the landscape of bio synthetics for the outdoor industry

s o p h i e m a t h e r t e x t i l e s i n n o v a t i o n f o r a s u s t a i n a b l e t o m o r r o w

The Landscape of Bio Synthetics for the Outdoor Industry

Presented by: Sophie Mather Monday 30th January 2012

Contents

•  Background

•  Bio Synthetics

•  The origin of bio synthetics

•  Commercial technologies

•  Research & Development

•  Bio Synthetics Working Group

•  Conclusion

Sophie Mather Textiles - January 30th 2012

Resource PCI Fibres

Synthetic Outdoor Fabrics

Base Layers Polyester

Polypropylene

Mid Layers Polyester

Outer Layers Polyester

Nylon

Photos: Sophie Mather


Resource PCI Fibres

Estimated Global Fibre Use in 2010

Polyester Cotton Manufactured

Cellulosic

47% 32% 4%

Spandex

0.5%

Source: PCI. Figures estimated for 2010

Nylon

4%


Resource PCI Fibres

Base Layers Polyester

Polypropylene

Mid Layers Polyester

Outer Layers Polyester

Nylon



‘Something made by a synthetic or chemical

process’ **

In the case of textiles this would refer to

textiles that are made out of / or by chemical

means.

(i.e. Polyester & Nylon)

Synthetic

Source: ** Oxford Dictionary

Resource PCI Fibres



Bio Synthetic

Source:* Cambridge Dictionary

‘Connected with life and living things’ *

In the case of textiles this would refer to

synthetics made out of natural inputs.

(i.e. corn, sugar, bacteria, castor oil,

biomass etc.)

FACT: In the US and Canada an average of 3 gallons of crude oil are consumed per person / day.

Source: US Department of Energy Sophie Mather Textiles - January 30th 2012

Resource PCI Fibres

Plant Utilization

Starch

Cellulose

Lipids

Protein

•  Lyocell

•  Wood Plant

•  Corn •  Wheat •  Sugar Beet

•  Polyester PLA

Biomass


Lignin

Resource PCI Fibres

Plant Utilization

Starch

Cellulose

Lipids

Protein

•  Wood

•  Lyocell

•  Wood •  Cotton Linters Plant

•  Corn •  Wheat •  Sugar Beet

•  Castor Oil •  Nylon PA11

•  Polyester PHFA

•  Polyester PLA •  Polyester PTT

Biomass •  Polyester PEF


Lignin

Turn roadblocks into challenges, and challenges into inspiration.” LYNDA GROSE – CALAFORNIA COLLEGE OF THE ARTS “


What is commercial?

Polyester Nylon Manufactured Cellulosic Spandex



Nau Product: Base 3 long sleeve zip shirt (left) Composition: Renewable corn based PLA

Photo: Nau - Fall 2007

What is commercial?

Polyester Nylon Manufactured Cellulosic Spandex


Commercial Product

Commercial Product

Raw material predominantly corn based

A monopoly of suppliers in some areas

Heavy in the polyester area

R&D

Raw materials more biomass based

More competition in similar areas


Lead from packaging industry


R&D

Commercial Product

Raw material predominantly corn based

A monopoly of suppliers in some areas


R&D

Raw materials more biomass based

More competition in similar areas


Lead from packaging industry


Raw Material: Polymer Type


Biomass

Bacterial

Starch

Lignin

Castor Oil

PEF

PHA

BDO

PHFA

PA11

When it is obvious that the goals cannot be reached, don’t adjust the goals, adjust the steps.” CONFUCIUS “


Bio Synthetic Working Group

What?

How?

Why?

When?

Industry wide working group including suppliers, brands and retailers

Collaborative opinion on the role and use of bio synthetics

Co-ordinated through the Textile Exchange and headed up by Sophie Mather

Informed by the working group members

Align suppliers, brands & retailers on R&D direction

Expedite commercialization process to fewer, more focused technologies

Start date – Feb 2012

Presentation of findings; Textile Exchange conference Autumn 2012


Roadblocks to Success •  No consolidated direction from the textile industry

•  Lack of knowledge

•  Non textile people trying to develop textiles specific products

•  Cost of scale up

•  General price of textile fibre / end product

•  Technical issues of early biopolymers

•  No immediate need as we currently have raw materials that are cheaper


Conclusion •  A strong drive across industries to switch to bio, but not necessarily in apparel.

•  Factors inhibiting apparel adoption include: price, R&D costs, technical issues, and the unknown among others.

•  The industry as a whole has diversified to find solutions – do we need to focus in a key area in order to succeed?

•  There are ‘product plus’ opportunities rather than just like for like polymers.

•  We have the ability to make a difference. We need to believe in it and make it part of our longer term strategies.


s o p h i e m a t h e r t e x t i l e s i n n o v a t i o n f o r a s u s t a i n a b l e t o m o r r o w

[email protected]

www.sophiemathertextiles.com

the landscape of bio synthetics for the outdoor industry

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