1. SEWINGBOOKCLOTHES HOME ACCESSORIES BEST TOOLSSTEP-BY-STEP TECHNIQUES CREATIVE PROJECTSALISON SMITHT H E

2. SEWINGBOOKT H E 3. SEWINGBOOKT H EALISON SMITH 4. London, New York, Melbourne,Munich, and DelhiPROJECT EDITORNorma MacMillanPROJECT DESIGNERSViv BrarNicola CollingsMandy EareyHeather McCarryPHOTOGRAPHYPeter Anderson (Tools and Techniques)Kate Whitaker (Projects)For Dorling KindersleyPROJECT EDITOR Ariane DurkinPROJECT ART EDITOR Caroline de SouzaMANAGING EDITOR Dawn HendersonMANAGING ART EDITOR Christine KeiltySENIOR JACKET CREATIVE Nicola PowlingSENIOR PRODUCTION EDITOR Jenny WoodcockSENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Mandy InnessCREATIVE TECHNICAL SUPPORT Sonia CharbonnierFirst American Edition, 2009Published in the United States byDK Publishing375 Hudson StreetNew York, New York 1001409 10 11 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1SD39704/09Copyright 2009 Dorling Kindersley LimitedAll rights reservedWithout limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no partof this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced intoa retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise),without the prior written permission of both the copyrightowner and the above publisher of this book.Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.A catalog record for this book isavailable from the Library of Congress.ISBN 9780756642808DK books are available at special discounts when purchasedin bulk for sales promotions, premiums, fund-raising, or educational use.For details, contact: DK Publishing Special Markets, 375 Hudson Street,New York, New York 10014 or SpecialSales@dk.com.Color reproduction by MDP, UKPrinted and bound in China by L.Rex Printing Co. LtdDiscover more atwww.dk.com 5. Introduction 6TOOLS 10Sewing equipment 12Fabrics 38Patterns 56TECHNIQUES 84Stitch essentials 86Darts, tucks, pleats, and gathers 104Facings and necklines 142Collars 158Waistlines, belts, and tie-backs 168Sleeves and sleeve finishes 188CONTENTSPockets 210Hems and edges 226Fasteners 248Linings and interfacings 274Professional techniques 280Mending 296PROJECTS 304Directory of fashion and softfurnishings 384Glossary 390Index, Acknowledgments,and Useful websites 394 6. INTRODUCTIONThe Sewing Book provides a comprehensive guide to all sewing techniques, whetherit be for dressmaking, tailoring, crafts, or soft furnishings. If you are new to sewing, youllfind many tips to help and guide you; if you have been sewing for many years, therewill be lots of new ideas to try. I also hope the book will be a valuable reference for allstudents studying textiles and fashion.Having sewn since my teenage years and taught dressmaking and fashion for allmy adult life, I am truly passionate about sewing. It can be so therapeuticrelaxingand satisfying. The ability to produce a unique item of clothing or something foryour home is truly rewarding.The book is divided into three sections. The first, Tools, covers all the equipmentrequired to sew, including sewing machines; gives an up-to-date guide to fabricstheir properties, care, and how to sew them; and explains how to alter patterns tomake clothes that fit you perfectly.The next section is Techniques, with over 300 different sewing techniques to try, all ina step-by-step photographic format, covering everything from basic stitches andseams through to professional tailoring techniques. Each chapter begins with avisual directory of what the techniques are used for, be it types of pleats or pockets,necklines or sleeves, or buttonhole shapes.The third section of the book is Projects, where you will find 18 items to make,ranging from quick and easy hats through to Roman blinds and kimonos. All theprojects use techniques that appear in the second section of the book.The final section includes an illustrated directory of fashion and home furnishing styles,as well as a useful glossary of sewing terms.Enjoy and happy sewing. 7. ABOUTTHISBOOKFor the photographs, we have oftenused sewing threads of a contrastcolor in order for the stitching to bevisible. I recommend that you sewwith a thread that matches yourfabric as closely as possible.All of the techniques andprojects are graded accordingto difficulty, from * (simple andstraightforward) to ***** (morecomplex and challenging). 8. Always cut fabric on the straightgrain unless the text instructsotherwise.Seam allowances throughoutare 58 in (1.5 cm) unlessotherwise indicated.On many of the fabric samples in thephotographs, neatening of the seamsis not shown because this can distractfrom the technique (seam neateningis only shown when it forms part ofthe technique). I recommend thatyou neaten your seams using yourpreferred technique.Many of the techniques mayvary from those given on yourpaper pattern, but you might liketo try an alternative technique.There are many to choose from. 9. TOOLS 10. SEWINGEQUIPMENTThe minimum equipment for any sewer is atape measure, at least two pairs of scissorsone pair for cutting fabric and the other fortrimming fabrics and threadspins andneedles, possibly a thimble, threads for sewing,a seam ripper, and a container to holdeverything. An iron and ironing board will alsobe needed. There are, however, many otherhandy gadgets that are invaluable, and forthe more enthusiastic sewer, a sewing machineand possibly a serger are essential. Whetheryou are a beginner to sewing or a sewer withmany years of experience, some of thefollowing pieces of equipment will no doubtfind their way into your work box. 11. 14TOOLSBASICSEWING KITA well-equipped sewing kit will include all of theitems shown below and many more, dependingon the type of sewing that you do regularly. It isimportant that a suitable container is used tokeep your tools together, so that they will bereadily at hand, and to keep them organized.THIMBLEThis is useful to protect the end of yourfinger when hand sewing. Thimbles areavailable in various shapes and sizes.See page 21.TAPE MEASUREEssential, not only to take bodymeasurements, but also to helpmeasure fabric, seams, etc. Chooseone that gives both imperial andmetric. A tape made of plastic is bestas it will not stretch. See page 18.ZIPPERSIt is always a good idea to keep a coupleof zippers in your sewing kit. Black,cream, and navy are the most usefulcolors. See pages 250257.THREADSA selection of threads for hand sewingand machine/serger sewing in a varietyof colors. Some threads are made ofpolyester, while others are cotton orrayon. See pages 2425.HABERDASHERYAll the odds and ends a sewer needs,including everything from buttonsand snaps to trims and elastic. Aselection of buttons and snaps inyour basic kit is useful for a quickrepair. See pages 2627.PINSNeeded by every sewer to hold thefabric together prior to sewing itpermanently. There are different typesof pins for different types of work.See page 23.SAFETY PINSIn a variety of sizes and useful foremergency repairs as well asthreading elastics. See page 23.TOOLS 12. 15NEEDLESA good selection of different typesof needles for sewing by hand.This will enable you to tackle anyhand sewing project. See page 22.SEAM RIPPERAlso called a stitch ripper, toremove any stitches that havebeen sewn in the wrong place.Various sizes of seam rippersare available. Keep the coveron when not in use to protectthe sharp point. See page 16.PIN CUSHIONTo keep your needlesand pins safe and clean.Choose one that has afabric cover and is firm.See page 23.CUTTING SHEARSRequired for cutting fabric.When buying, select a pairthat feels comfortable inyour hand and that is nottoo heavy. See page 17.SEWING GAUGEA handy gadget for smallmeasurements. The slidecan be set to measurehem depths, buttonholediameters, and much more.See page 18.BUTTONHOLE CHISELAn exceedingly sharp mini-chiselthat gives a clean cut throughmachine buttonholes. Place acutting mat underneath whenusing this tool, or you mightdamage the blade. See page 16.EMBROIDERY SCISSORSSmall pair of scissors with verysharp points, to clip threadsclose to the fabric. See page 17.BASIC SEWING KITBUILD UP YOURSEWING KITCUTTING TOOLS 1617BENT-HANDLED SHEARSCUTTING MATPAPER SCISSORSPINKING SHEARSROTARY CUTTERSNIPSTRIMMING SCISSORSMEASURING TOOLS 18FLEXIBLE RULERGRIDDED RULEROTHER TAPE MEASURESMARKING AIDS 19CHALK PENCILCHALK PROPELLING PENCILDRAFTING RULERTAILORS CHALKTRACING WHEEL ANDCARBON PAPERWATER/AIR-SOLUBLE PENUSEFUL EXTRAS 202114-IN-1 MEASUREAWLBEESWAXCOLLAR POINT TURNERDRESSMAKERS DUMMYEMERGENCY SEWING KITGLUE STICKLIQUID SEALANTLOOP TURNERPATTERN PAPERPLIERSBIAS TAPE MAKERTWEEZERSNEEDLE THREADERS 22PRESSING AIDS 2829CLAPPERIRONIRONING BOARDMINI IRONPRESSING CLOTHPRESSING MATPRESSING MITTENSEAM ROLLTAILORS HAMVELVET MAT 13. 16CUTTING MATA self-healing mat to use with therotary cutter. This mat can also beused under the buttonhole chisel.CUTTINGTOOLSThere are many types of cutting tools, but one rule appliesto all: buy good-quality products that can be re-sharpened.When choosing cutting shears, make sure that they fit the spanof your handthis means that you can comfortably openthe whole of the blade with one action, which is very importantto allow clean and accurate cutting lines. Shears and scissorsof various types are not the only cutting tools that are required,as everyone will at some time need a seam ripper to removemisplaced stitches or to unpick seams for mending. Rotarycutters that are used in conjunction with a special cutting matand ruler are invaluable for cutting multiple straight edges.TOOLSSNIPSA very useful, small,spring-loaded tool thateasily cuts the ends of thread.Not suitable for fabrics.ROTARY CUTTERAvailable in different sizes ofretractable blades. It must beused with a special cutting matto protect both blade and surface.Used to cut through many layers.BUTTONHOLE CHISELA smaller version of a carpenters chisel,to cut cleanly and accurately throughbuttonholes. As this is so sharp, it mustbe used with a self-healing cutting mat.SEAM RIPPERA sharp, pointed hookto slide under a stitch,with a small cuttingblade at the base tocut through the thread.Various sizes of seamripper are available,to cut through lightto heavyweightfabric seams.TOOLS 14. 17BENT-HANDLED SHEARSThis type of shear has a blade thatcan sit flat against the table whencutting out, due to the angle betweenthe blade and handle. Popular forcutting long, straight edges.CUTTING SHEARSThe most popular type of shear,used for cutting large pieces offabric. The length of the blade canvary from 812 in (2030 cm).PINKING SHEARS Similar in size to cutting shears,but with a blade that cuts witha zigzag pattern. Used forneatening seams anddecorative edges.TRIMMING SCISSORSThese scissors have a 4 in(10 cm) blade and are usedto trim away surplus fabricand neaten ends of machining.EMBROIDERY SCISSORSA small and very sharp scissorused to get into corners and clipthreads close to the fabric.CUTTING TOOLSPAPER SCISSORSUse these to cut aroundpattern piecescuttingpaper will dull blades offabric scissors and shears. 15. 18MEASURINGTOOLS ANDMARKING AIDSGRIDDED RULER This type of ruler is larger than a normal rulerand is marked with an inch or centimeter grid.Used together with the rotary cutter and mat,and also for marking bias strips.A huge range of tools enables a sewerto measure accurately. Choosing thecorrect tool for the task at hand isimportant, so that your measurementsare precise. The next step is to markyour work using the appropriatemarking technique or tool. Some toolsare very specific to one job, whileothers are specific to types of sewing.TOOLSMETAL TAPE FOR WINDOWS A metal tape that can be securedwhen extended is used to measurewindows and soft furnishings.SEWING GAUGE A handy small tool about 6 in (15 cm) long,marked in inches and centimeters, with a slidingtab. Use as an accurate measure for smallmeasurements such as hems.FLEXIBLE RULER A sturdy, flexible piece of plastic,this is perfect to measure armholesor curved shapes. The flexible ruleris also used when altering patterns.EXTRA-LONG TAPE This is usually twice the length ofa normal tape measure, at 10 ft(300 cm) long. Use it when makingsoft furnishings. Its also useful to helpmeasure the length of bridal trains.RETRACTABLE TAPE Very useful to have in your pursewhen shopping as you neverknow when you may needto measure something!TAPE MEASURE Available in various colors andwidths. Try to choose one that isthe same width as standard seamallowance (58 in/ 1.5 cm), becauseit will prove very useful.MeasuringtoolsThere are many tools available to help you measure everything from the width of a seam or hem,to body dimensions, to the area of a window. One of the most basic yet invaluable measuringtools is the tape measure. Be sure to keep yours in good conditiononce it stretches or getssnipped on the edges, it will no longer be accurate and should be replaced.TOOLS 16. 19 CHALK PROPELING PENCILChalk leads of differentcolors can be inserted intothis propeling pencil, makingit a very versatile marking tool.The leads can be sharpened.WATER/AIR-SOLUBLE PENThis resembles a felt marker. Marksmade can be removed from the fabricwith either a spray of water or by leavingto air-dry. Be carefulif you press overthe marks, they may become permanent.TRACING WHEEL AND CARBONPAPER These two items are used together totransfer markings from a paper patternor a design on to fabric. Not suitablefor all types of fabric though, as marksmay not be able to be removed easily.CHALK PENCILAvailable in blue, pink, andwhite. As it can be sharpenedlike a normal pencil, it willdraw accurate lines on fabric.TAILORS CHALKAlso known as French chalk,this solid piece of chalk ineither a square or triangularshape is available in a largevariety of colors. The chalkeasily brushes off fabric.MEASURING TOOLS AND MARKING AIDSDRAFTING RULER A plastic curved tool, alsocalled a pattern marking ruler,used primarily when draftingor altering patterns.MarkingaidsMarking certain parts of your work is essential, to make sure that things like pockets and darts areplaced correctly and seamlines are straight as drawn on the pattern. With some marking tools, suchas pens and a tracing wheel and carbon paper, it is always a good idea to test on a scrap of fabricfirst to make sure that the mark made will not be permanent. 17. 20LIQUID SEALANT Used to seal the cut edgeof ribbons and trims toprevent fraying. Alsouseful to seal the endsof serger stitching.USEFULEXTRASEMERGENCY SEWING KITAll the absolute essentials to fix loosebuttons or dropped hems while awayfrom your sewing machine. Take itwith you when traveling.There are many more accessories that can be purchased to help withyour sewing, and knowing which products to choose and for which jobcan be daunting. The tools shown here can be useful aids, although itdepends on the type of sewing that you dodressmaking, craft work,making soft furnishings, or running repairsas to whether you wouldneed all of them in your sewing kit.TOOLSAWLThis sharp tool is used to makeholes in fabric for eyelet insertionor for the rounded end of akeyhole buttonhole.TWEEZERSThese can be used for removingstubborn basting stitches thathave become caught in the machinestitching. An essential aid tothreading the serger.LOOP TURNER A thin metal rod witha latch at the end. Useto turn narrow fabrictubes or to threadribbons througha slotted lace.GLUE STICK Similar to a gluestick for paper, thiswill hold fabric ortrims temporarily inplace until they canbe secured withstitches. It will notdamage the fabricor make the sewingneedle sticky.BEESWAXWhen hand sewing, thiswill prevent the threadfrom tangling, and willstrengthen it. First drawthe thread through thewax, then press the waxinto the thread by runningyour fingers along it.BIAS TAPE MAKERAvailable in 12, 34, and 1 in(12, 18, and 25 mm) widths,this tool evenly folds the edgesof a fabric strip, which can thenbe pressed to make binding.TOOLS 18. 21COLLAR POINT TURNER This is excellent for pushingout those hard-to-reachcorners in collars and cuffs.DRESSMAKERS DUMMY An adjustable form that is useful whenfitting garments as it can be adjustedto personal body measurements.Excellent to help in the turning upof hemlines. Available in female, male,and childrens shapes and sizes.PATTERN PAPER This can be plain or printedwith dots and crosses atregular intervals. The papercan be used for draftingpatterns, or for alteringor tracing patterns.PLIERSSpecially designedpliers with various headsare used to attach grommets,metal snaps, and rivets.USEFUL EXTRASTHIMBLE An essential item for many sewers,to protect the middle finger fromthe end of the needle. Choosea thimble that fits your fingercomfortably as there are manyvarieties to choose from.14-IN-1 MEASUREA strange-looking tool that has14 different measurements onit. Use to turn hems or edgesaccurately. Available in bothimperial and metric. 19. 22NEEDLESAND PINSUsing the correct pin or needle for your work is so important,as the wrong choice can damage fabric or leave small holes.Needles are made from steel and pins from steel or occasionallybrass. Take care of them by keeping pins in a pin cushion andneedles in a needle caseif kept together in a small container,they could become scratched and blunt.TOOLSNeedles andthreadersNeedles are available for all types of fabrics and projects. A good selection of needles shouldbe at hand at all times, whether it be for emergency mending of tears, or sewing on buttons, oradding trims to special-occasion wear. With a special needle threader, inserting the threadthrough the eye of the needle is simplicity itself.SHARPSA general-purpose hand-sewing needle, with a small, round eye.Available in sizes 1 to 12. For most hand sewing use a size 6 to 9.CREWELAlso known as an embroidery needle, a long needle with a long, ovaleye that is designed to take multiple strands of embroidery thread.MILLINERS OR STRAWA very long, thin needle with a small, round eye. Good for hand sewingand basting as it doesnt damage fabric. A size 8 or 9 is most popular.QUILTING OR BETWEENSSimilar to a milliners needle but very short, with a small, round eye.Perfect for fine hand stitches and favored by quilters.BEADINGLong and extremely fine, to sew beads and sequins to fabric. As it isprone to bending, keep it wrapped in tissue when not in use.DARNERSA long, thick needle that is designed to be used with wool or thickyarns and to sew through multiple layers.TAPESTRYA medium-length, thick needle with a blunt end and a long eye. Foruse with wool yarn in tapestry. Also for darning in serger threads.CHENILLEThis looks like a tapestry needle but it has a sharp point. Use withthick or wool yarns for darning or heavy embroidery.BODKINA strange-looking needle with a blunt end and a large, fat eye. Useto thread elastic or cord. There are larger eyes for thicker yarns.SELF-THREADING NEEDLEA needle that has a double eye. The thread is placed in the upper eyethrough the gap, then pulled into the eye below for sewing.WIRE NEEDLE THREADERA handy gadget, especiallyuseful for needles with smalleyes. Also helpful in threadingsewing-machine needles.AUTOMATIC NEEDLE THREADERThis threader is operated with asmall lever. The needle, eye down,is inserted and the thread iswrapped around.TOOLS 20. 23There is a wide variety of pins available, in differing lengths and thicknesses, and ranging from plainhousehold pins to those with colored balls or flower shapes on their ends. PinsQUILTINGA long pin of medium thickness, designed tohold multiple layers of fabric together.PEARL-HEADEDLonger than household pins, with a coloredpearl head. They are easy to pick up and use.STRAIGHTGeneral-purpose pins of a medium length andthickness. Can be used for all types of sewing.LACE OR BRIDALA fine, short pin designed to be used with finefabrics, such as those for bridal gowns,because the pin will not damage the fabric.FLOWERHEADA long pin of medium thickness with a flat,flower-shaped head. It is designed to be pressedover, as the head lays flat on the fabric.SAFETY PINSAvailable in a huge variety of sizes and madeeither of brass or stainless steel. Used forholding two or more layers together.PIN CUSHIONTo keep pins clean and sharp. Choose a fabric-cover:a foam cushion may blunt pins.DRESSMAKERSSimilar to a household pin in shape andthickness, but slightly longer. These are thepins for beginners to choose.EXTRA FINEExtra long and extra fine, this pin is favored bymany professional dressmakers, because it iseasy to use and doesnt damage finer fabrics.GLASS-HEADEDSimilar to pearl-headed pins but shorter. Theyhave the advantage that they can be pressedover without melting.STAPLEA strong pin that looks like a very large staple,used for pinning loose covers to furniture. Takecare as staple pins are very sharp.SPIRALShaped like a spiral with a very sharp point at oneend to enable it to be twisted in and out easily.Used to secure loose covers to furniture.NEEDLES AND PINS 21. 24THREADS There are so many threads available and knowing which onesto choose can be confusing. There are specialist threadsdesigned for special tasks, such as machine embroidery orquilting. Threads also vary in fiber content, from pure cottonto rayon to polyester. Some threads are very fine, while othersare thick and coarse. Failure to choose the correct threadcan spoil your project and lead to problems with the stitchquality of the sewing machine or serger.TOOLSPOLYESTER ALL-PURPOSE THREADA cotton-coated polyester thread that has a very slight give,making it suitable to sew all types of fabrics and garments,as well as soft furnishings. The most popular type of thread.COTTON THREADA 100% cotton thread. Smooth and firm, this is designed tobe used with cotton fabrics and is much favored by quilters.SILK THREADA sewing thread made from 100% silk. Used for machiningdelicate silk garments. It is also used for basting or temporarystitching in areas that are to be pressed, such as jacket collars,BUTTON THREAD because it can be removed without leaving an imprint.A thicker polyester thread used for decorative top-stitching andbuttonholes. Also for hand sewing buttons on thicker fabricsand some soft furnishings.ELASTIC THREADA thin, round elastic thread normally used on the bobbinof the sewing machine for stretch effects such as shirring.TOOLS 22. 25EMBROIDERY THREADOften made from a rayon yarn for shine. This is a finerthread designed for machine embroidery. Available onmuch larger reels for economy.SERGER THREADA dull yarn on a larger reel designed to be used on the serger.This type of yarn is normally not strong enough to use on thesewing machine.METALLIC THREADA rayon and metal thread for decorative machining andmachine embroidery. This thread usually requires a specialistsewing-machine needle.THREADS 23. 26HABERDASHERYITEMSTOOLSThe term haberdashery covers allthe bits and pieces that sewerstend to need, for examplefasteners such as buttons, snaps,hooks and eyes, and Velcro.But haberdashery also includeselastics, ribbons, trims of all types,and boning.Buttons Buttons can be made from almost anythingshell, bone, coconut, nylon, plastic, brass,silver. They can be any shape, from geometric to abstract to animal shapes. A button mayhave a shank or have holes on the surface to enable it to be attached to fabric.Other fasteners Hooks and eyes (below left), snaps (below center), and Velcro (below right) all comein a wide variety of forms, differing in size, shape, and color. Some hooks and eyes aredesigned to be seen, while snaps and Velcro are intended to be hidden fasteners.TOOLS 24. 27Trims, decorations, fringes,and braidsHABERDASHERY ITEMSDecorative finishing touchesfringes, strips of sequins, braids, feathers,pearls, bows, flowers, and beadscan dress up a garment, embellish abag, or personalize soft furnishings. Some are designed to be insertedinto seams, while others are surface-mounted.RibbonsFrom the narrowest strips to wide swathes, ribbons are made froma variety of yarns, such as nylon, polyester, and cotton. They can beprinted or plain and may feature metallic threads or wired edges.ElasticElastic is available in many forms, from very narrow, round cord to widestrips (below left). It may have buttonhole slots in it (below right) or evenhave a decorative edge.Boning You can buy various types of boning in varying widths. Polyester boning (bottom left), used in boned bodices, canbe sewn through, while nylon boning (bottom right), also used on boned bodices, has to be inserted into a casing.Specialist metal boning (below left and right), which may be either straight or spiral, is for corsets and bridal wear. 25. 28PRESSINGAIDSSuccessful sewing relies on successful pressing.Without the correct pressing equipment,sewing can look too homemade whereasif correctly pressed, any sewn item will havea neat, professional finish.TOOLSIRON A good-quality steam ironis a wonderful asset. Choosea reasonably heavy iron thathas steam and a shot ofsteam facility.MINI IRON Useful to get into smallcorners and gathers.Use in conjunction withthe pressing mat.PRESSING MATA heat-resistant mat forpressing small items.TOOLS 26. 29TAILORS HAMA ham-shaped pressing cushion thatis used to press darts and the shapeinto curves of collars and shoulders,and in making tailored garments.SEAM ROLLThis tubular pressing aid is used to pressseams open on fabrics that mark, as theiron only touches the seam on top of theroll. Also used for sleeve and pant seams.PRESSING MITTEN Slips on to your hand toenable more control overwhere you are pressing.PRESSING CLOTH Choose a cloth made from silkorganza or muslin as you can seethrough it. The cloth will stopthe iron from marking fabric andprevent burning delicate fabrics.CLAPPERA wooden aid that pounds creases into aheavy fabric after steaming. The top sectionis used to help press collar seams and points.VELVET MATA pressing mat with a tufted side to aidthe pressing of pile fabrics, such as velvet.IRONING BOARDEssential to iron on.Make sure the boardis height-adjustable.PRESSING AIDS 27. 30SEWINGMACHINEA sewing machine will quickly speed up any job, whetherit be a quick repair or a huge home-sewing project.Most sewing machines today are aided by computertechnology, which enhances stitch quality and ease ofuse. Always spend time trying out a sewing machinebefore you buy, to really get a feel for it.TOOLSTHREADING GUIDESMarkings to help guide youin threading the machine.TENSION DIALTo control the stitch tension onthe upper thread, i.e. how fastthe thread feeds through thesewing machine.AUTOMATIC NEEDLE THREADERA pull-down gadget to aid threadingthe machine needle.PRESSER FOOTTo hold the fabric in placewhile stitching. Various feetcan be used here to aiddifferent sewing processes.See pages 3233.DOG FEEDSThese metal teeth gripthe fabric and feed itthrough the machine.NEEDLEThe machine needle. Replaceregularly to ensure good stitchquality. See page 32.NEEDLE PLATEA transparent removablecover reveals the bobbin.This plate is gridded tohelp stitch seams ofvarious widths.REMOVABLE FREE ARMThis section of the machine will pullaway to give a narrow work bed thatcan be used when inserting sleeves. Italso contains a useful storage section.SHANKTo hold the variousfeet in place.BUTTONHOLE SENSORA pull-down sensor thatautomatically judges the sizeof the buttonhole requiredto fit the button chosen.TOOLS 28. 31BOBBIN WINDERWinds the thread from thespool on to the bobbin,keeping it under tension.See page 32.BALANCE WHEELThis can be turned towardyou to move the needle upor down manually.LCD SCREENAn illuminated screenthat indicates whichstitch you are using.TOUCH BUTTONSUse these to change the typeof stitch you are using and toincrease and decrease the sizeand width of stitch.TOUCH BUTTONSThese quickly select themost popular stitchessuch as zigzag andbuttonhole.STITCH LIBRARYAll the different stitchesthis machine can stitch.You just have to key inthe number.SPOOL HOLDERTo hold your sewingthread in place.SPEED CONTROLA slide, to control thespeed of your machine.BUTTONSTo provide variousfunctions, such asreverse, lockingstitch, and needle-in.SEWING MACHINE 29. 32TOOLSSewing-machineaccessoriesMany accessories can be purchased for your sewing machine to make certainsewing processes so much easier. There are different machine needles not onlyfor different fabrics, but also for different types of threads. There is also a huge numberof sewing-machine feet, and new feet are constantly coming on to the market. Thoseshown here are some of the most popular.PLASTIC BOBBINThe bobbin is for the lower thread. Somemachines take plastic bobbins, others metal.Always check which kind of bobbin yourmachine uses as the incorrect choice cancause stitch problems.MACHINE NEEDLESThere are different types of sewing machine needlesto cope with different fabrics. Machine needles aresized from 60 to 100, a 60 being a very fine needle.There are special needles for machine embroideryand also for metallic threads.METAL BOBBINAlso known as a universal bobbin, this is usedon many types of sewing machines. Be sure tocheck that your machine needs a metal bobbinbefore you buy.OVEREDGE FOOTA foot that runs along the raw edge of thefabric and holds it stable while an overedgestitch is worked.FREE EMBROIDERY OR DARNING FOOTA foot designed to be used when the dog feedson the machine are lowered. This enables afree motion stitch to be worked.EMBROIDERY FOOTA clear plastic foot with a groove underneaththat allows linear machine embroidery stitchesto pass under.BUTTONHOLE FOOTThis extends and the button is placed in theback of the foot. The machine will stitch abuttonhole to fit due to the buttonhole sensor.ROLLED HEM FOOTThis foot rolls the fabric while stitching witha straight stitch or a zigzag stitch.BLIND HEM FOOTUse this foot in conjunction with the blindhem stitch to create a neat hemming stitch.TOOLS 30. 33WALKING FOOTThis odd-looking foot walks across the fabric,so that the upper layer of fabric does not pushforward. Great for matching checkers andstripes and also for difficult fabrics, like quilts.PIN TUCK FOOTA foot with grooves underneath to allowmultiple pin tucks to be sewn.SEWING MACHINERIBBON FOOTA foot that will feed either one or two ribbonsevenly under the machine needle to ensureaccurate stitching.ZIPPER FOOTThis foot fits to either the right or left-handside of the needle to enable you to stitchclose to a zipper.INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOTA foot that is used to insert a concealed zipperthe foot holds open the coils of the zipper,enabling you to stitch behind them.PIPING FOOTA deep groove in this foot allows a pipingcord to fit underneath, enabling close stitchingto the cord.BEADING FOOT, WIDEBeads on a string will fit under the foot, whichhas a wide groove, and they can then be zigzagstitched over.BEADING FOOT, NARROWThis foot has a narrow groove and is used toattach small beads or decorative cords.ULTRA-GLIDE FOOTA foot made from Teflon that glides over thefabric. Useful for synthetic leathers. 31. 34SERGER This machine is often used in conjunction with thesewing machine as it gives a very professionalfinish to your work. The serger has two upperthreads and two lower threads (the loopers), witha knife that removes the edge of the fabric. Usedextensively for neatening the edges of fabric, itcan also be used for construction of stretch knits.TOOLSSerger accessoriesYou can purchase additional feet for the serger. Some willspeed up your sewing by performing tasks such as gathering.SERGER NEEDLESThe serger uses a ballpoint needle, which createsa large loop in the thread for the loopers to catch andproduce a stitch. If a normal sewing machine needleis used, it could damage the serger.GATHERING FOOTThis gadget enables one layer of fabric to be gatheredand stitched to a non-gathered layer, all in oneapplication. Especially suitable for net and fine fabrics.SERGER STITCHES3-THREAD SERGERSTITCH4-THREAD SERGERSTITCHCORDING FOOTA foot with a coil on the one side through which a thincord or fishing line is fed. Use in conjunction with a rolledhem setting for decorative effects.As the serger works, the threads wrap around the edgeto give a professional finish. The 3-thread stitch is used primarilyfor neatening. A 4-thread stitch can also be used for neatening,as well as for construction due to its having the extra thread.SERGER FOOTThe standard foot used for most processes.TOOLS 32. 35THREAD GUIDESTo guide the threadfrom the reels.BALANCE WHEELThis can be turnedmanually backwardto disengage a stitch.THREAD GUIDESTo guide the threadthrough the machine.KNIVESThe two knivesthat cut away thefabric edge.WASTE CATCHERA removable tray thatcatches the edge of thefabric as it is trimmed off.TENSION DIALSThere are four tension dials,one for each thread.STITCH LENGTHTo set the size of themachine stitch.DIFFERENTIAL FEEDThis dial controls theratio between the twolayers of fabric feedingunder the foot. 33. 36A machine that does not sew but embroiders, thisenables you to produce embellished clothing orhome wares. Computer-controlled, the machinehas plenty of built-in embroidery designs and thereare many more designs that can be purchased touse with it. The machine works best with specialembroidery threads and bobbin threads.TOOLSEMBROIDERYMACHINEA gridded template on thebottom of the embroidery hoopaids placement of the design.Here are some examples of the many types of design that canbe stitched out, to personalize and embellish clothing andaccessories as well as place mats, tablecloths, serviettes, pillows,baby blankets, and many other items.EmbroiderymachineaccessoriesHoops of varying shapes and sizes fit on to the machinecarriage to enable the embroidery to be stitched.EMBROIDERY DESIGNSOnce the fabric is stretched inthe hoop, the ring is presseddown and secured. The fabricmust be held taut.TOOLS 34. 37SPOOL HOLDERTo hold the machineembroidery thread. BOBBIN WINDERTo wind the bobbins. Anembroidery machine requiresbobbin thread, which is aslightly finer thread.LCD SCREENA touch screen from which youchoose your design andprogram the machine. Thescreen allows you to build upyour own design by combiningdifferent components.SCISSOR CUTTERThis button cuts theembroidery threads whenyou need to change colors orhave completed your design.NEEDLE AND FOOTThe machine needle andembroidery foot.AUTOMATIC NEEDLE THREADERTo aid threading the machine needle.HOOPThe embroidery hoop in position.START/STOP BUTTONThis machine has nofoot control as it willsew on its own! Usethis button to startand stop it.TENSION DIALTo control the tensionin the upper thread.EMBROIDERY MACHINE 35. FABRICSFabric is made from fibers. Each fiberis like a small hair. A great number aretwisted together to make a yarn,which can then be woven or knittedinto fabric. Whether making clothes,soft furnishings, or crafts, its importantto choose the right fabric for yourproject. When buying, look at thefabric carefully in the store. Feel it,and crease it in your hand. Then askyourself if it will be suitable. You alsoneed to consider the width of thefabric, the cost, and the caresomehave to be dry-cleaned. 36. 40TOOLSWoolfabricsA natural fiber, wool comes primarily from sheepAustralian merino sheeps wool is considered tobe the best. However, we also get wool fibers from goats (mohair and cashmere), rabbits (angora),camels (camel hair), and llamas (alpaca). A wool fiber is either short and fluffy, when it is known asa woollen yarn, or it is long, strong, and smooth, when it is called worsted. The term virgin (or new)wool denotes wool fibers that are being used for the first time. Wool may be reprocessed or reusedand is then often mixed with other fibers.CASHMEREWool from the Kashmir goat,and the most luxurious of all thewools. A soft yet hard-wearingfabric available in differentweights.Cutting out: as cashmere oftenhas a slight pile, use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger stitch or pinking shears (azigzag stitch would curl the edgeof the seam)Thread: a silk thread is ideal, ora polyester all-purpose threadNeedle: machine size 12/14,depending on the thicknessof the fabric; sharps forhand sewingPressing: steam iron on a steamsetting, with a pressing cloth andseam rollUse for: jackets, coats, menswear; knitted cashmere yarn forsweaters, cardigans, underwearCHALLISA fine wool fabric, made from aworsted yarn that has an unevensurface texture. Challis is oftenprinted as well as plain.Cutting out: a nap layout isnot required unless the fabricis printedSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch; a run andfell seam can also be usedThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/12;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a steamsetting, with a pressing cloth;fabric will stretch while warmso handle with careUse for: dresses, jackets,garments with pleating ordraping detailCREPEA soft fabric made from a twistedyarn, which is what produces theuneven surface. It is importantto preshrink this fabric prior touse by giving it a good steaming,because it will have stretchedon the bolt and it is prone toshrinkage.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger (a zigzag stitch may curlthe edge of the seam)Thread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12; sharpsor milliners for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; a pressing cloth is notalways requiredUse for: all types of clothingPROPERTIES OF WOOL comfortable to wear in all climates as it is available in manyweights and weaves warm in the winter and cool in the summer, because it willbreathe with your body absorbs moisture better than other natural fiberswill absorbup to 30 percent of its weight before it feels wet flame-resistant relatively crease-resistant ideal to tailor as it can be easily shaped with steam often blended with other fibers to reduce the cost of fabric felts if exposed to excessive heat, moisture, and pressure will be bleached by sunlight with prolonged exposure can be damaged by mothsTOOLS Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 37. 41TARTANAn authentic tartan belongsto a Scottish clan, and eachhas its own unique design thatcan only be used by that clan.The fabric is made using a twillweave from worsted yarns.Cutting out: check the designfor even/uneven check as itmay need a nap layout or evena single layer layoutSeams: plain, matching thepattern and neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; may require a pressingcloth, so test firstUse for: traditionally kilts, butthese days also skirts, pants,jackets, soft furnishingsFLANNELA wool with a lightly brushedsurface, featuring either a plainor twill weave. Used in the pastfor underwear.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch or HongKong finishThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting with a pressing cloth; usea seam roll as the fabric is proneto markingUse for: coats, jackets, skirts,mens wearMOHAIRFrom the wool of the Angoragoat. A long, straight, and verystrong fiber that produces ahairy cloth.Cutting out: use a nap layout,with the fibers brushing downthe pattern pieces in the samedirection, from neck to hemSeams: plain, neatened withserger or pinking shearsThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; stroke the iron overthe wool, moving in the directionof the napUse for: jackets, coats, menswear, soft furnishings; knittedmohair yarns for sweatersGABARDINEA hard-wearing suiting fabricwith a distinctive weave.Gabardine often has a sheenand is prone to shine. It canbe difficult to handle as it isspringy and frays badly.Cutting out: a nap layoutis advisable as the fabric hasa sheenSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethread or 100% cotton threadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; use just the toe of theiron and a silk organza pressingcloth as the fabric will mark andmay shineUse for: mens wear, jackets,pantsWOOL FABRICSCutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 38. 42TOOLSTOOLSTWEED, TRADITIONALA rough fabric with a distinctivewarp and weft, usually indifferent colors, and oftenforming a small check pattern.Traditional tweed is associatedwith the English countryside.Cutting out: a nap layout isnot required unless the fabricfeatures a checkSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch;can also be neatened withpinking shearsThread: polyester all-purposethread or 100% cotton threadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a steamsetting; a pressing cloth may notbe requiredUse for: jackets, coats, skirts,mens wear, soft furnishingsVENETIANA wool with a satin weave,making a luxurious, expensivefabric.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester allpurposethread or 100% cotton threadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a steamsetting with a silk organza clothto avoid shine; use a seam rollunder the seams to prevent themfrom showing throughUse for: jackets, coats,mens wearWOOL WORSTEDA light and strong cloth, madefrom good-quality thin, firmfilament fibers. Always steamprior to cutting out as the fabricmay shrink slightly after havingbeen stretched around a bolt.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch orHong Kong finishThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14,depending on fabric; millinersor sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting, with a pressing cloth;use a seam roll to prevent theseam from showing throughUse for: skirts, jackets, coats,pantsTWEED, MODERNA mix of chunky and nobblywool yarns. Modern tweed isoften found in contemporarycolor palettes as well as plain,and with interesting fibers inthe weft such as metallics andpaper. It is much favored byfashion designers.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch; thefabric is prone to frayingThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; a pressing cloth maynot be requiredUse for: jackets, coats; alsoskirts, dresses, soft furnishings Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 39. 43CottonfabricsCOTTON FABRICSOne of the most versatile and popular of all fabrics, cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seed pods,or bolls, of the cotton plant. It is thought that cotton fibers have been in use since ancient times. Today, theworlds biggest producers of cotton include the United States, India, and countries in the Middle East. Cottonfibers can be filament or staple, with the longest and finest used for top-quality bed linen. Cotton clothing iswidely worn in warmer climates as the fabric will keep you cool.PROPERTIES OF COTTON absorbs moisture well and carries heat away from the body stronger wet than dry does not build up static electricity dyes well prone to shrinkage unless it has been treated will deteriorate from mildew and prolonged exposure to sunlight creases easily soils easily, but launders wellBRODERIE ANGLAISEA fine, plain-weave cotton thathas been embroidered in sucha way as to make small holes.Usually white or a pastel color.Cutting out: may need layout toplace embroidery at hem edgeSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch; a Frenchseam can also be usedThread: polyester allpurposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on acotton setting; a pressing clothis not requiredUse for: baby clothes, summerskirts, blousesCHAMBRAYA light cotton that has a coloredwarp thread and white weftthread. Chambray can alsobe found as a check ora striped fabric.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth is notrequiredUse for: blouses, mens shirts,childrens wearCALICOA plain weave fabric that isusually unbleached and quitestiff. Available in many differentweights, from very fine toextremely heavy.Cutting out: use a regularlayoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester allpurposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/14,depending on thickness ofthread; sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a steamsetting; a pressing cloth is notrequiredUse for: toiles (test garments),soft furnishingsCHINTZA floral print or plain cottonfabric with a glazed finish thatgives it a sheen. It has a closeweave and is often treated toresist dirt.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch; a run andfell seam can also be usedThread: polyester all-purposethread or 100% cotton threadNeedle: machine size 14;milliners for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth may berequired due to sheen on fabricUse for: soft furnishingsCutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 40. 44TOOLSTOOLSCRINKLE COTTONLooks like an exaggerated versionof seersucker (see p46), withcreases added by a heat process.Crinkle cotton may require carefullaundering as it often has to betwisted into shape when wet toput the creases back in.Cutting out: a nap layout isnot required unless the fabricis printedSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12;milliners for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; take care not to pressout the crinklesUse for: blouses, dresses,childrens wearCORDUROYA soft pile fabric with distinctivestripes (known as wales or ribs)woven into it. The name dependson the size of the ribs: baby orpin cord has extremely fine ribs;needle cord has slightly thickerribs; corduroy has 1012 ribs per1 in (2.5 cm); and elephant orjumbo cord has thick, heavy ribs.Cutting out: use a nap layout withthe pile on the corduroy, brushingthe pattern pieces from neck tohem, to give depthSeams: plain, stitched using awalking foot and neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/16;sharps or milliners forhand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; use a seam roll under theseams with a pressing clothUse for: pants, skirts, mens wearDAMASKA cotton that has been woven ona jacquard loom to produce afabric usually with a floral patternin a self color. May have a sheento the surface.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethread or 100% cotton threadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth may berequired if the fabric has a sheenUse for: home furnishings;colored jacquards forjackets, skirtsDENIMNamed after Nmes in France.A hard-wearing twill-weave fabric(see p53) with a colored warp andwhite weft, usually made intojeans. Available in various weightsand often mixed with an elasticthread for stretch. Denim isusually blue, but is also availablein a variety of other colors.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: run and fell ortop-stitched plainThread: polyester all-purposethread with top-stitching threadfor detail top-stitchingNeedle: machine size 14/16;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth shouldnot be requiredUse for: jeans, jackets,childrens wear Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 41. 45JERSEYA fine cotton yarn that has beenknitted to give stretch, makingthe fabric very comfortable towear. Jersey will also drape well.Cutting out: a nap layout isrecommendedSeams: 4-thread serger stitch; orplain seam stitched with a smallzigzag stitch and then seamallowances stitched togetherwith a zigzagThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14; aballpoint needle may be requiredfor serger and for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting as jersey may shrink ona cotton settingUse for: underwear, drapeydresses, leisurewear, beddingGINGHAMA fresh, two-color cotton fabricthat features checkers of varioussizes. A plain weave made byhaving groups of white andcolored warp and weft threads.Cutting out: usually an evencheck, so nap layout is notrequired but recommended;pattern will need matchingSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/12;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth shouldnot be requiredUse for: childrens wear, dresses,shirts, home furnishingsDRILLA hard-wearing twill or plain-weavefabric with the same colorwarp and weft. Drill frays badlyon the cut edges.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: run and fell; or plain,neatened with serger or zigzagstitchThread: polyester all-purposethread with top-stitching threadfor detail top-stitchingNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth is notrequiredUse for: mens wear, casualjackets, pantsMADRASA plaid fabric made from a finecotton yarn, usually from India.Often found in bright colors.An inexpensive cotton fabric.Cutting out: use a nap layoutand match the patternSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on acotton setting; a pressing clothis not requiredUse for: shirts, skirts, homefurnishingsCOTTON FABRICSCutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 42. 46TOOLSTOOLSSHIRTINGA closely woven, fine cotton, withcolored warp and weft yarnsmaking stripes or checks.Cutting out: use a nap layout iffabric has uneven stripesSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch; a run andfell seam can also be usedThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12; millinersfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth is notrequiredUse for: ladies and mens shirtsTERRY CLOTHA cotton fabric with loops on thesurface; top-quality terry cloth hasloops on both sides. It is highlyabsorbent. Wash before use topreshrink and make it fluffy.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: 4-thread serger stitch; orplain seam, neatened with sergeror zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a pressing cloth is notrequiredUse for: bathrobes, beachwearVELVETA pile-weave fabric, made by usingan additional yarn that is then cutto produce the pile. Difficult tohandle and can be easily damagedif seams have to be unpicked.Cutting out: use a nap layout withthe pile brushing up from hem toneck, to give depth of colorSeams: plain, stitched using awalking foot (stitch all seams fromhem to neck) and neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; millinersfor hand sewingPressing: only if you have to; usea velvet board, a bit of steam, toeof iron, and silk organza clothUse for: jackets, coatsSEERSUCKERA woven cotton that has abubbly appearance woven intoit, due to stripes of puckers. Donot over-press, or the surfaceeffect will be damaged.Cutting out: use a nap layout,due to puckered surface effectSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/12;milliners for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting (be careful not to pressout the wrinkles)Use for: summer clothing, skirts,shirts, childrens wearMUSLINA fine, plain, open-weave cotton.Can be found in colors but usuallysold a natural/unbleached orwhite. Makes great pressing clothsand interlinings. It is a good ideato wash prior to use.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: 4-thread serger stitch; orplain seam, neatened with sergeror zigzag stitch; a French seamcould also be usedThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11; millinersfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting; a cloth is not requiredUse for: curtaining and otherhousehold uses, as well as testpatterns or toiles Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 43. 47SilkfabricsSILK FABRICSOften referred to as the queen of all fabrics, silk is made from the fibers of the silkworms cocoon. Thisstrong and luxurious fabric dates back thousands of years to its first development in China, and thesecret of silk production was well protected by the Chinese until 300AD. Silk fabrics can be very fineor thick and chunky. They need careful handling as some silk fabrics can be easily damaged.PROPERTIES OF SILK keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer absorbs moisture and dries quickly dyes well, producing deep, rich colors static electricity can build up and fabric may cling will fade in prolonged strong sunlight prone to shrinkage best dry-cleaned weaker when wet than dry may water-markCHIFFONA very strong and very fine,transparent silk with a plainweave. Will gather and rufflewell. Difficult to handle.Cutting out: place tissue paperunder the fabric and pin thefabric to the tissue, cuttingthrough all layers if necessary;use extra-fine pinsSeams: FrenchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 9/11; finemilliners for hand sewingPressing: dry iron on a woolsettingUse for: special-occasion wear,over-blousesDUCHESSE SATINA heavy, expensive satin fabricused almost exclusively forspecial-occasion wear.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, with pinked edgesThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14;milliners for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting with a pressing cloth; usea seam roll under the seams toprevent shadowingUse for: special-occasion wearCREPE DE CHINEMedium weight, with an unevensurface due to the twisted silkyarn used. Drapes well and oftenused on bias-cut garments.Cutting out: if to be bias-cut, usea single layer layout; otherwiseuse a nap layoutSeams: a seam for a difficultfabric or FrenchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11; millinersor betweens for hand sewingPressing: dry iron on a woolsettingUse for: blouses, dresses,special-occasion wearDUPIONSimilar to hand-woven dupion(see page 48) but woven usinga much smoother yarn to reducethe amount of nubbly bits inthe weft.Cutting out: use a nap layout toprevent shadowingSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12; millinersfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting, with a pressing cloth asfabric may water-markUse for: dresses, skirts, jackets,special-occasion wear, softfurnishingsCutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 44. 48TOOLSTOOLSGEORGETTEA soft, filmy silk fabric that hasa slight transparency. Does notcrease easily.Cutting out: place tissue paperunder the fabric and pin fabric totissue, cutting through all layersif necessary; use extra-fine pinsSeams: FrenchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11; millinersfor hand sewingPressing: dry iron on a woolsetting to avoid damage by steamUse for: special-occasion wear,loose-fitting overshirtsHABUTAIOriginally from Japan, a smooth,fine silk that can have a plain ora twill weave. Fabric is often usedfor silk painting.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: FrenchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 9/11; veryfine milliners or betweens forhand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsettingUse for: lining, shirts, blousesMATKAA silk suiting fabric with anuneven-looking yarn. Matkacan be mistaken for linen.Cutting out: use a nap layout assilk may shadowSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch orHong Kong finishThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14;milliners for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting with a pressing cloth;a seam roll is recommendedto prevent the seams fromshowing throughUse for: dresses, jackets, pantsDUPION, HAND-WOVENThe most popular of all the silks.A distinctive weft yarn with manynubbly bits. Available in hundredsof colors. Easy to handle, but itdoes fray badly.Cutting out: use a nap layout asthe fabric shadowsSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12; millinersfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting, with a pressing cloth toavoid water-markingUse for: dresses, special-occasionwear, jackets, soft furnishings Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 45. 49SILK AND WOOL MIXA fabric made by mixing wooland silk fibers or wool and silkyarns. The fabric made maybe fine in quality or thick, likea coating.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/14,depending on fabric; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; seams will require somesteam to make them lie flatUse for: suits, skirts, pants,coatsTAFFETAA smooth, plain-weave fabricwith a crisp appearance. It makesa rustling sound when worn. Canrequire special handling anddoes not wear well.Cutting out: use a nap layout,with extra-fine pins in seams asthey will mark the fabricSeams: plain; fabric may pucker,so sew from the hem upward,keeping the fabric taut under themachine; neaten with sergeror pinking shearsThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11;milliners or betweens forhand sewingPressing: cool iron, with a seamroll under the seamsUse for: special-occasion wearSATINA silk with a satin weave thatcan be very light to quite heavyin weight.Cutting out: use a nap layout ina single layer as fabric is slipperySeams: French; on thicker satins,a seam for a difficult fabricThread: polyester all-purposethread (not silk thread as itbecomes weak with wear)Needle: machine size 11/12;milliners or betweens forhand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting, with a pressing cloth asfabric may water-markUse for: blouses, dresses,special-occasion wearORGANZAA sheer fabric with a crispappearance that will creaseeasily.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: French or a seam fora difficult fabricThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11;milliners or betweens forhand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting; a pressing cloth shouldnot be requiredUse for: sheer blouses, shrugs,interlining, interfacingSILK FABRICSCutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 46. 50TOOLSTOOLSLinen fabrics Linen is a natural fiber that is derived from the stem of the flax plant. It is available in a varietyof qualities and weights, from very fine linen to heavy suiting weights. Coarser than cotton, it issometimes woven with cotton as well as being mixed with silk.PROPERTIES OF LINEN cool and comfortable to wear absorbs moisture well shrinks when washed does not ease well has a tendency to wrinkle prone to fraying resists moths but is damaged by mildewCOTTON AND LINEN MIXTwo fibers may have been mixedtogether in the yarn or may havemixed warp and weft yarns. Ithas lots of texture in the weave.Silk and linen mix is treated inthe same way.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: a steam iron on asteam setting, with a silk organzapressing clothUse for: summer-weight jackets,tailored dressesPRINTED LINENSMany linens today feature printsor even embroidery. The fabricmay be light to medium weight,with a smooth yarn that hasfew slubs.Cutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting (steam is required toremove creases)Use for: dresses, skirtsSUITING LINENA heavier yarn is used to producea linen suitable for suits for menand women. Can be a firm, tightweave or a looser weave.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or a zigzag stitch andsharps hand-sewing needleThread: polyester all-purposethread with a top-stitch threadfor top-stitchingNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsetting (steam is required toremove creases)Use for: mens and womenssuits, pants, coatsDRESS-WEIGHT LINENA medium-weight linen with aplain weave. The yarn is oftenuneven, which causes slubs inthe weave.Cutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch ora Hong Kong finishThread: polyester all-purposethread with a top-stitchingthread for top-stitchingNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a cottonsettingUse for: dresses, pants, skirts Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 47. 51LEATHER AND SUEDE/MANMADE FABRICSLeather and suede Leather and suede are natural fabrics derived from either pigskin or cowhide.Depending on the curing process that has been used, the skin will be either a suedeor a leather. The fabrics require special handling.LEATHER AND SUEDEThe pattern pieces cannotbe pinned on to leatherand suedeyou must drawaround them using tailorschalk. After cutting out,the chalk will rub off andnot damage the skin.Cutting out: a completepattern is required, left andright-hand halves; usea nap layout for suede, asit will brush one waySeams: lapped or plain,using a walking foot or anultra glide foot; neateningis not requiredThread: polyesterall-purpose threadNeedle: machine size 14(a special leather needlemay actually damage theskin); hand sewing is notrecommendedPressing: Avoid steam whenironing; set the iron on therayon setting and use a100% cotton cloth betweenthe iron and leatherUse for: skirts, pants,jackets, soft furnishingsManmadefabricsThe term manmade applies to any fabric that is not 100 percent natural. Many of these fabrics havebeen developed over the last hundred years, which means they are new compared to natural fibers.Some manmade fabrics are made from natural elements mixed with chemicals while others are madeentirely from non-natural substances. The properties of manmade fabrics vary from fabric to fabric.ACETATEIntroduced in 1924, acetateis made from cellulose andchemicals. The fabric has aslight shine and is widely usedfor linings. Acetate can also bewoven into fabrics such asacetate taffeta, acetate satin,and acetate jersey.Properties of acetate: dyes well can be heat-set into pleats washes wellCutting out: use a nap layoutdue to sheen on fabricSeams: plain, neatened withserger or zigzag stitch, or4-thread serger stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a coolsetting (fabric can melt)Use for: special-occasion wear,liningsNYLONDeveloped by DuPont in 1938,the fabric takes its name froma collaboration between New York(NY) and London (LON). Nylonis made from polymer chips thatare melted and extruded intofibers. The fabric can be knittedor woven.Properties of nylon: very hard-wearing does not absorb moisture washes easily, although whitenylon can discolor easily very strongCutting out: a nap layout isnot required unless the fabricis printedSeams: plain, neatened with sergeror zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14, buta ballpoint needle may berequired for knitted nylons;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a silksetting (fabric can melt)Use for: sportswear, underwearACRYLICIntroduced in 1950, acrylic fibersare made from ethylene andacrylonitrile. The fabric resembleswool and makes a good substitutefor machine-washable wool. Oftenseen as a knitted fabric, the fiberscan be mixed with wool.Properties of acrylic: little absorbency tends to retain odors not very strongCutting out: use a regular layoutSeams: 4-thread serger stitchon knitted fabrics; plain seam onwoven fabricsThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14,but a ballpoint needle may berequired on knitted fabrics;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on a woolsetting (fabric can be damagedby heat)Use for: knitted yarns forsweaters; wovens for skirts,blousesCutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 48. 52TOOLSTOOLSSPANDEXIntroduced in 1958, this is alightweight, soft fiber than can bestretched 500% without breaking.A small amount of spandex isoften mixed with other fibersto produce wovens with aslight stretch.Properties of spandex: resistant to body oils, detergents,sun, sea, and sand can be difficult to sew can be damaged by heat not suitable for hand sewingCutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: 4-thread serger stitch or aseam stitched with a small zigzagThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine ballpoint size14 or a machine stretch needlePressing: steam iron on a woolsetting (spandex can be damagedby a hot iron)Use for: swimwear, foundationwear, sportswearRAYONAlso known as viscose and oftenreferred to as artificial silk, thisfiber was developed in 1889. It ismade from wood pulp or cottonlinters mixed with chemicals.Rayon can be knitted or wovenand made into a wide range offabrics. It is often blended withother fibers.Properties of rayon: is absorbent is not static dyes well frays badlyCutting out: a nap layout is onlyrequired if the fabric is printedSeams: plain, neatened with sergeror zigzag stitchThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 12/14;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron ona silk settingUse for: dresses, blouses, jacketsSYNTHETIC FURSCreated using a looped yarn that isthen cut on a knitted or a wovenbase, synthetic fur can be madefrom nylon or acrylic fibers. Thefurs vary tremendously in qualityand some are very difficult to tellfrom the real thing.Properties of synthetic furs: easy to sew require careful sewing can be heat-damaged bypressing not as warm as real furCutting out: use a nap layout,with the fur pile brushed fromthe neck to the hem; cut just thebacking carefully and not throughthe fur pileSeams: plain, with a longer stitchand a walking foot; no neateningis requiredThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 14; sharpsfor hand sewingPressing: if required, use a cooliron (synthetic fur can melt undera hot iron)Use for: outerwearSYNTHETIC LEATHERAND SUEDEMade from polymers, these arenon-woven fabrics. Some syntheticleathers and suedes can closelyresemble the real thing.Properties of synthetic leatherand suede: do not fray do not ease well can be difficult to sew by hand,so this is not recommendedCutting out: use a nap layoutSeams: plain, stitched using awalking foot and neatened withpinking shears; can also use top-stitchedseams and lapped seamsThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/14Pressing: steam iron on a woolsetting, with a pressing clothUse for: jackets, skirts, pants, softfurnishingsPOLYESTEROne of the most popular of themanmade fibers, polyester wasintroduced in 1951 as a washablemans suit. Polyester fibers aremade from petroleum by-productsand can take on any form, froma very fine sheer fabric to a thick,heavy suiting.Properties of polyester: non-absorbent does not crease can build up static may pillCutting out: a nap layout is onlyrequired if the fabric is printedSeams: French, plain, or 4-threadserger, depending on the weight ofthe fabricThread: polyester all-purposethreadNeedle: machine size 11/14;sharps for hand sewingPressing: steam iron on apolyester settingUse for: workwear, schooluniforms Needles and pins pp2223 Threads pp2425 Pressing aids pp2829 49. 53FabricconstructionPLAIN WEAVEAs the name suggests, this is thesimplest of all the weaves. The weftyarn passes under one warp yarn, thenover another one.SATIN WEAVEThis has a long strand known as afloat on the warp yarn. The weft goesunder four warp yarns, then over one.This weave gives a sheen on the fabric.HERRINGBONE WEAVEThe distinctive herringbone zigzagweave is made by the weft yarn goingunder and over warp yarns in astaggered pattern.TWILL WEAVEThe diagonal twill weave is made by theweft yarn going under two warp yarns,then over another two, with the patternmoved one yarn across each time.WARP KNITThis is made on a knitting machine,where one yarn is set to each needle(latch). The knit is formed in a verticaland diagonal direction.WEFT KNITMade in the same way as knitting byhand on needles, this uses one yarnthat runs horizontally.FABRIC CONSTRUCTIONMost fabric is made by either knitting or weaving. A knitted fabric is constructed by interlocking loopedyarns. For a woven fabric, horizontal and vertical yarns go under and over each other. The warp yarn,which is the strongest, runs vertically and the weft crosses it at right angles. There are also non-wovenfabrics created by a felting process where tiny fibers are mixed and squeezed together, then rolled out.Cutting out pp7683 Machine stitches and seams pp92103 50. 54TOOLSTOOLSInterfacings An interfacing is a piece of fabric that is attached to the main fabric to give it support orstructure. An interfacing fabric may be woven, knitted, or non-woven. It may also be fusible ornon-fusible. A fusible interfacing (also called iron-on) can be bonded to the fabric by applyingheat, whereas a non-fusible interfacing needs to be sewn to the fabric with a basting stitch.Always cut interfacings on the same grain as the fabric, regardless of its construction.FUSIBLE INTERFACINGSBe sure to buy fusibles designed for the home sewer, because theadhesive on the back of fusible interfacings for commercial usecannot be released with a normal steam iron. Do all patternmarking after the interfacing has been applied to the fabric.WOVENA woven fusible is always a good choice fora woven fabric as the two weaves will worktogether. Always cut on the same grain as thefabric. This type of interfacing is suitable forcrafts and for more structured garments.LIGHTWEIGHT WOVENA very light, woven fusible that is almostsheer, this can be difficult to cut out as ittends to stick to the scissors. It is suitablefor all light to medium-weight fabrics.KNITTEDA knitted fusible is ideally suited to a knitfabric as the two will be able to stretchtogether. Some knitted fusibles only stretchone way, while others will stretch in alldirections. A knitted fusible is alsoa good choice on fabrics that have apercentage of stretch.NON-WOVENNon-woven fusibles are available in a widevariety of weightschoose one that feelslighter than your fabric. You can alwaysadd a second layer if one interfacingproves to be too light. This interfacing issuitable for supporting collars and cuffs,and facings on garments.HOW TO APPLY A FUSIBLE INTERFACING1Place fabric on pressing surface, wrong sideup, making sure it is straight and not wrinkled.2Place the chosen interfacing sticky side downon the fabric (the sticky side feels gritty).3Cover with a dry pressing cloth and spray thecloth with a fine mist of water.4Place a steam iron, on a steam setting, on topof the pressing cloth.5Leave the iron in place for at least 10 secondsbefore moving it to the next area of fabric.6Check to see if the interfacing is fused to thefabric by rolling the fabricif the interfacing isstill loose in places, repeat the pressing process.7When the fabric has cooled down, the fusingprocess will be complete. Then pin the patternback on to the fabric and transfer the patternmarkings as required. Pressing aids pp2829 51. 55NON-FUSIBLE INTERFACINGSThese sew-in interfacings require basting to the wrong side of facingsor the main garment fabric around the seam allowances. They areINTERFACINGSuseful for sheer or fine fabrics where the adhesive froma fusible interfacing might show through.ALPACAA tailorings canvas made from wool andalpaca, this interfacing is excellent to use indifficult fabrics such as velvet, because thealpaca can be steamed into shape.COLLAR CANVASA firm, white cotton canvas, this will stiffenshirt collars and also boned bodices. It isavailable as firm and soft collar canvasalthough there is little difference betweenthe two. Collar canvas is also useful incrafts, such as handbags.MUSLINA cotton muslin interfacing is a good choiceon summer dresses as well as for special-occasionwear. Muslin can also be used toline fine cotton dresses.ORGANZAA pure silk organza makes an excellentinterfacing for sheer fabric to give supportand structure. It can also be used for structurein much larger areas such as bridal skirts.NON-WOVEN SEW-IN INTERFACINGA non-woven material is ideal for crafts andsmall areas of garments, such as cuffs andcollars. Use it in garments when a wovenor fusible alternative is not available.HOW TO APPLY A NON-FUSIBLE INTERFACING1Place the interfacing on to the wrong sideof the fabric, aligning the cut edges.2Pin in place.3Using a basting stitch, baste the interfacingto the fabric at 38 in (1 cm) within theseam allowance.Stitches for hand sewing pp8891 Applying interfacing to a facing p145 Linings and interfacings pp274279 52. PATTERNSPatterns are available not only for clothes,but for a whole range of crafts and softfurnishing projects. When using a paperpattern to create a garment, youll needto take your body measurements so thatyou can compare them to those of thepattern. The pattern may then have to bealtered prior to cutting out your fabric. It isalways a good idea to test out a patternin calico before using the real fabricthisis known as making a toile. The toile willhelp you analyze the fit and whether ornot the style chosen suits your figure type.The final step is to pin the pattern on thefabric, cut out the pieces, and transfer allthe marks from the pattern to the fabric. 53. 58READINGPATTERNSTOOLSPaper patterns are available for clothing, crafts, and homefurnishings. A pattern has three main components: theenvelope, the pattern, and the instructions. The envelopegives an illustration of the item that can be made from thecontents, together with fabric suggestions and requirements.The pattern sheets inside the envelope are normally printedon tissue and contain a wealth of information, while theinstructions tell you how to construct the item.TOOLSNumber ofpattern piecesCode numberfor orderingDescription of garmentor item, giving details ofstyle and different viewsincluded in patternList of pattern sizes inimperial and metricmeasurements for bust,waist, and hips in each sizeSuggested fabricssuitable for garmentor item as well asunsuitable fabricsNotions requiredfor each viewIMPERIALFabric needed (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)Jacket 115 cm*/** 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.80 1.80 2.10 2.20 2.20 2.20 m150 cm*/** 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.40 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.80 1.80 mInterfacing 1 m of 5590 cm lightweight fusible or non-fusibleSkirt A 115 cm*/** 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 2 m150 cm*/** 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.5 mShorts B 115 cm*/** 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 2 m150 cm*/** 1.2 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.5 mPants B 115 cm*/** 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.7 2.7 m150 cm* 2 2 2 2 2.1 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3 m150 cm** 1.6 1.6 1.8 2 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3 mOutline drawing of garment oritem, including back views, withdarts and zipper positionsGarment measurements box givesactual size of finished garmentMETRICBody measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)Bust 78 80 83 87 92 97 102 107 112 cmWaist 58 61 63.5 66 71 76 81 86 94 cmHip 81 84 86 91 96.5 102 107 112 117 cmChart to follow for required fabric quantity,indicating size across top, and chosen viewand correct width down the sideReadinga patternenvelopeThe envelope front illustrates the finished garment or item that can be made from the contents of theenvelope. This may be a line drawing or a photograph. The different versions are known as views. Onthe reverse of the envelope, there is usually an illustration of the back view and the standard bodymeasurement chart that has been used for this pattern, plus a chart that will help you purchase thecorrect amount of fabric for each view. Suitable fabrics are also suggested alongside notions, orhaberdashery, which are all the bits and pieces you need to complete the project.567815 PIECESA AB BMISSES UNLINED JACKET, SKIRT, SHORTS, AND PANTS.Unlined, semifitted, V-neck jacket has short sleeves, front buttons,optional waistline darts, and optional breast pocket. Straight skirt,above mid-knee, and pants or shorts with straight legs, havewaistband, front pleats, side seam pockets, and back zipper.FABRICS: Jacket, skirt, shorts, and pants: wool crepe, soft cottons,sheeting, linen, silk, silk types, and lightweight woollens. Skirt, shorts,and pants also challis, jacquards, and crepe.Unsuitable for fabrics printed with obvious diagonals. Allow extrafabric in order to match plaids, stripes, or one-way design fabrics.Use nap yardages/layouts for shaded, pile, or one-way design fabrics.*with nap. ** without napNOTIONS: Thread. Jacket: three 7 8 in (1.2 cm) buttons; 1 4 in(6 mm) shoulder pads. Skirt, pants: pkg of 1 1 4 in (3.2 cm) waistbandinterfacing; 7 in (18 cm) zipper; and one hook and eye closure.Garment measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)Jacket bust 92 94.5 97 101 106 111 116 121 126 cmJacket waist 81 83 86 89.5 94.5 100 105 110 116 cmJacket back length 73 73.5 74 75 75.5 76 77 77.5 78 cmSkirt A lower edge 99 101 104 106 112 117 122 127 132 cmSkirt A length 61 61 61 63 63 63 65 65 65 cmShorts B leg width 71 73.5 76 81 86.5 94 99 104 109 cmShorts B side length 49.5 50 51 51.5 52 52.5 53.5 54 54.5 cmPants B leg width 53.5 53.5 56 56 58.5 58.5 61 61 63.5 cmPants B side length 103 103 103 103 103 103 103 103 103 cmFabric needed (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)Jacket 45 in*/** 17 8 17 8 17 8 17 8 2 23 8 23 8 23 8 23 8 yd60 in*/** 13 8 13 8 13 8 11 2 17 8 17 8 17 8 17 8 2 ydInterfacing 11 8 yd of 2236 in lightweight fusible or non-fusibleSkirt A 45 in*/** 13 4 17 8 17 8 17 8 2 2 2 2 21 8 yd60 in*/** 11 4 11 4 13 8 13 8 13 8 13 8 11 2 11 2 15 8 ydShorts B 45 in*/** 13 4 13 4 13 4 13 4 2 2 2 2 21 8 yd60 in*/** 11 4 11 4 13 8 13 8 13 8 13 8 11 2 11 2 15 8 ydPants B 45 in*/** 25 8 25 8 25 8 25 8 25 8 25 8 25 8 27 8 27 8 yd60 in* 21 8 21 8 21 8 21 8 21 4 21 4 23 8 21 2 21 2 yd60 in ** 13 4 13 4 17 8 21 8 21 8 21 4 238 21 2 21 2 ydGarment measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)Jacket bust 361 4 371 4 381 4 393 4 413 4 433 4 451 4 473 4 493 4 inJacket waist 313 4 323 4 333 4 351 4 371 4 391 4 411 4 431 4 451 4 inJacket back length 283 4 29 291 4 291 2 293 4 30 301 4 301 2 303 4 inSkirt A lower edge 39 40 41 42 44 46 48 50 52 inSkirt A length 24 24 24 243 4 243 4 243 4 251 2 251 2 251 2 inShorts B leg width 28 29 30 32 34 37 39 41 43 inShorts B side length 191 2 193 4 20 201 4 201 2 203 4 21 211 4 211 2 inPants B leg width 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 25 inPants B side length 401 2 401 2 401 2 401 2 401 2 401 2 401 2 401 2 401 2 inBody measurements (6 8 10) (12 14 16) (18 20 22)Bust 301 2 311 2 321 2 34 36 38 40 42 44 inWaist 23 24 25 261 2 28 30 32 34 37 inHip 321 2 331 2 341 2 36 38 40 42 44 46 in Haberdashery items pp2627 54. READING PATTERNS}}}}}}59PatternmarkingsCutting lineMulti-sizecutting linesGrainlinesPlace-to-fold lineAlteration linesSeamline orstitching lineSeam allowanceCenter front or backHem allowanceHemlineButtonholeCombined buttonand buttonholeButton positionDartPleatTuckBust point or hiplineWaist or hiplineMarkings to betransferred frompattern pieces to thefabric for matchingor to indicate detailSingle notchesDouble notchesTriple notchesZipper placementStraight arrow to be placedalong straight grain of fabric,parallel to selvagesWhere there is a choice of sizelines, desired size line shouldbe selected and followedWhere there isone line only,it applies toall sizesAdjustment lineMulti-sizepatternsMany patterns today have more than one sizeprinted on the tissue. Each size is clearly labeledand the cutting lines are marked with a differenttype of line for each size.FigureshapesMost people fall into one of these four basicfigure shapes. Pattern books and envelopes mayfeature these symbols and they can be used tohelp you choose suitable patterns for your figure.Each pattern piece will have a series of lines,dots, and other symbols printed on it. Thesesymbols are to help you alter the pattern andjoin the pattern pieces together. The symbolsare universal across all major paper patterns.THE WEDGEUpper body (bust and shoulders)is larger than lower body (hips).THE TRIANGLELower body (hips) is larger thanupper body (bust and shoulders).THE RECTANGLEUpper and lower body are ofsimilar proportions.THE HOURGLASSUpper and lower body similar inproportion with a small, neat waist.Single-sizepatternsSome patterns contain a garment or craft projectof one size only. If you are using a single-sizepattern, cut around the tissue on the thick blackcutting line before making any alterations.Dart cutting lineStraight arrowmust be placedon straight grainPositions andnumber ofnotches onboth sidesshould matchto ensure thatcorrect edgesare joinedtogetherOpen dart is very wide,and fabric is cut awaywith pattern followingcutting lineNotches areusually singleon frontarmhole anddouble onback armholeZipper markingsindicate lengthof seam openingfor zipperAlterationlines indicatebest place tolengthen orshortenpattern piecesDarts are markedwith lines, andsometimes withdots or circlesthat match whendarts are foldedPattern pieceswithout grainlinehave place-to-foldline to bepositioneddirectly on foldof fabric, parallelto selvagesBody measuring pp6061 Altering patterns pp6273 Pattern marking pp8283 55. 60TOOLSAccurate body measurements are needed todetermine the correct pattern size to use andif any alterations are required. Pattern sizes areusually chosen by the hip or bust measurement;for tops follow the bust measurement, but forskirts or pants use the hip measurement. If youare choosing a dress pattern, go by whichevermeasurement is the largest.TOOLSBODYMEASURINGChestMeasure above the bust,high under the arms, keepingthe tape measure flat andstraight across the back.Full bustMake sure you are wearinga good-fitting bra andmeasure over the fullestpart of the bust. If your cupsize is in excess of a B, youwill probably need to doa bust alteration, althoughsome patterns are now cutto accommodate largercup sizes.WaistThis is the measurementaround the smallest part ofyour waist. Wrap the tapearound first to find yournatural waist, then measure.TAKING BODY MEASUREMENTSYoull need a tape measure and ruler as well as a helperfor some of the measuring, and a hard chair or stool.Wear close-fitting clothes such as a leotard and leggings.Do not wear any shoes.HOW TO MEASURE YOUR HEIGHTMost paper patterns are designed for a woman 5 ft 5 in to5 ft 6 in (165 to 168 cm). If you are shorter or taller thanthis you may need to adjust the pattern prior to cuttingout your fabric.1 Remove your shoes.2 Stand straight, with your back against the wall.3 Place a ruler flat on your head, touching the wall, andmark the wall at this point.4 Step away and measure the distance from the floorto the marked point. Measuring tools and marking aids pp1819 56. 61HipsThis measurement must betaken around the fullest partof the hips, between the waistand legs.Back waistTake this measurement down thecenter of the back, from the lumpybit at the top of the spine, in line withthe shoulders, to the waist.High hipTake this just below the waistand just above the hip bonesto give a measurement acrossthe tummy.ShoulderHold the end of the tapemeasure at the base of yourneck (where a necklacewould lie) and measure tothe dent at the end of yourshoulder. To find this dent raiseyour arm slightly.NeckMeasure around the necksnugly but not too tighttodetermine collar size.CrotchdepthSit upright on a hard chair or stooland measure from the waistvertically down to the chair.BODY MEASURINGInside legStand with your legs apart andmeasure the inside of one leg fromthe crotch to the ankle bone.Outside legMeasure the side of the leg from thewaist, over the hip, and straight downthe leg to the ankle bone.ArmBend your elbow and placeyour hand on your hip, thenmeasure from the end ofthe shoulder over the elbowto the wrist bone.Altering patterns pp6273 Making a toile pp7475 Marking a hemline p229 57. 62TOOLSIt is unlikely that your body measurements will be exactly thesame as those of your chosen pattern, so you will need toalter the pattern to accommodate your figure. Here is howto lengthen and shorten pattern pieces, and how to makespecific alterations at the bust, waist and hips, shoulders andback, and to sleeves and pants.TOOLSALTERINGPATTERNSEquipment In addition to scissors and pins or tape, you will need a pencil, an eraser, a ruler that is clearlymarked, and possibly a set square. For many alterations, you will also need pattern paper. Afterpinning or taping the piece of pattern tissue to the paper, you can redraw the pattern lines. Trimaway the excess tissue or paper before pinning the pattern pieces to the fabric for cutting out.Lengthening andshortening patternsIf you are shorter or taller, or your arms or legs are shorter or longer, than thepattern pieces, you will need to adjust the paper pattern prior to cuttingout. There are lines printed on the pattern pieces that will guide you as tothe best places to adjust. However, you will need to compare your bodyshape against the pattern. Alter the front and back by the same amountat the same points, and always check finished lengths.Easy multi-sizepattern alterationsUsing a multi-size pattern has many advantages, as you can cut it to suityour unique individual shapefor example, to accommodate a hipmeasurement that may be two sizes different to a waist measurement,or your not being precisely one size or another.INDIVIDUAL PATTERN ADJUSTMENT BETWEEN SIZESTo adjust for a wider hipmeasurement, whencutting from one size toanother, make the lines agentle curve to follow thecontours of the body.If your body measurementsfall between two patternsizes, cut carefully betweenthe two cutting lines for thedifferent sizes.FOR A FITTED SLEEVEOn sleeve withelbow shaping,alter by halfrequired amounthalfway betweenelbow andunderarmUnderarmElbowshapingAlter by other halfof required amounthalfway betweenelbow and wristFOR A STRAIGHT SLEEVEHemWristTo keep wristarea intact,alter partwaydown sleeve,or at hemFOR A BODICEAlter back neck towaist length belowbust dart but abovewaist (through waistdart if there is one)Bust dartWaistWaist dart Measuring tools and marking aids pp1819 Body measuring pp6061 58. 63HOW TO LENGTHEN A PATTERN PIECEFOR A PRINCESS DRESSCrotchline3 Place some patternpaper behind thetissue and spread thepattern pieces apartto leave a gap of therequired amount. Makesure the gap is levelalong the cut lines.FOR A FITTED DRESSBust dartMark between bustand waist to alter backneck to waist lengthWaistAlter belowhipline if notaltering at hemAlter belowhem if notaltering athiplineFOR SHAPED-LEG PANTSAlter each legat midpointto preserveturn-ups orhem shapingFor largealterations,divide amountand alter halfabove knee andhalf belowKneeMake smallalterationsat hemIncrease bodice lengthbelow bust shapingand above waistWaist WaistHiplineBodiceAlter skirtbelow hiplineAlteringhemaffectswidthHem of flareFOR A SKIRTAlter belowhipline or athemHiplineALTERING PATTERNSFOR SHORTSTo increase crotchdepth, alter belowdarts and zipper,but abovecrotchlineFOR STRAIGHT PANTSIncrease crotchbelow darts, butabove crotchlineMake largealterationsmidway downleg to retainleg widthCrotchlineTo preserve hemshaping, alterlegs partwaybetween crotchand hemHemSide frontFrontDart1First work outthe amountyou want to add.4Pin or tape thepattern piecesto the paper.HiplineCrotchlineHem Hem2Cut throughthe lengtheningand shorteninglines on the tissuepaper, followingthe lines carefully.Making a toile pp7475 Marking a hemline p229 59. 64TOOLSHOW TO SHORTEN A PATTERN PIECE3Press with your fingers tocrease the fold sharply,then secure the fold in thepattern piece with tape.2Fold the lengtheningTOOLSto the drawn line so thetwo lines meet neatly. 1Work out the amount you wantand shortening line onto lose. Mark this amount abovethe lengthening and shorteninglines, then draw a line through themarks using the ruler as a guide.HOW TO LENGTHEN ACROSS DARTS HOW TO SHORTEN ACROSS DARTS2Place pattern paperbehind the tissue,making sure that thelines of the dart aresmoothly connected.3Tape or pinin place.1Fold to shortenthe pattern piece.1If an adjustment isrequired across adart, cut and lengthenthe pattern piece.2After shorteningacross a dart,the lines of the dartmay not remain inline. If this is the case,re-draw the dart fromdot to dot, using aruler to ensure that thelines are straight.HOW TO LENGTHEN A HEM EDGE HOW TO SHORTEN A HEM EDGE2Connect the markswith a line, then cutalong the line to removethe surplus tissue.1Using a ruler asa guide, carefullymeasure the newhemline from theoriginal hemline onthe pattern piece.1Place a sheet ofpattern paper underthe tissue at the hemedge and tape down.2Using a ruler asa guide, add onthe required amount,marking dots on thepaper first and thenconnecting themwith a line. Measuring tools and marking aids pp1819 Body measuring pp6061 60. ALTERING PATTERNS point on the tissue. 1Cut the pattern65Bust Some paper patterns today feature various cup sizes, but the majority of patterns are cut to accommodate a B cup. If youare larger than this, you will probably need to adjust your pattern before cutting out. As a general rule, when spreading thepattern pieces apart, try adjusting by 14 in (6 mm) per cup size over a B cup. Other pattern alterations can be made for bustposition, raising it higher or lowering it. If the bust dart is altered, the waist dart may also need to be adjusted.1If the dart has to beraised quite a lot, it iseasier to cut a rectangle outof the part of the patternthat contains the dart andthen move it higher.1Cut the pattern asindicated, straightthrough the bust point.1Mark