TRADITIONAL MACEDONIAN COSTUMES

The traditional folk costumes embrace traits of the various cultures represented in this part of

the Balkan. They convey the skill and inventiveness of native designers - Macedonian

women, who manufactured themselves their outfits of homespun thread (usually wool, linen,

cotton, hemp), using traditional tools.

Until the early decades of the 20th century, when folk costumes reached their peak and were

still widely worn and adorned, there were over 70 different kinds of richly decorated costumes

on the territory of Macedonia. Every region had its distinctive attire, which differed from the

clothing of the adjacent region in its stylistic, aesthetic and functional features. The reason for

the appearance of so many different costumes, particularly for women, is the geographic

isolation of the ethic areas, as well as frequent migrations and ethnic diversity of the

population.

The features that make traditional costumes magnificent are the embroidery (in rich geometric

and geometricized floral patterns), appliqués, woven ornaments, adornment with fringes, fine

metal thread - srma, and braids, as well as jewelry, made of metal, beads and fruits of the

nature.

Two main types of costumes western Macedonian and eastern Macedonian. The western

Macedonian type includes the Upper Vardar Valley, the Debar-Miyak and Brsyak

ethnographic areas.

Traditional costumes in these parts of Macedonia are

characterized by the numerous pieces of clothing, made

mostly of white klashna, as well as the various headdresses

and rich prevailing red colors.

The versatile application of numerous old embroidery

techniques (in woolen, silk or metal thread), the

embellishment with braids, filigree ornaments and numerous

pieces with beads and precious jewelry, made mostly of metal, give an extraordinary structure

and visual effect.

The eastern Macedonia type includes: the Middle Vardar Valley, and the Shop ethnographic

area.

The costumes from these regions are generally lighter and

rather plain, without massive jewelry, exquisite decoration

and lively colors. Red is the prevalent color, and other

decoration includes variegated cords, braids, bands and

srma.1

1 All content is © macedoniadirect unless otherwise stated.

Skopska Blatija

bride,

turn of the 20th century

Crnetica (long dress), Saja (upper garment with rudimentary sleeves), Pojas (sash, not visible), Praena vuta (apron), Uzkuknici & Krpčinja so pari (scarves with a decorative and apotropaic function), Kjurdija (sleeveless coat made of klašna), Fes (shallow hat trimmed with coins, not visible), Krpa (headscarf) held in place with a Remen (a band trimmed with coins), Pafti, (buckle),

Ledenik, Pirišan, Piskuli Krst (Jewellery)

Sela pod Suva Gora

young bride,

turn of the 20th century

Venčajnca (bridal dress) with a stomacher underneath (not visible);

Elek (bodice); Saja r’kae (a sleeveless top made of cotton or hemp); Pojas (sash, not visible); Skutina (apron); Šamii (scarves); Čapragje (small buckle); Monistren kjustek (plaited strings ornamented with beads); Gornik (bridal coat made of white klašna); Kolan (silver belt); Sokaj (long head cover) attached to a Glaina so pobranik (strap, not visible); Čevre (white cotton scarf embroidered with silk and silver threads), held in place by a Topka igla (silver hair pin). The hair is plaited and interwoven with a Prcle (bunch of tiny plaits of hair); Šutarki (leggings, not visible); Kalčini golemi sitni (socks); Opinci (sandals)

Gorna Reka

young bride,

turn of the 20th century

Košula so kindoi (pleated bridal dress), over which is a Mintan (waist-length garment of thin felt, not visible) and a Džamadan (sleeveless undergarment, not visible);

Dolama (embroidered jacket); Skender pojas (woollen sash, not visible); Poš (silk sash); Kolan so pari (belt with coins); Gerdan (jewellery worn across the bust); Pešterka (apron); Šamija (scarf); Šamija (scarf); Fes so trepetulka (hat trimmed with gold coins, not visible); Tas (oval metal cap) upon which are attached Veški (cotton strips covered in coins); Marama (headscarf with small beads). Entwined in the hair are Kitki (tassels of cotton threads and beads); on the feet and legs are Tozluci, Čulki (not visible)

and Kalčini (socks)

Debarsko Pole

young bride,

turn of the 20th century

Košula so vezeni r’kai (bridal dress with embroidered sleeves), over which are a Pregrlak (front piece, not visible), Elek (bodice, not visible)

Zobanče (short-sleeved jacket); Dizgija (sash, not visible) Lepa bovča (apron) Kalemkjari za pred sebe (silk scarves) Pafti (large silver buckle) Džube so nafe (sleeveless felt coat lined with fox fur) Kapa (oval, shallow hat), covered with a Darpna klabodanlija (white cotton scarf embroidered with gold and other coloured threads)

Ohridsko Pole

young bride,

beginning of the 20th century

Golema košula (bridal dress), over which is a Elek (short-sleeved jacket) and Klašenik (waistcoat, not visible); Pomaniki (lower-arm sleeves); Grlinka and Grljuvče (front pieces, not visible); Pojas (sash, not

visible); Skutina so bufki ( apron); Pridulnici (woollen scarves); Struško šamivče (sash); Belo džube (white sleeveless felt coat); Mangura, Gerdan, Čaprag (jewellery worn across the chest); Igla Igla raskrstena, Ubetki (bridal jewellery worn on the head); Sokaj (long head cover), over which is Marama so vezba (white cotton scarf, finely embroidered with fringes); Alski čorabi so vetka (hand-knitted socks with floral motifs).

Gorna Prespa

young woman in festive costume,

beginning of the 20th century

Košula (dress) over which is a Grlinka (a small front piece); Mintani (lower arm sleeves); Šegun (short sleeved top garment made of klašna); Eleče (short bodice); Pojas (sash, not visible); Pretcemnik (silk apron); Pafti (large silver buckle); Džube (sleeveless coat made of felt and trimmed with fur). The hair is plaited in Kocak (plaits) and the head is covered with a Čkepe (silk scarf)

Gorni Bitolski sela

young woman

dressed for a festive occasion,

turn of the 20th century

Košula alska (dress); Alski šaak (bodice made of klašna); Pojas (sash); Alska futa (apron); Pafti kubelii (large silver buckle) and Skopec (strings of coins); Darkma (white cotton scarf embroidered in one corner with red silk threads called Gugan

Železnik, Kičevija

bride,

turn of the 20th century

Golema košula (bridal dress); Klašenik (sleeveless bodice, not visible); Pojas (sash, not visible)

Alen skutnik (apron) Skopec (strings of coins) Pafti (buckle) Golema kjurdija (sleeveless coat) Bečka šamija (woollen scarf). On her wedding day the bride covered her head with a Prevez (a red cotton cloth)

Radoviško Pole

young woman

dressed for a festive occasion,

beginning of the 20th century

Košula (dress) Ečel’k (silk shirt) Saja (white short-sleeved outer garment); Pojas (sash, not visible). On special occasions Skutač - dipla alova (two aprons, one of which is folded and tucked into the sash) Eleče (short bodice), decorated with Gorni i dolni kopčijna (two pieces of silver jewellery worn on the bust); The head is covered

with Šam (white cotton headscarf)

Bojmija

young bride,

beginning of the 20th century

Gašti (long breeches); Košula (dress, not visible); Dulamka (waist-length garment, not visible);

Anterija (long-sleeved overdress of woven cotton/silk); Pojas (sash); Krstaklija dipla (apron); Rizi (woven cloths); Puloi (large silver buckle); Eleče (short bodice); Fes (shallow hat, not visible), to which are attached Tepel’k (silver

jewellery worn on the head) and (artificial flowers); the fes is covered with a Mumija (silk scarf) and Zadni obečki (decorative chains); Kolbi (large silver bracelets)

Pijanec

young bride,

turn of the 20th century

Košula (dress), over which are a Interija (long upper garment, not visible) and a

Saja šarena (plain-weave woollen jacket); Pojas (sash, not visible); Futa (apron) Pafti (buckle) Trijačka sos trkala (cotton cloth) Džube (sleeveless coat) Kopče and Lanec (jewellery worn across the chest) Duale (silk scarf)

Duračka Reka

young bride,

turn of 20th century

Kenarna košula (dress with lace at the hemline), over which is a Alov elek (bodice, not visible);

Širitlija so uzbojki (bodice); Poes-kemer (sash, not visible); Peškir - skutača so tri pretkavi (apron with a horizontal striped pattern at the bottom); Peperuglija skutača (apron with diamond-shaped patterns); Monistreno kolanče so pafti (beaded belt with buckle), around which are two Krpi (pieces of material) Fermene (short jacket edged with fox fur) Džube (sleeveless coat) Jašmak (two white cotton scarfs, on the head, and over the shoulders); Kolalii (knitted wool socks)

Woman's costume. Macedonia. Mid-19th century

The traditional Macedonian women's costume included a shirt, apron, belt, headdress and

klashnik, a white sleeveless knee-length caftan. The belt was an obligatory part of the costume

and was considered to protect women, especially those of pregnant ones, from outer danger.

The caftan was usually pulled up at the front and hung over the belt forming a kind of a pocket

used for keeping various things. On their heads Macedonian women wore long and wide linen

headgears falling down up to the knees on the back. Its lower part was decorated with fringe. 2

2 The Russian Museum of Ethnography

The Mariovo Men's Dress

The Mariovo Men's Dress is made of white linen similar to

the Valley Dress of the Prilep valley, and makes a unit with

it. It is made of hand-woven linen, white or black

broadcloth, richly decorated with embroidery and various

other decorations. Some elements of the old Slav costume

have been preserved in it, for example the "aba", smock,

leggings, valanka, etc. The costume is composed of:

"Aba", an undershirt made of hand-woven folk weave

woolen material called "aba".

Smock of thick hand-woven linen, embroidered on the

front, sleeves, and skirt.

False cuffs, woolen knitted sleeves worn on the arms below

the elbow. The wristbands are decorated with "sopci" i.e.

half hexagons or octagons.

Breeces of white broadcloth which have a special cut.

"Kemer", a griddle of twilled flame - colored wool with

strips and "eyelashes".

Black broadcloth waistcoat, ornamented with flame colored

trimmings. The front is embroidered and decorated with

multicolored buttons.

Socks, knitted from white wool, decorated with natural patterns, net, ribbing, pearl stitch, and

amulet, a triangular shape with spots in it.

Garters, folk weave and stripped, decorated with "eyelashes". These fasten the socks.

Slippers with straps, made of cowhide by a shoemaker.

Cap of black astrakhan and velvet, made by a tailor.

Knife, called "zhrenche", with a chain and a sheath of horn, made by cutler.

West Macedonian national costumes

Macedonian national costume from Mavrovo Region

1920s ANTIQUE MACEDONIAN ART FOLK EMBROIDERY PLACEMAT

private collection, a lovely antique c.1850's Ethnic Macedonian tablecloth/placemat with

hand-embroidered flowers.

from an outstanding private collection, a rare antique 19c.Ethnic Macedonian Men's folk

costume woolen trousers ankle length pants 'Benevrek'. Made of heavy woven wool;

decorated with black wool embroidery.

Macedonian linen pillow with intricate folk motifs hand-embroidery and tassels.

private collection, a rare antique ca.19th century ethnic Macedonian linen pillowcase with

wonderful hand-embroidery.

private folk ethnic collection, an ultra rare antique c.1880`s Debar Macedonian ladies folk

costume dress skirt with stunning colorful folk motives and great pattern.

Macedonian Folk Costume hand-woven wool child's jacket. Lovely hand-embroidered

flowers.

Ethnic Macedonian Kiystendil Area Folk Costume Ladies Winter Sleeveless Dress 'Soukman'

with stunning hand-worked gold embroidery on breast.

private collection, an antique ca.1900's Ethnic Macedonian ladies' purse/handbag. Made of

wool.

an amazing and rare 1900s Antique Macedonian art folk belt. Made of beads embroidery!

Handmade!

Vintage Macedonian wall decor crocheted cover in beautiful art folk motif!

private collection, an wonderful and ultra rare Museum Piece ca.1850-1890s / 19 century

Antique Original Macedonian Ethnic Folk Woman Woolen Dress / Costume with beautiful

golden embroidery on it. The Sleeves are made of Velveteen! This is a Macedonian woolen

dress for its early age.

Here are two pictures taken by Albert Kahn’s photographers in Macedonia. The pictures are

from 1912 and is one of the first in the world taken in color.

Taken from the BBC documentary series "Edwardians In Color. The Wonderful World of Albert Kahn" episode

3 "Europe on the Brink".