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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures A report by The Wilderness Society The Unprotected Wildlands of the George Washington National Forest

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Page 1: Virginia’s Mountain Treasures€¦ · Virginia’s Mountain Treasures: The Unprotected Wildlands of the George Washington National Forest is a report published by the Wilderness

Virginia’sMountain Treasures

A report by The Wilderness Society

The Unprotected Wildlands of theGeorge Washington National Forest

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Cover Art: Betty Gatewood, Betty lives in Mt. Sidney, Virginia. Mountain Fetterbush--Pieris floribunda Shenandoah Mountain

First Printing:Copyright by The Wilderness Society1615 M Street, NWWashington, DC 20036(202)-843-9453

Wilderness Support CenterP.O. Box 1620Durango, CO 81302(970) 247-8788

Founded in 1935, The Wilderness Society works to protect America’s wilderness and to develop a nation-wide network of wild lands through public education, scientific analysis, and advocacy. Our goal is toensure that future generations will enjoy the clean air and water, wildlife, beauty, and opportunities forrecreation and renewal that pristine forests, rivers, deserts, and mountains provide.

Our membership of more than 200,000 people is a potent force that gets the attention of Congress, theWhite House, and federal agencies who manage our public lands.

You can join the growing number of Americans who believe that preserving wilderness is essential by calling1-800-THE-WILD (1-800-843-9453) to speak with a representative of our membership services. Or,you can join online at our website—www.wilderness.org.

Printed in the USA by: Good Printers, Inc., 213 Dry River Road, Bridgewater, VA 22812

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

Virginia’sMountain Treasures

The Unprotected Wildlands of theGeorge Washington National Forest

by

Mark Miller

for

The Wilderness Society

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

Preface

During the course of my career, long beforeworking full time for the conservation community, Ihad the pleasure of spending four years at Sweet BriarCollege in central Virginia. It is difficult to describewhat that lovely setting meant to me, except to say thatone of the highlights of living there was the panoramicview of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains rightoutside my door. I fell in love with the state back then,captivated by its simple beauty, and mention this briefpiece of personal history because preserving Virginia’swild landscapes and hidden wonders has become apersonal quest for all of us at The Wilderness Society.

Eastern Wilderness is an uncommon and veryprecious commodity. Before passage of the EasternWilderness Areas Act of 1975, many people believedunspoiled wilderness simply no longer existed east ofthe Mississippi River. Thousands of dedicatedactivists proved them wrong. The WildernessSociety’s report, Virginia’s Mountain Treasures: TheUnprotected Wildlands of the George WashingtonNational Forest, describes more than 600,000 acresof potential wildlands, an assortment of dazzlingnatural jewels that remain intact even today. Thisbooklet is a guide to the best of the best of thesespecial places—little known corners of the wild thatprovide safe havens for endangered species, rareplants, clean water, historic sites, spiritual respite andrenewal, breathtaking vistas and unforgettable outdoorexperiences.

The good news is that every citizen of Virginia hasa singular opportunity to take action right now andhelp create more protected wildlands in their ownbackyard.

The bad news is that the fragile roadless areasfound within this forest lie in the shadow of the fast-

developing Mid-Atlantic region—within one day’sdrive of at least a third of the population of the UnitedStates. As wild country and open space disappearfrom private land, every acre of public land becomesmore precious. We have a once-in-a-lifetime chanceto permanently protect a priceless forest legacy andbequeath it to our grandchildren. But that opportunityis fleeting.

No one understood the impermanence and fragilityof nature’s web of life better than the late ErnieDickerman, the indefatigable champion of Virginiawilderness to whom we owe endless gratitude. Placeafter place listed in our Mountain Treasures report isintact today because a warrior like Ernie refused to letlogging and development encroach on his beloved wildlands. Luckily for us another generation of advocatesand heroes now carries the torch he passed on: Bessand Jim Murray, Steve Krichbaum, Carol Lena Miller,Lynn Cameron, Hugh Irwin, Sherman Bamford,David Hannah, Pete Bsumek, Don Giecek, DavidCarr, Mark Miller, Juliana Simpson, Laura Neale, andthe entire Virginia Wilderness Committee to name justa few. We offer our sincerest thanks to them too.

As you read this document I trust you will feel thespark of hope it is meant to engender. Virginians andothers turned hope into reality in 2000 when Congressdesignated more than 10,000 acres of new Wildernessin the Priest and Three Ridges Wilderness Areas of theGeorge Washington National Forest. It will happenagain—if we can activate the collective power ofthousands of individuals who believe in conservation.Together we will transform the words written on thesepages to real and lasting changes on the land.Virginia’s wildland treasures are our gifts to the future.I hope you will join us in creating that future.

William H. MeadowsPresident,The Wilderness Society

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

Rough Mountain Wilderness Photo by Mark Miller

Dedicated to Virginia’s ConservationistsFaithful Conservators of Our Mountain

Heritage

This volume of Virginia’s Mountain Treasures describes the finest selection of wildlands to befound within the George Washington National Forest. All of them deserve some degree ofprotection from the pressures of development. It will be evident, of course, to all our readersthat we do not expect all of these lands to become wilderness, but it is from this bountifulreserve that any future additions to the National Wilderness Preservation System must bedrawn.

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

Table of ContentsExecutive Summary 7

Overview 8

Why Protect Wild Areas? 9

The Southern Appalachian System 12

The Unprotected Wildlands of the George Washington National Forest 15

Conservation 17

Recommendations 19

What you can do to help 19

Big Schloss Cluster 20

Shenandoah Mountain Complex 30

Northern Shenandoah Mountain Cluster 31

Central Shenandoah Mountain Cluster 40

Southern Shenandoah Mountain Cluster 51

Great North Mountain Cluster 54

Allegheny Mountain Cluster 61

Warm Springs Mountain Cluster 70

Rich Hole/Rough Mountain Cluster 76

Southern Allegheny Cluster 82

Massanutten Mountain Cluster 90

Pedlar Cluster 96

Conclusions 104

Summary Table 106

Co-sponsors 110

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures 7

Executive SummaryVirginia’s Mountain Treasures: The Unprotected Wildlands of the George Washington National Forest

is a report published by the Wilderness Society with major assistance from local conservation organizations.This publication is the companion volume to Virginia’s Mountain Treasures: The Unprotected Wildlands ofthe Jefferson National Forest.

The George Washington National Forest lies in thirteen counties in northwestern Virginia and two counties ineastern West Virginia. These lands total almost 1.1 million acres.

The U.S. Forest Service has begun its planning process for the George Washington National Forest. Thisprocess will determine how these treasures will be managed for the next 10-15 years.

Highlights

♦ This report identifies as Mountain Treasures 63areas on the George Washington National Forest.

♦ A total of over 602, 000 acres of the forest havebeen identified in this publication.

♦ Mountain Treasures should be protected fromlogging, road construction, and other forms of exploit-ative development.

♦ Only 25 Treasures were identified by the ForestService as “Inventoried Roadless Areas” under the2001 Roadless Conservation Rule.

♦ Virginia’s Mountain Treasures serve as the basesfor the source of clean water for many communities inwestern Virginia. Many areas were selected to keepwatersheds intact.

♦ These Treasures help local communities draw intourists from all across the Commonwealth as well asfrom across the nation.

♦ Recreation such as hunting, fishing, mountainbiking, hiking, backpacking, and birding are significantactivities which occur on Virginia’s National Forest.Protected areas serve to foster this type of recreation.

♦ These Mountain Treasures protect some of the lastremaining stands of old-growth forest in Virginia andWest Virginia and provide refuge for neo-tropicalmigratory song birds, native brook trout, and otherspecies that require large unbroken tracts of forestland.

The Planning Process

♦ This process will determine how these Treasureswill be managed for the next 10-15 years.

♦ The forest planning process will impact the qualityof water for local communities. It will also affect localtourism and tourism-related activities for local commu-nities.

♦ The planning process may establish administrativeprocedures for the protection of old growth forests,native brook trout, and neo-tropical migratory songbirds.

♦ This publication does not attempt to define howthe Mountain Treasures should be protected. It onlyseeks to raise awareness that these wildlands shouldreceive “meaningful consideration” in the upcomingForest planning process.

♦ Some types of protection include: forest planSpecial Biological Areas, National Scenic orConservation Areas, Wild and Scenic Riverdesignations, roadless areas, and Wilderness andWilderness Study Areas.

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8 Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

OverviewIn the National Forests of the Southern

Appalachians, there are still some lands that are largelywild and unroaded. Some of these are set aside asWilderness, the Appalachian Trail corridor, NationalRecreation Areas, or Special Biological and ScenicAreas. Others are in administrative managementcategories that currently are considered unsuitable forlogging and road building. However, many importantwildlands are still open to future timber cutting, roadconstruction, and other development.

This publication focuses on the unprotectedwildlands of the George Washington National Forest.The Wilderness Society and sponsoring groups haveidentified 63 areas that need and deserveprotection. Some of these should be added to theNational Wilderness Preservation System; otherswould be more appropriately designated as scenicareas, biological areas or recreation areas. Maps anddescriptions are presented for each area. This reportbriefly explains some of the values of wild areas anddiscusses how wildlands in the George WashingtonNational Forest contribute to the overall health andbeauty of the entire Southern Appalachian ecosystem.

These areas constitute some of the wildest andleast-developed tracts remaining in Virginia. A part ofthe George Washington National Forest extends intoWest Virginia; thus all or portions of nine wildlands inthis report are in that state. In addition, someMountain Treasures extend beyond the boundaries ofthe George Washington National Forest onto theMonongahela National Forest in West Virginia.Where this occurs a dashed line has been utilized toshow the true extent of the roadless area.

Some of the Mountain Treasures currently areprotected by the Forest Service, and we recommendcontinued protection for these lands. But many arenot. For areas currently open to timber cutting androad building, we recommend protection from futurelogging operations and development. In 1993, theForest Service adopted a plan for management of theGeorge Washington National Forest that opened upmany wild areas to logging and related roadconstruction. That forest plan was challenged by acoalition of environmental groups, including theCitizens Task Force, the Sierra Club, The WildernessSociety, the Southern Environmental Law Center,

Virginians For Wilderness, and Trout Unlimited. Thisadministrative appeal and others were dismissed bythe Forest Service without changing the forest plan oraddressing the appellants’ concerns.

There are two primary laws governing themanagement of our National Forests. The NationalForest Management Act (NFMA) requires on-the-ground protection of the Forest’s components such aswildlife populations, soils, and water quality. TheNational Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) isprocedural in nature and requires the Forest Service tostudy and disclose the effects of its activities. Inaddition, it requires the public to be informed aboutand involved in the agency’s management proposals.

The Forest Service is now in the process ofrevising the forest plan for the George WashingtonNational Forest. However, the process for doing sohas been changed. Under NEPA, previous NationalForest Plan revisions had to undergo the preparationof an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS). Such anendeavor is supposed to entail not only thorough fact-finding and analysis, but also open opportunities forpublic participation.

However, in 2002 the Bush administrationproposed new regulations that, if adopted, wouldallow the process for developing the forest plan for theentire 1.1 million acre GWNF to be “categoricallyexcluded” from full NEPA review. Now it is not clearwhether Virginians and other Americans will have theopportunity to participate in determining the futuremanagement of the George Washington NationalForest. In addition, the administration also changed theNFMA regulations, significantly weakening therequirements for on-the-ground protection.

It is more important than ever before that thepublic state their views on the many issuesaffecting the Forest. One of these issues will be todetermine which areas should be open for futurelogging and mining and which areas should be off-limits to industrial extraction. The Forest Service alsowill consider Wilderness recommendations for eligiblelands. We urge everyone to write to the ForestService now and ask to be included in the ForestPlan Revision mailing list. This will ensure youropportunity to comment on the draft forest plan and itsdevelopment.

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures 9

Why Protect Wild Areas?In the United States, the practice of setting aside

selected lands to remain in a primitive, undevelopedcondition dates back more than a century. It isrecognized that wildlands provide important benefitsfor people. Yet, how does one measure the joy ofexploring an old-growth forest to see how natureworks over time? How valuable is the experience offishing for native brook trout in a pristine river, orcamping deep in the woods where the sights, sounds,and smells are only those of the forest?

In 1996, an interagency effort, including leadershipby the Forest Service, led to the publication of theSouthern Appalachian Assessment (SAA). Thismulti-volume study described the resources of this 37-million-acre region, which includes national forests andparks, and extensive surrounding private lands.

According to the SAA, only 1 percent of theSouthern Appalachian region is designated asWilderness, consisting of 39 areas totaling about430,000 acres. Another 2 percent of the land in theregion is included in national forest roadless areas,which are eligible for Wilderness designation. Theseroadless areas comprise about 715,000 acres,affording opportunities to establish Wilderness areas ineach of the region’s national forests.

Increasing Recreation

As detailed in Charting a New Course: NationalForests in the Southern Appalachians (Morton,1994), the demand for recreational opportunities thatwildlands offer is increasing in the SouthernAppalachians as the population of the area continuesto grow. The Forest Service expects a doubling ofcurrent rates of dispersed recreational use by the year2040 in the South. With adventure-based recreationbecoming increasingly popular, there is increaseddemand for more natural settings that hold greaterchallenges for outdoor enthusiasts with enhanced skillsand experience. The remaining roadless areas in thenational forests afford backcountry recreationopportunities that can meet future demand.

Ecological Benchmarks

Among other benefits of Wilderness, the SAAnotes that “these areas can serve as ecologicalbenchmarks for assessing human-induced impacts inmore developed settings. They can be baselines forglobal monitoring studies and living laboratories tosee how natural systems interact and evolve.” TheSAA lists a wide variety of scientific studies in theregion’s Wildernesses on topics from the effects of airpollution, to old growth forest dynamics, to visitorsatisfaction.

Culture and History

Wildlands also provide cultural enrichment. If weleave some land in a natural condition and secureliving space for our native plants and animals, we canmore fully understand the kinds of landscapesexperienced by earlier generations of Americans,including Native Americans. Accounts of life inAmerica in the17th and 18th centuries have moremeaning if we can see and experience wildforestlands in conditions similar to those found incolonial times.

Our culture has been shaped by the explorationand use of wilderness in the past. Aldo Leopold, anoted conservationist, writer, and founding memberof the Wilderness Society, said in his book, A SandCountry Almanac: “Wilderness is the raw materialout of which man has hammered the artifact calledcivilization. Wilderness was never a homogenous rawmaterial. It was very diverse, and the resultingartifacts are very diverse. These differences in theend-product are known as cultures. The rich diversityof the world’s cultures reflects a correspondingdiversity in the wilds that gave them birth.”

Biodiversity

Another important reason for conserving largetracts of unfragmented forest is their contribution tobiodiversity. Nineteen federally listed threatened andendangered species are found in 16 roadless areas.Older forests (stands over 100 years old) can befound in 125 of the 139 national forest roadless

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10 Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

areas, totaling 174,000 acres. The SAA shows thatsome ecological classification units are not representedby a designated Wilderness or even an inventoriedroadless area, and it is important that they should be.

Wildlands also serve as prime Black Bear habitatin the region. In particular, the SAA finds that largepopulations of Black Bear are associated with areas oflow road density, and, conversely, that areas of higherroad density generally have lower populations.Wilderness, roadless areas, and other wildlandsprovide the habitat security that Black Bears require,as well as the greatest amount of hard mast — food— from mature oak forests.

Neotropical migratory songbirds associated withforest interior habitat also benefit from the large tractsof unfragmented forest found in designatedWilderness, Scenic Areas, and roadless areas. Theseinclude species in decline, such as the Wood Thrush,Ovenbird, and Cerulean Warbler, as well as cavity-nesting birds like the Pileated Woodpecker.

The SAA also found that 11 percent of theregion’s trout streams are in remote settings. Roadlessareas contain pristine watersheds and streams thatoffer outstanding opportunities for high-quality fishingin backcountry settings.

During the years ahead, while we add to ourknowledge of the habitat needs of our native flora andfauna, it makes sense to keep some of our land in anundeveloped condition. This will help ensure that wedo not destroy the sustaining resources that are criticalto the well-being of these species.

Potential Benefits to Human Health

Wild nature yields products used in medicine andother disciplines that affect many aspects of our dailylives. For example, many antibiotics, includingpenicillin and cephalosporin, are derived from naturalsubstances. Taxol, from the Pacific Yew tree, is used inthe treatment of ovarian cancer. For years, the Yewtree, with little market value, was eliminated routinelyfrom the forests of the Pacific Northwest.

Considering that only a small number of the plantsand animals on earth have been studied for theirmedicinal properties, there are undoubtedly many

other useful substances yet to be discovered. Thesesecrets of nature may have important and far-reachingbenefits for humankind, and these discoveries may bepossible only if portions of our natural environmentremain intact.

In the book, The Lands Nobody Wanted, byWilliam Shands and Robert Healy, the authorsrecommend that future management of the easternnational forests gives priority to “providing publicbenefits that cannot be supplied by private land, eitherbecause resources are unavailable, or because aneconomic incentive is absent.” Because, as stated inthe SAA, large tracts of the region’s privately ownedland are expected to decrease over time, nationalforests and other public lands offer the best option forprotecting large blocks of wildland in the SouthernAppalachians.

Wilderness

Established by Congress, Wilderness areas are permanentlypreserved by law in their natural condition, with multiple benefitsfor clean water, backcountry recreation, high-quality fisheries,scenery, and old-growth habitat. They are protected from logging,road construction, mining and mechanized equipment. Recreationin Wilderness includes hiking, nature study, horseback riding,camping, canoeing, fishing, and hunting. Under bills passed in1984, 1988, and 2000 approximately 43,000 acres, or about 4percent, of the George Washington National Forest is Wilderness.

Roadless Areas

Roadless areas are large tracts of wildlands, unfragmented byroads, yet may be open to future road building and logging. Theseareas are the building blocks for future permanent protection suchas Wilderness or National Scenic Areas. To qualify as roadless,areas must be generally wild (with less than 1/2 mile of improvedroad per 1,000 acres), must be natural (less than 20 percent of theforest less than 10 years old), and must provide outstandingopportunities for backcountry recreation or solitude.

The current forest plan for the George Washington NationalForest lists about 260,000 acres, or 24 percent, of the land asroadless. Many conservationists contend that the Forest Servicefailed to identify additional qualified lands as roadless. In 2001, anationwide rule was adopted to protect inventoried roadless areasfrom roadbuilding and commercial logging with certain limitedexceptions.

The current administration has sought to remove theseprotections and only provide them when a governor can persuadethe Secretary of Agriculture to implement them in his state. Thegovernor of Virginia submitted such a request in 2005. That requestis on hold since there is still the potential for the nationwide ruleto survive.

Areas designated as roadless are popular recreational sites forprimative backcountry recreation and mountain biking.

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures 11

Federal Lands in the Southern Appalachians

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12 Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

The Southern Appalachian SystemThe George Washington National Forest

comprises 1,061,000 acres of mountainous forest landin Virginia and adjacent West Virginia. It is part of theSouthern Appalachian ecosystem, which containsmillions of acres of federal public land stretching fromVirginia to Alabama. This is the largest concentrationof public lands in the eastern United States. In additionto the National Forests, the ecosystem includes theGreat Smoky Mountains National Park, the BlueRidge Parkway, and Shenandoah National Park.

The great diversity of plant and animal life in theSouthern Appalachians reflects the fact that thesehighlands have remained dry land and unglaciated formillions of years. These mountains owe theirbeginnings to the great crustal movements that closedthe Paleozoic Era. Throughout the Paleozoic,enormously thick sediments had accumulated in abasin on the margin of continental America. Thesesediments were compressed laterally by the collisionof continental plates with the result that the strata werefolded and faulted into a series of overlapping slabs.Subsequent erosion then sculpted the terrain into manyindividual mountain ranges stretching from Georgia allthe way to Newfoundland. Indeed the effects of thisAppalachian Revolution can be traced across theAtlantic into southern Britain and Europe.

The resulting landforms have been produced bytwo types of drainage. In some cases, the originaleastward flowing rivers, such as the James and thePotomac, must have been in place before themountains were built. These powerful streams wereable to maintain their original positions despite the riseof the mountains. In other cases, the streams havesought out the less resistant rocks to develop riversthat follow the grain of the folding, a classic examplebeing the two forks of the Shenandoah.

In the George Washington Forest two of the majorphysiographic provinces of Virginia are represented.The Blue Ridge is made up of ancient Precambriansedimentary, volcanic, or metamorphic rocks. Thesehave been thrust westward against and even over thePaleozoic sediments. West of the Blue Ridge thesesedimentary rocks have been thrown into multiple

folds to create the Ridge and Valley Province. Thecrests of the ridges are held up by hard Siluriansandstones, while the valleys are sculpted from thesofter limestones and shales.

The mountains in the George Washington do notmatch the greatest heights of the Appalachians, such asNorth Carolina’s Mt. Mitchell at 6,684 ft., but withmany summits topping 4,000 ft. they have enoughelevation to establish steep ecological gradients withthe deep valleys and water gaps separating themountain masses. Consider, for example, ReddishKnob at 4,398ft. To the south and east stretches thedrainage of the Shenandoah; to the southwest lie theheadwaters of streams that will join to form the James;and to the northwest are the upper reaches of thePotomac.

Although these mountains have never beencovered by the ice age glaciers, they have not beenunaffected by climate change. Studies of pollendeposition show that the plant associations haveadvanced and retreated in step with the ice. Presentday climatic warming has left pockets of northernvegetation isolated on the highest peaks. Red Spruceand Balsam Fir occur as relict populations. Themovement of plants and animals up and down themountain chain has resulted in many cases ofspeciation as a result of the isolation of populations.An especially notable example is the flora of the shalebarrens, patches of stony shards where temperaturesare extreme and water is limiting. Species foundnowhere else in the world, such as Virginia Clover andseveral species of Clematis, grow here. In other casessouthern endemics find their farthest northernextension in the George Washington, notably CarolinaHemlock and Catawba Rhododendron.

Animals have also produced localized speciesfound here and nowhere else. The GeorgeWashington is home to an endemic species ofsalamander, the Cow Knob Salamander, while theShenandoah National Park is the only home of theShenandoah Salamander. Other species ofvertebrates, such as the Northern Flying Squirrel, herereach the limits of their southern distribution.

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures 13

The Southern Appalachian Assessment (SAA)predicts that large tracts of forest and associatedforest interior habitats will continue to decrease due todevelopment and conversion to other land uses. TheSAA concludes that “priority should be given tomaintaining existing larger tracts that have the potentialto support the species associated with mid- and late-successional forests. Currently, national forests andnational parks contain the largest portion of these largetracts, and will most likely continue to provide the corehabitat for source populations of deciduous forestspecies.”

The Southern Appalachian region has long beenone of the major tourist destinations in the United

States. In 1995, there were more than 100 millionoutdoor-recreation-based trips in the SouthernAppalachians, with more than 80 percent of thosevisits made by people from outside the region. Thevalue of recreation-based tourism is nearly $6 billionper year, with an annual employment of more than100,000 people.

Hiking, backpacking, fishing, hunting, mountainbiking, wildlife viewing, and nature study activitiescontribute significant numbers of jobs and income tothe region. The SAA estimates that 30,602 jobs aredirectly related to recreation on federal land. This isalmost a third of the annual employment fromrecreation-based tourism. The number of employeesdoubled between 1977 and 1991.

Photo by Steve KrichbaumA Milk Snake

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14 Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

George Washington National Forest

Legend

1) Big Schloss Cluster

2) Northern Shenandoah Mountain Cluster

3) Central Shenandoah Mountain Cluster

4) Southern Shenandoah Mountain Cluster

5) Great North Mountain Cluster

6) Allegheny Mountain Cluster

7) Warm Springs Mountain Cluster

8) Rich Hole/Rough Mountain Cluster

9) Southern Allegheny Cluster

10) Massanutten Mountain Cluster

11) Pedlar Cluster

12) National Forest Wilderness

13) Mount Pleasant National Scenic Area

14) Douthat State Park

15) State Wildlife Management Areas

Harrisonburg

Staunton

Lexington

Waynesboro

Covington

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures 15

The Unprotected Wildlands of theGeorge Washington National Forest

The wildlands in this report — 63 areas totalingabout 602,432 acres — are special places that shouldbe protected from logging, road construction, andother forms of harmful development. These federallyowned lands, selected for their outstanding wild andnatural values, include high-quality fisheries, matureand old-growth forest, wildlife habitat, backcountryrecreation opportunities, intact watersheds, andbeautiful scenery.

Although many ecosystems of the centralAppalachians have been degraded by pastenvironmental impacts, these Mountain Treasures offera unique opportunity for us to retain a system of large,connected, and unfragmented natural areas, providinghabitats for forest-dwelling plants and animals andgenetic reservoirs for the future.

The region’s remaining natural areas are comingunder increasing assault from road construction,logging, and motorized recreation. It is essential tomaintain the size and connectedness of the NationalForest roadless areas in order to provide for wildlifemovements, genetic interchange, and the functioning ofnatural ecological processes.

Some of these Mountain Treasures were identifiedand “inventoried” in the Roadless Area Review andEvaluation II (RARE II) conducted by the ForestService in the late 1970s. These areas received initialprotection under the 2001 Roadless AreaConservation Rule, although the status of that rule isstill in doubt. Many of these areas would be suitablefor Congressional Wilderness or National Scenic Areadesignation. (For acreages of “Inventoried RoadlessAreas”, see the Summary Table.) The Forest Servicealso evaluated eligible waterway segments for possiblerecommendation as wild and scenic rivers.

Currently, only about 4% of the GeorgeWashington National Forest is permanently preservedas Wilderness — about 43,600 acres. This is wellbelow the national average of 18% for National Forestacreage. The six Wilderness Areas on the Forest aregenerally small, averaging about 7,300 acres — farbelow the national average for national forestWilderness of around 40,000 acres. For theenvironment and our quality of life, more and larger

Wilderness areas are needed. The Forest has onlyone designated National Scenic Area. Mount Pleasantis 7,748 acres.

Under the current forest plan adopted in 1993, theForest Service established a variety of administrativecategories to designate special areas for their values asbiological sites, backcountry recreation, scenery, andwatershed protection. This usually ensures that theselands are protected from logging and roadconstruction during the 10-l5-year life of the forestplan. However, such protections are not permanentand can be altered or rescinded by agency action.

Roads are, of course, one of the most seriousissues in contemporary conservation. Roads producehabitat fragmentation, edge effects, problems withaccess, and other impacts. As of 2003 there were1,790 miles of classified system roads within theGeorge Washington National Forest. In addition, anenormous number of “temporary” roads (certainlyhundreds of miles), which have been constructed forlogging and other management purposes, are notmaintained by the Forest Service and do not figure inthe agency’s inventories. Though “temporary”, theirimpact will be discernable for a lifetime.

In the selection of Treasures proposed forprotection, attempts were made to identify areas withfew or no roads, to keep watersheds intact, and tocluster areas to form wildlife corridors and reducefragmentation. One area in particular, ShenandoahMountain, deserves mention as the largest and leastfragmented block of contiguous wildlands remaining inthe Central Appalachians.

Eleven clusters of Mountain Treasures have beenidentified on the GWNF’s five Ranger Districts. Thebulk of these lands are on the west side of the Valley,in the Ridge and Valley physiographic province. ThePedlar RD, however, on the east side of the Valley, ispart of the Blue Ridge Mountains province; and asmall portion of the Warm Springs RD lies in theAllegheny Mountains & Plateau province. The landsof the GWNF are situated in two major watersheds,the James River and Potomac River, both of whichdrain into the Chesapeake Bay.

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16 Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

The peaks and ridges of the GWNF are some ofthe driest lands in the East. Most precipitation falls onthe western slopes of the Allegheny Plateau andeastern slopes of the Blue Ridge. Lying in this doublerain shadow, the bulk of the Forest only averagesabout 35 inches of precipitation annually. The landsconstituting the GWNF are some of the steepest,rockiest, driest, thin-soiled, most remote, and mostdifficult to access in the state. Consequently, from acommercial timber perspective, they are of relativelypoor value economically.

Nevertheless, this has not prevented thedevelopment of beautiful old-growth on the Forest.Shenandoah Mountain in particular has aconcentration of such sites. Old-growth forestprovides many unique benefits for fish and wildlife,recreation, scenery, and overall biodiversity. TheForest Service has done a preliminary identification of“possible” old growth on the GWNF, based on theagency’s computerized database of ages for eachindividual “stand” on the Forest (there are over twentythousand of these). Depending on the type of forest,“stands” must generally be at least 100-150 years oldto potentially qualify as old-growth. Despite the use ofthe Regional Old-Growth Guidance issued by theForest Service in 1997, the cutting of old-growthforest continues on the GWNF.

This landscape of the GWNF is one of extremes.The lowlands in the Shenandoah Valley are heavilydeveloped, with the I-81corridor, manufacturing,municipalities, suburban sprawl, and industrialagriculture contbibuting to streams with poor waterquality. In contrast, the headwaters of these drainages,many of which lie within the GWNF, retain some ofthe best water quality in the region. Unfortunately, inaddition to direct management threats from within, theForest’s aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems are at riskof degradation from air pollution and acid precipitationfrom outside the area.

Both the Forest’s content and its context must bekept in mind in our conservation decisions. Thefragmented and degraded quality that characterizes

much of our landscape limits us to thinking “small” asthe norm in contemporary conservation. The 1.1million acre GWNF in its entirety and these MountainTreasures in particular give us the rare chance to think“Big” in the East. To pass up this remarkableopportunity will be to betray not only science andreason, but also life and all the generations who followus.

Many of these Treasures possess outstandingwilderness attributes and would be invaluableadditions to the National Wilderness PreservationSystem. Others would make excellent National ScenicArea candidates. While some Treasures may not besuitable for Wilderness designation, they have thepotential to recover from past degradation. If notfurther disrupted, they will be of ever growing value inmaintaining the biological diversity and ecologicalintegrity of the region.

With increasing population and developmentpressures, places to escape to the “sounds of silence”and enjoy nature’s song are increasingly rare in ourlandscape. Places to be treasured, they are where thewild things are. These remote sanctuaries are ournatural heritage and a vital necessity for sustaining thehealth of not only ourselves, but also all that we callhome. They are where we go to hike, camp, watchbirds, mountain bike, hunt, and fish. In a sea of noiseand development, this place we call the GeorgeWashington National Forest is nothing less than amodern-day Ark, precious and irreplaceable.

The maps used in this report are the Forest Servicerecreation maps for the George Washington National Forest,dated 1983, and available from the agency for $6.75 each. Onthe maps in this report, a heavy black line denotes thegeneral boundary of the wildland. Broken lines indicate thatan area extends beyond the Virginia boundary into WestVirginia and the Monongahela National Forest. Shadedareas represent land in federal ownership. Heavily shadedareas are designated Wilderness or the Shenandoah NationalPark. Unshaded areas are private land. The cluster maps aremuch reduced in scale, and vary in scale to fit the page.

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ConservationVirginia’s Mountain Treasures embrace a wide spectrum of values in the natural world. They lend

themselves to a wide variety of conservation methods. Some of these require specific legislation from theCongress of the United Sates. Others can be implemented by administrative action through the forest planningprocess. Into which category each of these Treasures should fall is a matter of negotiation between the ForestService, the Congress, and the informed citizens of the region. It is important to distinguish betweenCongressional and administrative actions, since the latter may be changed at any time.

Wilderness The highest level of protection available to oneof these treasures is designation as a unit of the NationalWilderness Preservation System. A Wilderness Area is offlimits to logging, mining, road building, permanentstructures, and mechanical transportation, althoughexceptions are allowed for fire, rescue, and protection of theresources. Only Congress can designate or alter aWilderness Area.

National Scenic Area Another congressional designationis the National Scenic Area. This does not necessarilyprovide the same degree of protection as the WildernessSystem, since there is no agreed standard such as is laiddown in the Wilderness Act of 1964. Each National ScenicArea is crafted to suit the local conditions, and may permitsome of the actions, such as mountain biking, that are notallowed in Wilderness Areas. Nevertheless an NSA isestablished by Congress, and only Congress can effect achange in its status. The Forest Service may declare a localScenic Area by administrative action.

National Wild and Scenic Rivers System Congress isresponsible for placing rivers into this national system.Virginia is one of a very few states that have no rivers at allin the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. The ForestService, by administrative action, may recommend a river forinclusion.

Wilderness Study Area This can be designated either byan administrative action or by an act of Congress. A WSA issometimes managed as if it were Wilderness pending finalcongressional action.

Inventoried Roadless Areas This designation is now influx. Originally established by presidential mandate, itexemplifies the difficulties associated with administrativedesignation. Since the Inventory was originally

accomplished, there have been changes, and attemptedchanges, to the meaning and extent of the roadlessdesignation. There is now a campaign to have the Congressestablish the IRA category.

Special Geological, Botanical/Zoological, or Cultural/Heritage Areas These are administratively designatedareas, chosen by the Forest Service for some unique naturalor cultural quality that deserves protection. The emphasis ison the protection of that resource.

Old Growth Forest Communities These communities aredesignated administratively for the protection of old growth,although in some of them commercial timber harvesting isallowed.

Scenic Corridors This is an administrative designation tomaintain the visual quality of gateway communities andbackdrop areas.

Sensitive Species Habitat Conservation Areas Thisadministrative designation is used to protect special habitatsfor threatened or endangered species. Again, some of thesehabitats may be subject to logging.

Source Water Protection Watersheds These watershedsare designated administratively. Nevertheless they are“suitable” for timber production.

Rare Communities This administrative designation isdesigned to protect unusual ensembles of species notfrequently found in the forest.

Remote Backcountry Although this administrativecategory sounds as if it should maintain its primitivecondition, in some of these areas motorized recreation isallowed.

A number of other special categories are available for administrative protection of sensitive resources. Itmust be borne in mind, however, that many of these administrative designations do not fully protect theresources, as implied, and also that the designations may change without due consideration The surest way toconservation is though congressional action.

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18 Virginia’s Mountain Treasures

When I was a boy, before World War II, myfather took me to the top of Apple OrchardMountain to see the spring warbler migration andthe spectacular rhododendron groves. I rememberhis indignation when those lovely mountain forestswere turned into an industrial site by the FAA andthe Bedford Air Force Station. True, some of thedevastation has been cleared away, but themountain will never be the same again.

As a result of this early experience I haveworked all my adult life to see that this does nothappen again to Virginia’s Mountain Treasures.The challenges change with time – logging,aircraft navigation, gas and oil development, celltowers, and wind factories – but the only way toensure the integrity of our finest Treasures is toplace them in the National Wilderness PreservationSystem.

Jim MurrayVirginia Wilderness Committee

A view from Whites Peak Photo by Mark Miller

In the late 1960’s I was very involved at homewith a young family, and I remember that myhusband was often away, “doing something aboutwilderness with Ernie Dickerman”. I was toobusy domestically to follow exactly what. Later,when the children were old enough to go along onfamily hikes, we would often go to wilderness orpotential wilderness areas. I remember saying toJim, “why didn’t you tell me that all this was outhere?” And he replied, “Ernie and I have beentrying to – for years.” Thus began mycommitment, which continues today, to theNational Wilderness Preservation System.

Bess MurrayVirginia Wilderness Committee

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Virginia’s Mountain Treasures 19

RecommendationsThe Forest Service should defer timber sales

and road construction in these areas while thenew George Washington National Forestmanagement plan is being developed. This willensure that these areas are protected during their studyin the planning process and during public comment ontheir future. In December 2005, the Governor ofVirginia petitioned the Secretary of Agriculture toprohibit road construction and commercial timberharvesting in all of the inventoried roadless areas inVirginia, consistent with the 2001 Roadless AreaConservation Rule. The Forest Service should includeall the wildlands in this report meeting roadlessinventory criteria in the new plan’s revised roadlessinventory. All of the areas meeting the roadless

inventory criteria should be protected consistent withthe 2001 Rule until the completion of the planningprocess.

In the upcoming forest plan revision, theForest Service should remove all of the areas inthis report from the timber base, and ensure theirlong-term protection through a variety ofmanagement prescriptions. The Forest Serviceshould recommend suitable candidates fordesignation by Congress as Wilderness orNational Scenic Areas. In addition, the agency canand should use administrative designations in the forestplan such as backcountry, old-growth forest, high-quality watershed, or scenic areas for protection of theremaining wildlands in this proposal.

What You Can Do To HelpStrong citizen support is needed to protect thesemountain treasures. You can help in the followingways:

Get on the mailing list to comment on theproposed forest plan revision.

Contact:

George Washington National Forest Plan Revision5162 Valleypointe ParkwayRoanoke, VA 24019

Also, visit the agency’s web site at www.fs.fed.us/r8/gwj/ or call the Forest Service toll-free at (888)265-0019.

Visit and enjoy these areas, and become aknowledgeable advocate for their protection. Mapsand guides are available from the Forest Service, the

Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the NationalGeographic Society, and other sources. Some of thecosponsoring groups host trips to these wildlands.

Comment on the draft forest plan, urging theForest Service to protect these mountain treasures inthe forest plan, and to recommend suitable areas toCongress for preservation as Wilderness, Wild andScenic Rivers, and National Scenic Areas. Also sendyour comments to your federal representative and twosenators at:

US SenateWashington, DC 20510

US House of RepresentativesWashington, DC 20515