8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

1/15

Jewellery Quality Management System

An Overview

Tommy TsuiCertified Gemmologist (Diamond), Certified Gemmologist (Fei Cui)

HighCert (Jewelry Design), Executive Diploma in Mgnt (Jewelry) (PolyU)

DGA (UK), FGA (UK), FGAHK, FHKICA

Laboratory Director, Luk Fook Holdings Ltd

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

2/15

Presentation

Content

1) BasicConceptsofJewellery Craftsmanship

2) KeyAttributesofJewellery Quality

3) Jewellery QualityManagementSystem

4) Summary&

View

Sharing

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

3/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

1) BasicConceptsofJewellery Craftbased

ProductionSystem

Jewellery productionsystemiscomposedofseriesof

craftsmanship intensiveprocesses.

Specialtiesofjewellery craftsmanship

Jewellery craftsmanshipcanhardlybeexplicitly

described&fullyexpressedbywords:akindoftacit

knowhow.

Jewellery craftsmanshipisgainedthroughlearnby

doing(making)approachinamaster&apprentice

system.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

4/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

1) KeyConceptsoftheNature&

Attributesof

Jewellery

Craftsmanship*

FreeCraftsmanship(handcraftsmanship):

Themastermodelmakertranslatesthedesignersvisualdrawingintoamaster

pieceofjewellery withahighlevelhand

craftsmanship,i.e.

free

craftsmanship,

withhisartisticsense&imagination.

*

Siu,

Norman

W.C.

(2001)

Design

in

the

Hong

Kong

Jewellery Industry:

The

Transformation

of

Labour

intensive

ProductionthroughValueaddedCraftsmanship.PhDThesis,TheHongKongPolytechnicUniversity,HongKong.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

5/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

1) KeyConceptsoftheNature&

Attributesof

Jewellery

Craftsmanship*

Regulated Craftsmanship(hand

craftsmanship):

Thewelltrainedskilledcraftworkers

operatethefabricationprocesseswith

regulatedcraftsmanship

:gold

casting,

metalfiling,gemstonesetting,

electroplatingandpolishingetc.

*

Siu,

Norman

W.C.

(2001)

Design

in

the

Hong

Kong

Jewellery Industry:

The

Transformation

of

Labour

intensive

ProductionthroughValueaddedCraftsmanship.PhDThesis,TheHongKongPolytechnicUniversity,HongKong.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

6/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

1) KeyConceptsoftheNature&

Attributesof

Jewellery

Craftsmanship*

DigitalCraftsmanship:

ThewelltrainedDigitalGoldsmithwithadigitalcraftsmanshipuseCAD/CAM

software&operatetherapid

prototypemachine

in

making

RP

modelsforcastingandreproduction.

*

Siu,

Norman

W.C.

(2001)

Design

in

the

Hong

Kong

Jewellery Industry:

The

Transformation

of

Labour

intensive

ProductionthroughValueaddedCraftsmanship.PhDThesis,TheHongKongPolytechnicUniversity,HongKong.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

7/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

1) KeyConceptsoftheNature&Attributesof

Jewellery Craftsmanship

ManagementofCraftbasedProductionProcess:

Allthejewellery productionoperationsdemandahigh

levelof

craftsmanship:

free

craftsmanship,

regulated

craftsmanship&digitalcraftsmanship.

Theskill,judgmentandexperienceofthecraftsmen,

craftworker

and

digital

goldsmith

are

very

important

factorsinthecontrolofthequalityofthefinalproducts.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

8/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

2) KeyAttributesofJewellery Quality

Specificationofqualityattributesofjewellery materials:

Goldandotherpreciousmetals:ISOStandardsofcontent

ofpreciousmetalalloys

Pure

Gold

Au999.9

KaratgoldAu916,Au750,Au585

PlatinumPt999.5,Pt999,Pt950,Pt900, Pt850

Qualitycontroltestesbytechnicalmethods:FireAssay,

ICPorEDXray.

Quality

gatekeeper

:engineer

and

technician

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

9/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

2) KeyAttributesofJewellery Quality

Specificationofqualityattributesofjewellery materials:

Diamond:4Cs(Carat,Colour,Clarity,Cut)

Diamondsorting&gradingprocesswith4Cstandard

Qualitygatekeeper:gemmologist andprofessionalgraders,e.g.CertifiedGemmologist (Diamond)

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

10/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

2) KeyAttributesofJewellery Quality

Specificationofqualityattributesofjewellery materials

Gemstones:

identificationofFei Cui:naturalvs chemicaltreatment

andcolour dyed

identificationofcoloured stones:naturalvs synthetic

andartificialtreatment

Qualitygatekeeper:gemmologist andprofessional

graders,e.g.CertifiedGemmologist (Fei Cui)

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

11/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

3) Jewellery QualityManagementSystem

Qualitycontrolinthekeyprocessofhandfabricationof

metal

Checkthegoldaftermeltingorcastingtoensurethegold

content

Checkthedefaultsordeformingpieceinducedbycasting

orotherproductionprocessestoreducethedefectrate

atevery

production

stage,

and

to

ensure

good

metal

forfinishingprocess

Qualitykeeper craftsmanandqualitycontroller

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

12/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

3) Jewellery QualityManagementSystem

Testingofeverypieceofprocesseditems(quality

assuranceineachdepartment)

takingjewellery samplessetwithdiamond,gemstones

andgold

mountings

for

random

check

at

every

stage

of

productiontoensurethequalityandpreventswitchby

worker

regular

checking

the

tools

and

machine

to

maintain

themingoodcondition

Qualitygatekeeper:qualitycontroller,technologist

andengineers.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

13/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

4) Summary&ViewSharing

Jewellery QualityManagementSystemisaveryspecial

CraftbasedQMSmodel.

Jewellery QMSissustainedbythetotalityofQAs inallthe

departmentalizedproduction

sub

systems.

Ahumancenteredsystem:highlyrelianceonhuman

factor,i.e.gatekeepersskillandjudgment.

Supplemented

by

high

technology

equipment

to

conduce

scientificanalysisofcontentsoffabricatedmetals,

gemstoneidentificationetc.

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

14/15

Jewellery QualityManagement

System

4) Summary&ViewSharing

ContinuousImprovement&Challenges

Continuetogetaperfectbalanceofcraftsmanshipand

operationstandardization

Decoding

and

articulation

of

craft

know

how

attributes

forthemodulesofinternaltrainingprogramme

SettingaCPDorientedcareerdevelopmentpathforthe

internalstaff

8/13/2019 Tommy Tsui_r

15/15

THANKS