bethanysbunnies.files.wordpress.com · web view2019-08-19 · you get what you pay for! if you...

Rabbit Care and info SheetA detailed Bulletin of information on caring for your rabbit

I am not a vet. I do not know the answer to every rabbit problem, but I have been raising rabbits for over 18 years and that has taught me a lot. Not everyone who raises rabbits agrees 100% of the time and there are a lot of differing opinions. Always do research for yourself and remember to always do what is ethically right for your rabbit. When you adopt a pet, it is important to be responsible for its care and well-being. Based off of my experience, I have compiled an outline of some of the things you may need to know in order to provide a good life for your rabbit.

Is a rabbit the right pet for me? Rabbits typically live 8+ years. Consider the future of your rabbit. Are you

committed to finding pet friendly housing? If kids are involved, is the family committed to long-term care even once the kids loose interest? No pet should suffer or become homeless because the fun wears off. You wouldn’t consider adopting a child without plans for their future so please don’t adopt a pet without proper plans for their future either.

Rabbits need considerable space. Even the smallest rabbits are larger than a guinea pig. They are not ok in a small cage. Most cages found at pet stores are incredibly inadequate even if marketed for rabbits. Take a look at a cage, imagine an animal about the size of a toy dog and tell me if that animal would be comfortable in that space all day, every day.

Rabbits are smart and energetic. They need space and toys. Without enough daily interaction and toys and enrichment, a rabbit can become aggressive, destructive or depressed just like other pets. Think of a rabbit as you would think of committing to a cat or dog. Are your living situation and time commitment appropriate for this type of pet?

Rabbits can be a cuddle buddy, your best friend, even a family member. If you treat them with respect and care, and as a companion with their own personality and preferences, you will get their love in return.

Once you have decided to commit to a pet rabbit, here are some things to keep in mind.

o You get what you pay for! If you pay for a $5-15 rabbit, you are likely to get little or no guidance and a bunny that may be sick, way too young or may get much larger than you expect. Paying more for a rabbit likely comes with quality health and breeding and a life-long support system. If you aren’t committed to the cost then please don’t commit to a pet.

o “Rescuing” a pet from a pet store or breeder that isn’t taking good care of their animals, isn’t actually rescuing! I hate to break it to you

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but that just encourages the breeder or pet store to put another poor animal in its place just to make you feel better that you “rescued”. Please consider adopting from rescue organizations or trusted small-scale breeders.

Your rabbit’s first week at home: A change in situation can be a hard transition.

Here are some things you can do to help your rabbit settle in to its new home:

As tempting as it may be to play and bond with bunny as soon as he gets home, it is best to give your rabbit plenty of time to settle in. For the first day, do not handle more than necessary and be sure to provide bunny with plenty of places to hide and a calm, quiet room.

If the breeder gave you a bag of transition food (if not then ask them for it), you should use that food to slowly transition to their new food. Start by only feeding the transition food the first day and slowly adding in the new food a little more every day until they are only eating their new feed. This will help keep bunny from getting diarrhea which is very dangerous for rabbits. Also, don’t feed them treats at this time and when you do introduce treats, do it a little at a time.

Housing: A rabbit’s cage is where it will spend much of its time especially while you are away. A cage should have suitable space for bunny to play and move and should be tailored to its potty skills. Rabbits are not fond of heights, so a cage should use horizontal space over vertical space. Rabbits can be housed outdoors or in but if housed outdoors, special care must be taken that the cage provides adequate safety from the elements and predators.

Here are the cage requirements for a rabbit:

Solid floor or small (1/2”) galvanized mesh floor with solid parts for resting feet. Shelter from the elements (if housing outside) and to provide a safe place to hide

(whether housing inside or outside). Rabbits are prey animals and will be stressed if not given a hiding space. This is important! Give your rabbit a place to hide. Cardboard boxes work great for indoors plus provide enrichment.

I recommend an absolute minimum of 8 square feet (2’x4’) for the smallest breeds. Bigger is always better! A bored rabbit is a destructive rabbit that will either cause itself harm or drive you nuts.

Mesh floors are best for long hair breeds or any rabbit that lacks litter training as it allows the poo to fall. A solid floor with bedding will quickly become soiled and sitting waste can cause urinary tract infection or urine scald. Mesh is not generally harmful to rabbits and keeps the cage much more sanitary. Rabbits do need at least some solid flooring for resting their feet.

If you decide to build or commission a wood hutch, be sure to use untreated, unpainted (at least on the inside) wood. Unfortunately, it won’t last as long but treated or painted wood is toxic and dangerous when rabbits chew on it.

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Store bought hutches may be tempting because of the price but be aware of some of the cons. These hutches are not predator proof and do not hold up to severe weather. Off the ground hutches tend to be too small. Hutches with a ground level do not typically come with mesh on the bottom to keep bunny from digging out or other animals from digging in. These hutches with a ground pen must be moved frequently to prevent waste build up, and to keep them from catching a number of diseases that they can get from living on the same patch of ground for too long.

Outdoor hutches/cages or even pens for play time, must have constant shade as rabbits are very sensitive to heat. These cages must also have adequate warmth during the winter. During the hot months, frozen soda bottles (filled 2/3rds with water), large tiles to lay on and frozen fruits can be fun ways to keep bunny cool. During the cold months, socks filled with rice can be heated in the microwave for a couple of minutes, heat lamps can be placed in their cage (out of reach and really well attached), and lots of straw or hay can be used to fill the nest box or sheltered area to provide warmth.

Outdoor hutches or pens that have access to the grass, must be moved frequently unless they are completely dirt! Not only will rabbits dig out but certain parasites lay eggs in grass where they see rabbits hanging out.

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Bottom cage would be ok for a very small rabbit. Top cage would not be appropreate for any adult rabbit.

Say YES to these cages:

From top left: 30”+ Wire mesh cage with urine guard

and tray. Suggested Klubertanz Equipment Co. or KW Cages. Must have resting mats.

Homey Pet 43” stackable dog crate. Can be purchased on Amazon. Must have resting mats. *Suggested cage choice for 1 rabbit!

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MidWest Wabbitat cage with nest box (or similarly sized cage). Small but ok. Litter box recommended. Do not fill cage with litter.

Extra-large dog kennel. Heavy duty dog exercise pen with homemade plywood and linoleum floor for easy

clean-up and good traction. *Suggested cage choice for 1-2 rabbits!

Say NO to these cages:

Kaytee- Small animal cage Tractor Supply- Rabbit cage

Prevue Small Animal Home

* All of these cages are much too small and should never be purchased for a rabbit. The only time one of these cages would be suitable is as a home base (food/water/potty station) for

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a fully free-roaming rabbit or as a home base for a rabbit with a large X-pen attached.

Ware Milling Wabbitat 24”

Say YES to these hutches:

*Homemade or commissioned. Store-bought large hutch

Say NO to these hutches:

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* Way too small!!!Food: Rabbits are Herbivores, mostly feeding on soft grasses. Instead of having multiple-chambered stomachs (like cow’s have) to help process plant matter, rabbits choose to digest the food twice to maximize nutrient intake. Rabbits produce a soft clump of poo called Cecotropes or Night droppings which they immediately ingest and re-digest so you will rarely see them. If you see clumps of this extra sticky poo then your feed probably has too much protein.

Here is what you will need to provide daily:

Hay- A constant supply of high-quality hay is a must for proper digestion! The stuff fed to livestock can be moldy or contain bad bacteria that can harm your rabbit. Hay should be fresh and clean. Timothy is the best option. Alfalfa can be fed occasionally but is too sweet to be fed normally. Straw makes good bedding but is not edible.

Pellets- Provide a daily supply of basic rabbit food pellets without a lot of additives. 16 % protein is preferable. Some common brands are Mana Pro, Purina and Nutrena. Feed stores like Tractor Supply or your local Feed and Seed are good places to buy for an affordable price. Oxbow and Mazuri are also good brands that sell in smaller amounts.

Mineral block- A mineral wheel can be hung in a cage and will last quite a while. This provides extra minerals that the rabbits may not get in their feed. They are ok to use but not necessary and certainly do not need to be provided all the time.

Chews: These can be toys, specially made for rabbits to chew on or clean, safe wood (like Willow or Apple or Maple) from your yard. Rabbits are Lagomorphs, not rodents but they still have continually growing incisors.

Here is what you can also feed your rabbit:

Fresh Greens: Kale, Turnip/Mustard greens, Leafy lettuce Veggies: Parsley, Cilantro, Plantain, Carrot, Celery, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Zucchini

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Small amounts of fruits: Apple, Grape, Banana, Strawberry, Blueberry

If you decide to feed fresh veggies/greens, be sure to start with only a little bit of it per day for a month so that their digestive system can get use to it. Rabbits will eagerly take fresh greens, and if they are not use to getting fresh greens yet, it can make them very ill. It is advised to wait until the rabbit is at least 3 months of age before introducing them to fresh fruits.

Here is what you should avoid:

Gassy foods like beans, cabbage and dairy Toxic foods like green or growing potatoes and rotting or moldy foods Processed foods like bread, chips, and cereal Sugary foods Human foods like chocolate and anything with alcohol Foods containing meat product of any type Foods with little nutritional value such as Iceberg lettuce

*Contrary to popular belief, spaying or neutering your rabbit will not greatly increase their chances of being overweight.

Toys: Rabbits are smarter than you may realize. They need enrichment (toys and food treats) to keep them entertained. Make sure to take out enrichments after a couple of hours so that next time you use that toy it is still novel.

Here are a few ideas:

Toilet paper tubes stuffed with hay and a few food treats. Crumpled brown packing paper with treats hidden inside. Fresh greens hung around the cage with clothes pins. Hard-plastic cat jingle balls. Puzzle boards with food treats. Fun smells on crumpled paper. Safe options are a couple drops of peppermint

oil or banana extract New obstacles in their cage

* Getting your rabbit fixed will decrease their stress and anxiety and make them less likely to chew on or destroy things you don’t want them to.

Basic care: Just like other animals, rabbits need routine care.

Here are some of the things you will need to do for your bunny:

Nail trimming- Regular nail trimming is important. Use cat or small animal nail clippers to trim back nails to right before the quick (the blood vessel in the nails). This will take practice for you and bunny and you may need help. If your rabbit

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struggles during the manicure, either have your helper cover the rabbit’s eyes or use a loose sheet to wrap the rabbit up, being sure not to cover it’s nose too tightly. If you accidentally hit the quick, it’s OK! Just like pulling a hang-nail, it isn’t fun, but it will pass. You can put QuickStop or cornstarch on the nail to almost immediately stop the bleeding, or if neither of those are available put pressure on it using a paper towel and it will stop in a few minutes. It is not Ok to ignore their nails as long nail can curl and cause the rabbit pain.

Grooming- Rabbits can’t vomit so they can not “throw up” a hair ball. Excess hair should be brushed to avoid them ingesting too much. Outdoor rabbits typically molt (shed all at once) twice a year. In spring they molt their winter coat for a thinner, courser summer coat. In Fall they molt their summer coat for a warm, thick winter coat. Indoor rabbits don’t have seasonal cues, so their shedding can be irregular.

Anal scent glands- Not pleasant to think about but just like most other animals including dogs, rabbits have a pair of scent glands on either side of their genitals. Most rabbits clean this themselves but on occasion these can become blocked by dried build-up and must be manually cleaned. This can be done with a q-tip or paper towel. Older rabbits, rabbits kept in unsanitary conditions and fuzzy rabbit breeds are most prone to this as they have a harder time cleaning themselves.

Physical checks- It is always a good idea to know what is normal for your rabbit, so you know when something is not normal. If you feel or see anything out of the ordinary, please contact your vet or a rabbit professional.

o Rabbits, like cats and dogs, can get ear mites if they have access to the outside. The evidence will be a crustiness inside the ear canal caused when ear mites invade. Simply request ear mite treatment from the vet or for a cheaper option, drizzle olive oil in the ear every day, covering the infested region. Continue this until the mites have disappeared.

o Some rabbit breeds can get flees if they come in contact with them. Revolution for kittens can be used for rabbits but if uncertain, always check with a veterinarian.

o Rabbit urine can vary in color, so it is good to know your rabbit pee, so you know when something is out of the ordinary. It can be clear with a white tint all the way to a rust brown. Chunky or bright, blood red urine should be brought to a vet’s attention immediately.

Medical care- Most medical problems can be avoided by regular care, a proper diet and a clean cage. Although rabbits do not require vaccinations, it is always a good idea to have an idea of where you would take your rabbit in the event of a medical emergency. Find a vet that will see exotics and keep their information on hand. By adopting any pet, you are committing to a certain level of care. It is understandable that costly vet visits are not ideal, but within reason, your rabbit deserves to be properly cared for. If possible vet fees are a concern then consider setting aside a small savings for the potentiality. Remember that rabbits are prey animals in the wild, so they do not show sickness or injury unless it is serious.

If you are near Memphis, TN, you can visit Dr. Pope at All Creatures Pet Hospital or Dr. McGee at Collierville Animal Clinic.

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* Fixing a rabbit decreases their chances of getting reproductive cancers as well as decreases and often completely stops many negative behaviors that could cause injury to your rabbit.

Litter training: Rabbits do not take to litter training as naturally as cats. They can learn but it takes patience and training and even then, they may not use it 100%. Litter boxes do provide the advantage of not having to clean an entire cage quite as often and this can save a lot of time and work. Hay and cedar should NEVER be used as litter. Hay does not absorb and cedar is toxic.

Avoid filling a cage with litter like you would with a

Here are some ideas that will help you get started:

Use a large pan. Corner litter boxes that are sold for small animals like rabbits are ok, but it is hard for a bunny to get all the poo in a small space. Try using a litter box that is large enough for bunny to get its whole body into.

A litter box with a grate over it can help minimize sitting directly in the litter box and will help keep your rabbit cleaner. This is especially great for longer hair breeds. If your litter box does not come with a grate, you can easily make one using ½” wire mesh with the sides folded under, egg crating found at the hardware store, or even a cooling rack from the kitchen section (as long as the spaces are big enough).

Observe which corner your rabbit normally goes potty in and put the litter box there.

Sweep or scoop any waste that falls outside of the litter box and dump it in the litter box, so bunny understands that that is where poo goes.

Keep the cage clean of any urine or soft items that bunny may pee on. Never use Cedar shavings for any small animal. Cedar releases chemicals

that give it it’s strong scent, but these chemicals are toxic if inhaled over long periods. Pine shaving are also not ideal for the same reason. Paper or Aspen bedding offer safe options for the main portion of the cage. For the litter box, compressed pine pellets (these are not as “dusty” as pine shavings) work very well to reduce odor and absorb urine.

Cat litter is not a good option because clay (or even walnut or specialty litters) is something rabbits prefer to dig in or eat as opposed to potty in. Eating it is especially hazardous, because most of these substances would cause severe intestinal blockage or worse.

Hay is food not bedding. Hay and straw do not absorb and should not be used to line a cage.

*Potty habits greatly improve in a fixed rabbit. Rabbits will pee and poo outside of the litter box to mark the area as their own when they are unaltered.

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Rabbit proofing your house: Rabbits are kind of like toddlers. They are curious, and they like to test things with their mouths.

Here are some things you need to be aware of:

Plants- Be very careful to keep houseplants out of reach of bunny. Some of them can be very toxic. For example, Poinsettias are very toxic to rabbits (and cats) so pet owners should avoid having them in the house.

Cords- Always cover cords or keep them out of reach. They are dangerous, and your rabbit is likely to chew on them if they have access to them. Slipping cords and wire through some PVC pipe works well in the event cords must stay where they are, as PVC is very difficult for the rabbit to chew through. Cord covers can also be purchased very inexpensively at any hardware store.

Always keep your floor clear of anything that a rabbit could get their leg caught on. Major spinal injuries can occur if a rabbit gets caught by the leg and panics. A broken spine is almost always fatal.

Behavior: Rabbit behavior will vary between every individual rabbit, because each rabbit has their own personality. However, there are behaviors that show up in all rabbits on average (meaning most rabbits have certain similar behaviors).

Just like humans, rabbits go through puberty. During this time (~4-5months) your rabbit is likely to be moody and aggressive about things that they may have loved before, such as being picked up and petted. During this teen stage your rabbit’s hormones are very unbalanced, and just like a moody human teen, they can have mood swings. This is an indicator that it is time to look at getting your rabbit fixed. Don’t get your feelings hurt if your rabbit acts like it doesn’t like you during this period

Since your rabbit cannot speak, you will need to learn some basic bunny body language. Your rabbit’s body language, aided with some noise on occasion, will tell you everything about your rabbit if you know what it means. Ears up can be curious or scared (listening for sounds). Ears down can be fear or can be relaxed. So just because their ears are up or down does not necessarily indicate if they are scared or not.

It is important to learn signs of stress. Introduction to a new pet, lots of people especially kids in the house, severe thunderstorms and fireworks are all reasons a rabbit could become extremely stressed. A stressed rabbit may shake, loose tufts of fur, act different than normal, become aggressive or even stop eating, drinking and moving like normal. Immune stress can cause diarrhea and should be treated immediately. Independence Day and New Years Eve can be exceptionally stressful. Make sure your rabbit feels protected and give them lots of places to hide. Cover their cage in blankets (with plenty room for air flow). Bring them inside if they are outside. Place their cage in a room with no windows and less noise such as a bathroom. Provide them safe, calming herbs like lavender or mint.

When you first get your rabbit it will most likely show a lot of fear from being in a new place. A fearful rabbit will run and hide when not being held, and pant, shake, have its ears pinned back, and its eyes bulged out when being held. If holding a scared

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rabbit the rabbit might also nip, kick, and squirm to get away. After a while your rabbit will calm down and realize it doesn’t have to be afraid.

A rabbit can be aggressive for various reasons. The major reason being a territorial/hormonal rabbit. If your rabbit is not fixed, then it is time to schedule your appointment right away. The way a rabbit shows aggression is mostly in its stance. An angry rabbit will have its chest lower to the ground and its rear picked up higher. It will also hold its tail up a little higher, and will often (but not always) have its ears pinned to its back. An angry rabbit will likely grunt and growl at whomever or whatever is making it angry. If the source of anger stays too long or gets closer the rabbit will lunge and/or box it. When a rabbit boxes something it swipes really fast and hard in order to scratch and injure whatever it is attacking.

Happy rabbits are the best rabbits. When a rabbit is happy it will show you in various ways. The first signs of happiness are binkies, zoomies and flops. A binkie is when your rabbit will suddenly jump in the air and twist its body. Sometimes a rabbit will do a partial binkie where it just pops its front legs up and twitch its head. Zoomies are when your rabbit runs full speed through its space, and is often accompanied with full air binkies. Another sign of a happy rabbit is the bunny flop. The bunny flop is when your rabbit is so content with life that it literally throws itself to the ground and is flopped on its side. Now believe it or not, rabbits will purr. A rabbit purr is very different from a cat’s purr, as it is made with the rabbit’s teeth not vocal cords like a cat. The purr is a very soft buzzing that is made by the rabbit rapidly rubbing its teeth together. The purr is so softly noised though, that you are more likely to feel them purr than hear it.

The easiest way to bond with your rabbit is just spending time with them. Be confident without being forceful. Sit on the floor or couch with them and let them set the pace. Do short amounts every day. I like to watch a TV show while bonding with a new rabbit. It keeps things chill and gives me a good stopping point for the day. Never feel bad about picking up your rabbit. Most rabbits wiggle or try to escape when being picked up. Sometimes rabbits need to know that you are the boss of the house.

Bonding: Rabbits can enjoy the company of another rabbit, but it is not necessary. Some rabbits love having a friend while others just aren’t good for bonding. Starting young always helps.

Here are a few things to consider if you are thinking about bonding rabbits:

ALWAYS quarantine new rabbits joining your pet family. Even a rabbit that appears healthy may be masking sickness. 4-6 weeks is a good quarantine period to determine that the new rabbit is not carrying an illness.

I highly recommend fixing both rabbits whether they are boys or girls. Un-altered male pairs may try mounting each other and that can cause a fight. Un-altered female pairs are typically territorial and will harm each other. Un-altered male/female pairs are an irresponsible choice as mating will occur, and leaving the pair together may result in lots of stress to the pregnant female as the male will harass her and often harm the kits (newborn bunnies). Also, a female can get pregnant just as soon as she delivers her kits (or sooner in some cases) causing a

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stressful cycle for the female. Even rabbit experts sometimes get gender wrong, so it is a good idea to fix both rabbits as early as possible to avoid accidental litters.

If the rabbits are a boy and a girl, give it at least 6 weeks before you let them be in the same cage. You can use that time to keep their cages next to each other, so they can get to know each other. But boys are still virile for several weeks after the neuter. For same gender pairs, give them at least 2 weeks to let the surgery heal and the hormones to leave their system.

Make sure when you finally do introduce them, that they have lots of room, so they don't feel cornered by the other. And make sure it is a new location for both rabbits so neither one feels territorial.

Let them bond for an hour or so the first day and then increase that time by about 30 minutes every day until they can comfortably spend the whole day together. Give them toys or things to distract them while bonding so they don't just focus on their new friend.

You will probably still see your rabbits mount each other even if they are a fixed, same-sex pair. Mounting is their way of showing dominance.

Be patient with your rabbits but understand that not every rabbit wants a friend and sometimes they are picky about who they like and they may bond better with one rabbit than another.

Getting your rabbit fixed: Not only will it reduce spraying, odor, and pooping outside the litter box in males but it often helps with behavioral problems such as mounting behavior, anxiousness and trying to escape to get to females. In females it will reduce the chance of reproductive cancers and tumors, and it can also reduce aggression and moodiness that comes from being “broody” and territorial. Getting your rabbit fix can make them happier and healthier and may increase their lifespan. We have had so many rabbits brought to us to rehome simply because of behaviors that would have been easily fixed by getting the rabbit altered. A fixed rabbit will be calmer and easier to hold, less likely to nip, scratch and chew, have better potty skills and over all better behavior. Even if housing a rabbit by itself, please do the right thing for your pet rabbit and get them fixed!

Here are some tips if you are planning to get your rabbit altered:

Go to a local Spay and Neuter center. Not only do they offer the best prices, but they do the procedure every day, so they know what they are doing. In Memphis, you can find the most affordable prices at Spay Memphis but be sure to make your appointment early as they do book up quickly.

If they tell you to withhold food or water, DO NOT DO IT! Unlike cats and dogs, rabbits cannot vomit. Continue to give them food like normal and even provide fresh hay that they can eat as soon as they wake up.

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Remember that males can still produce sperm for up to 6 weeks after getting neutered so keep them away from any un-altered females.

As with any surgery, there are risks. If you are concerned about the risks then do some research first but don’t let a small number of bad experiences, keep you from also considering the huge number of benefits and good experiences.

Rehoming: It is a sad, but true, fact that there may be a reason why you may one day need to rehome your rabbit. Allergies, new living situation, or work situation are reasons why many people may need to rehome a pet. Rehoming a pet just because it is old or sick is not okay because you have a responsibility to that animal.

Here is what you can do to ensure that your rabbit goes to a good home:

Do NOT ever offer a rabbit for free. A reasonable rehoming fee ($10-$20 or more if rehoming with cage and supplies) is perfectly acceptable. Free rabbits are often used for snake food, human food, for dog training (Yes! People may take your free rabbit and use it to teach their dog to hunt) or they go to a neglectful home.

Please properly screen new homes. Unfortunately, many rabbits get picked up on a whim by someone who sees pets as an “impulse buy” and has not done their research. There are people that think housing a rabbit in a guinea pig cage or a dark dog carrier, or feeding them nothing but carrots and iceberg lettuce is an okay thing. Always ask lots of questions of any potential adopters, and make sure the new cage and supplies are suitable, and that they know how to care for a rabbit.

Try contacting the breeder. Most of the time the breeder is the best person to find a home for your rabbit and if they have room, will often take rabbits back. We care about what happens to our bunnies in the future and are happy to help!

Utilize social media sites and rabbit related pages or groups. Facebook has groups such as Tennessee Rabbits + or exotic pet pages where you can connect with other rabbit/exotic pet people to look for a home. (*note that Facebook does not allow animal sales. This does not mean that you cannot spread the word)

A picture is worth a thousand words! Good quality photos of your rabbit will help people fall in love with bunny. Pets with a good photo are much more likely to find a home.

Use a detailed (and truthful) description in an ad. You are not doing your rabbit any favors in hiding any bad habits or health problems. In the end, if the new family is not aware of any problems, the situation may not work out.

Make sure that you home your rabbit to a responsible adult. Although rabbits can make excellent pets for kids, the adult is the one who is ultimately responsible.

Be patient! It won’t happen overnight.

Breeding: Many people get a pet and consider breeding their pet. Everyone thinks their pet is the best and you probably love your rabbit but that is not a reason to breed them. Breeding an animal should never be done just for the sake of

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“having fun” or doing it for the “experience” Breeding should be done with a specific goal in mind and a firm understanding of how genetics work into all of it.

Here are some things to consider when thinking about breeding:

All rabbits are not created equal. Even within a single litter, some will be of higher genetic quality than others. The same way people pass on their bad eyesight or bad teeth to their kids, rabbits will pass on their bad traits. Rabbits with poor genetic quality will produce offspring with undesirable traits. If you bought your rabbit as a pet (especially without a pedigree to tell you family history of your rabbit), then it is likely only pet quality. If you decide to breed, it is important to invest in rabbits that will produce healthy rabbits with good physical and behavioral traits.

Breeding may change your pet’s behavior. Once male rabbits get a taste of “making bunny love”, they are much more likely to practice those behaviors on anything else including your cat/dog/child/foot. Females may become territorial and moody.

Baby bunnies (called kits) are very fragile and for the first few weeks of life, there is a LOT that can happen. Unless you are ready to deal with the fact that it isn’t likely that they will all live, then this isn’t for you.

Male and Female rabbits that are able to breed, should NEVER be housed together for more than a couple of days (or even a few minutes in some cases). A female can become pregnant even while they are pregnant and that typically either causes her to naturally abort the first litter or will cause complications later on. They will need separate cages and any kits that are not rehomed right away will need separate cages for at least separating male and female siblings. A mom with babies needs considerable space.

Once babies are about 8 weeks old, they need to be rehomed. This process is not as easy as it sounds and can lead to bunnies being placed with families that have not done proper research and are not prepared for proper care. It takes a lot of time and effort and sometimes turning people down to make sure bunnies make it to good homes.

Connecting with a support group: Keep in touch with the breeder or foster who your rabbit came from. They can

often answer questions and can be a wealth of knowledge. If they have a Facebook Page (ours is @bethanysbunnies) then feel free to like and follow them. Reviews are always appreciated!

Join a group! Such as “DIY for Rabbits”, “Show off your Buns”, “Rabbits in Tennessee and USA”

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*I am not responsible for anything that happens to your rabbit while following these suggestions. Please do your own research and only use this as a guideline.

Bethany’s Bunnieswww.bethanysbunnies.wordpress.com

[email protected]

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