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Page 1: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

Title Page

Page 2: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

Introduction Don’t Be a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse

Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise from the

cave carries to these houses and can torment the

residents, some of whom are elderly and may be in at

all times of the day.

To save the locals from bother, develop good relations

and avoid access issues in the future please:

Avoid shouting and bad language

Keep conversations at a low volume

Take any litter home with you

don’t use the crag as a toilet; there is

a public toilet by the park.

All photos by Iain Brown @iainclimbs

Location Park sensibly on Church Hill in Woodhouse Eaves.

Forest Rock is down the hill from the church and will

be visible from the road.

Page 3: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

The Cave - Own Narrative to Cracked Up 1 Own Narrative f7b+

Sit-start beneath the slot. Climb pas the

flakes to gain a large pinch on the volume in

the roof. Swing your feet onto the back wall

to finish matched on the pinch.

2 Anti-Hero f7c

Sit-start matched on the large undercut

sidepull. Traverse right along the rail to a big

gaston. Finish with hands split between an

edge and a sloper on the volume in the roof.

2a Siren’s Call f8a+

An extension to Anti-Hero, from the gaston,

reverse Missing Ink, to finish as for Cracked Up.

3 Cracked Up f7b

Sit-start the crack at the back of the cave. Finish

matched on the volume in the roof. Avoid the back

wall.

4 Squishy Squashy f7c+

Start as for Anti-Hero, traverse left into the finish of

Own Narrative.

4a Witchcraft f7c+

Start as for Own Narrative, traverse right to join Anti-Hero.

4 Missing Ink f7c+

Start as for Cracked Up, traverse left past the slot and pocket to

finish as for Anti-Hero.

6 Black Art f7c+

Use a spike and a slopey pinch around the back of the volume to

pull up into a kneebar. Climb the volume, without the sidewalls, to

finish matched on the big pinch at the end of Own Narrative.

Page 4: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

1 Own Narrative f7b+

2 Anti-Hero f7c

3 Cracked Up f7b

The Cave - Own Narrative to Cracked Up (Link-Ups) Necromancer f8a

Witchcraft into Black Art (1-4-B-6-A)

Apartheid f8a

Anti-Hero into Black Art. Eliminate the side walls once established at the start of Black Art (2-B-6-A)

Squishy Ink f8a

Missing Ink into Squishy Squashy (3-5-4-A)

The Warlock f8a+

Missing Ink into Black Art (3-5-B-6-A)

4 Squishy Squashy/Witchcraft f7c+

5 Missing Ink/Siren’s Call f7c+

6 Black Art f7c+

Described on Previous Pages

Giorgos Krikelis on Missing Ink

Page 5: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

The Cave - Limit Breaker and Notes to Self

4 Own Narrative f7b+

5 Anti-Hero f7c

6 Cracked Up f7b

Described on Previous Pages

7 Squishy Squashy/Witchcraft f7c+

8 Missing Ink/Siren’s Call f7c+

9 Black Art f7c+

Link Up

Twenty-One f8a+

Sit-start from the Anti-Hero crimp rail

and finish as for Easy Rider.

1 Limit Breaker f8b+

From a stand start make wild slaps past the two

opposing sidepulls to finish at the undercut above.

2 Notes to Self f8a

Sit-start, make a big move to the borehole and

crimp and gain the flake above. Finish by pressing

into a small edge in the roof up and back from the

flake (around the end of the topo line).

3 Easy Rider f7c+

Start as for Own Narrative, from the slot traverse

left to finish up Notes to Self.

4 Steel Rider f7c+

Climb Own Narrative to the undercut flake, move

left to gain the high flake of Notes to Self finish as

for this.

Page 6: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

7 Anti Hero f7c

8 Cracked Up f7b

9 Easy Rider f7c+

10 Steel Rider f7c+

11 Squishy Squashy f7c+

12 Missing Ink f7c+

4 Limit Breaker f8b+

5 Notes to Self f8a

6 Own Narrative f7c

The Cave - Sorceress to In Search of Blame 1 1 Sorceress f7a

Sit-start on big flakes to finish up the thin crack

line up and right. The stand start is f6c+

2 2 Lucid Interval f8a

Sit-start the arête on its right side avoiding

handholds left of the crack (see red line in

photo); no foot rules. Finish on crimps at the

vague groove above. The stand-start is f7c+

2a One Clear Moment f8b

Sit-start just right of the arête to finish as for

Lucid Interval. Eliminate the arête and all holds

beyond it. The stand-start is f8a+.

3 In Search of Blame f8a

Start as for Own Narrative, traverse left to

finish up Sorceress.

Described on Previous Pages

13 Black Art f7c+

Page 7: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

7 Anti Hero f7c

8 Cracked Up f7b

9 Easy Rider f7c+

10 Steel Rider f7c+

11 Squishy Squashy f7c+

12 Missing Ink f7c+

13 Black Art f7c+

4 Limit breaker f8b+

5 Notes to Self f8a

6 Own Narrative f7c

The Cave - Sorceress to In Search of Blame (Link Ups)

Described on Previous Pages

1 Sorceress f7a

2 Lucid Interval f8a

3 In Search of Blame f8a

Grimoire f8a+

Sorceress into Notes to Self (1-3-D)

Witch Hunt f8a+

Sorceress into Own Narrative (1-3-9-E)

Ascension of Evil f8a

Sorceress into Anti Hero (1-3-9-11-F)

Relentless f8b

Own Narrative into Lucid Interval (6-9-3-B)

Lost in the Moment f8b

Own Narrative into One Clear Moment (6-9-3-B)

Tyler’s Relentless Onslaught f8b

From the Anti Hero rail into Lucid Interval (7-11-9-3-A)

In Search of Tyler f8b

From the Anti Hero rail into Sorceress (7-11-9-3-A)

Ladybird Orgy f8b+

Cracked Up into Sorceress (8-12-11-9-3-A)

Page 8: Title Page - WordPress.com€¦ · Title Page. Introduction Don’t e a Dickhead Forest Rock lies within the quiet village of Woodhouse Eaves in very close proximity to houses. Noise

7 Anti Hero f7c

8 Cracked Up f7b

9 Easy Rider f7c+

10 Steel Rider f7c+

11 Squishy Squashy f7c+

12 Missing Ink f7c+

13 Black Art f7c+

4 Limit breaker f8b+

5 Notes to Self f8a

6 Own Narrative f7c

The Cave - Sorceress to In Search of Blame (Downgrader Variations)

Described on Previous Pages

1 Sorceress f7a

2 Lucid Interval f8a

3 In Search of Blame f8a

The Downgrader f7c

From a stand-start, climb Notes to Self with an

extended finish which continues through the roof to

reach a pocket high on the back wall. The name is a

reference to a useful kneebar, with a foot on the final

pinch of Own Narrative. The Stand start is Hard Rider

f8a. (5-D-14-G).

Grim Downgrader f8b

Sorceress into The Downgrader (1-3-D-14-G).

Joy Rider f7c+

Own Narrative into The Downgrader (6-9-D-14-G).

Steel Downgrader f8a

Steel Rider into The Downgrader (6-10-D-14-G).

Twenty Three f8a+

Anti Hero rail to The Down Grader (7-11-9-D-14-G)