walter van beirendonck
TRANSCRIPT
Walter Van Beirendonck (Brecht, 4 February 1957) is a Belgian fashion designer. He graduated in 1980 from the Royal Arts Academy in Antwerp. Together with Dirk Van Saene, Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee (graduated in 1981) and Dirk Bikkembergs (graduated in 1982) they became known as the Antwerp Six.
Since 1983, he issues his own collections. They are inspired by the visual arts, literature, nature and ethnic influences. His unusual color combinations and a strong graphic influence are characteristic for his collections. In 1997, he designed the costumes for the U2 "PopMart Tour". In 1999, he was awarded the honorary title of "Cultural Ambassador of Flanders". In 2001, he curated the 'Fashion 2001 Landed-Geland' project in Antwerp. Next to five large exhibitions, a new magazine was launched: N°A magazine, published by Artimo, now called A MAGAZINE curated by.
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
"My goal is to change the boundaries of fashion"
-Walter
We all have our favorite fashion designers right? Does that mean when you favor something it speaks to you the loudest? Or is it just the nicest out of the crowd?
WELL! Walter is a designer I just discovered from a book I been reading..
To start- I AM SO INSPIRED! One thing I must say is his trademark definitely stands out in all of his collections, I love when you see a collection on the runway and without being told who the designer is YOU JUST KNOW! It’s like a fun guessing game lol one great example would be ALEXANDER MCQUEEN! Alexander is so great! that he can purposely forget his label and you know it’s him! all Because of that one significant trademark. For a lot of you this may be common sense. I feel to have a significant trademark is such a big deal; especially in everything you present to people, it’s as close as painting your face to a white t-shirt PEOPLE JUST KNOW. My conclusion: DON’T FIT IN OR PEOPLE WONT KNOW YOU EXIST!
Walter Van Beirendonck
Flemish fashion designer
He was born in Belgium in 1957
Designed for Oke sportswear from 1977-1980
Designed for Gianfranco Ferre till 1992, while creating his own label
Changed his label in 1995 to "Wild and Lethal Trash"
He also designs for rock groups
Known for his witty, cyberpunk, and pop art shows
Was a teacher at Royal Academy of Fine arts in Antwerp
Was the first designer to use the Internet and Cd's to showcase his designs
Won the title of "Cultural Ambassador of Flanders" in 1999
Materials that used in his designs are: synthetic and high tech fabrics with bold bright colours and graphics
His inspirations are the visual arts, literature, nature, and ethnic influences
PERSONAL FACTS
RECENT ACTIVITIES
INSPIRATION
EXHIBITIONS
CURATOR PROJECTS
COOPERATIONS
PUBLICATIONS
PERSONAL FACTS:
• Born: 04.02.57, Brecht, Belgium
• Studies: Fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp
• First breakthrough: British Designer Show / London in 1987 as part of ‘The Antwerp Six’
(with Dirk Van Saene, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Ann Demeulemeester and Marina Yee).
• Since 1983 collections under the label Walter Van Beirendonck
RECENT ACTIVITIES:
• Artistic Director for Scapa Sports
• Childrens Collection ZULUPAPUWA for JBC
• Designer collection Walter Van Beirendonck
Cloud #9 - Spring/Summer 2012
Hand on Heart - Autumn/Winter 2011-2012
Read My Skin - Summer 2011
Take a W-ride - Autumn/Winter 2010-2011
Wonde® - Spring/Summer 2010
Glow - Autumn/Winter 2009-2010
eXplicit - Spring/Summer 2009
SKIN KING - Autumn/Winter 2008-2009
SEXCLOWN - Spring/Summer 2008
STOP TERRORISING OUR WORLD – Autumn/Winter 2006-2007
RELICS FROM THE FUTURE - Spring/Summer 2006
WEIRD - Autumn/Winter 2005-2006
SUPERNATURAL - Spring/Summer 2005
CLOUDY STARS - Autumn/Winter 2004-2005
FUTUREDAY - Spring/Summer 2004
• 1999-until 2004: æstheticterrorists® by walter
PIXYDUST - Autumn/winter 2003-2004
RESPECT RETHINK REACT - Spring/Summer 2003
FLY OR VANISH - Autumn/Winter 2002-2003
BODY:XtensionXfashion - Spring/Summer 2002
• 1999-untill 2002: Walter Van Beirendonck
REVOLUTION - Autumn/Winter 2001-2002
STARSHIP EARTH - Spring/Summer 2001
DISSECTIONS - Autumn/Winter 2000-2001
GENDER? - Spring/Summer 2000
NO REFERENCES - Autumn/Winter 1999-2000
• Since 1985 is Walter teaching in the fashion-department from the Royal Academy of
Arts-Antwerp/Belgium
• In 1998 opened Walter Van Beirendonck ,'Walter' , a multilabel store,with annex the
'window'-gallery, St.Antoniusstraat 12 - Antwerp/Belgium
• Between I993 and 1999:designer of W.&L.T./Wild and Lethal Trash
Last collection designed by Walter was: Hi Sci Fi: Spring/Summer 1999
INSPIRATION: •••top
•••top
Since his early collections, Walter has been inspired for his designs
by art, music and literature, all mixed with ethnic and nature influences.
Walter Van Beirendonck is considered to be one of the main trend-setters
in men’s fashion by the professional press.
His designs are very recognisable by either strong graphics
or innovating cuts and unexpected colour combinations .
The red thread throughout his collections is his sense of humour,
sex with an eye-wink and his concern about ‘safe sex'.
His continous statements about the fashion-world,earth,nature, contempary life
and society are collected in prints and slogans.
Often 'double bottomed'!
Always in a complete unconventional context.
Since 1983 carries every collection a well-defined name.
OTHER ACTIVITIES:
•••top
Walter works besides the collections,regurarely on projects:
• Designing costumes for theater, ballet and film,curating expositions,designing objects,
think-thank for commercial projects and products,image-making for pop-groups,
illustrating books,designing commercial collections...
• Walter is buyer for the 'Walter'-store and co-curater for the 'Window'-gallery.
• Due to Walter's intrest in 'Cyber'-technology,W.&L.T. was the first fashionlabel,which
launched a full-CD-rom and Website, showing besides the collections, information and self-designed games.
EXHIBITIONS
Walter Van Beirendonck / Aestheticterrorists /
W< by Walter Van Beirendonck from 1986
•••top
Momu Antwerp / Belgium
Exposition : 'Dream The World Awake- 2011/2012
Selfridges London / UK
Participation-exposition : Selfridges / Judith Clark - 2011
Galeri Peithner-Lichtenfels Vienna /Austria
Participation-exposition : Anti Depressiva - 2011
Benaki Museum Athens / Greece
Participation-exposition : ARRRHG! Monsters in Fashion - 2011
Song Song Vienna/Austria
Exposition : 'Paradise Pleasure Productions' - 2010
Zand Eindhoven / Netherlands
Participation-Exposition : 'Glass Works' - 2010
Momu Antwerp / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'Stephen Jones & the Accent of Fashion' - 2010
Art Brussels
Participation-Exposition : 'Triple X - Wonde® Gallery - 2010
Museum Boijmans van Beuningen Rotterdam / Netherlands
Participation-Exposition : 'The art of Fashion - Installing Allusions' - 2009
Galerie Polaris Paris / France
Participation-Exposition : '2357' - 2009
Gemeentemuseum Den Haag / Netherlands
Participation-Exposition : 'De ideale man' - 2008
Metropolitan Museum of Art New York / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Superheroes, Fashion and Fantasy' - 2008
Modemuseum Hasselt / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'Ten dans gevraagd' - 2008
Nationaal glasmuseum Leerdam, in Fort Asperen / Netherlands
Participation-Exposition : 'De ideale man' - 2008
Oude Gevangenis Hasselt / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'Dichter op de huid' - 2008
Science Gallery Dublin / Ireland
Participation-Exposition : 'Technothreads, What fashion did next' - 2008
Victoria and Albert Museum London / UK
Participation-Exposition : 'Fashion V' - 2008
Benaki Museum Athens / Greece
Participation-Exposition : RRRIPP!!, paper fashion - 2007
Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology New York / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Exotism' - 2007
Speelgoed museum Mechelen / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : Speelgoed van... - 2007
Vlaam Parlement, de loketten Brussels / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : '6+ Antwerpse Mode - 2007
MoMu Antwerp / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'De MoMu Collectie - Selectie II' - 2006
3. Biennale Berlin Germany
Video Installation - 2004
Lille / France
Dreamcube Installation - European Cultural Capital - 2004
MoMu Antwerp / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'Malign Muses, when fashion turns back' exhibition - 2004
Musée de design et d'arts appliques contemporains Lausanne / Swiss
Participation-Exposition : 'Body Extentions' - 2004
Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Skin Tight / The Sensibility of the Flesh' - 2004
Forum - Fashion Nation Antwerp / Belgium
Exposition : Ballet costumes designed for 'Not Strictly Rubens' - 2003
Lidewij Edelkoort Fort Asperen Netherlands
Installation 'Weest steeds waakzaam' - Armour, the fortification of Man - expositions - 2003
MoMu Antwerp / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'Patterns' - 2003
Musée de la Mode Paris / France
Participation-Exposition : 'Trop' - 2003
Museum of Applied Arts Cologne / Germany
Participation-Exposition : 'Koerprnah - Koerperfern' - 2003
Selfridges London / UK
Participation : Body Vision Project, representing the 'Playful Body' - 2003
MoMu Antwerp / Belgium
Participation-Exposition : 'Backstage' - 2002
National Design Museum New York / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Skin', curated by Cooper Hewit - 2002
Victoria & Albert Museum London / UK
Participation-Exposition : 'Men in Skirts' - 2002
Bon Marché Rive Gauche Paris - France
Participation-Exposition : 'Les collections d'art des couturiers et créateurs mode' - 2001
Kobe Fashion Museum Japan
Participation-Exposition : 'Mohr: Colour and Space part 5 Sayoko'- 2001
Metropolitan Museum of Art New York / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Extreme beauty' - 2001
Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology New York / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Belgian Fashion Design : Antwerp Style' - 2001
Boijmans Van Beuningen Rotterdam / Netherlands
Participation-Exposition : 'Exorcism / Aesthetic Terrorism' - 2000
CCAC San Francisco / USA
Participation-Exposition : 'Fast Forward' - 2000
Elena Levi Roma / Italy
Participation-Exposition : Curated by Haim Steinbach - 2000
Galerie Enrico Navarra Paris / France
Participation-Exposition : 'Le Corps Mutant' - 2000
Grimaldi Forum / Monaco
Participation-Exposition : 'Air Air' exhibition - 2000
New York / USA
Installation Summer 2001 'Starship Earth'- collection - 2000
Hasselt / Belgium
Installation-Exposition : 'In de Ban van de Ring' - 1999
Kuenstlerhaus Vienna Austria
Participation-Exposition : 'Fast Forward' - 1999
Metropolitan Museum of Art Tokyo/Japan
Participation-Exposition and catalogue :
'Vision of the Body : Fashion Invisible Corset' with Video 'Fetish for Beauty' - 1999
Biennale di Firenze Italy
Installation at Stazione Leopolda (Fashion/Cinema) - 1998
Installation in context of New Universe / Personna - 1996
Boijmans Van Beuningen Rotterdam / Netherlands
Walter Van Beirendonck/W.&L.T. exhibition in collaborationwith Marc Newson - 1998
Design Museum London / UK
Participation-Exposition : 'Welcome Little Stranger / Men in Black 'Erotic Design' - 1997
Louvre Paris/France
Participation-Exposition : Musée de la Mode - 1997
Copenhagen / Denmark
Installation - European Cultural Capital - 1996
Fashion Museum of Marseille / France
Exposition : '10 years Walter Van Beirendonck 86-96' - 1996
CURATOR - PROJECTS
•••top
Boijmans Van Beuningen Rotterdam / Netherlands
Curator 'Surreal Things, Surrealism and Design' - 2007
Die Zeit Hamburg / Germany
Art Director for a special fashion issue of 'Die Zeit'
Phaidon
Co-curator for the 'Fashion-Cream' Project (published - 2005)
Selfridges London / UK
Co-curator and designer of the windows for the Body Craze Festival - 2003
Sleazenation
Anti-War poster - 2003
Fashion show in Moscow and St. Petersburg - 2002
Mode 2001 Landed-Geland Antwerp / Belgium
Curator from 1999-2002 : Landed/Geland. Fashionproject conceived for the city of Antwerp
4 Exhibitions : '2 Women', 'Mutilate ?', 'The Radicals', 'Emotions'
A,B, C Magazine, Exhibition - Catalogues, Merchandising - Project - 1999-2001
Realisation video:
‘Revolution’ - Autumn/Winter 2001-2002
Moët & Chandon
‘L’esprit du Siècle’-award for the Six of Antwerp - 2000
Awarded title ‘Cultural Ambassador of Flanders - 1999
Nomination Fashion Awards in New York - 1998
Boijmans Van Beuningen Rotterdam / Netherlands
Curator 'Kiss the future'. 'Shop-Installation'- Project with Marc Newson - 1998
COOPERATIONS
•••top
U2 / BONO
Outfits for the 'Popmart' tour
Mustang
Creatin gthe W< - Universum
Coca Cola
Coke - can for the 'Coke light Fashion Edition Belgium'
Eastpak
Limited Edition by Walter Van Beirendonck
Nissan
Makeover of a Nissan Micra for the Brussels Automobile Fair.
It was sold in favour of the Aids Research department at the Antwerp Tropical Institute.
Theater Company Amsterdam
Costumes for 'The massacre at Paris' (Director : Ivo Van Hove)
Royal Ballet of Flanders
Costumes for 'Not Strictly Rubens'
Rei Kawakubo
Cooperation for Landed 2001 / '2 Women' - Art Directin 5 shows of Comme des Garçons in Antwerp
Marc Newson
Cooperation for Shopconcept W< presented on 13 and 14 March in Paris
'Kiss the future' Exhibition in the Boijmans-Van Beuningen Museum Rotterdam
Orlan
Cooperation for Catalogue 'Believe'
Juergen Teller
Cooperation for fashionshoots and publications
Lidewij Edelkoort
Cooperation on different levels
Tropical Institute Antwerp department Aids research
Fundraising through regular projects
Liveball Vienna
Benefit Fashion show 2000 / Vienna - Austria
Amnesty International
design of Amnesty International T-shirt on the occasion of their 40th Anniversary for fundraising
Ronald Stoops
Cooperation for photoshoots
Inge Grognard
Cooperation for Make-up - projects
Mondino
Cooperation for photoshoots and Portraits of Walter
Bloomingdales
Interactive Windows, New York Fashion Week: exclusive W.&L.T. shopwindows / New York - USA
Starlab
Consultant for intelligent clothing / I - Wear Project / Brussels - Belgium
Woolmark
Lecturer and guest of honour / Melbourne - FFashion Festival Australia
Belgian Television VTM
In cooperation with JBC, Art Director for Levenslijn - Fundraising Project 'I love Stars'
Bang & Olufsen
Lecture about colour for Bang & Olufsen, Denmark
Paul Boudens
Cooperation for Graphics, catalogues and magazines
Vivienne Westwood
Regular invitations as jury member - Hochschule der Bildenden Kuenste, Berlin
Mr. Pearl
Cooperation on the Mr. Pearl - Room - Landed/Geland 2001
Stephen Jones
Cooperation in several 'Hat - Projects'
the Avalanches- Australia
T-shirt-project - 2002
Joan Morey
Text-contribution to catalogue of Bad Boys-project/Bienale of Venice
Dear iDEALS, Walter Van Beirendonck is one of “Antwerp Six”, which stands on its own as a tittle to carry (a rather heavy one one might say). I am happy to reveal to you this nice converation I had with Mr Beirendonck, perhaps the most influential and breakthrough menswear designers of our time, having mentored the famed Bernhard Willhelm as well as other young emerging talents who are lucky enough to have him as their tutor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. For the moment his is exhibiting 2357, an art installation at Polaris Gallery in Paris. See more of that here, on Diane Pernet's Shaded Blog.
Filep Motwary: What are the most memorable moments in your career so far, acquaintances and collaborations? Why? What has been your career high to date?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Every new collection is a highlight for me. I love to work together with other creative people. Bono (U2), Marc Newson, Jurgen Teller, Rei Kawakubo, Mondino, Ronald Stoops, Inge Grognard, Orlan, Dirk van Saene..are a few of the people which I enjoyed working with. Some off my huge fashion shows back in the nineties you surely can call career highs.
(Photo Ronald Stoops)
FilepMotwary: Belgium made its entrance on the map of Fashion during the mid 1980’s thanks to you, Ann Demeulemeester, Margiela...Could you describe this wave back then, the difficulties and the whole evolution in General that today, still remains as the most sophisticated part of the world’s fashion industry?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: We (the six + 1) were totally innocent, not knowing how to deal with the “real” fashion world after graduating from the Antwerp royal academy. But we wear ambitious, sticked together, got finally out of Belgium and rocked the fashion world. I’m also really proud that I’m teaching in the academy for more that 26 years. I teached great new talents who became also well known names in the fashion world. Of course is my favourite: Bernard Wilhelm. Since two years I’m head of the fashion department and sure to deliver more talents in the future. Belgium raised students (coming from all over the world) do rock the fashion world once again!
FilepMotwary: Your work is like a canvas full of messages, Can fashion be a protest? Can a protest be fashionable?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Fashion should be rethink , react and renew. Fashion designers, as all creative people, should have the role to criticize, reflect our contemporary society. The rhythm and pace of fashion is a perfect way tot protest-anything can be fashionable Why not! Obama is very fashionable and isn’t that politics?
FilepMotwary: Classicism as we know it today requires balance and order in colors or shape. Yet, your work moves towards another dimension. How do you translate what you do?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: My final goal is not to do achieve a kind of classicism. But even in my work, balance and order of colour, and shape is extremely important. Of course the final result is a real personal vision and view. What I do: My personal challenge is to change and let evolve the boundaries of (men’s) fashion. I like to experiment and thinking about the possibilities to express my vision, view, thoughts and ideas in my collections and project.
FilepMotwary: From 1985 to this day, you are head of the 3rd Bachelor and Master at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp. Describe the contradiction of showing your work as a designer and at the same time, teaching fashion to young students.
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: I don’t see it as a contradiction. My strong fantasy gives me the real possibility to guide and help young talents. I get into their “heads”, think for them and try to push their limits. That’s what is called: “teaching and learning”
FilepMotwary: What do you think it means to categorise you as a 'Belgian designer'?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: We are all rather different, but what all “Belgians” (or designers raised in Antwerp) do have in common, is that we want to tell a story or do a statement in our collections. This we reach trough research, and we all inject a big dose of our own charter and interest in the world, in our collection. We don’t care for glam, glitz and stars on the first row.
FilepMotwary: What does fashion mean to you? What does it need in your opinion? What is modern and what is old?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Fashion needs passion, experiment, soul, risks, changing…. I love it and hate it at the same time. It is great to realize (afterwards) now dominant fashion trends are visible in the world. We try to avoid following trends, but we can’t avoid to be influenced by them, even the most forward-thinkers.
FilepMotwary:How do you think the interns help fashion these days? How important is for you having young people working around you?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: I select every season 2/3 interns which work intensively in my studio. I love the dynamic energy from this young people, and I do like “to teach” them new things.
FilepMotwary: How different are the needs you had when you fist started compared to where you stand today? Please, could you include your ideals and beliefs as a person?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: The needs are still the same: getting money together to do what I like to do in my work.Despite the fact that my career was a rollercoaster ride, going up and down, I’m proud that I always achieved to do what I wanted to do, and despite the fact that most of the fashion world is a scary, money business, superficial and killing….. I keep on believing.
FilepMotwary: How was your upbringing?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Simple and caring, in a small town in the countryside. loving animals and nature. (Stefan Van Fleteren)
FilepMotwary: Do you think that “one chooses his path of life” depending on the influences he has from childhood or is it some sort of decision we take based on personal choices? How was Walter Van Beirendonck as a teenager compared to the students you teach?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: As a teenager I was innocent, but ready to discover the world.. Now, students are informed by the web. Seeing and “googling” a lot, but missing the right contexts.
FilepMotwary: Has the economic crises affected the way you think or work?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Definitely the more commercial projects I’m involved in!
FilepMotwary: Could you share with us any short coming plans and projects?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: “W6YZ”
Note: The interview is part of the 5th FASHION ISTEROGRAFO, supplement of Phileleftheros Cyprus.
Walter Van Beirendonck is represented by TOTE