FASH 15 textiles

dyeing & printing

dyeing & printing

color is one of the most significant factors in the appeal & marketability of textile products

manner in which color is added to a textile and the chemical nature of the colorant contribute to productsappearanceperformancerate of response to fashion changequalitycost

color theory

complex phenomenon that combines the physics of lightchemistry of colored objectsbiology of the eyebehavioral sciencessocial & cultural meaning of coloraesthetics

colorantspigments

insoluble color particles held on surface of a fabric by a binding agent

application is quick, simple & economicalmore than 80% of printed fabrics colored with pigmentsfewer sustainability issues compared to dyeslower color strengthuses more pigmentwashdown can be a problem (losing color)used on short-run prints such as university logos, professional sports teams, event t-shirts, etc

colorantsdyes

complex organic compounds used to add color to materials by binding to them

molecules dissolved in in water or some other carrier that allows them to penetrate the fiberstage added affects penetrationchemical additives used to regulate penetrationgreat color strengthsmall amount of dye colors large quantities of fabricused in either solutions or pastes (used for printing)thermoplastic fibers difficult to dye http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBN3hDIz88Y

stages of dyeing

fiber stageadded to fibers before yarn spinningslightly irregular color (heathered or mottled)mass pigmentation (solution-dyed)adding colored pigments or dyes to spinning solution before fiber is formedstock or fiber dyeing is expensive

stages of dyeing

yarn stagecan be done with yarn in skeins skein dyeingyarns wrapped on cones or packages package dyeingyarn wound on beams beam dyeing

yarn-dyed fabrics more expensive to producelarger inventories of yarn neededthreading loom

considered to be better quality fabricshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wfagh_MZRw&feature=related

participation activity:yarn dyeing wool & kapok samples

using the wool & kapok samples created in the yarn spinning activity from a previous class, select a color of kool-aid dye to experiment withput both samples in the same color for comparison purposesleave in dye for duration of class

stages of dyeing

piece/fabric stage

piece dyeingwhen bolt or roll of fabric dyed usually produces solid-color fabricsgenerally costs less to dyecolor decisions can be delayed

cross dyeingpiece dyeing of fabrics (sometimes yarns) made of different generic fiberseach fiber type bonds with a different dye class

union dyeinganother type of piece dyeing that uses dyes suited to each fiber type, mixed to produce same hue

stages of dyeing

product stageafter fabric is cut & sewn into finished product

great care must be taken in handling materials & dyeing to produce level, uniform colorbutton, thread, trim may be different color because of differences in dye absorptionimportant due to quick response to retail & consumer demands

methods of dyeing

batch dyeingAKA exhaust dyeingtextile circulated through dye bath, can be used in any stage of production

beck (reel or winch) dyeingfabric (in loose rope) lifted in and out of dye bath by a reeljig dyeinguses stationary dye bath with two rolls above bathfabric carried around rolls & rolled back and forthpad dyeingfabric run through dye bath in open width then between squeeze rollers to force dye into fabric with pressure

methods of dyeing

package dyeingdye bath forced through textile during yarn stagewound on core and placed on perforated spindle in pressurized machine

methods of dyeing

combination dyeingboth textile & dye bath are circulatedjet dyeingsimilar to beck dyeingfabric processed as continuous looppaddle machines, rotary drums or tumblersused primarily for product dyeingcontinuous machinesused for large fabric lotsinclude compartments for wetting-out, dyeing, after-treatment, washing, rinsing

methods of dyeing

resist dyeingblock color absorption during yarn or fabric dyeingbatikgenerally hand process using hot wax applied to fabric in given designtie dyehand process in which areas of yarn or fabric are wrapped with thread or stringikatancient form of resist in which yarn is tied, dyed & wovenrequires great skill to determine placement of design in finished fabrichttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkFc0JNsmO0

printing

used to add color to localized areas onlyallows for greater design flexibility and relatively inexpensive patterned fabricwet prints use a thick, liquid pastedry prints use a powderfoam prints use a colorant dispersed in foam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iVicNDx-00&feature=related

printing methods

direct printingcolor is applied directly to fabric in pattern & location desired in finished fabricblock printinghand process; oldest techniqueexpensive & slowwarp printingwarp yarn printed before weavinghttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ4_0shRurE

printing methods

discharge printingpiece-dyed fabrics in which design is made by removing color from selected fabric areasusually done on dark backgrounds

screen printingincredibly versatile, simple processseparate mesh screens used for each color http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91Y59-gSBi8&NR=1&feature=fvwp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQpmFFarsZA&feature=related

printing methods

digital printingink-jet printing

heat-transfer printingdesign transferred to fabric from specially printed paper by heat & pressure

electrostatic printingprepared screen covered with powdered dye; passes through electric field & pulled onto material

foil printingadhesive applied to fabric, foil heated on heat transfer press & bonds to adhesive pattern

stencil printingseparate pattern cut for each color, color is applied in thick paste or sprayed on with air gun

participation activity:yarn dyeing wool & kapok samples

remove your yarn samples from the dyeplease be careful not to spill or dribble dye, clean up after yourselfrinse and wring out yarn samples wellcompare the two samples and answer the following questions:how well did the wool take the dye?how well did the kapok take the dye?what differences between the two samples are readily identifiable?which one do you like better?anything else you would like to add?lay out samples to dry in resource roomI will collect & grade them later