fabric properties 3

7/31/2019 Fabric Properties 3

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Fabric Properties-3

Fabric Drape

Crease Resistance

Abrasion Resistance

Pilling


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Fabric Drape

The fabrics like organzaand organdie, eventhough they are lightand sheer, are quitestiff, whereas a lightfabric like chiffon has agreat deal of drape.Denim is usually both

stiff and heavy. Therearent many heavy,fluid fabrics, but woolcrepes and suitings

can be.


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The drape of fabric is a veryimportant property to be analysedbefore selecting a fabric forgarment Production. A fabric is saidto have a good draping qualitieswhen the configuration is pleasingto an eye.

Def.- The drape and drapability areterms for that property of textilematerials, which allows a fabric toorient itself into graceful holds orpleats when acted upon by force of

gravity. The drape is also defined as the

extent to which a fabric will deformwhen it is allowed to hang under its

own weight.


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Drape Coefficient

It is defined as the area

covered by the shadow ofthe draped specimen

expressed as percentage of

the area of the annular ring

of fabric.

A circular fabric specimen is

sandwiched between two

discs and the ring of fabric is

allowed to hang down under

the action of gravity.
http://www.sdlatlas.com/media/uploads/highres/M213web.jpg


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The drape pattern obtained is cutalong the outline and its areadetermined. The drape co-efficient iscalculated as the ratio of projected

area of the drape specimen to itstheoretical maximum.

It is a number with a theoreticalmaximum of hundred and minimum of

zero. The drape measurement is significant

in garment industry where the fabricis selected according to the end use.

For e.g, the fabrics for suiting shouldpossess lesser drape coefficient andthe fabric for shirting and ladies wearshould possess high drape.
http://www.sdlatlas.com/media/uploads/highres/M213web.jpg


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Drape Meter The ASIAN Drape meter consists of a

A)Circular specimen support, B) Electric lamp to give off light, and an

exposing and developing arrangement

using light sensitive ammonia paper to

determined the area covered by the

shadow of the test specimen

C) Electric lamp to expose the Ammonia

paper to determine the area covered by

the shadow of the test specimen.

D) The paper is kept below the Acrylic

sheet on a resilient surface and exposed to

light .

E) Drape shadow is developed by

Ammonium Nitrate solution.


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Crease Recovery Angle Tester

Crease is a common

phenomenon of textilefabric. When a fabric iscrumpled it get somecreases after some time

it tries to come back toits original state.

It is not a desirablechange in appearanceof a fabric.

It is a complex effectinvolving tensile,compressive , bendingand torsional stresses.


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When a fabric is creased the resulting deformation hastwo components:-

A) Displacement of fibers and yarns

B) Stretching of fibers Lesser is the radius of curve or angle at which fabric is

bent, more likely that fibers are stretched rather thandisplaced. The magnitude of the crease recovery angle

is an indication of the ability of a fabric to recover fromincidental creasing.

The unaided recovery of fabric from creasing dependson elastic recovery of fibers.

The elastic recovery is dependent on time relatedeffects. Initial there is rapid recovery then slower rateof recovery is seen.

Textiles materials with diminishing crease resistance areWool, Silk , Acetate , Rayon, Viscose, Cotton , Linen.


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The Crease Recovery Angle Tester is used todetermine the recovery from creasing of ahorizontally folded specimen by measuring the angleof recovery.

It is applicable to fabric such as cellulosic and otherwoven apparel.

A crease is formed by applying a specified pressure to

a folded specimen in the Loading Device. On removal, the specimen is allowed to recover for a

specified time before the crease recovery angle ismeasured.

The Loading Device has provision for applying twostandard loads as per ISO standards (10N & 9.6N)

Two templates are supplied for alternative specimensizes.


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What is Abrasion and its types?

Abrasion is the process of scuffing, scratching, wearing down,marring, or rubbing away. It is an undesirable effect of

exposure to normal use or exposure to the elements.

It can be intentionally imposed in a controlled process usingan abrasive. Materials undergo mechanical wearing anddamage due to the abrasive.

It can be classified as a)Plane or flat a flat area of material isabraded.

B) Edge abrasion- the kind of abrasion which occurs at collarsand folds

C) Flex abrasion- here rubbing is accompanied by flexing andbending.

In actual service a complex mix of all types of abrasions areseen in garments as they come in contact with various typesof hard and soft surfaces.


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Abrasion Resistance

Abrasion Resistance:The ability of a material to

withstand mechanical action such as rubbing, scraping,or erosion, that tends progressively to remove materialfrom its surface.

Abrasion resistance ability helps to maintain thematerial's original appearance and structure.

The damage to fabric occurs due to mechanicalbreakdown of individual fibres. The fibres held firmly

by tension and pressure suffer intense abrasive action.The breakdown is caused by cracking of fibres at thelocation of maximum weakness.

The general weakness of fabric structure, tears ,splits

are a direct result of this individual fiber breakdown.

Th f h i b i f il


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The measurement of the resistance to abrasion of textilefabrics is very complex.

The resistance to abrasion is affected by many factors:-

A) Inherent mechanical properties of the fibres

B) Dimensions of the fibres- length ,fineness

C) Structure of the yarns- spun ,filament, textured

D) Construction & weave of the fabrics

E) Type, kind, and amount oftreatment added to the fibres,

yarns, or fabric- resin, starch, and other finishes F) Nature/kind of the abradant- stone , metal, sieve, emery

cloth

G) Action of the abradant over the specimen area abraded

can be in reciprocating , rotary or multi directional motions. H) Tension on the specimen& the pressure (9kPa (apparel)

12 kPa (upholstery) between the specimen and the abradant.

I) Backing, cleanliness of sample and instrument effect the

results.

M i d l Ab i T


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Martindale Abrasion Testeris designed to determine the abrasion resistance of textile

fabrics. Fabrics ofall types can be tested by this method.

Abrasion resistance is measured by subjecting the specimento a rubbing motion in the form of a geometric figure.

Resistance to abrasion is evaluated by comparison to visual

aids in the form of photographs or actual samples as per

ASTM-D4966,


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It consists offour testing plates on which the abrading fabricsis attached, these four testing table are mounted on the baseplate of the instrument. There is revolving plate, whichrevolves with the help of three cranks, pegs & motor.

There are four sleeves attached on the revolving plate. Thereis a set ofweights for proper pressure on the test specimens.Templates for cutting the samples & abrading cloth and theirmallet are also supplied.

Assessment of abrasion damage can be done by A) Change in general Appearance of fabric against un-

abraded specimen.

B) Number of cycles required to produce broken threads,hole or pills.

C) Loss in weight as compared to original sample

D) Change in thickness of fabric creation of fuzz or loss inthickness due to loss of fiber mass.

E) Change in other properties such as color fading , transfer

of color , air permeability , luster , strength etc.


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What is Pilling? A pill, commonly known as a bobble, is a

small ball of fibres that forms on a piece of

cloth from wear. With weaker fibres the pills fall off after

laundering, but with stronger fibres thepills remain attached to the fabric.

Pills are generally undesirable. They areconsidered unsightly[4] and are marks ofwear.

They do not interfere with thefunctionality, unless a spot with a lot ofpills turns into a hole in the fabric. Afterthe pill forms the fabric is thinner there,increasing the likelihood that a hole will

form.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pill_(textile)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pilling.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pill_(textile)


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What Causes pilling or pill formation? 1)Pilling is an natural characteristic of many man-made

and natural fibres. Some fibres, such as cotton, acrylic

and wool have a high tendency to pill, whereas other

fibres such as polyester, linen and silk do not.

2) In general longer fibres pill less because there are

fewer ends of fibres and it is harder for the longerfibres to work themselves out of the cloth.

3)Fabrics containing such fibres have a tendency to pill.

4) The pills are formed during wear and washing by theentanglement of loose fibers which protrude from the

fabric surface.All fabrics pill to some extent.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cottonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyesterhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linenhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linenhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyesterhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton


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5)Abrasion from normal wear and cleaning causes the

fibres to unravel and the loose ends ball up on the fabric

surface. The balls of fibres are usually removed during

laundering for weaker fibres6)When short staple fibers are used in the formation of

yarns, the degree of twist is important factor. Tightly

twisted yarns of short staple fibers are considered moresecure than loosely twisted yarns composed of short

staple fibers. Higher the twist of the individual fibers,

the more securely they are bound and the less likely

they are to pill.

7)Construction of the fabric is an important factor .A

very tight, compact construction, such as denim, pills

very little.


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8) Knitting - Pilling is often more noticeable on

knitted fabrics, such as sweaters. Lint often

becomes tangled in the little balls of fiber which

makes the pilling appear more obvious. A loosely

knitted fabric will show more pilling .

9) Blended fabrics-When a fabric is made of a blend

of fibres one fibre is significantly stronger than the

other, pills tend to form as the weaker fibre wears

and breaks, and the stronger fibre holds the pills

onto the cloth.

10)Finishes and fabric surface changes may exert a

large effect on pilling.

d ll


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How to avoid pilling ? Techniques used to avoid pilling include singeing the loose

fibres protruding on the surface oftextile,

Spinning the yarn with a high number oftwists per inch.Fabrics with a large number of loose fibres have a highertendency to pill.

Knitted fabrics tend to pill more than woven fabrics. This isbecause of the greater distance between yarn crossings in

knitted fabrics than in woven ones. Tight weaving -For the same reason, a tightly knitted/woven

object will pill less than a loosely knitted/ woven one.

Blended fabrics- the stronger fibre in the blend holds the pills

onto the cloth. Ring spun cotton yarns often produce less pilling than open

spinning.

Enzymes are added to some laundry detergents to removethe fibrils before they become entangled with other lint andform an unsightly pill in the laundry process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist_per_inchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitted_fabrichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitted_fabrichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist_per_inchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singe


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How to test the Fabric Pilling?

Martindale abrasion tester may be used for pilling

test of any fabric. The pilling resistance of a specific fabric in actual

wear varies more with general conditions of use

and individual wearers than in replicate fabricspecimens subjected to controlled laboratory tests.

Finishes and fabric surface changes may exert a

large effect on pilling. It is recommended thatfabrics be tested after laundering or dry-cleaning, or

both.


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Pilling tester Digi Pill

H l l ?
http://www.sdlatlas.com/product/111/ICI--M+S-Pilling-and-Snagging-Tester


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How to analyze test results?

Pills vary appreciably in size and appearance and

depend on the presence of lint and degree of color

contrast. These factors are not evaluated when pilling is

rated solely on the number of pills.

The development of pills may be accompanied by other

surface phenomena, such as loss of cover, color change,or the development of fuzz. Since the overall

acceptability of a specific fabric is dependent on both

the characteristics of the pills and the other factorsaffecting the surface appearance, it is suggested that

fabrics tested in the laboratory be evaluated

subjectively with regard to their acceptability and not

rated solely on the number of pills developed.


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The degree of fabric pilling is evaluated by

comparing the tested specimens with visual

standards, which may be actual fabrics or

photographs of fabrics, showing a range ofpilling resistance.

The observed resistance to pilling is reported

on an arbitrary scale ranging from 5 to 1 (nopilling to very severe pilling).

fabric properties 3

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