventive dishes made with fresh veg-etables and herbs. Starters include a delicious green salad (salada viaveneto) with raw ham, sun-dried tomato, and yogurt ice-cream sea-soning. If available, try the fresh oysters from Florianopolis. Themain courses feature some excellent steak dishes such as the filetmignon byblos, served in a pistachio crust and sun-dried tomatoravioli. For a one-of-a kind risotto try the risotto del amore, madefrom a black rice, served with lobster or prawns. The pastas deservea special note; made in house, they are light as a feather and full offlavor. The lemon butter linguini is simply amazing. A comprehen-sive wine list offers plenty of affordable bottles (under R$90/US$30),mostly from Italy and France. Desserts tend to tropical flavors suchas the delicious grilled pineapple and ice cream, or the St. Tropez, alight chocolate cake (almost a mousse) served with mango sauce. OnSunday, Madeleine cooks up a full Lebanese lunch buffet.Rua Frei Leandro 20, Jardim Botânico. & 021/2527-9003. Main courses R$28–R$45 (US$9–US$15); all-you-can-eat lunch buffet R$39 (US$13). AE, DC, MC V.Mon–Sat 7pm–1am; Sun noon–6pm. Bus: 572 (from Leblon or Copacabana) or 170(from downtown).

Capricciosa PIZZA One of the trendiest pizza restaurants intown, Capricciosa has been a hit since it first opened in 2002. Withits high ceiling, brick walls, and suspended light panels, the restau-rant feels like a modern dining hall, albeit one that comes with greatfood and excellent service. A large wood-burning oven dominatesthe back of the room and turns out great-tasting pizzas and calzones,from the plain pizza margarita with mozzarella, Parmesan, fresh


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basil, and tomato, to the signature Capricciosa with tomato, ham,artichoke, mushrooms, bacon, and egg. The restaurant also has a deli-cious cold-cut and antipasto buffet, all served with slices of crustyhomemade bread. Those who prefer a more low-key and intimate set-ting may opt for the wine bar, to the left of the main dining room,instead of the bustling dining room; the menus are the same.Rua Maria Angelica 37, Jardim Botânico. & 021/2527-2656. Main courses R$22–R$33 (US$7–US$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7pm–1am (later if it’s busy); Sunnoon–6pm. Bus572 (from Leblon or Copacabana) or 170 (from downtown).

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