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Page 1: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

0

Report onReport onReport onReport on

Taken Taken Taken Taken

(WEAVING UNIT)(WEAVING UNIT)(WEAVING UNIT)(WEAVING UNIT)

RAKHOLI, SAYLI, SILVASSA

BY

Mr. Bultan Sarkar

Govt. College of Engineering & Textile Technology,

Berhampore (W.B.)

Page 2: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

1

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTACKNOWLEDGEMENTACKNOWLEDGEMENTACKNOWLEDGEMENT

As per course schedule, I have taken Industrial Training at ALOK

INDUSTRIES LIMITED, SILVASSA from 29.06.2010 to 26.07.2010.The

experience of 28 days was both challenging and immensely valuable.

This tanning had given me the opportunity to learn the entire

operational activities of mills. The practical knowledge, which we have

acquired over the period, will definitely be beneficial to our future as a

Textile Engineer.

At first I am highly thankful to Mr. R.B Mahapatra(Unit Head) for

allowing me undergo the training at the mill. Then I am thankful to Mr.

Rinku Nath(HR Manager), Mr. Dilip Panigrahi and all the H.O.D

and supervisors including employees of mill for their kind co-operation

during the course.

At the end I am especially grateful to Mr. Debraj Sarkar (T.P.O) for

arranging the training for me and provided me with the required

Place: Silvassa From Date: 26.07.2010

Mr. Bultan Sarkar

Page 3: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

2

SR NO. SUBJECT PAGE

1 COMPANY PROFILE 1-2

2 RAW MATERIALS 3-7

3 QUALITY ASSURANCE 8-16

4 P.P.C 17-19

5 WEAVING PREPARATORY 20-34

6 WEAVING 35-49

7 INSPECTION & PACKING 50-55

8 KNITTING 56-60

9 CP/POY 61-68

10 TEXTURISING 69-74

Page 4: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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ALOK INDUSTRIES LIMITED

ALOK was established in 1986 as apvt. Ltd. company with 1st

polyester

texturising plant being set up in1989. Over the years it has Expanded

into weaving, knitting, processing home textiles and garments. And to

insure q uality and cost, efficiencies it has integrated backward into

cotton spinning and manufacturing of POY through CP route Alok also

provided embroidered products through Grabal alok implex Ltd.

Alok has recently entered the domestic retail segment through a wholly

owned subsidiary Alok retail India Ltd, with a chain of stores named

H&A that offers garments and home textiles at attractive prices.

LOCATION:

Survey no: 17/5/1 & 521/1

Village Rakholi, Sayali

Silvassa: Khanvel road

Silvassa: 396230

(D&N.H) India.

Busines activities:

Alok is a well established, profit making, consistently dividend paying

professionally managed textile company. The company has intergrated

manufacturing facilities for:

• Home textiles

• Apparel fabrics

• Texturising

Page 5: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

4

The vertically integrated operation and flexibility to produce in cotton/

polyester/ viscose and blend in various counts has enabled the

customers and thus provide integrated textile solutions.

The total value addition chain in textile and Alok’s presence in the chain

is indicated below:

• Fibres

• Spinning

• Weaving/ knitting

• Processing

• Garments/Home textiles/ Madeup

• Retailing

I.M.S policy

WE, AT ALOK INDUSTIES LIMITED ARE COMMITTEDTOWARDS-

1. Serving our customer to their satisfaction by efficiency reliable

supply of products at most competitive rises and meeting social

objectives and other specified requirement through INTEGRATED

MANAGEMENT SYSTEM.

2. Constantly improving product quality, environment, performance

work environment and services by up- gradation of skill,

knowledge and technology through employee education and

involvement.

3. Ensuring a healthy and safe environmental in and around our

manufacturing plants complying with all applicable legal and

other requirement related to safety, health, environment, social

and quality aspect by setting and reviewing quality, environment,

health, and safety objectives towards continual improvement.

Page 6: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

5

4. Enhancing corporate social responsibility by making earnest

endeavors to prevent environment pollution, reduce

occupational, health hazard minimize waste and optimize useof

natural resources.

RRRRAW MATERIALSAW MATERIALSAW MATERIALSAW MATERIALS

• Two types of raw materials means yarns are consumed by the

industry these are (a)-Grey Yarn

(b)-Dyed yarn

• Count range of yarns 6ˢ Ne to 120ˢ Ne

Among these open end yarn 6ˢ-20ˢ Ne ,

Carded yarn up to 30ˢ Ne,

Combed yarn 30ˢ to 120ˢ Ne,

Compact yarn 30ˢ to 60ˢ Ne,

Double yarn range 2/6 to 2/20 & various count of PC,CVC are used

as raw materials.

• Alok consumed 80% raw materials from his own spinning mill &

20% raw materials from other industry (Near Industries,

Vardhman Industries, Ravali Spinning Ltd,Trident, Dhanlaxmi,

Vasundhara Cotton mills, Sandhya Spinning Mills Abhishek

Industries Limited,Vasundhara Cotton mills Pvt.Ltd, Kallam

Spinning Mills etc.).

• Daily consumption of raw material is 120 ton.

• Total capacity of this godown is 1200-1400 tons

• Raw materials are stored in godown as Cone & Chesse in carton or

plate according to their Count wise.

• No of worker in this godown is 45.

Page 7: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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• The method of raw materials proceeds is:

Material verified at gate

Give massage to operation

Verified whether the order is given or not

Then it enter

Then check the data

Then sample goes to QA to check the quality

Then unload

Stocked

Distribute to dept.

• Some samples which is used

by Alok Industries Ltd.are given bellow:

• Sample-1(Dyed material)

� Alok Industries Ltd.(Spinning

Div.)

� Date: 28.06.2010

Page 8: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

7

� Party: Saha Mahash Kumar

Mohanlal & Co.

� Count: CTN 40 COMB COMP

WVG Midnight

� Shade: Midnight

� Shade No: YX048717

� SORT:

AW00666666XWYDNF

� SO No: 3062078182

� PO No: 109410078882

� LOT No: YD1000334446

� STPO: 5100099317 WVG

RW STORE

� No of cone: 12

� Gross weight: 15.82 kg

� Net weight: 15.82 kg

� Sap batch: 3011375748

� Carton no: VY1000010352

• Sample-2(Grey materrial)

� Alok Industries Ltd(Spinning

Div.) Unit-2

� Packing slip

� 100% Cotton Combed yarn

� CTN 64 Comb Comp ROCOS

ORG WVG

� Count: Y00530

� Box: PO10039476

� No of cone: 160

� LOT No: 2LC100026B

� Grade: A

� Gross weight: 429.000 kg

Page 9: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

8

� Tare weight: 29.000

� Net weight : 400.ooo

� Date: 31.06.2010

� Packed by: PP_VIINODS

Grey yarn receiving from Alok spinning:

2500000

2000000

1500000

1000000

1

13

50

06

.91

1

3 8

73

35

.91

14

65

00

9.2

9

1

73

26

92

.85

1

91

43

81

.29

1

90

98

33

.15

2

20

80

80

.50

23

53

07

1.3

9

RA

NG

E O

F Q

UA

NT

ITY

Page 10: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

9

500000

0.00(kg) Aug08 Nov08 Feb09 May09 Jul09 Oct09 Jan10 Apr10 Month

AVERAGE DAILY RAW MATERIAL

CONSUMPTION:

120000

100000

80000

9

53

45

.27

kg

9

34

05

.76

kg

9

53

45

.27

kg

1

05

12

9.4

1 k

g

1

13

80

4.3

1 k

g

1

03

19

7.0

6 k

g

RA

NG

E O

F Q

UA

NT

ITY

Page 11: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

10

60000

40000

20000

0.00(kg) Nov09 Dec09 Jan10 Feb10 Mar10 Apr10 MONTH

Quality Assurance

Quality assurance one of the most important dept. in this weaving

section. The raw materials are coming from different companies. The

materials are then checked in this dept. before it sends to different part

in the weaving department. If finds that the raw materials do not satisfy

the standard parameter then that do not run in the loom and returns to

the delivered company. Not only the raw materials, the fabric that

made in the company, also check in this dept. before it sales to

customers. This dept. also makes a checking in the loom running time

and tells different dept. about their faults and makes a solution for they

are:

• Yarn testing (Raw materials checking)

• Fabric testing

Page 12: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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• Running time checking in the loom.

• Yarn testing

Here mainly the raw materials that coming from different sources

are checked and compared with company standard. If satisfies

then run in loom and If not then reject and return. The apparatus

that use for this testing are:

• USTER CLASSIMATE QUANTUM

• USTER TENSOJET 4

• USTER TESTER 5

• ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER

• AUTOMATIC BOARD WINDER

• SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TEST

• CSP SYSTEM

• WRAP REEL

• USTER CLASSIMATE QUANTUM

Main purpose is to measure the yarn faults. Mainly it is measured by

graphical method. Here mainly two types of graphs one for measuring

the no. of thick and thin places, no. of neps, etc and other is for

different dyed fiber that unnecessarily entangled with yarn. It also

Page 13: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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shows the types of faults. There are two types of dots: green for the

nominal fault an red for untolerable faults.

There is one cone winder machine where maximum 12 cones are

wounded. 100km is wound in one cone for measuring faults. The

winding speed is near about 400-800 rpm. In the time of winding the

fault is optically observed and plotted in graph in this instrument.

OBSERVATION:

LENGTH 50.1km 22.3km

WEIGHT 0.46kg 0.17kg

COUNT 40s 80s

TOTAL NEPS 3449 2903

SHORT THICK 153.7 420

LONG THICK 4 13.7

THIN FAULTS 45.9 276

OBJECTIVE FAULTS 12 67.9

DIFFERENT DYED 45 44

TOTAL FAULTS 3698 3664

E

150

400

250

Page 14: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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0.1 1 2 4 8 32

� USTER TENSOJET 4

This is the latest model USTER SINGLE YARN TESTER. This is used

for measuring the single yarn strength, R.K.M.(Resikilometer) &

their variation.

� Testing speed:-100 to 400 Mt/min

� Test method:- ISO 2062, DIN 53834, ASTM D:-1578 JIS

� For 60 count yarn pretension wt 4.92 gram-force, Maxᵐ

Load 2KGF.

� USTER TESTER 5

This is the latest model of USTER EVENNESS TESTER.

This machine is used for measuring the mass variation in the sliver,

roving & yarn also for hairiness index of yarn.

� Testing speed is 25 to 800 Mt/ min.

� Test method:- ISO 53817

� AUTOMATIC BOARD WINDER

100

45

-30

-45

A CB D

F G

H I

cms

Page 15: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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The yarn is wound on the black board with the help of winder machine.

According to the count of the yarn the wraps/inch is decided. The result

are decided by the ASTM method.

Cotton count Tex count Warp ASTM board Pulley set

INCH CMS

1 to 12 590 to 50 20 8 1 A

12 to 24 50 to 25 22 9 2 B

24 to 36 25 to 16 26 10 3 C

36 to 50 16 to 12 32 13 4 D

50 to 75 12 to 8 38 15 5 E

75 to 135 8 to 4 48 19 6 F

ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER

By the help of this electronic twister simply measured how much twist

present in one inch of yarn .

SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TEST

(STATEX TENSOSTATE - JUNIOR)

♦ Elongation%

♦ Time to break

♦ Tenacity.

♦ Rh corrected tenacity

♦ Load

♦ Rh corrected load

CSP SYSTEM

Page 16: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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By this system mainly different of yarn count strength product

measured.

Purpose:- To determine the count & strength.

Principle:- Works on the principle of constant rate of elongation.

Lot size No of cones No of leas

to prepare Total no of leas

Above 4000 kgs 15 15×2 30

Above 1000 kg to 4000kgs 10 10×3 30

100 kgs to 1000 kgs 5 5×3 15

Less than 100 kgs 2 2×3 6

General Information of machine:- Time: 4 hours, R.H:-65±2% ,

Temp:-27±2°C, Air pressure:- 4kg/m

GSM:

EPI*23.25

Warp =

Warp count(Ne)

PPI*23.25

Weft =

Weft count(Ne)

Therefore

Fabric GSM = Warp GSM + Weft GSM

BY GSM CUTTER:

Cutted fabric is weighted and multiplied by 100

FABRIC TEAR STRENGTH TESTER:

� This instrument is used for testing the tear strength of the

fabric in warp and weft way.

Page 17: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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� Elmatear digital tear tester.

� Used for measuring fabric tear strength.

� Testing capacity – 6400 gms

CONDITIONING SYSTEM:

In the ALOK INDUSTRIES ther is LUWA

conditioning system is used.In the LUWA system there automatic

adjusting the RH% = 65% & Temp = 22 deg.c

CONDITIONING BOX:

The conditioning box is used for conditioning the

material for testing.The conditioning is done at 65% RH & 27 deg.c

temp

DEPARTMENT WISE QUALITY ASSURANCE ACTIVITIES

� WARPING:

1.Breakages

� Spinning breaks

� Winding breaks

� Transporting breaks

2.Bottom %: Up to 1.5

3.Yarn tension

4.Beam heardness :60 -70 deg Shore

5.Pattern check for sectional warping

6. Shed checking

Page 18: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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� Sizing:

1. Roller heardness

2. Dry cyl.Temp :140 deg.c & Pressure :3.5 bar

3. Saw box temp :90 deg.c

4. Squzze roll pressure : 16 kn

5. Yarn tension in different zone

6. RH %

7. Viscosity

8. Size pick up %

9. Lappers in 3000mt/1000 ends

10. Migration in 3000 mt/1000ends

11. Setting in the different zone

LOOM:

1.Tpes of breaks

2.Fabric effect

3.Fabic width

4.Loom setting

5.Humidity

6.Temparature

7.Efficiency %

Page 19: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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PROCESS CONTROL STUDIES

1.WARPING:

There are two types of warping

� Direct warping

� Sectional warping

The various studies performed in warping are –

� End breakages study

� Performence of yarn

� General observations like humidity,

Machine parameters

2.SIZING:

The various studies performed in Sizin are –

� Stertch,scosity & Size pick-up

� General observations fabrics likes

Temparature,Lapper,Migratory Ends etc.

� Beam heardness checking and its pressure on

each ends

3.WEAVING:

The various studies performed in weaving are –

� Snap round

Page 20: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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� Loom stoppage study

� Quality round in order to check quality of

fabric on running loom.

� Humidity verification

3.FOLDING:

Two activities are being performed in folding depertment

� Mending of fabric

� Grading of fabic

Grading procedure of all fabrics is followed by 4 point American

System.

Grading of fabric is done depending upon the faults present in fabric.

PRODUCTION Planning & control

In PPC or production Planning control section mainly planning is done according

to requirement in the market. The main purposes are:

• Follow up order and delivery on time.

• Commitment of delivery date

• Maintaining forward load

• Micro-Planning i.e. daily planning with weaving preparatory and loom shed.

PROCESS FLOW CHART

Receiving work order from market

Verification of work order

Preparation of Production Programme

Approval of G.M (wvg.)

Sample required

Verification for R.M& loom availbility

Intimation to mkt

NO

YES

Sample Development

Verification

YES

Page 21: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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As shown above flow chart of PPC, after receiving enquiry from market-

the commitment of delivery date is given based upon raw material

availability, loom availability, complexity, reed availability, warping and

sizing. If party is supplying raw material then order is executed within

25 days. And if raw material is not available by party then additional 15

days are required for preparatory.

PRODUCTION PROGRAMME

Production programme for particular sort is made as follows:

PP.no: 103110071568 PP date: 4/6/2010

Sort no.: AW0064348XG SONO: 3026051922/000010

Party: TURTLELIMITED STOP: 5100075252

Construction Reed/pick: 40/1cc COTTON*40/1ccPC 65/35

Page 22: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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Weave : Dobby MCNO:AIRJET_PIC74.8”6CLRDOBY

Picks/inch:80 Shade:

Reed space: 66inch Insetion: 1

Reed: 68/4 Grey width:64”

Meters: 888 SIZ. MTRS: 1003

Delivery Date: 23/06/2010 Desk loom no.:

MATERIAL TYPE KGS/100MTR K

40s/1 CTN COMB BLACK WARP 15.218 135.13

40s/1 CTN COMB DaRKBLUE WEFT 07.797 069.23

In PPC dept. PP is made. PP is the production programme in which all

details of parameters of fabrics required by party is written depend this

the INDENT is made where the necessary materials or amount of

materials required for production

SORT MASTERING

In sort mastering each new design is given new sort number for quick

identification.

Sort no Type of fabrics

10001-19999 100% cotton

20001-29999 Viscose

30001-39999 Pet

40001-49999 Organic cotton

50001-59999 Dyed yarn

60001-69999 Slik fabrics

Page 23: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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WARPINGWARPINGWARPINGWARPING

The main object of this department is to collect a no. of warp ends

from creel & to wind them in to a sheet on doubled flanged beam in

such a manner that the threads are parallel to each other.

PROCESS FLOW CHART

RAW MATERIAL

OPENING OF CURTONS

CREELING

DENTING

LOADING EMPTY BEAM

SETTING OF INFORMATIONNIN PANNEL

Page 24: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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TYING UP OF ENDS ON THE BEAM

STARTING OF THE MACHINE

MACHINE IS STOPPED AFTER COMPLETION OF REQ.LENGTH ON THE BEAM

ENDS ARE CUT

UNLOADING THE FULL BEAM

AFTER COMPLETION BEAMS CREEL ENDS ARE CUT AT THE CREEL & CHANGE

SECTIONAL WARPING

In sectional warping mainly the warping is done sectional where the

warp thread before winding in the beam it wind in a cylinder. So here

winding does not happen directly.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:-

BEN-TRONIC

• Machine designation:

BEN-TRONIC sectional warping machine.

PRASHANT GAMATEX sectional warping machine.

• Model: movable.

• Creel capacity: Ben-Tronic-960 cones , Prashant Gamatex: 3

m/c:672cones & 2 m/c 720 cones.

• Useful widths: 2200, 2600, 3000,3400,3800,4200 mm.

Page 25: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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• Machine weight: approx 1100 to max 1400 kg.(depending up on

useful width)

• Temp. : 10c-max 40c.

MACHINE DATA:-

• Warping speed: max 800m/min.

• Warping winding tension: 600N.

• Beaming speed: 400m/min.

• Beaming winding tension: 1500N (min 100N)

VERSOMAT:-

• Make: BENNINGER

• Creel capacity: 480 cones.

• Tensioner: Disc type tensioner.

• Sensor: electrical sensor.

• Max speed: 800mt/min.

• Drum width: 2200mm.

CALCULATION:-

• Total no of ends=7068

• EPI×PPI=108×100

pattern No.of ends total

A 120 3540

B 30 900

C 30 888

D 30 870

E 30 870

• no of section: total no of ends/total pattern ends=7068/240=29.5

Page 26: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

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• Total no of section=29

• 1 section0f 108 ends

• Section width=total pattern end/E.P.I=240/108=2.22

MAN POWER IN SECTIONAL WARPING:-

• 1 operator/machine/shift.

• 1 jobber boy/machine/shift

• 3 creel boy/2 machine/shift

DIRECT WARPING MACHINEDIRECT WARPING MACHINEDIRECT WARPING MACHINEDIRECT WARPING MACHINE::::----

In direct warping the warp thread directly wind in a beam from the

creel. Here no need of any other cylinder before winding.

GENERAL INFORMATION:-

• Machine name: BENNINGER BEN-DIRECT beaming machine.

KARLMAYER – DIRECT beaming machine.

• Type of creel:- V-type creel.

• Total no of machine:- 8(BENNINGER)+2(KARLMAYER)

• Capacity of creel:- 720-1088

• Tensioner:- pre tensioning rod (The tension is given by adjusting the

distance between the 2 rods. The distance setting is 8mm.)

• Labour per m/c: 1

Page 27: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

26

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:-

• Machine designation:- BENNINGER BEN-DIRECT beaming machine.

• Model:-stationary.

• Useful width:-

ZS 1800, 1600, 2200, 2400mm.

ZS 1400, 1800 , 2200, 2400, 2600, 2800mm.

• Machine weight:3500kg

• Air pressure: min 5bar- max. 8bars.

• Air consumption: approx 3m3/h at min. 5 bars

• Permissible ambient temp: min 10 c-max 40 c

• Ceiling height: Min 3000 mm.

• Distance from m/c to creel : Min 4000mm

MACHINE DATA:-

• Operating speed : 300-1200m/min

• Crawl speed: max 200 m/min

• Overall yarn tension: max 450 N

• Beam weight : 1250 kg

• Maximum beam dia.: ZS 800:813mm,ZS1000:1016mm

• Braking moment: Max 16000 Nm

• Clamping device:9000N

• Pressure device: 200-600 daN

GENERAL OBSERVATION:-

M/C no NAME SPEED PRESSURE CREEL ENDS COUNT WIDHT

1 BEN-

DIRECT

6oom/min 300 dan 1088 1028 60s 220cm

Page 28: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

27

2 BEN-

DIRECT

250m/min 330dan 1088 936 60s 220cm

3 BEN-

DIRECT

600m/min 250dan 1088 1074 60s 220cm

4 BEN-

DIRECT

800m/min 200dan 1088 976 40s 220cm

5 BEN-

DIRECT

800m/min 200dan 1088 1076 60s 220cm

6 BEN-

DIRECT

300m/min 250 dan 1088 1018 60s 187cm

7 BEN-

DIRECT

650m/min 200dan 1088 966 80s 220cm

8 BEN-

DIRECT

900m/min 550dan 720 558 20s 187cm

9 KARL

MAYER

700m/min 300dan 680 595 40s 187cm

10 KARL

MAYER

800m/min 6oodan 720 648 20s 187cm

CALCULATION:-

No of ends=Reed space × reed count

Total length L=A+13%+50mt

Where,

A=length in sizing

13%=this is considered shrinkage

50mt=this is considered as sizing waste

Waste planning:-

13%extra=30 count

Page 29: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

28

15%extra=20count

20%extra=below 20count

TYPE OF FAULTS:-

• Slubs.

• Foreign matter.

• Thin places.

• Thick places.

• Bad piecing

• Bunch.

• Slough off- packing fault.

MAN POWER DIRECT WARPING:-

1 supervisor/shift

1 operator/machine/shift

16creel boy/shift

1 fitter/shift

6helpers for beam carrier

WARPING:-

100 HOUR: Cleaning

Monthly:- Greasing, oiling.

3 Weekly:- Cleaning, checking attain major problem.

Cleaning is done by blow air of different parts as follows

Complete machine

Page 30: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

29

Wind air

Guide roll

Pressure roll

Terapezoidal threaded assembly

Limit switch assembly

Checking:- Oil level of hydrolic

Screw connections

Drive belts

Beam position

Cylinder pressing device

Comb traverse Device

Oiling & greasing of all moving parts.

Sizing department

The main object of sizing to improve the weavability of the fabric by

increasing the strength of the yarn using size paste. The strength of the

yarn is increased up to 25%. The other purpose is to reduce the

hairiness of the yarn and make the warp as a warp sheet.

PROCESS FLOW CHART

Warpers beam

Loading creel beams

Leasing

Denting

Page 31: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

30

Loading empty weavers beam

Setting of information in panel

Tying up of Ends on the beam

Starting of the machine

Machine is stopped after completion of req. length

Ends are cut

Unloading the full beam

General information

• Make: Benninger zell

• Model: Bensizetec, synchro 4

• Maximum Creel capacity: 24

• No of Machines: 9(normal width=3, wider width=4, sectional=2)

• Country : Germany

• Type of creel: magazine creel

• Creel breaks: breaks stripes with pistons

• Beam break: hydrolic

• Double size box: for more than 55 warp cover factor it uses to

better size.

Mechanical information

• No. of sow boxes: 2

• Size roll: 2+2

Page 32: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

31

• Type of sow box: 2 dip 2 nip

• Moisture control: PLEAVA RIB

• Microprocessor: SIEMENS TOUCH

• No of drying cylinders: 8 per drying cylinders, 4 main drying

cylinders. Teflon coating is on drying cylinders to avoid sticking of

ends.

• Drying cylinder pressure:3.5 bar

• Wax box: to improve the softness & reduce hairiness of the yarn.

• Leasing zones: diameter of bigger lease rod=60mm & small lease

• rod = 35 mm

• Pneumatic beam pressing system.

• Beam pressing roll: length=340 cm, Diameter=8 cm

• Sizing level = 140mm

Motor & Power Consumption

• Exhaust fan : 2.2 kw

• Compressor: 4 kw

• Head stock down in device: 7.2 kw

• Cylinder drive motor:7.2 kw

• Squeezing roller(2): 6.3kw

• Draw in device: 0.75 kw

• Beam doffing device:0.18 kw

• Warp taping device: 0.11 kw

• Comb: 0.12kw

• Waxing device: 0.18 kw

• Immersion roller: 0.25 kw

Page 33: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

32

• Fan motor: 0.26kw

• Brake and clutch: 3.5kw

Tension in different zones

• Creel: 703kn

• Saw box1-2: 329kn

• Saw box- dry cyl=112kn

• Leasing : 3598kn

• Beam pressing= 4790 kn

Mixing recipe is done in

• Cold mixer

• Cooker

• Storage

• Cooking time:1hr

• Sow box: 14 inches

• No. of cold mixer:3(no.1=1000lt, 2,3=2000lt)

• No. of storage tank:8

Preparation of size paste

• The ingredients to be used in the sort are taken to the mixing

room and they are weighed

• The required water level is taken in the size mixer.

Page 34: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

33

• First starch and PVA are taken and it is mixed with water and cold

stirring is done for 10-15 min.

• This paste of water and starch is passed to cooker where the

steam is injected to this paste and hot cooking is done for 13 min.

• After 30min the temp. is kept around 100 -110 .

• Then this mixture is passed into storage tank where softener is

added and then continuous cooking is done as per the req.

• If there is a blend or synthetic material is there then add antistatic

agents.

• Example of ratio of ingradiant:

Count Nippa soft Super size Elavanol water

20Ne 150kg 22.5kg 4kg 22kg

60 Ne 100kg 12kg 15kg 17kg

Maintenance of the sizing

1. Monthly maintenance: greasing & oiling

• Cleaning:

� Complete machine

� Waxing trough

� Arbor screw

� Pneumatic control

• Checking:

� Safety equipment

� V-belt condition

� Nipping impression

� Leveling of saw box

• Oiling & greasing:

Page 35: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

34

� Arbor screw shaft

� All points of drying cylinder

� Chain of positive drive

� Tensioner of positive drive

� Screw shaft of immersion roller

� All bearing

2. Weekly maintenance:

• Cleaning:

� Complete machine by blowing air

� Saw box by hot water

� Pneumatic control cabinets

� Electrical control cabinets

• Checking:

� Pressure gauge of steam line

� Working of all steam traps cylinder

� Spiral cable of handy

� Leakage of air from all pneumatic line

Page 36: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

35

Man power of the sizing

• 1sizer, 1 back sizer/machine/shift (for normal width)

• 1sizer, 2 back sizer/machine/shift (for wider width)

• 1 supervisor/shift

• 1 shift in charge

• 2 data operator/shift

• 2 set ladder

• 1 mixing supervisor

• 1mixing man/ shift

• 3 helpers/shift

Auto Drawing in

Technical information

• Made : Stabuli

• Model : Delta 110

• No of machine: 5

• Performance:

� Drawing in capacity: upto 3-4 warps in 8 hr

� Drawing speed: 100/140 ends/min

� Over all performance depend upon: M/C specification,

count, no. of yarn ends/ warp, etc.

• Max warp width: 230 cm

• Flange dia: max 1200 mm

• No of warp beam:1

Page 37: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

36

• Heald width :2.2/2.5/5.5 mm

• Heald length: 260-382

• Heald thickness: 0.23-0.38 mm

• Heald type : simplex and complex

• No. of frames: max 20

Beam knottingBeam knottingBeam knottingBeam knotting

If on the loom there is same quality is running then the new beam is

knotted with the running beam.

• Made: Staubli

• Model: topmatic

• Speed :500 ends/ min

• Time required: upto 1 hr

• No. of workers: 2

Beam gaitingBeam gaitingBeam gaitingBeam gaiting

• Tying frame trolley is used to tear beam drawing in dept. to loom

shed.

• Manufacturer: to do company

Page 38: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

37

• No of workers for gaiting: 4

• Time required: 1- 1.30 hr

Page 39: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

38

WEAVING DEPARTMENT

The objective of weaving is to produce fabric by the interlacement of

warp and weft. The other object is to produce defect free fabric by

using the suitable mechanisms.

There are mainly 9 units in weaving dept. The loom distributes in that

dept. are as follows:

UNIT WIDTH NO. OF

LOOM

TYPE OF

LOOM

M/C

MANUFACTURER

1 Wider 80 Airjet Picanol

2 wider 80 Airjet Picanol

3 Wider &

normal

52 Airjet Toyota

12 Jacquard Optimax

16 Jacquard Sulzer

Sample Normal 4 Rapier Optimax

8 Sulzer

4 Normal 32 Airjet Picanol

40 Rapier Gamamax

30 Rapier Sulzer

5 Wider 144 Airjet Picanol

6 Normal 76 Airjet Toyota

228 Airjet Picanol

7 Wider 152 Airjet Picanol

38 Totota

8 Normal 12 Airjet Toyota

76 Rapier Vamatex

9A Wider 12 Airjet Toyota

16 Airjet Tsudakoma

104 Airjet Picanol

9B Normal 84 Airjet Toyota

Page 40: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

39

9C Normal 80 Airjet Toyota

9D Normal 110 Rapier Optimax

The looms that find in this dept. is mainly two type according to

shedding:

AIRJET LOOM: Here weft is inserted by air that comes from the nozzle.

RAPIER LOOM: Here weft is mainly inserted bythe rapier assembly.

Here mainly tip to tip transformation is occurred.

Process flow chart

Weavers beam

Drawing in

Creeling weavers beam

Beam knotting/gaiting

Loading the empty cloth roll

Setting of information in panel

Tying up of ends on the cloth roll

Starting of the machine

Machine is stopped after competition of req. length wound

Page 41: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

40

Cut the fabric & unload the cloth roll

General information

PICANOL PICANOL PICANOL PICANOL AIRJETAIRJETAIRJETAIRJET

• Name: Picanol Air jet

• Model: Omni plus

• Width: 190 cms (Normal), 340 cms(wider)

• Speed:850 rpm

• Cam & Dobby: Staubli

• Heald shaft capacity: 6

• Delivary : single

• Air pressure requirement:

� Oil free: 0.05-0.01ppm.

� Dew point at maximum 2 .

� Air pressure in supply line most is at least 7 bar.

• Pre winder:

� Name : Picanol Omni 2231 plus

� Model no.: IRO 2231 P19.3.

� Total pressure capacity: 2

� Heald wire details: 331mm-j type

� Eye size: 8*2.5mm

• Drop pin detail:

Page 42: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

41

� Dimension: 165mm*11mm*0.5mm

� Weight: 0.5 grms per drop pin

• Production: 680m/day/loom (appx)

• Model:

� False Selvage Cutter: B161126

� Main nozzle: Picanol BE300623

� Filling detector: BE 154883

� Filling detector sensor: BE157859

• Various mechanism:

� Let off.: Positive let off. Motor is used. A gear provide

motion from one side to another.

� Shedding : open shed.

� Shed left angle: 24

� Shed height: depends on quality, mainly counts.

� Cams are used for shedding. Staubli co. positive

shedding max 86 heald shafts with leaving cam.

� Picking: Airjet

� Profile reed and relay nozzles are used. Main nozzles

auxiliary nozzle, relay nozzles are used.

� Main nozzle: 2

� Auxiliary nozzle: 2

� Relay nozzle: 14 groups (28 relay nozzle, 26 relay valve)

� Filling detector: 2

• Nozzle:

� Main nozzle: Picanol BE 300623=2

� Auxiliary nozzle: 2

� Relay nozzle: 14 groups

Page 43: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

42

� Stretch nozzle: 1

� Distance between main and auxiliary nozzle: 100 mm

• Pressure:

� Main nozzle: 7 bar

� Auxiliary nozzle: 5-8 bar

� Relay nozzle left: 9 bar

� Relay nozzle right: 9 bar

• Timing of nozzle:

� Main nozzle: 85 -20

� Auxiliary nozzle: 85 -20

� Stretch nozzle: 245 -31

• Loom shed:

� Department RH%: 84+/- 2

� Air pressure: 7 bar

� Shed crossing: 299 +/-3

� ELSY crossing: 1 LH=300 +/-3 2LH299 +/-3

� By ELSY leno is formed

• Observation:

Sr no. Warp

cont

Weft

count

Warp

blend

Weft

blend

Reed Reed

space

Total

no. of

ends

Picking Grey

width

Size

pick

up%

rpm

13641

SZB

60S

CTN

60S

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

116/3 129 22416 110 126 9.2 525

Page 44: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

43

TOYOTA AIRJETTOYOTA AIRJETTOYOTA AIRJETTOYOTA AIRJET

• Name: Toyota Air jet

• Model: Jat710, Jat610

• Width: 180 cms (Normal), 340 cms(wider)

• Speed:700 rpm(avg)

• Type: profile reed & relay nozzle.

• Technical specification: Staubli cam& Dobby, Electronic shedding.

• Various mechanism:

� Let off.: Positive let off with motor

� Shedding : open shed.

� Shed left angle: 32

� Shed height: depends on quality, mainly counts.

� Cams are used for shedding.

� Picking: profile reed & relay nozzle

� Take up: positive take up with motor.

• Capacity of cam : 16 heald frame

• Capacity of E shedding: 16 heald frame

• Maximum haeld shaft: 16

• Selvage: leno+false selvedge.

• Leno: 2 polyester+ textured yarn at both

• Nozzle:

� Main nozzle: 2

15795

A

80

COMB

CTN

80

COMB

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

80/5 107 21200 93 104 13.7 500

Page 45: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

44

� Tandom nozzle: 2,to pass yarn from weft accumulater

� Relay nozzle:30,

• Relay nozzle: First 26 nozzle have distance of 26, last four are

40mm. Every 4 nozzle connect with one valve where as last one

have 2 nozzles.

• Motor used :

� Main motor

� Let off motor

� Take up motor

� Leno assembly

� E shedding motor

� For LH cutter motor

� Pre winder motor

• Observation:

Sr no. Warp

cont

Weft

count

Warp

blend

Weft

blend

Reed Reed

space

Total

no.

of

ends

Picking Grey

width

Size

pick

up%

rpm

62676 40S

CTN

40S

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

108/2 66 8510 80 66 5.3 452

10813 60

COMB

CTN

60

COMB

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

86/2 66 5868 88 64 18.3 500

Page 46: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

45

SULZER RAPIER JAQUARDSULZER RAPIER JAQUARDSULZER RAPIER JAQUARDSULZER RAPIER JAQUARD

• Name: Sulzer Rapier Jacquard

• Model: G6300

• Speed : 280 rpm

• Weft accumulater: iro luna

• Temples : Fire ring temples

• Selvedge : plain

• Shedding: Jacquard STABULI

• Time of knotting: 3hr

• Downtime: 6 hr

• Type of rapier: Flexible rapier

• Special feature: Double beam

• Beat up: 0

• Shade crossing: 320

• Shade angle: 32

• Central lubrication: oil

• Observation:

Sr no. Warp

cont

Weft

count

Warp

blend

Weft

blend

Reed Reed

space

Total

no. of

ends

Picking Grey

width

Size

pick

up%

rpm

JQ680

SZB

60S

CTN

60S

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

84/4 126.6 10640 50 122 27.8 278

JQ6797 60

COMB

CTN

80

COMB

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

68/5 125 10600 104 122 18.3 270

Page 47: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

46

PICANOL RAPIER JAQUARDPICANOL RAPIER JAQUARDPICANOL RAPIER JAQUARDPICANOL RAPIER JAQUARD

• Name: Picanol Jacquard

• Model: Optimax

• Speed : 280 rpm

• Weft accumulater: LGl progress vector

• Working principle: Electro magnetic

• Type of reed: plain 84/4

• Temples : Fire ring temples

• Selvedge : plain

• Shedding: Jacquard STABULI

• Time of knotting: 3hr

• Downtime: 6 hr

• No. of Hooks: 2488

• Type of rapier: Flexible rapier

Sr no. Warp

cont

Weft

count

Warp

blend

Weft

blend

Reed Reed

space

Total

no. of

ends

Picking Grey

width

Size

pick

up%

rpm

JQ785 60S

CTN

80S

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

68/5 125 21200 104 122 20% 278

JQ807 60

COMB

CTN

60

COMB

CTN

100%

CTN

100%

CTN

68/5 125 21200 114 122 25% 280

Page 48: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

47

MAINTAINANCEMAINTAINANCEMAINTAINANCEMAINTAINANCE

FOR RAPIER- JACQUARD LOOM

• CLEANING:

� All types of belt by opening cover.

� Leno assembly

� Heald frame/heald wires & harness for Jacquard.

� Drop pin & contact bars

� Reed & Sley

� RH & LH gripper

� Tample & ITS ring

• CHEAKING: OIL LEVEL CHEAKING ON THE GIVEN POINTS

� Main tank

� Take-Up & Let-off

� Dobby & Jacquard gear box

� Leno & weft selsctor

� Lubrication pad of ribbon

• GREASING:

� At Sley

� Back Rest

� Beam BKT

� Heald frame connecting liver brush

Page 49: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

48

� Load cell

� Dobby leaver gear

• OILING:

� Dobby leaver bearing

� Cloth roll

� Weft cutter

FOR AIRJET LOOM

• CLENING:

� Leno Assembly

� Heald fream/Heald wire

� Drop pin & contact bar

� Reed/Sley

� Pre-winder

� Main cutteer & selvedge cutter

� Temples

� Dobby liver & Under motion liver

• CHEAKING:

o OIL LEVEL CHEAKING AT THE FOLLOWING POINTS

� Main Tank

� Central lubrication

� Dobby

o Cloth roll drive & ITS chain

o All types of air & pipes

o All relay valve & main valve

Page 50: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

49

• GREASING:

GREASING AT THE FOLLOWING POINTS

� Whip roll-4

� Whip roll BKT-2

� Cloth roll-2

� Sley-2

� Dobby Under motion-2

� Let-off gear-1

� Liver-16

• OILING:

� Oiling on Under motion liver

� Oiling on heald frame connecting rods

• NOZZLE CHECKING PROCESS:

� Solution of water & EG liquid

� Switch on the machine

� Set time by press meter

� Adjust and set the temp.

� Press heat button

� When time up it automatically stop

� Now clean the nozzle with dry cloth

Main nozzle Relay valve Relay nozzle

Time 50min 50min 60min

Page 51: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

50

Temp. 40 40 50

• Lubricant use:

For airjet & rapier

Position Oil no Amouny/year(lit)

Main gear 150 2.5

Let off & take off gear 460 2.5

Let off & take off bar 100 1

Cam box(610) 320 4-4.5

Cam box(710) 320 6-7

Auto leveling 46 0.5

For jacquard

Position Oil no Amouny/year(lit)

Selector 150 1

Main tank 460 2.5

Jacquard gear box 100 20

Leno device 150 0.5

Jacquard greasing After 3 months

• Man power in weaving

o 10 looms/weaver

o 06 looms/weaver

o Around 40 looms/ supervisor

o 1 knotter/80 looms

o 2dressers/80 looms

o 1 maintaince/shift

o 2 shift incharge

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51

ON LINE LOOM MONITORING STOP CODES:

11 Knotting

12 Gaiting

13 Repairing

14 Maintenance

15 Reed Change

16 Quality Setting

17 Chindi Checking

18 Design Approval

19 Sizing problem

20 No Beam

21 No Weft

22 Electronic Fault

23 Wait For Gaiting

24 Wait For knotting

25 Patteren Correction

26 Redenting

27 Pressure Down

28 Others

Page 53: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

52

Different light for indication:

PICANOL

• White light on: electrical problem

• Red light on: breaking of warp

• Red light on-off: beam was end, knoter have to knotting

• Yellow light on: breaking of weft

• Green light on: hand stop

• Green light on-off: end of production of req. length

• Red+yellow on: warp & weft break

• Yellow+green on: creel is end

• Red + green on: when leno or catch cord is broken

• Red + green+ yellow: bobbin brakage, feeling stop, warp

breakage.

Toyota

• White light on: hand stop

• Red light on: breaking of warp

• Yellow light on: breaking or fault leno wire.

• Green light on: weft yarn break

• white light on-off: end of production of req. length

• Red+green on: warp & weft break, break of catch cord

• white+green on: creel is end

• Red+white + green on: bobbin is broken

• green+ yellow: leno breakage, feeling stop,

Page 54: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

53

Inspection & packing

After weaving the fabric is inspected in this dept. to find out the fault in

the fabric. After inspection the fabric is gradified into 7 classes. Then it

packs and export in market. In this dept. there are 18 machine for

normal width and 10 for wider width. The basic tasks are:

• Inspection

• Folding

• Packing

Inspection

Here mainly Four Point American System is applied for inspection. The

method of inspection is:

• Loom beam is fitted

• Fabric is passed through guide roller

• Reach in checking zone

• First check width, EPI & PPI

• Then other problems are checked

• There is a check meter to measure the length

• The report is record in report card where sort no, loom no, count

etc is written.

• The whole fabric is checked.

• Then fabric is gradified.

Page 55: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

54

M/C Diagram:

Checking

device

beam

Path of yarn Guide roller

Page 56: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

55

Inspection system

In this dept. mainly Four Point American system is used.

Sr.no Damage length Point count

1.0 weft wise

1.1 01

1.2 02

1.3 03

1.4 04

2.0 warp wise

2.1 04

3.0 Partial Defect

3.1 02

Note:

• All color foreign matter should be removed

• All partial defect more than 5mm should be cut.

II quality/ grading(for minimum 5mm should be cut)

Points per piece Points per shipment

15 points/1oo sq mtr 12 points/100sq mtr

Page 57: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

56

Gradation system

There are mainly 7 grade for fabric. They are:

Grade Pts/100sq

mtr

Pts/100lnr

mtr(normal)

Pts/100lnr

mtr (wider)

Fabric length

A 15 24 45 >=20 mtr(d)

>=40 mtr(e)

B 22 35 67 >=20 mtr

C 31.25 50 95 >=20 mtr

D No bar No bar (>1

mtr-<10 mtr

No bar (>5

mtr->20 mtr)

>=1 mtr-=<10

mtr

E No bar No bar (>1

mtr-<10 mtr)

No bar (>1

mtr->5 mtr)

>=11 mtr-

<20mtr

F All

continuous

defect

No bar All

continuous

defect

>20 mtr

G 47 75 Nil >20 mtr

All remaining qualities less than for 1 mtr as follow

Market length Packing

Chindi 0-25 cm Kg

Fents 25-99 cm kg

Formula: total points*39.37*100*total mtr/width=points/100 sq mtrs.

Page 58: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

57

Name of faults that measure:

COVER SPINNING

FAULT

WEAVING

FAULT

PARTIAL DEFECT

Bumping

Reediness

Neppines

Unevenness

Hazyness

Streakiness

Kitty level

Coarsepick

Chocked yarn

Color containing

count Variation

dirty end

double weft

high twist yarn,

knots, neps

moire effect,

oily effect

slub

slubby effect

uneven weft

three ply

coarse end

Ball formation,

Black stain

Broken end

Broken pick

Bump mark

Broken pattern

Design change

Design cut

Double end

Double pick

Double weft

Fine end

Hanging thread

Starting mark

Thin place

Thickplace

Knots

Lasing in

Leno cut

Less width

Missing end

Nozzle mark

Oily stain

Pulled warp

Reed cut

Short pick

Sizing prob.

Etc.

Crack

Hole

Float

Knotting

Multiple

breakage

Rust stain

Sizing/c stop

Tear drop

stitches

Page 59: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

58

Packing

After inspection, packing is done the steps of packing are:

• Material stag on a moving plate

• Move to wrapper plate & wrapped with plastic

• Blade cut excess plastic

• Punched to next plate where an air suction is done to brief

packing

• Next heat(150 is given to brief packing.

• Final packing is done

Information written on delivery package:

• Roll no=

• Piece no.=

• Meter

• Weight in kg=

• Grade=

• Delivery=

• Party name=

• Sort no=

Information written on the order slip:

• Sort no=

• Party no=

• Delivery order=

• Address of party=

• Deliver date=

• Transport type=

Page 60: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

59

Packing is done in 3 color plastic: white for grade A,B, green for

organic, Red for C,D,E,F

KNITTING

Knitting is the production of fabric by forming loops with yarn, which

are interlaced in a variety of ways to form the fabric. Traditional hand

knitting , using knitting needles or pins is thought to have existed as

early as the 5th

century, although other simpler techniques of inter

meshing and knotting of yarns existed much earlier.

There are mainly two types of knitting:

� weft knitting: the loop formed across the weft.

� warp knitting: the loop formed across the warp.

Here mainly weft knitting machine is shown.

Process flow chart

In knitting mainly a loop form. The other yarn passes through that loop

and knitting is occurred. A cam is there which provide the needle

motion. In this needle the weft is passed. The yarn path shown below:

Package

Passing through aluminum stick

Then passes through coni.

Then it fed through feeder

Then it come into needle & loop form

The needle reciprocated according to design by the cam

Page 61: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

60

Fabric is produce

General information

• No. of Machine:

� Single jourcy=87

� Double jourcy=83

� Jacquard=9

� Flat bed= 17

• Manufacturer : Pai lung, Mayer&cie, Kaeo Heng

• Production: 300 kg/machine/day

• Doffing: after 20000 revulution.

Single jourcy m/c:

• Diameter: 30”

• Gauge : 24

• Feeder use: 90

• Rpm: 28

• Coni rpm :25

• Roll weight: 25 kg

• Conter: 1000

• GSM: 196

Inter lock, double jourcy m/c:

• Diameter: 30

• Gauge: 24

• Feeder: 96

• Rpm: 36

• Coni rpm : avg45

• Roll wt. : 25 kg

Page 62: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

61

• Conter :2065

• GSM: 154

Rib, double jourcy m/c:

• Diameter: 30

• Gauge: 18

• Feeder: 72

• Rpm: 34

• Coni rpm : avg15

• Roll wt. : 25 kg

• Conter :2329

• GSM: 172

Jacquard knitting m/c:

• Diameter: 30( single jourcy) ,30(double jourcy)

• Gauge: 24(single jourcy), 20( double jourcy)

• Feeder: 92

• Rpm: 30

• Coni rpm :30

• Roll wt. : 25 kg

• Conter :2450

• GSM: 165

• Jacquard: it is use for rapid repeat & a wide repeat.

Flat knitting:

• Used for make collers and cough of t-sirt

• Latch needle is used

• Maximum width produce: 48”

Page 63: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

62

Quality assurance activities

• GSM testing

• Fabric testing

• Stitch lengths

Feed yarn is 1st

tested and then dispatched for bulk

Maintaince activity

• Cleaning and setting of m/c: for cotton800000rev, 1600000rev.

• At the time of cleaning cam, needle, dial, gear, shaft everything is

cleaned and clean with oil.

• Oil level is checking.

• There is three fan to remove cotton fly from yarn.

Inspection and checking

After the fabric is produce the fabric go to inspection dept. for final

checking. The yarn fault is checked according to there wt. the measure

fault that check in the dept is:

• Holes

• Press off

• Needle line

• Oil line

• Thick and thin place line

Page 64: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

63

• Lycra jump

• Pin hole

• Lycra line

• Oil drop

• Shade variation

• White spot

• Yarn cut

• Loop cut

The fabric is then graded in three class.

• Class A= 5 defect/25kg

• Class B= 10defect/25kg

• Rejected=more than10 defect/25 kg

The fabric is then packed. In red pack for sample, white pack for A

grade, and yellow for B grade fabric.

Page 65: Weaving, Knitting, Poy,Cp,Texturising

64

CP & POY department

CP (Continuous polymerization)

In this dept. mainly polymer chip is produced. Here polymerization is

mainly done. Polymerization mainly that process where mainly the

monomer is converted into a higher mol. Wt. polymer to pr. Wt.

polymer to produce yarn.

Procedure:

The main raw materials for this process is PTA(poly Teripthelic acid),

and MEG(Mono ethylic glycol). The PTA is found in form of liquid or

solid and MEG is in liquid from. The PTA stores in a large tank call PTA

day bin and MEG is in a small tank. Now this two are mixed at a ratio of

2:1 and form a slurry which in a high temp. converted into a paste of

this two ingredients. Now this paste makes a reaction. This reaction is

an ESTERIFICATION reaction. Here the paste is esterified and as a

product H2O is produced. Then the esterifies paste react with SB2O3.

Now it forms 25% low polymer. This Low polymer at last at vacuum

condition at a temp. of 290 it produce final polymer. Then filtration

is done. Then this is converted directly into the POY by melt spinning

process or into small polymer chips.

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Some important information about this process:

� This process is mainly 3 reaction: Esterification, UFPP, Finshing

� TiO2 is used here as adhesive.

� Sb2O3 is used here as catalyst

� The whole process is done at a temp of 280-290

� The whole process is done under pressure

� The whole process is controlled by the 7 operating consoles with

automatic microprocessor controlled.

The raw materials are received from this company:

� Paras alloys and Salts

� Indian oxide and chemicals

� Hongcong hauchang antimony chmical

� Sachtleben holding A.S

� Agrofort holding A.S

� Saudi basic industries Corp.

� Losa industries ltd

� Mitsui & co. ltd.

� Reliance industries ltd.

Daily production of this CP= 540 tons.

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POY DEPARTMENT POY DEPARTMENT POY DEPARTMENT POY DEPARTMENT

• POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) is produced from polymer chips.

• Wet chip hopper:-3kg air pressure also to store the chips for

further process. It also has waste collector system containing

microdust and impurities coming from continuous polymer.

• Vibro feeder:- It is having functions of feeding the reserve chips

kept in hopper.

• Crystallizer:-It drives the chips and remove microdust particles.

• Chips column:- The temperature in the column is around 265° C

and kept for 6 hours and hence it is maintained.

• Dry chip hopper:-From chip column the dry process is done in this

hopper.

• Extruder hopper:- Here chips are melt at 295°C. It has 6 zones

called as manifold. Separate motor is provided for every zone.

• Polymer filter:-It removes dust and clean the polymer chips.

• Spinning floor:-Coolling filament through perforated board.

• Oil pump:-To oil the yarn surface to reduce static change &

microbal attack.

• PASSAGE:-Duct coming from CP department having melted

chips 350°C- polymer cooler- cooling the melted chip-polymer

booster- for further process high pressure boosting pump is

provided with higher capacity motor.

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In this POY department has two unit.

• IN UNIT 1

Total line:- 10 (Each lines consists of 24 heads)

A single line of TMT winder 6 heads each head having 12 feeder from

where 12 package wound.

4×6=24×12=288 Package is being produced.

Each package have weight of 10.2 kg.

Remaining 9 line block having 8 heads each head having 10 feeder from

where 10 package wound.

3×8=24×10=240×9=2160 Package is being produced.

Each package have weight of 15 kg.

M/c Manufacturer-Beijing chonglee (China).

Production calculation:

Actual speed of spool× Actual denier× no of position

×60/(9000×1000)=_______kg/hr.

Spindle Speed- 2500m/min LOY(Low Oriented Yarn)

2500-4000m/min POY(Partially Oriented Yarn)

4000-7500m/min FOY(Fully Oriented Yarn)

Production per day of POY department- 150 metric ton

• IN UNIT 2

Total no of lines:- 12

single line of having 6 heads each head having 10 feeder from where 10

package wound

4×6=24×10=240×12=2880 Package is being produced.

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Production-350 metric ton/day.

M/c Manufacturer- Barmag(Germany)

M/c Name- Wings

Higher denier yarn is being produced in this department.

• QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT (POY)

In this quality assurance department mainly tested tensile strength,

elongation%, draw force, evenness & cross section of Partially Oriented

Yarn.

(1) TENSILE TESTING OF YARN

Purpose:- Determination of elongation% & Tenacity of POY.

Principle:- Operating on the principle of constant rate of elongation.

Appatratus:- STATIMAT ME & Yarn strength tester.

• General Information of machine

(a) Gauge length 250 mm

(b) Test speed 1000mm/min

(c) Pretension 0.5 CN/tex

(d) Drop of force 90%

(e) Compressed air pressure- 5bar

(f) Temperature of the lab 25°C to 32°C

(2) DRAW TENSION TESTING OF YARN

Purpose:- Determination of draw tension of POY

Principle:- Measuring of yarn draw tension at constant extension &

speed.

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Apparatus:- DTI 500

General Information of machine

(a) Feed rate 170m/min

(b) Test length 170m

(c) Draw ratio1.70

(d) Heating tube temperature 185°C

(e) Compressed air pressure= 6 bar

(f) Temperature of lab 25°C to 32°C

(3) EVENNESS TESTING OF YARN

Purpose:- Testing of linear density(Unevenness) of POY.

Principle:- when a yarn sample passes through capacitance testing slot,

quality change (variation in linear density) is transformed to

corresponding electric signal.

Apparatus:- Keisokki KET80 Type C

General Information of machine:-

(a) Test speed 200m/min

(b) Range±12.5%

(c) Evaluation time =1 min

(d) Compressed air pressure =4 bar

(e) Temperature of lab 25°C to 32°C

Gradation Norms For POY As Per Weight Range

Beijing Chonglee Winders

Existing Proposed Serial no Grade Wt. range in kg Wt. range in kg

1 1E 14.5kg to 15.2 kg 14.5kg to 15.2kg

2 1A 10kg to 14.449kg 10kg to 14.449kg

3 1M 3kg to 9.999kg 5kg to 9.999kg

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4 SS 500gm to 2.999kg 3 kg to 4.999kg

5 CLQ 200gm to 499gm 500 gm to 2.999kg

TMT Winders

Existing Proposed

Serial no Grade Wt. range in kg Wt. range in kg

1 1E 10.5kg to 14.250kg 9.750kg to 10.5 kg

2 1A 5 kg to 10.449kg 7 kg to 9.749kg

3 1M 2kg to 4.999kg 5kg to 6.999kg

4 SS 500gm to 1.999kg 3kg to 4.999kg

5 CLQ 200gm to 499 gm 500gm to 2.999kg

FINISHING MATERIAL (POY) FLOW DIAGRAM

POY 1 POY 2

T/UP Denier Checking T/UP

Textile lab

Packing Scheduled Testing Packing

Visual Inspection 100% Visual Inspection 100%

Grade wise/Denier wise Grade wise/Denier wise

Pin trolly Fillings Pin trolly Fillings

Weighment Weighment

Strapping Strapping

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71

Polymer

GP

Spinneret

Condition Air

Finish Guide

PigTail Guide

Intermingale

line Guide 1

Guide 2

Winder

POY MACHINE DIAGRAPOY MACHINE DIAGRAPOY MACHINE DIAGRAPOY MACHINE DIAGRAMMMM

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TEXTURISING

Texturising is a process of providing an artificial crimp to man-made

fibre to impart properties somewhat similar to natural twist fibres, it

can be provided by melt spinning in continuation by passing it from

crimping machines. It may be gear crimp or false twist texturising. It is a

method of marking the PET yarn wearable. End product of POY is POY

yarn wound on spool the weight varies from 10.5kg-22kgs. The yarn is

very lustrous and not at all comfortable for wearing. It generates static

charges and air permeability of those fabrics is very poor. Here in this

machines the output is made up from the bulk out of flat continuous

POY yarn and termed as Draw Textured Yarn. And this bulk is formed by

spindle running at 850-1000 rpm having 3 discs in zigzag manner. The

flat polyester yarn have covalent linkage with luster is removed by

heater.

THE MATERIAL FLOW CHART

Creel (Spool) Guide Rod Primary Heater(150 -250 )

Cooling Plate Spindle(disc), (850-1000rpm) V2 rod

Air pressure inlet chamber for punching(4.2bar) V4 shaft Internediator

Secondary heater(150 -190

Package Drum bakelite package

V3 shaft

Oil roller Guide

Outlet roller

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GENRAL INFORMATION

There are total 92 machines divide in 4 units in the company.

• Unit1- 36 machines

• Unit2- 16 machines

• Unit3 - 24machines

• Unit4- 24 machines (Auto Doffing)

Machines are mainly manufactured by these companies:

• HIMSON – Bhogibhai

• HIMSon – Devananadbhai

• Alidhra- Hansrajbhai

• Alidhra- Babubhai

• Barmarg- China

• Murata- Japan

• Himson- Autodoffing

TECHNICAL DATA

Machine Setting

Throughout speed 750 mpm

Draw Ratio 1.715L 1.715R

D/y Ratio 1.52

Jet over feed 4.15%

Stabilizing overfeed 6%

Oil shaft speed 1.8mpm

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Travers speed 375

Temp Primary:200 Secondary:185

Machine data

Machine no. D-Tex 15 D-Tex 7

Manufacturer HIMSON Alidhra

POY denier 250/48 130/34

Spinner Alok Alok

Merge no. 220681 108118

DTY denier 150/48 75/34

Lot no 10555 10624

Doff time 6.2hr 13 hr

Doff wt. 5.3kg 5.3kg

Paper tube color Blue-black strip Blue

No. of spindle : 312-336 for manual Doffer, for auto doffer 216

PRODUCTION DATA

Calculation

Production=(0.00016*m/c speed*denier* no.of spindle)

Production Chart

performance target Last month Best achived

Hall1A Hall1B Hall1A Hall1B Hall1A Hall1B

production 1617.5 1816.8 1757.0 1816.8

Efficiency% 93.0 93.0 88.42 89.64 91.32 88.90

1st

grade 96.5 96.5 95.65 95.76 97.7 97.64

Avg. package 4.3kg 4.3kg 3.98kg 4.06 kg 4.33kg 4.25

Ends down% 1.0 1.0 2.7 2.6 1.97 2.6

Idle% 1.0 1.0 2.64 1.97 1.49 1.3

Waste% 0.3 0.35 0.5 0.41 0.33 0.3

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Per day 400 tons produce in this dept.

PACKING & INSPECTION

There are mainly 3 types of products, those produce in the dept. They

are:

• NIM- No intermingling

• SIM- Sub intermingling

• HIM- High intermingling

On this basis the products are divided in three qualities:

• First quality

• Printing quality

• Claimless quality

This division is done on the basis of following chart:

FIRST QUALITY

Defects Knitting Weft G.F.T Micro

normal

Roto SIM Export

HIM

B.F/Loops 5-6/kg 4-5/kg nil 5-6/kg 1-2/kg 3-4/kg nil

Cross winding 2 2 nil nil 1 1 nil

Oil stain 63

70 70 63

68

66

68

Hardness nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil

Slippage nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil

Tight spot nil 1-2/kg 2-4/kg nil nil Nil nil

Bulk variation nil Very

less

Very

less

nil nil Nil nil

Weak yarn nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil

Winding

mistake

nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil

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Nips variation N.A N.A N.A N.A 1/MT 1/MT nil

High oil nil nil nil nil nil Nil nil

PRINTING QUALITY

Defects Weft Roto SIM

B.F/Loops 4-6/kg 3-5/kg 3-8/kg

Cross winding oneside,

4-6

oneside, oneside,

Oil stain high high High

Hardness normal normal normal

Slippage nil nil nil

Tight spot 4-6/kg nil nil

Bulk variation Allow Allow Allow

Weak yarn Very less Very less Very less

Winding mistake Allow Allow Allow

Nips variation nil Allow Allow

High oil Abnomal Abnomal Abnomal

CLAIMLESS QUALITY

Defects Weft Roto SIM JOB LOT

B.F/Loops 76/kg 76/kg 78/kg 78/kg

Cross winding Both side,

>6-10

Both

side,

> 6-10

Both

side,

> 6-10

Both side,

>10

Oil stain Max Max Max Max

Hardness Abnomal Allow Allow Allow

Slippage Allow Allow Allow Allow

Tight spot Allow Allow Allow Allow

Bulk variation Allow Allow Allow Allow

Weak yarn Allow Allow Allow Allow

Winding mistake N.A Allow Allow Allow

Nips variation Allow Allow Allow Allow

High oil Allow Allow Allow Allow

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Mixdenial Max Max Max Allow

For packing 3 color packs are used. Red for C.L quality, Green for

Printing quality, and white one for export quality.

Q.A OF TEXTURISING

• WRAP REEL: here mainly denier is measured in 90 mtr length.

• STATIMATEME: for measuring elongation, tenacity in a length of

500 mm-4 package from a lot.

• ITIMAT LAB: it measures punch put up into texture yarn

• TEXTUREMATME: to measure shrinkage and crimp contraction

• TWISTER: Gauge length 50 mm is test for measure the TPM.

• TKD: Tube knitting dyeing, here mainly sample of a lot is knitted

and then dyed. Now by shade variation the irregularity is

measured.