first time

SEWINGTHE ABSOLUTE BEGINNER’S GUIDE

by the editors of Creative Publishing international

ContentsINTRODUCTION

SEWING BASICSTHE SEWING MACHINE

MACHINE ACCESSORIES

SEWING SUPPLIES

SPECIAL PRODUCTS

FABRIC INFORMATION

SELECTING A PATTERN

ALL ABOUT PATTERNS

INSIDE THE PATTERN

PATTERN LAYOUT

CUTTING AND MARKING

GETTING READY TO SEW

SEWING A SEAM

HOW TO BALANCE TENSION

HAND STITCHES

HEMS

CUTTING DECORATOR FABRICS

PROJECTSRECTANGULAR TABLE CLOTH

KNIFE-EDGE PILLOWS

ZIPPER CLOSURES

BABY BLANKET

ELASTIC-WAIST SKIRTS

ELASTIC-WAIST PANTS

T-SHIRTS

APRON WITH POCKETS

UNLINED JACKETS

GLOSSARY

INDEX

IntroductionWELCOME TO THE CREATIVE, REWARDING WORLD OF SEWING. FIRSTTIME SEWING IS DESIGNED TO MAKE YOUR LEARNING EXPERIENCE ASPAINLESS AS POSSIBLE AND TO INSTILL CONFIDENCE AS YOU TAKE ONNEW PROJECTS AND LEARN NEW TECHNIQUES. EASY-TO-FOLLOWINSTRUCTIONS WITH COLORFUL PHOTOGRAPHS HELP YOU BUILD YOURSEWING SKILLS WHILE MAKING CLOTHES, GIFTS, AND HOMEDECORATING ITEMS YOU’LL BE PLEASED TO USE, SHARE, AND WEAR.

Sewing enthusiasts enjoy this time-honored art for many reasons. Sewing your ownclothes still gives you the advantage of personalized fit and individual expression.Home decorating items are popular projects for beginners and advanced sewers alike,partly because of the cost savings over purchased items. By sewing these items for thehome, you also get to enjoy the creative fun of choosing styles, colors, and fabrics thatfit your personality and taste. But perhaps the greatest reason that sewing is soenjoyable is the mere satisfaction felt in creating something from scratch with yourown two hands. Whether you are making something for yourself, your home, or to giveto someone else, the ultimate reward is the intangible delight and personal fulfillmentgained in the process.

The projects in this book are designed to guide you from your first nervous stitch atyour sewing machine to comfortable familiarity. Each project will teach you newskills. Throughout the book you will find tips to make your sewing easier or moreefficient and explanations to help you understand the reasons behind the methods.

Use the first section of the book to acquaint yourself with your sewing machine andthe techniques and supplies that encompass the art of sewing. Your sewing machineowner’s manual is a necessity; refer to it first if you have questions or problemsspecific to your machine. The first step in any sewing project is to read through thedirections from beginning to end. Refer to the Tell Me More sidebars for definitionsor elaborations on bold key words or phrases used in the project. At the beginning ofevery project you will find a list of the necessary materials. Read through theinformation on fabrics before you go shopping, so the fabric store will seem a littlemore user-friendly when you get there. Above all, enjoy the process. Give yourself theopportunity to be creative, and express yourself through the things you sew.

SEWING BASICS

There is no better place to start than at the very beginning. If you are starting fromscratch, even a trip to the fabric store can be challenging. Manufacturers can’t includeall the vital information with their packaging, and there are so many tools and sewingnotions to choose from. To give you a firm foundation for learning to sew, this sectionteaches you the essentials about your sewing machine, fabrics, patterns, and sewingsupplies. If you have never taken a stitch, you will appreciate the detailed information,photos, and illustrations. Even if you have a little sewing experience, you are sure tolearn some things you didn’t know. So settle back, take your time, and jump into thebasics.

the sewing machineThe principle parts common to all modern sewing machines are shown in the diagramat right. The parts may look different on your model, and they may have slightlydifferent locations, so open your owner’s manual, also. If you do not have an owner’smanual for your machine, contact a sewing machine dealer who sells your brand orsearch the Internet. Become familiar with the names of the parts and their functions. Asyou spend more time sewing, these items will become second nature to you.

If you are buying a new machine, consider how much and what kind of sewing youexpect to do. Talk to friends who sew and to sales personnel. Ask for demonstrations,and sew on the machine yourself. Experiment with the various features while sewingon a variety of fabrics, including knits, wovens, lightweights, and denim. Think aboutthe optional features of the machine and which ones you want on yours. Many dealersoffer free sewing lessons with the purchase of a machine. Take advantage! Theselessons will be geared to your particular brand and model of sewing machine.

These parts are common to all sewing machines, but their position and designdiffers. Use your manual to help you learn where these parts are, what these parts do,and how to use them:

Bobbin

Bobbin case

Bobbin winder spindle

Bobbin winder tension

Buttonhole knob

Detachable machine bed

Feed dogs

Feed dog control

General-purpose presser foot

Handwheel

Light switch

Needle clamp

Presser foot lifter

Presser foot pressure control

Seam allowance guide

Spool pins

Stitch pattern selector

Stitch length selector

Stitch width selector

Take-up lever

Top tension control

Top tension discs

Thread cutter

Thread guides

Throat plate

Variable speed switch

machine accessoriesSEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

Sewing machine needles come in a variety of styles and sizes. The correct needlechoice depends mostly on the fabric you have selected. Sharp points (A), used forwoven fabrics, are designed to pierce the fabric. Ballpoints (B) are designed to slipbetween the loops of knit fabric rather than pierce and possibly damage the fabric.Universal points are designed to work on both woven and knitted fabrics. The size ofthe needle is designated by a number, generally given in both American (9, 11, 12, 14,16, 18) and European (60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110) numbering systems. Use size 11/70 or12/80 needles for mediumweight fabrics. A larger number means the needle is thickerand that it is appropriate for use with heavier fabrics and heavier threads.

TIP Though needle style and size are usually indicated in some way onthe needle, it is often difficult to see without a magnifying glass, and you mostlikely will not remember what needle is in the machine. As an easy reminder,when you finish a sewing session, leave a fabric swatch from your currentproject under the presser foot.

BOBBINSStitches are made by locking the upper thread with a lower thread, carried on abobbin. Always use bobbins in the correct style and size for your machine. Bobbinthread tension is controlled by a spring on the bobbin case, which may be built in (C)or removable (D).

PRESSER FEETEvery sewing machine comes with accessories for specialized tasks. More can bepurchased as you develop your interest and skills. Your machine manual or dealer canshow you what accessories are available and will explain how to use them to get thebest results.

A general-purpose foot (A), probably the one you will use most often, has a wideopening to accommodate the side-to-side movement of the needle in all types of utility(nondecorative) stitches. It is also suitable for most straight stitching. A zipper foot(B) is used to insert zippers or to stitch any seam that has more bulk on one side thanthe other. For some sewing machines, the zipper foot is stationary, requiring you tomove the needle position to the right or left. For other styles, the position of the zipperfoot itself is adjustable. A special-purpose or embroidery foot (C) has a groovedbottom that allows the foot to ride smoothly over decorative stitches or raised cords.Some styles are clear plastic, allowing you to see your work more clearly. A walkingfoot (D) feeds top and bottom layers at equal rates, allowing you to more easily matchpatterns or stitch bulky layers as for quilting.

sewing suppliesSewing involves many steps: measuring, laying out the pattern, cutting, marking,stitching, and pressing. For each of these steps there are special tools and supplies tomake your sewing easier and help you complete your projects successfully. Don’t feelyou need to buy all the items before you start. For instance, a pair of sharp shears anda seam ripper will see you through most of the cutting tasks for the projects in thisbook. You will undoubtedly acquire additional tools as your skills and interests grow.

HAND-SEWING SUPPLIESNeedles and pins are available in a variety of sizes and styles. Look for rustproofneedles and pins made of brass, nickel-plated steel, or stainless steel. Pictured fromtop to bottom:

Sharps are all-purpose, medium-length needles designed for general sewing.

Crewels are sharp, large-eyed medium-length needles, designed for embroidery.

Betweens are very short and round-eyed. They are useful for hand quilting andmaking fine stitches.

Milliner’s needles are long with round eyes and are used for making long basting orgathering stitches.

Pins with colored ball heads are easier to see and are less likely to get lost thanthose with flat heads.

straight pins are used for general sewing. They should be slim and are usually11/16" (2.7 cm) long.

Quilting pins are 13/4" (4.5 cm) long. Their extra length makes them ideal for use onbulky fabrics or fabrics with extra loft.

A A thimble protects your finger while hand sewing. Available in a variety of stylesand sizes, it is worn on whichever finger you use to push the needle through the fabric.Most people prefer either the middle or ring finger. Using a thimble is an acquiredhabit. Some people can’t get along without one, while others feel they are a nuisance.

B Pincushions provide a safe and handy place to store pins. One style is worn on thewrist for convenience. Another style, a magnetic tray, attracts and holds steel pins. Becareful not to place any magnetic tools near a computerized machine, because themagnet may interfere with the machine’s memory.

C Needle threaders ease threading of hand and machine needles. This is especiallyuseful if you have difficulty seeing something that small.

D Thread can be drawn through beeswax to strengthen it and prevent it from tanglingwhile hand sewing.

MEASURING & MARKING TOOLS

A Transparent ruler allows you to see what you are measuring and marking. It alsois used to check fabric grainline.

B Yardstick (meterstick) should be made of smooth hardwood or metal.

C Tape measure has the flexibility helpful for measuring items with shape anddimension. Select one made of a material that will not stretch.

D Seam gauge is a 6" (15 cm) metal or plastic ruler with a sliding marker. It helpstake quick, accurate measurements and can be used to measure seam allowancewidths.

E Transparent T-square is used to locate grain-line and to measure 90-degreeangles.

F Marking chalk is available in several forms: as powder in a rolling wheeldispenser, as a pencil, or as a flat slice. Chalk lines are easily removable from mostfabrics.

G Fabric marking pens are available in both air-erasable and water-erasable forms.Air-erasable marks disappear within 48 hours; water-erasable marks wash off with asprinkling of water.

H Narrow masking tape is an alternative method for marking fabrics when othermethods are less suitable.

CUTTING TOOLSBuy quality cutting tools and use them only for your sewing! Cutting paper or otherhousehold materials will dull your cutting tools quickly. Dull tools are not onlytiresome to work with, they can also damage fabric. Scissors have both handles thesame size; shears have one handle larger than the other. Have your cutting toolssharpened periodically by a qualified professional.

I Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears are best for cutting out project pieces becausethe angle of the lower blade lets fabric lie flat on the cutting surface. Blade lengths of7" or 8" (18 or 20.5 cm) are most popular, but lengths of up to 12" (30.5 cm) areavailable. Select a blade length appropriate for the size of your hand; shorter lengthsfor smaller hands. Left-handed models are also available.

J Sewing scissors with pointed tips are handy for clipping threads and trimming andclipping seam allowances. A 6" (15 cm) blade is suitable for most tasks.

K Seam ripper quickly removes stitches and opens buttonholes. Use it carefully toavoid cutting the fabric.

L Rotary cutter works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left-handed or right-handed sewers. A locking mechanism retracts the blade for safety. Use the rotarycutter with a special plastic mat, available in different sizes, with or without gridlines.The self-healing mat protects both the work surface and the blade.

M Pinking shears and pinking rotary cutters are used to finish seam allowances.They cut fabric in a zigzag or scalloped pattern instead of a straight line.

PRESSING TOOLSPressing at each stage of construction is the secret to a perfectly finished garment. Thegeneral rule is to press each stitched seam before crossing it with another.

A Steam/spray iron should have a wide temperature range to accommodate allfabrics. Buy a dependable, name-brand iron. An iron that steams and sprays at anysetting, not just the higher heat settings, is helpful for fabrics with synthetic fibers.

B Press cloth helps prevent iron shine and is always used when applying fusibles.The transparent cloth allows you to see if the fabric is smooth and the layers areproperly aligned.

C Teflon-coated sole plate guard, available to fit most irons, eliminates the need fora press cloth.

D Seam roll is a firmly packed cylindrical cushion for pressing seams. The bulk ofthe fabric falls to the sides away from the iron, preventing the seam from making animprint on the right side of the fabric.

E Pressing ham is a firmly packed cushion for pressing curved areas of a garment.

F Sleeve board looks like two small ironing boards attached one on top of the other.It is useful for pressing sleeves one layer at a time to avoid unwanted creases.

special productsMany special products and gadgets are designed to assist you in various steps of thesewing process. Before using a new product, read the manufacturer’s instructionscarefully. Learn what special handling or care is required, and for what fabrics orsewing techniques it is especially suited. Here are some specialized products that youmay find helpful in sewing your clothes, accessories, or home décor items.

A Cutting boards protect table finishes from scratches. Available in cardboard,plastic, or padded styles, these boards also hold fabric more securely while cutting.Square off fabric using the marked lines, and use the 1" (2.5 cm) squares as an instantmeasure.

B Elastics can be purchased in a variety of widths and styles, either in precut lengthsor by the yard (meter). Softer elastics (a) are suitable for pajamas or boxer shorts;nonroll elastic (b) stays flat in the casing; some wide elastic has channels fortopstitching (c).

C Interfacing plays a supporting role in almost every garment. It is an inner layer offabric, used to stabilize the fabric in areas like necklines and waistbands, or givesupport behind buttons and buttonholes. Interfacings may be woven, non-woven, orknit; the easiest forms to use are heat fusible and these should come with instructions.

D A bodkin is used to thread elastic or cording through a casing. One end holds theelastic tightly while you feed the tool through the narrow casing, pulling the elastic orcording behind it.

E Point turner is helpful for perfecting corners, such as at the top of a pocket or atthe ends of a waistband, or inside a pillow cover. Slip the tool inside the item, andgently poke the fabric out into a point.

F Liquid fray preventer is a colorless plastic liquid that prevents fraying bystiffening the fabric slightly. It is helpful when you have clipped too far into a seamallowance or want to reinforce a buttonhole. It may discolor some fabrics, so testbefore using, and apply carefully. The liquid may be removed with rubbing alcohol. Itdries to a permanent finish that will withstand laundering and dry cleaning.

G Glue stick is a convenient substitute for pinning or basting when you need to holdan item in place temporarily before stitching. The temporary adhesive in a retractabletube can be applied in small dots. It won’t discolor the fabric and washes outcompletely, if necessary. It will not harm your machine or gum up your needle as youstitch through it.

H Buttonhole cutter is a handy tool for making precision cuts down the center ofbuttonholes. It comes with a wooden block to place under the fabric to protect yourwork surface and accept the sharp thin blade of the cutter. While buttonholes can becut open with small scissors or a seam ripper, a buttonhole cutter is more accurate andless likely to cut the stitches.

I Basting tape is double-faced adhesive tape used instead of pinning or basting. It isespecially helpful for matching prints, applying zippers, and positioning trims. Somemanufacturers advise that you avoid stitching through the tape because the adhesivemay collect on your needle.

J Single-fold bias tape is useful for hemming curved edges, such as a round

tablecloth. The manufacturer has already cut the bias strips, sewn them together, andpressed in precise folds to make your sewing easier. The tape is available inpackaged lengths in a wide ranges of colors.

K Paper-backed fusible web is sold on rolls, in various narrow widths. It is alsoavailable as a wide sheet rolled on a bolt for purchase by the yard (meter). It is atime-saving product used for adhering two pieces of fabric together. For instance, youmay use narrow strips of it to secure the side hems of a Roman shade instead ofstitching them. A protective paper backing is removed from one side after the otherside has been fused to the fabric.

L Blanket binding resembles a wide satin ribbon that has been pressed in half forencasing the raw edge around a blanket. Packaged in a convenient length for sewingbaby blankets, the binding is available in assorted soft colors and white. Because ofits stability and permanent crease, it is easy to work with, yet feels silky smoothagainst a baby’s skin.

fabric informationSelecting the right fabrics for your projects may seem like an overwhelming task, butthere are a few simple guidelines to help narrow the field. One good way to learnabout fabrics is to browse through a fabric store, handling the fabrics and reading thefiber content information and care instructions printed on the ends of the bolts. Youmay already know whether you want a solid color, a printed pattern, or perhaps amulticolored fabric. Do you need a fabric that can be laundered frequently? Do youwant smooth or textured, stiff or drapable, lightweight or heavy? Some basic fabricknowledge and a thought-out plan will help you make wise choices and avoid costlyerrors.

FIBER CONTENTNatural fabrics are made from plant or animal fibers, spun into yarns: cotton, wool,silk, and linen are most common. Naturals are often considered the easiest fabrics tosew. Synthetic fabrics, made from chemically produced fibers, include nylon, acrylic,acetate, and polyester. Rayon is a man-made fiber made from a plant source. Eachfiber has unique characteristics, desirable for different reasons. Many fabrics are ablend of natural and synthetic fibers, offering you the best qualities of each, such as thebreathable comfort of cotton blended with the wrinkle resistance of polyester.

WOVEN FABRICSWoven fabrics have straight lengthwise and crosswise yarns. The pattern in which theyarns are woven gives the fabric its characteristic surface texture and appearance. Theouter edges of woven fabrics are called selvages. As a general rule, they should betrimmed away because they are often heavier than the rest of the fabric, and they mayshrink when laundered or pressed. Grainlines are the directions in which the fabricyarns run. Strong, stable lengthwise yarns, running parallel to the selvages, form thelengthwise grain. The crosswise grain is perpendicular to the lengthwise grain and hasa small amount of give. Any diagonal direction, called the bias, has a fair amount ofstretch.

KNIT FABRICSKnit fabrics consist of rows of interlocking loops of yarn, as in a hand-knit sweater,but usually on a finer scale. Knit fabrics are more flexible than other fabrics, and theyall stretch. These features mean that garments made of knits require less fitting andoffer more freedom of movement. When sewing with knits, select patterns that arespecifically designed for knit fabrics.

knit fabric is made from interlocking looped stitches. The lengthwise rows ofstitches are called ribs; the crosswise rows are called courses. These ribs and coursescorrespond to the lengthwise and crosswise grains of woven fabrics.

Patterns designed for knit fabrics have a stretch gauge. Fold over the fabric along acrosswise course several inches (centimeters) from a cut end, and test its degree ofstretch against the gauge. If the fabric stretches the necessary amount withoutdistortion, it is suitable for the pattern.

FABRIC SHOPPINGFabrics in a store are divided into fashion fabrics and decorator fabrics. Decoratorfabrics are generally more durable than fashion fabrics; most have stain-resistantfinishes. They are designed for pillows, slipcovers, window treatments, and otherhome decorating projects. They are manufactured in widths (crosswise grain) of 48"or 54" (122 or 137 cm), though occasionally you may find some wider. To preventcreases, decorator fabrics are rolled on tubes.

Fashion fabrics are usually folded double and rolled on cardboard bolts. They varyin width; the most common are 36", 45", and 60" (91.5, 115, and 152.5 cm). Thoughfashion fabrics are intended for apparel, many of them are also suitable for homedecorating. Most stores arrange their fashion fabrics according to the fiber content orfabric style. For example, all the wools and wool blends, suitable for skirts, slacks,and jackets, may be found together in one area of the store; all the bridal and special-occasion fabrics located in another area; quilting fabrics (lightweight cottons) inanother. This is not a hard-and-fast rule, however, so you will want to spend timegetting acquainted with the fabric stores you shop.

FABRIC PREPARATIONPreshrink washable fabric before cutting out the project, by washing and drying it inthe same way you will care for the finished item. Because most decorator fabrics arenot washable and require dry cleaning when necessary, preshrink them by pressingwith steam, moving the iron evenly along the grainlines. Allow the fabric to dry beforemoving it.

selecting a patternMajor pattern companies follow a uniform sizing based on standard bodymeasurements. This is not exactly the same as ready-to-wear sizing.

DETERMINING SIZETo select the right pattern size, first take your standard body measurements. Wear yourusual undergarments and use a tape measure that doesn’t stretch. It may be easier tohave another person measure you. Record your measurements and compare them withthe size chart on the back of the pattern or in the pattern book.

TAKING STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS

1 Waistline. Tie a string or piece of elastic around your middle, and allow it to roll toyour natural waistline. Measure at this exact location with a tape measure. Leave thestring in place as a reference for measuring your hips and back waist length.

2 Hips. Measure around the fullest part of your hips. This is usually 7" to 9" (18 to 23cm) below the waistline, depending on your height.

3 Bust. Place the tape measure under your arms, across the widest part of the back andthe fullest part of the bustline.

4 Back waist length. Measure from the middle of the most prominent bone at the baseof the neck down to the waistline string.

PATTERN SELECTIONSelecting a pattern for a garment allows for more creativity than shopping from aready-to-wear catalog. Pattern catalogs don’t limit you to certain fabric, colors, skirtlengths, or types of trims shown on the pages. You are free to choose a combination offeatures that best reflect your style and are most flattering to you.

Major pattern companies publish new catalogs with each season, which means thatdesigner trends seen in clothing stores are reflected in the newest pattern catalogsalong with more classic styles. You’ll find simple patterns for sewers who prefer thequick and easy styles, and more detailed patterns for experienced sewers. The numberof pattern pieces listed on the back of the pattern will provide a clue to the complexityof the pattern. The fewer pieces, the easier the project. Also, the pattern may indicatewhether it is intended for knits only.

Pattern catalogs are usually divided into categories by garment types and marked byindex tabs. The newest fashions often appear in the first few pages of each category.Pattern illustrations are accompanied by information on recommended fabrics andyardage requirements. An index at the back of the catalog lists patterns in numericalorder along with their page numbers. The back of the catalog also includes a completesize chart for every figure type.

all about patternsThe pattern envelope is a selling tool and an educational device. The front generallyhas a photograph of the finished garment and several drawings of the variations thatcan be sewn using the pattern. On the pattern back, you’ll find detailed information tohelp you select fabric and all the notions necessary to complete your project.

THE ENVELOPE FRONT

THE ENVELOPE BACKFabric amounts required for each view in all the available sizes are listed in a chart.Locate the style view and the fabric width at the left; match it with your size at the top.The number where the two columns meet is the amount of fabric you need to buy.Interfacing and elastic requirements are also listed. Metric equivalents are given in aseparate chart.

inside the patternEven if you love a good puzzle, your first peek at the pattern innards can be scary.Here’s what to expect.

PATTERN FEATURES

pattern layoutAll pattern companies use a universal system of symbols on their pattern pieces. Thesesymbols help you lay out the pattern, show you where to cut, help you match upseamlines, show you where to sew, and give placement guides for things like buttons,buttonholes, and hems. Along with the symbols, you will also find essentialinstructions printed on the pattern pieces.

Pattern Layout continuedPrepare a large work area, such as a dining room table covered with a cutting board(page 19). Assemble all the pattern pieces you will be needing, and press out anywrinkles with a warm, dry iron.

Locate and circle the correct cutting layout diagram (page 31) on your pattern guidesheet. These diagrams usually show you the easiest, most efficient way to lay out yourpattern. Some fabrics have a nap, meaning they have definite up and down directions.For these fabrics, pattern pieces must all be laid out in the same direction.

Fold the fabric in half, lengthwise. Smooth it out on the work surface, so that theselvages align and the crosswise grain is perpendicular to them. Arrange the patternpieces as indicated in the layout diagram. White pattern shapes indicate the piece is tobe placed with the printed side up. Shaded pieces are to be placed with the printedside down. Be sure to follow any other incidental directions that pertain to yourlayout. After all the pieces are in place, pin them to the fabric. Do not begin cuttinguntil all the pattern pieces are in place.

PINNING

1 First, position the pattern pieces that are to be cut on the fold. Place each onedirectly on the folded edge of the fabric. Pin the corners diagonally. Then continuepinning near the outer edge, placing the pins parallel to the cutting line. Space the pinsabout 3" (7.5 cm) apart; closer together on curves.

2 Place the straight-grain pattern pieces on the fabric, with the grainline arrowparallel to the selvages on woven fabrics or parallel to the ribs on knits. Measurefrom each end of the arrow to the selvage, shifting the pattern until the distances areequal. Pin both ends of the grainline so the pattern will not shift. Then pin the outeredges.

tell me more

FOLD THE FABRIC IN HALF, LENGTHWISE. When your fabric is folded like this, you willend up with mirror-image pieces for the left and right sides of the garment. Patterndirections usually suggest folding right sides together. Sometimes there are advantagesto folding wrong sides together, such as having a better view of the fabric design orease in marking. Either way will work.

cutting and markingDon’t be intimidated! Locate the correct cutting lines, and cut with confidence.Transfer the necessary marks, and you’ll be ready to sew!

CUTTINGAccuracy is important, since mistakes made in cutting cannot always be corrected.Before cutting, double-check the placement of the pattern pieces.

A Using bent-handled shears, cut with long, firm strokes, cutting directly on thecutting line. Take shorter strokes around curves. If you are using a multisize pattern, besure that you follow the correct cutting line all the time.

B Notches can be cut outward, especially if the fabric is loosely woven or if thepattern calls for 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances. Cut multiple notches as one unit, notseparately. Or, you can cut directly through the notches, and then mark them with shortsnips into the seam allowances.

C If you prefer to use a rotary cutter and mat, be sure to keep the mat under the areabeing cut. Use steady, even pressure, and, above all, keep fingers and small childrenaway from the rotary cutter.

MARKINGKeep the pattern pieces pinned in place after cutting. Transfer pattern symbols to theappropriate side of the fabric, using one of the following methods.

A Pins are a quick way to transfer marks. Since they may fall out easily, use pinmarks only when you intend to sew immediately. Or, pin-mark first, remove thepattern, and mark again, using chalk or erasable fabric marker.

B Erasable fabric markers are felt-tip pens designed specifically for sewing needs.Air-erasable marks disappear within 48 hours. Water-erasable marks disappear witha spritz of water.

C Chalk is available in pencil form or as a powder in a rolling wheel dispenser.

D Snips are handy for marking things like dots at shoulder seams. Make shallow snipsinto the seam allowances at the dot locations.

getting ready to sewSimple tasks of inserting the needle, winding the bobbin, and threading the machinehave tremendous influence on the stitch quality and performance of your machine. Usethis guide as a general reference, but refer to your owner’s manual for instructionsspecific to your machine.

INSERTING THE NEEDLELoosen the needle clamp. After selecting the appropriate needle for your project (page12), insert it into the machine as high as it will go. The grooved side of the needlefaces forward, if your bobbin gets inserted from the front or top; it faces to the left, ifyour bobbin gets inserted on the left. Tighten the clamp securely.

WINDING THE BOBBINIf the bobbin case is built in, the bobbin is wound in place with the machine fullythreaded as if to sew (page 40).

Removable bobbins are wound on the top or side of the machine, with the machine threaded for bobbin winding, asdescribed in your owner’s manual.

Bobbin thread must be drawn through the bobbin case tension spring. For wind-in-place bobbins, this happensautomatically when you wind the bobbin, but you must do it manually when you insert a bobbin that already hasthread on it.

After inserting the bobbin and threading the machine (page 40), you need to draw the bobbin thread to the top. Holdthe needle thread while turning the handwheel toward you one full turn. As the needle goes down, the top threadinterlocks with the bobbin thread and brings it up through the needle hole. Pull both threads together under thepresser foot and off to the side or back.

THREADING THE MACHINEBecause every sewing machine is different, the threading procedure for your machinemay differ slightly from the one shown here. Once again, it is important to refer to yourowner’s manual. Every upper thread guide adds a little tension to the thread as itwinds its way to the needle. Missing one of them can make a big difference in thequality of your stitches.

1 Set the thread spool on the spindle. For a vertical spindle, position the spool so thatit will turn clockwise as you sew. If the spindle is horizontal, the spool is held inplace with an end cap. If your spool has a small cut in one end for minding the thread,position the spool with that end to the right.

TIP If the spool is new and has paper labels covering the holes, pokethem in, completely uncovering the holes, to allow the spool to turn freely.Unless your machine has a self-winding bobbin, you will want to wind thebobbin (page 38) before threading the machine.

2 Pull thread to the left and through the first thread guide.

3 Draw thread through the tension guide.

4 Draw thread through the next thread guide.

5 Insert thread through the hole or slot in take-up lever.

6 Draw the thread through the remaining thread guides.

7 Thread the needle. Most needles are threaded from front to back; some, from side toside.

8 Holding the needle thread, turn the hand-wheel toward you one full rotation. Theneedle thread will engage the bobbin thread. When you tug on the needle thread, thebobbin thread should come up through the hole in the needle plate.

TIP It is very important to have the presser foot lever up whenthreading the machine because the tension discs are then open. If the presserfoot is down and the discs are closed, the thread will not slide between thediscs, and your stitches will not form properly.

sewing a seamLittle frustrations, such as thread jams, erratic stitching lines, or having the thread pullout of the needle at the start of a seam, can often be prevented or corrected byfollowing these basic guidelines.

HOW TO SEW A SEAM

1 Thread your machine (page 40) and insert the bobbin (page 12). Holding the needlethread with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you until the needle has gonedown and come back up to its highest point. You will feel a tug on the needle thread.Pull on the needle thread to bring the bobbin thread up through the hole in the throatplate. Pull both threads together under the presser foot and off to one side.

2 Cut rectangles of fabric. Place the pieces right sides together, aligning the outeredges. Pin the pieces together along one long edge, inserting the pins about every 2"(5 cm), perpendicular to the edge. Place the fabric under the presser foot so thepinned side edges align to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance guide and the upper edgesalign to the back of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot, and set your stitch lengthat 2.5 mm, which equals 10 stitches per inch.

3 Backstitch several stitches to the upper edge of the fabric. Hold the thread tailsunder a finger for the first few stitches. This prevents the needle thread from beingpulled out of the needle and also prevents the thread tails from being drawn down intothe bobbin case, where they could potentially cause a thread jam.

4 Stitch forward over the backstitched line, and continue sewing the 1/2" (1.3 cm)seam. Gently guide the fabric while you sew by walking your fingers ahead of andslightly to the sides of the presser foot. Remember, you are only guiding; let themachine pull the fabric.

5 Stop stitching and remove pins as you come to them. When you reach the end ofthe fabric, stop stitching; backstitch several stitches, and stop again. Turn thehandwheel toward you until the needle is in its highest position.

6 Raise the presser foot. Pull the fabric smoothly away from the presser foot, either tothe left side or straight back. If you have to tug the threads, turn your handwheelslightly toward you until they pull easily. Cut the threads, leaving tails 21/2" to 3" (6.5to 7.5 cm) long.

tell me moreINSERTING THE PINS PERPENDICULAR TO THE EDGE. This makes it much easier toremove them as you sew. The pin heads are near the raw edge where you can easilygrasp them with your right hand. In this position, you are much less likely to stickyourself with a pin as you sew.

REMOVE PINS AS YOU COME TO THEM. As tempting as it may be, don’t sewover pins! You may be lucky and save a few seconds, or you could hit a pin and breakyour needle, costing you much more time in the long run.

how to balance tensionYour machine forms stitches by interlocking the bobbin thread with the needle thread.Every time the needle goes down into the fabric, a sharp hook catches the needlethread and wraps the bobbin thread around it. Imagine this little tug-of-war. If theneedle thread tension is “stronger” than the bobbin thread tension, the needle threadpulls the bobbin thread through to the top. If the bobbin thread tension is “stronger,” itpulls the needle thread through to the bottom. When the tensions are evenly balanced,the stitch will lock exactly halfway between the top and bottom of the layers beingsewn, which is right where you want it.

Some machines have “self-adjusting tension,” meaning the machine automaticallyadjusts its tension with every fabric you sew. For machines that do not have thisfeature, you may have to adjust the needle thread tension slightly as you sew differentfabrics.

1 Thread your machine and insert the bobbin, using two very different colors ofthread, neither of which matches the fabric. Cut an 8” (20.5 cm) square of a smooth,mediumweight fabric. Fold the fabric in half diagonally, and place it under the presserfoot so the fold aligns to your 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam guide. Lower the presser foot and set

your stitch length at ten stitches per inch or 2.5 mm long.

2 Stitch a line across the fabric, stitching 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the diagonal fold.Remove the fabric from the machine. Inspect your stitching line from both sides. Ifyour tension is evenly balanced, you will see only one color on each side. If you seeboth thread colors on the top side of your sample, the needle tension is tighter than thebobbin tension. If you see both thread colors on the back side of your sample, thebobbin tension is tighter than the needle tension.

3 Pull on your stitching line until you hear threads break. (Because you stitched on thebias, the fabric will stretch slightly.) If the thread breaks on only one side, yourmachine’s tension is tighter on that side.

Top tension too tight

Top tension too loose

Tension even

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONBefore adjusting the tension on your machine, first check:

that your machine is properly threaded (page 40) that your bobbin is properly installed that your needle is not damaged and is inserted correctly

After checking these three things, you may need to adjust the tension on yourmachine. (Check your owner’s manual.) Tighten or loosen the needle thread tensionslightly to bring the needle thread and bobbin thread tensions into balance. Test the

stitches after each adjustment, until you achieve balanced tension. If slight adjustmentsof the needle tension dial do not solve the problem, the bobbin tension may needadjusting. However, most manufacturers do not recommend that you adjust bobbintension yourself, so unless you have received instructions for adjusting the bobbintension on your machine, take your machine in for repair.

SEAM FINISHES

A Stitched and pinked finish. Stitch 1/4" (6 mm) from each seam allowance edge,using a straight stitch set at 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm. Trim close to thestitching, using pinking shears (page 17). This finish is suitable for finely wovenfabrics that do not ravel easily.

B Zigzag finish. Set the zigzag stitch on or near maximum width and a length of 10

stitches per inch, which equals 2.5 mm. Stitch close to the edge of each seamallowance so that the right-hand stitches go just over the edge. If the fabric puckers, trya narrower zigzag width.

C Multistitch-zigzag finish. If your machine has this stitch, check your owner’smanual for directions on selecting the settings. Stitch near, but not over the edge of,each seam allowance.

D Turn and zigzag finish. Set the zigzag stitch near maximum width at a length of 10stitches per inch, which equals 2.5 mm. Turn under the seam allowance edge 1/8" to1/4" (3 to 6 mm). Stitch close to the folded edge so that the right-hand stitches go juston or over the fold. Use this finish on loosely woven fabrics, especially on garments,such as jackets, where the inside may be visible occasionally.

TIP Straight stitching lines are easier to achieve if you watch the edgeof the fabric along the seam guide and ignore the needle. Sew smoothly at arelaxing pace, with minimal starting and stopping, and without bursts ofspeed. You have better control of the speed if you operate your foot controlwith your heel resting on the floor.

SPECIAL SEAMSAside from the standard straight-stitch seam, your machine is probably capable ofsewing several other stitches that are appropriate for various fabrics and situations.Whenever you sew with knits, for example, you want a seam that will stretch with thefabric. To prevent raveling of woven fabrics, seam allowance edges must be finished.There are several finishing methods to choose from, depending on the fabric and thecapabilities of your machine. These general guidelines will help you decide when touse these stitches and finishing methods. Your owner’s manual is the best source ofspecific information for your machine.

STRETCH SEAMS

Double-stitched seam (A). Stitch on the seam-line, using a straight stitch set at alength of 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm long. Stretch the fabric slightly asyou sew, to allow the finished seam to stretch that much. Stitch again 1/8" (3 mm) intothe seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance close to the second stitching line. Thisseam is appropriate for fabrics with minimal stretch or for seams sewn in the verticaldirection on moderate stretch knits.

Narrow zigzag seam (B). Stitch on the seam-line, using a very narrow zigzag stitchset at 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm long. If the fabric is very stretchy in thedirection you are sewing, you may also stretch the fabric slightly as you sew. Trim theseam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm), if necessary. Set the zigzag wider, and stitch the seamallowance edges together. This seam is appropriate for very stretchy knits.

Built-in stretch stitch (c). Differing from brand to brand, these stitches aredesigned to incorporate stretch, so that you do not need to stretch the fabric as yousew. Some stitch styles, like the bottom two samples, are a pattern of zigzag andstraight stitches that stitch and finish the seam in one pass. Check your manual forstitch settings.

TIP The cut edges of knit fabrics do not ravel, but they often curl. Tominimize this problem, the seam allowances are usually finished together andpressed to one side.

hand stitchesWhile modern sewers rely on sewing machines for speedy construction, there aresituations when hand stitching is necessary or preferable. You may need to slipstitchan opening closed to finish a pillow, or perhaps you like the look of a hand-stitchedblind hem on a skirt. Of course you’ll also need to sew on buttons.

THREADING THE NEEDLEInsert the thread end through the needle’s eye, for sewing with a single strand. Or foldthe thread in half, and insert the fold through the eye, for sewing with a double strand.Pull through about 8" (20.5 cm). Wrap the other end(s) around your index finger. Then,using your thumb, roll the thread off your finger, twisting it into a knot.

TIP Use a single strand when slipstitching or hemming. Use a doublestrand when sewing on buttons. To avoid tangles, begin with thread no longerthan 18" (46 cm) from the needle to the knot. Run the thread through beeswax(page 15), if desired.

SLIPSTITCHING

1 Insert the threaded needle between the seam allowance and the garment, just behindthe opening. Bring it to the outside in the seamline. If you are righthanded, work fromright to left; lefties work from left to right.

2 Insert the needle into the fold just behind where the thread came up, and run it insidethe fold for about 1/4" (6 mm). Bring the needle out, and draw the thread snug. Takeyour next stitch in the opposite fold, inserting the needle directly across from theprevious stitch.

3 Continue, crossing from one fold to the other, until you have sewn past the opening.Secure the thread with several tiny stitches in the seamline. Then take a long stitch,and pull it tight. Clip the thread at the surface, and let the tail disappear inside.

SEWING ON A SEW-THROUGH BUTTON

1 Place the button on the mark, with the holes lining up parallel to the buttonhole.Bring the needle through the fabric from the underside and up through one hole in thebutton. Insert the needle into another hole and through the fabric layers.

2 Slip a toothpick, match, or sewing machine needle between the thread and the buttonto form a shank. Take three or four stitches through each pair of holes. Bring theneedle and thread to the right side under the button. Remove thetoothpick.

3 Wind the thread two or three times around the button stitches to form the shank.Secure the thread on the right side under the button, by making a knot or taking severalsmall stitches. Clip the threads close to the knot.

SEWING ON A SHANK BUTTON

1 Place the button on the mark, with the shank hole parallel to the buttonhole. Securethe thread on the right side of the garment with a small stitch under the button.

2 Bring the needle through the shank hole. Insert the needle down through the fabricand pull the thread through. Take four to six stitches in this manner.

3 Secure the thread in the fabric under the button by making a knot or by taking severalsmall stitches. Clip the thread ends.

hemsThere are a number of ways to hem the lower edges of skirts, pants, jackets, and shirts.Some hems are sewn by machine; others by hand. The method you choose will dependon the fabric, the garment style, and your own preference. For methods that do notinvolve turning under the raw edge, finish the edge (page 46) in an appropriatemanner, before hemming.

HAND HEMS

A Blindstitch. Fold back the finished edge of the hem 1/4" (6 mm). Take a small stitchto anchor the thread in a seam allowance. Work with the needle pointing in thedirection you are going. Take a very small horizontal stitch in the garment, catchingonly one or two threads. Take the next stitch in the hem, 1/4" to 1/2" (6 mm to 1.3 cm)away from the first stitch. Continue alternating stitches; do not pull too tightly.

B Blind catchstitch. Fold back the finished edge of the hem 1/4" (6 mm). Take a smallstitch to anchor the thread in a seam allowance. Work with the needle pointing in thedirection opposite from the way you are going. Take a very small horizontal stitch inthe garment, catching only one or two threads. Take the next stitch in the hem, 1/4" to1/2" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) away from the first stitch, crossing the stitches. Continuealternating the stitches in a zigzag pattern.

C Slipstitch. Fold under the raw edge 1/4" (6 mm), and press. Take a small stitch toanchor the thread in a seam allowance. Work with the needle pointing in the directionyou are going. Follow the directions for slipstitching on page 49, catching only one ortwo threads with each stitch that goes into the garment.

MACHINE HEMS

A Machine blindstitch. Follow your manual for adjusting the stitch settings, and usethe appropriate presser foot. Test the stitch on a scrap of the garment fabric until youare happy with the results. (A) Place the hem allowance facedown on the machinebed, with the bulk of the garment folded back. Allow about 1/4" (6 mm) of the hemedge to extend under the presser foot, aligning the soft fold to rest against the guide inthe foot. Stitch along the hem, close to the fold, catching only one or two threads of thegarment with each left-hand stitch of the needle.

B When complete, open out the hem, and press it flat.

C Double-fold hem. This method results in one or two rows of straight stitchesshowing on the right side. Turn under a double-fold hem. Then stitch along the innerfold and repeat at the outer fold, if desired. This method is most successful on straightedges where there is no excess fullness to ease in.

D Double-needle hem. Stitched from the right side of the fabric, this hem is suitablefor knit garments, because it will stretch slightly. The farther apart the needles arespaced, the more stretch the hem will have. However, widely spaced needles willusually produce a ridge between the stitching lines. Using two thread spools on top,

thread both needles. Place tape on the bed of the machine as a stitching guide.

cutting decorator fabricsCutting into a new piece of fabric may seem a little scary, considering the investmentyou have just made. Here are a few guidelines for accurate cutting that should boostyour confidence.

After preshrinking, straighten the cut ends of the fabric, using one of the threemethods opposite. Then mark the other cutting lines, using the straightened edge as aguide. Before cutting full-width pieces of fabric for large home décor projects, such astablecloths, duvet covers, or Roman shades, pin-mark the placement of each cut alongthe selvage. Mark out pieces for smaller projects, like decorator pillows or napkins,with chalk. Double-check your measurements and inspect the fabric for flaws. Onceyou have cut into the fabric, you cannot return it. To ensure that large décor items willhang or lay straight, the fabric lengths must be cut on-grain. This means that the cutsare made along the exact crosswise grain of the fabric. Patterned decorator fabrics arecut following the pattern repeat rather than the grainline so they must be printed on-grain.

A For tightly woven fabrics without a matchable pattern, mark straight cuts on thecrosswise grain, using a carpenter’s square. Align one edge to a selvage and markalong the perpendicular side.

B For loosely woven fabrics, such as linen tablecloth fabric, pull out a yarn along thecrosswise grain, from selvage to selvage. Cut along the line left by the missing yarn.

C For tightly woven patterned decorator fabric, mark both selvages at the exact samepoint in the pattern repeat. Using a long straightedge, draw a line connecting the twopoints. If you will be stitching two or more full widths of fabric together, make all thecuts at the same location in the repeat. This usually means that you cut the pieceslonger than necessary, stitch them together, and then trim them to the necessary length.

tell me morePRINTED ON-GRAIN. This means the pattern repeat coincides exactly with thecrosswise grain of the fabric. To test fabric before you buy, place it on a flat surfaceand fold the cut edge back, aligning the selvages on the sides. Crease the fold withyour fingers, then unfold the fabric and check to see if the crease runs into the selvageat exactly the same point in the pattern on both sides. Slight differences of less than 2"(5 cm) can usually be corrected by stretching the fabric diagonally. Avoid buyingfabric that is printed more that 2" (5 cm) off-grain, as you will not be able to correctit, and the finished project will not hang straight.

matching designsStitching seams in decorator fabrics that have printed designs or woven-in patternsrequires a few extra steps to make sure the pattern will flow uninterrupted from onefabric width to the next.

1 Place two fabric widths right sides together, aligning the selvages. Fold back theupper selvage until the pattern matches. Adjust the top layer slightly up or down sothat the pattern lines up exactly. Press the foldline.

2 Unfold the pressed selvage, and pin the fabric widths together, inserting the pins inand parallel to the foldline.

3 Turn the fabric over, and check the match from the right side. Make any necessaryadjustments.

4 Repin the fabric so the pins are perpendicular to the foldline. Stitch the seamfollowing the foldline; remove pins as you come to them (p. 43).

5 Check the match from the right side again. Make any necessary adjustments. Trimaway the selvages, cutting the seam allowances to 1/2" (1.3 cm).

6 Set the pattern selector to zigzag and your stitch width and length to medium. Finishthe raw edges together by zigzagging down the length of the seam. Press the seamallowances to one side.

7 Trim the entire fabric panel to the necessary cut length as determined in the projectinstructions. (Remember your initial cut length for the patterned fabric included extralength to accommodate the pattern repeat.)

tell me moreZIGZAG. The sewing machine needle moves from side to side with each stitch. You canadjust the width and length of the zigzag. Experiment with different settings on a scrapof fabric.

FINISH THE RAW EDGES TOGETHER. This prevents the fabric from raveling,which is especially important for home décor items that are not lined.

PROJECTS

The eight projects in this section include easy home décor items and basic wardrobepieces. In each project, you will learn a few new sewing skills. If you work your waythrough the projects in order, your skill set will be fairly complete by the time youfinish your first unlined jacket. As you repeat techniques you’ve learned in previousprojects, your confidence will grow.

Four of the garment projects require a commercial pattern, so look for a pattern thatclosely resembles the lines and detail level of the garment shown. Certainly youshould read the pattern instructions, but use the book instructions and photographs tohelp you sew your garment. You do not need a commercial pattern to sew thetablecloth, pillow, baby blanket, or apron.

RECTANGULAR TABLECLOTHA simple rectangular tablecloth adds elegance or accents your color scheme and iseasily changed for special occasions, the changing seasons, or your mood! The neatlymitered corners look very professional, yet they are surprisingly easy to sew. Thistechnique can be used for several other home decorating items, such as a square tabletopper to place over a floor-length round tablecloth, dinner napkins, placemats, or atable runner.

HOW TO SEW A RECTANGULAR TABLECLOTH

1 Determine the desired finished size for your tablecloth; add 4” (10 cm) to bothlength and width for the hem. Cut a rectangle of fabric equal to these measurements,following the cutting guidelines on pages 54 and 55.

TIP Select fabric that is wide enough for your tablecloth to be sewn inone piece: 48" (122 cm) fabric for a finished width up to 44" (112 cm), 54"(137 cm) fabric for a finished width up to 50" (127 cm), or 60" (152.5 cm)fabric for a finished width up to 56" (142 cm).

MATERIALS• Fabric, amount determined in step 1• Thread• Fabric glue stick

SKILLS• Sew double-fold hems• Use a glue stick to help make perfect mitered corners

2 Press under 2" (5 cm) on all four edges of the cloth. Unfold the pressed edges andpress each corner diagonally at the point where the creases intersect. Trim off thecorner diagonally at the points where it crosses the foldlines. Use a dot of fabric gluestick to hold the corner in place.

3 Turn each cut edge in, aligning it to the first fold line, and press the outer fold.

4 Refold on the first fold line, encasing the raw edge to form a 1" (2.5 cm) double-fold hem. Pin the hem in place, inserting pins perpendicular to the folds (p. 19). Useadditional dots of glue stick to secure the mitered folds in the corners.

5 Edgestitch along the inner fold line. At the corners, stop with the needle down inthe fabric and pivot. Overlap the stitches 1/2" (1.3 cm) where they meet. Press thetablecloth.

TIP Support the bulk of the fabric to your left with a card table orother surface, so the fabric feeds easily as you stitch. This will help youmaintain a nice straight stitching line.

tell me moreEDGESTITCH. Stitch as close as possible to the inner edge of the hem. Align the presserfoot so that the needle will enter the fabric just inside the inner edge. Note the point onthe presser foot that aligns to the edge of the hem itself. As you sew, watch the fabricas it passes under that point on the foot rather than watching the needle. Stitch slowlyfor the best control.

KNIFE-EDGE PILLOWSThe knife-edge pillow is probably the most versatile style for decorating your home.There are no limits to the variations you can create, not only in size, color, and texture,but also in added details that give your pillow a personal touch. The directions thatfollow are for a knife-edge pillow that is 14" (35.5 cm) square. For your first knife-edge pillow, we recommend a firmly woven mediumweight fabric.

Ready-made knife-edge pillow inserts come in a wide selection of sizes, including12", 14", 16", 18", 20", 24", and 30" (30.5, 35.5, 40.5, 46, 51, 61, and 76 cm) squaresand a 12" × 16" (30.5 × 40.5 cm) rectangle. By adapting these cutting instructions, youcan sew a cover for any size pillow insert. You can also use these instructions to sewyour own pillow inserts in any size you like, stuffing them to a plumpness that pleasesyou.

HOW TO SEW A KNIFE-EDGE PILLOW

1 Cut two 15" (38 cm) squares of fabric, aligning the sides to the fabric grainlines(page 22). A 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance is needed on each side, so 1" (2.5 cm) isadded to each dimension of the desired finished size.

MATERIALS• 14" (35.5 cm) square pillow form• 1/2 yd. (0.5 m) of fabric• Matching thread• Hand-sewing needle

SKILLS

• Backstitch• Set and press seams• Sew perfect corners• Slipstitch an opening closed by hand

tell me moreDESIRED FINISHED SIZE. To make a knife-edge pillow of a different size, simply cutyour fabric 1" (2.5 cm) larger in both directions than the desired finish d size of yourpillow. Cut 17" (43 cm) squares for a 16" (40.5 cm) pillow; cut 13" × 19" (33 × 48.5cm) rectangles for a 12" × 18" (30.5 × 46 cm) pillow.

2 Place the pillow front over the pillow back, right sides together, and align all fouredges. Pin the layers together near the outer edges, inserting the pins perpendicularto the edges (p. 42). In the center of one side, leave a 7" (18 cm) opening unpinned.

3 Place the fabric under the presser foot, just ahead of the opening. Align the cutedges of the fabric to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance guide on the bed of yourmachine. Remove the pin that marks the opening, before lowering the presser foot.

4 Backstitch three or four stitches; stop. Then, stitching forward, stitch the seam on allfour sides, pivoting with the needle down at the corners. End the seam at the oppositeside of the opening; backstitch three or four stitches.

5 Remove the fabric from the machine. Trim the threads close to the fabric. Press theseams flat to set the stitching line in the fabric. This may seem unnecessary, but itreally does give you a better looking seam in the end.

TIP Most machines have a handy thread cutter located within a fewinches (centimeters) of the presser foot. By using this thread cutter, you arealso pulling enough thread through the needle and up from the bobbin to helpyou prevent a thread jam at the start of your next seam.

6 Turn back the top seam allowance, and press, applying light pressure with tip of theiron down the crease of the seam. In the area of the opening, turn back and press thetop seam allowance 1/2" (1.3 cm).

7 Turn the cover over; turn back and press the remaining opening seam allowance.

8 To turn a perfect corner, fold in the seam allowances from one edge, and then foldin the seam allowances from the adjacent edge over them. Slip four fingers through thepillow opening and pinch the folded corner between your thumb and one finger. Turnthat corner through the opening. Repeat with the other three corners. Your pillowcover has now been turned right side out.

9 Compress and insert the pillow form. Align the pressed edges of the opening, andpin the opening closed. Thread a hand needle and tie a knot in the end.

10 Slipstitch the opening closed, following the instructions on page 49.

tell me morePERFECT CORNER. The corners of your pillow should be sharply squared, not rounded.To improve the appearance of a slightly rounded corner, you can push a pointedutensil into the corner from inside the pillow cover to force the stitches out to thecorner. An inexpensive specialty tool, called a point turner (page 20), works well; oryou can use a chop stick, a ballpoint pen with the ink ball retracted, or somethingsimilar. Use light pressure, though, so that you don’t punch a hole in the corner.

ZIPPER CLOSURESPillows that get tossed around, leaned upon, and slid across the floor need occasionalcleaning. A zipper closure sewn into a seam makes it much easier to remove andreinsert the pillow form. Any knife-edge pillow can be made with a zipper closure.Cut the fabric and prepare the pillow front and back according to the directions in theproject. Then follow these directions to complete the pillow.

Purchase a conventional polyester coil zipper (not a separating style) to match yourfabric, in the size indicated in the chart below.

HOW TO SEW A ZIPPER CLOSURE

1 Place the pillow front over the pillow back, right sides together. Pin the side thatwill have the zipper. Center the zipper alongside the pinned edges, and mark the seamallowances just above and below the zipper stops.

TIP For best results, select a side that was cut on the lengthwise grainof the fabric. The lengthwise grain is more stable and will have less tendencyto stretch as you sew.

2 Stitch a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam from the upper edge to the mark, backstitching at thebeginning and the end. Repeat at the lower edge. Leave the center section open.

ZIPPER PILLOW7" (18 cm) 12" to 14" (30.5 to 35.5 cm)9" (23 cm) 16" to 18" (40.5 to 46 cm)12" (30.5 cm) 20" (51 cm) or larger

3 Machine-baste on the seamline between the marks. Clip the basting stitches every2" (5 cm) with a seam ripper. This will make the stitches easier to remove later

4 Press the seam flat; then press the seam allowances open. Finish the seamallowances with a zigzag stitch (page 46).

TIP If your fabric is loosely woven or tends to ravel easily, repeatedwashings could make the seam allowances ravel away and ruin your pillow. Asa preventative measure, take the time to finish all of the seam allowances.

5 Apply basting tape (page 21) to the right side of the zipper tape, running it alongboth outer edges.

6 Place the zipper facedown over the seam, with the zipper coil directly over thebasted part of the seamline and the pull tab turned down. The zipper coil should becentered between the backstitched areas. Press with your fingers to secure the zipperto the seam allowances.

tell me moreMACHINE-BASTE. Set the machine for the longest straight stitch possible. This stitchingis temporary and will be easily removed later.

7 Spread the pillow pieces flat, right side up. Insert pins in the seamline, just aboveand below the zipper stops. Cut 1/2" (1.3 cm) transparent tape to fit between the pins;place it down the center of the seamline.

8 Attach the zipper foot and adjust it to the left of the needle. If your zipper foot is notadjustable, adjust the needle to the right of the foot. Stitch along the outer edge of thetape, stitching across one end, down one side, and across the other end; pivot at thecorners.

9 Adjust the zipper foot to the right of the needle or adjust your needle to the left of

the foot. Stitch over the previous stitches at one end, down the opposite side, and overthe stitches at the other end. Clip the threads.

10 Remove the tape. Carefully remove the machine basting in the seamline, using aseam ripper.

11 Open the zipper. Pin the pillow front and back, right sides together, along the threeremaining sides. Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam; press. Turn the pillow cover right side outand insert the pillow form through the zipper opening.

BABY BLANKETBlankets serve many purposes in the routine of baby care. Most often they providecomfort, warmth, and security for little tykes. A blanket also provides a soft surfacefor rolling around on the floor or a make-do pad for a quick change when you’re on thego. With easy-to apply blanket binding and synthetic fleece fabric, you can sew upnew blankets in a jiffy. Because the following method involves the use of fabric glue,you’ll want to launder the finished blanket before you use it.

HOW TO SEW A BABY BLANKET

1 Cut a rectangle of fabric 36" × 45" (91.5 × 115 cm). Use a quilting ruler orcarpenter’s square to ensure square corners. In the following steps, unroll the bindingfrom the package as you need it, and don’t cut it until step 7.

TIP Synthetic fleece is actually a knit fabric and is usually 60" (152.5cm) wide. Avoid using either of the selvages as a side of your rectanglebecause they may be slightly stretched out of shape.

MATERIALS

• 1 yd. (0.95 m) synthetic fleece• Satin blanket binding in color to match or coordinate with fabric• Quilting ruler or carpenter’s square• Fabric glue stick (page 20)• Thread to match blanket binding

SKILLS• Apply satin blanket binding• Sew mitered corners• Careful pressing

2 Beginning about 10" (25.5 cm) from one corner and working toward the corner in aclockwise direction, slip the blanket edge between the layers of the binding. Tuck theedge in as close as possible to the binding fold. Insert pins through all the layers,perpendicular to the edge. Space the pins about 2" (5 cm) apart with the headsoutward.

TIP Be sure to keep the binding folded smooth and flat over the edge,so that the outer crease remains sharp. This will ensure that the finishedbinding edges on the front and back of the blanket are perfectly aligned.

3 Set the machine to sew a multistitch zigzag (page 46) at maximum width and 12stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm. Place the blanket under the presser foot at thebinding end, with the inner edge of the binding aligned to the left side of the presserfoot opening. Stitch to the fabric edge, removing pins as you come to them. Stop, andremove the fabric from the machine.

tell me moreLEFT SIDE OF THE PRESSER FOOT OPENING. The opening in the center of the presserfoot is more than wide enough to accommodate the widest stitch your machine cansew. Guide the fabric, keeping a tiny space between the binding edge and the left edgeof the opening. The farthest left stitch of the needle should just stitch off the edge of thebinding. Adjust the position slightly, if necessary.

4 Take the blanket to the ironing board. Open out the binding at the corner, and fold itdown along the next side, so that the fabric edge aligns to the binding fold. A 45° anglewill form in the binding. Press the angle lightly with the tip of the iron.

5 Fold the binding closed so that the angled fold forms a mitered corner. The fold runsdiagonally from the outer corner to the inner corner, matching up perfectly.

6 Flip the blanket over and miter the back of the binding so that the diagonal fold onthe back also lines up perfectly. Using a fabric glue stick (page 20), secure the folds inplace. This is called glue-basting.

7 Encase and pin the blanket edge to the next corner. Place the blanket under thepresser foot, aligning the inner corner of the miter to the left side of the presser footopening. Backstitch two or three stitches. Stitch forward to the fabric edge at the nextcorner. Stop, and remove the blanket from the machine.

8 Repeat steps 4 to 7 for the remaining corners. On the side where you started, cut thebinding 4" (10 cm) beyond the beginning. Open the fold; press under 2" (5 cm) at theend.

9 Refold and finish encasing and pinning the blanket edge. The folded end shouldoverlap the cut end 2" (5 cm). Glue-baste the folded end in place. Stitch the last side,stitching about 1" (2.5 cm) beyond the overlap. Remove the blanket from the machine,and clip the threads.

10 Reset the stitch length to 0. Place the overlapped binding ends under the presserfoot so that the fold is about 1/4" (6 mm) ahead of the presser foot opening. Stitch inplace until the needle has traveled from left to right at least twice. This tacking willkeep the ends in place through many launderings.

tell me moreRESET THE STITCH LENGTH TO 0. The machine will still stitch side to side, as it is stillset for multistitch-zigzag, but the fabric will not move forward.

ELASTIC-WAIST SKIRTSSkirts with elastic waistbands are classic, comfortable, and easy-care. Straight orflared versions in varying lengths can be coordinated with a variety of sweaters orother tops for business, dress, or casual wear.

Check the pattern envelope for recommended fabrics. Some patterns are designedonly for knits and generally fit the body closer, counting on the stretchiness of thefabric to allow you to slide the skirt over your hips. Patterns suitable for wovenfabrics will include extra fullness. The first set of directions works for woven or knitfabrics. Alternate steps for sewing with knits begin on page 86. These directions maydiffer from your pattern; be sure to use the seam allowance given in your pattern.Select a pattern with two pieces: a front and a back. An elastic casing at the waistlineis formed from excess fabric length at the skirt top. The skirt itself may be constructedof two, three, or four sections, depending on whether or not there are center front orback seams.

HOW TO SEW A PULL-ON SKIRT

1 To construct the skirt following these directions, 23/4" (7 cm) of fabric must beallowed for the casing above the waistline. This may be different from the casingallowance already on your pattern. Measure this distance from the waistline, and marka cutting line on your pattern. (Add extra paper, if necessary.) Be sure to mark bothfront and back pattern pieces.

MATERIALS• Skirt pattern with elastic waistline• Fabric (check pattern for amount)• Matching all-purpose thread• 1" (2.5 cm) nonroll elastic, enough to go around your waist

SKILLS• Sew elastic waistlines• Hem a skirt• Sew and finish seams

2 Prepare the fabric (page 25), lay out the pattern (page 32), and cut the fabric (page36). Transfer any necessary marks (page 37). Insert a size 11/70 or 12/80 sharp oruniversal sewing machine needle. If your pattern does not have center front or backseams, move on to step 4. If your pattern has a center front seam, place the skirt frontpieces right sides together, aligning the center cut edges and matching the notches.Insert pins perpendicular to the center front seam.

TIP Be sure you are not pinning the pieces together along the sideseams. Sometimes it is difficult to tell the difference. Check your pattern to besure.

3 Place the fabric under the presser foot with the cut edges aligned to the 5/8" (1.5 cm)seam allowance guide. Stitch the center front seam, backstitching a few stitches at theupper and lower edges. If your pattern has a center back seam, stitch it in the samemanner.

TIP If your skirt has side seam pockets, follow the pattern directionscarefully because methods vary greatly.

4 Place the front and back skirt pieces right sides together, aligning the side edges andmatching the notches. Insert pins perpendicular to the sides (p. 43). Stitch the sideseams, backstitching at the upper and lower edges, and removing pins as you come tothem (p. 43). If you are sewing on a woven fabric, finish (page 46) the edges of all theseam allowances.

5 Press all the seams flat to set the stitching line in the fabric. This may seemunnecessary, but it really does give you a better-looking seam in the end. Then pressthe seam allowances open.

TIP To prevent the cut edge of the seam allowance from imprinting thefront of the fabric, press seams open over a seam roll or hard cardboard tube.

6 Baste the seam allowances open flat from the upper edge down about 4" (10 cm)(arrow). This will keep them from getting in the way when you insert the elastic instep 9. Finish the waistline edge, using a multistitch-zigzag (page 46). Fold the upperedge 11/2" (3.8 cm) to the wrong side, and press. Insert pins along and perpendicularto the fold.

7 Edgestitch close to the fold around the upper edge of the waistline. Begin and end ata side seam, overlapping the stitches about 1/2" (1.3 cm).

8 Insert pins along the lower edge of the casing. Place a piece of tape on the bed ofyour machine 11/4" (3.2 cm) from the tip of the needle. Stitch the lower edge of thecasing, guiding the upper edge along the tape. Leave a 2" (5 cm) opening at one sideseam.

TIP Sometimes it is difficult to tell the skirt front from the back whenthe garment is finished. We’ve sewn a short loop of twill tape under the casingseam to identify the back.

9 Fasten a safety pin or bodkin (page 19) to one end of the elastic, and insert theelastic through the casing opening. Push and pull the safety pin all the way to theopposite side of the opening. Remove the basting threads from step 6.

TIP Insert a large safety pin across the free end of the elastic so that itwill not get pulled into the opening.

10 Try on the skirt. Pull up the elastic to fit your waist snugly, yet comfortably; pinthe ends together. Take off the skirt, and trim the overlapped ends to 1/2" (1.3 cm), ifnecessary.

11 Pull the pinned ends of the elastic several inches (centimeters) out of the casing.Place them under the presser foot, and stitch through both layers, using a multistitch-

zigzag. To reinforce, stitch again.

12 Machine-stitch the opening in the casing closed. Distribute the casing fullnessevenly around the elastic. Stitch in the ditch at the seams (arrow) to keep the elasticfrom shifting or rolling.

13 Try on the skirt, and have someone mark the hem length for you, using chalk orpins. Take off the skirt, and trim the hem allowance to an even depth. (Check thepattern for hem allowance.) Turn under the hem along the markings, and pin. Press.For double-fold hems on slightly flared skirts, it is helpful to hand-baste on the innerfold.

14 Stitch the hem by hand (page 52) or by machine (page 53); select a method thatwill allow the hem to stretch, if you are using a knit. Give the skirt a final pressing,and give yourself a pat on the back.

tell me moreSTITCH IN THE DITCH. Stitching from the right side and using short stitches, stitchdirectly into the well of the seam. Your stitches will practically disappear.

MARK THE HEM LENGTH. During the marking, stand straight, wearing the shoesyou will be wearing with the skirt. The person marking should measure up from thefloor to the desired length, moving around you as necessary. Otherwise, the hem willbe uneven. If you don’t have help, turn up the hem to the desired length all the wayaround and check in a mirror for even length.

ALTERNATE STEPS FOR A KNIT PULL-ON SKIRT

1 To construct a knit skirt following these directions, an amount of fabric equal totwice the width of the elastic must be allowed above the waistline. Measure thisdistance from the waistline, and mark a new cutting line on your pattern. (Add extrapaper, if necessary.) Be sure to mark both front and back pattern pieces. Follow steps2 to 5 on pages 82 and 83, sewing with the seam allowances designated by yourpattern. It is not necessary to finish seams on knit skirts.

TIP Read your pattern directions. Some patterns, especially those thathave 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances, instruct you to sew your elastic waistlinewith this method. There is no need to alter those patterns, as they alreadyallow this amount of fabric at the top.

2 Cut a piece of elastic that fits your waist snugly, yet still stretch to fit over yourhips. Overlap the ends 1/2" (1.3 cm), and stitch them together, using a wide zigzagstitch or multistitch-zigzag. Divide both the elastic and the upper edge of the skirt intofourths, and pin-mark. Pin the elastic to the wrong side of the skirt, aligning the edgesand matching the pin marks; insert the pins perpendicular to the edges.

3 Insert four more pins, evenly spaced, between the quarter marks, distributing thefabric fullness evenly. Set your machine for a medium-width multistitch-zigzag. Placethe skirt under the presser foot with the elastic on top. Align the edge of the foot to theelastic and fabric edges. Stitch, stretching the elastic to fit between the pins andkeeping the edges aligned. Remove pins as you come to them, stopping with the needledown in the fabric.

4 Fold the elastic to the wrong side of the skirt, so the fabric encases the elastic. Fromthe right side of the skirt, stitch in the ditch (p. 85) of the seam through all thewaistband layers, at each seam. This step makes step 5 easier.

TIP Stretch the waistband slightly to give yourself a clear view of yourtarget.

5 With the right side facing up, topstitch through all layers of the waistband, stretchingthe elastic as you sew. Use either a zigzag or multistitch-zigzag, with medium widthand length, and stitch near the lower edge of the elastic. These stitches will allow theskirt to stretch as it goes over your hips. Finish the skirt, following steps 13 and 14 onpage 85.

tell me moreTWICE THE WIDTH OF THE ELASTIC. For this method, 1" (2.5 cm) elastic works well,though you may decide to use a different width. Some specialty elastics have channelsfor topstitching, giving the look of multiple rows.

STRETCHING THE ELASTIC TO FIT BETWEEN THE PINS. Grasp the fabricand elastic behind the presser foot with one hand and ahead of the presser foot withthe other hand, working in small sections at a time. Stretch the elastic only far enoughto take up the slack in the fabric. Keep an even tension on the elastic, allowing thefeed dogs to feed the fabric at a steady pace. Stop sewing to move your hands.

ELASTIC-WAIST PANTSPull-on pants with elastic waists are easy to fit and easy to sew. When sewn in supple,lightweight wovens, such as rayon or microfiber, they are elegant enough for eveningwear. For sportier looks, cotton, cotton blends, linen, or seersucker work well and canbe paired with simple T-shirts or blouses. Consider purchasing enough fabric to makea matching jacket to go with your pants and complete the outfit.

Select a pants pattern with two main pieces: the front and the back. The elasticcasing for the waist is formed from excess fabric at the top. These instructions are forpants without pockets. The method for sewing side-seam pockets varies from patternto pattern. Once you understand the basics of sewing pull-on pants, you can advance toa pattern with pockets, following the pattern instructions closely.

MATERIALS• Pants pattern; loose-fitting with elastic waistline• Fabric (check pattern for amount)• Matching all-purpose thread• 3/8" (1 cm) elastic, enough to go twice around your waist

SKILLS• Alter the crotch length of a pattern• Alter the leg length of a pattern• Make a multi-row elastic waistband

The waistband casing on these pants is divided in half with a stitching line to accommodate two elastic strips.

HOW TO SEW PULL-ON PANTS

1 Measure the length of the crotch seam on a pair of pants that you know fitscomfortably. Start from the bottom of the waistband in the front and measure thedistance around the crotch to the bottom of the waistband in the back. On your pattern,measure the total crotch length, standing the tape measure on edge and measuring alongthe seamline of the center front and center back. Begin and end at the waistline mark;don’t include the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances at the inseam.

2 Compare the pants crotch length to the pattern crotch length. Alter your pattern, ifnecessary. Cut the pattern pieces apart on the horizontal adjustment line. Then lap thepieces by half the total amount needed to shorten (left), or separate the pieces byhalf the total amount needed to lengthen (right). Insert a paper strip to lengthen; tapethe pieces in place.

3 Next, compare the inseam measurements on your pants and on your pattern,measuring from the crotch seamline to the hemline. Make any necessary alteration atthe horizontal adjustment line.

4 To construct the pants following these directions, 23/4" (7 cm) of fabric must beallowed for the casing above the waistline. Measure this distance from the waistline,and mark a new cutting line on your pattern. (Add extra paper, if necessary.) Be sureto mark both front and back pattern pieces.

5 Prepare the fabric (page 25), lay out the pattern (page 32), and cut the fabric (page36). Transfer any necessary marks (page 37). Set your sewing machine on a straightstitch of 10 to 12 stitches per inch, which is 2 to 2.5 mm. Insert a sewing machineneedle suitable for your fabric (page 12). Place the right front over the right back, rightsides together, along the inner leg. Pin them together, matching notches and insertingthe pins perpendicular to the edges (p.43). Stitch the seam, using 5/8" (1.5 cm) seamallowance unless your pattern indicates another seam allowance. Repeat for the leftfront and back legs.

6 Finish the edges of the seam allowances (page 46). Press the seams flat; then pressthem open.

tell me moreBY HALF THE TOTAL AMOUNT NEEDED. For example, if you need to shorten the crotch1" (2.5 cm), shorten the pants front 1/2" (1.3 cm), and shorten the pants back 1/2" (1.3cm).

7 With right sides together, pin the sewn right and left pants sections together at thecrotch seam. Line up the inner leg seams, and match any notches. Stitch the entireseam. Then stitch the curved area of the seam between the notches a second time, 1/4"(6 mm) from the first stitching.

8 Trim the seam in the curved area of the crotch close to the second stitching line.Finish the trimmed seam allowances. Then also finish the remaining seam allowancesseparately. Press the seam allowances open in the front and back, above the trimmedportion of the seam.

9 Pin the front and back, right sides together, at the side seams, matching notches andany other marks. Stitch a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam from the bottom of the leg to the upperedge. Repeat for the other side seam.

10 Finish the seam allowances separately. Press the seams flat; then press them open,using a seam roll. Baste all the seam allowances open flat from the upper edge downabout 4" (10 cm). This will keep them from getting in the way when you insert theelastic in step 15.

11 Finish the waistline (page 46). Fold the upper edge 11/2" (3.8 cm) to the wrongside, and press. Insert pins along and perpendicular to the fold.

12 Edgestitch (p. 63) close to the fold around the upper edge of the waistline. Beginand end at a side seam, overlapping the stitches about 1/2" (1.3 cm).

13 Place a piece of tape on the bed of your machine 11/4" (3.2 cm) from the tip of theneedle. Stitch the lower edge of the casing, guiding the upper edge along the tape.Leave a 2" (5 cm) opening at one side seam.

14 Measure from the upper edge of the waist to a point halfway between the twostitching lines. Place tape on the machine bed as a sewing guide. Stitch, leaving a 2"(5 cm) opening just above the first opening.

TIP To use three rows of 1/4" (6 mm) elastic in your waistline casing,divide the space into even thirds.

15 Cut two pieces of 3/8" (1 cm) elastic a little larger than your waist measurement.Fasten a safety pin or bodkin (page 19) to one end of one elastic, and insert the elasticthrough the casing opening into the top channel. Push and pull the safety pin through allthe way to the opposite side of the opening, taking care not to let the free enddisappear into the opening. Then do the same with the second piece of elastic,inserting it into the lower channel. Secure the ends of both pieces with safety pins.

16 Try on the pants. Pull up the elastic to fit your waist snugly, yet comfortably; pinthe ends together. Take off the pants. Pull the pinned ends of the top elastic severalinches (centimeters) out of the casing. Trim the overlapped ends to 1/2" (1.3 cm), ifnecessary. Place them under the presser foot, and stitch through both layers, using amultistitch-zigzag. Repeat for the lower elastic.

17 Machine-stitch the openings in the casing closed. Distribute the casing fullnessevenly around the elastic. Stitch in the ditch (p. 85) at the seams to keep the elasticfrom shifting or rolling. Remove the basting stitches from step 10.

18 Turn under the hem allowance, and pin in place. Try on the pants, and adjust thelength, if necessary. Take off the pants, and trim the hem allowance to an even depth.Press the fold. Finish the lower edge. Stitch the hem by hand (page 52) or by machine(page 53). Give the pants a final pressing, and they’re ready to wear!

T-SHIRTST-shirts are classic and versatile; it seems you can never have too many. As youbecome more experienced, you’ll be surprised how quickly you are able to makethem. The fun begins in selecting your knit fabric (page 23) from the array of stripes,prints, and colorful solids available.

To help you decide which pattern to buy, note the way the t-shirts fit the models orsketches on the pattern envelope front. Some patterns are designed for an oversizedlook, others are meant to fit your body more closely. Your pattern should have fourpieces: front, back, sleeve, and neck ribbing. Some may also have a piece for sleeveribbing.

The fit of the T-shirt will vary with the fabric’s degree of stretch. T-shirt patterns,designed for knits only, indicate the amount of stretch required of the fabric. Forinstance, “25% stretch crosswise” would indicate that 4" (10 cm) of fabric willstretch on the crosswise grain an additional 1" (2.5 cm). Always test the degree ofstretch in the fabric, especially if you are making a close-fitting T-shirt.

MATERIALS• T-shirt pattern (designed for stretch knits)• Knit fabric (check pattern for amount)• Scraps of fusible knit interfacing (page 19)• Ribbing (check pattern for amount)• Matching all-purpose thread

SKILLS• Sew with knit fabric• Sew in sleeves• Apply ribbing to a neckline

HOW TO SEW A T-SHIRT

1 Prepare the fabric (page 25); however, don’t wash the ribbing, as the raw edges arelikely to stretch out of shape. T-shirts are easiest to sew using 1/4" (6 mm) seamallowances. If your pattern pieces have 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances, trim themdown to 1/4" (6 mm) before laying out the pattern. Lay out the pattern (page 32), andcut the fabric (page 36). Transfer any necessary marks (page 37). Insert a ballpointsewing machine needle; size 11/70 or 12/80 is suitable for most knits. Cut two 1/2"(1.3 cm) strips of fusible interfacing the length of the shoulder seam. Place a strip evenwith the cut edge of each back shoulder, on the wrong side of the fabric. Fuse thestrips in place, following the manufacturer’s directions. This is done to stabilize theshoulder seams.

TIP The interfacing bolt is wrapped with a long sheet of plastic onwhich the directions are printed. Have the store clerk cut off a section of the

directions for you to take home.

2 Place the T-shirt front over the back, right sides together, aligning the shoulder seamallowance edges. Pin, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges. Stitch the front andback T-shirt sections together at the shoulder seams, using a 1/4" (6 mm) seamallowance; backstitch a few stitches at each edge. Since the shoulder seams arestabilized, a straight stitch is appropriate here.

3 Add a second row of machine stitching (either a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag)next to the first row, within the seam allowance. Press the shoulder seam allowancestoward the shirt back.

4 Mark the center front and center back of the neckline with pins. Then bring the twocenters together and mark the points halfway between with pins. (these marks shouldbe slightly ahead of the shoulder seams.) The neckline is now divided into fourths.

5 Sew the short ends of the ribbing, right sides together, forming a circle. Use 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance, and sew with a short straight stitch. Press the seam open withyour fingers. Avoid pressing ribbing with an iron, as this may destroy its elasticity.

6 Fold the ribbing in half, lengthwise, with the raw edges even and the seamallowances on the inside. Divide the ribbing into fourths, as you did the neckline.Mark these sections with pins.

tell me moreSTABILIZE THE SHOULDER SEAMS. Shoulder seams follow the crosswise grain, thedirection in which knit fabrics stretch the most. However, it is not desirable ornecessary to have shoulder seams that stretch. Narrow strips of fusible interfacinghelp the seams keep their intended length. You’ll also find that this makes sewing inthe stretchy direction much easier.

RIBBING, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Sometimes knit fabrics and ribbings donot have a right or wrong side. To test, gently stretch the raw edge on the crosswisegrain of the ribbing. If the edge curls to one side, that side is the right side of thefabric. If it doesn’t curl to either side, either side can be used on the outside.

7 Pin the ribbing to the right side of the neckline, aligning the ribbing seam to thecenter back pin mark; match up the remaining pin marks.

8 Place the fabric under the presser foot, with the ribbing facing up. Stitch with anarrow zigzag or stretch stitch (page 47), keeping the raw edges even and stretchingthe ribbing evenly to fit each section between pins. Remove the pins as you come to

them.

9 Stitch again next to the first row, using a narrow, medium-length zigzag stitch.Gently press the ribbing toward the shirt, being careful not to stretch the ribbing.

10 Make sure you have marked the top of the sleeve and any other notches on thesleeve and shirt as indicated on the pattern pieces. With right sides together, pin the

sleeve to the armhole of the shirt, matching the top dot or notch to the shoulder seam,and aligning any other notches. Pin frequently, easing in any extra sleeve fullness.

11 Stitch the armhole seam, using a narrow, medium-length zigzag stitch; remove thepins as you come to them. Stitch again next to the first row, within the seam allowance.

12 Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the other sleeve. Press the seams toward the sleeves.

With the right sides together, pin the shirt front to the shirt back along the sides andsleeves, matching the underarm seams.

13 Stitch and finish the seams in the same manner as for the sleeve seams, beginningat the lower edge of the shirt and sewing continuously to the lower edge of the sleeve.Press the seams toward the back.

TIP You can press the side seams, simply by slipping the shirt over theend of the ironing board. Insert a seam roll or sleeve board (page 18) into thesleeve, so you can press the seam allowance to the side without pressingunwanted creases into the opposite side of the sleeve.

14 Turn under the lower hem allowance, as specified by your pattern. Stitch the hemby hand (page 52) or by machine (page 53); select a method that will allow the hem tostretch, if necessary. Hem the lower edges of the sleeves in the same manner.

tell me moreHEM ALLOWANCE. The pattern has allowed a predetermined extra length for turningunder and finishing the sleeves and lower edge. This amount is indicated on yourpattern.

APRON WITH POCKETSWith the renewed interest in cooking and retro fashions, aprons have made a grandcomeback. Made from a washable fabric with a fun print, this apron has a skirtgathered to a waistband with ties attached. Contrasting fabric was used for thepockets, waistband, and ties. Rickrack trim applied to the pockets and skirt hem givethe apron a retro look.

This style is made from six rectangles of fabric: a large rectangle for the skirt, twosmaller rectangles for the pockets, two long narrow rectangles for ties, and one for thewaistband. You don’t need to buy a commercial pattern, you can simply measure andmark out the pieces on your fabric and cut them out.

HOW TO SEW AN APRON

1 Prepare the fabric (page 25). Lay out the fabric in a single layer. Using acarpenter’s square or quilter’s ruler, measure and mark out the rectangles listedbelow. Mark the skirt piece on one fabric; mark the waistband, pockets, and ties on theother fabric. Do not use a selvage as one of the sides. Cut out the pieces.

DIMENSIONS FOR APRON PIECESSkirt 20" long × 30" wide (50.8 x 76.2 cm)2 pockets 81/2" long x 71/2" wide (21.6 x 19.2 cm)Waistband 41/2" x 20" (11.4 x 50.8 cm)2 ties 41/2" x 28" (11.4 x 71.1 cm)Waistband interfacing 2" x 19" (5.1 x 48.3 cm)

MATERIALS

• 5/8 yd. (0.6 m) lightweight woven fabric for skirt• 1/2 yd. (0.5 m) lightweight contrasting fabric for pockets, waistband, and ties• Lightweight fusible interfacing, 2" × 19" (5.1 × 48.3 cm)• Matching all-purpose thread• 1 package of wide rick rack• Glue stick

SKILLS• Gathering fabric• Sewing a waistband• Sewing double-fold hems• Sewing a patch pocket• Applying decorative trims

2 Fold upper edge of one pocket piece 1" (2.5 cm) to the wrong side and press.Unfold the edge and turn the raw edge in to meet the pressed fold; press again. Thenrefold the edge, and press again, forming a double-fold facing. Repeat for the otherpocket.

3 Turn the facing to the right side of the pocket, even with the bottom fold. Pin thelayers together at the sides. Starting at the top of the pocket, stitch a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seamto the bottom of the facing on each side of the pocket, backstitching at the beginningand end. Trim the corners diagonally. Trim the facing seam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm)

4 Turn the facing to the inside. Using a point turner or similar tool, gently push out thecorners to square them off. Press the top fold; the facing should be 1/2" (1.3 cm) wide.Fold in the sides 1/2" (1.3 cm), and press. To square the bottom corners, turn under 1/2"(1.3 cm) on the bottom, and press.

tell me moreTRIM THE UPPER CORNERS DIAGONALLY. This minimizes the excess bulk to form asmoother corner when the piece is turned back to the inside.

5 Find the 3/8" (1 cm) seam guide on the throat plate. For easier guiding, mark thisdistance from the needle on the machine bed, using tape. Topstitch the upper edge ofthe pocket, guiding the fold along the tape mark and catching the facing in the stitches.

6 Cut rick rack the width of the pocket plus 11/4" (3.2 cm). Apply glue stick to theback of the rick rack. Place the rick rack over the facing stitching line, wrapping theends to the underside of the pocket. Stitch down the center of the rick rack,backstitching at the sides of the pocket. Repeat for other pocket.

7 Place the pockets on the apron skirt 91/2" (24.1 cm) from the long bottom edge and6" (15.2 cm) from the sides. Make sure the pocket edges are parallel to the skirt edges.Pin the sides and bottom edges of the pockets to the skirt, inserting the pinsperpendicular to the pocket edges.

8 With a pencil or erasable fabric marker, draw a small triangle in each upper cornerof each pocket, 1/8" (3 mm) from the top and side edges. Place the skirt under thepresser foot with the top of the pocket toward you, aligning the needle to start sewingat the lowest point of the triangle. Stitch forward two stitches, then backstitch twostitches. Now stitch diagonally to the top, pivot, and stitch a few stitches across thetop of the triangle. Pivot again so the needle is now aligned to stitch down the side ofthe pocket. Edgestitch around the sides and the bottom of the pocket, and finish withthe triangle on the opposite corner, again backstitching two stitches.

TIP Apron pockets are used frequently. Stitching triangles at the topcorners reinforces them better than merely backstitching, which can put morestrain on the skirt fabric beneath the pocket.

9 Turn under the lower edge of the skirt 2" (5.1 cm) and press. Unfold the edge andturn the raw edge in to meet the pressed fold; press again. Refold the edge, forming a1" (2.5 cm) double-fold hem. Insert pins perpendicular to the folds.

10 At the bottom corner of the skirt, turn the hem to the right side, keeping the innerfold in place. Pin the layers together at the sides. Stitch a 1" (2.5 cm) seam across thehem, backstitching at the beginning and end. Trim the corner diagonally. Turn thecorner right side out. Repeat for other side.

11 Fold and press 1/2" (1.3 cm) double-fold hems in the skirt sides, making the firstfold 1" (2.5 cm) deep. Insert pins perpendicular to the folds.

12 Place the skirt, right side down, under the presser foot with the bulk of the fabricto the left of the machine. Beginning at the top of the side hem, stitch along the innerfold, removing pins as you come to them. Pivot at the top fold of the bottom hem, andstitch along the hem fold to the opposite side. Pivot again, and stitch along the innerfold of the other side hem to the skirt top.

13 Cut rick rack the width of the skirt plus 11/4" (3.2 cm). Apply rickrack over thestitching line of the bottom hem, following step 6.

14 Set your machine to sew long straight stitches. Beginning at one side hem, baste ascant 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the top edge of the skirt. Stitch from the right side of thefabric. Stop stitching at the opposite side hem. Stitch another row of long stitches 1/4"(6 mm) closer to the edge. Leave thread tails at each end. Set the skirt aside.

tell me moreDOUBLE-FOLD HEM. Double-fold hems are made with two folds of equal depths,encasing the cut edge in the crease of the outer fold. Pressing the first fold to the totalhem depth allows you to be more accurate in turning and pressing.

15 Fold a tie lengthwise, with right sides together and raw edges even. Insert pinsperpendicular to the edges. Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam across one end of the tie and thelong edge. Trim corners diagonally. Repeat for the other tie. Turn the ties right sideout. Press. Topstitch 1/8" (3 mm) from outside edges. Set the ties aside.

16 Press the waistband in half lengthwise, and unfold. Place the interfacing strip,fusible side down, on the wrong side of the waistband, aligning one long edge to thecenter crease and centering the strip lengthwise. Fuse the interfacing in place.

17 Press under 3/8" (1 cm) on the long unfused edge of the waistband. Mark the cutedge of the waistband 1/2" (1.3 cm) from each end. Then divide the waistband intofour equal parts, and mark, using chalk pencil or erasable marker. Also divide theupper edge of the skirt into four equal parts, and mark.

18 With right sides together, pin the cut edge of the waistband to the upper edge of theskirt, matching quarter marks. Insert pins from the skirt side. At one end, grasp both ofthe bobbin threads, and pull on them with equal tension, sliding the fabric along thethread to gather it.

19 Keep pulling on the bobbin threads, gathering the fabric, and distributing thegathers evenly between the pins on half of the waistband. When the skirt fabric isgathered up to fit that half, secure the bobbin threads by winding them in a figure eightaround the end pin.

20 Pull the bobbin threads from the other end to gather the remaining half; secure thethreads. Distribute all the gathered fabric evenly along the waistband, inserting pinsfrequently to hold the fabric in place.

tell me moreTURN THE TIES RIGHT SIDE OUT. There are special tools for turning narrow tubesinside out. Look for them at the fabric store. Because this is a frequently required taskin sewing, it is worth it to buy one of these tools. In a pinch, you can probably get thejob done by working the fabric over the eraser end of a pencil or a wooden spoonhandle, but it’s much harder to do.

21 Reset the stitch length for 10 to 12 stitches per inch, which is 2 to 2.5 mm. Placethe fabric under the presser foot, the waistband on the bottom. Stitch the waist seam1/2" (1.3 cm) from the raw edges. Keep the gathers even and remove pins as you cometo them.

22 Trim the seam allowances just above the gathering stitches.

23 Turn the seam allowance toward the waistband, and press lightly with the tip ofthe iron. Avoid pressing creases into the gathers.

24 Pin the ties to the short ends of the waistband, right sides together. Fold the centercrease of the waistband in the opposite direction over the ties, right sides together.Stitch a 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam across each end of the waistband. Trim the seams and clipthe corners diagonally.

25 Turn the waistband right side out, encasing the raw ends of the ties. Press. Thefolded edge should extend down over the seam on the wrong side. From the right side,pin in the ditch of the waistband seam, catching the folded edge on the back.

TIP Be sure to keep the seam allowance turned up as it was pressed.Check to be sure the folded edge of the waistband is pinned at a consistentdepth and lies flat.

26 Stitch in the ditch (p. 85) of the seam from the right side of the skirt,backstitching at the ends of the waistband and removing pins as you come to them. Becareful not to catch the ties in the stitching.

UNLINED JACKETSCollarless jackets are versatile additions to any wardrobe. Those that are loose-fittingand unlined, with drop-shoulder styling and patch pockets, are easy to make. Look fora pattern that includes pieces for front, back, sleeve, front facing, back facing, andpocket.

these directions are for square bottom front corners. If your pattern has roundcorners, pay close attention to the pattern directions when attaching the facing (step11) and hemming the lower edge (steps 24 to 27). As with any other project, the fabricof your jacket will determine whether it will be more suitable for casual, business, ordress. Cotton, cotton blends, and denim would be good choices to wear with jeans orcasual slacks and skirts. Wool, wool blends, linen, and rayon work for business ordress. When you’re feeling really confident, you might even consider making a jacketof suit-weight silk, like the one at left.

MATERIALS• Jacket pattern; unlined, loose-fitting• Fabric for jacket (check pattern for amount)• Matching all-purpose thread• Lightweight fusible interfacing (check pattern for amount)• Buttons

SKILLS• Sew a drop-shoulder sleeve• Sew a patch pocket• Apply fusible interfacing• Sew neck and front facings

HOW TO SEW AN UNLINED JACKET

1 Prepare the fabric (page 25). Lay out the pattern pieces (page 32), and cut out (page36) all but the facings. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric for the facings,following the manufacturer’s directions (p. 98). Then cut out the facings. Transfer anynecessary marks (page 37).

2 Turn under the top edge of the pocket 1/4" (6 mm); press. To finish the edge, set yourmachine for a zigzag stitch of medium length and width. Stitch close to the foldededge, so that the right-hand swing of the needle just clears the fold.

3 Turn the upper edge of the pocket (the facing) to the outside on the foldline; pin atthe sides. Starting at the top of the pocket, stitch a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam to the bottom ofthe facing on each side of the pocket, backstitching at the beginning and end. Trim thefacing seam allowance to 3/8" (1 cm). Trim the upper corners diagonally.

4 Turn the facing to the inside. Using a point turner or similar tool, gently push out thecorners to square them off. Press the top fold. If the pocket has square bottom corners,turn under 5/8" (1.5 cm) on the bottom, and press. Then repeat for the side edges.

5 Set your sewing machine for a straight stitch of 10 to 12 stitches per inch, which is 2to 2.5 mm. Measure the finished width of the facing; subtract 1/8" (3 mm). Mark thisdistance from the needle on the machine bed, using tape. Topstitch the upper edge ofthe pocket, guiding the fold along the tape mark and catching the facing in the stitches.

6 Repeat steps 2 to 5 for the other pocket. Place the pockets on the jacket front,matching the upper corners to the markings transferred from the pattern. Pin themsecurely in place, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges (p. 43). Edgestitcharound the sides and bottom of the pockets, backstitching at both upper corners. Stopwith the needle down in the fabric to pivot at each corner. Remove the pins as youcome to them (p. 43).

7 Pin the jacket fronts to the jacket back at the shoulders, with right sides together,aligning the cut edges and matching any notches. Insert the pins perpendicular to theedges.

8 Stitch the seams, guiding the cut edges along the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowanceguide. Press the seams flat; then press them open.

9 Sew the front facings to the back facing at the shoulders as in steps 7 and 8. Trim theseam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm). Finish the inner, unnotched edges of the front facingsand the lower edge of the back facing (arrows) as in step 2.

10 Pin the facing to the jacket, right sides together, aligning the cut edges. Match theshoulder seams and all notches. At the shoulders, insert a pin in the wells of theseams, to keep them aligned.

11 Stitch the facing to the jacket, guiding the cut edges along the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seamallowance guide. Stitch continuously from one lower edge, around the neckline, to theopposite lower edge; backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end. Remove thepins as you come to them, and keep the shoulder seam allowances open flat.

12 Grade the seam allowances by trimming the jacket neckline seam allowance to3/8" (1 cm) and the facing seam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm). Clip into the neckline seamallowance every 1/2" (1.3 cm), clipping up to, but not through, the stitches. Clippingallows the facing to turn smoothly to the inside and lie flat.

13 Press the seam allowances flat; then press them toward the facing. With the rightside up, place the facing (A) under the presser foot, so the needle is aligned to enterthe fabric just to the right of the seam at the lower left front; the jacket (B) extends offthe left of the machine bed. Keeping the seam allowance turned toward the facing(arrows), stitch all around the fronts and neckline very close to the seam. You will bestitching through the facing and the seam allowance, but not through the jacket. Thisstep, called understitching, helps the facing lie flat.

TIP Along the curve of the neckline, keep the facing lying flat,allowing the jacket to “bunch up” to the left of the curve. Stitch, following thecurve of the facing. The clipped seam allowance will “fan out” underneath thefacing.

14 Turn the facing to the inside; press. Align the shoulder seams, and smooth them outto the sleeve edge. Pin the facing to the sleeve edge, inserting the pins perpendicular tothe edge. Set your machine for long straight stitches. Baste the facings to the sleeveedges.

TIP Some jacket patterns have facings that do not extend all the way tothe sleeve edge. Align the shoulder seam allowances, and stitch in the ditch (p.85) to secure the facing to the jacket.

15 Pin the sleeve to the jacket, with right sides together. Align the cut edges, andmatch the notches. You probably also have a mark on the sleeve edge that aligns to thejacket shoulder seam. Count the notches to be sure you are pinning the correct sleeve.Pin frequently from the jacket side, easing the sleeve to fit smoothly.

16 Place the jacket under the presser foot, with the sleeve underneath. Stitch theseam, guiding the edges along the 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance guide. Remove thepins as you come to them.

17 Check from the sleeve side, to be sure there are no puckers. If there are any, clipthe stitches, using a seam ripper, and remove the stitches on either side of the puckerfar enough to smooth it out; restitch.

18 Stitch a second line in the seam allowances, 1/4" (6 mm) from the first stitchingline, from the notches to each end. Trim the seam allowances in this area close to thesecond stitching line.

19 Repeat steps 15 to 18 for the opposite sleeve. Set your machine for a medium-length, medium-width zigzag stitch. For each sleeve, finish the seam allowance edgestogether, stitching so that the right swing of the needle just clears the fabric edge. Pressthe seam allowances toward the sleeves.

20 Pin the jacket front to the jacket back, right sides together, along the side seamsand extending on to the underarm sleeve seams. Match notches, and align the sleeveseams. Insert the pins perpendicular to the edges.

21 Stitch 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam from the bottom of one side continuously to the end of thesleeve. Keep the underarm seam allowances turned toward the sleeve. Repeat for theopposite side.

22 Finish the side and underarm seam allowances as in step 2. Press the seamallowances flat; then press them open.

TIP Press the seam allowances open over a seam roll to preventimprinting the seam allowance edges onto the right side of the jacket and tomake it easier to press the sleeve seams open.

23 Finish the lower edge of the jacket as in step 2. Repeat for the lower edges of thesleeves. Turn under the remaining hem allowances on the sleeves, and press, using aseam roll or sleeve board (page 18). Slipstitch (page 52) the hems to the jacket.

24 Place the jacket on your ironing board, wrong side up; open the front facings. Turnunder the remaining hem allowance on the lower edge, including the facings; press.

25 Unfold the lower edge. Turn the jacket over, and turn the facing to the outside,aligning the lower edges. Pin, keeping the facing seam allowances turned toward thefacing. Stitch the facing to the jacket, stitching in the well of the pressed fold. Repeatfor the opposite side.

26 Trim the facing seam allowance to within 1/4" (6 mm) of the stitches. Trim thecorner diagonally, to within 1/8" (3 mm) of the corner stitch. Repeat for the oppositeside. Turn the facings to the inside, and press.

27 Refold the remaining hem, and pin. Slipstitch the hem to the jacket. At the fronts,slipstitch the facings to the hem.

28 Topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the edges along the fronts and neckline of the jacket, ifdesired. If your jacket has buttons, transfer the buttonhole placement marks from yourpattern to the right jacket front. Make buttonholes, following the directions in yoursewing machine owner’s manual. Transfer the button placement marks to the left front.Sew buttons as on page 50 or 51.

GlossaryBACKSTITCHING. Taking a few backward stitches at the beginning and end of yourstitching line prevents the stitches from pulling out. The method for backstitchingvaries with each sewing machine. You may need to lift and hold your stitch lengthlever, push in and hold a button, or simply touch an icon. Check your owner’s manual.

BASTE. Long, easy-to-remove stitches are sewn into the fabric temporarily, either byhand or by machine. Hand-basting stitches are used to hold layers of fabric and battingtogether for quilting. Machine-basting stitches are used to close a seam beforeinserting a zipper. They are also used to gather a section of fabric into a smallerspace.

BIAS. Any diagonal line intersecting the lengthwise and crosswise grains of fabric isreferred to as bias. While woven fabric does not stretch on the lengthwise andcrosswise grains, it has considerable stretch on the bias.

CASING. A fabric tunnel is sewn into the garment, often at the waistline, to carryelastic or cording.

CLIP. Small, closely spaced cuts are made into the seam allowances of a garment orother project, usually along a curve or into a corner. When the item is turned right sideout, the seam allowances can spread apart and lie flat where they have been clipped.Small clips are also used for marking the location of notches or dots from the pattern.

COURSES. Corresponding to the crosswise grain of a woven fabric, the courses of aknit fabric run perpendicular to the selvages and ribs. Knit fabrics are most stretchy inthe direction of the courses.

CROSSWISE GRAIN. on woven fabric, the crosswise grain runs perpendicular tothe selvages. Fabric has slight “give” in the crosswise grain.

DROP LENGTH is the length of a tablecloth from the edge of the table to the edge ofthe cloth. It can be anywhere from 6" (15 cm) to floor-length.

DROP-SHOULDER. This garment design feature means that the seam joining thesleeve to the front and back is intended to fall down off the edge of the shoulder, ratherthan align to the shoulder crest. Drop-shoulder styles are relaxed, less fitted, andgenerally have more room in the armhole.

EASE refers to the amount of space built into a pattern beyond the actual bodymeasurements.

EDGESTITCH. With the machine set for straight stitching at a length of 2 to 2.5 mmor 10 stitches per inch, stitch within 1/8" (3 mm) of a finished edge. With many

machines, this can be achieved by guiding the inner edge of the right presser foot toealong the outer finished edge.

FACING. A fabric extension or addition that is sewn as a backing to another pieceprotects raw edges or seam allowances from raveling and gives the item a neat,finished appearance. For instance, a jacket front and neckline have an outer layer andan underlayer, or facing.

GATHER. Two rows of long machine stitches are sewn along a seamline. When thebobbin threads are pulled, the fabric slides along the threads into tiny tucks. Gathersare used to fit a wide garment section to a narrower section while at the same timeadding shaping.

GRADING. Seam allowances on faced edges are trimmed to graduated widths toeliminate a bulky ridge. Often the garment seam allowance is trimmed to 1/4" (6 mm)and the facing seam allowance is trimmed to 1/8" (3 mm).

HEMMING. The outer edge of a project is given a neat finished appearance byturning under and securing the raw edge in one of several methods.

LENGTHWISE GRAIN. On woven fabric, the lengthwise grain runs parallel to theselvages. Fabrics are generally stronger and more stable along the lengthwise grain.

MARK. It is often necessary to give yourself temporary guidelines or guide points onthe fabric for cutting, stitching, or matching seams. There are many tools and methodsfor doing this, such as marking pencils and pens, chalk dispensers, tape, or pins.

MITER. Excess fabric is folded out at an angle to eliminate bulk. You probably miterthe corners when you wrap gifts.

NAP. Some fabrics have definite up and down directions, either because of a surfacepile, like corduroy or velveteen, or because of a one-way print. When laying out apattern on napped fabric, cut all the pieces with the top edges facing the samedirection.

NONDIRECTIONAL PRINT. The design printed on this fabric has no definite upand down directions, and pattern pieces can be laid out with the top edges facing ineither direction.

PATCH POCKETS. one of the easiest pocket styles to sew, these are sewn to theouter surface of the garment like a patch.

PIVOT. Perfect corners are stitched by stopping with the needle down in the fabric atthe exact corner before turning. To be sure the corner stitch locks, turn the hand-wheeluntil the needle goes all the way down and just begins to rise. Then raise the presser

foot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching.

PRESHRINK. Fabric that shrinks, especially natural fibers, shrinks most in the firstlaundering. If you intend to launder your finished item occasionally, you should washthe fabric before cutting out the pieces, so the item will not shrink after you make it.Dry clean only fabrics can be preshrunk by steaming them with your iron.

PRESS. This step is extremely important to the success of your sewing projects.Select the heat setting appropriate for your fabric, and use steam. Lift and lower theiron in an overlapping pattern. Do not slide the iron down the seam, as this can causethe fabric to stretch out of shape, especially on the crosswise grain or bias.

RIBBING is a very stretchy knit fabric, usually with pronounced ridges. It isespecially suitable for necks and cuffs on knit garments, since it can easily stretch togo over heads and hands, yet spring back into shape once in place. Most ribbingcomes in much narrower widths than other fabrics and, because you use less of it, it isoften sold by the inch (centimeter) rather than the yard (meter).

RIBS. Corresponding to the lengthwise grain in woven fabric, the ribs of a knit fabricrun parallel to the selvages (if there are any). Knits are usually most stable in the ribdirection.

SEAM. Two pieces of fabric are placed right sides together and joined along the edgewith stitches. After stitching, the raw edges are hidden on the wrong side, leaving aclean, smooth line on the right side.

SEAM ALLOWANCE. Narrow excess fabric lies between the stitching line and theraw edges. The standard seam allowance width for woven-fabric garment sewing is5/8" (1.5 cm); the standard width for knit-fabric garments is 1/4" (6 mm); the standardwidth for home décor sewing is 1/2" (1.3 cm). The seam allowance gives the seamstrength and ensures that the stitches cannot be pulled off the raw edges.

SEAM ALLOWANCE GUIDE. Most machines have a series of lines on the throatplate. These lines mark the distance from the needle (where a standard straight stitchseam would be) to the cut edges. Measure these lines on your machine to determinewhere the edge of your fabric should be for the width seam you are stitching.

SEAM RIPPER. It doesn’t really rip. Use the sharp point to slide under and cutstitches one at a time. Avoid the temptation to simply slide the cutting hook down theseam. You will inevitably cut into your fabric. Even the most experienced sewers relyon their seam rippers.

SELVAGES. Characteristic of woven fabrics, this narrow, tightly woven outer edgeshould be cut away. Avoid the temptation to use it as one side of a cut piece, as it may

cause the seam to pucker and may shrink excessively when laundered.

TACKING. Short stationary stitches, sewn by hand or by machine, hold two or morepieces of fabric together a little less conspicuously then a row of stitches.

THREAD JAM. The threads become tangled up in a wad on the underside of thefabric and the machine gets stuck. The best way to prevent a thread jam is to hold bothtop and bottom thread tails to the back or side of the presser foot until completing thefirst few stitches of a seam. If a thread jam happens, DON’T USE FORCE! Removethe presser foot, if you can. Snip all the threads you can get at from the top of the throatplate. Open the bobbin case door or throat plate, and snip any threads you can get at.Remove the bobbin, if you can. Gently remove the fabric. Thoroughly clean out thefeed dog and bobbin area before reinserting the bobbin and starting over.

TOPSTITCHING is a decorative and functional stitching line placed 1/4" to 1" (6mm to 2.5 cm) from the finished edge of an item. The stitching is done with the rightside of the item facing up. Sometimes topstitching is done with a heavier thread or twothreads through the machine needle, to make it more visible.

UNDERSTITCHING is straight stitching very close to the seamline that connects afacing to the garment, and it keeps the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.After the seam allowances are trimmed, clipped, and pressed toward the facing, stitchfrom the right side of the facing.

Indexadjustment line, 32

apron with pockets, 103–111

baby blanket, 75–79

backstitching, 124

ballpoints, 12

baste, 72, 124

basting tape, 21

beeswax, 15

betweens, 14

bias, 22, 124

blanket binding, 21

blind catchstitch, 52

blindstitch, 52

bobbins, 12

thread tension, 12, 44–45winding, 38–39

bodkin, 19

body measurements, 26

built-in stretch stitch, 47

button/buttonhole placement marks, 33

buttonhole cutter, 20

buttons

sew-through, 50shank, 51

casing, 124

chalk, 37

clip, 124

corners, 68, 69

courses, 124

crewels, 14

crosswise grain, 124

cutting, 36, 54–55

cutting boards, 19

cutting lines, 33

cutting tools, 17

decorator fabrics

cutting, 54–55matching designs, 56–57

designer fabrics, 24

designs, matching, 56–57

detail positions, 33

double-fold hems, 53, 106, 107

double-needle hems, 53

double-stitched seams, 47

dressmaker’s shears, 17

drop-shoulder, 124

ease, 124

edgestitch, 63, 93, 124

elastics, 19

elastic-waist pants, 89–95

elastic-waist skirts, 81–87

embroidery foot, 13

fabric

cutting, 36, 54–55decorator, 54–55designer, 24

fashion, 24, 25fiber content of, 22folding, 34, 35knit, 23marking, 37preparation, 25selecting, 22shopping for, 24woven, 22

fabric marking pens, 16, 37

facing, 124

fashion fabrics, 24, 25

fiber content, 22

foldline, 32

gather, 124

general-purpose foot, 13

glue sticks, 20

grading, 124

grainlines, 22, 32, 54

hand hems, 52

hand-sewing supplies, 14–15

hand stitches, 48–51

hemline, 33

hemming, 124

hems, 52–53

double-fold, 53, 106, 107double-needle, 53hand, 52hem allowance, 33, 101machine, 53marking length, 85

interfacing, 19

jackets, unlined, 113–123

knife-edge pillows, 65–69

knit fabrics, 23

knit skirts, 86–87

lengthwise grain, 22, 71, 124

liquid fray preventer, 20

machine-baste, 72

machine hems, 53

marking, 37, 124

marking chalk, 16

marking tools, 16

measuring tools, 16

milliner’s needles, 14

miter, 125

multistitch-zigzag finish, 46

nap, 34, 125

narrow masking tape, 16

narrow zigzag seam, 47

needles

inserting, 38sewing machine, 12threading, 41, 48

needle threaders, 15

needle thread tension, 44–45

nondirectional print, 125

notches, 33, 36

pants, elastic-waist, 89–95

paper-backed fusible web, 21

patch pockets, 125

patterns

catalogs, 27determining size, 26envelope, 28–29features, 30–31layout, 32–35matching, 56–57selecting, 26–27symbols, 32–33

pillows, knife-edge, 65–69

pincushions, 15

pinking shears, 17

pinning, 34–35

pins

with colored ball heads, 14inserting perpendicular to edge, 42, 43quilting, 14removing, 43straight, 14

pivot, 125

point turner, 20, 69

preshrink, 125

press, 125

press cloth, 18

presser feet, 13, 76

pressing ham, 18

pressing tools, 18

printed on-grain, 54, 55

projects, 59–123

apron with pockets, 103–111baby blanket, 75–79elastic-waist pants, 89–95elastic-waist skirts, 81–87knife-edge pillows, 65–69rectangular tablecloth, 61–63T-shirts, 97–101unlined jackets, 113–123zipper closures, 71–73

quilting pins, 14

rectangular tablecloth, 61–63

ribbing, 99–100, 125

ribs, 125

rotary cutter, 17

ruler, 16

scissors, 17

seam allowance, 17, 36, 42, 46–47, 125

seam allowance guide, 42, 125

seam gauge, 16

seamlines, 33

seam ripper, 17, 125

seam roll, 18

seams, 125

double-stitched, 47finishes, 46sewing, 42–43shoulder, 98, 99special, 47stretch, 47

self-adjusting tension, 44

selvages, 22, 125

sewing, preparation for, 38–41

sewing directions, 31

sewing machines, 10–11

accessories, 12–13adjusting tension, 45balancing tension, 44–45inserting needles, 38needles, 12presser feet, 13threading the machine, 40–41winding the bobbin, 38–39

sewing scissors, 17

sewing supplies, 14–18

sew-through buttons, 50

shank buttons, 51

sharp points, 12

sharps, 14

shoulder seams, 98, 99

single-fold bias tape, 21

size determination, 26

skirts

elastic-waist, 81–87knit, 86–87

sleeve board, 18

slipstitching, 49, 52

special-purpose foot, 13

steam/spray iron, 18

stitched and pinked finish, 46

stitches

edgestitch, 63, 93, 124

hand stitches, 48–51slipstitching, 49, 52

stitch in the ditch, 85, 111

stitch length, 79

straight pins, 14

stretch gauge, 23

stretch seams, 47

supplies, 14–18

cutting tools, 17hand-sewing, 14–15measuring and marking tools, 16pressing tools, 18

symbols, pattern, 32–33

tablecloth, 61–63

tacking, 125

Teflon-coated sole plate guard, 18

tension

adjusting, 45balancing, 44–45

thimble, 15

threading the machine, 40–41

thread jam, 126

tools

cutting, 17measuring and marking, 16pressing, 18special products, 19–21

topstitching, 126

transparent ruler, 16

transparent T-square, 16

T-shirts, 97–101

turn and zigzag finish, 46

turn ties right side out, 109

understitching, 126

universal points, 12

unlined jackets, 113–123

walking foot, 13

woven fabrics, 22

yardstick, 16

zigzag finish, 46, 57

zipper closures, 71–73

zipper foot, 13

Copyright © 2014 Creative Publishing international

All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any formor by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping of information onstorage and retrieval systems—without the written permission of the publisher.

Due to differing conditions, materials, and skill levels, the publisher and various manufacturers disclaim any liabilityfor unsatisfactory results or injury due to improper use of tools, materials, or information in this publication.

First published in the United States of America by

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Digital edition: 978-1-62788-009-1Softcover edition: 978-1-58923-804-6

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