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EXCLUSIVE

INTERVIEW WITH

PATRICK CHALHOUB

•GOLD ON 27 BAR OPENS IN DUBAI

•NAVA + NAVA

DESIGNS FOR RUBELLI

•DYSON

LAUNCHES FIRST

HAIRDRYER

•DOLCE & GABBANA

COLLABORATES

WITH SMEG

•RAF SIMONS TO SHOW AT

PITTI UOMO

•ELIE SAAB

LAUNCHES BRIDAL

•PLUS: Q&A

WITH LUCY CHOI

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Industry reports

10 Fashion & Accessories

12 Travel & Aviation

13 Interiors & Design

18 Jewellery & Watches

20 Food & Drink

22 Hospitality

26 Beauty & Wellbeing

Regulars1 Contents

2 Events Calendar

24 Luxury retail property news

London, Europe & New York

33 Wealth Report

Wealth-X

34 Brand Matters

Georgia Fendley

35 Q&A

Lucy Choi

Features

4 Insight Feature

PATRICK CHALHOUB, co-CEO of Chalhoub Group, discusses

the findings of their new White Paper at an exclusive

LUXURY BRIEFING breakfast.

14 Luxury Focus

JULIA ZALTZMAN takes a looks at the burgeoning world of

subscription-based male grooming.

23 Luxury Futures

Over a six-part series RUTH MARSHALL-JOHNSON and

SHIFRA COOK delve into how some of the smartest thinkers

and inventors are shaking up different elements of our lives

with new tech and digital innovations.

28 Limited Editions

THERESA HAROLD meets Peter Bellerby, founder of Bellerby & Co.

Globemakers, in his North London studio to talk globes, gores, and

Google Maps.

C O N T E N T S

INTERNATIONAL PARIS AIR SHOWThe largest and longest-running aerospace trade show in the world returns for its 52nd outing – 19-25 June 2016

Le Bourget exhibition centre, Paris

THE LONDON LUXURY EXPO 2016Showcase of global brands across every sector of the luxury industry – 30 June – 2 July 2016

ExCel Centre London/London City Airport Private Jet Centre

THE SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOWThe largest recreational marine event in the southern hemisphere – 28 July – 1 August 2016

Sydney Exhibition Centre at Glebe Island and Cockle Bay Marina in Darling Harbour

CITI WORLD LUXURY EXPO, SEOULLeading brands exhibit to invitation-only HNWI audience – 2-4 September 2016

Grand Hyatt, Seoul

HONG KONG WATCH AND CLOCK FAIRThe 35th edition of the annual timepiece trade show – 6-10 September 2016

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

LUXURY HOSPITALITY CONFERENCE & EXPOPremier event for the luxury, hospitality and wellness travel communities – 25-27 September 2016

Washington D.C., Gaylord National Resort & Convention Center

GLOBAL WELLNESS SUMMIT International gathering of global wellness industry leaders – 17-19 October 2016

KitzKongress, Kitzbühel, Tyrol

THE LUXURY TRAVEL FAIRCondé Nast Traveller presents a collection of the finest and most unique holidays – 3-6 November 2016

Olympia, London

VOICESBusiness of Fashion’s annual summit for fashion insiders – 1-3 December 2016

Soho Farmhouse, Oxfordshire

E V E N T S C A L E N D A R

Luxury Briefing

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luxury briefing

C O N T R I B U T O R S

FMS Global Media | Editorial: Harriet Linder, Sophie Walker, Theresa Harold Subscription Manager: [email protected]

Theresa Harold

Born in Hong Kong, luxury lifestyle journalist Theresa Harold has worked for numerous print and online publications in Asia and Europe. During the course of her career, she has interviewed celebrities, designers, CEOs — and memorably, a prince.

Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook

Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook are co-founders of COIN Research, an independent consultancy that helps organisations anticipate tomorrow’s consumer and match the product, brand and marketing to their needs. Shifra develops unique proprietary research tools to better profile and understand luxury consumers and Ruth identifies the relationship between cultural development and consumer behaviours.

Keith Wilson

Keith is one of the founding directors of Wilson Mchardy, a boutique agency providing investment, development and leasing advice to key clients in the luxury market. Responsible for many headline projects in London, Keith has provided strategic advice for Grosvenor Estates, Dunhill, Chanel, Richemont and Groupe Arnault among others.

Faith Hope Consolo

Revered worldwide as the ‘Queen of Retail,’ Faith Hope Consolo’s prognostications on shopping and consumption are heeded by world-class designers, mass retailers, start-up boutiques, property owners and municipalities around the world. She has her pulse on the retail scene in New York City, and the world’s great shopping centres and high streets.

Julia Zaltzman

Writer, editor, and project manager Julia Zaltzman specialises in luxury lifestyle feature writing, and the production of bespoke coffee-table books. The editor of FRASER, the magazine for Fraser Yachts brokerage house, and Natural Beauty News, she writes for high-end consumer and customer magazines with an ultra high net worth readership.

Georgia Fendley

Georgia has spent a career immersed in luxury brands – as designer, art director, brand strategist, branding agency owner, industry mentor and, of course, savvy consumer. As Brand Director of Mulberry (2008–2012), she helped to steer the company through its greatest period of financial and geographical growth and her perspective on the industry, from inside and out, is therefore acutely perceptive.

With over 60 years of experience

in the industry, Chalhoub Group

is the leading partner for luxury

brands across the Middle East.

Its founder, Michel Chalhoub,

started the business licensing

foreign brands in Damascus,

Syria in 1955. Today, the Group

is based in Dubai and remains

a family business run by sons

Anthony and Patrick Chalhoub.

By merging its knowledge of

the Middle Eastern market with

expert insight into the luxury

industry, Chalhoub Group’s

success can be seen in its growing

workforce of 12,000 people across

14 countries.

Can you tell us about the

genesis of the White Paper?

There were very few publications

talking about luxury in the

Middle East, and as the leading

group for luxury in the region,

we felt we had something

important to say. Now, every year

we take a look at a subject,

which we feel, is of relevance.

This year, we felt the Middle

Eastern market is entering into

a new phase of its development.

A phase which is, I would say,

the end of an era of abundance.

We don’t think that what

we’re seeing, at least from our

perspective, is something that

we would call a ‘crisis’ or a

‘downturn’. We think that we

are living in a phase that will

bring us to a new way of doing

business in the Middle East.

We felt it was important to

share with some of our partners

what we feel is the new situation,

and how as a group we could

adapt to it.

How do you see the Middle

East luxury situation

compared to Europe?

If I have to compare the

Middle East to Europe in terms

of luxury…Well, in Europe –

especially in the past few years

– we have focused on mainly

servicing people visiting

Europe; a lot of Americans,

Arabs, Japanese, not to mention

the Chinese.

I felt luxury was somehow

losing its own roots with the

local population. Recently,

with the devaluation of the

euro compared to the dollar –

or the appreciation of the dollar

compared to the euro – Europe

enjoyed a boost to the luxury

business, because it attracted a

lot of people from all over the

world who could buy luxury at

a more affordable price in Europe

and also in London.

Now, in the Middle East (perhaps

with the exception of Dubai)

95% of our customers are local

Middle Eastern, local GCC,

customers. Even in Dubai, where

we have a lot of visitors from all

over the world, it has become

much more of a local market.

It is very interesting because

it means we are really catering

for our market and those

Middle Eastern customers. So

it’s important we know how to

cater to them well.

Another element is that in

Europe, there has been a shift in

selling luxury. It has transformed

into a story-telling experience

for the customers. I think in

the Middle East – especially back

in its era of easy selling – a lot

of companies weren’t looking

into this, but now it is becoming

a necessity.

Bridging

The Gulf FOLLOWING THE LAUNCH OF CHALHOUB GROUP’S FOURTH ANNUAL WHITE PAPER,

PATRICK CHALHOUB, JOINT CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, TALKS TO LUXURY BRIEFING ABOUT THE MODERN FACE OF LUXURY IN THE GULF

Luxury Briefing Issue 187

I N S I G H T F E AT U R E

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Issue 187 Luxury Briefing

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How has the rise of digital

media affected the luxury

market in the Middle East?

For some time, the luxury

world thought it would never

be taken by the digital world.

It was the wrong assumption.

Today, digital has entered

everyone’s homes, and in

our pockets. It’s a way of life.

Our Middle Eastern customers –

more so than other places –

are extremely connected.

For some of them, it’s the way

they connect to the outside

world. They spend a lot of time

on their digital devices.

Initially for luxury, they

were more using it to look at

what’s happening elsewhere in

the world, surfing site to site.

Then, social media became the

phenomenon it is now. Recently,

customers have been using the

Internet to compare prices.

In the last few years, we have seen

more of our customers connect

to e-commerce in general.

Nowadays, we cannot

promote our brand and our

products if we don’t utilise digital.

As for e-commerce, the

Middle East has its own

specifications. A lot of people

do not yet trust payment terms,

so on our websites 75% of our

sales are done ‘cash on delivery’,

not through credit cards.

Some people don’t want to give

their address, so there are also

a lot of ‘cash and collect’ orders.

This probably means a higher

rate of return, because people are

not committed.

In the White Paper, you mention

three archetypes of the Gulf

consumer: the gazelle, the horse,

and the falcon.

Most of our customers,

we consider are in the ‘horse’

category. That means buying

luxury in order to show their

wealth and demonstrate their

personality through products.

Very proud of being themselves.

When we did the study,

which was about five years ago

now, about 70% of consumers

had this attitude. Today, it is

just over 50%. I have seen this

transformation, probably because

our customers became much

more sure of themselves, much

more educated, and connected

having travelled.

The gazelle attitude, which

is more about taking pleasure in

self-expression and social media,

Previous page: Patrick Chalhoub at Grovesnor House Suites

This page (Above and below): Level Shoes by Chalhoub Group; Katakeet Store

Opposite page, Fiona Sanderson, founder of The Luxury Channel, talks with Patrick Chalhoub



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went from about 20% to 40% of

our customers. The third one,

which we are seeing more and

more of but is still very minimal,

is this falcon attitude. This is a

customer who is more interested

in experiences and the personal

relationships. This was at nearly

0% five years ago, but today is

about 5%.

This evolution of attitudes

goes very much hand-in-hand

with the emancipation of

women, which we have seen

in places like Saudi Arabia.

Previously, women weren’t

allowed to work but today more

women are starting to work.

What is the mix of smaller

brands and larger brands in

the Middle East?

In the past, there has been a total

predominance of big luxury

brands. This was because the

customers themselves needed to

be reassured by the well-known

brands. Customers would go into

monobrand stores and so it was

tougher for the smaller brands to

penetrate the market.

But the shift in customer

behavior to someone much more

sure of himself, now they want

to browse, they want elements of

differentiation. It has opened the

doors for a lot of other brands.

Let’s talk about you now.

Was it always your intention

to join your father’s business?

Not really. When I was at school

and college, I had different

dreams. I was very good at maths,

so I wanted to do something

with that. I wanted to understand

how the brain could function.

You know, very logical. It’s true

that when you are young, you

have a lot of dreams. But I lived in

a family where business was part

of everyday life. I used to go into

my mother and father’s office

when I was 12, 13 14 years old.

Can you tell us more about

how you began?

When I started my career, I didn’t

start within the family business.

I went to the US in order to try

to understand a more aggressive

marketing than what we used to

have for luxury products.

It taught me to always try

to understand the customer

and put them first. Whereas,

at the time, the luxury world

was focused on expressing their

brand and letting customers

come to them. So the first thing

it brought to me was ‘let us go to

the customer’, and then always

go one step further.

When I joined the family

business we had about 100

team members. When I became

the CEO about 15 years ago,

we had 1,000 people. Today, we

are 12,000 people. So we have

grown quite a lot. It has been

quite a transformation of the

group organisation.

At that time, I would say

our role was mainly to be the

ambassador for those luxury


In the past, there has been a total predominance of big luxury brands. This was because the customers themselves needed to be reassured

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brands. Gradually, we moved

from this function of being an

ambassador because I felt that we

needed to be more engaged. We

changed from being ambassadors

to becoming partners.

Another change is that we

have moved very much into

retail. We have transformed our

business from predominantly

distribution to retail. Again,

it comes back to putting the

customer first.

Why did your parents start

the business?

It’s a long story. It was about

60 years ago. I would say, at

that time, they were attracted

by beautiful things. My father

was studying law and he started

working part-time in a watch

store. He was living in Damascus

at the time. He really fell in

love with luxury items, and he

decided that he would open his

own store. He opened a store

for Christofle, which was a

silverware brand. He opened a

small store just next to the watch

shop where he was working.

He got the support of my

grandfather to finance part

of it. Then he opened this tiny

store for Christofle, which was

quite unusual at the time – to

have a freestanding store for only

one brand.

When it opened he learnt

two things. One, he cannot only

wait for the customers, so he had

to go and bring the business.

He actually went to the president

of Syria at the time, and he asked

to meet him. Obviously, no one

wanted to give him an audience!

But he really insisted. He said

it was something important.

Then he probably met the

secretary etc. After being so

persistent, he finally met the

President. And it was all just to

promote this silverware product!

My father had heard that they

were changing the silverware

at the palace. So in the end his

persistence won and he received

an order for his products.

After that, my father felt

it was not enough to go there.

He needed a bigger market.

He started going to those Arab

countries where there was more

AS FOR DUBAI, IT’S A VERY WELL CONNECTED PLACE. IT’S A PLACE WHERE WE HAVE PEOPLE COMING FROM A WIDE VARIETY OF BACKGROUNDS, WHO COME TO DUBAI TO MINGLE AND DISCUSS

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distribution. Then he started

selling a few perfumes alongside

the silverware – but more

business-to-business than retail.

This was how it started.

By moving from one category

to several categories, to moving

territories. And this took about

ten years. It was very difficult

and very complicated to start the

business, but he caught the wave

of luxury coming to the region.

You’re very much a family

business today – your co-CEO

is your brother. How do you

make that work?

For some time, we split our work

between territories. But then

we felt that we could not build

the group with this perspective,

so we decided to change. Now

we split our roles by function

rather than by territories – so my

brother takes care of the legal,

I.T., and I deal more with the

commercial part of it.

We are very different

characters. We have to have

a very strong relationship,

one of trust, respect, and

communication – which goes

back to our core values.

You have two sons. Do you

want them to follow in

your footsteps?

The reality is I’m not sure if

I want them to or not. What I

want is for them to be happy,

which is the most important

thing. I have always told them,

if one day they want to join the

company, they must want it and

they must deserve it. It’s for them

to want it, but even then it’s not

enough, they have to deserve

it. Having said that, because we

are very much attached to our

family values and to the family

sustainability of the business,

I have tried to train them

from a young age to be good

stakeholders within the group.

For me, being part of the

group means that they have to

understand part of their role

is to make sure that we have

family values, which reflect

the group values, which is

reflected in everything which

we do. They are the guardians

of this. They are perhaps not

the guardians of finance, or

operation, but they are the

guardians of the family values.

In the meantime, they are

quite busy with their college

studies. One of my sons has

been quite the entrepreneur;

he launched Sport360.com.

How many languages do

you speak?

I speak three languages fluently:

English, French, and Arabic.

I do understand a few words

in Spanish, for two reasons.

One, we deal with some Spanish

partners. Two, I have a daughter-

in-law who is Chilean. If they

have grandchildren and they

speak Spanish, then I will have to

become more fluent!

For me, there is the language

barrier – and it’s important to

break that – but there is also

the cultural barrier. It’s very

important that we understand

what the culture is about. So

in the Middle East, understand

what Middle Eastern culture is

about, and in France, the French

culture, and so on. Especially

when we deal with luxury,

because part of it is about the

heritage and the society itself.

What do you enjoy most about

living in Dubai?

Anywhere in the world, you

could be happy; and anywhere

in the world, you could be

disappointed. It depends on how

you look at things. Wherever it

is, I always train myself and my

family to get the best out of what

we have.

As for Dubai, it’s a very

well connected place. It’s a

place where we have people

coming from a wide variety of

backgrounds, who come to

Dubai to mingle and discuss.

This openness is absolutely

great. Another thing I love

about Dubai is its vibrancy.

It’s great for our business, but

it’s also good for the individual

to be in a vibrant place.

What do you enjoy most about

your job?

People. Really. Connecting with

people.

What has been the proudest

moment of your career?

For me, in my career, two things

have definitely forged me.

The times of difficulties, so

when there was the Iraq invasion

or when we had a crises etc.,

so this prompted us to make

decisions. And also times of

opportunities. Sometimes we

speak a lot about failures, or

problems, and how we learn from

them. But we can also reflect on

successes. When you sign a big

contract, take the time to say

‘what brought me to this?’.

Luxury Briefing subscribers can read

the complete White Paper, enclosed

within the current issue

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HARVEY NICHOLS RE-OPENS MENSWEAR DEPARTMENTLuxury retailer Harvey Nichols has introduced their new menswear space, which boasts 270 brands over 28,000-square feet. “This is a milestone moment for our brand as it marks the first unveiling of our 4 year plan to refurbish our iconic Knightsbridge

store,” said Stacey Cartwright, Group Chief Executive Officer at Harvey Nichols. “It’s a hugely exciting time for the menswear market and we couldn’t have picked a better time to create the ultimate shopping destination for menswear in London.” In addition to world-class shopping, visitors can take advantage of the Style Concierge suite, contemporary café and bar, and traditional barbers in-store.

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VIKTOR & ROLF EXHIBITION IN MELBOURNEOpening October 2016 at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) in Melbourne, Australia, Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists is the first exhibition of its kind. Developed in partnership with the National Gallery of Victoria, fashion house Viktor&Rolf will showcase some of the most innovative and extraordinary designs

of their career. This will include over 35 haute couture pieces from the designers’ collections, alongside earlier designs from the Viktor&Rolf archive. “Viktor&Rolf stretches the definition of both fashion and art,’ said Tony Ellwood, Director, NGV. “Their boundary-pushing designs challenge the way fashion is developed, presented and disseminated with masterful craftsmanship, intellectual rigour and an ironic sense of humour.”

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ISABELLA BLOW EXHIBITION COMES TO SYDNEY’S POWERHOUSE MUSEUM The wardrobe of inimitable English fashion editor and stylist Isabella Blow, who passed away nearly a decade ago, will be showcased in an exclusive exhibition at the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney from May 14th – July 17th. Isabella Blow: A Fashionable

Life will feature works from iconic designers such as Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy OBE and Hussein Chalayan. The exhibition will be accompanied by a series of public programs, including an in-conversation event with Daphne Guinness – who purchased Blow’s wardrobe and established the Isabella Blow Foundation. Minister for Trade, Tourism and Major Events Stuart Ayres said, “Visitors will discover an incredible fashion collection [...] that can’t be seen anywhere else in Australia or our region.”

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DOLCE & GABBANA COLLABORATES WITH SMEGDolce & Gabbana has joined forces with Italian appliance brand Smeg to create an exclusive range of 100 hand-painted, one-of-a-kind refrigerators. Retailing at £30,000 each, the colourful appliances have been decorated by local Sicilian artists under the creative direction of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

Heavily influenced by provincial symbols and medieval scenes, the flamboyant FAB28R-DG refrigerators celebrate family tradition, heritage, and ‘Made in Italy’ excellence. The first examples from the collection were shown at the Salone Internazionale del Mobile 2016 in Milan. Although Smeg has a history of high-profile partnerships with companies such as BMW and Swarovski, it is the first time the domestic appliance company has paired with an haute couture fashion brand.

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YVES SAINT LAURENT APPOINTS ANTHONY VACCARELLO Following the departure of Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent has welcomed Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello as Creative Director. The 36-year old – who has previously worked at Fendi and Versus Versace – is best known for his sharp tailoring techniques. Francesca Bellettini, President and

CEO of Yves Saint Laurent, said: “I am extremely happy to have Anthony Vaccarello take the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent. His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison. Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes. He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent.” Anthony Vaccarello will present his first collection for the maison in October 2016, during Paris Spring-Summer 2017 fashion week.

FASHION + ACCESSORIES

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T


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ELIE SAAB LAUNCHES BRIDAL COLLECTIONLebanese designer Elie Saab has moved into bridal wear with the launch of Elie Saab Bridal. The perfect complement to the haute couture and ready-to-wear lines, Elie Saab Bridal offers a modern take on wedding dresses with feminine and daring silhouettes. Starting from €5,500, the collection comprises 25

styles including gowns, shorter dresses, and even a jumpsuit. Although the collection in its entirety won’t launch until October 2016, a selection of styles is already available in stores (Paris, Beirut, Dubai, Hong Kong and at Harrods in London). A digital campaign to accompany the launch centres on an animation of the word ‘oui’ – that magical word with the power to transform a proposal into an engagement.


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BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL REFORMATS AWARDS CEREMONYThe British Fashion Council has announced a new format for The Fashion Awards 2016, which will take place at the iconic Royal Albert Hall. Celebrating the best of British and international talent, the awards ceremony will raise funds for the

British Fashion Council Education Foundation charity. Dame Natalie Massenet, BFC Chairman commented: “Nadja [Swarovski] and her team have made these awards possible and we are thrilled to be working in partnership with them once again. As a global industry we should make a commitment to support talented people from all backgrounds to […] access the best universities in the world. Over the next ten years our ambition is to raise and invest £10million to support young people in this goal.”

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AGENT PROVOCATEUR APPOINTS NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVEBritish luxury lingerie brand Agent Provocateur has announced the appointment of Fabrizio Malverdi as its new Chief Executive. With over 15 years of experience, Malverdi brings a wealth of knowledge from his time at such prestigious brands as Dior Homme, Christian Dior Couture and Givenchy. Fabrizio

Malverdi commented: “I’m really excited to be joining Agent Provocateur, a very successful business with a unique heritage. I look forward to working with the existing management team to lead Agent Provocateur in the next phase of its growth, consolidating its position as a key player in the luxury fashion sector.” Agent Provocateur is backed by 3i, an international investment firm.

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MASSIMILIANO GIORNETTI DEPARTS SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Florentine fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo has announced the departure of Massimiliano Giornetti as Creative Director. Giornetti, who joined Ferragamo in 2000 in the menswear design team, progressed steadily within the family-owned company before being appointed Creative

Director in 2011. In the wake of Giornetti’s resignation, the maison has said it will recruit from within. “We will take this opportunity to revisit our creative approach,” commented Michele Norsa, Group CEO. “Over time the company has nurtured and sponsored many young designers and is fortunate to be able to count on an excellent in-house team.”

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FRENCH LACEMAKER SOPHIE HALLETTE ACQUIRES CODENTEL French lacemaker Sophie Hallette has won the bid to acquire Codentel, one of the last remaining companies representing Calais’ lacemaking heritage. The acquisition follows news that Sophie Halette’s parent company Groupe Holesco received a minority investment

from Chanel. “With Chanel, we share a strong desire to internationally promote Calais’ unique place and magnify the results worldwide for this unique French lace industry so essential to haute couture, fashion brands and designers,” said Romain Lescroart, president of Sophie Hallette. “It is important to maintain these exceptional skills and unique group of Leavers in France. These two-hundred year old looms let us create the high-end, labeled laces so essential to meet the demands of today’s creative markets.”


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TRUSSARDI DESIGNS INTERIORS FOR DYNAMIQ YACHTSThe best of Milan and Monaco collide as Italian fashion house Trussardi joins forces with Dynamiq Yachts to create an exclusive interior design collection for the D4 series model range. Tomaso Trussardi, CEO of Trussardi Group comments, “We are very excited to be working with Dynamiq

Yachts on this special project that blends the craftsmanship of our Trussardi Casa creations with the avant-garde and futuristic technology of these yachts.” In addition to furniture, clients can also select from a range of home fragrance that includes candles, diffusers and room fragrance sprays. An excusive apparel range to tie-in with this special Trussardi for Dynamiq collection will soon follow, featuring summer clothes, hats and luggage.

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BENTLEY PARTNERS WITH SIR PETER BLAKE Celebrated British artist Sir Peter Blake has designed a one-of-a-kind Bentley Continental GT V8 S Convertible in his signature bold pop art style. Commenting on the collaboration, Sir Peter commented: “I am proud to have been involved with transforming this beautiful car, and have enormous admiration

for the people at Bentley who brought my design into being, to produce this one-off lovely car.” This unique car will be auctioned for charity by Bonhams at the Goodwood Festival of Speed on 24 June, with all funds raised to be donated to Care2Save Charitable Trust. The Sir Peter Blake design, which also includes a personalised playlist from the artist’s favourite music, is the second Bentley Continental GT Bentley is donating to the Care2Save Charitable Trust.

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BMW UNLEASHES 7 SERIES CENTENNIAL MODELIn recognition of BMW’s 100th anniversary, the carmakers have created a limited edition model with three drive variants. These are the BMW 740Le iPerformance and BMW 740Le xDrive iPerformance with plug-in hybrid system, the V8 model BMW 750Li and BMW 750Li xDrive as

well as the BMW M760Li xDrive featuring a twelve-cylinder power unit. As the sixth generation of the luxury sedan, the new BMW 7 Series has raised the standards for comfort, style and efficiency. Formally titled ‘BMW Individual 7 Series THE NEXT 100 YEARS’, the range also comes with a unique Montblanc for BMW fountain pen, limited to 100 pieces.

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NEW PRIVATE CHARTER TRAVEL COMPANY WINGSFounded by Douglas Hopkins, Wings is a new bespoke travel company offering accessible private jet or helicopter travel. Having been a pilot for over thirty years – thirteen of which were spent as a captain on private jets – Hopkins brings a wealth of expertise. “The travel industry is changing and customers rightfully

expect personable service, attention to detail and the utmost in luxury jet charter,” says Hopkins. Based in Ireland, Wings works with a range of aviation companies and operates out of most airports. With no fleet of its own, costs are kept to a minimum. The company also offers a complete concierge service in conjunction with yacht, villa and limousine hire companies.

2

GULFSTREAM INSTALLS UPGRADE TThe U.S. Federal Aviation Administration has approved Gulfstream Aerospace Corp.’s upgrade on GIV-SP aircraft. The mandated avionics upgrade known as Future Air Navigation System (FANS) 1/A+ uses automation and satellite-based technology to boost communication and traffic management. Not only does the upgrade enhance

safety and optimise flight time (making the planes more fuel-efficient), it also reduces the pilot’s workload and includes automated position reporting. “Like our solution for GV aircraft, this system was developed by Gulfstream and Honeywell to fully integrate with the GIV-SP flight deck,” said Derek Zimmerman, president, Gulfstream Product Support. “It is not a stand-alone system. The full functionality of the flight management system — auto throttle, autopilot, and vertical navigation — is retained.”

TRAVEL + AVIATION



5

WILNELIA FORSYTH LONDON LAUNCHES NEW CANDLE COLLECTIONLady Wilnelia Forsyth has launched a new range of hand-poured candles inspired by the exquisite fragrances of the Caribbean. ““The collection is inspired by some of my earliest recollections,” reveals Forsyth. “Sitting with my grandfather in his garden, my brother

close by under the mango tree, drinking water from a fresh coconut. All around us the scent of tuberose....” Each of the five candles is named after a scent, a flower, or an ethereal memory: Jungle Orchid, Valle de Collores, Azucena, Cunde Amor, Moon Flower. Available exclusively at Fortnum & Mason, a percentage of the profits will go to the Wilnelia Forsyth Foundation.

4

VERSACE BRINGS THE HOME COLLECTION IN-HOUSEAs of this year, the Versace Home collection will be brought in-house to create a fully comprehensive Versace world. The Versace Home division, which was launched in 1992, offers a collection of home textiles, interiors and furniture. “Versace Home has been part of Versace DNA since the

very beginning,” said Gian Giacomo Ferraris, CEO of Versace. “To bring it in-house is a natural step forward to pursue our strategy to increase and further develop the Company. Versace Home is an important asset for the brand and will improve its potential in-house”. The internalisation strategy has been made possible thanks to two exclusive producer relationships with Cassina Contract (furniture) and Nemo (lighting). The textile division continues to be produced and distributed by Versace.Interdum et malesuada fames.

3

VANDERHURD RELEASES NEW RUG COLLECTIONRenowned design studio Vanderhurd has launched its latest rug collection, titled Amelia Truss. A hand-woven sumac construction, the rugs were made on an upright loom using 85% linen yarns. The remaining 15% is made up of viscose yarn, which lends both strength and shine to the design. Available in five

colourways (as well as custom colours through the bespoke division), the rugs are individually woven and dyed by hand in India. The Amelia Truss design also marks the first collaboration between Creative Director Christine Van Der Hurd and her son-in-law Jacob Van Horn, Vanderhurd New York Studio Director.

1

MOOOI PARTNERS WITH KLAUS HAAPANIEMI Interiors and lifestyle brand Moooi has teamed up with Klaus Haapaniemi & Co. for the second time with a collection of five carpets. The rugs have been adapted from the recently launched ‘Polar Byzantine’ silk scarf collection, and are based on the story of magical Arctic animals by award-winning Finnish author,

Rosa Liksom. Moooi’s high-resolution printing methods have breathed life and vibrancy into the story of the animals’ escape from a melting landscape to an ice palace far away. The collection debuted in Milan as part of the Salone del Mobile.

2

NAVA + NAVA DESIGNS FOR RUBELLI Milan Design Week saw the Rubelli Group continue to foster emerging design talent with a number of launches and collaborations. One such partnership is with Nava + Nava Design Studio, who have created a capsule collection of handmade PILA-47 chairs upholstered in choice fabrics from the Rubelli portfolio. Showcasing

a new way of seating, the rounded furniture comprises a wooden seat with a textile sleeve that can be reshaped according to the user’s needs. The innovative product champions Rubelli’s Venetian textile history and retails for £1,450.

INTERIORS + DESIGN



13

14


L U X U R Y F O C U S

VALUEFACE

WORDS BY JULIA ZALTZMAN

ONCE THE PRESERVE OF BEAUTY-CONSCIOUS WOMEN WITH LITTLE TIME ON THEIR HANDS, GROOMING SUBSCRIPTION SITES ARE NOW A FLOURISHING MARKET FOR MEN TOO. BUT DON’T

CONFUSE CONVENIENCE FOR CUT-PRICE, AS LUXURY BRANDS SUCH AS HOMMAGE TESTIFY

14

15


Favoured for delivering value,

convenience and quality, it has

historically been the female

targeted sites, such as US-based

Birchbox and its key competitor

in Europe, Glossybox, that

have driven the market for

subscription sites. However, with

the rise of internet sales and

the ability to customise orders,

a host of male-targeted luxury

subscription sites have exploded

onto the market.

“For HOMMAGE, convenience

went hand-in-hand with the

brand’s bespoke and catered-

to-him attributes,” says Ball.

“HOMMAGE was built from the

ground up to be designed only

for men.”

The question has been raised

whether the very element of

convenience is at odds with the

essence of luxury, but with big

labels, including couture fashion

house Hermès seeking exposure

for its whimsical Petit h line,

and high-end jewellers Cartier

and Chopard expanding their

affluent consumers’ collections

through a new subscription

programme, the sceptics are

being silenced.

Pitched as luxury concierge

services that connect their

clients with hand-selected

products direct to their door, it

is sites such as HOMMAGE and

Svbscription (which charges

US$330 a quarter for a personally

To put it simply, the business

of male grooming is booming.

Never before have we witnessed

such a global surge in both sales

of, and interest in, cosmetics

by the male population. The

Independent recently reported

a 300 per cent growth in men’s

beauty and grooming products

in 2015 for high-end etailer

Mrporter.com, while the world

market for 2016 has an estimated

value of £14.8 billion.

Even more importantly,

the market is still growing and

diversifying, and it’s the fairly

recent phenomena of luxury

subscription services that

have taken up the mantle and

run with it. Much like their

online retailer counterparts,

subscription sites transcend

physical barriers, which has

helped to fuel their rapid

worldwide growth particularly

within the top 10 boom markets

for men’s toiletries, which

includes Brazil, South Korea, the

US, Germany, India, China and

the UK.

“Today, the men’s grooming

market is mature,” says Kim Ball,

executive of brand integration

at HOMMAGE, luxury male

grooming brand now endorsed

by specialist cosmetic surgeon

Dr Samuel Van Eeden for its anti-

ageing properties. “It’s no longer

a question of ‘do I groom?’, but

rather ‘who do I groom with?’.”

15

HOMMAGE WAS BUILT FROM THE GROUND UP TO BE DESIGNED ONLY FOR MEN

16

Feature: HOMMAGE product line

L U X U R Y F O C U S

1616


curated box), that are causing

the biggest stir. For a monthly fee

Birchbox Man offers customers

three to four deluxe samples

of grooming goods, all custom-

tailored to skin and hair type,

while Luxury Barber selects nine

sample-sized and one full-sized

product every month.

“The purchasing landscape

is changing,” says Blair

Cassuto, director of marketing

communications at Luxury

Barber Club. “Now more than

ever, people are searching

for quality products that

deliver value and are convenient

to get. This luxury subscription

service category is spreading

like wildfire, and this is just

the beginning.”

The combination of bespoke

and limited edition adds to the

appeal in the luxury market,

but it’s the rise of luxury

shaving products that has really

hit the big time. According to

Euromonitor, the most important

story in men’s grooming in the

US continues to be “the stellar

growth of online sales of men’s

shaving products”. Internet sales

reached a whopping US$342

million in 2015, the vast majority

of which consisted of razors

and blades. Online shave clubs

have become big business, and

while less than five per cent of

American men are currently

members, experts believe there

is plenty of upward potential. At

odds with this trend is the UK

market, where the hipster beard

has grown steadily over the last

decade causing a sharp decline in

men’s shaving and forcing brands

to adapt.

“The point of entry, for us,

was to create a unique experience

around the ritual of shaving,”

says Ball. “Shaving and not

grooming was the tangible act

that could be improved. Out in

front of the market, HOMMAGE

was gathering knowledge and

insights and it became evident

that to create a better shaving

experience, we needed to go well

beyond the shave and look at his

overall health and wellness.

“Working with skincare

experts around the world,

HOMMAGE was determined to

evolve its offering to include face

care products designed from the

get-go with him and his male

17

For brands such as HOMMAGE,

which offers pharmaceutical

grade skincare, razor blades

made from surgical steel

and ergonomically designed

and engineered grooming

equipment, this game has only

just got started.

hommage.com

NOW MORE THAN EVER, PEOPLE ARE SEARCHING FOR QUALITY

PRODUCTS THAT DELIVER VALUE AND ARE CONVENIENT TO GET.


skin in mind. For example,

creating an exfoliation made

from Black Diamond Dust that

is tough enough to exfoliate a

man’s skin barrier while being

gentle and protecting.

“So, as shaving has exponentially

grown into grooming,

HOMMAGE is seeing a mirrored

correlation in its product sales.

Shaving products are one aspect

of grooming and face care

another. For every one shave

product, two face care products

are purchased today.”

From bespoke skincare

analyses and scientific research

to a personal concierge delivering

unique experiences, it’s little

wonder that male-targeted

subscription boxes have evolved

into such big business. While

luxury goods are traditionally

positioned as exclusive items

only obtainable for a select

demographic, subscription

services have disrupted the

traditional formula of how high-

end products are experienced.

18

JEWELLERY + WATCHES


4

TIFFANY & CO. ARRIVES AT NET-A-PORTER Tiffany & Co. has formed a pioneering alliance with luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter. “Tiffany is such an important brand in luxury jewellery, and its heritage holds a special meaning for so many of our customers,” said Sarah Rutson, vice president of global buying for Net-A-Porter. “We are thrilled to serve as Tiffany’s first ever global ecommerce

partner, an extraordinary coup for both brands.” The collaboration begins with an edit of the Tiffany T collection, which will be available for a limited time. “With their recognised edit and fashion authority, Net-A-Porter will re-introduce Tiffany as more than the legendary jeweller, but an expression of personal style,” said Philippe Galtie, senior vice president of international sales at Tiffany & Co.

5

VACHERON CONSTANTIN INTRODUCES TAILORING-INSPIRED COLLECTIONDrawing on the sophisticated world of high-end tailoring, Vacheron Constantin has launched a new collection for men: Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale. Stamped with the Geneva Seal, the collection comprises five models with 40mm cases in rose

or grey gold. The main dial is finished in one of five motifs inspired by famous fabrics such as Prince of Wales check, herringbone, and tartan. An off-centre gold subdial at three o’ clock completes the look, acting as a counterpoint – much like a tie or pocket square does to a well-balanced suit. An alligator leather strap in burgundy, dark brown, taupe, or blue, is available, along with a pair of cufflinks that match the subdial’s tapestry-patterned motif.

3

APPLE WATCH HERMÈS LAUNCH NEW COLOURWAYSFirst launched last October, the Apple Watch Hermès has been given a spring makeover with the addition of four new coloured straps: the classic Hermès Bleu Paon (green), Bleu Saphir (blue), Blanc (white) and Feu (orange). For the first time, the special edition wristbands are being made available for purchase from Apple and

Hermès stores, as well as select luxury retail locations. This means that existing and future Apple Watch owners will be able to mix and match straps to their watches, creating their own edition.

1

ZENITH TEAMS UP WITH RALLY ORGANISATION HEROIn classic car rallying, timing is everything, which is why Swiss watch manufacturer Zenith has partnered with the UK based Historic Endurance Rallying Organisation (HERO). The El Primero Chronomaster Open 1969 Hero Cup Edition is limited to 100 pieces, and features a black alligator leather strap

with protective rubber lining and red stitching. Zenith will be the Official Timekeeper of the HERO Cup and the future winner of the HERO Cup will also receive a Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Open. In a stylish twist that horophiles will appreciate, the watch’s opening reveals the beating heart of the El Primero movement.

2

BOODLES INTRODUCES SONIA DELAUNAY-INSPIRED RANGEThe new Prism collection from Boodles features multi-gem bracelets, pendants, rings and earrings as well as a one-of-a-kind, high jewellery collar. Influenced by the abstract paintings of Parisian artist Sonia Delaunay, Boodles Head of Design Rebecca Hawkins used vibrant

gemstones and fine diamonds in angular settings. Hawkins was also inspired by a trip to St. Ives, and the colourful sailing boats of the Cornish seaside town can be seen in the choice of abstract shapes. Prices range from £2,400 for the Prism ring to £36,500 for the Prism bracelet featuring green beryl, red tourmaline, green tourmalines,yellow beryls, rubellites and period set in 18-carat white gold with diamonds.


19


9

PIAGET UPDATES POSSESSION COLLECTIONFine jewellery makers Piaget have updated their Possession Collection with 21 new pieces comprising bangles, rings, earrings, and a statement choker necklace. Speaking about the Hi turning ring from the range, Piaget’s Global Ambassador Jessica Chastain comments, “When I’m wearing my Possession ring, whether I’m working

or daydreaming, I usually find myself turning it, it’s very addictive.” Available in rose, white and yellow gold, the pieces start from £910 for the rose gold classic chain bracelet to £54,500 for the white gold fully paved bangle. To support this expansion, the brand will launch a new Possession print, digital and social media advertising campaign in May.

10

RAYMOND WEIL RELEASES BEATLES TIMEPIECETo mark the 40th anniversary of Raymond Weil, the Swiss watchmaker has released a limited edition timepiece featuring one of the most iconic bands of all time. The maestro Beatles Limited Edition features a mechanical self-winding movement housed in a 39.5mm polished steel case. Fans of the Fab

Four will appreciate thoughtful touches such as the 13 Beatles’ album titles written all around the bespoke dial, with a special ‘Help’ index at 4 o’clock which references their fifth studio album. Elie Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil, commented: “We could not feel more proud to associate our brand name with the exceptional Beatles. Raymond Weil has always been closely linked with music, our dear source of inspiration since our early days.”

7

HUBLOT OPENS FIFTH AVENUE STORESwiss watchmaker Hublot has opened a flagship on New York City’s Fifth Avenue. Designed by Peter Marino, the boutique is the brand’s largest retail location in the United States. Inside, black lava stone, wood floors and graphite-coloured leather furnishings complete the contemporary aesthetic of a brand best known

for its innovative use of materials. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, said: “Hublot is thrilled to share this exciting occasion with the city of New York, where our concept of the Art of Fusion comes to life in full form. Not only are we celebrating our new boutique on Fifth Avenue […] but we are paying tribute to the iconic and innovative All Black collection that Hublot founded exactly 10 years ago.”

6

IWC LAUNCHES BEIJING INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL WATCHIWC Schaffhausen continues their partnership with the Chinese film industry by launching the Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ‘Beijing International Film Festival 2016’. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch is available exclusively at the IWC boutiques in

Beijing and Shanghai. The timepiece features a stainless steel case and a see-through sapphire-glass back bearing the logo of the Beijing International Film Festival. The exclusive timepiece is powered by IWC’s 59210-calibre movement and needs to be wound just once a week. “As a watch manufacturer with strong ties to China, which now has the largest movie industry in the world, IWC is proud to support the Beijing International Film Festival,” explains Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen.

8

.CHRISTOPHER WARD UNVEILS REBRANDBritish luxury watchmakers Christopher Ward has launched a complete rebrand of their logo, website, and the company magazine (renamed Loupe). The new look branding will be displayed on all new timepieces, and highlights the combination of British and Swiss aesthetic. Alongside this revamp, Christopher Ward has

also launched two new watches within its Trident Collection: the C65 Trident Vintage and the C65 Trident Classic. “In July 2014 we merged with Synergies Horlogères,” explains co-founder Mike France. “[…]Having two parts of the business, the UK part and the Swiss, we thought it was an appropriate time to relook at the branding of the business and the brand proposition, because it now had its own atelier and manufacturing arm in Switzerland and we needed to represent that.”


20

4

OZONE BAR CELEBRATES LE FRENCH GOURMAY Organised by the French Trade Commission in Hong Kong, Le French GourMay is an annual celebration of French food and drink culture. This year, the world’s highest bar, Ozone, joins in the festivities with a range of Alsatian delicacies. In addition to a medley of Flammekueche (thinly rolled-out dough, traditionally topped with

pork belly and onion), there will also be a specially crafted cocktail for the occasion. The ever-innovative mixologist Miguel Fernandez has created a drink of foie gras-infused Cognac, 10-year-old port wine, spiced sugar and egg, aptly named Alsace.

5

HOLBORN DINING ROOM LAUNCHES THE GIN BAR The Gin Bar at Rosewood London hotel’s Holborn Dining Room has opened. “We always want to have a strong British feeling in everything we do at Holborn Dining Room, so why not work with the most celebrated UK spirit?” Said bar manager Matthew Sloper. “At over 400 gins and counting, we have the largest

selection of gin in London, which is really exciting – especially when coupled with the 27 different tonics, including our top-secret homemade tonic.” In total, guests can explore an astonishing 14,035 possible gin and tonic pairings from established international brands to small-batch, local distillers.

3

CHAMPEAUX OPENS IN LES HALLES, PARISLocated in historic Les Halles, the new restaurant by Alain Ducasse and Olivier Maurey features a 180-seater dining space, terrace, private salon, bar and lounge. With an emphasis on raw materials and minimalist lines, the décor has a bright and airy feel, which is enhanced by vast bay windows. The menu offers classic

brasserie fare, as well as an impressive wine list and cocktail selection. “We envisioned this space as an original version of a contemporary brasserie,” said Alain Ducasse. A large display board, similar to those found in departure lounges, features a list of dishes and drinks. This is updated over the course of the day to reflect cooking times and product availability.

1

GOLD ON 27 BAR OPENS IN DUBAILocated on the top floor of the iconic Burj Al Arab Jumeriah, the new Gold On 27 bar is an exciting addition to the Dubai social scene. Here, guests can discover innovative cocktails created using premium brands and a range of unusual ingredients such as foie gras, oud oil, and goat cheese foam. “Our team of expert mixologists has

put a huge amount of thought into the menu and we will consistently be pushing the boundaries with ingredients, flavours and theatre to bring the menu to life,” says Paul Bradley, the General Manager at Gold On 27. Bookings can be made through an app, available on both Android and IOS, which is then activated upon arrival at the hotel.

2

LITTLE RED DOOR LAUNCHES THE EVOCATIVE MENUA regular on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, Parisian cocktail bar Little Red Door has unveiled its new Evocative menu. Created in conjunction with eleven diverse artists over the course of a year, the new menu dispenses with names and ingredients lists altogether. Instead, each artist has been

invited to create artwork based upon what sensations and emotions the drinks invoked during blind taste tests. Head bartender Remy Savage and his team at Little Red Door are known for their innovative take on mixed drinks, and this latest offering is a fine example of the bar’s originality.

FOOD + DRINK



21

9

CUNARD INTRODUCES NEW DINING OPTIONSBritish luxury travel cruise line Cunard has announced new food and drink options for its liner Queen Mary 2. As part of the major refit that is taking place in June, Queen Mary 2 will launch new dining facilities and menus. “At Cunard, we pride ourselves in delivering a culinary experience that

continuously exceeds guest expectations and illustrates Cunard’s utmost attention to detail,” said Angus Struthers, Marketing Director, Cunard. “We are pleased to debut refreshed culinary offerings on Queen Mary 2 Remastered, which we have created to appeal to the most discerning guests while revitalising classic dishes and creating new ones.” Offerings include a Scandinavian Seafood Platter with Horseradish Cream, and Asparagus Specialties with Oeuf Mollet and Pink Grapefruit.

10

THE GORING TEAMS UP WITH HEPPLE GIN Launching in June, The Goring hotel’s private garden will play host to British spirits brand Hepple Gin. Created by TV chef and food writer Valentine Warner and his childhood friend Walter Riddell, the gin is made using an innovative three-part process. Speaking about the collaboration, Riddell remarked: “We are thrilled to be working

with The Goring because, like us, the hotel is a family business with an uncompromisingly independent spirit. There is no better spot in London for us to share a small corner of the Hepple estate so stylishly than The Goring Garden.” The one-off living bar and gin safari will run from June to September.

7

LA CITÉ DU VIN OPENS IN BORDEAUXDue to be officially opened on June 1 by French President François Hollande, La Cité du Vin is the ten-storey ode to wine located on the banks of the River Garonne. “Sydney has the Opera House, Paris the Eiffel Tower, but until now Bordeaux has lacked an iconic identity,” says Philippe Massol, director general of the Foundation

for Wine Culture and Civilisations. The interactive, multisensory space will host exhibitions, performances, conferences and wine-tasting workshops that showcase the region’s wine heritage. Three tasting laboratories will host workshops for both adults and younger visitors, to educate the public on the principles of wine. The €81-million project also features a 250-seat auditorium, three restaurants, a wine bar, boutique and shop.

6

EMPORIO ARMANI CAFFÈ OPENS IN AMMANThe Armani Group has opened its first Emporio Armani Caffè in Amman, Jordan. An open and elegant space on the second floor of the Taj Lifestyle Mall, the café covers 200-square metres. Metal tabletops, pearl gold leathers, and red Armani/Casa Diogene lamps complete the sophisticated look. As for

the menu, Armani Group’s Coporate Chef in Milan has created a selection of dishes in keeping with Italian flavours and traditions. The new space also offers a dedicated corner in which to taste and buy the Armani/Dolci collection.

8

DUDDELL’S LAUNCHES KRUG TASTING MENU Duddell’s, the two Michelin-starred restaurant in Hong Kong, has announced the launch of a seven-course tasting menu created by head chef Siu Hin Chi. Until July 3rd, Duddell’s will pair Cantonese delicacies with different Krug champagnes. Dishes will include such local specialities as wild abalone with pork knuckle

and caviar matched with a glass of Krug, Grande Cuvee. Followed by a choice of sautéed lobster with crispy conpoy, or stuffed crab shell with black truffle with Krug 2003. Then, the fried pigeon with premium soy sauce is teamed with Krug Rose. Available for both lunch and dinner, the menu is priced at HK$1,280, or HK$2,880 per person with the Krug Champagne pairing.



22

5

CAFÉ ROYAL DEBUTS MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAMING PACKAGETo mark the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death, Café Royal hotel on London’s Regent Street is offering guests a Midsummer Night’s Dreaming package. Comprising a stay in the Tudor Suite (other room categories also available), food and

drink, and tickets for Henry V at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, the immersive experience is a unique tribute to the playwright. The Grade II listed Tudor Suite features an original Tudor fireplace. Package rates start from £3,750 per night in the Tudor Suite or £650 per night in a Deluxe Guestroom, including all taxes. Inclusions are based on two adults.

4

BELMOND LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS ADDS WELLBEING COURSES Set in Oxfordshire, The Raymond Blanc Cookery School at Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons has added new wellbeing courses to its schedule. A ‘Taste of Wellbeing’ is a three-hour intensive course that aids in restoring balance to the body and mind.

The half-day commences with a nutritious smoothie and an hour-long session of therapeutic yoga. Then, guests make their way to the Raymond Blanc Cookery School, where Head Tutor Mark Peregrine and nutritionist Natalia Traxel will share their top food tips. There will be other Taste of Wellbeing courses throughout the year, including themes such as ‘500 Calories in One Day’, ‘Anti Allergies’, ‘Skin and Beauty’ and a ‘Gluten Free’ course. Sessions without yoga are also available.

3

THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL INVESTS IN REFURBISHMENTThe Gleneagles Hotel’s new owner Ennismore has announced a multi-million pound refurbishment plan. “The Gleneagles Hotel is an incredible property and beloved brand,” said Ennismore founder and CEO, Sharan Pasricha. “It is known the world over for its golf, but with 850 acres of beautiful Scottish

countryside, there is the potential to do so much more with the hotel.” The much-loved hotel will be working with some of the country’s most distinguished designers, including David Collins Studio, Timorous Beasties, Macaulay Sinclair and Goddard Littlefair. Gleneagles’ will continue to provide 5-star service throughout the improvements, and plans are in place to keep disruption as minimal as possible. The hotel will remain open throughout.

1

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DUBAI INTERNATIONAL FINANCIAL CENTRE OPENS In a deliberate deviation with Dubai’s obsession with superlatives, the new Four Seasons Hotel DIFC is neither the biggest nor the tallest. The eight-storey building has only 106 guest accommodations, which lends it an intimate atmosphere. As well as the many innovations

that guests have come to expect from hotels around the world, the Four Seasons DIFC goes above and beyond. “We have special relationships with retailers such as Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols, and we can even arrange for in-room tailoring by Tom James,” says Chef Concierge Peter Wharmby. “Those looking to augment their art collections can access the services of the Lawrie Shabibi gallery’s team, which can set up private viewings, advise on purchases and arrange safe transport home.”

2

THE MANDALAY ESTATE OPENS ITS DOORS For the first time, The Mandalay Estate on the Caribbean island of Mustique is available for hire. Built in 1989 for David Bowie, in collaboration with renowned architects Arne Hasslqvist and Robert Litwiller, the stunning hilltop estate is one of the island’s most iconic properties. A blend of Balinese style with

contemporary elements, the unique 7-bedroom estate contains all of the original fixtures, furniture and styling from Bowie’s ownership. Situated on 6.2 acres, the west-facing property is ideal for enjoying the island’s spectacular sunsets and stunning beaches. A team of 14 staff is on hand to look after guests and ensure a memorable stay.

HOSPITALITY



23

The evolution of many creative

industries has demonstrated

how quickly hardware can

become commoditised with

the value subsequently shifting

from hardware to software.

For example, think about the

evolution of the Walkman – now

the money is in the iPod/iTunes

relationship as well as content

protection and quality software. It

is not in the hardware itself.

And that’s what’s happening

in the 3D industry – the software

that allows us to search for, curate

and use 3D content is rapidly

gaining value.

We are starting to see the

early stages of 3D printing in

luxury but more importantly, says

Seena Rejal, Founder CEO at 3D

Industries, 3D scanning (taking

a 3D image) is opening up and

it is this that will have a lasting

impact on business processes.

3D Industries deploys advanced

3D shape search technology

(searching by shape and geometry)

in order to organise, track and use

those 3D scans.

“The potential is similar

to what’s happened with

Instagram,” explains Rejal, “It

became what we all do with 2D

images and the next wave is

3D i.e. people scanning things

around them in 3D. Partly for

fun, and partly for actual use.”

THE NEXT GENERATION OF LUXURY DESIGNERS So far 3D has been the domain of

the pros – designers, modelers,

scientists and engineers - but

consumers themselves will soon

have a device in their hands that

will be able to scan images in 3D.

For instance Microsoft Kinect

lets people control an interface

using gesture and voice with

an infrared 3D camera add-on

for the Xbox 360 console; the

new Dell tablet comes with a 3D

camera for depth images; Apple

has brought out PrimeSense and

they’re releasing cameras that

indicate they’re moving further

in the direction of 3D scanning;

Amazon is playing around with

their Fire Phone so you’ll be able

to scan objects around

you and then order them

directly from Amazon; and HP

has recently launched what they

call ‘blended reality’ devices

(such as the all-in-one computer

and 3D scanner Sprout) using

RealSense technology.

HOW CAN LUXURY BRANDS USE THIS?The potential for luxury

organisations is not only in

the speed in which they can go

from concept to customer but

also in the ability to include the

customer in the design process,

satisfying the true luxury

consumer desire for the most

bespoke and personal products.

A new culture of

click and buy is clearly

beginning to take shape across

all markets but the ability to

scan things in your current

environment and link that

to a purchase or commission

is incredible. Imagine the

possibilities for luxury.

If Ikea already has a full

catalogue of 3D models that

you can play with digitally in

your home the impact of similar

technology employed by for

example Harvey Nichols,

Bang & Olufsen or B&B Italia

will be very powerful – in both

experiential and functional

elements of retail.

3D SEARCH WILL BE THE NEW INTERFACE BETWEEN THE SHOPPER AND THE RETAILER

Where the next generation

of 3D will really start to take off

is in the design of spare parts

and product maintenance.

“Imagine as a producer you’ve

designed a luxury product.

You’ve got all the designs in

3D so it wouldn’t be such an

extension to put those files

online,” explains Rejal. “When

a consumer needs something

replacing they search for the

part and you charge for access

to that file. They either have a

3D printer in their house or a

specialist service prints it

for them. “

One can pick up the part, or

get it delivered to you or to your

maintenance team, but instead

of it taking three weeks it takes a

couple of hours. For the supplier

it works too – no longer do they

have to warehouse these parts.

Luxury then becomes about

access to the best software and

machinery, in collaboration

with the best customer service

specialists, to deliver a superior

service. Specialised printing

hubs will create physical spaces

to connect the brand to online

sales and provide a real-time

experience - the combination of

a 3D print workshop, product

showroom and customer service

hub giving the luxury customer

the personal experience they

crave and creating rich new

routes for marketing.

About COIN ResearchCOIN Research work with luxury brands to uncover future audiences and nurture marketing, brand and product development. We help brands take advantage of cultural and market trends and changing drivers of consumer behaviour. Our work is global but our home is London (coin-research.com)

Next in the series: Coin Research

takes a look at wearables

C O I N R E S E A R C H

Examining bespoke products and 3D scanning

TAPPING NEW TECHNOLOGIES WILL HELP DEVELOP YOUR LUXURY BRAND AND PRODUCTSFOR A MODERN AUDIENCE. NOW, MORE THAN EVER, IS THE TIME TO PUT INNOVATION AT THE CORE OF YOUR COMPANY AND RECOGNISE THE POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS TO THE LUXURY BUSINESS Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook

Luxury futures


We continue our six-part series on putting tech innovation at the heart

of luxury with Coin Research

2424

Berlin houses 5.9m residents

across its metropolitan area,

and attracts 12m tourists a

year. The average purchasing

power is slightly below the

national average, but remains

significantly higher than found

in most other European cities.

Berlin has several strong

distinct areas of pitch across the

city centre, as well as thriving

district centres and freestanding

malls. Malls are popular, with

over 60 separate locations

available, as well as large-scale

department stores that have

floorspaces comparable to

shopping centres - most notably

the luxury 60,000 sqm KaDeWe

on Tauentzienstrasse.

The most significant recent

mall opening was the Mall of

Berlin: located centrally on the

site of the Wertheim department

store on Leipziger Strasse,

it houses c.270 units across

76,000 sqm. It was developed

by HGHI Holding GmbH and

opened in September 2014,

with an extension planned for

an additional 50 units, taking

it to 135,000 sqm by 2017. The

fashion offer is primarily mid-

market, although Karl Lagerfeld,

7 For All Mankind, Gant, Hugo

Boss and Tommy Hilfiger have

all taken stores in addition to

their high street units. HGHI

Holding GmbH also plan to open

the Mall of Ku’Damm in 2019;

at 80,000 sqm and containing

230 units, it will incorporate

On Fifth Avenue, Ermenegildo

Zegna to open a mega store

in the Crown Building at

730 Fifth Avenue on 57 Street

adjacent to Bulgari.

Madison Avenue is playing

musical chairs. Swiss Moynat

opened its 937 Madison Avenue

next door to Met Breuer, and the

store itself looks like a domed

trunk. Leather goods retailer

Bally is moving from 650 to

687 Madison Avenue directly

across from Hermes. Georg

Jensen, featuring products that

range from jewellery to home

products, 698 Madison Avenue.

Lacoste at 575 Madison Avenue is

temporarily closed for renovation

and will unveil an exciting new

store design any day. De Beers

Diamond Jewelers leaving the

corner of Fifth Avenue and

55th Street and relocating to

716 Madison Avenue.

In Midtown, Maserati

of Manhattan is moving to

639 11th Avenue, on the corner

of West 47th Street.

In NoMad, Todd Snyder’s first

U.S. flagship store will open at

23 East 26th Street across the

street from Madison Square Park.

In SoHo, John Hardy luxury

jewellery from Bali will open its

first US Boutique at 118 Prince

Street, an entire building over

three floors. Frame Denim to

51 Greene Street between Grand

and Broome Streets. Canada

Goose landing at 101 Wooster

Street. Spanish fashion chain

Zara opened its ninth city

location, 503 Broadway and

features “smart” dressing rooms

with touchscreens for store-

associate help and sizing and

availability information.

In Noho, Lululemon Lab

50 Bond Street between The

Bowery & Lafayette Street has

debuted. Italian clothing label

Boglioli will have a first US store

at 10 Bond Street.

NEW YORK NEWS: Underground

shopping comes upscale, retailers

realize the commuter shopper is an

untapped demographic. TURNSTYLE

Under Columbus Circle is the newest

sub terrain shopping mecca; enter on

any corner of 57th and 58th Street and

8th Avenue. Serving daily commuters,

residents and tourists. Projections

include “22 million people, 24 shops

and 10 restaurants.”

Happy Shopping!

EUROPE NEW YORK

Jonathan de Mello, Harper Dennis HobbsTel: +44 (0) 207 462 8703E: [email protected]

the existing Karstadt on

Kurfürstendamm.

Kurfürstendamm and

Tauentzienstrasse are the

principle shopping boulevards

in the west of the city centre –

the latter attains the highest

rents at over N3,500/sqm per

annum, but Ku’damm contains

the majority of luxury brands.

In 2015 Salvatore Ferragamo

opened a 270 sqm store close

to Gucci and Bvlgari, whilst

Versace opened a 350 sqm

unit next door. Superdry will

open one of its largest stores in

Europe in Spring 2017, at 3,000

sqm across two floors, taking

over from the previous tenant,

Gerry Weber.

Friedrichstrasse provides an

additional luxury destination

15 minutes east of Ku’damm.

Anchored by Galeries Lafayette,

many brands have a second unit

there, with Karl Lagerfeld having

opened an additional 350 sqm

store in 2015. Although rents for

Friedrichstrasse have stagnated

recently at around N2,000/sqm/

year, retail demand continues to

increase across Berlin.

Faith Hope Consolo, Chairperson of the Retail Group Douglas Elliman Real EstateTel: 001 212 418 2000E: [email protected]

Berlin houses 5.9m residents across its metropolitan area, and attracts 12m tourists a year

Retail property


25

“One man’s misfortune is

another man’s gain”. On ‘Bond

Street the last two leasing

transactions have not included

any key money premiums (KMP).

This is unprecedented in over 20

years, assuming LVMH acquires

14 New Bond Street following

Nirav Modi’s (jewels from Jaipur)

acquisition of 31 Old Bond Street.

Others who have aspirations

of securing a multi-million

pound premium may reflect

upon whether they should have

engaged with unsolicited offers

this time last year.

In Mount Street, KMP’s have

dropped from over £2M (paid

by Simone Rocha to secure

93 Mount Street) to around

£500,000; allegedly the sum

Grosvenor is paying Speelman

to facilitate the letting of 129

Mount Street to Valextra.

Gismondi ( No 14) is holding

out for the same figure in

Albemarle Street, which may

be slightly optimistic given the

number of leases on the market

in Albemarle Street and nearby

Dover Street; 17 at the last count.

In addition, there are at least

7 maison buildings available

within the area. Many market

commentators have noted the

“Dover Street Market effect”

with the iconic brand relocating

to Haymarket possibly costing

the original home of the brand

(and Lord Sugar, the owner of

17/18 Dover Street) dearly.

The renaissance of Dover Street

will no doubt be triggered by the

opening of the new restaurant

at 10/12 Dover Street (formerly

Dover Street Wine Bar and

Pescatori Restaurant) and O&H’s

initiatives in leasing 7/10 Grafton

Street adjacent the former Hong

Kong Consulate (also available).

Heading South West; in

Brompton Cross the identity of

the brand securing 122 Draycott

Avenue and a number of

buildings in Walton Street is

now (almost) market knowledge.

The collateral benefits to the

area will be significant with

a number of associated

transactions likely to happen

in relatively quick succession.

Sloane Street welcomes Red

Valentino in the block 131/133

Sloane Street and Cadogan

Estate have also entered the

“maison market” in launching

opportunities in Cadogan

Gardens. 1 Cadogan Place

(5,853 sq ft) will be the new

home of Hermes and there is

more than one market rumour

suggesting that Versace will

secure the existing Hermes store

on Sloane Street.

25


LONDON

Keith Wilson, Wilson MchardyTel: +44 (0) 207 439 1666E: [email protected]

The maison building remains a

unique proposition for retailers

and indeed a challenge. Of the

12 buildings available in this

category across Mayfair, Maiyet

have now secured 40 Conduit

Street (formerly the restaurant

to the Westbury Hotel) in favour

of 6 Grafton Street. Some of the

best examples include 37 Dover

Street (Mallett), 7A Grafton Street

(formerly Sprueth Magers),

41/42 Dover Street next door

to the Arts Club and a couple

of buildings in Clifford Street

discreetly on the market. Maiyet

are certainly convinced on the

concept having paid a rent with

“a 3 in front of it” for 36,000 sq ft

to provide a multiple of uses from

a restaurant, club and store for

the ethical brand.

Some leasing advisors are

viewing the market as “fragile”

as we approach the 23rd June,

the larger groups are certainly

adopting a wait and see strategy

linked to acquisitions which must

provide “a compelling reason” to

progress but the more optimistic,

opportunistic brands may find

excellent leasing possibilities at

relatively modest prices relative

to the last two or three years of

leasing activity.

Many market commentators have noted the “Dover Street Market effect” with the iconic brand relocating to Haymarket

5

BURBERRY UNVEILS NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MENBritish fashion powerhouse Burberry has launched a new male fragrance. Named Mr. Burberry, the scent has been created in partnership with Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer Christopher Bailey and perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. The herbal eau de toilette fuses

classic and contemporary ingredients such as zesty grapefruit, warm vetiver, and guaiac wood. As for the packaging, the bottle references the brand’s black trench coat and its iconic details with a hand-tied knot in English-woven black gabardine around the neck, celebrating the innovative fabric crafted by Thomas Burberry over a century ago. Customers can customise their Mr. Burberry bottle with up to three initials through a monogramming service available on Burberry.com and selected stores.

3

BALMAIN RELEASES NEW FRAGRANCE French luxury fashion house Balmain has launched a new limited edition version of its signature perfume, Extatic. The eau de parfum pays tribute to the tiger orchid flower with opening notes of spicy ginger flower, before the highlights of two velvety flowers – night jasmine and ylang-ylang – kick in. A rich, feminine

scent, the fragrance then goes on to reveal woody base notes of patchouli, cashmeran and benzoin. Housed in a completely redesigned black and gold striped bottle, Extatic Tiger Orchid will be sold exclusively in Harrods.

4

ETRO LAUNCHES PERFUME EXCLUSIVELY IN LIBERTYShantung is the new fragrance from Etro for spring 2016. Inspired by “wild silk and the nomadic tribes of an orient without time”, the scent is fresh, sweet, and fruity with hints of lychee. Italian mandarin blends with blackcurrant, rose, and peony, before giving way to woody notes of cedar, cashmere

and a sensuous finale of musk. As for the name, Shantung refers to a type of silk fabric historically from the province of Shandong. The unisex perfume comes in a pale white glass bottle, etched with Etro’s signature paisley motifs. It is sold exclusively in Liberty, for £118 per 100ml.

26

1

BYREDO EXPANDS HAIR PERFUME COLLECTIONByredo launched their original hair perfume collection in 2015. The range, which until now comprised a trio of scents (Gypsy Water, Bal d’Afrique and Blanche), uses a silicone and polymer formula to create a lightweight and non-sticky spray. From April, the fragrance house added four new scents

to their hair perfume line: La Tulipe, Mojave Ghost, Flowerhead and Black Saffron. As the name suggests, La Tulipe is a floral concoction with highlights of rhubarb, freesia and vetiver. Meanwhile, Mojave Ghost balances delicate violet with lingering sandalwood to create a scent that’s a fresher spin on musk. Flowerhead is inspired by traditional Indian weddings, and Black Saffron is a fitting tribute to the spice with hints of rich leather.

2

VICTORIA BECKHAM PARTNERS WITH ESTÉE LAUDEREstée Lauder and Victoria Beckham have announced plans to launch a limited edition make-up collection. Set to go on sale this September, the range will be available at select retailers and Victoria Beckham stores. “The whole process has been both inspiring and eye opening – from going back and revisiting the Estée

Lauder archives through to working on the product with the Estée team, this feels like the perfect make-up partnership for me and my brand,” says Victoria Beckham. “I had long admired Estée Lauder the woman, and the powerful brand that she created, so I am excited to offer both of our customers this makeup range and play a small part in her vision for women.”

BEAUTY + WELLBEING



27

6

NEW FRENCH SKINCARE BRAND GALLINÉE LAUNCHESThe brainchild of two French ex-pat friends living in London, Gallinée is a new innovative line of skincare products. Marie Drago, a Doctor in Pharmacy, brings over 15 years’ worth of experience, while Anaïs Lombard Showcasing a patented prebiotic, probiotic, and lactic acid complex, the brand

is the first of its kind to prioritise the skin’s microbiome – that is, our body’s own protective ecosystem. Using the latest microbiological research, Gallinée’s range spans creams, cleansers, facemasks and scrubs. The name Gallinée was derived from the patois word for ‘hen’, which in turn inspired the little egg logo of the brand.


9

REVAMPED GAZELLI HOUSE SPA IN CHELSEARedesigned in collaboration with Melt Design Hub and Lázaro Rosa-Violán Studio, Gazelli House is the ‘anti-spa’ located on London’s Walton Street. Spread over three floors, the house comprises basement ‘guest rooms’ as opposed to therapy rooms, a ground floor retail area, and a Sky Parlour on the first floor

with arching skylights. Speaking about redesign, Melt Design Hub revealed, “The stair was always going to be a focal point as it links the guest journey through the House. We’ve created a piece of sculpture made from folded bronze plate, it’s almost ribbon-like floating through the space, and a beguiling mix of the modern and traditional” Providing a full wellbeing solution, Gazelli House offers bespoke treatments and holds regular events.

10

YSL BEAUTÉ UNLEASHES COLOURED MASCARASAfter four years of research, YSL Beauté has finally released their patent pending vinyl mascara. Available in nine bright colours, the formula allows for a higher level of lacquer pigments than was previously possible using traditional methods. This means that the colours applied to the eyelashes

as pure and shiny as they are in the tubes. “YSL Beauté captures the rebellious spirit and cool caprice of today’s multi-hued woman, empowering her search for constant re-invention,” said Lloyd Simmonds, Creative Director Makeup YSL Beauté. Infused with four natural oils – argan, carthame, sweet almond, and castor oil – the mascara nourishes and protects the lashes. Brand ambassador Cara Delevingne fronts the accompanying campaign.

7

COMME DES GARÇONS PARFUM COLLABORATES WITH GRACE CODDINGTONGrace Coddington has partnered with Comme des Garcons Parfum to create her first fragrance: Grace by Grace Coddington. Comme des Garcons Parfum Creative Director Christian Astuguevieille has channeled Coddington’s lifelong love of roses and

cats to develop a perfume that is as quirky as it is charming. Available in 50ml and 100ml sizes, the perfume bottles showcase Coddington’s original drawings and is in the shape of a cat. “Over time, I’ve experimented with everyone else’s version of rose, and even got sidetracked by some others along the way. Now I’ve arrived back at the point I first started, with rose. Except this time, it’s my rose,” said the former Creative Director of American Vogue, Grace Coddington.

8

DYSON LAUNCHES FIRST HAIR DRYER Dyson, the British technology company best known for their vacuum cleaners, hand dryers and bladeless fans, has entered the world of personal grooming. Having invested £50 million into its development, the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer is powered by Dyson’s smallest, lightest and most advanced digital

motor. Using a fast but focused airflow, the device is both quieter than other hair dryers, and protects the hair from heat damage. With four heat settings, three airflow settings, and a cold shot option, the Dyson Supersonic allows the user to dry and style hair at the same time. The machine is priced at £299 and comes with a 2-year guarantee.


28

L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

GLOBETROTTERAS ONE OF THE ONLY REMAINING TRADITIONAL GLOBEMAKERS, BELLERBY & CO’S HANDMADE CREATIONS

EVOKE A RARE ROMANTICISM IN THE AGE OF GPS. THERESA HAROLD VISITS THEIR NORTH LONDON STUDIOS, TO MEET THE MAN WITH THE WORLD IN HIS HANDS: PETER BELLERBY


29

On paper, it shouldn’t

work. A small team

selling bespoke globes,

painstakingly handmade in

London and with the price tag to

match? Yet, that is the successful

business of Bellerby & Co.

It all started when Peter

Bellerby got the idea to buy a

beautiful globe for his father’s

80th birthday. He discovered that

the market was limited to either

plasticky orbs of inaccuracy, or

exquisite antiques that were too

fragile for everyday handling.

So he decided to make his own.

Well, two, to be exact – one for

his father and one for himself.

Nearly a decade later and Bellerby

is making globes for Hollywood

films, celebrity homes, and even

the Louvre Museum.

But the journey from

that initial decision to his

current success was far from

straightforward. The technical

challenges involved in placing a

map on a sphere – overlapping

gores or wonky latitude lines, to

name but a few – were plentiful

and unforeseen. “I had about four

or five eureka moments during

this process, which obviously I

can’t talk about,” says Bellerby.

In fact, so reluctant is he to

divulge his globemaking secrets

that he has chosen not to apply

for patents or copyrights for

fear of giving away his methods.

Such concern is understandable,

given the fact that his

breakthroughs were the result

of dedicating two years to full-

time, unpaid, experiments.

Stepping into his studio

in Stoke Newington, the

atmosphere is serene and –


30


Previous page (Left to right): The 80cm Diameter Galileo; Shading the coastline on an 80cm globe, photo by Tom Bunning

This page (Top to bottom): Jon, photo by Stuart Freedman; Gores (pieces of the map), photo by Stuart Freedman; The head painters notebook, photo by Stuart Freedman

Opposite page (Left to right): Peter Bellerby by Ana Santl; Jon making a 36cm Livingstone Desk Globe - laying gores, photo by Ana Santl


You have to measure and re-measure constantly, to make sure you’re on schedule. You can’t just

breeze in and start laying down bits of map. It just doesn’t work

31

were it not for the shiny Mac

and state-of-the-art Epson printer

– reassuringly timeless. Strips of

paper are pegged to dry above

artisans wielding paintbrushes

or a compass.

“We pretty much do everything

here, [apart from] the fabrication

of the spheres. The whole thing

starts with the cartography.

We have a main base map,

but it changes between a

23 cm globe and a 127cm globe,

which is dramatically more

detailed.” Bellerby continues

his tour, explaining the process

with a quiet pride and an easy

familiarity with his team that

comes from working side-by-side

for hours at a time in utmost

concentration (“Even if the

radio is on, when you’re making

the globes, you don’t hear

the music.”).

He leads me past the printer,

with its inks that boast a

lifespan of up to 200 years,

towards the painters. “Once

we’ve printed, we have the

gore which are triangular

shapes. Some of them have

shading added on beforehand

but on the whole, most of

them just come out black and

white. We then add the ocean

colouring, which is in four or

five different washes. It takes

about to day to apply, let it dry,

apply, and let it dry. All the

colouring of the oceans and the

continents, that’s done by hand.

It takes about a week just for

the shading.”

Watching the artisans at

work, it strikes me as a unique

blend of both the mathematical

and the artistic. “You do have

to be really methodical about

it,” says Bellerby. “You have

to measure and re-measure

constantly, to make sure you’re

on schedule. You can’t just breeze

in and start laying down bits of

map. It just doesn’t work.”

Is it more meditative than

stressful? “A bit of both,” laughs

Bellerby. “You can damage one

particular gore right at the

end, so we then have to take

that off and put another one

on. Sometimes that works,

sometimes it doesn’t. The thing

that’s really difficult with this

is colour matching. [When] one

of these panels tear, you need

another one made in exactly the

same colour palette. And that’s

really difficult; I’m useless at

that. You have to apply it wet,

and when you wet a panel it

looks darker than it would do

anyway. So you have to know

how much to put on.” He pauses

and nods towards a young

woman painting a globe. “Isis is

really good at it.”

A fashion college graduate,

Isis has been with the company

for nearly three years. Next to

her, an art college graduate

named Alex is turning the ocean

blue. Meanwhile Jon, the Head

of Production, is applying strips

of map to a globe (goring) – a

skill for which it takes nine

months to train. He has been

with Bellerby over four years,

and is one of four globemakers

on the team. One of the greatest

challenges for Bellerby is

finding the right people for

such a specialised job. This

year, the company will produce

around 500 globes, and that

requires hiring and training

more staff. It’s a significant

investment of both time and

resources on Bellerby’s part.

However, he chooses not to go

down the route of government

apprenticeships, preferring to

avoid that level of bureaucracy.

Which, for someone that

confesses to a low boredom

threshold, makes sense.

Before launching his artisan

business in 2008, Bellerby

founded and managed


32

pounds. We seem to have lost

a lot of manufacturing in the

UK, decades ago, and finding

foundries is difficult.”

Indeed at times, it does seem

as if Bellerby is on a mission to

bring back the lost skills of the

past. Whether that is the hard-

earned secrets of how to gore

a globe, or the craftsmanship

needed to join together pieces

of wood at competing tensions.

All of which begs the questions:

What is the purpose of a globe

nowadays? “Inspiration,”

replies Bellerby, with a smile.

“Google Maps is great, and I

use it every day, but it is purely

functional. It gets you from A to

B. But a globe…it inspires you to

go there.”

bellerbyandco.com


Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes.

Prior to that, it was a career

selling television rights to

different countries. Although he

studied art at O-Level and hails

from a family of art teachers,

Bellerby admits that he had

never considered art as a viable

career option.

Happily for the art world –

and indeed, the world of luxury

in general – Bellerby was able

to make it work. Today, his

creations can be seen in cultural

institutions such as the Royal

Opera House, iconic stores like

Harrods, and in private homes.

His clientele ranges from

“students, up to people with

their own Wikipedia pages.”

Alongside the core collection

of globes with such evocative

names as The Britannia, The

Galileo, and The Livingstone,

Bellerby & Co also creates

personalised globes. “We do a lot

of bespoke work. When people

commission a globe, they will

This page (Above and below): A 23cm Mini Desk Globe in progress, photo by Ana Satl; Isis, painter, glossing a 36cm livingstone desk globe, photo by Tom Bunning

add on place names. So if you

come from a little village in

Leicestershire, you can add it on.

There are no real rules in globe

cartography. Obviously, we stick

with everything politically as

is defined by the UN, but we go

a bit further than that because

they don’t recognise some

states…which is sad.”

What level of customisation

is available? “You can add

illustrations. A lot of people

like to add a little illustration to

where they’ve been on holiday:

for instance, a balloon over

Burma, or a sailing dhow in

Hong Kong harbor. You can

even add a coat of arms to the

meridians, which are all cast

in a foundry in Derbyshire.”

He spins the solid brass circle

around on the worktop to show

me the engraved crest. “This

one piece cost several thousand


We do a lot of bespoke work. When people commission a globe, they will add on place names. So if you come from a little village in Leicestershire, you can add it on

33

The year began with turmoil in

the global stock markets, which

could have implications for the

purchasing decisions of the ultra

wealthy. “The reality is that the

volatility and gyrations in the

equity market may not have a

tremendous impact on the ultra

wealthy’s pocket books, but it does

impact them psychologically and

emotionally,” Wealth-X President

David Friedman said. “If you think

about luxury as a category that

is driven by passions, interests

and emotions, while the market

volatility is going to affect how

much money they have to spend,

the emotional and psychological

aspects are the predominant

factors in driving what they’re

going to do.”

First- and second-generation

ultra wealthy individuals have

different reactions to loss of

wealth. “The first generation

believes they can make it back,”

Wealth-X CEO Mykolas Rambus

said. “The second generation gets

extremely concerned about what

real or paper loss does to the

lifestyle they’ve been accustomed

to since birth. It’s like pulling out

the rug from under them.”

Winners and losers in luxury

“On the spending side, all

indications are that spending

may be somewhat constrained

(by world stock market losses),

but there are winners and losers,”

Rambus said. “There are brands

that are doing well, based around

how and where they are pursuing

their customers. To say that

Chinese business is drying up is a

falsity when looking at some of the

numbers out of the UK right now.”

There will be a transition in

where spending is happening,

rather than a fundamental

difference in spending. “We

are not going to see a massive

correction in luxury spending

per se,” Rambus said. “Certain

categories may be challenged, but

that is related to the products and

services themselves.”

Luxury firms should carefully

consider their expansion

strategies. “Luxury isn’t really

luxury when it’s sold everywhere

to everyone; it loses exclusivity,

and in turn its entwinement

with selectiveness,” Winston

Chesterfield, Wealth-X Research

Director, told CNBC. “When

luxury is exclusive, and better yet,

recognizably exclusive, it reaches

its greatest desirability.”

Brands should tailor their

goods — in both design and

purpose — to each region they aim

to attract. Understanding different

natural and social environments

will help prestige brands retain

their aura of luxury with ultra

wealthy consumers.

Luxury as investment

During periods of economic

uncertainty, many wealthy

individuals in emerging markets

seek tangible investments such

as paintings (particularly the

contemporary, modern and

impressionist genres), which

will appreciate in value, as

opposed to luxury clothing

and leather accessories.

The ultra wealthy in the Pacific

region have the highest propensity

to own luxury assets, according

to the recently released Wealth-X

Luxury Spending Index.

The index, as cited in the

Knight Frank Wealth Report,

is based on the proportion of

ultra high net worth (UHNW)

individuals from each of the

principal geographic regions who

own at least one of the following

luxury assets: yachts, private jets,

collectables (fine wine, antiques,

art, jewellery and watches) and

luxury automobiles worth more

than US$100,000. The Luxury

Spending Index, which is equally

weighted across the four asset

classes, compares the likelihood

of a UHNW individual from a

particular region owning a luxury

asset against the global average.

Although wealth in Africa

is extremely concentrated

in certain countries, there is

growing potential for luxury

brands, including high-end

auto marques. Despite ongoing

difficult economic conditions

in many emerging markets, the

appetite of wealthy collectors

has not diminished. UHNW

individuals in Africa also show

a stronger propensity for private

jet ownership, at 2.0 times the

global average....

About Wealth-XWealth-X is the global authority on wealth intelligence, providing sales, marketing, strategy and compliance solutions to clients in the financial services, luxury, not-for-profit and education sectors. Its award-winning research and thought leadership are regularly cited by the world’s media such as CNBC, Financial Times, Thomson Reuters and BBC. Wealth-X has more than 250 staff in ten locations, including Singapore, London

and New York.

Wealth-X

Motivations and behaviours of the LUXURY CONSUMER

FIRST- AND SECOND-GENERATION ULTRA WEALTHY INDIVIDUALS HAVE DIFFERENT REACTIONS TO LOSS OF WEALTH

Wealth report


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There are many compelling

arguments about the birthplace

of luxury, every early civilisation

and every continent can stake a

claim. The hierarchy of needs and

something innate in our human

psyche drives us to define, create

and honour the most refined

expressions of craft.

Whatever your view on this

subject it is undeniable that

today the home of luxury is most

definitely Europe. Europe is HQ to

the worlds greatest luxury brands,

Europe educates the worlds most

inspired creative talents and

here in Europe we champion

and celebrate the refined art of

craftmanship in all its forms. It is

not only the current state of the

business of luxury which makes

its home here, it is also a spirit,

a history, an attitude which is

harder to pinpoint. It is buried

deep in the architecture, present

in our small artisanal businesses,

felt in the rich landscape and

present in the most innocuous

customs and behaviours.

In Europe we live with luxury,

it’s impact is hard to escape.

This vision of luxury is agnostic,

it’s sometimes unexpected,

it embraces decay as well as

perfection, it is cosmopolitan,

it enjoys freedom of expression

and it can be enjoyed with or

without material wealth. It is

a shared sense of perspective, a

shared appreciation of the rare

and refined and a shared desire to

find a perspective elevated from

the operational issues of daily life,

legislation, politics and economy.

For luxury consumers, many

of whom travel to Europe to

immerse themselves in this world,

our borders are irrelevant, they

sense a continuity of sensibility

from Bond Street to Berlin, from

Dover Street to the Duomo. They

recognise the identities of our

cities, the creative, irreverence

of London, the timeless chic of

Paris, the bella figura of Rome but

they also feel the connections,

the similarities the themes which

transcend national borders.

Outside of Europe, ‘Europe’

is a by-word for sophistication.

To visit or want to visit ‘Europe’

is to display a sensitivity,

intelligence and ambition which

itself is defined as cosmopolitan,

enlightened and refined. The

Grand Tour has been re-invented

for the instagram generation and

it is as influential as it’s ever been.

Whether you’re a fan of fashion,

design, art, architecture, history,

food or wine it’s hard to identify

any other location in the world

with an offering as rich as ours.

At the moment I am reading John

Hoopers ‘The Italians’, he notes

that Italian has thirteen words

for a coat hanger but none for a

hangover. There are some things

that cannot be explained or

legislated for, as all the best things

in life, Luxury defies rule making.

In this context the current

debate about Europe takes on a

different significance, or perhaps

insignificance, after all whatever

the outcome of the referendum we

will still be part of Europe in spirit

and long may that last.

constructlondon.com

Georgia Fendley

Georgia Fendley is CEO of Hill and Friends, Founder of Construct and NED of Cambridge Satchel Company


Brand matters

Luxury is a love letter to Europe

35

What is your current favourite shop?I love shopping at 202, and also Wolf and Badger, where it’s great to discover and support the new designers in the fashion world. I also love all of the beautiful boutiques in Connaught Village, which are perfect if you are looking for something unique and special. …restaurant? My husband and I love Scotts and Kai, but if I had to pick one, La Petite Masion. The food is exquisite and I’m transported to the Mediterranean the moment I walk in. ... fragrance? Chanel 1932, always. Where have you received the best customer service?The Bulgari Hotel has exceptional customer service. I love visiting their exquisite spa, where the staff are so friendly and welcoming. Who or what has been your biggest influence?One of my biggest influences has to be my Uncle Jimmy [Choo] and my Grandma. They taught me such important values about life, how to believe in yourself and follow your heart. Is beauty or function more important?Both. My shoe philosophy is rooted in the 3 Cs: comfort, character, and craftsmanship. When it comes to shoes, the combination of beauty and functionality is so important. What do you do to relax?A trip to Richard Ward for a quick haircut, and I love heading to Urban Retreat in Harrods for a mani and pedi. I’m very lucky to have a one-to-one yoga session once a week, and also amazing reflexology by Jess Appleby who comes to my home.

Where would your ideal holiday be?Dati, because it is so beautiful and remote…No signal! What is your ideal watch?I’ve been wearing Cartier watches since I was 18. I tend to wear statement pieces – always with diamonds.

And your ideal car?A little secret for you – I can’t drive!

Which luxury company has the best ads?I love Jo Malone’s look and feel, it has such style and elegance.

Do you collect anything or would you like to?Shoes and more shoes…! I also love collecting Smythson’s diaries. Every year I have to have a different colour.

What items are you currently dreaming of buying?I have just given birth to my second son so I am now obsessed with buying gorgeous little things for him.

Q& A

Lucy Choi

Founder of Lucy Choi London


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