TRADITIONAL COSTUMES OF INDIAN - Rajasthan

23.09.2016

ABOUT

• The couture of any culture imbibes and reflects the essence of

its legacy.

• Rajasthan is believed to be the land of the brave and

chivalrous and they do live like wartime heroes.

• The life there is gala and they celebrate every second of their

life.

• They wear bright hues like red, green, yellow, orange, etc. as

it absorbs less heat compared as darker colours.

• Rajasthan is famous for their block prints tie and dye

technique, colorful embroideries and mirror works.

ORIGIN

There is no direct evidence to whom the craft belongs. Each tribes claims the origin of the block printing. Though Kundan was first used in the royal courts of

Rajasthan.

MATERIAL

• Rajasthan is associated with the production of colorful fabrics in the Manu – Gurjar tradition since ancient times.

• Block printings, Bandhani (tie and dye prints), Bagaruprints(hand block printing), sanganer prints and Zariembroidery are major export products.

• The fabrics are generally cotton or silk on which the dying is done. The fabric is tied with a thread at a certain point and then submerged into colourful dyes to create a range of patterns.

• This technique is also used in Ikat & Batik textile.• It is also famous for its mirror works and colorful

embroideries.

Bandhani – Thread, Natural dyes (from plants and insects) mixed with thickener.

Block Printing – Desired designs carved on wood, rubber, or plastics, mordanted cotton or silk fabrics, paints like metallic, and fabric.

Bagaru printing – Generally Indigo or dyed background is used. Design block, Colour, mordanted cotton or silk fabrics, geometric patterns are used.

Sanganer printing – Generally done on white background. It is similar to Bagaru printing except its prints are based on nature.

Embroidery & - Colourful embroidery threads, needles, plastic or glass mirrors, glue.mirror work

Block Printing

Zari Embroidery

Bandani work (tie and dye)

Rajasthani Sanganer print Rajasthani mirror work and embroidery

ACCESSORIES

• Jewellery - Rajasthan jewelleries are beautifully designed and

embellished with diamonds, emeralds and precious

stones.

- The jewelleries are intricately designed with very

fine detailing.

- Kundan is a very famous stone- studded jewellery

which involves extreme intricacy, skill, time and

craftsmanship.

- They are gold jewellery with glass stones

embedded in it.

- Natural elements like moon, leaves, sun and

flowers are the main inspiration for their designs.

• Women - Females from tribes such as Meena, Gayari and Bhil

wear different kind of jewelleries than that of women

from tribes like Raikas and Rabaris. A very common

accessory worn by the women is the ‘borla’ generally

known as ‘maang tikka’ that is worn in the middle

parting of the hair.

• Men - Men too wear accessories such as earrings with a

pearl necklace, gold chain and a thick big bracelet is

worn around their neck.

• Footwear - Mostly the shoes are designed from sheep, camel or

goat which are called Mojaris or Jootis which are

beautifully crafted with stunning embroidery over

velvet or brocade.

• Some of the accessories worn by the Rajasthani women are-

Waist Tagdi.

Neck Noshar Necklace, Tevta, Timaiya, Aad, Hamel Necklace, Gulsari And Madalia.

Forehead Shishpool, Summang, Tika, Rakdri.Ear Surliya, Long And Sankali.Nose Nathali, Long And Kanta.Arm Bajubandh, Baju, Batta.Palms Hathphool.Fingers Rings.Head Rakdi, Borla, Tika, Tildi, Baser, Bindi.Ankles Takane Kanduji, Jhanzaria, Tule, Panjaniya,

Jodh.Toes Bichuvae, Chitki.

Rajasthan choker in a contemporary style- AadTraditional Rajasthani choker - Aad

Traditional Rajasthani attire.

Traditional Rajasthani Tewta .

Aishwarya Rai Bachchan in traditional Rajasthani attire the movie ‘Jodha Akhbar.’ .

Rajasthani weddings are lavish extravagant affaris with heavy use of jewellery.

• Accessories worn by men are-

Amulets – Sher-nakh-jantr

Anklets – Tazim

Gold Necklace – Baleora

Neck – Hansli

Ears – Jhela Ora Murkhi

Shoulder – Khag Or Khandhe- Ka Gahna

Armlet - Bajubandh

COSTUMES

WOMEN

Women wear a long skirt called Ghaghra, Choli or Kurti (blouses

and tops) with an Odhini.

The Ghaghra reaches above the ankle that has a narrow waist

increasing the flare with the width and the base.

The pleats and the width are the symbol of health of the female.

Odhnis are long piece of fabric, embrodried or printed used for

covering the head and matched with the skirt worn. Both Hindu and

Muslim women wear the odhini.

The motifs and colors available on this dress are especially symbolic

to caste and dress

MEN

The men wear Pagri (turban), Pyjamas, Angarkha, Dhoti, Waistband (Patka)

and Kamarbandh are integral clothing of men in Rajasthan.

Pagri (turban)

• Pagri is an important part of men’s costume in Rajasthan.

• The normal pagri is eight inches wide and eighty two feet long.

• The way the pagri is worn varies from region to region, also it signifies

the region and caste of the men like the people of Udaipur tie a flat Pagri

over their head while people from Jaipur wear an angular one. Jodhpuri

men like to wear Safa having curved bands.

• Different types of pagris for big events and festivals.

Angarkha

• It is a body protector generally made of cotton.

• There are 2 main types of Angarkhas – long Angarkha and Kamari

Angarha.

• Easily available throughout the market of Rajasthan.

Pyjamas

• It is used for covering the lower part of men’s body.

• It is worn as a regular dress, generally white in color.

• During some special events men wear Zari border and Silk Dhotis.

Patka

• It is a beautiful garment commonly worn by royal families or higher classes, made if

cotton.

• During the medieval period, it was worn by almost everyone but today it has

become less popular among the youngsters.

• Brahmins, however, wear Patka with traditional dupattas.

CURRENT STATUS

• Earlier, the royal family of Jaipur were the chief patron of the craft.

• The demand for clothes having mirror work, block prints,

embroidery, etc. has increased leading to the increase in production of

these products as well as also increasing the living standard of the

craftsmen.

• It has now gained national and international recognition, we can see

that on the ramp from the various designers who took Rajasthani art as

their inspiration for their collection.

• Anita Dongre’s Spring Summer 2016 collection has been

inspired from Rajasthan.

INFLUENCE OF COLONIAL PERIOD

There is no such valid compilation regarding the cultural prevalence during

the British rule in Rajasthan except that the region of Ajmer- Merwara was

ceded to them by treaty, whereas the rest of it consisted the Nineteen Princely

States, who had accepted Queen Victoria as their feudal lord.

INFLUENCE OF POST COLONIAL PERIOD

• Earlier, the royal family of Jaipur were the chief patron of the

Sanganeri craft. After independence the craft was revived in the 70s

by Kamala Devi Chattopadhayay, the person behind the cottage

movement.

• The industry though has been faced with pollution charges and that

too only because of the printing industry.

• On the brighter side The Government of India under the ‘Geographical

Indication of Goods Registration and protection Act 1999 has made it

punishable , the sale of hand block screen printed products from any

other area as Sanganeri.

• The Act has ensured trade for some 1500 artisans and livelihood for

about 5000 families who are directly or indirectly dependent on block

printing.

EFFECT OF GLOBALIZATION

• Globalization has opened the Rajasthani domestic market to the world.

• Rajasthan has now become a major hub for tourists leading in the growth of the domestic as well as commercial market.

• Designers from all over the world are taking inspiration from its colorful prints and embroideries.

• As a result of it the fashion of fusion has come up.

• The small underpaid craftsman have now broadened their business through the advent of electronic media, expanding their business over seas without the interference of middlemen.

• The upliftment in the lifestyle of the craftsmen has led to better and superior use of raw materials, giving it a more better finish.

Thank You

Mahin Hassan