wanderlust 2021-01 amp 3b02
TRANSCRIPT
NEW YEAR, NEW VIEWHow travel will help you see yourself –
and the world – in a whole new light
Travel Well
SPECIAL INTEREST MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR 2020
NORTHERN LIGHTS
The best places to see a phenomenon WILD BALI
Discovering the authentic Indonesia SCOTTISH ISLANDS
Why Islay is Queen of the Hebrides
WIN! A trip to
St Lucia for two worth
£4,000.p82
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 3 The Original Travel Magazine, Est. 1993
Executive Director Jackie wandered
herself to a muddy, sticky standstill
on assignment in the Cotswolds.
Cheers! Writer Robin McKelvie gets his claws into the local delights on the Hebrides’ isle of Islay (p74).
UPFRONTTHIS ISSUE
Behind the scenes this month...
Assistant content editor Rosie
spotted whales while taking in the
joys of o�-season Tenerife (p22).
Monty Halls took time to chat to Wanderlust readers at our Western Australia digital event.
Welcome…
Cov
er im
age:
Pio
tr K
rzes
lak/
Shut
ters
tock
– A
uror
a bo
real
is o
ver H
amno
y in
Nor
way
Thi
s p
age:
Ala
my;
Rob
in M
cKel
vie
New horizons Taking in the view
at Banjska Stena in Serbia
4 things we learnt
this month...
1 Never whistle
at the northern
lights... (p50)
2 Antigua has a beach
for every day of
the year (p22)
3Passports come in
shades of just four
colours (p97)
4 You can toboggan
down the sunny
streets of Madeira
in a wicker basket (p92)
NOTE While we try to ensure
the information in Wanderlust is up to date
at the time of going to press, please always
doublecheck especially regarding country entry
requirements.
Hurrah! Despite all the frustrations there’s
finally green shoots of optimism in the world of
travel. With very promising news on the
vaccine front, and with more and more
countries opening their borders again, travel
companies have reported a welcome stampede in enquiries.
So what will 2021 bring? After such a surreal year, one thing
that is clear is that people want to make the most of their travels
and also there seems to be an urge to do something new. So on
page 32 we take a look at ideas for you to try in the coming year.
Being winter, we couldn’t resist going in search of the
northern lights (p50) and also raising a dram or two of warming
whisky in beautiful Islay (p74). But, like me, you may be dreaming
of escaping to the tropics, such as to the lesser-visited and more
traditional parts of Bali (p58).
A huge thanks to those of you who have written to us in recent
months; we appreciate your messages of gratitude and support.
And may 2021 bring you joy, happiness and some glorious and
life-affirming travels.
Seasons greetings,
Lyn Hughes
Editor-In-Chief/Co-founder
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 5
ContributorsTHIS ISSUE
Wanderlust is brought to life by people from all over the planet. Here are some of the writers, photographers and travellers who’ve crafted this issue – plus what their plans are for 2021
UPFRONTTHIS ISSUE
Robin McKelvie Isle of Islay
With the Scottish writer
and blogger’s usual
autumn destinations off
limits, Robin instead
headed to Islay, in the
Inner Hebrides. He
enjoys walking, whisky
and wildlife on p74.
What will you try that’s
new for you in 2021?
“There’s always
something new to
thrill and surprise in
Scotland. With over
800 islands and 11% of
Europe’s coastline,
there is a lot out there.”
Simon Reeve Interview
Wanderlust readers’
favourite TV adventurer
tells us how his travels
around Cornwall (p26)
changed his opinion on
the south-west.
What will you try that’s
new for you in 2021?
“I’m going to try (again)
to learn Spanish because
I’m hoping to crack on
with my travels down
through South America
to complete my series of
journeys through the
length of the Americas
from top to toe.”
Ash Bhardwaj Conscious traveller
Following his exploits
travelling 8,500km from
Norway to Romania and
1,100km of the Nile (with
Lev Wood), the travel
writer and film maker
here gives us some
pointers on travelling
sensitively on p28.
What will you try that’s
new for you in 2021?
“Day-trips to towns and
cities in Britain that are
not at the top of tourist
lists. I recently went to
Lincoln; the cathedral
is magnificent.”
Alex Robinson Bali
After winning awards
for his writing and
photography in the UK,
USA and Brazil, Alex’s
most recent trip for
Wanderlust sees him
dodge Bali’s tourists in
search of the authentic
experience (p58).
What will you try that’s
new for you in 2021?
“All being well I hope to
take a motor scooter
ride around the hairpin
roads of Vietnam’s
mountainous Ha
Giang province.”
Lyn HughesSt Ives
Wanderlust’s editor-in-
chief celebrated the
magazine’s latest award –
and its 27th anniversary –
by visiting the south-
west coast for our British
Break (p93) and compiling
New Year, New View (p32).
What will you try that’s
new for you in 2021?
“I’d love to do a journey by
campervan; long overdue
as it’s always appealed.
I may even combine it
with a ‘workation’ (horrible
word). I’m certainly going
to savour travel in 2021!”
Michelle Taylor Writing challenge
When not working in IT at
the Open University
Michelle’s travels take her
in search of nature’s
wonders. An encounter
en route to Broome in
Western Australia
provided the inspiration
for her travel writing
competition entry (p24).
What will you try that’s
new for you in 2021?
“I’m keen to try stand-up
paddle boarding. It looks
like a relaxing activity to
do and even better if it’s
somewhere warm.”Chr
is M
itche
ll/ B
eagl
e M
edia
Ltd
/BBC
6 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
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© Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2020/2021, ISSN 1351-4733
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The Wanderlust PhilosophyWanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do.
8 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Points of view 10 Viewfinder
The sun rises over Bolivia’s
astonishing Uyuni Salt Flats. It
could be symbolic of something...
12 Your letters & photos Your tales and snaps from the road.
98 The real wonders of the world Mokoro at the ready. Why the
Okavango Delta is a travel essential. 32
Contents
5850
Features & pocket guides32 New Year, New View
How and where to get a fresh
perspective on life and work –
just in time for 2021.
50 Northern lights From Alaska to Scotland to
Scandinavia – the very best
places to experience the
greatest show on Earth.
58 Bali We bike beyond the busy beaches
to find Bali’s true nature: villages
set in rolling rice paddies, secret
volcano hikes and dramatic islets.
90 Top Ten Highlights: Washington, DC
No reason why this USA’s capital
is getting a mention in this issue.
No reason at all...
93 British break: St Ives Out of season means fewer visitors,
which is why the ed-in-chief and her
dog are delighted to find themselves
on Cornwall’s celebrated beaches.
Isle of Islay There’s whisky, walking,
wilderness and some more
whisky thrown in for good
measure when we visit the
‘Queen of the Hebrides’.
74PAGE
Beag
le M
edia
Ltd
/Chr
is M
itche
ll/BB
C
26
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 9
Swedish LaplandWe get our cameras (and
layers) ready to search of
the northern lights,
reindeer and the Sámi .
36PAGE
Explore 17 Grapevine The latest travel news and trips.
18 Armchair Travel TV, podcasts and books to fire
your travel imagination.
20 Go now: Tenerife Walking, whales and waterfront
cafes. The ideal all-year destination
to beat the lockdown blues….
22 Head to head One country. Two islands. But
which of beachy, birdy, cricket-
mad Caribbean idylls is for you?
89
Alaska p52
Antigua p22
Australia p24
Bali p58
Barbuda p22
Bolivia p10
Botswana p98
Canada p52
Costa Rica p88
England p93
Finland p51
Iceland p52
Italy p92
Madeira p92
Norway p51
Scotland p74
USA p90
This issue mapped
24 Travel writing winners One of the runners up of our
competition discovers the
‘kindness of strangers’ within
herself in Western Australia.
26 Interview: Simon Reeve Somalia. Syria. Cornwall?! The TV
travel star explains why his south-
western adventures gave him
pause for thought.
28 Opinion: Tackling colonialism on our travels Why being mindful of the past will
make those future travels better.
22
Bali, p58
This issue’s highlights
Bolivia, p10
St Ives, 93
Alaska, p52Sweden,
p36
Australia,
p24
Botswana,
p98
Costa Rica, p88
20
WIN! A trip to
Saint Lucia for two worth
£4,000.p82
88
8892
Discover 88 Your travel tips
Spectacular wildlife, green
natural beauty and best place
to enjoy a cocktail. Here’s how
you lot experience Costa Rica.
92 Just back from...
Wicker toboggan racing,
waterfall abseiling and
a spot of horseriding too!
Reader James Willcox
escaped for a post-lockdown
active break in Madeira.
92 Disappointing attractions...
What didn’t live up to your
expectations? You had a lot of
really bitter (and quite funny)
memories – and thanks for
sending them all in!
97 The Wanderlust Christmas quiz Dare you tackle our deviously
difficult quiz, ripped fresh
from the pages of our latest
– and very reasonably priced
– new book? [Yes, you do.]
“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than in miles.” Tim Cahill
Nice to meet you...Salar de Uyuni, BoliviaPhotographer: Michael Poliza
Okay, so we may be a little way off
shaking hands again – remember
shaking hands? – or planning that trip
to Bolivia’s iconic mirrored salt-flats
(aiming for the December-April wet season for
that perfect mirror effect). But it doesn’t seem
too far off either, does it? As we get optimistic
about what the new year may have in store for
us, we venture back to one of our favourite
sources of photographic inspiration. Michael
Poliza’s glorious The World, out now in an
updated edition. You know, that looks like the
sun rising over the horizon to us...
© 2019 Michael Poliza. All rights reserved.
The World (teNeues) is out now (£50);
www.teneues.com;
www.michaelpolizatravel.com
UPFRONTVIE WFIND ER
12 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
UPFRONT POSTE RESTANTE
Your mail and missives recalling favourite travel destinations, mislaid journals, things to be thankful for and more
”[The Costa
Rica event with
Ray Mears was]
Informative and
entertaining,
resulting in an
urgent need to take
up canoeing. These
events are very
welcome during
lockdown.”
@gavingough
[On Palma]
”I’ve been
lucky enough to go
to Mallorca three
times in the last
year. Every time I
stayed on a different
part of the island,
but I always made
sure I ventured
into Palma.”
Clemma Tagg
”Shame you
didn’t mention
Aizu region in your
Tohoku itinerary [in
the recent Japan
Trip Planner].
Aizu-Bandai road
down into Nikko is a
glorious way to link
two great areas!”
@AlfieJapanorama
Your letters
SOCIAL TALK
@wanderlustmagwanderlusttravelmagazinefromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk @wanderlustmag
Drop us a line with your pics, thoughts, tips and
travel suggestions, and help other travellers find their way
Star letter Lost in transitWatching Sir Michael Palin in Travels of a
Lifetime reading from his notebooks brought
back memories of a visit to China that my wife
and I did in 1988. I kept a daily account of our
activities, ensuring that observations that the
camera could not portray were logged. On our
last day in Hong Kong we were so busy I did
not have time to do any writing, but there was plenty of time on the flight
home to complete the notes. At a stop for refuelling I put the notebook in
the pocket in front of my seat and we had to vacate the plane. To my horror,
the cleaners had made a clean sweep and my notebook of the three weeks
of travel had gone! There was a very depressing period until the boxes of
slides started coming through the letter box. With the aid of the images,
the written words in the notebook came flooding back. From this I created
an essay that repeatedly gives pleasure. John N Stevenson, Edinburgh
Literary lureYour article on Palmyra [issue 210]
took me back to October 2010 and
one of my favourite adventures.
I’d read a biography of [scandalous
Victorian aristocrat] Jane Digby
and was inspired to travel to Syria
to follow her journey. I sat where
she had painted her beautiful
watercolours of the ruins and felt so
privileged to have been able to be
there. Only five months later, the
destruction of Syria’s antiquities
and the deaths of so many of the
inhabitants began. I treasure the
photos I took and the people I met,
and my heart breaks for Syria’s
sorrow. Brenda Boulton
Tales from the riverbankThe November issue arrived just
before I set off on my week on the
canals and so I much enjoyed your
piece ‘Tales from the Riverbank’ in
anticipation of my own trip. This was
taken at Autherley Junction where
the Staffs and Worcs Canal joins the
Shropshire Union. Charles Kinsey
EXPLORE
32 wanderlust.co.uk November 2020
wanderlust.co.uk November 2020 33
DISPATCHES
In the depths of lockdown,
when we could only dream
of travel, the chance-find by
my mother-in-law of a bundle
of papers wrapped around
a handful of black-and-white photos
opened a door to a whole new world.
The yellowing typewritten pages
captured the recollections of her
father-in law, James McManus’s,
17-hour trip across the Syrian desert,
from Baghdad to Palmyra.
What made it truly fascinating was
the fact this journey was taken in the
1920s. A civil engineer, James
travelled from his home in Paisley,
Scotland, to live in Iraq; reading his
words and seeing his photographs
felt like stepping into a time machine.
Family treasures uncovered during
lockdown don’t come much better
than this. James wrote in the present
tense and captured the sights and
voices of the desert road trip. We’re
right there, standing beside him as he
points out tombs, colonnades of stone
columns and considers their history.
Palmyra was devastated when ISIL
took control of the area, their
attempts to destroy the site described
by the UN as a war crime. Now the
Syrian government is restoring the
UNESCO-listed site. I’d like to think
James would have approved.
Here are his memories …
“Halte, stop. Nouvelle Palmyre.” To the
weary and dust-stained traveller
approaching Palmyra from the desert,
these signs are welcome. Palmyra at last.
Only 17 hours before, the lights of
Baghdad, 725km away across the
Syrian desert, winked farewell.
Powerful touring cars with running
boards laden with baggage almost to
the height of the hood, travelling all
through the night and a great part of
the next day, had spanned the barren
expanse of desert.
An uneventful journey, it is only
when watches indicate that Palmyra
should be on the horizon there is any
interest. Every distant mound is the
subject of speculation until, at last, the
sun on its western course throws into
relief a dark, irregular shape, which
very slowly resolves into patches of
light, shade and straight lines
recognisable as buildings.
“Palmyra,” says the Syrian driver,
“half hour.”
Turns and twists through the
narrow streets of New Palmyra,
a French-Arab town, allow occasional
glimpses of the ancient city beyond.
A sharp turn to the right past a police
post and there it lies – Queen Zenobia’s
famous city, lonely yet magnificent
even in the chaos of its ruins.
The Palmyra of old may have been
named the City of Palms but there are
few palm trees nowadays. One sees it
as a veritable city of columns. They
cover the area in reckless confusion.
Some rear proud heads 12 or 15 metres
in the air, as erect as the day they were
set up 17 centuries ago. Those
upstanding bear marvellously, but
precariously, enormous stone blocks,
which span from column to column.
To the thoughtful traveller, the
17-hour-journey across the
desert conjures up visions
of the old caravan route
“”
Postcard from the past
“A city of columns.”
And so begins James
McManus’s 100-year-old
account of his journey to
Palmyra, discovered
during lockdownAngela McManus
James McManus’s journey across 1920s Syria has been gathering
dust for nearly a century – until a lockdown tidy-up uncovered
them. Here, we print James’s thoughts as he crossed the desert...
On the road to Palmyra
CORRESPONDENT REPORT
Hundreds, alas, lie
prone, the weathered
yellow stone giving some
semblance to huge
cornstalks, as if a giant
reaper had been at work. In
this barren desert there is no
lichen, moss or clinging ivy
to cloak the nakedness of the
ruins and time has dealt out
uneven treatment. The yellow
stones are pitted and scarred by
the violent blasts of prevailing
sandstorms. In many places the
delicate carvings are as sharp as the
day they were cut, while in others they
are completely eroded.
Built into each column is a bracket
that originally carried a statue. These
were erected to honour those who,
braving the perils of the desert, led the
wealth-laden caravans safely from
India and Persia. Every such
successful venture brought wealth
and renown to Palmyra and its
commemoration in stone also,
materially, helped to build the city.
The number of columns has never
been computed, but some indication
of Palmyra’s success in trading may
be gained from the statement of ⊲
Dre
amst
ime;
BBC
The write stu�I enjoyed the online travel writing
competition you held in June. It
came along just at the right time to
lift the spirits of so many of us that
had trips cancelled. The daily
prompts were great sources of
inspiration. I wrote every day during
the run-up to the closing deadline,
and felt as if I was stepping back into
the best moments of my adventures.
Are you thinking of keeping your
writing prompts as a regular feature
on the website? Laura Eirinn
Thanks, Laura. We’ll put up some more
prompts over the Christmas period – Lyn
Timely updatesI just wanted to extend a thank you
from myself and my fiancé. We’ve
managed to be blessed with 10
days free of our four children to
take our honeymoon and, although
we haven’t booked it yet, your
wonderfully informative and
updated guide as to where we can
and cannot travel has been a
resource that we’ve tapped into
every day.
We are super anxious about this
terrible virus altering our plans any
more than it already has. We’ve had
to cut back on so much already,
only allowed to have six guests to
our wedding, plus our children,
and are currently waiting to hear
if we can have our small reception.
Our saving grace will be our
honeymoon and we really do
thank you for your updates!
Thank you from the bottom of
our hearts for keeping us posted
and making this easier for us to
track! Leanne and Daniel
Each month, the recipient of
our ‘Star letter’ award will win
a versatile High UV with Insect
Shield Bu�® – the ultimate travel
accessory (£22.50 RRP) – so be
sure to get in touch…
Win BUFF® HEADWEAR
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 13
UPFRONTYOUR PHOTOS
“The crowded beaches at Erraid sands
on Mull in late October 2020, just before the
second lockdown.” Rob Harper
”I got up with the sun that morning
for a flight above Cappadocia, Turkey, and it
was breathtaking.” Cyndi Garner
So, where have you been recently? Send us pictures from your latest adventures, whether near or far – tag us at #wanderlustmag on Instagram or email them to [email protected]
#wanderlustmag
“Fall is a beautiful time to explore Mangisa
Temple, in the hills around Pyeongtaek,
South Korea.” Rebecca Schochenmaier
“We loved our first road trip to Norway
from the UK and were lucky to have seen the
Northern Lights.” Angela Farmery
“The wonderful Sutton Bank in beautiful
Yorkshire. My first visit and I loved it.”
Caroline Cox
“No visit to Wanaka, New Zealand, would
be complete without a photo of the world’s
most photographed tree.” Susan Blick
“Looking for Inspector Salvo
Montalbano among the beautiful baroque
architecture of Noto, Sicily.” Simon Furze
“Enjoying bath time along the
Pennine Way.”
Rhonda Gurney
“We climbed Creagh Beagh near
Kingussie. It was a stunning and varied
introduction to the area.” Emma Lyons
COMPETITION
To enter the competition, visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions
comfortable, while the many
pockets ensure practicality.
Women’s Jammer Knit Pant IIWith an updated contemporary
style and fit, this comfortable
trouser provides the versatility
of leggings combined with the
functionality of travel trousers,
making them great for everyday
wear. What’s more, they’re made
from recycled PET bottles,
meaning they’re sustainable
as well as stylish.
Women’s Bug Barrier Discovery III Pant
Made with stretch nylon, these
trousers are light, durable,
breathable and quick-drying,
making them easy to pack and
suitable for trips all over the
world. They can be rolled up
to 3/4 length and include Insect
Shield to prevent bites from
insects. Packed full of practical
features including crease-
resistant fabric, multiple pockets
and a comfortable brushed, soft
waistband, you’ll be feeling and
looking great wherever your
adventures take you.
Wherever we go
travelling, the
clothes we wear
can make a huge
di�erence to our comfort and
our mood. That’s why Royal
Robbins is o�ering one lucky
reader the chance to win £500
of Royal Robbins clothing of
their choice. Whether you are
enjoying a break in the UK or
a trip overseas, the collection’s
comfortable fit, packability and
wear-anywhere practicality
means Royal Robbins garments
will be top of your kit list.
The only problem? Deciding
how to spend your voucher.
With such an extensive
collection – including packaway
coats that convert into bags,
stain-resistant clothes made
from Royal Robbins’ clever
‘Spotless’ fabric and expedition-
ready apparel – there’s a lot
to choose from. Here are just
three items that you could
spend your voucher on…
Men’s Bug Barrier Active Traveller Pant This classic travel trouser is
great for both hikes at home and
further-flung adventures. Made
from stretch nylon, the trousers
are quick-drying, durable and
breathable. And with a Bug
Barrier treatment, you won’t
have to worry about pesky
mosquitoes, either. Adjustable
cu�s and a brushed, soft
waistband mean you’ll stay Mar
tin O
lsen
WIN! £500 worth of Royal Robbins
clothing of your choice
About Royal Robbins Royal Robbins and his wife Liz
were inspired to start the
company after seeing a photo
of themselves at the top of Half
Dome in ripped shorts and
realising there was a gap in the
market for stylish outdoor
clothing. They started Royal
Robbins to make clothing that
would go everywhere. The brand
still makes enduring, classic,
outdoor clothing for people who
love the natural world today.
And because Royal Robbins
clothing is comfortable, easy
to pack, quick to dry and stylish,
you can rely on it for all of your
adventures, whether they are
close to home or overseas once
the world starts travelling again.
Find out more about Royal Robbins clothing by visiting:
royalrobbins.com
14 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
How to enterRoyal Robbins is offering
one lucky reader the
chance to win and choose
£500 of Royal Robbins
clothing. To enter, simply
answer the following
question:
In what decade was Royal
Robbins founded?
a) 1940s
b) 1960s
c) 1990s
To enter and for full terms and
conditions and data policies, go to
wanderlust.co.uk/competitions.
Closing date: 10 February 2021
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 15
ExploreTravel news p17 | Armchair travel tips p18 | Head to Head: Antigua vs Barbuda p22 Dispatches: a blown tyre in Western Oz p24 | Column: being mindful of the past p28
Shut
ters
tock
Food | Culture | Adventure
Simon Reeve tells us all about his latest TV
adventures in Cornwall, p26
Tackling Tenerife Walking, whales and
waterfront cafes during
the day; stargazing during
the evening, p20
GO NOW!
16 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Meet some of travel’s biggest names at our virtual travel events. Keep checking our events page and make sure you’re signed up to
our newsletter to ensure you don’t miss out – and get advance access with a Wanderlust subscription!
wanderlust.co.uk/events
eventsreader
Don’t miss out on our virtual travel events
Ash BhardwajJulia Bradbury
Ray MearsMonty Halls
Julia
Bra
dbur
y; M
onty
Hal
ls; G
len
Burr
ows
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 17
EXPLORE
GrapevineThe
Shut
ters
tock
, ww
w.o
utdo
orw
orld
dire
ct.c
o.uk
What’s getting us talking at Wanderlust Towers
Visit our website to find out about upcoming events, from
webinars and chats on Instagram Live. As well as mingling with
like-minded travellers and meeting the Wanderlust team, you
can ask questions to a host of experts. wanderlust.co.uk
Did you know that you can’t buy
Maltese wine in the UK? It’s time,
therefore, for oenophiles to
raise a glass to Malta Tourism
Authority for designing a new
wine trail that weaves across the
Mediterranean archipelago. The
route takes in all of Malta’s eight
vineyards and two on
neighbouring Gozo.
Most o�er tours and tastings
and have shops so you can stock
up on your favourite bottles –
Mar Casar on Malta sells vegan,
gluten-free and natural wines
grown without herbicides or
pesticides, while Ta’Mena on
Gozo sells homemade cheese,
pâté and tomato paste. You can
also explore Monte Kristo’s
underground vaults on Malta,
followed by a meal paired with
wine at San Niklaw nearby.
maltauk.com/winery-trail/
If you felt that 2020 passed you by then investigate
the Jordan Trail Pass, a new passport-style scheme
to encourage hikers to delve deeper. Launched in
2017, the whole shebang – all 675km of it – takes 40
days, but you can just walk sections of it, seeing
parts of Jordan most travellers miss.
The passport’s packed with tips, maps and space
for stamps – collect them all to go home with a
certificate. The route guides you through the forests
of the north via the city of Petra before ending at
the Red Sea in the south. jordantrail.org
Fed up with your travel plans falling through? Well, now you can get back in the driving seat thanks to Celtic Routes. The new UK company has launched a series of self-drive 4WD itineraries around Scotland, Wales and Ireland that have been designed with social distancing in mind. Each Land Rover Discovery comes with a tablet pre-programmed with directions, recommended routes and the weather.
It also suggests restaurants and hand-picked accommodation, from lighthouses to yurts and castles. Mountain bikes, paddleboards, camping equipment and pre-bookable adventures are optional extras. Prices start from £1,495pp and include seven nights’ accommodation, breakfast and some dinners. celticroute.com
DRIVEN WILD
Off the beaten track
Wine & dine
DATES
FOR THE DIARY
As well as a built-in headrest, Vango Radiate’s new
Single sleeping bag comes with an electric heater
and a zip that doesn’t undo on its own. It’s way too
heavy for travelling but throw it into your car for
UK camping breaks or sleeping under the stars
on your decking. £75.
outdoorworlddirect.co.uk
Buy this!
18 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
EXPLORE ARMCHAIR TRAVEL
The Mouse House is wildMichael Palin. Simon Reeve. Mickey Mouse?! Festive treats for everyone in the house this year, from old favourites to new heroes...
WATCH THIS AT HOME...
With Christmas on the way, you
may be looking for ways to keep
little ones entertained that won’t
drive you to the cooking brandy.
The Disney+ channel’s extensive
collection of on-demand National
Geographic and DisneyNature
documentaries can be tactically
deployed to that effect: try Monkey
Kingdom, African Cats or Bears,
which play young but boast the
cinematography that you’d expect
from a prestige natural history
show (and are often made by the
same crew). Meanwhile, the grown
ups in the house can enjoy the likes
of The Lost City of Machu Picchu,
the Jane Goodall documentary
Jane and the troubling Into The
Okavango, all of which will
certainly put a few ideas on your
New Year resolutions list.
There are more gifts under the
tree too. Following the success of
his archive-traipsing Travels Of A
Lifetime (BBC2; date TBC) during
the first lockdown, Michael Palin is
back with a new special show. This
90-minute episode will focus on
Himalaya, Palin’s 2004 adventures
through India, Pakistan, the
Tibetan Plateau and Bhutan.
But Sir Michael isn’t the only hero
delving into his back pages. Fresh
from his experiences in Cornwall,
Simon Reeve has been using his
lockdown time to contemplate
a career in travel. Incredible
Journeys with Simon Reeve (BBC2;
date TBC) will see the explorer
reflect on the most
remarkable and remote
destinations he’s visited.
If you’ve had your fill of
the season to be jolly, Reza
Pakravan has something less
saccharine for you. The World’s
Most Dangerous Borders
(Amazon Prime) see him rough it
across Africa, following the Sahel
line (where the northern deserts
meets the greener savannahs of
the south) from Senegal to
Somalia. This brings him into
contact with some of the planet’s
little-visited and most troubled
political hotspots, and the people
and cultures who live there – often
in dire need of a lot of peace and
goodwill. Let’s hope they get some.
NH
FU/W
illia
m S
teel
; Fire
cres
t Film
s/Ry
an M
cNam
ara;
Em
ma
Mat
tsso
n; S
hutt
erst
ock
Lesser spottedA female leopard rests in
a large Jackalberry tree in
Disney+ documentary
The Flood; (above)
Michael Palin
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 19
The Gardens of Mars: Madagascar, an Island Storyby John Gimlette£30; Head of Zeus
John Gimlette’s latest thoughtful
study sees him explore the
relatively recent human history of
the world’s fourth largest island. He
travels across Madagascar to discover that
the people who live there are every bit as
extraordinary as its unique flora and fauna.
Red Sandsby Caroline Eden £26, Quadrille Publishing
Using food as her window into the
lives and culture of the people of
Central Asia, Caroline Eden once
again successfully mixes travel
writing with recipes, providing a tasty
insight into this wild sweep of land.
How to Shit Around the World by Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth £13; Travelers’ Tales
Wanderlust’s regular medical
expert has updated her guide to
staying clean and avoiding illness
while on the road. Often just as
funny as it is plain speaking and practical,
it’s much more than just a bathroom read.
Pilgrim Pathwaysby Andy Bull £15; Trailblazer
You don’t have to head to Spain,
Italy or the Holy Lands to enjoy
a spiritually minded wander.
These detailed guides to 20
one- or two-day walks from across Britain
provide some great getaway ideas to let
you become a weekend pilgrim.
Lion: Pride Before The Fallby George Logan £45; Born Free
A beautifully crafted coffee-
table book celebrating the
endangered King of the Plains
from top photographer Logan.
All proceeds go to Born Free’s Last Lions of
Meru conservation programme in Kenya.
Read this!
Singapore slingSingapore may still be closed to visitors at
the moment but a whole new range of virtual
experiences can take you there from your
armchair. The tourist board is offering
a range of videos and 360° experiences on
their site – take part in a noodle challenge or
have a nose round Raffles Hotel’s famous
Long Bar. You can also download
backgrounds for your virtual meetings,
such as Changi’s iconic waterfall.
They have also joined forces with AirBnB
Experiences to launch a collection of
paid-for online ‘tours’ including Secret’s of
Singapore’s Smallest Museum and Learn the
Secrets of Singapore’s Kaya Jam.
www.visitsingapore.com/virtual-
experiences;
www.airbnb.co.uk/s/Singapore/
Here are the recent books
getting us ready to go
If our story on Swedish Lapland (p36) has you
curious about everyday life there but you can’t travel
just yet, then checking in on the Northern Soul
Journeys YouTube channel may be just what you
need. Hannah and Jeremias are dog mushers living
in a wilderness homestead and post weekly videos
about their huskies and their life. From the
disappointing potato harvest to what they feed their
dogs, this is a fascinating insight into northern life.
https://www.youtube.com/c/
northernsouljourneysthelonghillhomestead
Life as a musher
Ask any well known adventurer how they planned their trip and many will wax lyrical about how they started by buying a map or book at the legendary Stanfords bookshop in London. Since 1853 the likes of Captain Scott, Ernest Shackleton, Florence Nightingale, Ranulph Fiennes, Bill Bryson, and Michael Palin have all made a beeline for Stanfords before embarking on an expedition. In 2019 it moved from its home on Long Acre to smaller premises in nearby Mercer Walk and is as inspirational and useful as ever.
However, with the impact of COVID-19 hitting both travel and retail hard, the shop has faced major challenges and is asking for help. A crowdfunder is running until 23 December. https://payitforward.london.gov.uk/support-stanfords
But even if you miss that, the best way to support the store is by making a purchase: stanfords.co.uk
Stanfords needs YOU
20 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Walking, whales and waterfront cafes. With cheerful temperatures and crowd-dodging adventures, Rosie Fitzgerald says that Tenerife is the perfect place to beat the lockdown blues…
Towering volcanoMount Teide stands
within Teide National
Park and is a must-see
place to visit
AWL;
Ala
my;
Shu
tter
stoc
k
“Wow, was the
whole of
England
on your
plane?” said the airport worker at
Tenerife South Airport. I laughed
from under my mask. I was standing
in a long queue of socially distanced,
last-minute travellers, waiting to
get my temperature checked, just
days after the Canary Islands were
added to the UK’s travel corridor.
On the other side of the airport,
I was greeted by blue skies and
swaying palm trees. I smiled.
Where better to blow away those
lockdown blues than in Tenerife,
an island popular for its year-round
balmy temperatures? Although it
may be the warm weather, sand
and sea that attracts so many
travellers, there’s much more to do
here than lying on a sun lounger.
Despite staying in lively hotspot
Costa Adeje, just a 45-minute walk
lifted me up in the mountains.
Surrounded by lunar landscapes,
with the sun sparkling off the blue
waters below, there wasn’t a person
or hotel in sight.
With a reputed 900km of hiking
trails embossing the volcanic
island, it’s easy to get off the beaten
track here. Head inland to wind up
the iconic Teide – the tallest
volcano in Spain. Or head to
Parque Rural de Anaga to stand at
the most northerly point of the
island, admire the desert-like flora
and work your way downhill to
a white-washed village where
you’ll have the black-sand beach at
the bottom almost to yourself.
More adventures await off land.
Brave the waves whipped up on
the south-west coast by taking
a surfing lesson, or venture
further on a whale-watching tour,
where sightings of pilot whales are
pretty much guaranteed.
All that Atlantic has other pluses
too. At the waterfront taverns you
can enjoy fresh local favourites vieja
(parrotfish) or sardines. Or you can
try the traditional rabbit stew, with
a side of papas arrugadas – boiled
spuds served with a mojo rojo sauce,
whose spices often reflect the
Canaries’ proximity to Africa.
With all that walking, water and
whales, there’s a very good reason
why the flights should be full when
they start up again. But Tenerife is
certainly worth queuing up for.
Go Now
Go now to fix the lockdown blues
THE DESTINATION:
TENERIFE
Towering volcanoMount Teide stands
within Teide National
Park and is a must-see
place to visit
Go now to fix the lockdown blues
THE DESTINATION:
TENERIFE
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 21
EXPLORETENERIFE EXPLORE
Getting there Tenerife has two airports
– one in the north and
one in the south, so
decide where you’re
staying before booking
your flights. British
Airways flies to both
from London Heathrow,
from £103 return. Flight
time is around four and
a half hours. ba.com
26 The number of species
of cetaceans found o�
the coast. These include
bottle-nose dolphin,
pilot whale, orca, baleen
whale and blue whale.
3,718The height of Teide in
metres – the highest
volcano in Spain.
2,034 The size of Tenerife in
square kilometres – the
largest of all the Canaries.
18 million Units shifted of U2’s
Achtung Baby – many of
the images on the album’s
cover were
shot at the
Carnival of
Santa Cruz.
THE NUMBERS
Must-try outdoor activities
IF YOU ONLY DO THREE THINGS
STARGAZING
With some of the clearest skies in
Europe, head to Teide National Park
with a local guide to observe the
stars. While the night sky glitters
year-round, visit in August to
witness the shooting meteor
showers of the Perseids.
WHALEWATCHING
Head out on one of the many
boats departing from the south-
west of the island. Pilot whales can
be seen year-round. Visit between
November and February and you
might spot migrating humpbacks,
fin whales and even blue whales.
HIKING
WALK YOUR WAY AROUND THE ISLANDThe best way to really explore Tenerife’s verdant forests, volcanic slopes,
coastal views and historic towns is on foot. The good news is that
walkers are well-catered for, with plenty of signposted trails.
If you’re looking to eye-up the coast, then stretch your legs in Teno
Rural Park in the north-west of the island. At over 1,300m, offering up sea
views in almost every direction you look. Teno is also popular because of
its greenery. You’ll find yourself in thick laurel and giant heather forests.
Look out for rare species such as the osprey and the giant Teno lizard.
For a deeper understanding of Tenerife’s explosive past, go on a guided
hike up Pico Viejo, the island’s second-highest volcano. Your guides will
show you the black lava that scars the landscape, left over from an
eruption in 1798. If there are blue skies, you’ll also be able to see some of
the smaller islands in the Canaries, including La Palma and La Gomera.
PARAGLIDING
You may not think it’s your thing, but
watching those kites sailing high up
and gently making their way to the
coast before touching down on the
sand is strangely tempting. If you’re
going to try this anywhere, Tenerife
makes for an exciting first time.
the images on the album s
cover were
shot at the
Carnival of
Santa Cruz.
e of
a.
hing, but
g high up
ay to the
wn on the
If you’re
Tenerife
t time.
TOP TIP
Join a guided tour of Barbuda’s
caves. Indian Cave is marked with
petroglyphs by the indigenous Arawak
people, Darby Cave is a 20m deep sinkhole and Dark
Cave is home to bats and blind shrimp in
natural pools.
AT A GLANCE
AntiguaPopulation
Around 80,000
Total area
280 sq km
Famous for
Antigua Sailing
Week, cricket,
financial services
and the UNESCO
World Heritage
site Nelson’s
Dockyard, built by
the British Navy in
the 1700s.
BarbudaPopulation
Around 1,300
Total area
161 sq km
Famous for
Cricket (again),
rum, 2017’s
Hurricane Irma
and ducana (sweet
potato dumplings).
ANTIGUA BARBUDA
22 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
EXPLORE CARIBBEAN ISLANDS
VERDICT: Antigua is larger and livelier than Barbuda, which was evacuated following the
2017 hurricane. Visit the latter to help the island get back on its feet and you’ll be rewarded
with authentic Caribbean culture and rare birdwatching opportunities.
These two Caribbean islands, about 60km apart, are part of the same country.
Boats shuttle between them in 90 minutes, but if you could only visit one
to experience its beaches, birdlife and festivals, which would it be?
Boggy Peak, the 402m remnant of a
volcanic crater on Antigua, is the islands’
highest point. Antigua’s 5am Hike Club
hosts weekend sunrise hikes, but if you’d
rather walk alone follow the 1.5-hour loop
from Galleon Beach to Shirley Heights
(right), for views of English Harbour, or do
a three-hour Wallings Dam to Falmouth trek.
HIK
ING
Antigua and Barbuda has 194 bird species.
As well as flamingos, you may spot Antillean
crested hummingbird (right), purple- and
green-throated carib and the ruff, whose
elaborate plumage resembles a carnival
headdress. Keen twitchers should visit
Greencastle Hill National Park and Great
Bird Island, 3km off the east coast.
Barbuda has the western hemisphere’s
largest colony of frigate bird, so it
shouldn’t come as a surprise that it is the
nation’s national bird. The species boasts
a 2.4m wingspan, while males attract
mates by inflating their scarlet necks like
balloons. Look out too for Barbuda warbler
and tropicbird in Two Foot Bay.
Alam
y; S
hutt
erst
ock;
Get
ty
Antigua has 365 beaches – one for each
day of the year. While all are public,
Landing Bay in the north-west is the
easiest to access, Darkwood Beach (and
the nearby Love Beach) in the south-west
is away from the resorts, while Eden
Beach is popular with nudists.
There’s more to these beaches than
squidging the sand between your toes.
Head to Low Bay to kite surf, or learn to surf
at Palmetto Point (left) in the west of the
island. Don’t miss Pink Sand Beach nearby;
it’s named for its rosy hue, caused by
thousands of shards of broken coral.
BEA
CH
ES
Head to HeadAntigua VERSUS Barbuda
As a former coral reef, Barbuda’s highest
point is the 38m Highlands, so Antigua
wins when it comes to elevated views.
However, the southern section of Route 1 is
a worthwhile 90-minute walk as it hugs the
coast and is bookended by Pink Sand Beach
and Princess Diana Beach – named after the
princess who enjoyed holidaying here.
Start exploring St John’s at the Museum of
Antigua and Barbuda – to discover its
colonial past and sugar trade – before
touring Antigua Rum Distillery. Cricket fans
should visit Sir Vivian Richards Stadium, or
attend the annual festival. Alternatively,
visit during Antigua Sailing Week (24-30
April ’21) for a nautical-flavoured party.
Codrington is named after a plantation and
slave owner. You can see the remains of his
home, a reminder of the island’s dark past.
However, much of the town – and the rest
of the island – was destroyed by a
hurricane in 2017, so visits are low-key
affairs. Explore by bike then sample
authentic cuisine at Palm Tree Restaurant.
THE
CA
PIT
AL
BIR
DLI
FE
Highlights of the Caribbean
(clockwise from top left)
The turquoise waters of the
Pillar of Hercules at the
entrance to Antigua’s
English Harbour; the view
from Shirley Heights;
Barbuda’s Pink Sand Beach;
frigate birds nesting and
displaying
BARBUDA
ANTIGUA
24 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
TRAVEL WRITING
COMPETITIONA three-week trip – and an unexpected encounter – through Western
Australia provided the inspiration for Michelle’s runner-up winning entry into the Wanderlust Writing Challenge, themed around the kindness of strangers
Alam
y
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 25
EXPLOREWRITING COMPETITION
“”
“Let’s get a photo
of the sign,”
I suggested. “It’s
not every day we
cross the Tropic of Capricorn.”
Paul nodded and eased his foot
off the accelerator.
The tyres bounced and the
suspension creaked as we pulled off
the empty, tarmac road to Broome
and onto the compacted orange sand
interspersed with hardy, drought-
resistant shrubs and brush. It was
then that we saw the motorhome.
Standing in front, leaning heavily
on one crutch, the other balanced
snugly in his armpit, was an elderly
man waving energetically in our
direction. Just as we approached
a second person slithered out from
under the vehicle.
“We’ve got a flat,” the old fella said
in a wispy voice. “She’s got it jacked
up, but can’t undo the wheel nuts.”
Clad in short, denim shorts, lithe
and tanned with silver hair clasped
loosely at the back of her head, his
wife nodded in agreement at the
succinct summary.
Paul and I looked at one another.
Pasty, office-based IT specialists,
we were no match in practical
skills to the two grey nomads
chasing the sun north up the
west coast of Australia. At our
Grey nomadsWORDS MICHELLE TAYLOR
feet their shaggy terrier stared up
at us, willing a response.
“I’ll give it a go.” Paul stepped
forward towards the deflated
tyre, stooping to his knees in the
gritty sand.
“No wait.” The golden-toned
woman disappeared briefly,
resurfacing carrying a frayed
blanket that she unfurled over
the sandy, rocky ground, to reveal
a series of dirty marks and patches
of matted, coarse dog hairs.
Under a pounding sun, Paul
crouched down and with a grunt
of effort and a crack from the
wheel nuts began spinning the
bolts loose, while the old man
spurred him on with upbeat
phrases, his desperately thin frame
struggling to hold his body erect.
“I’d do it myself, but I can’t
anymore, not since the accident.”
Wiry, reduced to little more than
skin and bone, the old man’s golden
skin tone belied his true state of
health. Angry sores and the uneven
pigment of earlier breakouts
branded him with the mark of an
extremely ill man.
“Cut myself gutting a fish,” he
ventured. “Bacteria got into my
bloodstream. There’s nothing they
can do, but there you go.”
I shu�ed unevenly on the spot, the
soft hot sand which was spilling over
the edge of my sandals onto my toes
no longer offered me the comfort it
once did. Spare tyre fitted, his body
soaked from his efforts in the
unwavering heat, Paul attempted
a final turn of the wrench before
rising to his feet and brushing the
sandy dog hair off his knees.
“Good on you mate,” the old man
said, “I promise I’ll never tell a
Pommy joke again.”
As we pulled back onto the familiar
tarmac of the road to Broome, Paul
and I laughed at the deal we had
unwittingly brokered with this
intrepid couple still setting off for
the winter months, home in tow, in
search of sun and adventure.
Paul and I looked at one another. Pasty,
office-based IT specialists, we were no match in practical skills to the two grey nomads chasing the
sun north up the west coast of Australia
Broome with a view A campervan over-
looks the beach near
Broome, Western
Australia, at sunset;
(right) Michelle on her
journey and the
troublesome tire
Cornwall with…
Sailing throughSimon explores
life in Cornwall
during the pandemic
SIMON
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 27
EXPLOREINTERVIEW
London to Glasgow. But it has
a beauty as well. It’s part of
what draws people there.
You’ve travelled overseas
a lot – did this experience
touch you in the same way?
Yes, it absolutely did. Cornwall
is not as climatically extreme as
some parts of the world. There’s
not the mountains, the desert, or
the indigenous communities in
a jungle, but there are extreme
lives, and there are fantastic
stories, and there are inspiring
people to meet. And for me,
that’s the greatest joy of travel.
Somebody like Don, who runs
the food bank [Ep.1] or Sue Sayer
a seal nut who took me out
to see grey seals o� the coast
[Ep.2] – they’re just incredible,
unforgettable characters.
They’re as interesting as anyone
anywhere on the planet.
tourism employs the most
people. The great fear in
Cornwall this year was that they
were going to go through three
winters back-to-back – winter
last year, e�ectively a winter
over the summer this year, and
then the winter that’s coming
now. And that would have
driven enormous numbers of
people in Cornwall into poverty.
It does feel as if Cornwall is
overlooked, or only seen as
a holiday destination…
Cornwall’s got an enormous
amount to o�er. It’s basically
almost an island jutting into the
Atlantic. It’s got the wilderness
and the wild, the landscape
and the mystery. And it’s got
the isolation, which works both
for and against it. In terms of
travel, it’s very easy to forget
how disconnected Cornwall
is from the rest of the UK. The
time it takes to get to London
is equivalent of going from
He may be known for his intrepid overseas exploits, but Wanderlust favourite Simon Reeve has turned his sights closer to home – Cornwall. He tells us about his South-Western adventures
How did the idea for the
Cornwall series come about?
And was it your idea?
No, it wasn’t. And I slightly
resisted it. I wasn’t convinced
that we could make it work.
I suppose I’d bought into
a simple stereotype of Cornwall
– the beaches and surfing
image of the place.
Then as soon as you start
doing even the most basic
research, you start uncovering
stories, issues, the history, the
mythology... And so, it became
a bit of a no brainer. This
summer, Cornwall was such
a focus of vacation desires but
it’s also a microcosm of so
many issues we face during
the pandemic, and more
broadly as well as a nation.
This year’s been particularly
devastating for Cornwall from
the point of view of jobs?
Not just this year. There is
the ‘staycation’ Cornwall, but
there’s also the fact that during
our great industrial decline,
Cornwall lost an enormous
number of jobs. I don’t think
enough people fully appreciate
the scale of that. And as a result,
there is a shortage of long-term
careers there, and a shortage of
employment for a lot of people.
Agriculture is now the
biggest industry, but
Do you find that a lot of people
who think they know Cornwall
only know the coast?
We met people who’ve been
going to Cornwall for years,
and they’ve never even heard
of the town of Camborne! We
definitely need to explore more
when we’re in Cornwall and
learn about its mining history
and biodiversity. Visit the Lost
Gardens of Heligan and the
Eden Project for jumping o�
points to learn a lot more about
Cornwall’s past, its present and
its future. Cornwall is a distilled,
intensified microcosm of the
whole country in lots of ways.
So, did you finish up feeling
quite hopeful for its future?
I absolutely see hope for the
future in the people. I think
there’s so much raw beating,
sexy, wonderful, glorious
potential in the people of the
county of Cornwall and in the
country as a whole. We’ve got
so much going for us in terms
of our abilities, our aspirations,
our desires. I think harnessing it
and leading it is the challenge.
I think people want a greener,
more interesting, fairer, more
equal world. I think Cornwall
will benefit massively from its
raw potential in the future. It
has to think big, of course,
but it can be done.
Cornwall with Simon Reeve is out
now on BBC iPlayer. REEVE Go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/212
Read the full interview online
Cornwall is basically an island
jutting into the Atlantic. It’s got the
wilderness, the wild, the landscape
and the mystery
“”
Words
Lyn
Hug
hes Images
Chr
is M
itche
ll/ B
eagl
e M
edia
Ltd
/BBC
Why being mindful of the past
will make those future travels better
28 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
EXPLORE OPINION
The Conscious Traveller
Travel has not always been good for everyone, says travel writer, film maker and storyteller Ash Bhardwaj, and knowing that helps us travel better.
The great travellers of history, such as
Magellan, Columbus, Cook and Speke, are
known as brave souls, whose discovery of
new lands increased knowledge and
opportunity for everyone. But, for the
people who already lived in those lands, the
explorers’ arrival was rarely a good thing.
Following in the wake of those initial
explorers were the traders, the conquerors
and the curious. Indigenous people were studied, at best,
with exploitation, dispossession, enslavement and
genocide as more common outcomes.
Now, we shouldn’t feel responsible
for the behaviour of our ancestors, but
we need to be aware of it, because that
history shapes the world today. Of
course, destinations want to present
a positive image to visitors, so the onus
is on travel writers to provide context,
even when it is tempting to ignore it.
Until recently, a well-known guide
book wrote about the ‘colonial beauty’
of Caribbean cities, while neglecting
to mention that those same cities were
built by enslaved people. When British
Airways started direct flights to Charleston, South
Carolina, travel sections were filled with articles about
pleasant stays on plantations, but few of them mentioned
the slave history of the area.
Sometimes, when journalists do provide context,
squeamish editors remove it. Recently, a magazine cut
any mention of the British Raj from an article about
Darjeeling by the author Monisha Rajesh; in doing so, the
context about Darjeeling’s creation (as a summer escape
for British Imperial overlords) was lost.
This sort of editing is rarely an act of censorship; it
usually comes from an editor’s desire to keep travel ‘light’.
But the upshot is continued ignorance about the
sometimes unpleasant past of pleasant places.
So, how should the conscious traveller approach these
matters? First of all, accept that your knowledge is
incomplete. There will be elements of history and culture
that you won’t have been taught, or which have been left
out of guidebooks (intentionally or not).
Whilst I was planning for a trip along Russia’s European
border, I mostly read current affairs and travel books by
British journalists. I happened to know a Professor of
Modern History who was originally from Belarus, and
I asked her what else I should read.
“Tolstoy and Dostoyevsky,” she
said, “Sure, they won’t give you
a run-down of modern history, but
you will be reading books about
Russia, written by Russians – free
from Western preconceptions. And
you’ll get an insight into the Russian
soul, rather than the author’s travel
problems or political opinions.”
It made me connect with the places
I visited in a more visceral way, and
gave me a cultural touch-point with
the people that I met.
Secondly, be humble about history. As Brits, we are proud
of our ‘good’ history, such as the Second World War. But we
remain comparatively ignorant about Britain’s more shameful
acts, like war crimes in Kenya or Malaya. Locals in those
countries will not be ignorant of that history, so talking about
a ‘benign’ British Empire in places that suffered occupation,
looting and massacres is insensitive and ill-mannered.
European colonisation affected most of the world. You
don’t have to see everything through that lens, but being
conscious of the past provides you with context and
humility. That will make travel more rewarding for you,
and for the people that host you.
Accept that your knowledge is
incomplete. There will be elements of history that have been left out
of guidebooks
“”
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 29
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Mr T Raveller5 Wanderlust Close
Journeyman’s Way
Wandering-by-Sea
West RidingIMOF OUT
32 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
1MIX WORK & PLAY ON
A WORKATION
If there’s one big learning
from 2020 it’s that those of us
who previously worked in an o�ice
can work successfully from home.
So, if all you need is decent WiFi,
the next logical step is why work
from home if you can work from
somewhere more exotic? Forget
staycation, the big new word is
‘workation’ (or ‘workcation’).
Some countries have been quick
to see the potential in this and are
actively trying to tempt a new type
of ‘digital nomad’. Antigua and
Barbuda have introduced a ‘Nomad
Residence’ visa. The Cayman
Islands has introduced a Global
Citizen Concierge Programme
that allows eligible individuals and
families to work remotely from
the island for up to two years. In
Europe, Croatia, Mallorca and
the Czech Republic are all
trying to woo workationers
post-pandemic.
Hotels around the
world are catching on
to the trend too and
promoting WFH (working from
hotel) packages. Whether you book
an off-season stay in a lovely UK
hotel, rent a Greek beach villa for
a month, or decide to spend a year
based in the Caribbean, this looks
like a trend that isn’t going away.
2WALKING WITH
ANIMALS
Animals are good for us.
We’ve woken up to the fact that it
is not good to ride elephants, and
not everyone is confident riding
a horse. But why ride an animal
anyway when you can walk with
it? Chances are that you’ll learn
more about it, form more of
a relationship with it and feel
more at one with nature too.
Out of office repliesTry a workcation or
(bottom right) get
closer to nature by
accompanying a fell
pony on a trail
NEW YEAR, NEW VIEWLooking for a new challenge in 2021? Seeking a fresh
perspective on life and work – or just on yourself?
Well, here’s how travelling can offer you just that...
Alam
y; P
hoeb
e Sm
ith; S
imon
Chu
bb; S
hutt
erst
ock
TRY THIS
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 33
4LET’S GET PHYSICAL
Make 2021 the year you
stretch yourself physically
as well as mentally. It doesn’t have
to be an Everest Basecamp trek or
mountain bike challenge (unless
that’s what you really want).
Do you usually go for gentle pub
walks where you live? Try a multi-
day hike instead, whatever degree
of di�iculty. Not been on a cycle for
years? Fear not, electric bikes are
here to save you. Perfect too, if you
have a fit partner or friends who
want you to join them on a trip.
Stand-up paddleboarding is
seeing an explosion of interest
and can be tried in so many
places, at home or overseas.
There’s a growing interest in
canoeing and kayaking too.
And if it really is just a good
stretch that you need, yoga will
improve your flexibility, balance
and mental wellbeing. Try it in
Costa Rica, India or Bali and you
really will return recharged.
5GO FORAGING
& EAT OUTSIDE
Get a deeper understanding
of nature by foraging for your food.
The experience of gathering wild
foods is fascinating and fun, and
best of all, you get to eat it.
In the UK you can of course
look for wild mushrooms (make
sure you have someone who can
identify them!), wild garlic and
good old blackberries. Try
a dedicated experience such as
the ones that the Tudor Farmhouse
Hotel offers in the Forest of Dean.
The joy of foraging is that
you can do it anywhere in the
world, and courses are now
sprouting up everywhere.
Do try a foraging experience
where you then cook outside –
the food always tastes a million
times better. And, if feeling
inspired, we recommend you
ask for Wilderness Chef: The
Ultimate Guide to Cooking
Outdoors by Ray Mears as
a Christmas present.
Backyard beaches Try a new way to travel,
whether exploring the
local area in more depth,
or a new experience such
as paddleboarding, yoga
or foraging
In Nepal you can walk with
elephants at Chitwan National
Park, and in Thailand an
increasing number of ethical
elephant sanctuaries are offering
it as an experience.
The UK offers walking
experiences too. Whether it’s
treks with llamas in the Black
Mountains (oldkingstreetfarm.
co.uk) or hiking with endangered
fell ponies in the Lake District (see
Wanderlust/September 2020)
spending the time communing
with a four footed-friend will
slow you down and keep you
focused on the moment.
3EXPLORE YOUR
BACKYARD
We’re all guilty of ignoring
what is under our noses, or having
the attitude that “it will still be there
when I’m too old to travel overseas.”
In the UK it is always shocking
when meeting a keen traveller
who has never been to Scotland,
Cornwall or the Lake District.
But it’s so easy to always think
of ‘travel’ as somewhere overseas.
So, think about bits of your home
country that you haven’t visited
yet. Away from the honeypots,
there will be so many secret spots
waiting to be discovered. Visit more
popular places out of season (eg
St Ives, page 93) when your visit
will be appreciated. You could
even go somewhere really close to
home; staying a night or more in
a different environment can open
your eyes and prove more of a travel
experience that you’d ever imagined. ⊲
TRY THIS
34 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
6STAY IN NATURE
There’s recently been
an explosion in unique
accommodation – yurts, treehouses,
‘bubbles‘ – situated in wild places.
A stay in a treehouse is a way to
really feel in nature; the evocative
smell of the wood, the creaks and
swaying as it moves. There is also
something very special about
sleeping under a glass dome with
perfect views of the surrounding
countryside by day and of starry
skies by night. It really helps you
feel a connection to nature. And
look out too for places with an
outside shower or bath... sheer bliss.
Best of all is to sleep outside if
the weather permits. Whether you
hunker down on a ‘star bed’ in an
African safari camp, next to a fire in
an Arabian desert, or on the deck
on an Egyptian gulet, this is the very
best sort of sleeping experience.
7TRY A DIFFERENT
MODE OF TRANSPORT
The pandemic has made
us rethink our contact with
other people, and it is therefore
no surprise that campervan/
motorhome rentals are rocketing
and that many people are planning
self-drive holidays. If there is a year
to first experience #vanlife it will be
2021 – look out for an upcoming
feature. Likewise, canal cruising
in a narrowboat has proved
to be incredibly popular (see
Wanderlust/ November issue).
We predict that 2021 will also see a
boom in cycling holidays, especially
by e-bike. If you fancy bikepacking,
where you take everything with you,
look at the really useful bikepacking.
com website as a starting point. If
you want more support, and your
luggage taken for you, then a host
of specialist tour companies o�er
exciting itineraries.
But let’s not forget the romance
of rail. There could well be fewer
people travelling by train in 2021,
making this your time to take
a grand tour by rail or have your first
sleeper train experience.
8A NEW SKILL
Enforced lockdowns and
working from home led
to many people taking up a new
interest or skill in 2020. Make
2021 the year you take that a step
further and combine learning a
new skill with travelling.
It could be that you want to finally
get round to learning a language
(like Simon Reeve on page 5). It’s so
much easier to absorb a language
in the destination, whether doing
a formal course or simply practising
as you go around and about.
But this could also be the year
to learn how to make fresh pasta
on a cooking course in Italy, learn
to tango in Buenos Aires or learn
bush skills in the Okavango
Delta. Whether a day course
or a dedicated week or
longer, the opportunities
are increasing all the
time. And your travel
memories will be all the
stronger and longer-
lasting for your new skill.
9LIVE LIKE
A LOCAL
Understanding how
locals live really gets you under
the skin of a destination. There are
dedicated tours, and there has
been an explosion in experiences
you can book through sites such as
Viator, Airbnb, Get Your Guide, Urban
Adventures and Tripadvisor. Pick
wisely and you can learn to make
sushi in someone’s house in Kyoto, or
prepare tacos in a Mexico City home.
Use travel communities to make
contact with locals. You could
use an app like Meetup – which
brings together people with shared
interests (eg running clubs, choirs,
photography clubs) and highlights
activities and events.
Some tourist boards have schemes
where you can meet a local; West
Sweden for instance has a Meet
the Locals scheme enabling you
to go crab fishing, walking or learn
about railways with people from the
area. The Global Greeter Network
connects you to volunteers who can
show you around their hometown.
Another way to get an insight into
local life is to be a repeat customer
in the same cafe or local shop
several days in a row; forget your
smartphone and just hang out.
Simon says... “¡Hola!”(clockwise from above)
The TV star is looking to
learn a new language in
2021; narrowboating;
treehouses
⊳
Sim
on C
hubb
; Liv
ing-
room
; Chr
is M
itche
ll/Be
agle
Med
ia L
td/B
BC
G E T T I N G T H E
G R E E N L I G H T
Lights. Camera. Action. We go in search of the phenomena,
wildlife and people that make Swedish Lapland so special
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS MARK STRATTON
38 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Scrunching
through freshly
fallen snow,
I looked up at
a magnificent
arc of stars
undergoing
cosmic bad
reception as the sky began shape-
shifting with jerking staccato
movements. A silvery rectangle
materialised, then the lights
concertinaed out like a Japanese
sliding-screen and silhouetted the
surrounding pines. The lights then
reassembled, oozing smoothly like
the matter of a lava lamp, before
a celestial shower of stair-rods rained
down. Aurora borealis had arrived.
This collision of solar-charged
particles and atmospheric atoms left
me ecstatic, rekindling childhood joys
watching firework displays and
appreciating my good fortune because
seeing the northern lights is never
guaranteed in Swedish Lapland. But
tonight, it was -8°C and the night sky
unblemished. My camera, set for long
exposures, sucked out an intensely
luminous shamrock-green hue naked
to my eye. The aurora proved
challenging to photograph, like trying
to get a toddler to sit still for a school
portrait yet I carried on taking
pictures until my fingers froze, then
watched this phantasmagoria play out
until it vanished abruptly and
uncloaked the starry sky once more.
I’d travelled to Swedish Lapland as
the last throes of autumn transitioned
to early snowfall, hoping the aurora
might cast light over the darkness of
a challenging year. And what better
place to socially distance? Isolation is
a natural state of affairs in
underpopulated Sápmi, to afford
Lapland it’s Sámi name, where
these remote indigenes have
roamed the roof-of-the-world for
thousands of years. During my
four-days here, I would savour this
wilderness and meet the hardy souls
who live off the land and ice.
But first something novel.
Unfamiliar normality. Taking me to
his remarkable Treehotel was Kent
Lindvall. He wore no facemask and all
Luleå’s shops were open. “We’ve
followed our own path in Sweden,” he
said. “We’ve not closed our borders,
everything has stayed open. Swedes
are trusted to follow the rules on
social distancing.” Nobody wore
a mask during my four-night stay.
Branching outThe gateway to Swedish Lapland, Luleå
is an unremarkable port town on the
Gulf of Bothnia’s northernmost shore,
just below the Arctic Circle. It moved
from an inland location to the sea in
1649, leaving behind a UNESCO World
Heritage-listed town at Gammelstad.
Here the 15th-century Nederluleå
church remains surrounded by 405
little red cabins that once hosted the
frozen faithful who traipsed across
Lapland for Sunday service.
Seventy-five kilometres away in
Harads, the Treehotel is up there with
the Ice Hotel as Sweden’s quirkiest
accommodation. We arrived at Kent’s
old-fashioned guesthouse, a former
geriatric home, soft furnished with ⊲
SWEDEN
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 39
Seeing the wood for the trees
(clockwise from left)
View from the ‘Blue Cone’
treehouse window at the
Treehotel; the ‘Dragonfly’
treehouse; the ‘Cabin’; the
northern lights over Swedish
Lapland; sauna; (opposite page)
the ‘UFO’ lives up to its name
Pre
viou
s P
age
Alam
y
40 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
SWEDEN
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 41
touches from the 1930s. I stopped
for a bowl of homemade Jerusalem
artichoke soup before walking into
the surrounding forest to seven
extraordinary treehouses backlit by
aurora borealis. Most eye-catching is
the UFO, a five-bed silver flying
saucer suspended by wires from the
surrounding trees. It has a ladder
stretching down to the forest floor
and I half expected to see a little
green man appear suggesting ‘he
came in peace’. The Bird’s Nest
took more finding, camouflaged by
sticks, roomy enough for both
a family of four and a pterodactyl.
“A friend and filmmaker came to
explore his childhood by building
a treehouse here,” said Kent, next
morning over waffles and blueberry
smoothie. “We asked if we could rent
it out to guests and noticed those
who slept in it felt connected to the
forest. In 2010, I met three Swedish
architects on a fishing trip and
challenged each to design me
a treehouse. We subsequently
added four more designed by
architects across Scandinavia.”
But cosmic lightshows and funky
accommodation aside, it was the
hardy inhabitants that began to
really capture my attention;
inhabitants of an extreme landscape
where midsummer sunshine radiates
for 24 hours daily and winter
temperatures plunge to -30°C.
Canine capers “I saw the northern lights around
midnight,” said Kim Jonsson, a local
musher, later that morning. “But I was
heading to my outhouse for a pee and
felt too tired to get my camera.”
Thirty minutes from Treehotel
is a farm near Krokfors where Kim
runs Lapland Husky. My previous
experiences dogsledding had been
unsatisfactory. I’d experienced dogs
driven too hard, not least in
Greenland, and seen them chained-
up in enclosures snarling at anybody
who went near them. But any
concerns about Kim’s dogs’ welfare
subsided when a pretty Alaskan-
cross with sapphire-blue eyes ran
excitedly towards me and slobbered
my face with husky kisses.
Softly spoken, Kim explained he
has just 26 huskies. He selected
⊳
⊲
42 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
eight for a morning sled-run, all of
whom careened around with
excitement, howling towards a
non-existent moon. “I never wanted
too many dogs,” said Kim, attaching
their harnesses. “I want to retain
a personal relationship with each dog
and to care for them properly.”
Training starts at between 6-8
months, when the younger puppies
are mentored by senior dogs like
12-year-old Stella. She exuded the
enthusiasm of a pup but didn’t miss
a trick to stretch out on the snow to
conserve her energy.
Kim explained that Alaskan
huskies are lighter and faster than
Siberian but without their
endurance, although he has driven
a team 100km in 24 hours. We
would just be doing a quick loop
around the pine forest.
Kim handed over the dogsled to me
to ‘mush’. They’re not di�cult to
drive, with steering handles like
a motorcycle with brakes. I felt the
exhilaration of speed and the rush of
freezing air on my face. In truth
Kim’s huskies knew exactly where
they were going so it was like
steering on autopilot. “My only
rule is be sure you’re on the sled
before taking off the brake or they’ll
leave you behind. My dogs love
me, but they love running more.”
Shaggy dog storiesCanine deja-vu manifested again on
Hindersön Island. Shortly after
arriving at Jopikgården Lodge I was
mobbed by seven boisterous,
9 months-old Siberian husky
puppies, considerably stockier than
the Alaskans. Big Leo, destined to be
the size of a small horse, mistimed an
enthusiastic welcome and his large
front paws clattered into my groin.
I staggered backwards, grimacing,
nearly slipping on the ice.
Sleepy Hindersön is one of 1,300
islands that make up the Luleå
archipelago in the northern Gulf of
Bothnia. Hewn from the Ice Age,
only a few of these flat forested
islands are permanently inhabited.
“By early November the ice is too
thick for boats to reach them yet too
thin for vehicles,” explained Shane
Doolin, who transferred me by small
boat to Hindersön. “During that
transition I drive a small hovercraft
around the islands until the ice is
thick enough to take vehicles,” said
the ex-Australian navy captain who
came here with his Swedish wife
some years back. By January an
8km-long ice-road is firm enough for
motorcars to Hindersön.
Shane is one of a trio of co-owners
that includes ex-US Army veteran of
25 years, Eric Schlemme, and his
Swedish partner, Susanne. The three
took over the 4-roomed lodge in late
2019 and opened last February.
“Coronavirus closed us in March but
at least it’s given us plenty of time to
get prepared,” said Eric with the
schadenfreude expected from a military
man who once guarded the Berlin Wall.
Eric’s pet project is the establishment
of a dog-pack. I checked into their
converted 19th-century farmhouse
with four upstairs rooms and received
a warm welcome of glug, heated spiced
wine. But I was eager to meet their
11 Siberian huskies, keen to understand
the dogs as individuals rather than
entertainment automatons. The
boisterous puppies were almost fully
grown, their coats thick and silvery-
grey, lupine in appearance. “Recently
they performed a mass breakout
causing the islanders to form search
parties,” sighed Eric.
To mentor them, Eric has four older
rescue-huskies, including Mimi and
Guido, their parents. The powerful
Guido was wary. He was found
abandoned at the property of his
musher, who had committed suicide.
He was going to be put down.
“When we heard, Susanne and
I looked at each other and thought, ‘We
can’t let that happen.’ He’s nervous
with strangers but everyday gets more
comfortable,” explained Eric. There’s
no such reticence with siblings Jumper
and Juna, who bounded all over me.
Jumper was abandoned because of
a minor eye defect and wasn’t
considered reliable for sledding.
“When we got him, he’d never been
indoors but he soon discovered our
sofa and now he howls until we let
him inside to sleep on it,” said Eric.
Training them would recommence
when the gulf froze over. But for now,
I savoured the island’s evolution
‘I was handed over the reins of the dogsled to mush. I felt the exhilaration of speed and the rush of freezing air on my face’
⊳
⊲
SWEDEN
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 43
44 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Life in Lapland (clockwise from top left)
Dinner on Hindersön; Sámi
tepee with Andreas and Henrik;
blueberries and lingonberries;
view near the Gulf of Bothnia;
boathouse on Hindersön and
its shoreline; Susanne and
puppies on Jopikgården;
reindeer of Henrik Andersson
SWEDEN
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 45
from autumn to winter. Evening
dinner was cooked over a fire as
the northern lights showed again
and I toured tranquil Hindersön
on a fat-tyred bike.
In the 1930s, Hindersön had around
150 residents but after the Second
World War this waned until 1960 when
the school closed. The handful of
islanders remaining were buckling
down for winter. A shop the size of
a bus shelter was almost out-of-stock,
while the wooden jetties were
unattached to avoid being crushed
by the developing pack-ice. The
fishing-boats, harvesting Kalix caviar
from a fish called the vendace, would
soon be dry-docked.
Rounding up reindeerI transferred back by boat to Brändön
Lodge’s waterfront. Scalloped from
a pine forest, the lodge has 15 cosy
log-cabins facing the
Gulf of Bothnia. Over
dinner, its owner,
Göran Widén, said
COVID-19 has had a big
impact on numbers of
international visitors.
Yet because Swedes
have been free to
travel with no
lockdown, they’ve
filled the vacuum.
Peak winter season
would start around
mid-February when the gulf freezes
solid and guests are taken out on
snowmobiles to dine on the ice and
dogsled. For now, lingonberries and
blueberries still poked through the
forest floor snow as lodge guide
Andreas, took two British families and
myself on a basic survival skills course.
Creating sparks from a striking-flint
we lit fires in damp conditions to boil
hot water for cocoa. “You can boil
snow – but don’t use it if yellow or if it
has ‘Maltesers’ on it,” he joked.
The course had ended with us
tasting reindeer – grilled inside the
lodge’s replica Sámi tepee – yet my
final adventure in Lapland would see
me seeking ones with a pulse,
travelling 90km north-west of
Brändön Lodge to meet a Sami
herder. Andreas drove me through
a monochromatic landscape of
snowy pines and birch until we
reached the hamlet where we meet
Henrik Andersson. “Don’t ask him
how many reindeer he has. It’s like
asking how much money he has in
the bank,” advised Andreas.
Henrik eschews romantic
preconceptions of Sámi being dressed
in furs and living in tepees; his high-
performance snowmobile was parked
outside his modern bungalow and his
mobile phone has an app tracking GPS
collars on his reindeer herd. “It makes
life easier than searching thousands of
hectares for them when we round
them up to start the migration south
in November,” he said.
Of course, I was unable to resist
asking the question. “How many
reindeer do you have?” Henrik
screwed up his face.
“You want to know how much
money I have in the bank,” he
teased? “About a thousand.”
Henrik is Luleå Sámi, they dwell in
the forests and speak a different
dialect to the northern Sámi living
high in the Arctic; their reindeer
graze amid the trees during
summertime upon lichen and
fungi. As winter onsets Henrik
drives them south to overwinter
around the Gulf of Bothnia where
foraging is easier in milder climate.
Or so it used to be.
“Climate change may be the
death of Sámi culture,” explained
Henrik. He said wetter milder
winters lead to more impenetrable
ice when the freeze comes so his
reindeer cannot feed off ground
moss and lichen. “Last winter
was catastrophic, the ice was so
thick around Luleå I brought them
back here to supplementary feed
them. That cost me £150,000
throughout the winter.”
A passionate advocate for Sámi
culture, he was planning to head
down to an Extinction Rebellion
protest in Stockholm to address
the crowd about existing with
climate change. COVID-19 had
also reduced demand for reindeer
meat as hotels were not ordering so
prices per kilo had fallen.
Following the herdWe drove deeper into the forest
to his cousin’s smallholding
where a fraction of his herd
loitered around a feeder station.
A handsome alpha male with tall
willowy antlers watched us
passively. Amid his herd was
a sub-male along with females
and several snowy-white calves.
The mating season was just over.
“Males can mate with 50 females,
but this drains them of energy and
they’re vulnerable to
losing the herd to
a younger male in
better condition,” said
Henrik. Now 40-years-
old, he said he’d begun
assembling his herd
aged 17. “Reindeer
herding has been in
the blood of our
people since the
Ice Age,” he said.
Temperatures
plummeted that
evening back at Brändön Lodge. After
dinner I strolled down to the gulf
hoping for a farewell burst of the
northern lights. Lapland’s wilderness
had felt far removed from the travails
facing the world and as soon as the
gulf froze it would be transformed
into a winter playground. But most
preciously, I’d had time to appreciate
the perseverance that characterize
those on Europe’s frozen margins.
With COVID-19 delivering a climate
of discontent, which will hopefully
thaw soon, this remote region and its
people were like a blast of icy fresh air.
Aurora borealis stayed hidden that
night but it’s this unpredictability that
encapsulates its unceasing wildness
and I remembered something Eric
said back on Hindersön. “It is
mother nature up here that
determines what we are going to do
next day.” How true this was.
‘Reindeer herding has been in the blood of
the Sámi people since the Ice Age’
�
⊲
SWEDEN
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 47
Vital statisticsCapital: Stockholm
Population: 10.3million
Language(s): Swedish with
English widespread
Time: GMT+1 (Summer GMT+2)
International dialling code: +46
Visas: Not required
Money: Krona. £1=SEK11
When to go September-March The primary
season for aurora borealis; look
between 9pm-2am when the
winter skies are dark. Allow
3-4 nights to maximise your
chances of the experience not
being obscured by cloud.
November The snow has fallen,
and the Gulf of Bothnia freezes,
enabling activities like dogsledding
and snowmobiling, at their peak by
late Jan to Mar before springtime’s
thaw. Temperatures of -34°C have
been recorded at Brändön Lodge.
Early June A good time to hike or
maybe join a tour to find bears.
Footnotes
Sweden
THE TRIP Mark travelled as a guest
of Discover the World
(01737 214291; www.
discover-the-world.com).
A 4-night trip per person
costs from £2,077,
including international
flights, transfers, 3 nights
at Brändön Lodge, a night
at TreeHotel, all meals,
and excursions
featuring the northern
lights, dogsledding,
and snowmobiling.
with dinner for SEK1,420 (£123)
pp. Yet you can find bunkhouses
and hostels that are not going to
break the bank, often with self-
catering facilities. Jopikgården’s
four-bed hostel bunkroom is
excellent value at SEK600 (£52).
Food & DrinkClassical Lapland ingredients bear
the hallmark of foraging and
hunting. Expect to be offered
hunted moose or reindeer during
your stay. A speciality around
Luleå archipelago is the expensive
Kalix caviar while berries, often
flavouring sauces, include
cloudberries, Arctic raspberries
and lingonberries. For fish lovers,
wild salmon and whitefish is
abundant, while breakfast spreads
typically feature dark breads and
sliced cheeses and meats.
Sweden is a co�ee culture
and has interesting local beers,
such as Öl, a birch beer, brewed
for the Treehotel.
Accommodation Treehotel (Harads; treehotel.se).
Set in forest and boasting six rooms
in a guesthouse and seven surreal
treehouses designed by leading
Scandi architects. A B&B night in
a treehouse costs SEK4,700 (£408)
for two people sharing.
WHAT TO PACK
For winter
activities a ski-suit
coverall will help
keep the freezing
cold at bay, as
will mitts for your
hands and thick-
soled insulated
boots. Don’t forget
a tripod.
⊲
Health & safety For the latest advice on entry
requirements, including regarding
COVID-19, visit the FCDO site
(www.gov.uk). At time of press,
the risk of catching the virus was
significantly lower in Swedish
Lapland than in the country’s
south. Follow local rules of social-
distancing and wear masks if
asked to do so. For information on
boosters needed, check in with
fitfortravel.nhs.uk for latest updates.
Exposure to the cold is
a significantly more dangerous
issue as extreme sub-zero
temperatures peak during winter.
Getting thereScandinavian Airlines (flysas.com)
new direct flight from London to
Luleå was recently postponed
but it’s no hardship transiting
via Stockholm’s well-organised
Arlanda airport. Fares currently
from around £400 return.
Getting around The author used private 4WD
transfers between each lodge but
Luleå can also be reached from
Stockholm by train. A night train
from Stockholm Central Station to
Luleä takes around 12 hours with
a suggested fare of £41 one-way
(omio.co.uk).
Cost of travelScandinavia is generally more
expensive than the UK, and
Sweden is no exception. Winter
excursions are pricey add-ons,
for instance Brändön Lodge offers
a northern lights snowshoe trek
Tree-top views Looking out
of a Treehotel
window
Getting the point One of Henrik
Andersson’s
reindeer
SWEDEN
48 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
1 MOOSE
Moose, aka elk, are the
largest member of the
deer family, with a large
male capable of weighing
500-600kg. Fairly common
throughout Lapland’s forests.
2 BROWN BEAR
You’ll need a tracker
to see the shy European
brown bear. Females
enter hibernation around
November to give birth to
cubs. They’re active post-
hibernation (May-June) when
forest berries are fruiting.
3 LYNX
You’d be lucky to see
this elusive small cat in the
wild. They are most active at
sunrise and dusk.
4 ARCTIC FOX
One of the most iconic
wildlife snaps is a white-
furred Arctic fox in a snowy
landscape. Smaller than a red
fox, their winter coat gives way
to hues of greyish-brown or
bluish-tinged fur in summer.
5 WOLVERINES
Pound-for-pound this
feisty small mammal is one of
the animal kingdom’s bruisers.
They number a
worryingly low 600-
700 individuals in
Sweden and are
di�icult to see.
Lapland’s Big 5
Map
illu
stra
tion
by S
cott
Jess
op; S
hutt
erst
ock
Jopikgården Lodge (Hindersön
Island; luleaarchipelago.com)
This informal lodge reuses a
farmstead and offers a variety of
accommodation. Deluxe rooms
cost SEK1,900(£165) per night for
two persons including breakfast.
Brändön Lodge (Luleå;
pinebaylodge.se) With a striking
location besides the Gulf of
Bothnia, the lodge has 15 log-cabins
with kitchenettes centred around
a main restaurant and bar. Guest
facilities include an outdoors sauna.
Planning guides Sweden Travel Guide
Archive article ● 7 places to appreciate Sweden’s
architecture – web exclusive
● Into the wild: Wolf-watching in
Sweden – issue 182
● West Sweden’s best kept
secrets – website exclusive
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/212
More online
B&B price per cabin per night for
two sharing is SEK2,695 (£235) while
full-board costs SEK4,235 (£370).
Further reading & informationvisitsweden.com – Visit Sweden
swedishlapland.com –
Visit Lapland
Sweden – Lonely Planet (2018)
My Aurora Forest – an aurora
phone app
laplandhusky.com –
dogsledding site
TOP TIP To shoot the lights,
the author used a
tripod; film speed
(ISO) was around
1,600; he set his
focal length at
infinity on his lowest
aperture setting
(2.8) and activated
slow shutter
releases, between
15-20 secs.
⊳
Car
l Joh
an; F
redr
ik S
chly
ter/
imag
eban
k.sw
eden
.se;
Mar
tin E
dstr
öm/i
mag
eban
k.sw
eden
.se;
Per
Pix
el P
eter
sson
/im
ageb
ank.
swed
en.s
e; S
ta�
an W
idst
rand
/im
ageb
ank.
swed
en.s
e;
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 49
Sweden offers space for all kinds of adventures, whether you’re exploring the vast national
parks, admiring the incredible architecture or taking time out to sample the food. When the
time is right, head to Sweden to seek out uncrowded, relaxing adventures that will soothe both
the body and the soul…
Discover more Swedish travel inspiration over on our website:
wanderlust.co.uk/discover/sweden-travel
F IN D YOU R S PACE IN SW E DE N
50 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
1 ABISKO, SWEDENAbisko National Park is 195km north of
the Arctic Circle, and it’s the country’s
driest spot. The cloud-free conditions
make it the best place in Sweden
to gaze at the northern lights. Some even
consider it to be the best place in the world to
see this natural phenomenon. Watch the lights
from the park’s Aurora Sky Station, which has
a terrace, lookout tower and indoor exhibition.
During the day, strap on skis and tackle Abisko’s
cross-country trails, or go downhill skiing and
snowboarding o�-piste. Alternatively, let
a husky musher guide you through the
wilderness, or try your hand at running your
own team of dogs. Stay at the Ice Hotel,
where you can snuggle up in a suite made
entirely from hand-carved ice.
auroraskystation.se; icehotel.com
AURORA BOREALIS
SEVEN OF THE BESTPLACES TO SEE
Do you want to increase your chances of striking gold - or at least glowing green – when it comes to the northern
lights? Here are the places that should be top of your list...
TOP TIP Avoid planning a trip
around a full moon,
as the light makes
it harder to see
aurora borealis.
You can also
boost your chances
of seeing the lights
by visiting these
seven destinations…
AW
L; D
rea
mst
ime
NORTHERN LIGHTS
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 51
2ROVANIEMI, FINLANDRovaniemi in northern Finland
(below) boasts some 200
nights of the most famous light
show on earth. On a reindeer safari at Salla
Reindeer Park nearby you can feed calves
and guide a herd to a campfire under the
lights. Meanwhile, Arctic Snow Hotel hosts
snow-sculpting workshops and trips to Lake
Lehtojärvi, where you can fish for pikeperch
and whitefish through holes in the ice. You
can also bake flatbread in a local home, go
snowshoe hiking and tour a forest on an
electric snowmobile. If you’re wearing
everything you brought and still can’t feel
your toes, then bed down in one of the
hotel’s glass igloos for 360° views of the
lights in cosy surroundings. You can also see
the lights from an outdoor hot tub before
relaxing in a sauna with walls made of ice.
sallareindeerpark.fi; arcticsnowhotel.fi
3LOFOTEN ISLANDS, NORWAYThe Lofoten Islands in northern Norway
(pictured left) are one of the world’s best
places to see the lights, which dance across
the sky like a conductor’s baton. Wild and
remote, the archipelago is o� the north coast, 170km north
of the Arctic Circle. Increase your chances of experiencing
aurora borealis by staying for a week and booking
a photography tour with Lofoten Tours. The Lofotens may
be home to the world’s most northerly surf resort, Unstad,
but if Arctic surfing under the lights doesn’t appeal, during
the day you can kayak among otters, go whalewatching
or fish for mackerel and pollock. The season for fishing for
cod starts in January. Stay at Nusfjord Arctic Resort and
soak in its open-air spa overlooking Nusfjord Harbour as
the lights pirouette above you.
lofotentours.com; nusfjordarcticresort.com
DID YOU KNOW?
The northern lights,
or aurora borealis,
are best seen on
a clear night from
September to April.
Green lights are
most common, but if
you’re fortunate, you
will also see swirls of
pink, red and purple.
⊳
Dre
amst
ime;
Ala
my;
Shu
tter
stoc
k
52 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
NORTHERN LIGHTS
6 LAKE LABERGE, CANADALake Laberge in Yukon
Territory is a wild area of
pristine beauty in the
north-west of Canada. Cathers Wilderness
Adventures is a family-run tour company
with a few log cabins for guests on the lake’s
east shore. O�-grid, once night falls it’s lit
by candles, making it the perfect spot for
front-row views of the lights reflected in the
glassy lake. After a late-night show, the next
day you can enjoy the surrounding forest
on a sledge pulled by dogs, which you can
learn to steer yourself. You can also soak
in mineral-rich hot springs in Whitehorse,
a city that’s a 40-minute drive away.
cathersadventures.com
5 ORKNEY ISLANDS, SCOTLANDNorthern Scotland is on the
same latitude as Stavanger
in Norway and Nunivak
Island in Alaska, so if you’re keen to see
the lights on a budget break consider
a trip to the Highlands or Orkney Islands.
On the mainland, Ackergill Pier, Dunnet
Beach and Thurso Harbour are all in dark
sky locations on the tip of Caithness.
Alternatively, take a boat from Thurso
Harbour to Mainland, Orkney, and take
your chances atop Wideford Hill. Stay at
the North Ronaldsay Bird Observatory
guest house in Orkney and join a walk
with an ornithologist. You may also spot
seals and orcas o� the coast.
nrbo.org.uk
Babies conceived
under the lights will
be lucky
The Chinese and Japanese
believe children conceived
under the lights will be
blessed with good fortune –
and good looks.
The lights ease the
pain of childbirth
…according to Icelandic
folklore, that is. Icelanders
also used to believe
pregnant women who
looked at the aurora would
have cross-eyed children.
If they turn red, run
Red lights are rare, and they
used to be considered an
omen of war and bloodshed.
They were seen in Scotland
and England just weeks
before the start of the
French Revolution.
Don’t whistle at them
Native Americans would
whistle at the lights to bring
them closer so they could
whisper messages to the
dead. Others believe that it
attracts spirits who take you
away. Clap and you’ll be safe.
7AKUREYRI, ICELANDOnce you’ve escaped the lights
of Reykjavík, Iceland is one of
the best places to see aurora
borealis. Take a boat tour from
Eyjafjörður Fjord in Akureyri, 100km from
the Arctic Circle. Even if you miss the lights
you may spot whales. During the limited
daylight hours, soak in Mývatn Nature Baths,
a geothermal outdoor lagoon between
Mývatn Lake and Dettifoss Waterfall. You
can also join a tour to explore ice caves
around Vatnajökull Glacier in the south.
Stay at Hótel Kjarnalundur near Akureyri and
view the lights from its outdoor hot tubs.
Or book Hotel Rangá in the south, which has
a rooftop observatory.
myvatnnaturebaths.is; kjarnalundur.is;
hotelranga.is
From lucky lights to bad omens, here are four superstitions triggered by the phenomenon of aurora borealis
4 FAIRBANKS, ALASKAWhile aurora borealis can be seen
in summer in Fairbanks, Alaska, this
is very rare – the lights are at their
most dazzling during the long
nights between December and March. For
uninterrupted views of the sky, drive up Ester
Dome, a 720m hill that’s home to grey wolves,
lynx and black and brown bears. Go native and
watch the lights while lying on your back in the
snow – just prepare for temperatures dropping
to -45°C. In the daytime, soak in a geothermal
mineral pool at Chena Hot Springs, which also
has an ice-sculpture museum and ice bar. Book
a chalet at Running Reindeer Ranch and you can
go hiking with reindeer by your side.
chenahotsprings.com; runningreindeer.com
⊳
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 53
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Floating lazily to the
north-east of
Trinidad, Tobago
couldn’t be any more
different to its
bigger, more bustling sister.
Tobago is the Caribbean stripped
back to its purest, where tangles
of rainforest, filled with wildlife
and a kaleidoscope of birds,
roll down to the coast
uninterrupted, and vibrant
patches of coral and crystalline
sea lick golden beaches.
Tobago’s authentic Creole
culture still flourishes without the
blemishes of modern builds, a way
of life that’s best sampled with
sweet rum and soundtracked by
steel pans. A rich array of natural,
cultural and eco-friendly
experiences await those who
visit this undiscovered corner
of the Caribbean, whether
for honeymooners seeking
a more adventurous alternative
to the traditional getaway, or
for travellers seeking a taste
of the real Caribbean.
But it’s all about savouring the
simple pleasures here, like
relaxing beneath a cooling
waterfall or glimpsing the flash
of a hummingbird. If this sounds
like your perfect idea of island
life, then you’ll fit right in...
Wind your clock to
TOBAGO TIME
With welcoming locals, a bounty of natural riches and an immersive culture, Tobago is an unspoiled Caribbean
secret waiting to be unwrapped…
⊲Nat
alie
Kriw
y
54 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
NATURE, NATURE EVERYWHERE
Tobago’s lack of large-scale
development has meant its wild
corners have been allowed to
blossom. The island might be
tiny but there aren’t just one or
two natural wonders to explore,
they’re littered all over Tobago.
Virgin rainforest and nature
reserves cut giant emerald
swathes across large parts of
the island and the grandfather
of them all is Main Ridge Forest
Reserve. Tracing much
of Tobago’s spine, it was
established by the British
in 1776, making it the oldest
protected forest reserve in the
western hemisphere. For
nearly a quarter of
a millennium, this status
has allowed Main Ridge to
grow old gracefully without
a sniff of human intrusion, with
the end result an ancient mix
of craggy peaks, pristine
rainforest and waterfalls
seeping from the island’s
central upper highlands.
Thanks to the multitude
of walking trails that web this
wilderness, accessing it is easy.
The most iconic is the Gilpin
Trace track, which blazes
right through a prime slice of
jungle and serves up a front-row
view of Tobago’s varied wildlife,
including armadillos, agoutis,
snakes and lizards. But any trail
you take in Main Ridge will have
your eyes constantly catching
the flashes of bright colour
that dart between the trees.
That’s because the reserve
is home to many of the island’s
260 species of birds, with the
headline attractions being
Tobago’s national bird,
the rufous-vented chachalaca,
and the white-tailed sabrewing
– so rare it was thought
to be extinct until 1974.
One of Main Ridge’s trails
leads to another of Tobago’s
natural icons: Argyle Waterfall,
the island’s highest cascade
(54m). Completely encased
by jungle, the waterfall tumbles
down a trio of levels that each
have a limpid-blue pool ideal
for a dip after your hike. But
Tobago’s most famous waterfall
is by no means the only
worthwhile one. Parlatuvier
Waterfall is topped and tailed
with a cooling pool while
Highland Waterfall, Tobago’s
tallest single-drop cascade,
is so hidden that most people
don’t even know it’s there;
what’s their loss is your gain.
Wildlife-spotting opportunities
abound across the rest of the
island, too. Few people know
of Corbin Local Wildlife Park,
a non-profit sanctuary set up by
hunter-turned-conservationist
Roy Corbin, which
provides a safe haven
for many threatened
and rescued species
before they are ready to
be released across the rest of
Tobago. Guided tours, often led
by Corbin himself, give you the
opportunity to spot wildlife
among the rainforest, such
as opossums and armadillos
scuttling along the jungle floor,
caiman on the banks of the pond
and birds such as manakins,
jacamars and motmots.
Tobago is a world-class
birding location and twitchers
can find more at the organic
estate of Adventure Farm
and Nature Reserve, which
is home to a huge array of
hummingbirds, or even offshore
at the satellite island of Little
Tobago. This seabird sanctuary
has become an important
home for the likes of
frigatebirds, red-footed boobies
and red-billed tropicbirds.
Pristine paradise(clockwise from this)
Swim at the base of
waterfalls; Pigeon Point;
enjoy the incredible
marine life; see wildlife
like birds and butterflies
�
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 55
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
UNDERWATER UTOPIA
Of course, this is the Caribbean
and so you’d expect a slew of
postcard-perfect beaches to
curl up with a good book on – and
Tobago doesn’t disappoint.
Pigeon Point is its most
celebrated stretch of sand and
its palm-pocked cotton-white
beach and thatch-topped jetty
are worth visiting just to admire
their tropical splendour. But not
all of Tobago’s fringes are solely
for relaxing on: Grange Bay is
the best place on the island to
catch a sunset and if you visit
Turtle Beach between March
and September you can witness
female leatherbacks nesting.
Mother Nature didn’t just
wave her magic wand on land.
Tobago’s natural glories extend
offshore as well, with a bounty
of marine life awaiting within
its waters. The snorkelling and
diving opportunities are virtually
endless and a wade into the blue
in any direction will have you
gliding among crayon-coloured
coral within minutes. To the
north, you can swim along
orange and yellow-tinged corals
and sponges around the
submerged Japanese Gardens,
glide among rays, reef sharks
and schools of tropical fish
around Booby Island, and come
up close to hawksbill turtles,
moray eels and spiny lobsters
among the coral-rich waters
of Cardinal Rocks. Perhaps
northern Tobago’s most iconic
diving spot, though, is London
Bridge, named so because of
its giant natural arch, whose
dramatic overhangs and
crevices play host to tarpon,
turtles and porcupine fish.
The south-west coast
harbours just as many
underwater treasures, with
Mount Irvine boasting two
excellent dive sites. The shallow
waters of the Wall are home
to lobsters and crabs hiding in
crimson-stained rocky crevices,
while the deeper Extension
offers you the chance to swim
with hawksbill turtles.
Elsewhere, spy nurse sharks
flitting around coral-encrusted
cannons left behind by the Dutch
East India Company, while the
MV Maverick is a former ferry
deliberately sunk to create
a new artificial reef. However, it’s
the east coast that arguably has
Tobago’s most spellbinding
underwater sight: Kelleston
Drain, where a 5m-wide brain
coral has been growing
undisturbed for centuries.
If you want to mix it up a little,
Kariwak Reef is a great place
for a night dive, where the
midnight-black waters come
alive with the likes of Christmas
tree worms and fire coral.
Beyond the fine array of
snorkelling and diving, Tobago’s
marine encounters display
remarkable diversity.
Above the surface, a unique
experience can be found at
serene Buccoo Bay, where
you can go horseriding through
its gin-clear waters. The calm
waters makes it perfect for
stand-up paddle-boarding,
too – both day and night. In
the sunshine, you can spend
a whole day paddling along
tranquil rivers, beside blush-
coloured beaches and over
kaleidoscopic coral reefs.
By night, your experience
couldn’t be more different. After
dark, Bon Accord Lagoon’s
sheltered waters are lit up an
electric blue by bioluminescent
plankton and every twist and
stroke of your paddle will be
akin to spilling a tin of neon
paint, creating an eye-popping
watery dance-floor. Mother
Nature’s magic has sparkled
in Tobago once again. ⊲Nat
alie
Kriw
y; B
rett
Tho
mps
on; A
dven
ture
Eco
Vill
as T
obag
o; V
isit
Toba
go; S
hutt
erst
ock
56 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
LIVE THE GOOD LIFE
Tobago’s wealth of pristine
nature only tells half of the
island’s story. With clocks
permanently set to island time,
the good life rules supreme
among its laid-back locals.
Thanks to its tiny size and lack
of modern development, visitors
and locals exist together in
good-humoured harmony. It’s this
intimacy with the culture that
allows a deep dive into
Tobagonian life right from the off,
a kind of immersion that’s rare to
find anywhere else. You can be
laughing with a local at a beach
bonfire, picking up locally hewn
crafts at the market in Store Bay
or helping fishermen to pull in
their daily catch. These golden
moments of local life are
everywhere in Tobago.
As well as encountering its
present, there are plenty of
remnants of Tobago’s past to
find, too. A number of forts cling
to its cliffs, legacies of an island
that was one of the most coveted
in the Caribbean, changing hands
more than 30 times in its history.
Fort King George is the most
well-preserved, built in the 18th
century by the British and named
in honour of King George III. Its
colonial-era barracks, officers’
mess and cannons are some of
the highlights of a walk around
the grounds, while its high perch
grants fine views over the capital,
Scarborough, and beyond. Of the
rest, Fort Bennett in Black Rock
boasts crumbling battery
remains and well-manicured
gardens, while the oldest, Fort
James in Plymouth, offers misty
views across Great Courland Bay.
The latter was built by the Duchy
of Courland (now modern-day
Latvia), who were the first
Europeans to colonise Tobago.
It’s a feat also remembered
in the adjacent contemporary
Courland Monument.
Tobago isn’t just full of solid
history, it’s also cloaked in
folklore. One of its biggest
mysteries is at the 18th-century
tombstone of Betty Stiven,
where the confusing inscription
– it speaks of her as a mother
without knowing it and a wife
without letting her husband know
it – has had baffled islanders
guessing her fate for nearly 250
years. For more of the island’s
legendary tales, villagers from
Les Coteaux bring them alive
in a theatrical stage show
performed at Tobago’s annual
summer Heritage Festival.
Another way to access
Tobago’s culture is through your
stomach. Trying its signature
dish of curried crab and
dumplings is a must, not only
because it’s super tasty but also
because it reflects its multi-
cultured locals, who hail from
India, China, Africa and beyond.
It’s one of the many dishes you
can tuck into at the island’s
harvest festivals, held in
a different village each week.
Tobagonians have a sweet tooth,
too, with a particular weakness
for chocolate. This love affair
is best explored on a tour at the
Tobago Cocoa Estate, where you
can unpick the island’s cocoa
history and help with all aspects
of the chocolate creation. Then
comes the best bit: sampling
some of the finished chocolates
with a glass of rum.
Culture awaits(clockwise from this) Tobago’s
rainforest canopy; kayaking; Fort
Milford ; enjoy the festivals
⊳
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
For more information, go to: tobagobeyond.com
DON’T TAKE JUST TAKE OUR WORD FOR IT
Tobago’s vast number of natural
jewels and resistance to
large-scale tourism has earned
it a hatful of eco-conscious
awards. North-eastern Tobago
has earned the UNESCO ‘Man
and the Biosphere’ designation,
an award that not only protects
local livelihoods and the fragile
ecosystems around them, but
also strengthens the bond
between the two. In turn, this
region has become the largest
in the English-speaking
Caribbean to gain such an
award. On Tobago’s fringes,
three of its beaches have
Blue Flag Pilot status,
a title given based on their
cleanliness, safety and
environmental awareness.
In these unusual times, Tobago
also has the nous to prepare
itself for visitors after the
COVID-19 pandemic. The
government has given grants
to a range of accommodation
owners, from hotels to self-
catering apartments, to help
them become COVID-safe and
adjust to new social distancing
measures. This and other
coronavirus-orientated
initiatives have led Tobago to
receiving a ‘Safe Travels’ stamp
from the World Travel & Tourism
Council, only awarded when
a destination has sufficient
health and safety COVID-19
protocols in place.
All of these accolades are
certainly impressive and show
Tobago is keen to protect both
its natural treasures and those
who visit them. After all, this is
an unspoilt island that makes
you instantly feel a part of the
family and where spotting
a brightly coloured bird or
swimming alongside turtles
garner the widest smiles.
Visi
t Tob
ago;
Shu
tter
stoc
k
BALItoBACK
Villages set in rolling rice
paddies, secret volcano hikes
and islets where plunging cliffs
drop to wild Indonesian sands –
we bike beyond the busy beaches
to find Bali’s true nature
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS ALEX ROBINSON
Biking Bali(clockwise from above)
The author hits the
road; guide Andy; locals
in the paddyfields
‘We were in a countryside of
palms and paddies, winding
through villages where
locals carried baskets of
fruit on their heads’⊲
BALI
60 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Andy was
slipping into
a trance. Eyes
half-lidded, he
was silent and
statue-still.
I could see my
friend’s mind was journeying, drifting
with the intricate steel-band
psychedelia of the gamelan angklung
orchestra, playing in the outer
courtyard of the pura (Hindu temple).
Incense swirled around him, carried
on the sea breeze, rising over the
sugar-palm-thatch roofs and dark
brick of the tiered meru pagodas,
sweeping out over the temple towards
the distant cone of Mount Agung.
When the pemangku (priest) began
to chant I could feel myself following
Andy. I was losing track of time,
slipping into the deep sea of the
subconscious. The niggling cramp of
kneeling on stone flags faded, and
anxiety I didn’t even know that I had
ebbed. Senses brightened – the
vibrant gold of our udeng headdresses,
the balsamic scent of the joss sticks –
I closed my eyes. Thoughts thinned,
time dissolved into the present
moment, which danced in intricate
gamelan patterns like waves on
a single ocean. I drifted into that
ocean’s depths, floating for who-
knows-how-long, and then falling
back into consciousness with a splash:
of water, thrown by the pemangku
from sprigs wet from a sacred spring.
When I opened my eyes the light was
lower. Next to me Gede, our guide was
smiling. He beckoned us out of the
temple and onto the vast black sand
beach: at Watu Klotok, in eastern Bali.
This wasn’t my first visit to the
island. A few years before I’d booked
the standard seaside holiday: days in
the sun on bar-crammed Seminyak
beach were punctuated with day-trips
to Mount Batur volcano, to rice
paddies and to Ubud village – where
Julia Roberts came to Eat, Pray, Love.
But that Bali was tired and
Torremolinos-touristy. I left with all
my books finished and determined
not to return. But without thinking
much I bought a paperback in the
airport shop: Island of Bali by Mexican
anthropologist, Miguel Covarrubias,
who had lived here in the 1930s. It
would pass the time, I thought. But it
did far more. The book filled me with
excitement – Covarrubias had been
changed by Bali. His walks in the
bird-filled forests that shrouded the
volcanoes, his temple visits, his time
with locals had filled him with a sense
of the miraculous. It seemed so far
from the Bali I’d visited. “Could it still
be there?” I wondered.
Back in BaliSo some years later I flew back to find
out, and to meet an old friend who’d
spent his life in search of the
miraculous in Asia. While the rest of us
had gone to university, Andy Axelrood
had gone to Beijing to study Chinese
medicine and then to Thailand –
nominally to teach English, but really
to spend years exploring Bagan and
Angkor, Luang Prabang and the Plain
of Jars. He’d be the perfect uno�cial
guide for my week-long trip to find
Covarrubias’ Bali, taking me up its
volcanoes, to empty beaches and
little-visited villages.
“I’ll meet you in Denpasar,” he’d told
me. “Pack light. And use a rucksack.”
The Andy who met me off the plane
was a touch thinner on top than
I remembered. But the big smile,
warm welcome and the fact that he
was the only Westerner wearing
a sarong assured me that little else had
changed, and that this visit to Bali
would be a thrill.
I didn’t know the adventure would
begin right away. No wonder he’d asked
me to pack light. We were travelling by
motor scooter. Before I had time for
questions, Andy was whizzing out of
the airport, out of the city. Within half
an hour we were in a countryside of
palms and paddies, winding through
wooden villages where local women
carried baskets of flowers and fruit on
their heads. I recognised those from
Covarrubias’ book – they were pura
offerings – left in shrines and temples
during Balinese rituals.
After a couple of hours we reached
Capella, Ubud, our hotel for the next
few days – nestled in a steep forest-
filled gorge that dropped to a tinkling
stream and a small, ancient shrine.
‘The walk was idyllic, a path
sloping up through rich rainforest.
Butterflies floated in front of us,
magpie-robins chirruped...’
�
⊲
BALI
62 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
“You’ll want to rest,” said Andy.
“Tomorrow we wake early. To
climb a volcano.”
Westward to CaturWe were back on the bikes before
dawn, going slowly on the narrow
roads in the half-light, dodging
sleeping dogs and scythe-carrying
farmers on their way to work. The sun
rose as we reached Tegallalang,
glistening orange over paddyfields that
dropped in stepped terraces down
narrow valleys. As I stopped to take
a picture, Andy promised me coffee and
a treat: we would take a detour to Tirta
Empul village. In the café he handed
me another surprise – a bag containing
a white shirt, a sarong and sash and an
udeng ceremonial headdress. “Change
in the loo,” he said, heading there
himself. “We’re going to take a bath.”
The bath was inside the local
temple, where we spent half an hour
under powerful jets of mountain
spring water, which gushed from
mossy spouts into a huge brick tank.
I emerged caffeine alert and buzzing
with life. I was glad of Andy’s surprises.
We retraced our route and then cut
across Bali’s central flatlands, riding
for an hour or so out to the west.
“We’re going the wrong way,” I said
when we stopped for water, pointing
back the way we came to the distant
smoking cones of Batur and Agung,
Bali’s famous twin peaks.
“That’s where the crowds go,” Andy
replied. “Which is why we are going
in the opposite direction.”
Another half an hour’s ride brought
us to a dirt road and a trailhead
where a young Balinese local, Kadek,
was waiting for us with a smile and
a pre-packed breakfast. There wasn’t
another tourist in sight.
“Make sure you eat the chocolate,”
Kadek said as we unwrapped breakfast.
“Mount Catur is a tough trail.”
Bali’s other volcano – set in the
centre of the island seemed easy at
first. The walk was idyllic. A well-cut
path sloped up through rich rainforest.
Peacock swallowtail butterflies floated
in front of us, magpie-robins chirruped
in the trees. All was tranquil and
Eden-like. Then the way narrowed
and climbed steeply. Before long we
were clambering over huge boulders,
heaving up rugged slopes, gripping
roots and vines. After two hours
I was dripping with sweat and
Bathing in the real Bali(clockwise from above)
Wading in the water at Tirta
Empul water temple; the
trance-enducing ceremony at
Watu Klotok; Tirta Empul;
moss-swathed temple
decoration; Watu Klotok
⊳
64 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
panting. After three, we’d reached
the cloud line and the boulders and
tree trunks were wrapped in blankets
of moist moss. The forest thinned and
we entered what looked like a clearing.
“Careful here,” Kadek warned.
“There’s a sheer drop just beyond
those bushes.” We shrunk back into
the trees and then climbed on,
eventually reaching the summit just
as the mist began to thin and then
dissipate, revealing a shrine of stupas
and a spectacular view.
Below our feet, shimmering in the
early afternoon light was a giant caldera
lake. Kadek pointed to a temple huddled
on its southern shore. A terracotta
village spread around it in grids of
streets, and a mountain ridge rose steep
above it, flanked by forest-covered
cones. Beyond was the Pacific Ocean,
ribboning into the two-kilometre
wide narrows of the Bali strait. Ijen
and Raung, the giant, sulphurous
volcanoes of east Java, loomed grey
and serrated in the distance.
The walk, the view, the mountain
itself were exhilarating. I felt alive, the
wind whistling in the pines had my
skin tingling, the presence of the
mountain itself was palpable and it
somehow seemed focused in the tall
temple meru-pagodas around us. Andy
and I joined Kadek as he laid a little
garland of flowers on the central meru.
All our moods were lifted… until we
discovered plastic bottles and bags
strewn around the shrine’s back end.
“Left by tourists?” I asked. “No.
Tourists don’t come here,” responded
Kadek, clearly angry, “This was left
by Balinese. But not Bali Aga – by
⊲
BALI
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 65
beaches were crowd-crawling. Andy
assured me otherwise and had
chosen Nusa Penida, a small island in
the Balinese archipelago just to the
south-east of Bali itself and easily
reached by ferry. We would avoid
Penida’s backpacker-busy western
beaches, he said, and head for the
island’s far east at Atuh.
The 40-minute boat crossing from
Bali was rough. The road out of the
port was rougher still, turning from
asphalt into broken paving and then
steep shingle, where we skidded
frequently. Villages gave way to
abandoned farms where dry tropical
forest was regrowing – a rare sight in
South-East Asia. Driving through
a quiet stretch I stopped suddenly,
when I saw a black-and-white bird,
perched in a branch.
“It’s a Bali starling!” I shouted to
Andy, sending the bird into the trees.
“They’re critically endangered!”
We were both shaky when we finally
arrived at the clifftop look-out, after
a hairy, two-hour drive. But Atuh
Balinese who don’t respect our
traditions and culture.”
“Bali Aga?” we asked. But Kadek didn’t
respond. We helped clear the litter. On
the way down the mountain he was
more forthcoming, explaining to Andy
why tradition meant so much to him.
“Everything in Bali is balance,” he
said, explaining that temples are laid
out with precise harmonic orientation.
“In pura temples, we Balinese meet
with our ancestors and with nature
itself. Pura are like a giant tuning fork
for the spirit,” Kadek laughed. “Pura
concentrates purity!”
“Litter, noise, waste… all these bring
disharmony,” he told us. “We call it
sebel. When nature is unclean, we are
unclean – tired, depleted – without
inspiration or energy. We need to
puras to purify ourselves.”
Out to AtuhAfter the mountain – and a few days
rest at Capella – we decided to try
and find unspoilt ocean. It would
surely be an impossibility. Bali’s
‘The pura temples are
where the Balinese meet
with their ancestors –
and with nature itself’
Catur without
the crowds
(clockwise from centre)
Walking through the
greenery on the Mount
Catur trek and the view of
the caldera lake from the
top; temple decorations
66 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
soon had us spellbound. The cliffs
spread in front of us – Dover-white
and twice as tall, crumbling to a long
beach of talc-fine sand. Turquoise
waves crashed along its length, and as
the late afternoon sun sank, it
burnished the scene in buttery-yellow
light. I saw monkeys in the trees. An
osprey soared on thermals overhead.
South-eastern serenityWe spent two days at Atuh, seeing
only intrepid backpackers and
enjoying pure sea and starry sky.
Then we returned to the mainland
ever more determined to spend our
final days here in search of
traditional Balinese life.
We decided to base ourselves by the
sea in Candidasa on the south-east
coast – a quiet, laid-back alternative
to Kuta and Sanur. Bali would show us
the way, we figured, and it did. When
we visited a temple set on a cape to
the east of Candidasa village, a local
young woman, surprised at seeing
visitors wearing temple gear, asked
us about ourselves.
“You’re looking for the real Bali?
Ring this man, Gede,” she said.
“He will help you.”
Even Andy was amazed by Gede.
He took us to places where Balinese
life seemed little-changed since
the time of Covarrubias – the
sleepy, rural Sidemen valley,
huddled under the bulk of Agung
mountain, and Tenganan
Pegringsingan – a hamlet tucked into
the hills above Candidasa itself.
⊳
BALI
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 67
at the heart of the village and in the
doorways of their cottagey homes.
These, Gede said, were Bali Aga.
He led us to a teak-wood house –
one of several in the village where Bali
Aga kept the old traditions alive. We
watched a sinewy old man hand-
engrave a Balinese book from reeds
smeared with charcoal, while his
daughter crafted textiles on a loom.
Sure, they were for sale, Gede said, but
they also made for local people – just
as they had been for centuries.
On our final evening Gede took us
to Watu Klotok. Here Andy and
I, again donned in our temple
sarongs and udeng head dresses,
were invited to take part the
ceremony and lulled by incense and
gamelan into a trance.
In his hushed tones Gede told us that
in Tenganan we would meet Bali Aga.
“Who are they?” we asked.
“The true Balinese”, he said.
“Those who preserve our original
culture. This is one of a handful of
true Bali Aga villages.”
Tenganan was as beautifully tended
and as true to its roots as an Anglesey
hamlet – little flower-scented cottages
with gorgeous gilt-wood doors;
a peaceful temple set over a groomed,
green lawn. The men wore sarongs,
the women decked out in beautiful
hand-woven lace tops. They greeted
us with warm smiles but no one tried
to tout for business. They were more
intent on catching up on local gossip,
chatting with each other on the steps
of the beautifully manicured temple
Sat on the beach afterwards, we
felt as if the tension of life had been
taken by the surf and the wind. Our
minds were quiet. Every moment
seemed to hold so much more: senses
were brighter – the gold of the sun
dipping into the ocean, glistening
off the wet black sand, the calls of
terns rising over the rumble and hiss
of the waves. Gede came and joined
us. He felt closer to us somehow,
united by this timeless Balinese
experience. I thought Covarrubias
would have approved.
“Maybe you begin to understand
Bali,” said Gede quietly. “Our rituals,
our pura, how they call nature to
clean our hearts, clear our minds,
sanctify our souls. Tell people about
this when you leave.”
Double trouble
(clockwise from below)
Guides Andy and Gede;
the cliff edge ofNusa
Penida; temple
decorations
⊲
BALI
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 69
Vital statisticsCapital: Denpasar (Bali);
Jakarta (Java, Indonesia)
Population: 4.3 million (Bali);
264 million (national)
Languages: Balinese, Indonesian
Time: GMT +8 hrs
Visas: Not required by UK nationals
for stays of up to 30 days.
Money: Indonesian Rupiah (£1 to
IDR 18,700); ATMs throughout Bali,
cash dollars widely accepted.
When to GoBali is equatorial, so it’s tropically
warm all year round with average
temperatures in the mid twenties.
October-March is the wet
season the wettest months.
December to February are the
wettest months, with as much
as 35cm of rain falling in January.
November has high humidity with
temperatures hitting an average
maximum of 31°C.
April-September is the dry
season, with occasional tropical
Footnotes
Bali
THE TRIP The author travelled with
Audley Travel (audleytravel.
com, 01993 838 110), who
o�er a 7-night adventure
in Indonesia staying at the
Capella Ubud, Candi Beach
Resort and in Sidemen, all
with breakfast. Prices from
£3,600pp (based on two
sharing). Price includes return
flights with Malaysia Airlines
from Heathrow to Bali via
Kuala Lumpur, transfers and a
guided hike up Mount Catur.
Cost of travelExpect to spend around £25 per
day staying in a decent hostel
and eating cheap. Staying in
air-conditioned hotels and using
better restaurants will cost you
between £60 and £100 a day.
Luxury is available from £150 a day.
AccommodationBali has a huge choice of hotels,
but to see unspoilt Bali, you’ll need
to base yourself in the rural interior,
or the beaches in the east and
north. There are simple places to
stay on Nusa Penida.
Capella (Ubud; capellahotels.
com) boasts tented wooden villas
tumbling down a steep, forested
valley, to a sacred spring-water
stream overlooked by tiny forest
temple. All are mood-lit, decorated
with handicrafts and fronted by
a hardwood deck with a private
pool. Doubles from £570pn, B&B.
Candi Beach Resort (Candidasa;
candibeachbali.com,) is low key
but luxurious, with rooms set in
a frangipani-scented garden next
to a tranquil seashore temple.
The half-kilometre silky-soft
strand at Karangasem and the
sheltered, forest-backed cove
at Bias Tugle are close by. Most
rooms overlook the ocean, there’s
a spa, infinity pool and bookable
visits to Bali Aga villages. Doubles
from £40pn, B&B.
Lempeh Jungle (near Atuh;
booked though online services),
rooms are simple – bamboo and
thatch, with shower bathrooms
and tiny terraces, but the location
is stellar – a few minutes’ walk
from Atuh’s plunging Durdle Door-
dramatic cliffs and sweep of white
sand. Doubles from £25pn, B&B.
WHAT TO PACK Light long and
short-sleeved
shirts and shorts,
a sun hat and
glasses and plenty
of (reef friendly)
sunscreen. For
the Catur volcano
trail you’ll need
walking boots with
ankle support,
long trousers and a
long-sleeved shirt.
⊲
showers. September is the driest
month, with around 46mm of rain.
Health and SafetyFor the latest advice on entry
requirements, including regarding
COVID-19, visit the FCDO site
(www.gov.uk). For information on
vaccines and boosters needed,
check in with fitfortravel.nhs.uk
for latest updates.
Crime is generally restricted to
petty theft and credit card scams.
Indonesia has a zero-tolerance
policy towards drugs.
Getting thereThere are no direct flights from
the UK to Bali. Malaysia Airways
(malaysiaairlines.com) fly to
Denpasar, the island’s capital via
Kuala Lumpur from £730 [pre-
pandemic price].
Getting AroundTaxis and drivers are easy to hire
on Bali. Guides are an essential
if you are to get off the beaten
track. Gede Widanta (or ‘Widi’,
pronounced ‘Weedi’) is reachable on
[email protected]; WhatsApp:
+62 82 146 938 439; from £45 per
day, prices depend on group size.
Gede can also organise drivers.
Nusa Penida is 50 mins south of
Bali by ferry (marlinfastboat.com,
IDR 550,000 [£30] rtn). Motor
scooters can be hired in shops
throughout Bali (and at the dock in
Nusa Penida) for as little as £10
a day. Away from main towns,
roads are narrow, windy and
often with potholes. Local and
backpacker driving can be erratic.
Eat, stay, love The Capella sits on the
outskirts of Ubud; (above)
traditional crafts in Tenganan
BALI
70 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
1 JATILUWIH
RICE TERRACES
Steep valleys of stepped rice
fields and fewer visitors than at
the better-known Tegallalang
rice fields near Ubud.
2 VOLCANO VIEWS
Every day, hundreds of
tourists hike up Batur volcano,
Bali’s most famous peak for
wonderful volcano views. Mount
Catur sees only a handful of
those, with equally wild views.
3 CANDIDASA
Serene sands, traditional
Balinese villages and locals who
are still pleased to see a visitor.
4 SIDEMEN
Sleepy villages set in rolling
rice fields in the shadow of the
giant cone of Agung volcano.
5 WEST BALI
NATIONAL PARK
The largest remnant of Bali’s
ancient rainforests, fringed
by coral-sand beaches quiet
enough for nesting olive ridley
sea turtles.
6 NUSA PENIDA
Crumbling 100-metre high
cliffs sheltering coral-fringed
coves and, as yet, no big resorts
or tour parties.
7 UBUD
The village where Julia
Roberts came to Eat Pray Love
is now a town teeming with
tourists, but there’s still charm
to the winding alleys lined with
temples, boutiquey restaurants,
craft shops and day spas.
8 KUTA
Time for one last night out
on the town? Kuta beach’s
busy strip has resorts by
the dozen, all manner of
restaurants, bar-lined streets
and a buzzing nightlife scene.
And it’s right near the airport for
that return flight.
8 Bali Highlights
Map
illu
stra
tion
by S
cott
Jess
op
Food & drinkPan-Indonesian food like nasi
goreng (spicy stir-fried rice with
chicken, prawns and shredded
omelette) and satay (kebabs of
chicken served with a peanut sauce)
are common. Bali has its own local
specialities too – like babi guling
(spit-roast suckling pig seasoned
with turmeric, ginger, galangal and
chillies) and pepes ikan (spicy fish,
steamed in a banana leaf).
Planning guides Indonesia Travel Guide
Archive article ● West Indonesia: Bali and beyond
– issue 115
● West Indonesia: Bali and
beyond – issue 138
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/212
More online
Further reading & infoIsland of Bali (Periplus Classics;
1937) by Miguel Covarrubias. Still
fresh and fascinating today.
Ring of Fire: An Indonesia Odyssey
(1988) – award-winning book/
documentary of Lawrence and
Lorne Blair’s 1980s voyages
through wild Indonesia. Available
through indonesianodyssey.co.uk
Lonely Planet Indonesia (2019) –
by Ian Stewart; useful guidebook
TEMPLE ETIQUETTE
Remove shoes
before entering a
temple; never point
feet at the shrine,
or stand higher
than the priest;
ceremonies will
require traditional
clothing.
⊳
72 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Phi P
hi Is
land
Vill
age
Beac
h Re
sort
; Les
ley
Fish
er; K
oh Ju
m B
each
Vill
as; K
haol
ak M
erlin
Res
ort;
Nut
ty’s
Adv
entu
res
Turtles hatch
and scuttle
down white
sand beaches.
Elephants
stomp through
thick jungle while clear seas
hide a rainbow of coral. This
is Thailand, and its incredible
landscapes and wildlife
deserve to be protected.
This year has seen most of
the world shut off to tourism,
but Thailand has discovered
a silver lining to this problem.
Without the usual crowds
of visitors, the country’s
extraordinary natural habitats
have been given time to heal.
It is now arguably more
important than ever to ensure
Thailand’s wildlife and natural
spaces are protected when
visitors return. Enter the
Responsible Thailand Awards,
which recognises the
outstanding contributions
that companies have made
to grow Thailand as
a sustainable tourist
destination. Drum roll please,
for the 2020 winners…
Marine & NatureWINNER: Phi Phi Island Village
Beach Resort (for its Marine
Discovery Centre)
This resort enjoys a secluded,
pristine location and offers
many educational activities,
including at the on-site Marine
Discovery Centre. Run by
a resident marine biologist, the
judges were delighted that the
resort is doing more than just
paying lip-service to
conservation and the green
agenda. One judge said: “It is
a really practical project that
will be of benefit not just to the
hotel, but to the neighbouring
community as well. It also offers
an outstanding range of
activities for their eco-
conscious guests.”
phiphiislandvillage.com
AnimalWelfareWINNER: Samui Elephant
Sanctuary, Koh Samui
This sanctuary rescues
elephants from the tourism or
logging industry. The judges
commended the sanctuary’s
schools programme,
presentations to tour operators
and elephant medical clinic.
The judges were “impressed
to see the reach of high ethical
standards, expanded through
a new second sanctuary. We
were also encouraged by how
the principles of elephant
welfare are communicated
to the visiting public”.
samuielephantsanctuary.org
Runner up: BEES – Burm and
Emily’s Elephant Sanctuary
Community-Based TourismWINNER: Kindred Spirit
Elephant Sanctuary
This sanctuary in Chiang Mai
impressively continued to
support elephants and their
local community, despite being
closed due to the pandemic.
The judges said: “This
demonstrates a laudable
commitment to the livelihoods
of the local community. This
includes involvement in
homestays, the provision of
English lessons and – crucially
in 2020 – support during the
economic ravages of
COVID-19. A really impressive
approach; we salute them.”
kselephantsanctuary.com
Runner up: The Tuk Tuk Club
2020 WINNERS
RESPONSIBLE THAILAND
AWARDS
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 73For more information, visit responsiblethailand.co.uk
HOW THE WINNERS WERE PICKED
In July 2020 we asked
Wanderlust readers and the
UK travel trade to nominate
the Thailand-based
organisations and resorts
that they felt were most
deserving of recognition for
their green initiatives and
tireless efforts to promote
sustainable tourism.
The criteria for judging
included the sustainability
of each of the projects and
organisations, their
demonstrable successes,
and the legacy of benefits
for both Thailand and
international visitors.
It was difficult to choose
the final winners , but the
decision was finally made
by a judging panel that
consisted of: Derek Moore
(AITO); Clare Jenkinson
(ABTA); Martin Symington
(travel journalist); and Lyn
Hughes (editor-in-chief
of Wanderlust).
Eco-Lodge/Eco-HotelWINNER: Koh Jum
Beach Villas
The judges found much to
admire about Koh Jum Beach
Villas in Krabi: “From the
low-energy lighting to the
availability of bikes; from their
work with Trash Hero to the
planting of sea grass and
mangroves, this is an eco-
property in so many varied
ways. We were impressed by
the zero-interest loans for
locals to start businesses, and
to the attention to detail in
tackling a broad range of
environmental issues. They get
guests involved in their
initiatives too. Truly impressive.”
kohjumbeachvillas.com
Runner up: Banyan Tree
HotelWINNER: Khaolak Merlin Resort
This eco-resort has a vast
tropical garden, which is home
to hundreds of species of flora
and fauna. The judges said:
“From their work with the Love
Life Foundation and their
development of a water project,
this is clearly a hotel with an
eco-agenda which lifts it above
other properties. Their slow
loris project tops their list of
achievements. A combination
of uncompromising green
standards in the resort, with
support for the local
environment and wildlife, has
made this a winning entry.”
merlinkhaolak.com
Runner up: Pimalai
Resort & Spa
Green StepsWINNER: Nutty’s Adventures
This tour operator is dedicated
to sustainable travel, focussing
on community-based tourism
operated in a way that benefits
all stakeholders. It now offers
accessible tours for travellers
with disabilities.
The judges were refreshed
to see a tour operator with
a determination to work with
the local community. They also
noted: “Their innovative
programmes for clients with
disabilities and visual
impairments makes them
stand out among the tour
operators of Thailand.
A worthy winner.”
nutty-adventures.com
Runner up: The Mangosteen
74 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Making tracksWalking Machir Bay’s 2km
stretch of sand is a fine
way to build a thirst
ISLAY
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 75
Whisky, walking, wilderness and some more
whisky thrown in for good measure. We visit the
Inner Hebrides to enjoy the taste of Scotland
Whisky, walking, wilderness and some more
whisky thrown in for good measure. We visit the
Inner Hebrides to enjoy the taste of Scotland
WORDS ROBIN MCKELVIE
Hebridesof the Queen
The
76 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
“This is a ‘what
a time to be
on the planet,
in this room,
right now’ type
of whisky,”
beamed Ron,
the head tour
guide at Ardbeg. Despite the ravages of the
pandemic I agreed with Ron; not just on the
45-year-old dram. This was, and is, a special time to
be at my favourite Islay distillery, the whitewashed
dame that has stood firm against the Atlantic since
Queen Victoria was on the throne. It was and is
a special time to be on Islay too, a life affirming
oasis; a safe port, even, in the COVID-19 storm.
I’ve long had a special place in my heart for the
‘Queen of the Hebrides’. It’s hard not to fall for an isle
alive with sweeping beaches, epic seafood and no
fewer than nine whisky distilleries; Islay is a real life
treasure island. This time, though, it was not mere
sightseeing I sought, but an escape from the
maelstrom of the pandemic. I’d taken five days out of
the confines of my home office, but could Islay work
her magic so quickly in this most surreal of times?
Heavens, havens & HebridesI was in good company flying to Islay. There may
have been only five passengers on our Loganair Saab
340, but over autumn and winter thousands of pairs
of geese flock here to escape the worst ravages of
winter. Indeed 60% of the world’s barnacle geese and
a quarter of its endangered Greenland white-fronted
geese seek sanctuary on Islay. This may be northern
Europe, but the Gulf Stream ensures the mercury
rarely dips too low and snow is rare. My traditional
autumn Canary Isles escape had been quarantined
off, but on this early morning flight, as Islay seared
into view in the peach-tinged light, its sandy shores
wrapped around low hills and gnarly bays, the island
already felt much more than a substitute.
Islay may currently be pleasantly devoid of the
crowds, but it’s no backwater as local taxi driver
Hughie Currie was quick to point out. “Islay was the
centre of the isles for centuries and we’ve not
forgotten those days,” he said with a quiet smile ⊲
Distilling the sunLagavulin Whisky Distillery
overlooks Lagavulin Bay;
(below) Finlaggan
Prev
ious
AW
L Th
is S
prea
d A
WL;
Ro
bin
Mc
Ke
lvie
ISLAY
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 77
‘We were the only people here enjoying this implausibly dramatic backdrop. The only sound, high above, was the geese on their seasonal sojourns’
78 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
‘I followed the sound of the Atlantic surf in search of the ocean. It was not long until my shoulders dropped and I smiled as white sands spilled out
all around when I descended from the dunes’
AW
L; R
ob
in M
cKel
vie
Heart of the Hebrides
(clockwise from this) The wooden
walkway that takes you to Eilean Mor
(Large Island), the HQ – and burial place
– of the Lords of the Isles; Port Ellen;
Ardnahoe; the Paps of Jura across the
Sound of Islay; whisky and food pairing
at Ardnahoe; seals
ISLAY
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 79
and hint of cheekiness in his eyes; a look you get
often on Islay. Hughie was right though. The mystical
Lords of the Isles, the MacDonalds, held sway over
huge swathes of the Hebrides from Finlaggan, their
Islay stronghold until James IV’s ascension to the
Scottish throne in the 15th century. Today Prince
Charles holds the title of Lord of the Isles.
We made for Finlaggan to delve further. The first
time I came I was disappointed: I’d been expecting
a sturdy fortress and boastful battlements. That is not
Islay’s style. So powerful were the Lords that they
didn’t need to fortify Finlaggan. As we eased out to
the wee island that houses the epicentre of their
world, the centuries slipped back to when they sipped
claret here as they surveyed their expansive empire.
It’s an arresting spot, borrowing its implausibly
dramatic backdrop – the legendary Paps of Jura
– from the neighbouring island of Jura. We were the
only people here and the only sound, high above, was
those relieved geese enjoying their seasonal sojourns.
Whisky, wonders & wandersHughie’s taxi proved an ideal way to explore the
distilleries over a couple of days, although the island
has tried to make visiting eco-friendly too with
a footpath/cycle track connecting the southern trio
of Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. The distilleries
are on the ball with COVID-19 as I found at
Bunnahabhain where they took my temperature
before I was allowed into their bonded warehouse.
I found my guide David swathed in thousands of
litres of whisky and over 130 years of tradition. He
charmed me through a tasting where the craic
flowed as freely as the fine malts. “There is a dram for
everyone, literally, whether you like wine, port or
sherry,” he enthused as we enjoyed our merry dance.
But two distilleries in particular struck me in these
testing times. Ardnahoe is the no-expenses-spared
new kid on the block, a literal breath of fresh air:
I stood on their terrace gazing out over the Sound of
Islay. “You can see seals and dolphins out there,”
said my latest distillery guide in the café, with its
cinematic widescreen windows. “Whales too.”
The second distillery experience was another
thrilling one and I don’t just mean the whisky. In
a nod to the pandemic, the guide from tiny
Kilchoman farm distillery met me down at the wild
and wildly beautiful ‘tasting room’ of Machir Bay,
with its 2km necklace of sand. The guide’s smiles
were infectious and soon spread to my new friend,
Michael, a banker from London, who had booked the
same COVID-era outdoor tasting. He was here to
seek escape too. We both knew what from, but this
was not a time for talking elephants. We found our
solace as whisky tales soothed with a dram in hand
and gulls swirling above on the brisk breeze. There
was time to wander the sands too. We made time.
My base for the days of whisky, the Port Charlotte
Hotel, slotted into place like everything seems to on
this trimly-run island. I reached it via a wee side trip
to Portnahaven (Hughie offers more than just a taxi
service), a sleepy fishing village that fights a daily
battle with the Atlantic. Hughie insisted I had to see
a sign. It was ‘just’ a large splosh of paint on a wall
saying ‘OK’. Hughie suggested it may have been to
reassure returning servicepeople from the Second
World War that they were now safe. In this
COVID-ravaged world it seemed as fitting as the
local bus stops, which sported free hand gel.
It felt more than OK at the Port Charlotte Hotel,
a whitewashed oasis right on Loch Indaal, with
a blinking lighthouse completing the feeling of
sitting inside a postcard. One morning the first rays
of sun eased me up and I eked outside to find Islay
slowly rousing. I thought it was just me savouring
the explosion of burning orange and ochre, but then
I spotted a seal as friendly as a Labrador and two
locals ‘enjoyed’ a bracing morning swim.
Dining out on Islay felt equally joyous; I didn’t eat
badly once. At Port Charlotte it was hard to choose
between a heaving seafood platter and Islay beef
fillet; at the Islay Hotel it was tennis ball sized scallops
then local lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and, at SeaSalt in
Port Ellen, more lobster alongside seafood specials
and Islay beef and lamb. Owner Yan Wang explained:
“Islay is like one big larder. It’s almost embarrassing
what we have here with our seafood fresh from the
boats, bountiful farms and the seasonal game too.”
One of the culinary highlights was at my other
Islay base – Glenegedale House. Owners Graeme
and Emma Clark conjured up a seafood feast that
would struggle to be fresher – “The boats come in at
5pm and it’s on your plate by 7pm,” she said.
Emma insisted all guests at her award-winning
hideaway get out exploring Islay and she was full
of advice. She couldn’t believe that in half a dozen
visits to Islay I’d not walked on Big Strand, at 12km
the island’s longest beach. I made amends,
following the sound of the Atlantic surf in search
of the ocean. It was not long until my shoulders
dropped and I smiled as white sands spilled out all
around when I descended from the dunes.
Two wheels & (more) whiskyNot content with my venture to Big Strand, Emma
asked Islay E-Wheels, a new outfit run by a lovely
young couple, to bring me one of their e-bikes. I set
off south and soon left the modern world behind.
After shaking off the Victorian distilleries east of Port
Ellen I was alone. Utterly alone, for the first time
since the pandemic restrictions began in February.
It felt weird, then joyous. I was cheered by a deer
skipping around the tree line and intrigued by the
‘Dun’ on my OS map. No one had mentioned it, no
guidebook includes it. There are 1,000s of these
wee ancient hill fort sites dotted around Scotland.
I bashed down to it through gnarly vegetation and
emerged on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic.
The Mull of Kintyre smiled back to my left, while
the island of Ireland hunkered down under
�
⊲
80 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
low-slung cloud on the other flank.
Islay offers the sort of mindfulness that
courses struggle to teach.
I was enjoying being away from the
world now and spotted a starched white
sand cove. Again it was nothing on my
map. I slipped down from the dun and
was greeted by an otter meandering his
way along the rocks. In the bay the seals
were busy sunning themselves, though
a couple couldn’t resist splashing over to check me
out. I caught sight of porpoises too, flirting their
way into view then skipping off into the depths
before I could get my phone out.
My last stop was, of course, at Ardbeg, where many
of the myriad layers of Islay gloriously fermented in
my mind, or rather distilled. The sea salt filled the air
and added a tang to the slowly maturing whisky on
the Atlantic battered coast. It was sunny now; my
face warm. For the first time in months I was
thinking about nothing bar just breathing and the
sun. They took my temperature – ah yes COVID, I’d
forgotten about you – but that was ok. It was all more
than OK on Islay. Ron was about to tell me what
a time it was to be on the planet, in this room, right
now, and I thoroughly, spirit soaringly agreed.
AWL;
Shu
tter
stoc
k M
ap il
lust
ratio
n by
Sco
tt Je
ssop
1VISIT A
DISTILLERY
No Scottish isle boasts as
many whisky distilleries
as the hallowed ‘Whisky
Isle’ so get stuck in to the
nine distilleries. Ardbeg,
Lagavulin and Laphroaig
tempt in the south,
eponymous Bowmore in
the island capital;
Bruichladdich sits
across the other
side of Loch Indaal
while Kilchoman
lies just inland
from Machir Bay;
Ardnahoe recently
joined its siblings out east –
Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila.
2EXPLORE
BOWMORE
The island capital is a
whitewashed charmer. Its
most striking building is
the ‘Round Church’, said
to have been built in its
unique shape so that the
devil did not have any
corner to hide away in.
3TAKE A BOAT
Getting out on the
water is the best way to
follow in the boatsteps
of the Lords of the Isles
and appreciate Islay’s
geography and history,
as for thousands of
years getting here by
sea was the only way.
Islay Sea Adventures
operate a range of trips,
with everything from
wildlife sailings in search
of sea eagles, otters and
whales, through to foodie
orientated seafood
adventures. islay-sea-
adventures.co.uk
4KAYAKING
THE COVES
Kayak Wild Islay are the
guys if you want to get
out on the cobalt Atlantic.
Explore the island’s wildlife-
rich and endlessly scenic
coast. You can choose
to tackle a half day, or
make a whole day of it.
kayakwildislay.co.uk
5ESCAPE
TO JURA
Islay’s neighbour is
a brooding, deeply
mountainous beast. It’s
much wilder than Islay
and indeed sports only
one real road, a distillery,
a shop, a hotel, a bar and
a population of around
6,000... red deer. Only
around 200 hardy souls
today inhabit remote Jura
(a short ferry trip from
Islay) in a land ravaged by
the Highland Clearances.
argyll-bute.gov.uk
6GET INTO GIN
The rise and rise in
popularity of Scottish
gins has not gone
unnoticed by the islanders.
Bruichladdich’s Botanist
is already fairly well
established; more niche
is a relative newcomer,
Nerabus Islay Gin.
islayginltd.com
7 GET ON YOUR
HIKING BOOTS
Islay has a great range
of hikes and most are
easy to tackle even in
winter. The walk along Big
Strand is a bracing one.
Even more dramatic is
pushing around from its
southern tip in search of
Soldiers Rock, a striking
rock pinnacle that echoes
Orkney’s
Old Man
of Hoy.
If you only do 7 things on Islay...
TOP TIP The highest hill,
Beinn Bheigeir, at
491m, is a bit of a
yomp and you will
need to work out
transport there and
back. Make sure you
have the correct
gear, have a map
and compass and
tell someone where
you are going.
�
ISLAY
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 81
Footnotes
Islay
TOP TIP If you like whisky
check out the
Lochside with
its atmospheric
whisky bar and
waterfront terrace.
They stock the
heavenly – and
no-longer-made
– Ardbeg 17-
year-old.
lochsidehotel.co.uk
Vital statisticsCapital: Edinburgh
Population: 5.45 million
Language(s): English,
Scots, Gaelic.
When to goApr-Jun Midge-free spring and
early summer offers a good
chance of dry weather with the
serious bonus of the explosion
of wildflowers. June also offers
long, light days with spectacular
brooding sunsets.
Jul-Aug Nominal summer, which
means the mercury can top 20°C,
but rain is a frequent visitor.
Sept-Mar The ‘low season’ is
peak season for migratory birds.
The mitigating effects of the
Gulf Stream temper the worst
of the frosts and coupled with
the maritime climate reduce the
chances of snow, though you will
still need all your layers. The island
feels on the cosy side of hygge.
Health & safety Islay feels very COVID-secure
with signs outlining Scottish
Government health advice as
you enter every village, bus stops
stocked with free sanitising
gel and temperature checks at
the distilleries. The island has a
dedicated COVID-plan too and
sticks rigidly to the latest Scottish
Government advice. You should
check this before travel – it does
vary from Westminster (gov.scot/
coronavirus-covid-19).
Reassuringly the islanders take
their COVID-19 responsibilities
seriously and you should too
with mask use de rigueur – non-
compliance will be met with a polite
reminder. The cumulative effect
is that Islay feels safer than most
places in the UK and in much of the
rest of Europe at the moment.
Getting there There are CalMac (calmac.co.uk;
foot passengers £13.80 return)
ferries to Islay from Kennacraig
in Kintyre, but they make for
a long journey as you have to
get to the ferry port from your
arrival point in Scotland.
A much quicker option – and
arguably not much less green given
the multiple transport option of
road/rail and ferry – is flying from
Glasgow with Loganair (loganair.
co.uk; returns from £109). The
scheduled flight time is 45 minutes,
but in reality you are often spirited
over in under half an hour. The
added bonus are the epic views
en route as Scotland unfolds like a
tourist office promotion video and
Islay looms tantalising into view.
Getting around There is a limited local bus
service – timetable information
available at argyll-bute.gov.uk.
Currie Taxis (curriestaxis.com)
offer bespoke taxi tours, including
distillery transport.
E-bikes are available from Islay
E-Wheels (islayewheels.co.uk) who
can deliver to your accommodation.
They can also supply Thule rear-
mounted child seats.
Islay Car Hire (islaycarhire.com)
offer hire at the airport.
Cost of travel Prices for food, travel and
accommodation on Islay are
similar to the Scottish mainland,
though accommodation costs
tend to rise in summer and during
the annual whisky festival in May.
Islay is not a ‘cheap’ island as
such, but Scotland enjoys some
of the most liberal land access
laws in Europe so you can
wild camp if you follow the
Outdoor Access Code (www.
outdooraccess-scotland.scot/
practical-guide-all/camping).
It’s worth budgeting extra for
eating out as the local produce is
superb and also for picking up a
souvenir bottle of whisky. Look out
for ‘Distillery Only’ bottlings, which
often appreciate in value. That is,
of course, if you don’t drink them!
Further reading & information Mainstream guide coverage of
Islay is quite sparse; The Rough
Guide to Scottish Highlands &
Islands (2017) and Lonely Planet:
Scotland’s Highlands & Islands
(2019) cover the basics.
Islay – The Land of the Lordship
(Birlinn, 2017) by David Caldwell,
provides a more in-depth delve into
the island and its myriad layers.
OS Landranger 60 handily covers
the whole island.
Wild About Argyll (wildaboutargyll.
com) offers information on Islay and
the surrounding area.
islayjura.com – island-based site.
Modern folk/pop crossover
Hebridean band Tide Lines
(tidelinesband.com) provide
an easily accessible, engaging
background to exploring Islay.
The good stu�... ...and where to get it. The
distilleries at Ardbeg
and (top) Laphroaig
WIN! A post-lockdown trip to the Caribbean
ADVENTURE AWAITS IN SAINT LUCIA
82 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 83
1 Natural beautyChances are, you’ve
already admired Saint
Lucia’s natural charms without
realising – because its Piton
peaks, which rise straight from
the sea, are one of the
Caribbean’s most famous sights.
They’ve stood sentry on the
south-west coast for at least
200 centuries – long before the
arrival of the early Arawak tribes,
the European colonial forces, or
the adventure-hungry travellers
that now come to climb them
(or at least toast them with
tropical cocktails). At 798m,
Gros Piton sits slightly taller than
Petit Piton (743m), but both are
striking reminders of the island’s
volcanic past – as well as a huge
source of national pride,
emblazoned everywhere from
banknotes to beer bottles.
But they’re just the start. From
rainforest to reef, Saint Lucia
is rich in untamed treasures –
a land of thundering waterfalls,
idyllic shores and snorkelling
sites teeming with life. It’s also
home to one of the world’s only
Babonneau, where you’ll find zip
lines, canopy walkways and
nature trails aflutter with birds.
Of course, Saint Lucia’s
coastline is a beach-lover’s
paradise: the west of the island
(the leeward side) is typically
calmer than the east, with
sheltered shores and soft sand.
Happily, it’s home to the best
snorkelling sites too – such as
Anse Cochon and the cove at
Anse Chastanet resort (people
come from all over the island to
swim in its reef). Take the plunge
on a snorkel or scuba trip,
or sign up for sea kayaking,
windsurfing and sailing at one
of the many watersports centres
– what better way to banish
those lockdown cobwebs?
For the epicurious,
there are myriad adventures
to choose from, such as cooking
workshops and rum-tasting
sessions. Saint Lucia’s cocoa
plantations give a fascinating
insight into the history and
culture of the island: take a
tour of Fond Doux cocoa farm
‘drive-in’ volcanoes, which
is far wilder than it sounds, with
mud-bathing pools and hot
springs. Love birdwatching? You
can hike rainforest trails to see
if you spot any of the 176 bird
species. Keen diver? Set your
sights on the sub-aqua slopes
of those Pitons. Fascinated by
history? Head to the north-west
coast to find Pigeon Island
National Landmark’s authentic
ruins, cannons and military
relics, and tall-tales aplenty
of pirates and plunderers. Walk
along the golden sands and then
climb Fort Rodney for views as
far as Martinique. That’s day one
sorted – what else awaits?
2 Get your heart racingFor starters, you’ll want to
get out on foot or bike, following
inland trails to secluded
cascades and hilltop viewpoints
– marvelling at the pristine
jungle scenery as you explore.
Or, take an open-air gondola ride
through the treetops at
Rainforest Adventures in
Saint Lucia, and two of its amazing hotels – Windjammer Landing
Villa Beach Resort and Anse Chastanet – are offering one lucky
winner and a friend the island adventure of a lifetime. Tempted?
Here’s what this Caribbean jewel has in store...
Sea for sore eyesSoufrière seafront;
(right) snorkelling
at Anse Chastanet
⊲
stlucia.org
COMPETITION
or Rabot Estate – owned
by global chocolatiers Hotel
Chocolat – to learn about the
journey from bean to bar, and
pick up a few sweet souvenirs.
3 A rich cultureThere’s no such thing
as a stranger in Saint
Lucia – just a friend that you
haven’t met yet. It might sound
cheesy, but it’s true: the
islanders’ warmth and welcome
are legendary. Saint Lucia is full
of independently-run
businesses, from beach cafés
serving up cappuccinos and
calypso tunes to unique
enterprises like the Tet Paul
Nature Trail – where local guides
give tours of the medicinal
plants, organic farm and
traditional house.
Wherever you venture, you’ll
meet island characters such
as Hattie Barnard, the co-owner
of Choiseul Art Gallery.
A renowned painter and author,
she’s passionate about the
local creative scene and
exhibits her work alongside
pieces by other Saint Lucian
artists. Zaka Art Café in
Soufrière also puts island
art in the spotlight; while
Eudovic’s Art Studio – run
by Vincent Joseph
Eudovic and his family –
specialises in
beautiful hand-carved
wooden sculptures.
To really get to know
the island, it’s definitely
worth hiring a local guide.
While you can see the main
sights under your own
steam, an insider will give you
unrivalled insight into Saint
Lucia’s story: whether that’s
its cocoa plantations and
colonial legacy, or its wild
wonders such as bird watching,
forest hiking and geology. Over
at Diamond Falls Botanical
Gardens, the team of green-
fingered guides bring the
island’s natural history to life,
while Greenwood Terrace
serves up fun cooking
classes and fascinating
harvesting tours in
a gorgeous garden.
4 Amazing accommodationFrom family-run
guesthouses and sea-view villas,
to boutique hotels and five-star
resorts – the island has
accommodation options to suit
every budget and style. And if
you’re our lucky competition
winner, you’ll enjoy four nights
at Windjammer Landing Villa
Beach Resort and three nights
at Anse Chastanet.
The former, up on the north-
west coast of the island –
overlooking Labrelotte Bay – is
all about beachfront relaxation:
its villas and guestrooms blend
into the forested hillside, just
a few sandy steps from the sea.
You might not consider yourself
an all-inclusive aficionado now,
but wait until you’ve got five
à la carte restaurants on your
doorstep, rum-laced cocktails
served on the beach, and
unlimited paddle-boarding,
snorkelling and sailing. A dive
centre puts the island’s wrecks
The peak of paradise (clockwise from this) Zip-lining over
the canopy at Soufrière; Windjammer
Landing Villa Beach Resort; Dennery
Waterfalls; Anse Chastanet; local
smile; kayaking
�
84 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
and reefs within easy reach, and
there are a whole host of day
trips available too: nature tours,
zip-lining, whale-watching
safaris – and much more.
Over at Anse Chastanet, in the
south of the island, you’ll have
2.4 sq km of tropical forests and
coast to explore, with coral reefs
just a leisurely paddle away, with
opportunities for diving on-site
for those wanting to venture
further. The entire estate is
criss-crossed with walking and
cycling trails, leading to two
soft-sand beaches, sea-breezy
coconut groves, and a handful
of secluded rooms and cottages.
It’s luxurious, yes, but the
resort’s unusual side is what
makes it so special, from its
treetop restaurants to its guided
birdwatching hikes, sea
kayaking trips, and cocoa
plantation tours. And look: the
Piton mountains are tantalisingly
close, so you'll have front-row
views of those famous peaks.
What's more, the premium
rooms have one wall which
is entirely open, giving the
illusion that you can reach out
and touch the famous peaks
from the comfort of your bed.
5 Food for thoughtIn true Caribbean style,
Saint Lucia’s signature
dishes put the island’s bounty of
fresh ingredients first. Seafood
is the star of the show: lobster,
lambi (conch) and saltfish are
national favourites, served
as spicy fritters, thick soups
or straight from the barbecue.
A rainbow of veg is grown on the
island, from green bananas
(known as figs) to golden apples
– while a dollop of hot sauce
adds some real Creole spice!
Saint Lucians like it as piquant
as possible, made from Scotch
bonnet chillies, so be sure to
order a cooling Piton beer, too…
There are some incredible
restaurants all over the island,
serving up local specialities
in beautiful surroundings. At
Ti Bananne, in Rodney Bay, live
music and local art set the scene
– while The Cliff at Cap offers
panoramic sea views. At
Windjammer Landing, seek out
the Upper Deck grillhouse: its
fresh seafood and fiery sunsets
make for a spectacular supper.
Saint Lucians are passionate
about their food, so you’ll find
lots of great independent
restaurants too – like Orlando’s,
in Soufriere and Rodney Bay,
which is run by celebrated local
chef Orlando Satchell. He’s
scooped numerous awards for
his signature dishes, which are
known all over the island – like
Piton Poulet, a spicy-sweet
medley of grilled chicken,
ginger and coconut. Fancy
picking up a few island recipes?
At Anse Chastanet, you can take
gourmet cooking classes and
learn about cocoa harvesting
at the hotel’s organic farm. Not
a meat eater or fancy something
different? Don't miss the hotel's
vegan restaurant, Emeralds.
6The best of both worldsFor all of its rural beauty,
Saint Lucia has plenty of bright
lights too. The island can loosely
be divided into two ‘halves’: the
north, where you’ll find the
bustling city of Castries and the
lively sights around Rodney Bay
– and the south, which has
a quieter and more natural vibe.
That’s not to say that the north
is overrun with tourists: it’s
simply the hub of local life.
Castries and Rodney Bay Village
are home to a varied cluster of
restaurants and shopping areas,
as well as entertainment venues
galore – from art galleries to
beach bars. And if you want
a glimpse of local nightlife, head
to the Gros Islet street party on
Friday evenings. Here, locals let
their hair down for a night of
barbecue, rum punch and music
– it’s the island’s most famous
‘jump-up’ (party), and
everybody’s invited.
Rather than choosing between
the north and south, a two-
centre trip lets you explore the
whole of the island. Try a few
days near Rodney Bay, enjoying
the buzz and beaches – before
heading south to discover the
mountainous scenery and Piton
views. That’s what we’d do – and
it’s what you could look forward
to as well if you’re the lucky
winner. Thought the Caribbean
was just sunloungers and
swimming pools? Think again.
We bet that you’ll never have so
much fun being proved wrong...
To enter the competition, visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions
stlucia.org
COMPETITION
Enter nowThe Saint Lucia Tourism
Authority is offering one
reader and a friend the
chance to win four nights at
Windjammer Landing Villa
Beach Resort on a bed &
breakfast basis and three
nights at Anse Chastanet
on a half board basis, with
return economy seats to
Saint Lucia from London
Gatwick with British
Airways, with all transfers
included. For your chance
to win, simply answer the
following question:
What is the capital
of Saint Lucia?
a) Piton
b) Rodney Bay
c) Castries
To enter and for full terms and
conditions and data policies, go to:
wanderlust.co.uk/competitions
Closing date: 10 February 2021
Next Issue
The most inspiring destinations to rediscover your Wanderlust...
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wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 87
PA
GE
93Pocket guide:
St Ives
We take Simon
Reeve’s advice and
head to Cornwall
to discover its
beaches and cafes
are even more inviting
out of season.
Discover
98PA
GE Real wonders of the world
We get our mokoro out to celebrate
Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
Travel Tips | Expert Advice | Pocket Guides
Solving (most of) your travel dilemmas
PA
GE
88Reader travel tips
Spectacular wildlife,
green natural beauty, the
best spot for a cocktail
and a whole lot of pura
vida. Here’s how the best
travelled readers on this
planet – that’s you – like
to experience Costa Rica.
PA
GE
92Just back from...
Wicker toboggan racing,
waterfall abseiling and
a spot of horseriding too!
Reader James Willcox
tells us about his
post-lockdown active
break in Madeira.
PA
GE
97Travel quiz
Experienced travellers
appreciate that there’s
more to the humble
passport than meets
the eye – but how much
do you know about
them? Test your
knowledge in our quiz.
PA
GE
90Top 10 highlights:
Washington, DC
I don’t know if you’re
aware, but there’s been
some sort of election
going on in the USA?
Okay, although you’ve
been seeing a whole lot
of the United States’
capital recently, there’s
so much more to it than
old men griping at each
other. There’s a
magnificent spread of
museums, galleries as
well as Arlington
Cemetery, all providing
vital, impressive and
often moving historical
context for those
stars and stripes.
88 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Fabulous wildlife including dolphins
and sloths. And enjoy a sundowner
at Cosmic Crab – a lovely resort with
a bar over the water to see the sun
go down. Perfect end to the day!”
Stella Ellis
Hidden gemRincón de la Vieja “The Catarata Escondida in Rincón
de la Vieja (right). After the four-
hour or so hike to get there you
come to an open-air waterfall,
but if you follow the trail about
another 100m you come to
a completely hidden waterfall
among the forest. Our tour group
had Christmas lunch there in
2019 and it was magical.”
Edmund Murray
Shake it up!La Fortuna “Had some of the best fresh fruit
milkshakes in Costa Rica, available at
most restaurants. Don’t miss a pina
colada milkshake from POPS ice
cream parlour while overlooking
Arenal Volcano in La Fortuna.”
Gail Ashington
Whether it’s advice on the best places to see Costa Rica’s wildlife and natural beauty, where to enjoy a cocktail or a shake, or tips on saving money and how to get around, you have it covered…
Go wildManuel Antonio NP“We saw birds, monkeys and long
trails of very busy ants carrying
leaves, but the highlight for me was
sloths dangling from the trees.
It gets busy at weekends but is
well worth a visit. Bear in mind that
the park is closed on Mondays.”
Alison Lawrence
Treasure islandsBocas del Toro “Do go to Bocas del Toro province –
a few small islands in the Caribbean. Shutterstock
Travel tipsYOUR TIPS ON...
COSTA RICA
Hanging aroundCosta Rica has a wealth
of wildlife, including
the brown-throated
three-toed sloth
See the sightsView from the summit
of Cerro Chirripó as
Turrialba Volcano erupts
in the distance (above);
sunset over the Pacific
Ocean, as seen from the
Osa Peninsula (below)
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 89
DISCOVERREADER TIPS
rather ‘exciting’ – such as Cerro de la
Muerte (aka ‘the mountain of death’)
– but this is all part of the experience.
It gives you the freedom to visit
off-the-beaten-track places at your
own pace, for that ultimate sense of
pura vida.” Caroline Lywood
Creature featureTortuguero National Park “Don’t miss a visit to Tortuguero
National Park, only really accessible
by boat, where you’ll find plenty of
opportunities for wildlife watching
both by trekking and by boat. Guides
can take you to see the turtles
coming ashore to lay their eggs by
night. Don’t forget your waterproofs
– it rains most days.” Fiona Hyde
Zest for lifePandora village“In provincia Limón, next to the
Caribbean coast, is a small village in
the jungle called Pandora. A local
biologist lives there with his family.
You can stay with him for free and in
exchange you will help build trails
and plant trees. I planted a lemon
tree there in 2014 and this year it had
its first lemons.” Ewa Treszczotko
Getting aroundIn the driving seat“Hire a car and take a road trip.
Driving in Costa Rica is absolutely
worth the extra cost and turns
a holiday into an unforgettable
adventure. Some of the roads can be
Rest and relaxationGolfo Dulce “Take the boat transfer from Golfito
to Golfo Dulce in the heart of the
Costa Rica rainforest to relax and
unwind at Playa Cativo eco-lodge.
There are outstanding views from
the gardens, which supply the lodge
with fresh produce.” David Brierley
Money mattersCost-saving tips“To save money, eat plates of gallo
pinto [rice and beans] at small
family-run places. Pay for groceries
and other small purchases with local
currency and travel during the low
season (aka the rainy season) for
reduced room rates.“ Carol Thomas
Guided toursLa Fortuna “The Bogarin Trail in La Fortuna is
easily accessible from the centre
of town, no car needed. It has
great guides and it’s a lovely
place to just wander around
first thing in the morning.”
Claire Walsh
Visit wanderlust.co.uk to submit your tips.
Next month’s topic is: Travelling solo
Ellis Valentine, Asia Specialist
at Scott Dunn, gives us her
top tips for travel to India…
Where to go? The Golden Triangle cities of Agra, Delhi and Jaipur will give you your fill of busy Indian life, while the rural regions of Rajasthan and numerous national parks will show you a different side – soak up the landscapes in total tranquillity and even go in search of tigers. Best time to go? The best time to travel is October to March, when the whole country is dry and bright and temperatures are at their most comfortable. September is also nice and often a bit quieter. April and May get very hot but are excellent for tiger safaris. Top tips? Spend some time chatting to the locals. You’ll gain a more enriching insight into India’s culture and you’ll make their day too.
Call me on 020 8682 5000 for more India travel tips, or visit scottdunn.com
Insiders’ guide to...INDIA
High spotCerro Chirripó “Costa Rica’s
highest peak,
Cerro Chirripó
is a must. It’s a
hard trek to the
top but seeing
both the Pacific
Ocean and the
Caribbean Sea
is a great
enough reward.”
Sue Beardwell
Natural beautyOsa Peninsula “Even If you have to sell
your grandmother do it,
do not miss a few days on
the Osa Peninsula. Some
tour companies don’t
include it because of the
boat/plane journey but it’s
simply the most beautiful,
quiet and friendly place,
with abundant wildlife.
I’d also recommend you
fly one way and get the
boat the other way so you
see as much as possible
from the sky and the sea.”
Julia Pollock
10HIGHLIGHTS
TOP
90 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
With a new president about to get his feet under the desk at the Oval Office, we take a look at the stirring icons, noble monuments and celebrated museums that the USA’s capital has to offer
DK
; Dre
amst
ime;
Sh
utt
erst
ock
1National Museum of American History
A mix of artefacts from ‘America’s
attic’ and contem porary
exhibits, ranging from
polit ical campaign buttons
to historic examples of the
Star-Spangled Banner.
2 The White House The most elegant and
familiar of all the world’s
political residences, the
White House has witnessed
some of the most consequential
decisions of modern history.
Washington, DC
Presidential residenceThe iconic White House
with the bronze
equestrian statue of
President Andrew
Jackson in Lafayette
Square in the foreground
3 US Capitol The design of the US Capitol
(right) combines ancient tradition
and New World innovation,
perfectly invoking the spirit of
US democracy.
4 National Museum of Natural History
There are a lot of exhibits to
explore, from the famous
Rotunda elephant to the
fascinating Hope Diamond,
as well as the Insect Zoo
and a Butterfly Pavilion filled
with live specimens.
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 91
DISCOVERTOP 10 HIGHLIGHTS
5Arlington National Cemetery
Four million people each year
visit these rolling lawns studded
with the headstones of America’s
war dead (above). A moving and
reflective experience.
6Mount Vernon George Washington’s estate
and mansion is a perfect example
of the gentleman-farmer roots of
many of America’s founding fathers.
7 National Air and Space Museum
Reportedly, this is the second
most visited museum in the world.
The artefacts within trace one of
man kind’s greatest quests.
8 Washington National Cathedral
The ancient and modern come
together in this, the ‘national house
This feature is adapted from the DK Eyewitness Top Ten Washington, DC travel guide, which contains illustrations, tour suggestions and a pull-out map. See dk.com
of prayer’, from the Gothic
architecture to the Space Window.
9 National Gallery of Art
The National Gallery’s vast
collection makes it one of the
greatest art museums in the world.
10National Zoological Park
Animals from across the world’s
varied habitats can be seen and
studied at this internation ally
recognised leader in animal care,
breeding of endangered species
and public education.
See the sights(below, left to right)
Pyramid at the National
Gallery of Art; sculpture of
Christ in the Washington
National Cathedral; giant
panda at the National
Zoological Park
Historic homeMount Vernon – the
plantation house of
George Washington
and his wife, Martha
92 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
DISCOVER READER REPORT
Shut
ters
tock
SIZE MATTERS
“We queued for ages to
see the Mona Lisa. I was
underwhelmed by the
‘stamp’-sized image barely
visible from the back of the
throng.” Eve Blyth
ON THIN ICE
“In Beijing I was invited
to a production of local
dancing on ice. We arrived to
be told the ice had melted
and they would try to do the
production on roller skates
instead.” David Jackson
HOLY MOLY
“The Vatican. We queued
for ages to get in and it ends
up being three hours of
drudgery, with crowds and
guards shouting ‘No photo’
all the time. Then, by the time
you escape and are hungry,
the local restaurants charge
£15 for a thin, crusty tomato
crisp.” Steve Voller
LOVESICK
“I’d always wanted to go
on a gondola in Venice.
As a surprise my husband
arranged for a gondola ride
as an anniversary present
and I was so happy, but after
only a few minutes I became
nauseous and spent the rest
of the trip with my head over
the side, retching!”
Angella Willis
Your tales of…
DISAPPOINTING ATTRACTIONS
Go online to share your
travel tales on next
month’s topic: ‘Christmas
in a strange land’
The highlights: Swimming in the natural lava rock
pools in Porto Moniz. Racing down the roads in the
famous wicker basket toboggans in Monte!
Snorkelling with whales and dolphins in the open
ocean. Feeling the adrenaline while abseiling
down 60m waterfalls getting soaking wet!
Exploring sun-kissed Porto Santo on horseback.
Must see: The summit of Pico Ruivo (the
highest peak on the island at 1,862m above sea
level). It’s a fabulous hike with jaw-dropping
landscapes and rock formations that will take
you high above the clouds.
Top tip: Don’t go everywhere by car. You’ll miss
the wonderful scenery. Get the latest bus
timetable, hop on a bus for a few euros and
enjoy the fantastic views as the bus weaves up
and down the narrow mountain roads and
through remote villages.
Cautionary tale: The island’s levada walks are great
for venturing out into the wilderness. But many
involve transiting pitch-black tunnels, some over
a kilometre long, so take a bright torch!
I wish I’d known: The finishing point of the
toboggan ride isn’t actually in downtown Funchal.
It’s a 30-minute downhill walk back to the city
centre. Alternatively, you can get a bus or taxi.
Anything else: Madeira is a perfect getaway during
the COVID-19 pandemic. Everyone that enters the
island (residents and visitors) gets tested free of
charge at the airport. Results within 12 hours.
Just got back from somewhere
amazing? Visit wanderlust.co.uk or email
us at [email protected]
wanderlust.co.uk
Reader James Willcox and his partner, Katie, escaped for a post-lockdown active break in Madeira
MadeiraJUST BACK FROM…
Village lifeSt Ives out of season
means near-empty beaches, bagging
a cosy pub’s best seats and wild walks on nearby moorland
Shut
ters
tock
Pocket Guide
Your cut-out and keep travel companion
BRITISH BREAK IN...
ST IVES, CORNWALL
wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 93
The changeable
autumn light showed
off the luminous
beauty of St Ives.
Even when it was
cloudy there was a soft focus
glow across the whitewashed
cottages of the town, and the
sands and waves would shimmer,
regardless at which of the several
beaches you were looking over.
Then, when the sun broke
through, it was like being in the
Mediterranean, the sea would
turn cerulean blue, and you knew
why so many artists have based
themselves here over the years.
More prosaically, the gulls were
no surprise as they strutted
around the harbour’s benches
scavenging for chips and ice
cream cones. But then a cute
wader, the type of bird you see
in the shallows, came bobbing
along, seemingly combing the
tourist detritus too. A quick
Google revealed it was a
turnstone, and that St Ives is
known for its population
around the harbour.
It was probably revelling in the
unexpected bonus of a glut of
visitors. “Everyone is saying that
they’ve never known such a busy
October!” said the vicar of St
Senara’s Church in nearby Zennor.
With lockdown lifted, Cornwall
had seen a steady stream of
visitors well into autumn, much
to the relief of businesses that
depended on tourism.
Fortunately St Ives was able
to absorb the extra visitors, even
with social distancing in action.
With fewer visitors than in summer, the Cornish fishing village of St Ives has a tranquil
feel to it for those that are lucky enough to explore it out of season, says Lyn Hughes
ASK A LOCAL“When
low tide
allows there
is something quite special
about walking the length
of all of St Ives’ beaches
while barely leaving the
sand. Start at Porthmeor
Beach, hop over to
Porthgwidden then stroll
around the headland
towards the harbour
along the back of
Smeaton’s Pier, before
heading toward your
final destination,
Porthminster Beach.”Elizabeth Davies, Sails Loft
It was busy but not crazy-summer-
busy. The narrow maze of streets
and former fisherman’s cottages,
now mostly holiday lets, absorbed
the incomers. The independent
shops were ticking over nicely,
and while the more popular
restaurants were fully booked
for evening meals, there were
enough options to not go hungry.
Each beach has its own
personality, so there was ample
space for exhilarating windswept
walks with the dog, and on a walk
on the moors just outside town
there was no other soul in sight.
Within a few hours I felt recharged.
Forget those few weeks of high
summer when the world seems
to descend on this honeypot.
Out of season is the time to
revel in its charms. ⊲
94 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
Start with a spot of modern art,
much of it local, at Tate St Ives,
then enjoy a coffee overlooking
Porthmeor Beach. A steep walk
takes you to the atmospheric
Barbara Hepworth Museum and
Sculpture Garden – you can buy
a combined ticket.
If art isn’t your thing then learn to
surf. Alternatively, watch newbies
and experienced sufers alike battle
Atlantic rollers from Porthmeor
Beach Cafe. You’re spoilt for lunch
choices, such as the famous
Porthminster Beach Cafe or
its hidden gem of a sibling,
Porthgwidden Beach Cafe.
Alternatively, simply pick up a
Cornish pasty from St Ives Bakery.
Get your shopping fix by
mooching along Fore Street
checking out the characterful
shops and stocking up on local
crafts, soaps and foodie delights.
Independent galleries dot the
town. For ceramics, visit St Ives
Ceramics on Fish Street.
Enjoy an early evening beer at
The Sloop Inn or The Castle Inn
before enjoying seafood at One
Fish Street (pre-book), one of the
beach cafes above or a burger
at Blas Burgerworks.
Day 1
POCKET GUIDES BRITISH BREAK
1 Learn to surf
If you’ve ever been even
half-tempted to have a go
there are several schools
in and around town. St Ives
Surf School, for example
(stivessurfschool.co.uk), is
one of the most renowned
companies and teaches
surfing on Porthmeor
Beach or paddleboarding
and kayaking on the placid
waters of Porthminster.
2 Take a hike
With the combination
of coastal path, beaches
and moorlands, St Ives
is a walker’s delight. St
Michael’s Way is a 19km
pilgrimage trail running
from Lelant to Marazion,
home of St Michael’s Mount.
For a shorter (6.5km) scenic
walk, take the train from St
Ives to Lelant, then walk back.
3 Beach life
How many beaches
does St Ives have?
Depending who you ask it
has anything from four in
town (actually five) to 300
within the area! Each has
a di�erent character with
some vast expanses of sand,
while others may only appear
at low tide. Porthkidney
is 3km from town, and gets
far fewer visitors than the
well-known ones.
4 Seek seals
Look for seals on one
of the regular boat trips that
leave from St Ives’ harbour.
To the west of the town
is Seal Island, home to
a colony of pinnipeds,
while another colony can
be found to the east at
Godrevy Lighthouse.
Dolphins are increasingly
seen around the waters too.
Get active. Keen walkers can walk
the South West Coast Path to
Zennor – it’s rough and parts need
scrambling (wear walking boots),
but it’s a beautiful bit of coastline
with the Atlantic crashing on one
side and gorse-filled heath and
brooding moors on the other. Allow
three to four hours and time it so you
can catch a bus back (travelinesw.
com). Alternatively, hire an ebike
(stivesbikes.co.uk) and take the
coastal road for the same views.
At Zennor check out the
600-year-old seat with a mermaid
carving in the village church and
ask someone the story about the
connection between mermaids
and the village. Have lunch at the
lovely traditional Tinners Arms or
walk/cycle a bit further for lunch at
the renowned gastropub The
Gurnard’s Head (pre-book).
Depending on your mode of
transport, spend the afternoon
exploring the dramatic coast and
the windswept moorlands. The
moors are dotted with neolithic
standing stones and stone
circles. For an insight into
Cornwall’s tin-mining past, visit
Geevor Tin Mine or see the oldest
working mine-serving steam
engine at Levant Mine.
Day 2
Getting there: Trains from London Paddington stop at St Erth; from there take the scenic branch line to St Ives. If driving, be aware that parking can be di�icult to find in town. The nearest airport is Newquay.
Stay at: Sail Lofts (thesaillofts.co.uk) is a collection of luxury self-catering apartments. It has
its own parking eight minutes’ walk away and is well situated just a stone’s throw from Porthmeor Beach and within a few minutes’ walk of the harbour. Some apartments are dog friendly and being so close to the beach and the grassy slopes of what is known as The Island means it is great for walking your pooch.
The essentials
4 THINGS TO DO IN
CORNWALL
Sim
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wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021 97
DISCOVERTRAVEL QUIZ
1 In which century was the concept
of a passport first mentioned?
2 According to the Henley Passport
Index 2020 (which notes how many countries each nationality can visit visa-free), which nation’s passport is the most powerful?
3 So, how many countries do you
think passport holders from that nation can visit without a visa: 91, 151 or 191?
4 According to the same index, which
nation’s passport is the second most powerful?
5 According to the same index,
which European nation’s passport is the most powerful?
6 According to the same index,
which nation’s passport is the least powerful in the world?
7 According to the same index, which
nation’s passport is more powerful: UK, US or Australian?
8 Passports can come in different shades
of which four colours?
9 Do you know the colour of the USA’s
standard passport?
10 Is it true that the Australia
passport features an image of a kangaroo?
11Finland’s passport has a flick-book
cartoon in the corners of its pages, featuring
which animal?
12 Is it true that the northern
lights are depicted inside the pages of a post-2014
Norwegian passport?
13People don’t just have
passports in the UAE, individual birds of a type of raptor do, too. Which type of bird?
14 What colour are the
passports belonging to the majority of Peruvian citizens?
15 Is it true that the Canadian
passport front cover features an image of Queen Elizabeth II?
16Which country’s former passport
design featured the image of a breastfeeding woman?
17Japanese passports have
which flower on the front?
18What does Easter Island’s
unique passport stamp look like?
19The sleekly-designed Swiss
passport features an abundance of which symbol?
20Egypt’s general passport design
is an unusual shade of which colour?
Xmas Travel QuizHow well do you know your global passports? Test your wits against this exclusive
extract from The Wanderlust World Travel Quiz Book, and work out whether you’re in the fast-track queue to success or just stuck for hours in passport control...
Unique Passports
21Following the country’s exit
from the EU, the UK passport changed colour as of mid-2020. Which colour is it now?
22 Is it true that you’ll find
the Komodo dragon and ra�lesia flower within the pages of Indonesia’s passport?
23What colour is New Zealand’s
passport and the writing on it?
24 Is it true you can get your
passport stamped at Machu Picchu?
25Each state gets its own
page of Mexico’s standard passport. How many Mexican states are there?
Find the answers at Wanderlust.co.uk/
ChristmasQuiz
This quiz has been adapted from the Wanderlust World
Travel Quiz Book (out now, £8.99). For more info visit Wanderlust.co.uk/QuizBook
DID YOU KNOW?
Wildlife is especially
concentrated
around the delta’s
largest island.
Chief’s Island is a
protected area that
was once a hunting
ground for a
tribal chief.
It’s hard not to feel humbled while
exploring the Okavango Delta.
This vast space in the north-west
of Botswana is one of the seven
natural wonders of Africa.
As one of the world’s few inland
deltas, the region is also a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. From December
to February, rainfall from Angola’s
highlands flows into Botswana’s
Okavango River, flooding the plains
to form a delta that unfurls across
the Kalahari Basin like veins on a leaf.
When water levels begin to recede
in August, lagoons and waterholes
form around 150,000 islands.
As well as crocodile, hippo and
buffalo, expect to see the world’s
largest population of African
elephant. There are also lion, giraffe,
leopard, black and white rhino, blue
wildebeest, zebra and spotted hyena.
The delta is rich in birdlife too, with
482 recorded species – 24 of which
are threatened. Look out for lilac-
breasted roller, southern ground
hornbill and helmeted guineafowl.
To protect the wildlife, capacity
is reduced, and activities are
sustainable. You can explore on
horseback or by boat, but the most
authentic way is in a mokoro (dugout
canoe) – just as a bushman would.
Okavango Delta, Botswana
Wade in the waterA herd of Cape bu�alo
cross a river in the
Okavango Delta
19.6510° S, 22.9059° E
Shut
ters
tock
98 wanderlust.co.uk January/February 2021
DISCOVER THE REAL WONDERS OF THE WORLD