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FABRIC TESTING USER GUIDE

Fabric Testing User Guide

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Contents 1. Change history ...................................................................................................................................... 4

2. Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 5

2.1. Solution Overview ......................................................................................................................... 5

3. FTU Setup and Connection ................................................................................................................... 8

3.1. Mark-10 Tension Meter Assembly ................................................................................................ 8

3.1.1 List of Included Items ............................................................................................................ 8

3.1.2 Physical features ................................................................................................................... 9

3.1.3 Mounting ............................................................................................................................... 9

3.1.4 Mounting the Control Panel ................................................................................................. 9

3.1.5 Limit Switches ..................................................................................................................... 10

3.1.6 Connections and Outputs ................................................................................................... 10

3.1.7 Installing the 09-1158 USB Cable ........................................................................................ 11

3.1.8 Installing a M5-300 Force Gauge ........................................................................................ 11

3.1.9 Installing the 09-1214 Interface Cable ................................................................................ 12

3.1.10 Install G1015-1 Grips ........................................................................................................... 12

3.1.11 Connecting Power ............................................................................................................... 12

3.1.12 Configure the Machine ....................................................................................................... 13

3.2. Software Installation ................................................................................................................... 13

3.2.1 Install RS-232 – USB Cable Drivers ...................................................................................... 13

3.2.2 Install the Fabric Meter Application ................................................................................... 14

3.2.3 Determine the Connection COM Port ................................................................................. 15

3.3. Configuring the Fabric Meter Application................................................................................... 16

3.3.1 Connect to Machine ............................................................................................................ 16

3.3.2 Calibration ........................................................................................................................... 18

3.4. Stiffness Tester Preparation ........................................................................................................ 19

4. Fabric Testing Preparation .................................................................................................................. 20

4.1. Specimen Preparation ................................................................................................................. 20

5. Fabric Testing Procedure .................................................................................................................... 21

5.1.1 Starting Fabric Testing......................................................................................................... 21

5.1.2 Specify General Fabric Properties ....................................................................................... 22

5.1.3 Specify Specimen Dimensions and Measure Fabric Weight ............................................... 26


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5.1.4 Measure Fabric Thickness ................................................................................................... 28

5.1.5 Measure Bending ................................................................................................................ 30

5.1.6 Measure Stretch / Shear ..................................................................................................... 33

5.1.7 Physical Properties Confirmation ........................................................................................ 35


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1. Change history

Date Version Author Details

9/19/19 1 Tseytlin A. Initial creation of doc


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2. Introduction This document provides you with an overview and brief operating guide for Optitex Fabric Testing

Unit (FTU), used for the measurement of fabric physical properties. Determining physical fabric

properties is an important part of the Optitex solution, and critical for achieving proper and realistic

garment simulation in Optitex 3D.

The Optitex FTU provides you with a series of devices and corresponding methods for automatic and

accurate measurement of fabric weight, thickness, stretch, shear, bend and friction. The

measurement methods are powered by industry standards, providing you with the highes level of

measurement precision and reliability.

2.1. Solution Overview

Optitex FTU provides you with following components:

Fabric Stiffness Tester

The fabric stiffness tester is an analog device that manually measures bending property (i.e., fabric

stiffness or flexural rigidity). The device provides you with the precise and accurate measurement of

stiffness performed in a simple and quick manner with no additional jigs. The measurement method

is compliant with standards and industry practice. The stiffness tester does not require preliminary

setup or inter-operational setup in-between different fabrics measurement.

Mark-10 Digital Tension Meter


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The Mark-10 Digital Tension Meter provides you with the possibility to automatically measure fabric

stretch (i.e., surface tension) in warp and weft direction. The digital tension meter is also used to

perform automated shear measurement using a diagonally oriented specimen. The digital tension

meter utilizes a permanent machine setup to reduce the preparation time. The machine provides

you with a fully-automatic cycle, allowing you to obtain surface tension by a series of

force/elongation measurements. The machine provides you with a simple connection to a PC via RS-

232 protocol, which is used to establish a smart measurement data transfer between the machine

and the Fabric Meter application.

Fabric Weight Digital Scale

The high precision digital scale is required to perform accurate measurement of the weight per unit

area.

Digital Thickness Gauge

The digital thickness gauge is available within the Fabric Testing Unit to perform accurate

measurement of fabric thickness. According to industry common practice, the standard ASTM D1777

- 96(2015) is used for thickness measurement. The standard describes averaging thickness on

different places of the fabric and applying different pressure according to fabric type (knit or woven).

The standard also describes the use of a different foot for various fabric types. However, simple

thickness measurement provided by the digital thickness gauge yields sufficient results for fabric

simulation purposes.


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Fabric Meter Application

The Fabric Meter application allows you to create and manage fabric libraries in Optitex. The

application enables you to perform the definition of fabric properties as well as fabric testing using a

guided wizard-based flow. The application provides you with the connection to the Mark-10 tension

meter mentioned above, and allows you to perform automatic measurement of stretch and shear

properties in a single click. For the other measurements (bending, thickness, weight etc.), the

application provides you with an easy-to-use user interface, allowing you to enter raw measurement

data for further calculation of corresponding physical property.


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3. FTU Setup and Connection This topic provides you with the description of the software installation and FTU machines

preparation procedure (i.e., the procedures you have to pass to get FTU ready for fabric

measurement).

3.1. Mark-10 Tension Meter Assembly

This topic provides you with a description of the Mark-10 ESM303 tension meter machine assembly

procedure.

For more information about the Mark-10 ESM3030 tension meter and corresponding equipment,

refer to the relevant user guide available at www.mark-10.com

3.1.1 List of Included Items

The list below provides you with the content of the Mark-10 ESM303 tension meter package.

Description Qty.

M5-300 Force gauge 1

Force gauge mounting adapter 1

Force gauge / indicator mounting screws, #6-32 x 1/2 4

Limit switch thumb screws, #6-32 x 5/8 2

Control panel 1

Control panel mounting bracket 1

Screw for mounting control panel bracket to column, 1/4-20 x 1”, with lock washers

1

Screws for mounting control panel to bracket, 1/4-28 x 1-1/4”, with lock washers 2

Accessories kit:

- #10-32F small hook

- #10-32M medium hook

- #10-32F 2” diameter comp. plate

- #10-32 M/F 2” extension rod

- #10-32 F/F coupler

- Adapter, 5/16-18M to #10-32F

- Set screw, #10-32 x 3/4" (3)

- Hex nut, #10-32 (3)

- Allen wrench set

1

09-1214 Test stand-gauge interface cable 1

http://www.mark-10.com/


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09-1158 USB cable 1

G1015-1 Film & paper grip, 3" 2

Resource CD 1

Power cord 1

3.1.2 Physical features

Note the following physical features. The user guide will reference this terminology.

3.1.3 Mounting

Place the stand on a clean, flat and level work area free from vibration.

For the vertically oriented ESM303, it is recommended to mount the stand to a work bench via

screws fastened into the underside of the base. Failure to properly mount the test stand may

make it more vulnerable to tipping, especially if a column extension is used. This can cause a

hazardous situation.

3.1.4 Mounting the Control Panel

To avoid damage during shipment, the control panel and mounting bracket are packaged

separately. Follow these installation instructions:


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1. Install the mounting bracket to the column utilizing one 1/4-20 screw.

2. Install the control panel to the mounting bracket utilizing two #8-32 screws.

3. The viewing angle may be adjusted by loosening the lever, positioning the control panel,

and re-tightening the lever.

3.1.5 Limit Switches

Upper and lower limit switches are supplied to stop travel in both directions. The limit switch

thumb screws are shipped banded together, as illustrated below:

Remove the rubber band and instructional tag before use. Refer to later sections for more detailed

information about limit switches.

3.1.6 Connections and Outputs

The following connections and outputs are supplied in the rear of the test stand, as shown in the

illustration below:


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• USB connector. Outputs force only or force and travel data (optional) via USB. Also allows for PC

control (optional).

• Auxiliary limit switch connector. For interfacing an external limit switch, such as an interlock for

a machine guard door. A pin diagram is shown in the next sub-section.

• Control panel cable connector. Plug the cable into this connector.

• Power switch. Refer to the Connecting Power sub-section for important safety information.

• Power plug receptacle. Plug the power cord in here. Refer to the Connecting Power sub-section

for important safety information.

3.1.7 Installing the 09-1158 USB Cable

Plug one end of the USB cable into the corresponding connector. Install the USB driver before

physically connecting the tester to a PC with the USB cable.

Refer to topic 3.2.1 for driver installation information.

3.1.8 Installing a M5-300 Force Gauge

Once the test stand is in a stable and secure position, install a force gauge by mating the dowel

pin in the force gauge mounting plate with the blind hole in the rear of the force gauge’s housing.

Use the four thumb screws to secure the gauge. Grips and fixtures may be threaded onto the

force gauge and test stand base.

It is important to not put too much pressure at any time on the force gauge as it is very sensitive

and can easily be damaged.


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3.1.9 Installing the 09-1214 Interface Cable

If using test stand functions requiring communication between the force gauge / indicator and

test stand, such as data output, overload protection, preload, etc., connect the interface cable

between the instrument’s connector and the crosshead’s connector.

Refer to the image below:

3.1.10 Install G1015-1 Grips

Install G1015-1 Film & paper grip, 3" following these installation instructions:

1. Install the lower grip on the base table.

2. Install the upper grip on the threaded loading shaft of the force gauge.

Make sure that both grips are installed parallel to each other as shown below.

3.1.11 Connecting Power

Plug one end of the power cord into its receptacle at the rear of the stand and the other end into

a wall outlet with local earth ground (3-prong connector).

Before turning the power on, the following safety checks and procedures should be performed:


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1. Never operate the test stand if there is any visible damage to the power cord or the test stand

itself. The ESM303 is powered by 110V/220V. Any contact with this high voltage can cause

serious injury or even death.

2. Ensure that the test stand is kept away from water or any electrically conductive liquids at all

times.

3. Make sure the electrical outlet powering the test stand has local earth ground (3-prong

connector).

4. The test stand should be serviced by a trained technician only. Power must be disconnected

before the column covers are removed.

After the above safety checks and procedures have been performed, the test stand can be

powered on and is ready for operation.

3.1.12 Configure the Machine

Using the Mark-10 ESM303 tension meter user interface, confirm the following settings before using the machine for the first time:

• Speed:254

• Upper limit: 400

• Lower limit:-400

• Overload V:+/-4

• C overload: 90%

• T overload:90%

• 6 7. Control: PC

• Baud rate: 115200

• Stop & par: 8-1n

• Units: mm/min Make sure that Newton units are used as default at Force Gauge.

3.2. Software Installation

This topic provides you with instruction for software installation.

3.2.1 Install RS-232 – USB Cable Drivers

Install the USB driver provided on the Resource CD, labeled “Mark-10 USB Device”. Install the USB

driver before physically connecting the tester to a PC with the USB cable.

1. Run the application “Mark-10USBInstaller_x64.exe” for 64-bit operating systems, or “Mark-

10USBInstaller_x86.exe” for 32-bit operating systems.


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2. Follow the instructions available within the installation routine.

3. After the installation completes, you may be prompted to restart the computer. This is

recommended though not necessary.

4. Connect the Mark-10 instrument to a USB port on the PC.

For more information about USB driver installation refer to the USB Driver User’s Guide available within

the USB Driver installation package at www.mark-10.com.

3.2.2 Install the Fabric Meter Application

Install the Fabric Meter application provided by Optitex.

1. Run the application “FabricMeter_64Bit_XX.X.XXX.X.exe” for 64-bit operating systems.

http://www.mark-10.com/


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2. Follow the instructions available within the installation routine.

3. After the installation completes, the Fabric Meter application is ready for use.

3.2.3 Determine the Connection COM Port

The COM-Port is used to connect the Fabric Meter application to the Mark-10 ESM303 tension

meter machine.

Once the machine is connected to the PC via the USB cable, launch Device Manager and check the

COM port used for the connection of the USB cable.


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3.3. Configuring the Fabric Meter Application

This topic provides you with an explanation of how to configure the application and perform the

connection of the application to the Mark-10 ESM303 tension meter machine.

3.3.1 Connect to Machine

To connect the Fabric Meter application to the machine, perform the following actions:

1. Launch the Fabric Meter application .

2. Go to the Settings command in the application toolbar to display the Settings dialog box.

3. Once the Settings dialog box appears, choose the appropriate COM in the Connection

COM Ports combo box. Select the port used for the Mark-10 machine connection

determined as described in topic 3.2.3.


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4. When the COM port is selected, click the Connect button to establish the connection.

5. When the connection is established, the color of the Connect icon changes to green.


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3.3.2 Calibration

When the machine is connected, the calibration procedure is required to determine the zero

position of the crosshead travel, as well as the zero level of force. The calibration is critical for

achieving the required accuracy of measurement results.

Perform the following steps:

1. Click the Calibrate button in the Settings dialog box.


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2. The automated calibration cycle starts. During this procedure, the upper grip is

moved towards the lower grip until they touch. Once the grips touch each other

with some pressure, the travel indicator is set to zero. The zero level of the force

is determined as well.

3. Once the calibration is completed, grips are placed at a distance of ~6cm; the

force gauge is set to zero.

It is recommended to perform the calibration each time the machine is turned off or when zero

settings were changed.

3.4. Stiffness Tester Preparation

The stiffness tester should be placed on a strong horizontal surface; the horizontality of the tester

position should be verified with the spirit level and adjusted by screw legs.


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4. Fabric Testing Preparation This topic provides you with the description of preparation procedures required for the test. The topic

does not cover machine and software preparation; this is covered in topic 3.3.

4.1. Specimen Preparation

Prior to the fabric testing procedure, a number of specimens should be prepared.

• It is recommended to use a cutting board and dedicated knife / blade for specimen cutting.

• For stretch / shear measurement, 3 rectangular specimens are required; one in each direction:

warp, weft, and bias.

• For bending measurement, 10 rectangular specimens are required; 5 in each direction: warp and

weft.

• For weight and thickness measurement, one of the previously described specimens is used.

• In most cases, the specimen size of 3x8 cm should be used for all tests. However, with highly rigid

fabric, the longer specimen (3x16 cm or more) is required for the bending testing to ensure

accurate measurement.

• Cut specimens from different areas across the fabric roll to achieve a better representation of

fabric properties. Do not cut specimens too close to selvage.


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5. Fabric Testing Procedure This topic provides you with a detailed description of the fabric testing procedure.

5.1.1 Starting Fabric Testing

Create a new fabric using the New Fabric command in the Fabric meter application menu.

A new fabric is created and added to the fabric library.

Launch the Fabric Wizard to start the fabric measurement and corresponding fabric definition.

The Fabric Wizard is displayed as shown below and is available to perform the definition and

testing of the newly-created fabric.


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The Fabric Wizard provides you with the ability to perform the fabric definition via a guided flow

consisting of the following five steps.

• General Properties definition

• Weight & Thickness definition

• Bending testing

• Stretch & Shear testing

• Physical Properties overview and confirmation

5.1.2 Specify General Fabric Properties

In the first stage general fabric properties as fabric name, description, manufacturer and

composition are defined.

Specify the name for the current fabric in the Fabric Name edit box.

In the Description edit box, type the text describing the fabric.

Choose the fabric Manufacturer from the list.


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If the required manufacturer does not appear in the list, a new Manufacturer should be added.

To add a new manufacturer, open a drop down menu located close to the Manufacturer combo

box as shown above, and choose the icon. A new manufacturer will be added to the list of

available manufacturers. Customize the Manufacturer name.

Once the manufacturer is added to the list, it appears in the Manufacturer combo box as well and

becomes available for the fabric definition.


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Open the Composition combo box to define the fabric composition.

The composition definition is performed by choosing an appropriate fiber type and specifying

corresponding percentage.

Choosing the fiber type is performed via combo box embedded into cells of the Fiber column.

Once the fiber type is selected, specify the corresponding value of the percentage.


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When the required fiber type does not appear in the list, it should be added to the list.

To add a new fiber type, open a drop down menu located close to the Composition combo box as

shown above, and choose the icon. A new fiber type will be added to the list. Customize the

newly-added fiber type name.


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When the definition of fabric general properties is completed, click the Next button in the Fabric

Wizard to proceed to the next step.

5.1.3 Specify Specimen Dimensions and Measure Fabric Weight

Entering specimen dimensions (Width and Length) is necessary for the calculation of weight per

unit area.

Enter the dimensions of the specimen that you are going to use for the weight testing. When you

use specimens of different sizes for bending and stretch/shear testing, use the largest specimen

for weighing and enter its size within the corresponding edit boxes.

The digital scale used for the fabric weighing should be calibrated prior to the testing. The

calibration provides you with reliable accuracy for measurements.

Make sure that the scale provides you with the measurement results using gram units.


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Turn on the scale and put the specimen on the plate.

Once the result of weight measurement is obtained, enter the measurement result in the Weight

edit box.

When the measured value is entered, the value of the Weight per Unit Area property is

automatically calculated and displayed. The previously specified dimensions of the specimen are

utilized for the calculation.

Since the weighing does not cause the specimen destruction, the tested specimen could be used

for further tests.


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5.1.4 Measure Fabric Thickness

The fabric thickness measurement is performed according to the spirit of the standard ASTM

D1777 - 96(2015), representing the industry common practice. The standard describes averaging

thickness on different places of the fabric and applying different pressure according to fabric type

(knit or woven). The standard also describes use of different foot for various fabric types.

The full compliance with the standard requirements provides you with the redundant precision.

For fabric simulation purposes, the simple thickness measurement provided by the digital

thickness gauge yields sufficient results.

The digital thickness gauge used for the fabric thickness measurement should be calibrated prior

to the testing. The calibration provides you with reliable accuracy for measurements.

Open the spring clamp of the digital thickness meter and put the fabric specimen in between

gauge foots as shown below.

Release the spring clamp and perform the fabric thickness measurement as shown below.


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Perform three similar measurements in different areas of the specimen and calculate an average

value of thickness. Convert the obtained value to centimeters and enter the thickness value into

the Thickness edit box as shown below.

Since the thickness measurement does not cause the specimen destruction, the tested specimen

can be used for further tests.

Once the Thickness is specified, click on the Next button to finalize the Weight and Thickness

definition step, and proceed to the Bending measurement.


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5.1.5 Measure Bending

The bending (i.e., flexural rigidity or stiffness) test is performed using a stiffness tester device

utilizing the cantilever principle. The bending test is performed twice for both warp and weft

directions using corresponding specimens.

Place the specimen onto the top table of the stiffness tester. The specimen should be placed

parallel to the table edge. Avoid contact of the specimen with the vertical wall to prevent possible

friction. The end of the specimen should be aligned with the red marker as shown below.

Accurately place the ruler onto the spacimen, preserving the alignment of the ruler zero with the

red marker as shown below.


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Move the ruler together with the appressed specimen forward until the leading edge projects

from the horizontal table. During the specimen movement, the tip of specimen is depressed under

its own mass. Control over the tip touching the red line. The control should be performed visually

with such sight direction when both red lines (located on the glass and mirror) appear as a single

line. The red line makes a 0.724 rad (41.5°) angle with the horizontal.

Once the tip reaches the red line, stop the ruler movement and read the ruler value. The

measured length of the overhang is considered as bending length (BL). From this measured

bending length, the flexural rigidity is calculated.

The same measurement procedure should be performed 5 times using different specimens (see

topic 4.1 for the more information about specimen preparation). Calculate the average value for

the measured bending length.

In the Bending Properties page of the Fabric Wizard, make sure that the Angle option is selected.

This option allows you to enter the bending length value measured by the cantilever test. Make

sure that the angle value of 41.5 degrees (as mentioned above) appears in the Bending Angle edit

box for the current fabric direction.

Enter the average Bending Length value in the corresponding Bending Length edit box.


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The Bending Length edit box allows you to enter the bending length value in centimeters; make

sure you use the correct units while measuring.

Repeat the same procedure for the second fabric direction and enter the corresponding values.

Once the bending length is specified, the corresponding bending (flexural rigidity) value is

calculated and displayed in the corresponding edit boxes as shown below.

Since the bending measurement does not cause the specimen destruction, the tested specimen

can be used for further tests.

Once the Bending is specified, click on the Next button to finalize the Bending definition step and

proceed to the Stretch & Shear measurement.


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5.1.6 Measure Stretch / Shear

The Stretch & Shear Properties page of the Fabric Wizard allows you to perform measurement of

stretch and shear properties using the automatic measurement cycle provided by the connected

Mark-10 ESM303 tension meter.

Prior to the measurement make sure that the tension meter is connected; the connection

indicator icon located in the bottom right corner of the application window should appear as

green.

If the connection is not established, perform the actions described in topic 3.3.1.

Clamp the specimen cut in the wrap direction in grips as shown below. The clamping of an 8 cm

length specimen should be performed in such a way that 1 cm of the specimen will be clamped

within the grip, leaving 6 cm of specimen in between grips.


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Once the specimen is clamped; enter the value of 6 for the Rest Length and click the button

to start the measurement.

When the measurement is performed, measured raw data is displayed within the Stretch grid.

The respective stretch value is automatically calculated and displayed within the corresponding

edit box.


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Remove the specimen from the grips.

In the same manner, perform the measurement of specimens cut in the weft and bias direction.

Make a note that stretch and shear tests are destructive; the repeated use of already measured

specimens is not allowed.

Once all stretch and shear properties are measured and calculated, click on the Next button to

finalize the definition step and proceed to the Physical Properties confirmation step.

5.1.7 Physical Properties Confirmation

The Physical Properties page displays with the list of calculated fabric properties, and provides

the possibility to check and confirm them. In addition, the Physical Properties page allows you to

override values.


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To override a certain value, activate the check box located next to the value edit box; the edit box

becomes enabled.

Enter a new value in the enabled edit box.

Make a note that deactivating the override checkbox returns the edit box value to a previously

calculated value; the override value in this case is rejected.

The Physical Properties page also provides you with the ability to specify the coefficient of fabric

friction. As contrasted to other controls of the Physical Properties group, the Friction parameter

is not a derivative of fabric measurement. This property is purely a user-defined parameter which

is not calculated by the system, but explicitly assigned by the user.

The slider provides you with the ability to specify the friction value incrementally from 0.05 to

0.95 with an increment of 0.15. This means that the slider provides you with 7 tick marks (0.05;

0.2; 0.35; 0.5; 0.65; 0.8; 0.95).

The lower values of the Friction describe cases of better sliding fabrics with the composition based

on polyester, viscose, silk and nylon (e.g., silk organza, chiffon and batiste), and with a low level

of surface roughness.


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The recommended range for these values is 0.05 – 0.35. The friction of most fabrics where the

composition is based on cotton or polyester with an intermediate level of roughness is located in

the range of 0.5-0.65 (denim, corduroy, twill). Higher values of friction (0.8-0.95) describe cases

of less sliding fabrics (hard leather, heavy linen, fleece), with a high level of surface roughness.

When the fabric properties definition is completed, click the Finish button to finalize the fabric

definition.

The defined fabric will be stored in the fabric library. Newly added fabric is selected within the

fabrics list; its properties are displayed as shown below.

title for this story - help.optitex.com · unit (ftu), used for the measurement of fabric physical...

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