week 1-4 review

Unit 27 Task 3

Week 1-4 and Review 1

Week 1/4Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength Date: 21/1/15 Date: 21/1/15

Time: 21:22 Time: 21:40

Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities CentreBrighton rdShoreham-by-sea West SussexBN435LT


Equipment: - Climbing wall - Rope - Belayer and belay device - Harness- Climbing shoes - Chalk - Video camera (phone)-Stopwatch - 10x climbers

Equipment: - Flat non-slip surface - Stopwatch - Assistant - Pad and paper

Weather: Indoor climbing wall Weather: Indoor climbing wall

Coaches Review: Colin has agreed with the testing plan for this week ad belies that these are her four weakest area of performance, that need significant work if she going to improve her performance.

Coaches Review: Colin believes that working on core strength will also help with Nez’s fear of falling which has a significant effect on her ability to improve grade. The core is at the bases of her weakness and should help when doing big rock over's

Athlete Feedback / Questions:

has a conscious understanding that she needs to look at what she needs to do the moves. Looking at video evidence has given some confidence and has a belief that her planning will improve even further.


Has an understanding of the training, that were are going to startHas an understanding that she has a lack of self confidence, which is key to improving her performance.

Is Progress As Expected?If No Describe:

As this is the first week. I was going through with Nez her weaknesses and constructing the 4 tests, that are appropriate to Nez as a climber


In the first week this is the start of the tests so from this point progress will be made when looking at the two weakest areas of my clients climbing performance. The weakest areas which I feel will aid the rest of her performance are route planning and core strength.

Are the Next Session Overload and Progression Plans Appropriate?If No Describe:

Working on overload for Nez’s next session as she has also started her CWLA which by improving these two weaknesses significantly it will work on other aspects of her climbing to improve overall. By continually watching back the videos of each climb she does on own or with the coach.


Working o progressing Nez from this initial testing weak by putting what she has learnt in the core strength and stability test on the wall so that she can reach her goal of being able to climb 6b’s.

Was Contingency Needed? If Yes Describe:

No . This is initial testing week and no alternative plan is needed from being injured or prevention of performance.


No . This is initial testing week and no alternative plan is needed from being injured or prevention of performance.

Week 2/4

Improvement Priority 1:Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength Date: 26/1/15 Date: 26/1/15

Time: 15:00 Time: 15:00



Equipment: - Climbing wall - Rope - Belayer and belay device - Harness- Climbing shoes - Chalk - Video camera (phone)-Stopwatch

Equipment: - Flat non-slip surface - Stopwatch - Assistant - Pad and paper - Climbing wall - Rope - Belayer and belay device - Harness- Climbing shoes - Chalk - Video camera (phone)-Stopwatch

Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation of climbing I this wall.

Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation of climbing I this wall

Coaches Review: Not a great improvement as it has only been the second week. But Nez now has an understanding of her weaknesses and the way she needs to improvement her weaknesses. I believe she should go to different walls for planning unseen routes

Coaches Review: She has begun to take more risks when on the walls, de to her core staying strong for longer and not giving out on her so quickly, due to the fact that her daily training and review of videos is still being carried out.


Struggles with rock over and getting up Watching others helps quite allot – she is a visual learner


Warming up helps- is good for fingers and lubricating muscles helps with flexibility. Overworked can effect her fear of falling


Small progress has been made, but further improvement needs to be done to get her up to standard to reach her goal.


Small progress has been made on 6b grade climb, she is beginning to get her foot over more on the big rock over. And is climbing the wall better at the beginning.


No not appropriate due to her work life taking over, so should be adapted accordingly. So that her training can still be fit in.


Through doing planking she should be able to work on the next stage of the core strength and stability test by lifting one arm up gradually.


She can substitute not climbing to review previous videos with as well as comparing her performance, to the videos with other climbers


She has been working on planking on a daily basis which has helped her climbing performance –coach

Week 3/4Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength

Date: 4/2/15 Date: 4/2/15

Time: 18:15 Time: 18:15







Coaches Review: Her personal climbing has been affected due to working more , to prevent her climbing practise this week for planning different routes on unseen climbs. This can be helped by the change of routes set this week.

Coaches Review: Her personal climbing has been affected due to working more , to prevent her climbing practise this week. But she is looking back at videos and analysing performance. She is still able to plank on a daily basis even through her time on the wall has lacked.


Working in a different environment – big rock Milton Keynes Route planning improved and a change of scenery helped this was breaking the climb down further. Wants to be able to identify the specific moves- shapes on the wall. Wall looking at the difficulties when on the wall. Using video analysis more


Warmed up – platoued then performance decreased. The goal setting that she had too do a 6b helped with performance. Confidence . Due to the fear she got tired and gave up – overloaded.


Progress is very minor this week due to the increased number of working hours at the centre. Although she has still been able to watch others climb routes ,to show her alternative ways of completing climbs .


Progress is very minor this week due to the increased number of working hours at the centre. Has been planking daily to ensure that improvements have been made when holding planking position.


The next session is based on progression from this week as she has not been able to do much climbing. So next weeks plans depend on her free time, but have organised two training days in case one can not be done.


The next session is progression due to this weeks lack of training. I will go over the green 6b climb on panel 15 to see the improvement or lack of improvement.


Yes, because of her lack of training from working allot this week and not having much free time to climb. I have given Nez her videos to go over at home and have guidance from her coach


Yes, due to her long working hours this week that aHas affected her training. Although she has still been planking daily which can be done anywhere I have seen an improvement in the time she can hold this position which is good. And has begun to work on the next stage of the core strength and stability test.

Week 4/4Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength

Date: 15/2/15 Date: 15/2/15

Time: 13:12 Time: 14:02





Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation of climbing I this wall

Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation of climbing I this wall.

Coaches Review: Believes that there has been a minor improvement Coaches Review: She is beginning to do bigger rock over’s which is a big improvement from the initial testing in week 1 but still cannot reach her goal of the green 6b on panel 15.


I feel I have improved after doing some outdoor climbing at the weekend. Am I on track to complete my aim? Is my work life taking over my training and climbing practice.


I feel as though my confidence has boosted and I climbed outside for the first time last weekend, but did not push my self hard enough. I feel that I am working towards my man going, I am queering if I will be able to obtain my goal in only 8 weeks.


Small progress has been made, but further improvement needs to be done to get her up to standard to reach her goal.


Progress has been made slightly as I am leading more due to my core strength being stronger so I am able to maintain climbing for longer periods of time doing more climbs in a time frame, but still not at the level I want to be.


I think that Nez should work more on the wall to gain some more video evidence, there has been a new route set at the climbing wall. This will help with the route planning as there are new climbs to explore.


I think that Nez should work more on the wall to gain some more video evidence, there has been a new route set at the climbing wall. This will help with the core strength as there are new climbs to explore and practise rock over's even on juggy holds that I can skip one hold and reach further.


Issues with her knee which has held her back, for this week of training.


No

Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 1/2Trait: Route planning

Test Name: Climbing time trials

Standardised Test: No Normative Data: Yes

If Not A Standardised Test Detail Method Here:

• The athlete picks a wall that is of a 6a or above grade (elite performance level) that they have never done before.

• The athlete then climbs up the wall in the quickest time that they can on a top rope, there is no time limit but should be fast as it is a speed test.

• This is repeated by 5-10 other climbers of the same performance level.• The time s are recorded and put in order from fastest to slowest AOAC In

Shoreham, doing panel 7 yellow 6a • For this trial I used AOAC in Shoreham as the location of my testing, the climb

we chose was to do the time trials was the yellow 6a on panel 7.

Test Result 1: 1 min 35 seconds Test Result 1 Rating: 2nd

Test Result 2: 1 min 47 seconds Test Result 2 Rating: 3rd

Test Result 3: 1 min 34.16 seconds Test Result 3 Rating: 1st

Best Result: 1 min 34.16 seconds

Best Result Rating: Out of the 10 participants who were re tested, Nez came 6th. This shows an improvement as she came 8th in the initial testing as has now moved up two places

Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 2/2

Trait: Core strength

Test Name: Core muscle strength and stability test

Standardised Test:

Yes Normative Data: No

If Not A Standardised Test Detail Method Here:

• http://www.brianmac.co.uk/coretest.htm

Test Result 1: 42.7 seconds Test Result 1 Rating: 2nd

Test Result 2: 45.1 seconds Test Result 2 Rating: 1st

Test Result 3: 36.2 seconds Test Result 3 Rating: 3rd

Best Result: 45.1 seconds

Best Result Rating:

1st

http://www.brianmac.co.uk/coretest.htm

Describe whether the tests show that progress is being made as planned?

• Progression has been made, through having a weakened sense of fear from climbing more. But there is still long way to go, to reach her goal and be able to get out of this plateoued phase, so that she can become a 6b climber. I think that the next weeks will be spent working on specific moves and sequencing of climbing. This can be done by looking back over her videos and seeing the specific points of weakness. Her coach can also help her with this, when climbing at other climbing centres and gradually reaching small steps before she is able to achieve her goal. I believe the training we are doing currently is helping but further training should be put in place. I am concerned on the recent injury that has developed at her knee that could prevent further training.

Does the mid point review show that weeks 5-8 need to be adapted?

Describe How you will adapt your sessions?There has been a small improvement in Nez’s performance which is to be expected,

due to the high goal that is set for her performance. I believe the daily planking is helping her core strength, which is good as well as the lead training. But in weeks 5- 8 there should be further work on the rock over's, so that she can builds this up to reaching her goal. I also think that route planning can be improved by changing the scenery and working on other walls, which she has done in weeks 4 when going to white spider and Withdean to climb, this has made Nez look at her performance differently and can relate the practise she did at the two different centres due to her having a confidence boost from climbing elsewhere. She can then apply what she learnt to AOAC, as the climbs are harder then most centres. I will adapt some of the progression plans to overload, because of the high goal she needs to work intensely on both aspects of weakness to reach this. I also need to adapt her plan from her work life as this seems to be taking over recently, I need to make sure I work around this, through looking back at her videos and making strategies for improvement to compensate for the lack of climbing she will be doing.

week 1-4 review

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