the food of malaysia

•

THE FOOD OF

Authentic Recipes fromthe Crossroads ofAsia

WENDY HUTTON

THE FOOD OF

MALAYSIAAuthentic Recipes from the Crossroads ofAsia

Introdudion and editing by Wendy Hutton

Recipes by the cooks ofBon Ton Restaurant, Kuala Lumpur

andJonkers Restaurant, Malacca

Food photography by Luca Invemizzi Tettoni

VIKING

VikingPenguin Books Australia Ltd487 Maroondah Highway, PO Box 257Ringwood, Victoria 3134, AustraliaPenguin Books LtdHannondsworth, Middlesex, EnglandViking Penguin, A Division of Penguin Books USA Inc.375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USAPenguin Books Canada Limited10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 3B2Penguin Books (N.Z.) Ltd182-190 Wairau Road, Auckland 10, New Zealand

First published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd 1994First published in Australia by Penguin BooksAustralia Ltd 1994

10987654321

Copyright © Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd, 1994

All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights undercopyright reserved above, no part of this publicationmay be reproduced, stored in or introduced into aretrieval system, or transmitted, in any fonn or by anymeans (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without prior written pennission ofboth the copyright owner and the above publisher ofthis book.

Design by Peter IveyPrinted in the Republic of Singapore byStar Standard Industries (Pte) Ltd

National Library of AustraliaCataloguing-in-Publication data

Hutton, WendyThe food of malaysia.

ISBN 0 670 90683 2.

1. Cookery, Malaysian. 1. Title.

641.59595

AcknowledgementsThe publishers would like to thank all those peoplewho assisted in the preparation of this book. Particularthanks are due to the following Malacca stores for theloan of antiques and artifacts: Abdul Company,Fatimah Antik Stor, Malacca Junk Store and RingoClassics & Antiques. Our sincere thanks also to IncheMushlim Musa of Kampung Paku, Alor Gajah, and to"Madame Fatso" of Malacca's New Bunga RayaRestaurant. Thanks also to various people in Singaporewho assisted by lending plates and props: Mrs WeeKim Wee, Mrs Julie Albers and Mrs Gloria Tok. Forhelp in the preparation of food we are also indebted toMrs Ong Kiat Kim and Ms Christina Ong.

Photo and illustration CreditsAll photos by Luca Invernizzi Tettoni except: pages 12,13, 20 (R. Moh'd Noh Salleh), pages 4-5, 8, 14, 22(Jill Gocher), and page 25 (R. Ian Lloyd). Theillustration on page 15 from Kampung Boy- Yesterdayand Today is by Lat.

Contents

PART ONE: FOOD IN MALAYSIA

Introduction 7A Land Where Nature Smiles 8

Malay Food: The Golden Khersonese 11Chinese Food: Celestial Cuisine in Nanyang 17

Indian Food: Spicy Soul Mates 19Borneo Food: Feasts from the Jungles 23

Nonya Cooking: The Food of Love 24Eurasian Food: When East Meets West 27

PART TWO: COOKING IN MALAYSIA

Utensils 31Cooking Methods 33

Malaysian Ingredients 34

PART THREE: THE RECIPES

Basic Recipes 41Measurements 41

Snacks 46Soups 52

Noodles 56Main Meal Dishes 68

Desserts 122

Index 130

Part One: Food in MalaysiaWhere Asia's greatest cuisines

meet and mingle

The Asian continent, encompassing the world's1 highest mountains, vast sandy deserts, millionsof hectares of fertile rice fields, massive riverdeltas and tangled jungles, comes to its end in thepeninsula known poetically to the ancient Greeksas the Golden Khersonese.

This golden land, the Malay peninsula, lieswhere the monsoons meet, and over the centuries,saw sailing ships arriving from the west from Arabia, India and, much later on, from Europe. From theeast came Chinese junks, Siamese vessels and theinter-island sailing craft of Buginese and Javanesefrom the Indonesian archipelago.

The original people of the peninsula-knowncollectively as Orang Asli and now numbering lessthan 100,OOO-consist of about twenty differenttribes belonging to two distinct linguistic groups.Later arrivals, who spread south from Yunan insouthern China and began settling in Malaysiaaround 4,000 years ago, were the ancestors oftoday's dominant group, the Malays.

The Malay kingdom ofMalacca was the greatestport in the east during its heyday in the 15th century. By then, Malacca's sultan had embraced Islam,brought by Indian Muslim traders, and the newreligion gradually spread throughout the peninsula.

The lives of the Muslim Malays were to change

during the 19th century when the Britishbegan, firstin Penang, then in Malacca, to gain control over theMalay states. The British brought in huge numbersof Chinese and Indian workers, dramaticallyaltering not only the ethnic and·social structure of thecountry but its eating habits as well.

In 1963, the Federation of Malaysia was formed,with the states of the peninsula combining with theBorneo states of Sabah and Sarawak. Malaysia'scuisines are as varied as its people. The Malays, Chinese and Indians continue to create their traditionalfoods, while cross-cultural borrowing in the kitchenhas led to a number ofuniquely "Malaysian" dishes.

Then there is the food of the Straits-born Chinese, whose culture and cuisine combine Malay andChinese elements. Their so-called Nonya cuisine isarguably the most creative and delicious to be foundin the country.

The Eurasians, too-especially those of Portuguese origin in Malacca-have developed theirown dishes, while the peoples ofMalaysian Borneoadd even more variety to the culinary scene.

Whatever their background, Malaysians lovefood, whether its enjoyed at home with family andfriends, eaten out at foodstalls or restaurants, or ispart of a festive celebration. We invite you to jointhe feast: selamat makan!

Pages 4-5:Viewing tl-fe .coastline at sunset, it'seasy to understandwhy the ancientGreeks caUed theMalay Peninsula"The GoldenKhersonese.•OppOsite:The best ofthreemajor culturesMalay, Chineseand Indian-combine with the foodofmany otherethnic groups topromise constantSlI,rprises.

INTRODUCTION 7

A Land Where Nature SmilesOffertile fields and teeming seas,ofdairies and durian orchards

Rice fields, anindelible part of

the Malaysianlandscape, nestle

at the base ofsabah's MountKinabalu, the

highest peak inSoutheast Asia.

M alaysia seems to have been blessed by nature,which saves its volcanic erruptions, its typh

oons and lashing monsoon rains and floods for otherparts ofAsia.

Covering both the tip of the Asian peninsulaand the northwestern part of Borneo, Malaysia, notsurprisingly, varies interrain and climate. The"typical" lush tropical landscape- emerald green ricepaddies, golden beachesfringed by groves of coconut palms-exists, but it isonly part of the picture.

To the far north of thepeninsula, near the Thaiborder, the climate is oftendry and the landscape ofendless paddy fields (for this is the "rice bowl" ofMalaysia) relieved by abrupt limestone hills.

Much of the lush alluvial plain of the peninsula's west coast is planted with oil palm and rubber.This is ideal land for orchards too, and luscioustropical fruits such as the highly prized (andpowerful smelling) durian,furry red rambutans,mangosteen, star fruit, langsat and other delightsare grown here.

Contrasting with this, high on the main mountain range, the Banjaran Titiwangsa, the temperate climate of the Cameron Highlands makes itperfect not only for holiday makers but for the teaplantations and market gardens which providemuch of the fresh produce that reaches the penin

sula's markets. Malaysianscan thus vary typical tropical vegetables (such aswater spinach or kangkung,

bamboo shoot, aubergine,okra, sweet potato and taroyam) with temperateclimate vegetables like cabbage, carrots, broccoli andcapsicum.

The generally muddycoastal waters of the

Malacca Straits on the west coast are ideal for crabsand shellfish, the mangrove swamps providing animportant breeding ground for prawns and othermarine life. The east coast, washed by the SouthChina Sea, provides not only postcard-perfectbeaches but ideal fishing grounds, and countlesssmall kampung (villages) along the coast make theirlivelihood from the sea.

Some 500 kilometres or so across this sea lie

8 PART ONE: FOOD IN MALAYSIA

~~ "Indian Ocean

Sarawak and Sabah, characterised by traditionallifestyles and limited roads, especially in Sarawak,where rivers are still the major highways. Marketproduce is grown locally on a limited scale inSarawak, where many inland peoples still relylargely on wild edible plants.

Although most of the populated areas ofSarawakare low lying, Sabah, by contrast, has a mountainrange that culminates in Southeast Asia's tallestpeak, Mount Kinabalu(4,101 metres). The localDusun people living heregrow "hill" (non-irrigated)rice, pineapples and bananas on the steep slopes ofthe Crocker Range, whiledozens of market gardensaround Kundasang (approximately 1,500 metres)grow a tremendous rangeof temperate-climate produce, including asparagusand mushrooms. Nearby, adairy farm of contentedFriesian's produces a largepercentage of the state's milk, while there is alsoa tea plantation.

With such a variety of locally produced vegetables, fruits, seafood and poultry to choose from,Malaysians have few limits as to what they cancreate in the kitchen. The exception to this is thatpork is forbidden to Muslims so it is never eatenby Malays and Indian Muslims.

A number of hotel restaurants, in deference to

Muslim customers, substitute "turkey ham" or"beef bacon" for the real thing, and omit all porkdishes from their menu.

Seafood is very popular, and not just among theMalays and other coastal people. There is a superbarray of fresh fish, prawns, squid, crabs, lobsters anda variety of shellfish, not forgetting small driedanchovies, dried prawns and salted fish.

Most of the beef and mutton consumed local1yis imported (often "Dn thehooP' so that it can beslaughtered according toMuslim dietary laws),while the Chinese raisepork, their favourite meat.

Eac;h ethnic group inMalaysia has its own Wqyof transforming nature'sbounty, which can comeslathered with spices orsubtly simple, rich incoconut milk gravy orbathed in a piquant sauce.Malaysians are so variedthat it is often difficult to.

make generalisations.For example, everyone's staple food is rice. But

then again, noodles are widely eaten at breakfast,lunch and dinner! Perhaps the only universalquality is Malaysian food's irresistible flavour,whether it is a stick of sizzling Malay satay, pungent Indian mutton soup, Nonya chicken curry fragrant with lime leaves, Chinese pepper crab orEurasian saltfish and pineapple curry.

A LAND WHERE NATURE SMILES 9

The Golden KhersoneseMalay food: coconuts and spice

and all things nice

N obody who has sat under the stars on a warmtropical night and smelled the tantalising

fragrance ofsatay-tiny spiced kebabs-sizzling overcharcoal at a nearby food stall can resist Malay food.

For generations, the Malays lived a life relativelyundisturbed by outside traders and invaders, apartfrom the heady days of theMalacca Sultanate. Dwellingalong the coasts or riverbanks, the Malays enjoyeda largely peaceable existence, untroubled by thewars, famines and plaguesthat beset many other countries ofthe Asian continent.

Fish were abundant, ricegrew in the paddies, wildand cultivated fruits andvegetables were available year-round in the constantclimate. Fragrant herbs grew effortlessly, as did theindispensible coconut. Traditional meals werebased on rice, with fish, vegetables and chilli-basedsambals to add extra zing.

Travelling along today's highways that cross thepeninsula from north to south and east to west, itcomes as a sUTIJrise to learn that until well into thetwentieth century, travel through what was a

largely jungle-covered land was very limited. As aresult, regional styles ofcuisine developed in different parts of the Malay peninsula.

The northern states of Kedah, Perlis and Kelantan, all of which border on Thailand, and Trengganu, which rubs shoulders with Kelantan, show dis

tinct Thai influences intheir cuisine. So too, doesPenang. A tangy and fragrant sourness is often addedby the use of tamarind,sour carambola and limes,while fiery hot chillies sooften present in Thai foodare also popular in thenorthern Malaysian states.

Fresh herbs often give aspecial touch to northern

dishes. In addition to the herbs commonly usedthroughout Malaysia-lemon grass, pandan leaf, thefragrant leafof the kaffir lime and the pungent polygonum or daun kesum-they include a type ofbasilpopular in Thailand (daun kemangi), leaves of anumber of rhizomes such as turmeric and zedoary(known locally as cekur), and the wonderfullyfragrant wild ginger bud.

A popular northern dish, Nasi Warn or Kerabu,

Opposite:Traditionally builtof wood and attap(thatch), Malayhouses show subtledifferences indesign throughoutthe Malay Peninsula. Malaccan'homes oftenfeature beautifultiles.

Left:Malay weddings,where the brideand groom aretreated as 'kingand queen for aday', are theoccasion forsplendid costumesand sumptuousfeasts.

THE GOLDEN KHERSONESE 11

Right:Food stalls

throughout thecountry are popu

lar for inexpensive,home-cooked food.

Nasi Campur(mixed rice) allowsdiners to pick and

choose from avariety ofcooked

Malay-style disheswhich are eaten

with rice.Opposite.

Local markets arefilled·with a

bewildering varietyoffresh and dried

produce. TheCentral Market in

the northeasterntownofKota

Bahru is renownedfor its wide variety

offresh herbs,often used to make

Nasi Ulam orKerabu.

consists of rice mixed with as many fresh herbs ascan be found in the garden or market. A platter offresh herbs or ulam is sometimes served with a spicychilli sauce, rice and other cooked dishes.

Settled largely by the Minangkabau people fromWest Sumatra, the central state of Negri Sembilanreflects its history in its food,with richly spiced dishes cooked in lashings of rich coconutmilk, Rendang being a perfectexample. The Malay cuisine ofJohore, in the far south, includes a number ofJavanese influences, as groups ofJavanesesettled here over the pastcouple of centuries.

Largely isolated from therest of the peninsula until wellinto the twentieth century, thestate ofPahang, with its dramatic jungled mountains and gorgeous sandy beaches, offers arelatively simple cuisine, withfish from the ocean or the riverspredominating.

Other states of Peninsular Malaysia tend to bemore multi-racial in character, and the indigenousMalay food is less distinctive than that ofother areas.

Despite regional differences, Malay food can bedescnbed as spicy and flavourful, although this doesnot necessarily mean chilli-hot. But you can restassure that even if the main dishes are not hot,there'll be a chilli-based sambal on hand.

Traditional Southeast Asian spices have been

joined over the centuries by Indian, Middle Easternand Chinese spices, so the partnership ofcorianderand cumin (the basis of many Malay "curries") isjoined by pepper, cardamom, star anise, and fenugreek-just to name a few ofthe many spices in theMalay cook's store cupboard.

Food without seasoning isunthinkable-even a simpleslice of fried fish is rubbed withturmeric powder and salt beforecooking. Many of the seasonings that enhance Malay foodare not dried spices but rhizomes such as fresh turmeric andlengkuas (galangal), and other"wet" ingredients like chillies,onions and garlic.

Fresh seasonings and driedspices are normally pounded toa fine paste and cooked gentlyin oil before liquid-eithercreamy coconut milk or a sourbroth-is added, together withthe vegetables, meat or fish.

Food for the barbecue is alsomarinated or simmered in spices before cooking,and left-over rice will be turned into a tasty NasiGoreng by first frying pounded onions and chillies.

With fish having always played such an important part in the Malay diet, it's not surprising thateven today, tiny dried anchovies (ikon bilis) anddried shrimps are added to many dishes for flavour.And then there is dried shrimp paste or belacan,which, despite its pungent odour when raw and


Right.'Rice, the staple

food throughoutthe country,

comes in manydifferent varieties

, and colours, .

ranging fromwhite to reddish

brown and black.Opposite:

Malaysia's muchloved cartoonist,Lat, remembers

his childhood(and food) in the.

kampung.

during cooking, gives an irresistIble extra flavour tocountless dishes.

The traditional kampung (village) house set in acleanly swept yard shaded by coconuts, bananas andother fruit trees, with chickens pecking their wayaround a varie~ of kitchen herbs and vegetables,is increasingly something of the past.

11alaysia is modernising rapidly, and more andmore ofits people are moving into terraced or semi-

detached houses with minimalgardens.11odernllies~lesleave

little time for gardening orpreparing complex dishes, anda number of 11alay dishes arenow prepared mainly for special festivals or weddings.

The kenduri or feast is onetime when 11alay cuisine comesinto its own. All the women ofthe family or village take outtheir giant cooking pots andwork virtually through thenight, scraping and squeezingcoconuts for milk, poundingmountains of shallots, garlic,chillies and spices, cutting andchopping, simmering and stirring, until they have created animpressive array of fish curries, gulais (curries) of vegetables bathed in coconut milkand seasoned perhaps withfresh prawns, coconut-rich rendang ofbeefor chicken, tingling

hot prawn sambals, and a colourful array ofdesserts.With their innate courtesy and hospitali~, the

11alays consider it an honour to be able to invite anyfortunate passer-by to join in the kenduri. Womensit separately from the men, while babies crawlabout or swing in a sarong cradle nearby. Childreneither peek shyly at the guest or race about happily-after, ofcourse, enjoying the sumptuous feast thatshows 11alay cuisine at its best.


Celestial Cuisine in NanyangChinese food: a two-way exchange of

ingredients and culinary styles

Gas jets spurt like fire-breathing dragons,engulfing huge cast-iron woks where a mass

of noodles is being tossed, seasoned and scoopedby a perspiring Chinese chef. This scene is re-enacted at food stalls and restaurants throughoutMalaysia, where Chinese cuisine has become aninseparable part of themagical Malaysian mix.

When Chinese merchants sailed their junksacross the South China Sea,visiting the ports of northBorneo before lengthy trading sessions in Malacca,they set in train a processthat was to have a profoundinfluence on the region.

"Nanyang", the landsacross the Great Southern Ocean, became renownedas a source of exotic ingredients and wealth. A fewof these Chinese traders stayed on in the Malaypeninsula, often marrying local women and forming the beginings of Peranakan or Straits-Chineseculture. However, it was not until the arrival of theBritish colonials in Singapore in 1819 that the stagewas set for a huge wave of migration.

Thousands of Chinese workers poured into

Singapore, and as tin was discovered in the Malaypeninsula, many moved north to areas like Penang,Malacca, Kuala Lumpur and Taiping. Others headedstraight for the goldmines and coal fields ofSarawak,or moved to British North Borneo (now Sabah}towork on the land. More came later to labour in rub

ber plantations that soonaltered the landscape andeconomy of the country.The Chinese brought withthem the cooking styles oftheir homeland, mostly thesouthern provinces ofKwantung and Fukien, introducing the indigenous peopleof the Malay peninsula andnorthern Borneo to a rangeof ingredients now used by

every ethnic group in Malaysia today: noodles,beansprouts, beancurd and soy sauce. Their technique of stir frying small portions 'offood in a littleoil over very high heat in a conical frying pan or wokwas also widely adopted. In tum, Malaysia'S Chinesedeveloped a penchant for spices and chilli. Any localcoffee Chinese shop or restaurant will offer pickled green chillies or red chilli sambal to enliven noodles and rice-based meals. The Chinese borrow

Opposite: .When wanderingspirits get hungry,they can be downright malicious.Fortunately, theycan be appeasedwith offerings offood, incense andstreet opera duringthe Feast of theHungry Ghosts.Left:Eating is considered one of/ife'smost pleasurablepastimes, espe-

. cially byMalaysia's Chinesecommunity.

ring

CELESTIAL CUISINE IN NANY ANG 17

Food stallsserve not only

customers whoperch on often

rickety stools toenjoy an al fresco

meal, but alsothose buy take

away food toenjoy at home

or work.

curry leaves from the Indians, use English condiments such as Worcestershire and tomato sauce,and add Indian and Malay spices to the cooking pot.

Almost any self-respecting Chinese cook can whipup a tasty Malay-style chicken or fish curry, and mostversions of Laksa (a spicy noodle soup) are preparedby the Chinese. They're not averse to enjoying anumber ofIndian dishes too, especially some ofthepungent fish curries and Indian breads such as roti

canai and murtabak.Chinese food is widely

accepted as one of theworld's greatest cuisines.One of its hallmarks is theingenious use of ingredients-the Chinese cook'sability to transform "spareparts" into something thattastes like an exotic luxuryis virtually legendary. TheChinese also place greatimportance on the contrastof colours, textures andflavours, both within a dishand the overall meal.

The light, clean, non-greasy food ofthe Cantonese,and the pungent, chilli-hot cuisine ofSzechuan arewell known abroad, with northern cuisine fromPeking also attracting a following. Although thedominant dialect group in Malaysia overall is Cantonese, there are large numbers of Hokkiens, Teochews, Hockchews from Foochow, Hakkas, Hainanese and Henghua, often concentrated in a particulartown or region, each with its own style of cooking.

All this means that although Chinese cuisine inMalaysia seems somehow familiar, it's also full ofdelicious surprises. Like the fiery punch of crabsfried with black pepper, chillies, salted soya beanpaste and curry leaves, or the creamy texture offresh rice-flour noodles or kway teow fried withprawns, egg and bean sprouts. Malaysian Chinese,who enjoy their food so enthusiastically that onemight almost wonder if they live to eat rather than

eat to live, dine out frequently, at roadside stallsand in simple open-frontedcoffee shops as well asmore formal restaurants.

As many visitors havenoted, Malaysia's Chinesealways seem to be eating.After a light breakfast(maybe Western-style toastor perhaps noodles orsteamed tit-bits known asdim sum), there's room fora mid-morning snack (anIndian curry puff or sweetMalay cake). Lunch could

be any type of noodles or rice with Chinese, Malayor Indian side-dishes. Dinner might be a formalCantonese meal, a vast spread ofseafood at a restaurant, a family meal of rice, soup, vegetables andmeat or seafood, or even Western fast-food. Andbefore bed, there's probably room for just one morebowl of noodles or perhaps some fried bananas.With so many good things to eat, who can possiblylimit themselves to just three meals a day?


Spicy Soul MatesIndian food: banana leaf curry andflying bread: .

Malaysia's Indians make their mark

Visitors to Malaysia, noting the proliferation ofIndian Muslim food stalls, ofIndian restaurants

advertising "Banana Leaf Curry", and the universalpopularity of the pancake-like Indian bread, roticanai, might be surprised to learn that the Indiancommunity makes up around only 10% of the nation's population.

Indian cuisines--especially those from the south,where most of Malaysia'sIndians originated-sharesome similarities with Malaycuisine in their generoususe of spices and coconut,so it took little encouragement for Indian food tocatch on. And it's not justthe easy-to-love flavoursof Indian food that make it widely popular; MalayMuslims can rest assure that Muslim dietary lawswill be observed in Indian Muslim restaurants.

Like their Chinese counterparts, Indian tradershave been recorded in the region for more than athousand years, but it was only in the 19th centurythat they came to Malaya in large numbers.

Most were brought in as contract labourers towork on the rubber estates, where miniature Indian

villages complete with temples, schools and toddyshops grew up. Others came to work on the railwaysor in setting up the telecommunications network,while many Indian Muslims opened restaurants,textile shops or small sundry shops.

Although Malaysia has small communities ofSikhs from the Punjabregion in India and Malayalees from Kerala, in thesouthwest, the overwhelming majority are Tamilsfrom the southeasternstate of Tamil Nadu (onceMadras). Indian vegetarianfood is justifiably popularin Malaysia. Southern vegetarian dishes are cleverlyspiced (a popular combina

tion is brown mustard seeds, blackgram dhal, curryleaves and dried chillies), often combined with coconut milk or freshly grated coconut for extra flavour.Steamed bread (idlr) and the finest, crispiest pancakeimaginable (dosay) are made from ground blackgram dhal and rice.

Traditionally, Hindu vegetarian meals with amound of rice, some dhal, several spicy vegetabledishes, a glass of thin spicy soup (rasam), hot sour

Watching thepreparation ofRoti Canai, aMalaysian adaptation ofan Indianbread, is almost asgood as eating it

SPICY SOUL MATES 19

Right.Provision shops

catering to

Malaysia'ssouthern Indians

sell everythingfrom betel nut tospices, garlands

ofjasmine toposters of the

latest Tamilmovie heart

throb.Opposite:

Indians have usedspices to flavour

food forthousands of

years; Ayurvedicor traditionalmedicine also

makes use ofanastonishing range

ofdried roots,spices and herbs.

pickle and yoghurt are served on the ultimatedisposable plate: a square piece of freshly washedbanana leaf. Indian Muslim restaurants offeringmore robust fare, with spicy dry mutton, crab curry,prawns, fried fish and other dishes as well as vegetables caught up with the idea, offering a spreadof such dishes served on a banana leaf. Today, manyrestaurants simply advertise "banana leaf curry",meaning, of course, you eat what's spread on theleaf rather than the leaf itself.

India's most spectacular contribution to theMalaysian culinaryscene is the roti canai

(literally "flattenedbread''). This is an adaptation of roti paratha,traditionally made witha mixture of white andwholemeal flour. TheMalaysian version combines pure white flour,ghee and- the secrettouch-a little evaporated or condensedmilk for an extra lightdough, which is kneaded and rolled into balls andleft to stand.

Then comes the dramatic part, as the ball ofdough is punched flat and then grasped at the edgeand swung around in ever increasing circles tomake a paper-thin pancake. This is then flattened,shaped and fried golden brown in ghee. Sometheatrical yoti makers will even throw the cookedbread into the air with a flourish before chopping

it, karate fashion, with the edge of the hands.Finally, the yoti canai arrives crisp and crunchy,

with bowls of curry gravy or dhal that normallyaccompany it. If the dough is filled with choppedonion and minced mutton or chicken before beingfried, the resulting stuffed pancake, known asmurtabal<:, is a meal in itself.

Malaysia'S Indian hawkers have created uniqueversions of several local dishes, preparing foodsyou'd never find in India. Indian Mee Goreng, forexample, combines fresh yellow Chinese noodles,

beancurd, beansproutsand dried shrimppaste. Another noodledish is the Indian version ofMee Siam (itselfa Malay version ofThai-style noodles).And then there's Indian Rojak, vegetablesand deep-fried fritterswith a sweet sauce,totally different fromthe Malay and Nonyaversions.

Indian curry puffs-pastry with a spicy potatofilling-have been adopted enthusiastically by theMalays and Chinese, who create their own versions,sometimes adding pieces ofcooked egg and chickenand creating a superb shortcrust pastry that is deepfried to a melt-in-the-mouth texture.

Rich Indian mutton or lamb soup is a universalfood-stall favourite, while Indian curries featuringchicken or fish are popular throughout Malaysia.


Feasts from the JungleBorneofood: ingenious ways with the

abundant resources ofBorneo

Smoked wild boar stir fried with freshly cutbamboo shoot, braised fern tips plucked from

the jungle, sweet juicy clams fried with a slathering ofchillies and herbs and raw fish salad drenchedwith lime juice are just some of the delights thatcome out of the kitchens of Malaysian Borneo.

Sabah and Sarawak are peopled by a bewildering range of ethnic groups, each with their ownculinary specialities. The influx of Chinese immigrants during the 19th and early 20th centuries ledto the adoption of certain Chinese cooking styles,especially stir frying, with seasonings such as soysauce now found in almost every kitchen.

More recently, since the formation of Malaysiain 1963, the arrival of Indians, Malays and Chinesefrom Peninsular Malaysia have further influencedlocal styles so that today, traditional Borneo dishesare generally found only in the longhouses aridremote villages ofthe interior, or in isolated coastalsettlements.

Naturally, the diet of people living along theestuaries and coastline is dominated by seafood, andas the majority of coastal people are Muslim, porkis never eaten. Inland folk, predominantly non-Muslim, enjoy whatever can be caught in the rivers orforest, such as wild pig, deer and other jungle game.

Rice, especially "hill" ric:;e grown in non-irrigated

fields, is the favourite staple, although in some areas,a starchy porridge made from the sago palm isstill enjoyed on occasion. The semi-nomadic PenanofSarawak are renowned for their regular harvesting ofthe sago palm, as are the Bisaya in southwestSabah, while some hill tribes such as Sabah'sMuruts make a similar porridge from tapioca roots.

In many remote regions, the people ofSabah andSarawak have developed methods of preservingfood, an essential art in the absence ofrefrigeration.Although smoking is common, another specialityinvolves packing chunks of raw pork or fish into awide bamboo or a glazed jar with salt and cookedrice. The flavour of this delicacy, which is left forseveral months to cure, is, to say the least, challenging to the uninitiated.

Lengths of fresh bamboo-the ubiquitous utensil of the jungle-are also packed with raw rice ormeat and placed near a fire to steam.

Although cooking styles vary, the general trendis for coastal cuisines to be more "Malay" in theiruse ofspices and coconut milk. Interior cooks makeuse of the abundance of wild vegetables (includingseveral types of edible fern), herbs and sour fruits.Dried fish, dried prawns and dried shrimp paste arepopular seasonings throughout Sabah and Sarawak,as they are in Peninsular Malaysia.

Opposite:Wild bamboosmake a readilyavailable cookingutensil in thejungle. Just fill .with soaked stickyrice, roast over afire and enjoy!

FEASTS FROM THE JUNGLE 23

The Food of LoveNonya cooking: a happy marriage

ofChinese and Malay cuisines

Opposite.These Straits

Chinese or Nonyaladies, enjoying a

game of cards,typify the fusion

ofMalay andChinese elementswhich makes this

culture and its .cuisine so

fascinating

Until about a decade ago, Malaysia's unique andarguably most delicious cuisine was in danger

ofdisappearing. Fortunately for lovers of fine food,increasing consciousness of Malaysia'S diverse heritage and a desire to preserve it seem to have savedthe cuisine of the Nonyas. An increasing numberofrestaurants now feature Nonya cuisine, and theprinting of Nonya recipes in books and magazinesnow means that enthusiastic cooks of any ethnicbackground can reproduce this cuisine at home.

The so-called Straits-born Chinese, descendantsof early settlers in Penang and Malacca, combineelements ofboth Chinese and Malay culture, quiteunlike the mass of Chinese migrants who arrivedaround the tum of this century and up until the1930s. These pioneering Chinese traders, many ofwhom became wealthy men, took Malay wives,although as time went on, children of these earlymixed marriages generally married pure Chineseor the children ofother Straits Chinese, thus greatlydiluting any Malay blood they may have had.

The women, known as Nonyas, and the men,Babas, generally spoke a mixture ofMalay and Chinese dialect, dressed in modified Malay style, andcombined the best of both cuisines in the kitchen.

Typical Chinese ingredients (such as beancurd,soy sauce, preserved soya beans, black prawn

paste, sesame seeds, dried mushrooms and driedlily buds) blended beautifully with Malay herbs,spices and fragrant roots. Being non-Muslim, theStraits Chinese cooked pork dishes Malay style, andadded distinctive local ingredients (coconut milk,spices and sour tamarind juice) to basic Chineserecipes. The Nonya pork satay, served with a spicypineapple sauce, demonstrates perfectly this felicitous blending of styles.

Straits-Chinese or Nonya cuisine often requirespainstaking effort, and in increasingly modem households, there is little time to spend preparing complexdishes for everyday meals. In old-style households,the Nonya wife devoted all her time to running thehome and supervising the kitchen, assisted by a smallarmy of servants-a luxury few modem Malaysianwomen can indulge in. Another reason leading to thenear-demise of Nonya cuisine is that today, manyNonya girls marry non-8traits-bom Chinese, andtherefore tend to cook the kind of food theirCantonese or Hokkien husbands are familiar with.

Distinct differences evolved between the cuisineof the Penang Nonyas and that of Malacca. In

Penang, geographically much closer to Thailand, theNonyas developed a passion for sour food (using lotsof lime and tamarind juice), fiery hot chillies,fragrant herbs and pungent black prawn paste.


A spread ofNonyafood,

which is oftentime-consuming to

prepare but wellworth the effort

Malacca Nonyas prepare food that is generallyrich in coconut milk and Malay spices (such as coriander and cumin), and usually add more sugarthan their northern counterparts.

Many simple and-in the days when every Malaysian house had its own garden-easily availablefruits and vegetables were prepared in imaginativeways by the Nonyas. Unripe jackfruit, the heart ofthe banana bud, sweet potato leaves and tiny sour

carambola or belimbing fruits were all transformedin the kitchen. The back garden also yielded the herbsthat make Nonya food so aromatic: the kaffir limeleaf, pungent polygonum or laksa leaf, the camphorsmelling leaf of the rhizome, zedoary (cekur or kencur), fresh turmeric leaves and fragrant pandan.

One of the most popular Nonya dishes amongMalaysians ofany background is laksa, a rice-noodlesoup which blends Malay seasonings with Chinesenoodles. The Malacca Nonya version is rich in coconut milk, its basic spice paste made from driedprawns, fresh turmeric, chillies, dried shrimp paste,lemon grass and galangal (lengkuas).

Just one look and whiff of its fragrance will marka Penang Nonya Laksa, which uses almost all thespice paste ingredients of the Malacca version, thenadds the fragrant bud of the wild pink ginger, laksaleaf, pungent black prawn paste, shredded pineapple and raw onion, and drenches the lot with atamarind-sour gravy with no coconut milk added.

Nonya cakes are renowned for their richness andvariety. Most are based on Malay recipes, using inexpensive and easily available freshly grated tapioca root, sweet potato, agar agar gelatine, glutinousrice, palm sugar and coconut milk, with additional•flavouring from the pandan leaf.

Little touches often transform an already delicious dish, such as the Malay favourite made withglutinous "black" rice, coconut milk, palm sugar andflavoured with pandan. Nonya cooks usually add afew "dragon's eyes", dried longan fruits, for anelusive smoky flavour.

As any Nonya cook would confirm, it's the littlethings that mean a lot.


When East Meets WestEurasian food: a blending ofstyles,

decidedly on the spicy side

"\V {hat sort of food would you expect from aW Christian cook living in Malaysia, whose

ancestors were Portuguese, Malay, Javanese andIndian? To find the answer, head for Malacca, thehistoric town on Peninsular Malaysia's west coast,just 150 kilometres from the capital, Kuala Lumpur.

When the sultanate ofMalacca fell to Portugueseinvaders in 1511, the newrulers sought to establishcontrol by encouraging Portuguese soldiers to marrylocal girls, and by bringinga number of Portuguesegirls to marry local men.

Portuguese rule endedmore than 350 years ago,yet in the so-called Portuguese Settlement of Malacca, families have namessuch as Da Silva, Dias and Sequeira, and many ofthe people speak Cristao, a Portuguese-based dialect.

The only things Portuguese about Malacca'sEurasian community today are the Catholic faith andthe names, and many of the people living here areoften a mixture of several different Asian races.

The children of cross-cultural marriages during ..the 19th and 20th centuries, where one parent was

most commorily English or Dutch, blend into Malaysian society today, and there are no enclaves ofthese Eurasians such as the one in Malacca.

Naturally, the mixed heritage of Malaysia's Eurasians has produced a fascinating cuisine with manyexcellent dishes. Cooks of Portuguese descent are

renowned for their generous spicing, particularly insuch dishes as Devil Curry,an adaptation of.GoaneseVindaloo where vinegar andchillies vie for attention.

Perhaps the most striking characteristic of Eurasian cooks is their readinessto borrow ingredients frommany cultures. Malay herbscombine with a favourite

Chinese cut, belly pork, Indian brown mustard, vinegar and a paste of freshly pounded chillies. Englishor Dutch-style dishes are transformed from innocuous stews to distinctly Eurasian dishes with the addition of a splash of oyster or soy sauce, a handfulofspices, a few green chillies or sour tamarind juice.

With so many culinary traditions to choose from,it's not surprising that Malaysia's Eurasians have produced such a repertoire of unusual dishes.

Dancers, tracingtheir descent fromthe Portuguesewho ruled Malaccaduring the 16thcentury entertainin the so-calledPortugueseSettlement.

WHEN EAST MEETS WEST 27

Part Two: The Malaysian KitchenFrom the mortar and pestle to the food processor: thekitchen modemises while flavours remain traditional

YOU don't need a range of exotic implements tocook Malaysian food. Most of the utensils

found in the average Western kitchen can beadapted, although there are several items which willmake preparation and cooking a great deal easier.

First and foremost is something to grind or crushthe rempah or spice paste, the mixture of seasonings such as chillies, shallots and spices used toseason many dishes. The rhythmic thump,thump, thump of a granite mortar andpestle is a familiar sound throughoutthe country, yet it requires effort, timeand expertise to produce a beautifullysmooth rempah, and the proper typeof mortar and pestle is difficult tofind abroad.

Many modern Malaysian cooks use asmall strong blender, coffee grinder orfood processor to deal with large amounts ofingredients, although the faithful old batu lesong isstill kept for simple grinding tasks. (See CookingMethods for details on how to prepare rempah.)

A large, solid wooden chopping board-inMalaysia, a cross section cut from a tree trunk-isused for a multitude of tasks, together with a solidcleaver with a blade about 8-10 cm (3-4 in) deep.Any Asian supplies store should stock this type of

cleaver, which is far more effective at chopping uppoultry, fish and crabs and mincing meat than anormal kitchen knife.

For all types of Malaysian cooking, particularlyChinese, a wok is essential. The shape of theconical wok (kuali) distributes the heat evenly, whileits sloping sides ensure that when you're stir frying,food falls back into the pan and not out over theedge. It's also more practical for deep frying,requiring less oil, and allows the right amount of

evaporation for many dishes which beginwith lots of liquid and finish with atrace of very thick sauce.

Choose a heavy wok (it's safer asit's less likely to tip over) in cast iron

or specially treated steel. It's nowpossible to get woks with a non-stick

surface which can be scraped with metalfrying "shovels", unlike delicate Teflon

covered surfaces. If you are using an electriccooker, try to find a wok that has a flattenedbottom, or failing that, use a special ring that holdsthe wok securely.

To season a new wok before using it, rub theinside with a cut onion, then heat a little oil and frythe onion gently for a few minutes. Tip out the oil,rinse thoroughly with hot water and wipe the wok

Pages 28-211:A mouth-wateringvariety offreshproduce givesMalaysian cooks

'an endless arrayof options.Opposite:Traditionalkitchens may lookromantic, butmost Malaysiancooks prefertoday's modemWestemisedkitche'7s.Left:Mortar andpestle.

UTENSILS 31

(bottomright).

dry. Do not use abrasives and scourers on your wok;hot soapy water and a sponge should be sufficient.

A long-handled frying spatula for stir frying, aswell as a circular perforated ladle for lifting outdeep-fried food, are essential partners to your wok.While on the subject ofwoks, it should be noted thatextremely high heat is needed when stir frying food.Many electric cookers cannot achieve the ideal heat,and Malaysian cooks-especially Chinese -insist onat least one gas fire, often with a double ring ofgasjets. If you are using an old-style electric cookerwhich will not reach a very high heat and whichcannot be quickly reduced in temperature, youmight consider investing in a gas-fired ring for using

with your wok.Although by no means

essential, a c1aypot orearthenware belangah is an

attractive addition to yourpots and pans. The first time

you use it, you might like to try the Malaysian trickof gently frying a grated coconut until it turnsbrown. Discard the coconut, wipe the pot with acloth and store. These pots are designed to godirectly over a naked flame, and can also be usedin an oven.

Steaming is a popular method of cooking.Chinese cooks traditionally used a bamboo steaIIlerwith a plaited cover, placed inside a wok where itsits a few centimetres above boiling water. Bamboois an ideal material, as it absorbs any moisture thatcondenses on the cover.

If using multi-tiered metal steamer (whichmany Malaysian cooks now do), put a kitchen towel

under the lid to prevent moisture from drippingback onto the food.

Stores selling woks usually have perforatedmetal disks which sit above the water level insidea wok and can be used instead of a single-tieredsteamer. You can put wrapped parcels of fooddirectly on this, or, in the case of unwrapped food,on a plate set over the perforated disk. Cover thewok with a large domed lid and keep the water leveltopped up and at a gentle simmer during steaming.

An electric rice cooker is a great boon ifyou'reeating rice fairly often. It's foolproof, producing dryfluffY rice every time, and also keeps rice warm forlate-comers. Alternatively, use a heavy saucepanwith a firm-fitting lid.

Fresh banana leaves are often used to wrapbundles of food for steaming or grilling, the leafholding in the moisture and seasonings and addingits subtle flavour to the food. A layer ofgreaseproof(not waxed) paper and another layer of aluminiumfoil or, if you prefer, just the foil-will make anadequate substitute.

A few less common kitchen tools are used forspecial dishes, although a little imagination willalways produce substitutes.The four-spouted cup formaking lacy roti jala pancakescan be replaced by a sauce dispenser; a heavy frying pansubsitutes for the metal griddleor tawa used for Indian breads,and large ladles will do the task ofspe'cial flat mesh baskets used to remove noodlesfrom boiling water.

32 PART TWO: COOKING IN MALAYSIA

Cooking MethodsMastering afew basic techniques

makes all the difference

M alaysian cooks use a wide range of cookingmethods-shallow and deep frying, stir fry

ing, braising, boiling, steaming and grilling overcharcoal or under a grill.

It's essential to know how to prepare the rempahor basic seasoning paste required for many dishes.Before beginning, all the ingredients should befinely chopped. The principle is to grind or blendthe toughest ingredients first, adding softer andwetter ingredients towards the end. Whether usinga mortar and pestle, a blender or food processor, theorder is the same. First grind any dried spices ornuts until fine, then add hard ingredients such aslemon grass, and galangal (already sliced or chopped in small pieces). Pound or process until finethen add softer rhizomes such as fresh turmeric andginger, soaked dried chillies and sliced freshchillies. When these are fine, add the ingredientsthat are full of moi~ture, such as chopped shallotsand garlic, as well as soft shrimp paste.

Ifyou are using a food processor or blender, youwill probably need to add just a little liquid to keepthe blades turning. If the rempah is to be fried, adda little of the specified amount of cooking oil, whileif it is to be cooked in coconut milk, add some ofthis. While processing, you will probably need tostop the machine frequently to scrape down the

sides. Continue until you have a fine paste.Some cooks add water rather than the cooking

medium to the blender; this means that the rempahwill need to be cooked for a longer period of timebefore adding the other ingredients, to allow thewater to evaporate and the rempah to eventually fryrather than just stew.

The spice paste is generally gently fried beforeany other liquid is added. Malaysian cooks will tellyou to cook the rempah "until it smells fragrant" or"until the oil comes out", both accurate descriptionsof what happens after 3-5 minutes of frying overgentle heat, stirring frequently. The spice pastemust be thoroughly cooked at this stage or. theresulting dish will have a raw taste to it.

Coconut milk is often added to the basic spicepaste, generally in two stages. The thinner coconutmilk is added, a little at a time, to the cooked spicepaste, (often after pieces of meat or chicken havealso been browned) and is stirred frequently, liftedwith a ladle and poured back into the pan, until itcomes to the boil. This process ensures the coconutmilk does not curdle. The coconut gravy is thensimmered gently, with the pan uncovered. Thethick coconut milk or cream is added just beforeserving, heated through but not boiled, to enrich andthicken the gravy or sauce.

COOKING METHODS 33

Malaysian IngredientsA cornucopia ofbasic items, rangingfrom

thefamiliar to thefrankly exotic

Most Malaysian ingredients will already be knownto those familiar with Chinese, Malay and Indianfood. These ingredients are descnbed in the following pages, and a range of substitutes suggested.Where local names may be ofhelp in identification,these are provided in brackets. (M: Malay; C: Cantonese; T: Tamil; H: Hindi).

AGAR AGAR: a setting agent made from seaweedwhich hardens without refrigeration, used forcakes and desserts. Most Malaysian cooks preferto use powdered agar agar rather than strands.One teaspoon will set 1-1 Yz cups of liquid.

ANCHOVIES, DRIED: see lkanBilis.

ASAM GELUGOR: dried slices of a sour fruit(Garcinia atnoviridis) used instead of

tamarind pulp in some Malay andNonya dishes; the latter can be usedas a substitute. (see Tamarind)

BAMBOO SHOOTS: the fresh variety must bepeeled, sliced and simmered in water for about30 minutes. Boil canned bamboo shoots for 5minutes to reduce any metallic flavour.

BELIMBING: known by its Malay name locally,though sometimes referred to as carambola

elsewhere, this pale green acidicfruit about 5-8 em (2-3 in) in lengthis added to curries, soups and pickles. A related plant with a large, fiveedged sweet fruit, star fruit, is alsoknown as belimbing or belimbing manis.

BEANCURD: several types ofsoya bean curd areused in Malaysia: hard beancurd squares(C: tau kwa); soft beancurd (C: tau faa); anddried, deep-fried beancurd (C: tau faa pok),used in laksa and some other vegetable dishes.Sheets ofdried beancurd skin (C: tau faa juk) areused as a wrapping, while long strips of driedbeancurd skin (C: tau foo kee) are added to meator vegetable dishes. Small squares offermentedbean curd (C: namyee), sold in jars, are used toflavour some Chinese dishes.

BEANSPROUTS: sprouted green mung peas-areknown locally as taugeh. Store in fridge coveredwith water for 2-3 days, changing water daily.

BLACK CHINESE VINEGAR: has a distinctivefragrance somewhat similar to balsamic vinegarand is used sparingly as a seasoning. Sometimesknown as Tientsin vinegar.

BLACK SAUCE, SWEET: a thick, treacle-like


being pounded. Chilli powder (M: serbuk cill) ismade from finely ground dried chillies; do notconfuse it with American chilli powder which isa blend of several seasonings as well as chilli.Chilli oil, available in small bottles, is used toenliven some Szechuan dishes.

CHIVES: "Chinese" or "coarse"chives, flat leaves about 30 cm (12in) long, are used as a vegetable andseasoning. (C: koo choy).

CINNAMON: the thick, fragrant brown bark ofatype ofcassia (M: kayu manis) is used rather thantrue cinnamon. The latter, a native ofSri Lanka,is much finer in texture with a more delicate inflavour. Chunks ofcassia bark, often used in meatand rice dishes, are preferable to powderedcinnamon.

CLOVES: a dark brown nail-shaped spice alwaysused whole and not in powdered form.

COCONUT MILK: In Malaysia, the grated fleshofthe mature coconut is squeezed with water toobtain coconut milk. Normally, I;z cup of wateris added to 1 coconut and squeezed· to obtainthick milk or coconut "cream"; the flesh is thenkneaded with another 21/ 2 cups of water and

CLOUD EAR FUNGUS: a shrivelled greyishbrown fungus also known as wood fungus(C: mok yee), this should be soaked inwarm water before use. The wrinkled, ear-like pieces swell to at leastfour times their dried size.

sauce used in fresh spring rolls (popiah) and someother dishes (C: tim cheong).

BROWN MUSTARD SEED: a small reddishbrown seed used mainly in southern Indian cooking (M: l:!iji sawi; T: kardugoo).

CANDLENUT: a round, cream-coloured waxy nut(M: buah keras) pounded and added to Malay andNonya dishes for flavour and texture. As they donot keep well, store in a jar in a freezer. Substitute macadamia nuts or almonds.

CARDAMOM: the tiny black seeds of thisintensely fragrant spice are encased in fibrous,straw-coloured pods; smash the pod with acleaver or pestle before using whole. Decorticated cardamom seeds can be used as a substitute.(M: buah pelaga; T: elakai; H: illaich~).

CELERY: local or "Chinese" celery (M: daunsaderi, daun sop) is very different

to the normal western variety, being much smaller

with very slender stemsand particularly pungent

leaves. Used as a herb insoups and some other dishes. Substitute

with the leaves of regular celery.

CHILLI: three main types of chilli (M: cabai, lada,cill) are used: the normal finger-length red (ripe)or green (immature) chilli; tiny fiery hot bird'seye chillies (M: cili pad~) and dried red chillies (M: cili keYing). The latter must be broken inseveral pieces and soaked in warm water before

MALA YSIAN INGREDIENTS 35

squeezed to obtain thin coconut milk. The bestsubstitutes are either powdered coconut (sometimes sold by the Malay name, santan) or cannedcoconut cream, both of which should ~e dilutedaccording to the manufacturer's instructions.

CORIANDER: small beige-coloured seeds(M: ketumbar) which are a vital ingredient inmost spice mixtures. Fresh coriander leaf,sometimes known as cilantro or Chinese parsleyabroad, is widely used as a garnish.

CUMIN: frequently used in conjunction with coriander in curries, cumin (M: jintan puteh) is somewhat similar to the caraway seed in appearance.

CURRY LEAF: an important ingredient in southern Indian cuisine and also used in someMalay fish curries, this small, dark greenleaf (M: daun kari; T: karuvapillat) can be

found dried in some specialty storesabroad. No substitute.

DAUN KESUM: sold under its Malay name, andsometimes also referred to as daunlaksa (literally "laksa leaf') be

cause It is traditionally added tothat dish. This particularlypungent herb (Polygonum hydropiper) is sometimes knownas Vietnamese mint abroad, although itbears no resemblance to mint in eithertaste or appearance.

FENNEL: an important curry spice, slightly fatterand whitter than cumin and with a sweet

fragrance (M: jintan manis). This is sometimesmistakenly called anise in Malaysia.

FENUGREEK: hard yellowiSh-brown seeds oftenused in fish curries. (M: halba).

FIVE-SPICE POWDER: as the name implies, thisis a mixture of spices (star anise, fennel, cloves,cinnamon and Szechuan pepper). Used in someChinese dishes (C: ng heong fun).

GALANGAL: known in Malaysia as lengkuas (laosin Indonesia), this ginger-like rhizome impartsa distinctive flavour to many dishes. Tryto use young pinkish galangal as it ismore tender. Always chop galangalbefore pounding or blending, as it is oftentough. Slices of dried galangal must besoaked in boiling water for 20-30 minutes beforeuse; a better sub~titute is the water-packed jarsof sliced galangal exported from Thailand (whereit is called kha).

GARLIC: an important seasoning in all Malaysiankitchens, the size oflocal garlic cloves is generally smaller than that of garlic sold in western

countries. Use your own J'udgement whenfollowing the recipes.

GINGER: fresh ginger (M: halia) is used by allethnic groups in Malaysia. Scrape the skin offwith a knife before using. Do not substitute withpowdered ginger; any Chinese store overseasshould stock this vital ingredient.

IKAN BILlS: known locally by the Malay name,these small salted dried anchovies are used to


/

NOODLES: many types offresh and dried noodlesare popular. Packs of dried noodles includewheat flour noodles (C: mien); dried rice vermicelli (C: meehoon), and mung pea noodles (C: sohoon), known as "cellophane" or transparent noodles. The main types of fresh noodles are thickround yellow noodles made from wheat flour andegg; thin round or narrow flat beige-coloured noodles made from wheat flour; wide, flat, white riceflour noodles (C: kway teow), and round rice-flournoodles (laksa noodles).

NUTMEG: used in some savoury dishes and soupsby Malay cooks. Try to buy the whole nut

MUSHROOMS, DRIED BLACK: Dried mushrooms, either dark black or deep brown incolour, should be soaked in warm water for 20minutes before use, and the stems discarded.

LIME LEAF, FRAGRANT: also known as kaffir lime leaf and widely used in Thaicuisine, this adds an intense fragranceto some Malay and Nonya dishes (M:daun limau purut). Dried leaves can be usedas a substitute in cooked dishes.

Slightly less acidic and morefragrant, the small round lime

(M: limau kestun) is sometimesknown by its Filipino name, cala

mansi, abroad. Lemonjuice can besubstituted for large limes,. while a

mixture of lemon and orange juice (2 parts to 1)approximates the acidity and flavour of thesmaller lime.

KRUPUK: dried wafers made from tapioca flourand prawns or fish; one Indonesian variety ismade from a bitter nut, melinjo (krupuk emping).

Make sure they are thoroughly dry before deepfrying in oil for a few seconds, when they puffup spectacularly. Used as a garnish or snack.

LEMON GRASS: This fragrant lemony herb,which resembles a miniature leek, is used wholein soups or curries, or pounded as part of the

basic spice mix. When poundinglemon grass (M: sera!), slice off the

root end and use only the tender bot-tom portion (about 10 cm!4 in); slice before

pounding or blending. Dried or powdered lemongrass (often sold under the Indonesian name,sereh) can be used as a substitute. About 1 teaspoon powder equals 1 stalk oflemon grass.

LILY BUDS, DRIED: the Chinese aptly call thesedried flowers "golden needles" (C: khim chiam).

They are usually knotted for a neater appearancebefore being added to soups or vegetable dishes.No substitute.

season some dishes and also fried to make acrunchy side dish or appetiser. Chinese stores sella much smaller, thinner variety no more than 2.5cm (1 in) long, which has a slightly differentflavour to the common variety; this is sometimessold as "silver fish".

LIME: two types oflime are used in Malaysia. Thelarger lime is slightly smaller and less pointedthan the average lemon, and changes fromgreen to yellow when ripe (M: limau nipis).

MALAYSIAN INGREDIENTS 37

(M: buah pala) and grate just before using as thepowdered spice quickly loses its fragrance.

OYSTER SAUCE: frequently added to stir-friedvegetable dishes and meat, this sauce must berefrigerated after the bottle is opened. Ifyou donot like monosodium glutamate, choose yourbrand carefully, as most are laden with this.controversial addititive.

PALM SUGAR: generally sold in Malaysia as gulamelaka (Malacca sugar), made from either thearen or coconut palm is available in hard goldenbrown cylinders. Substitute with soft brownsugar and, ifyou have it, a touch ofmaple syrup.

P ANDAN LEAF: see Screwpine Leaf

POLYGONUM: see Daun Kesum

PRAWNS, DRIED: Soak in warm water for about5 minutes to soften before use, and discard anyb~ts ofhard shell. (M: udang keYing; C: hay bee).

RICE: many types of rice are used, the mostpopular for daily meals being fragrant long-grainwhite rice; some Indian recipes require thenutty-flavoured basmati rice. Two types ofglutinous rice are used in a number of sweet andsavoury dishes: the cloudy white grain (M: bemspulot) and the brownish-black grain (pulot hitam).All rice should be thoroughly washed in severalchanges of water before using.

RICE WINE: a seasoning used in Chinese cuisine;available in small bottles. Substitute dry sherry.

ROSE ESSENCE: a heady fragrance from the

Middle East, used in Malay desserts, drinks andsome Indian rice dishes.

SALTED CABBAGE: this should be soaked inseveral changes of water for about I hour toremove excess saltiness. Used in some Chineseand Nonya dishes (C: ham choy).

SALTED DUCK EGG: a popular accompanimentto rice and savoury Malay dishes (M: telormasin). Wash offany black coating (often addedto protect the egg), boilIO minutes, then cut inhalf while still in the shell.

SALTED SOYA BEANS: usually sold in jars, withthe soft soya beans in a brownish sauce (C: taucheong). Mash slightly before using.

SCREWPINE (PANDAN) LEAF: imparts a dis-tinct yet subtle flavour to a range of Malay and

Nonya dishes, both savouryand sweet. The leaf (M:daun pandan) is either

raked with the tines of a fork torelease the fragrance and tied before being

added to the pot, or pounded to extract the juicefor desserts. Bottled essence can be substituted indesserts, but if fresh or dried pandan leaves arenot available, omit from savoury dishes.

SESAME OIL: roasted sesame seeds are groundto make this oil, used only as a seasoning, not afrying medium, by Chinese cooks (C: rna yau).

SHALLOTS: tiny round red onions (M:bawang merah), usually pounded aspart of a basic seasoning mix and


TAMARIND: dried tamarind fruits are generallysold in pulp form in Malaysia, with the stones andsome other fibrous matter still intact (M: asam).The juice, used to give acidity and fragrance tomany dishes, is obtained-by soaking the pulp in

warm water for about 5 minutes, then squeezingto extract the juice which should be sievedbefore use. If using cleaned tamarin~ pulpwithout stones, halve the amounts specified inthese recipes.

TURMERIC: a rhizome similar to ginger inappearance but with vivid yellow interior. Freshturmeric (M: kunyit) is generally preferred inMalaysia, although 1 teaspoon of powderedturmeric can be used as a substitute for about1 cm (I;z in) fresh turmeric.

WILD GINGER BUD: the beautiful pink waxyflower from a variety of ginger sometimesknown as torch ginger (botanical name has changed fromPhaeomeria speciosa to Etlingera elatior). This flower, usedin bud form, gives an inimitable flavour to some Malay and Nonyadishes. No substitute. (M: bunga siantan orbunga kantan).

YAM BEAN: native to tropical America, where it is known as jicama,

the yam bean is a tuber with a-beige skin and crisp white interior.Yam bean (M: bengkuang) is frequently mis-named turnip in Malaysia.

often finely sliced and crisp fried in oil overmoderate heat to provide a garnish. If shallotsare not available, try to use red or brown onion(1 medium onion equals about 6-8 shallots).

SHRIMP ~ASTE: shrimp paste varies in colourand moisture content. Dried shrimp paste (M:belacan) , varies in colour and texture frompurplish pink and rather moist to crumbly beige

cakes or hard brownish-black squares. Belacan(pronounced "blachan"), which is some

times sold overseas under theIndonesian name, tram, must be

cooked before eating; theeasiest method is to wrap in a

square offoil and grill or cook in a dry pan for acouple of minutes on each side, until dry andcrumbly with a fragrant smell. Belacan must notbe confused with the completely different blackshrimp paste (M: petis; C: hay koh) , a blacktreacly seasoning used by Nonya cooks.

SOY SAUCE: two types are used in Malaysiancooking; light soy sauce, (M: kicap soya masin)which is thinner, lighter in colour and saltier thanblack soy sauce (M: kicap soya pekat), which isgenerally used during long slow cooking or togive a dark colouring to a dish.

SPRING ONION: known also as scallion, greenonion or most misleading, as shallot, the springonion has slender stalkswhich are white at thebase with dark greenleaves (M: daun bawang).

MALAYSIAN INGREDIENTS 39

Part Three: The RecipesBasic recipesfor condiments, sauces and pickles precede

those for--main recipes, which begin on page 46

Malaysians generally present several dishes ateach meal, allowing diners to serve themselves towhatever they want. As a general rule, theserecipes will serve 4-6 people as part ofa meal withrice and 2-3 other dishes.

SAMBAL BELACAN

12 large red chillies, roughly chopped2 tablespoons dried shrimp paste, roasted150 m1 (5 oz) water4 tablespoons lime juice

Blend the chillies and shrimp paste with the water.Season to taste with lime juice.

CUCUMBER AND PINEAPPLE SAMBAL

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced%pineapple, peeled and diced1 red chilli, finely sliced1 medium red onion, peeled and sliced%teaspoon salt2 tablespoons sugar3 tablespoons lime juice

Combine all ingredients in salad bowl and mixthoroughly.

Measurements

Measurements in this book are given in volumeas far as possible: 1 measuring cup contains250 ml (roughly 8 oz); 1 teaspoon contains 5ml, while 1 tablespoon contains 15 ml or theequivalent of3 teaspoons. Australian readersplease note that the standard Australianmeasuring spoon is larger, containing 20 mlor 4 teaspoons, so use only 3/t tablespoon whenfollowing the recipes. Where metric measurements are given, approximate imperial conversions follow in brackets.

Time Estimates

Time estimates for preparation only (excluding cooking) are based on the assumption thata food processor or blender will be used.

Q) quick and very easy to prepare

Q) Q) relatively easy; less than 15 minutes preparation

Q) Q) Q) takes more than 15 minutes toprepare

Opposite:(anti-clockwisefrom top) PickledPapaya, StuffedChilli Pickle andDried CucumberAcar.

BASIC RECIPES 41

Opposite:Mango Kerabu

(left) andCucumber &

Pineapple Sambal(right).

PICKLED PAPAYA

1 under-ripe papaya (750 g/11/Z Ib)100 ml (3 fl oz) distilled white vinegar3 tablespoons sugar%teaspoon salt5 bird's-eye chillies, left whole

Peel the papaya, cut in half1engthwise and removethe seeds. Cut into very thin slices. Wash and drythe papaya. Bring the vinegar, sugar and salt to theboil. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Mix wellwith the chillies and papaya and keep overnight.Store in a covered container in the refrigerator upto I month.

DRIED CUCUMBER ACAR

2 cucumbers (750 gil%lb)1 large carrot

Dressing:% cup distilled white vinegar3 tablespoons sugar%teaspoon saltpinch of turmeric powder2 shallots, sliced1 cm (% in) ginger, julienned1 clove garlic, peeled and shredded2 tablespoons raisins

Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and removethe seeds. Cut into matchstick pieces 3 em (1 %in)in length. Peel the carrot and cut the same size asthe cucumber. Dry the cucumber and carrot in thehot sun for 2 hours. Combine the vinegar, sugar, saltand turmeric and bring to the boil. Remove immediately from the heat and allow to cool. Add the

shallot, ginger, garlic and raisins and mix with thecucumber and carrot. Store in the refrigerator up toI month.

MANGO CHUTNEY

2-3 green unripe mangoes (500 glllb)

Spice Paste:6 shallots5 cloves garlic2 em (%in) ginger3 red chillies%teaspoon white poppy seeds1 teaspoon cumin1 teaspoon fennel1 teaspoon corianderl/Z teaspoon turmeric powder2 tablespoons oil

lVhole Spices:3 cloves4 cm (2% in) cinnamon stick3 star anise1 cardamom pod, lightly bruised

Dressing:4 tablespoons sugar1 teaspoon saltl/Z cup distilled white vinegar1 heaped tablespoon raisins

Peel the mangoes and cut the flesh into I cm(%in) dice.

To prepare spice paste, chop shallots, garlic,ginger ana. chillies finely and blend with spice seedsuntil fine, adding a little oil to keep the bladesturning. Heat remaining oil in pan, add the blended

42 BASIC RECIPES

ingredients and whole spices and cook gently for20 minutes. Combine dressing ingredients and add,together with the mangoes, to the pan. Reduce to lowheat and cook for about %hour until mangoes aresoft. Can be kept in the refrigerator for 1 month.

Add more sugar (l%-2 tablespoons) if mango isvery sour.

CHILLI PEANUTS WITH ANCHOVIES

4 red chillies1 shallot1 tablespoon oil%teaspoon salt1 tablespoon sugar100 g (3% oz) roasted peanuts with skin30 g (1 oz) anchovies (ikan bilis), heads and

intestinal tract removed and fried till crisp

Blend the chillies and shallot together. Heat the oiland gently fry the blended mixture with the salt andsugar for 1 minute. Add the peanuts and anchovies.Stir fry for 3 minutes and remove from heat. Keepin a bottle in the fridge up to 3 weeks.

MANGO KERABU

1 large ripe mango (500 glllb), peeled4 mint leaves, roughly chopped4 coriander leaves, roughly chopped

Dressing:5 red chillies150 ml (5 fl oz) water3 tablespoons sugar150 ml (5 fl oz) distilled white vinegar1 teaspoon salt

Make dressing by blending chillies with water. Addthe remaining dressing ingredients and bring to theboil. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Dice themango and combine with mint, coriander and dressing. Serve immediately.

CHILLI SAUCE

5 red chillies, roughly chopped150 ml (5 fl oz) water3 tablespoons sugar150 ml (5 fl oz) distilled white vinegar1 teaspoon salt

Blend chillies with water. Add the remainingingredients and bring to the boil. Remove from heatand allow to cool.

CHILLI GINGER SAUCE

6 red chillies, roughly chopped3 cm (11/4 in) ginger, chopped4 cloves garlic150 ml (5 fl oz) water2 teaspoons salt5 tablespoons sugar5 tablespoons lime juice1 teaspoon sesame oil

Blend together the chilli, ginger, garlic and water.Season to taste with the salt, sugar, lime juice andsesame oil.

44 BASIC RECIPES

FRIED SHALLOTS

200 g (7% oz) shallots1 litre (4 cupS) oil

Soak shallots in salted water for 5 minutes. Peel theskin and slice thinly. Drain the shallots and drythoroughly on a cloth. Heat oil in wok and fryshallots over moderate heat until golden brown.

Remove, drain and leave until cold. Store inairtight container. Do not add salt or the shallotswill soften.

STUFFED CHILLI PICKLE

%small green unripe papaya or 1 small whiteradish

1 teaspoon salt8 green beans, slashed lengthwise halfway

down13 cm (5 in) cucumber, halved crosswise then

cut in coarse pieces16 shallots, pricked all over with a fork%cup cauliflower Horets, broken very small%cup cabbage, coarsely cut5 cm (2 in) ginger, finely shredded5 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced1 teaspoon brown mustard seed2 heaped tablespoon dried prawns, soaked in

warm water15 cm (6 in) fresh turmeric2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste2 tablespoons oil2 cups white vinegar%cup sugar1 teaspoon salt4 green chillies

Ifusing papaya, begin 2-3 days in advance by shredding the peeled papaya as finely as possible. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt, mix well and sun dry untilcompletely dried up. Alternatively, finely shred thewhite radish, salt and dry for about %day in the sun.

When the papaya or radish are almost dry,prepare the beans, cucumber, shallots, cauliflowerand cabbage, sprinkle with about 1 teaspoon salt andleave in sun for 2-3 hours. Salt the ginger andgarlic and sun dry separately for 2-3 hours.

Blend the mustard seed until fine, add driedprawns and blend until fine, then add turmeric,garlic and shrimp paste and blend, adding a little ofthe oil if necessary. Heat the remaining oil and fryblended ingredients until fragrant, then mix invinegar, sugar and salt, stirring until dissolved.Remove from heat.

Choose straight chillies with the stalk still on.Slit each chilli lengthwise, leaving 0.5 cm e~ in) atboth ends still intact. Use a sharp knife to carefullyremove the seeds and membrane from inside thechillies. Stuff each chilli with a little of the driedpapaya, then mix with the prepared vegetables andginger.

Pack carefully inti:> jars. Pour over the vinegarmix and close tightly. Leave 3 days before serving.Will keep at least 1 month without refrigeration.

BASIC RECIPES 45

POPIAH

The Nonya version of a popular Chinese snackusing fresh wrappers is very substantial and suitableas a lunch dish with something sweet and sinful tofollow. @!)@/H2l>

1/4 cup oil3 eggs

Filling:8 shallots8 cloves garlic2 tablespoons salted soya bean paste500 g (lIb) yam bean (bengkuimg), shredded2 hard beancurd, fried and shredded1 teaspoon black soy sauce100 g (3% oz) peeled prawns70 g (2% oz) cabbage, shredded100 g (3% oz) green beans, shredded4 tablespoons sugar2 teaspoons salt

For Serving:20 large fresh popiah skinssweet black sauce (tim cheong) to taste10 cloves garlic, blended to make garlic paste6 red chillies, blended to a pastelong-leafed lettuce100 g (3% oz) beansprouts, blanched50 g (1% oz) dry roasted peanuts, skinned and

coarsely ground3 tablespoons fried shallots

Beat the eggs lightly, grease an omelette pan with%teaspoon oil and make 3 very thin omelettes.When cooked, shred finely and set aside.

To make the filling, crush the shallots andgarlic together with the salted soya bean paste. HeatII.t cup oil and fry until fragrant. Reserve 3 teaspoonsof this. Leave the remaining fried paste in the panand add the yam bean.Cook for 5 minutes untilsoftened, then add the fried beancurd and cook untilvery soft. Season with black soy sauce.

Use 1 teaspoon of the reserved seasoning and putin a separate pan to fry the. prawns until cooked;repeat with the cabbage, then with the beans. Mixinto the cooked yam bean and add sugar and salt.Leave to cool.

To serve, put all prepared ingredients on thetable. Place a popiah skin on a flat surface andspread with a little sweet black sauce, garlic pasteand chilli paste. Place one lettuce leaf on top, puton a spoonful of the cooked filling, a few prawns,some cabbage, beans, beansprouts, peanuts andshallots. Fold in the sides, roll up and serve immediately.

Helpful hints: Popiah wrappers are similar to thefresh wrappers used for Filipino lumpia. If neitherare available, use egg roll wrappers.

46 SNACKS

CURRY PUFFS

A perennial favourite originally created by Indiancooks and enjoyed by every Malaysian. <i).

Filling:5 tablespoons oil1 medium red or brown onion, finely chopped1%teaspoons kunna powder or chicken curry

powder2 teaspoons meat or chicken curry powder1 teaspoon chilli powder%teaspoon turmeric powder200 gm (7% oz) cooked chicken, finely diced2 large potatoes, boiled and finely diced11/2 teaspoons sugar.%teaspoon black pepper%teaspoon salt

Pastry:500 g (1 lb) plain flour150 g (5 oz) butter or Plantamargarine200 ml (just over %cup) water%teaspoon salt

Make the filling first. Heat oil and fry the oniongently until golden brown. Add the curry powders,chilli, tunneric and fry gently. Add the chicken,potatoes, sugar, pepper and salt and cook for 5 minutes. Mix well and leave aside to cool.

To make pastry, mix flour with margarine,water and salt and knead well. Let it rest for 12

hour. Cut the dough into circles 8 cm (3 in) indiameter. Take a tablespoon of filling and place incentre. Fold pastry over to make a half circle andcrimp at edges. Deep fry in hot oil until golden.

Hclpfiil hints: Not all margarines are suitable forpastry, owing to their high moisture content. TheMalaysian brand, Planta, is recommended; Criscois a suitable substitute.

48 SNACKS

TOP HATSKuih Pie Tee

Delightfully crisp little cases with a vegetable. filling are a Nonya teatime treat. With a rim on thecases, they resemble "top hats". f&) <t (!)

Top Hat Cases:I mould (see photograph opposite)100 g (31/2 0z) plain flour%teaspoon rice flourI egg, beatenI cup (8 fl oz) watera pinch of saltoil for deep frying

Top Hat Filling:I tablespoon oil3 cloves garlic, finely chopped90 g (3 oz) peeled prawns, chopped500 g (lIb) yam bean (bengkuang), shredded200 g (7% oz) carrot, shreddedpepper to taste1/2 teaspoon saltI teaspoon sugar

Garnish:shredded omelette made with I beaten eggfinely chopped spring onionI red chilli, finely sliced

Make the cases first. Put both flours in mixing bowl,add egg, water and salt and mix well. Whisk thebatter until smooth and then put through a sieve.Pour into a glass.

Heat oil in saucepan with the mould in the oil.

Turn down the heat to medium. Dip mould intobatter so that it is thoroughly coated. The mouldmust not be too hot; the batter should not sizzlewhen the mould is placed in. Allow the excessbatter to dip off and plunge the mould into oil.

To make the batter separate from the mouldwhile frying, start jiggling it lightly up and down assoon as it is placed in the oil. The batter should openand slip away from the mould with slight shaking.Let the case cook until light brown. Store in airtightcontainer.

To make the filling, heat the oil in a saucepanand fry the garlic and prawn until lightly brown. Addthe yam bean and carrot and season with thepepper, salt and sugar. Cook for 5 minutes.

To serve, put a little ofthe filling in top hat cases..Garnish and serve with chilli sauce.

Helpful hints: It may take a few tries to successfullycreate the "top hat" cases. It is essential that the oilis the right temperature and that the mould issufficiently hot so that when it is dipped into theglass ofbatter, the batter clings to the mould untilthe batter-covered mould is put back into the hotoil. Ifyou cannot make the batter form a rim to the"top hat", don't worry; many cooks just makestraight-sided cases which are easier to achieve.

50 SNACKS

SUPERIOR WON TON SOUP

Stuffed ravioli-like dumplings or won ton in SOl,lpare found in Chinese restaurants throughout theworld, but this version is definitely a cut above,thanks to the excellent stock made with driedscallops, chicken and anchovies. @j) ® ®

200 g (7% oz) prawns, peeled and deveined15 won ton skins11/2 litres (6 cups) basic stock (see below)100 g (3% oz) snow peas, blanched for a few

seconds6 dried black mushroom, soaked, boiled until

soft, thinly slicedsalt and pepper

Basic Stock:3 dried scallops300 g (10 oz) boneless chicken1/2 cup very fine dried Chinese anchovies3 litres (12 cups) water2 cloves garlic, smashed1 cm (% in) ginger, sliced1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns200 g (7% oz) carrot300 g (10 oz) celery

Fr.1ling:200 g (7% oz) prawns, peeled150 g (5 oz) boneless chicken or pork100 g (31/2 oz) water chestnuts, peeled50 g (1%oz) dried 'black fungus or 2 dried

mushrooms, soaked

1 tablespoon oyster sauce1/2 teaspoon salta dash of sesame oil2 tablespoons sugara dash of Chinese wine1 egg, beaten2 tablespoons contflour1 tablespoon light soy sauce

Prepare the stock first by putting all the ingredientsin a pot and bringing to the boil. Remove the scumfrom the surface, lower heat and simmer coveredfor 2 hours. Strain thoroughly before using.

To make the filling, chop the prawns, chkken,water chestnuts and fungus together with a cleaveruntil fine. Mix in all gther filling ingredients.

Put 1 small spoonful of the filling in the centreofa won ton wrapper and squeeze the edges togetherin the centre. Repeat until all the filling is used.

Bring the cooked stock to the boil, add the wonton and simmer for 3-5 minutes or until they riseto the top. Add the snow peas, mushrooms, salt andpepper and serve immediately.

Helpful hints.' If you are unable to find dried scallops (which are very expensive), 500 g (lIb) ofporkbones can substituted to make the stock.

:,.'<

52 SOUPS

SOP KAMBINGIndian Mutton Soup

Opposite:(anti-clockwisefrom top) Sop

Kambing,.. Rasamam;/, pappadum.

Recipe forRasam ispnpage56.

Hawkers throughout Malaysia offer Sop Kambing,a rich, meaty stew, which is popular as a substantial breakfast or late-night supper. Serve with RotiCanai or chunks of crusty French bread. @) @)

250 g (8 oz) shallots10 cloves garlic3 cm (11/4 in) ginger1 cup ghee or oil750 g (1%Ib) lamb chops6 large onions, sliced150 g (5 oz) kurma spice powder or chicken

curry powder5 cm (2 in) cinnamon stick1 cardamom pod2 star anise3litres (12 cups) water or lamb stock1 cup green peas1 large carrot, cubed3 sprigs fresh coriander6 spring onions, roughly chopped6 Chinese celery leaves, roughy chopped2 tablespoons salt%teaspoon white pepper

Garnish:fried shallotsfresh coriander leaves

Blend the shallots, garlic and ginger to a paste.Remove the meat from the bones and cut meat intosmall cubes. Roast the bones in a hot oven untilbrown.

Heat ghee and fry the sliced onions until golden,then add ground ingredients and fry for about 30seconds before adding spice powder, turmeric,cinnamon, cardamom and star anise. Stir fry for Iminute then add water, roasted bones, cubed lamb,peas, carrot, fresh coriander, spring onions andcelery leaves. Simmer uncovered until the lamb iscooked then add salt, sugar and pepper to taste.

Garnish with fried shallots and sprigs of coriander when serving.

Helpful hints: Roasting the bones, while notessential, gives a richer flavour to the soup.

54 SOUPS

RASAM & FRIED KWAY TEOWSpicy Crab Gaw Soup &. Fried Rice-Flour Noodles

Opposite:Fried KwayTeow.Photo ofRasam is

on page 55.

RASAM

A version ofSouthern Indian Rasam, believed to bean aid to digestion. 00

2 whole crabs3 shallots, coarsely pounded5 cloves garlic, skin left on, roughly smashed2.5 em (1 in) ginger, roughly smashed3 tablespoons oll5 dried chillies, torn in half%teaspoon turmeric powder2 teaspoons black peppercorns, finely ground1 tablespoon coriander, finely ground11/2 teaspoons fennel, finely ground1%teaspoons cumin, finely ground1 teaspoon fenugreek, finely ground2 sprigs curry leaves100 g (3% oz) tamarind pulp1 litre (4 cups) water1%teaspoons salt2 large ripe tomatoes, halved

Remove the legs and claws from the crabs and keepthe body aside for another dish.

Pound or blend the shallots, garlic and ginger.Heat oil and fry pounded mixture together withchillies for 2 minutes. Add turmeric, ground spicesand curry leaves. Fry for another minute.

Soak the tamarind in the water for 10 minutes.Squeeze and strain to obtain juice. Addjuice to thepot and bring to boil. Add the· crab claws and salt

and squeeze in the pulp from the tomatoes. Addsqueezed skin of the tomato and simmer for 5minutes. Serve with rice and vegetable dishes.

FRIED KWA Y TEOW

A great hawker or foodstall favourite using freshrice-flour noodles. 00

%cup oll2 cloves garlic, finely chopped1 whole chicken breast, shredded6-8 prawns, peeled50 g cackles (see hum) or mussels300 g (10 oz) dried chillies, soaked and

blended to a paste500 g (1 lb) flat rice-flour noodles (kway teow)%cup chopped garlic chives200 g (7% oz) beansproutsa pinch of salt2 tablespoons black soy sauce4 tablespoons light soy sauce2 eggs, beaten

Heat the oil in the wok. Saute the garlic for a fewseconds then add chicken breast, prawns andcockles. Stir for a few moments then add 5 tablespoons of the chilli paste. Cook for 5 minutes. Addnoodles, chives, beansprouts and egg, season withsalt and soy sauces and stir fry until the noodles arethoroughly heated. Serve immediately.

56 SOUPS/NOODLES

YEN'S BROWN NOODLES

This version of a Cantonese-style dish, deep-friedcoils of crisp, light brown noodles bathed in adelicate but delicious sauce, is named after the chefwho created it. Packets of yee mien noodles shouldbe available in any Chinese provision shop.•

150 g (5 oz) dry brown noodles (yee mien)150 g (5 oz) mustard greens or spinachoil for frying1 clove garlic, finely chopped150 g (5 oz) peeled prawns150 g (5 oz) chicken or pork, shredded3 cups water2 tablespoons oyster sauce2 tablespoons light soy sauce1/2 teaspoon black soy sauce1/2 teaspoon sesame oil%teaspoon white pepper1 heaped tablespoon cornflour, blended in

3 tablespoons water2 eggs, lightly beaten

Put the noodles in a colander, sprinkle with a littlecold water and leave aside to soften.

Discard hard ends of the vegetable and cut in 4

cm (l%in) lengths. Heat about 5 cm (2 in) oil in awok and fry the noodles, a handful at a time,turning over until crisp and golden (about 1 minute). Drain and set aside. Repeat with remainingnoodles. Arrange noodles in a large wide bowl OFdeep serving platter.

Leave about 1 tablespoon of oil in the wok and

fry the garlic for a few seconds, then add prawnsand chicken or pork. Stir fry until they are cooked,then add water and all seasonings. Bring to the boil,add vegetables and simmer for a minute. Addthe cornflour mixture and cook, stirring, untilthe sauce thickens and clears. Pour in the beatenegg, stir and pour over the noodles and serveimmediately.

Helpful hints: The noodles should have a firmalthough not crisp and crunchy texture aftercooking. The distinctive flavour of this type ofnoodIe makes this simple-sounding dish well worthsampling.

58 NOODLES

MEE SIAMSpicy Noodles

This dish, prepared by Nonya and Malay cooks, isan interpretation of Thai-style noodles. Fine riceflour noodles are served in a spicy gravy penneatedwith the fragrance of salted soya beans andtamarind. @) @)~

2 cups oil4 tablespoons salted soya beans, crushed1 cup tamarind pulp, soaked in 1 cup water

for juice5 cups water6 tablespoons sugar2 teaspoons salt%teaspoon black soy sauce2 tablespoons light soy sauce

Spice Paste:25-30 large dried red chillies, cut and soaked40 shallots

. 12 candlenuts8 cloves garlic

For Serving:500 g (1 lb) rice vermicelli, soaked in cold

water until soft500 g (1 lb) beansprouts, tails removed500 g (1 lb) prawns, peeled and fried in a

little oil3 eggs, beaten, cooked in thin omelettes and

shredded1 large or 2 small cucumbers, peeled and

cut in matchsticks150 g (5 oz) garlic chives, cut in 2.5 cm

(1 in) lengths

3 hard beancurd, deep-fried and slivered

Garnish:3 tablespoons fried shallots2 fresh red chillies, sliced6 small limes or lemon wedges

Set aside 1 cup of oil. Chop spice paste ingredientsfinely then blend. Keep half the blended ingredientsaside for frying the noodles.

Put 1 cup of oil in a wok and fry the blendedpaste over low heat for 10 minutes. Add the saltedsoya beans, fry for a few seconds then add thetamarind juice, 5 cups water, sugar, salt and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste and add more sugar ifliked. Remove from heat.

Heat the second cup of oil and fry the reservedblended ingredients over low heat for 10 minutes.Add 1 teaspoon salt, both lots ofsoy sauce, drainednoodles and beansprouts. Stir thoroughly, sprinklewith a little water and remove from heat.

To serve the Mee Siam, divide the noodle mixture between 6 large bowls. Top with the prawns,omelette, beancurd, cucumbers and chives. Pourover the gravy and garnish each portion with somefried shallots, sliced chilli and a small lime.

Helpful hints. To reduce the heat of the gravy,discard the seeds that fall to the bottom of the bowlwhen you soak the chillies.

60 NOODLES

'.

INDIAN MEE GORENGIndian Fried Noodles

Although noodles were brought to Malaysia by theChinese, all other ethnic groups have enthusiastically adapted them to suit their tastes. This versionis a dish you certainly couldn't find in India. ~~

10 dried chillies; soaked in hot waterI;z cup oil1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste3 cloves garlic, finely chopped150 g (5 oz) prawns, peeled and deveined150 g (5 oz) boneless chicken, shredded400 g (13 oz) fresh yellow noodles100 g (3I;z oz) mustard greens100 g (3I;z oz) beansprouts2 hard beancurd, deep fried and sliced3 tablespoons light soy sauce1 teaspoon salt1 red chilli, sliced1 green chilli, slicedsprig of coriander leaves, roughly choppedsprig of Chinese celery leaves, roughly

chopped2 spring onions, sliced2 tablespoons fried shallots6 small fresh limes, halved

Blend softened chillies to a paste, adding a little oilifnecessary. Keep aside 2 tablespoons ofoil and heatthe remainder over medium heat, add dried shrimppaste and fry for 1 minute. Add chilli paste, reduceheat to low and cook, stirring from time to time, for30 minutes. Remove from pan.

Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok. Addgarlic, cooked chilli paste, prawns and chicken andfry for 3 minutes. Add noodles and fry over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add mustard greens andbeansprouts. Fry for 2 minutes then add beancurdand stir fry for 3 minutes. Lastly add soy sauce andsalt mixed together. Stir fry for 1 minute.

Garnish with fresh chillies, coriander, celery leaf,spring onions, fried shallots and fresh lime and serveimmediately.

Helpftd hints: Cabbage or spinach can be usedinstead of mustard greens if preferred.

62 NOODLES

LAKSALEMAKNoodles in Spicy Coconut-milk Gravy

This Nonya version of Laksa, a spicy noodle dish,comes from Malacql. Although it takes some timeto prepare, it is well worth the effort. @i) (D

1/2 cup oil6. sprigs polygonum (daun kesum)2 wild ginger buds, finely sliced6 cups water1%cups thick coconut milk1 heaped tablespoon sugarsalt to taste500 g (lib) thin fresh yellow noodles, or dried

noodles, cooked and drained150 g (5 oz) beansprouts, blanched1 chicken breaSt, steamed and shredded100 g (3% oz) peeled prawns, steamed

Spice Paste:8 red chillies10 shallots1 lemon grass2 em (% in) ga1angal0.5 em e/4 in) fresh turmeric%teaspoon dried shrimp paste

Garnish: .

3 sprigs polygonum (daun kesum), sliced1 wild ginger bud, finely sliced1 cucumber, in matchstick shreds3 eggs, beaten, made into thin omelettes and

shredded2 red chillies, sliced2 spring onions, finely sliced

6 tablespoons sambal Belacan (see page 41)6 small round limes or lemon wedges

Chop and blend all the spice paste ingredientsfinely, adding a little of the oil if necessary to keepthe blades turning. Heat remaining oil and gentlyfry the blended ingredients for 10 minutes, stirringfrom time to time. Add the polygonum, ginger budsand water and bring to the boil. Add thick coconutmilk, sugar and salt. Reduce heat and simmer verygently, uncovered, for 10-·15 minutes.

To serve, plunge noodles in boiling water fora few seconds, to heat through. Divide the noodles,chicken, beansprouts and prawns between 6 individual noodle bowls and top with the shreddedpolygonum and ginger bud. Pour gravy on top andadd a little cucumber, omelette, chillies and springonion. Serve with the Sambal Belacan and cut limesin a separate dish.

Helpful hints: The gravy can be prepared in advance, and the garnishing ingredients readied although not sliced to ensure maximum fragrance andfreshness. If fresh noodles are not available, usedried rice vermicelli (meehoon) or any dried Chinesewheat-flour noodles.

64 NOODLES

ASAM LAKSA PENANGSour Penang Noodle Soup

There are two definite groups within Malaysia:those whose favourite is Laksa Lemak, a spicy noodle soup bathed in coconut milk gravy, and thosewho prefer the sour, fragrant Penang version,which has a pronounced fishy flavour. Try both andsee which group you fall into. @j)@j)@j)

600 g (1 1/4 Ib) small Chubb mackerel(ikan kembong)

1.5 litres (6 cups) water5 tablespoons tamarind pulp, soaked and

squeezed for juice2 wild ginger buds, sliced3 sprigs polygonum (daun kesum), sliced%-1 tablespoon sugar, to taste600 g (11/4 Ib) fresh coarse rice noodles (laksa)

Spice Paste:5 shallots2 lemon grass2.5 cm (1 in) fresh turmeric3 dried red chillies, soaked in warm water6 fresh red chillies1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

Garnish:1 cucumber, peeled and shredded6 sprigs polygonum (daun kesum), slicedfew sprigs mint, torn3 large red onions, sliced3 red chillies, sliced%fresh pineapple, cut in shredssmall bowl of black prawn paste (hay koh),

diluted in a little warm water

Simmer the cleaned whole fish in water untilcooked. Remove fish, cool, and remove the fleshfrom the bones. Break up the flesh. Strain the stockcarefully and return to a large pan with the fish,tamarind juice, ginger bud, polygonum and sugar.

Blend the spice paste ingredients finely and addto the fish stock. Simmer for 20-30 minutes.

Prepare all garnish ingredients. Blanch thenoodles in boiling water, drain and divide between6 bowls. Pour over the fish stock and garnish the topof each bowl. Allow diners to add the black prawnpaste themselves, as the taste is rather pungent.

Helpful hints: If Chubb mackerel is not available,choose another well-flavoured fish to ensure thesoup has its characteristic fishy taste.

66 NOODLES

NASI KERABURice with Fresh Herbs

The wonderfully fragrant herbs normally found ina kitchen garden are combined with rice to makethis popular Kelantan dish, traditionally served withAyam Percik, either coconut or beef Serundingand a chilli sambal. (Rice with lots of fresh herbs isknown as Nasi Ulam in other northern states ofPeninsular Malaysia.) As many ofthese herbs do nothave a common English name and are not availableoutside Malaysia, suggested substitutes are givenbelow. @)@)

1 cup rice1I;z cups water2 stalks of lemon grass, smashed2 em C% in) galangal, smashed2 screwpine leaves2 fragrant lime leaves2 tablespoons thick coconut milkI;z teaspoon salt

Accompaniments:. 2 daun nuu1uk

1 cekur Czedoary) leaf2 fragrant lime leaves1 sprig daun kemangi (basil)-I daun kunyit (turmeric leaf)1 sprig daun kesum (polygonum)1 stalk daun renganga3 daun salam1 sprig daun selum

1 lemon grass1 shallot1 bunga kantan (wild ginger bud)1 cucumber

Wash the rice well and place in the rice cooker orpan together with the water, lemon grass, galangal,screwpine leaf, fragrant lime leaf, coconut milk andsalt. Bring to boil and cook, stirring once or twice.

Slice all the accompaniment ingredients veryfinely and arrange on a large platter. Pile thecooked rice in the centre and allow each diner tamix through the herbs according to taste. serve withCoconut Serunding (page 112) and Ayam Percik(page 96).

Helpfiil hints: Alternative herbs and accompaniments include raw green beans, any type of basil,pennywort ar kottu kala (known in Malaysia as daunpegaga), coriander leaf, nasturtium leaf, mint,watercress, celery leaves, cabbage or lettuce etc. Insome Malaysian markets, bundles of mixed herbsare sold under the name ulam, specially for use inthis dish.

68 MAIN MEAL DISHES

NASI BOKHARISpicy Rice with Chicken

Arab and Indian influences are evident in thisrichly flavoured rice, similar to a pilau or biryani.It is particularly popular in the northeastern states

.of Peninsular Malaysia. ® ® 0

%chicken, cut into serving pieces2 tablespoons tomato paste%cup evaporated miIk1 tablespoon liriJ.e juice3 tablespoons fried shallotssalt to taste3 tablespoons ghee2 cups long grain rice (preferably Basmati)

Spice Paste for Marinade.·3. tablespoons coriander2 tablespoons fennel1 tablespoon cumin2 cm (% in) cinnamon stick2 cloves2 cardamom pods, husk discarded2 star anise1 teaspoon black peppercorns1 teaspoon turmeric powder1 teaspoon white poppy seeds (optional)5 shallots2 cloves garlic2 cm (% in) ginger6 almonds%cup water

Spice Paste for Rice:2 shallots2 cloves garlic2.5 cm (1 in)ginger1 tablespoon ghee2 cm (% in) cinnamon stick1 clove1 star anise1 cardamom pod2 tablespoons evaporated milk

Garnish:%cup raisins3 tablespoons fried shallots1 tablespoon roasted flaked almonds

Grind dry spices first, then grind remainingmarinade spice paste ingredients and combine.Marinate chicken with the spices, tomato paste,milk, shallots and salt and keep overnight.

Heat ghee in a saucepan and fry chicken overlow heat, adding water if it threatens to burn. Sautefor 1/2 hour or until the chicken is cooked. Separatethe chicken from the gravy and set chicken aside.

To cook the rice, puree the shallots, garlic,ginger and %cup water. Saute in ghee and addthe remaining spices. Cook until brown with thechicken gravy and milk, stirring occasionally. Whenthe rice is dried and cooked, add raisins, friedshallots, almonds and chicken and stir well.

70 MAIN MEAL DISHES

ROTI JALA AND SAMBAL UDANGLacy Pancakes and Prawn Sambal

ROTIJALA

These lovely lacy pancakes are an ideal accompaniment to any dish with lots of rich gravy and areparticularly popular during the Muslim fastingmonth and on special occasions. ® ®

500 g (1 Ib) plain Hour2 cups fresh milk2 eggs1 teaspoon salt%teaspoon turmeric powder1 tablespoon oil1 tablespoon ghee or butter

Sift the flour into a large bowl. Beat the milk andeggs together and mix with the flour, salt andturmeric. Stir until the batter becomes smooth thenput through a sieve. Add oil and set aside.

Heat a non-stick pan and brush surface withghee or butter. Pour a ladleful ofbatter into a specialRoti Jala funnel or substitute (see below) andmake quick circular movements over the pan toform a lacy pattern. When the pancake is cooked,remove and fold into a triangular shape. Repeat themethod until all the batter is finished.

Helpfiil hints: The Roti Jala funnel is a cup withfour spouts; an alternative is a plastic sauce dispenser with a reasonably wide hole.

PRAWN SAMBAL

This piquant Malay prawn dish is a firm favouritethroughout the country. Take care not to overcookthe prawns or they will become tough. ® @

%cup oil2 tablespoons brown sugar1 teaspoon salt3 tablespoons thick coconut milk4 tablespoons lime juice500 g (lIb) medium-sized prawns, peeled and

deveined

Spice Paste:10 red chillies3 medium red onions2.5 cm (1 in) galangal10 cloves garlic3 candlenuts

Chop all the spice paste ingredients then blend untilfine, adding a little of the oil if necessary to keepthe blades turning.

Heat oil in a saucepan and fry the blendedingredients fOr'about 10 minutes until fragrant. Addbrown sugar, salt and coconut milk and bring to theboil. Add lime juice and prawns and simmer for 5minutes or until the prawns are cooked.

72 MAIN MEAL DISHES

SAMBAL TERONG & NASI KEMULIAubergine with Basil &. Nonya Wedding Rice

Opposite:Sambal Terong~eft) and NasiKemuli (right)

SAMBAL TERONG

This Nonya recipe, using the small Asian aubergines, adds basil for extra flavour. (i

500 g (lIb) small aubergines2 cups oil%cup basil sprigssalt aud sugar to taste

Spice Paste:3 red chillies5 shallots4 cloves garlic1 teaspoon dried prawns, soaked1 tablespoon s~ted soya beau paste

Wash the aubergines but do not peel. Halve lengthwise and cut into 4 cm (11'2 in) pieces. Chop andblend the spice paste ingredients finely and setaside.

Reserve 4 tablespoons oil and heat the rest in awok. When the oil is very hot, deep fry the aubergine pieces until brown. Drain and set aside. Drainout the oil, wipe the wok and add the reserved oil.Gently fry the blended ingredients for 5 minutes,then add fried aubergines,basil, salt and sugar.Cook, stirring frequently, for 2-3 minutes, thenserve.

NASI KEMULI

Simple but tasty, Nasi Kemuli is a must at Nonyaweddings. (i

1 cup coriauder seeds5 cm (2 in) cinnamon stick2 whole star anise2 cloves1 cardamom pod4 cups water1 tablespoon ghee11/Z cups long-grain rice, washed aud drained1 teaspoon dark soy sauce1 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons raisins

Spice Paste:3 shallots1 cm (% in) ginger2 cloves garlic

Combine all the wholes spices with water and simmer uncovered until the liquid is reduced to 2 cups.

Pound or blend the spice paste then gently fryin the ghee. Remove from the heat and add rice,soy sauce and salt. Mix well and add the 2 cups ofliqUid together with all the whole spices. Stir well,cover and cook until the rice is done. Add the raisinsjust before serving.

74 MAIN MEAL DISHES

ROTI CANAlFlaky Fried Indian Bread

A really good Roti Canai is feather-light, crisp, nongreasy and, some would say, the Indian community's greatest culinary contribution to Malaysia.Roti CanaLis a much lighter, flakier version of anIndian bread known as Roti Paratha. ~@

1 kg (2 Ib) plain flour2 eggs, beaten1 teaspoon salt2·3 tablespoons sugar100 g (31/2 oz) butter or ghee, melted2 cups water2 tablespoons condensed milkI/Z cup ghee or oil for frying

Sift flour into a mixing bowl, add eggs, salt, sugarand melted butter. Combine water with the condensed milk and add to the mixture. Mix well to makea soft dough. Roll dough into a ball and cover witha damp cloth. Leave to rest in a warm place for 30minutes.

Divide dough into 12 small balls. Coat in ghee oroil, cover and leave to rest for a minimum 20 minutes or up to 4 hours.

Heat an iron griddle or heavy pan, and coat withoil. flatten dough balls and stretch out as far aspossible. Fold edges inward, continue until you havea round shape IS cm (6 in) in diameter. This isrequired to give the bread a layered texture. Fry therati individually until crisp and golden, adding moreghee or oil as necessary.

Helpfiil hints: It takes great skill to swing out thedough in circles to stretch it paper thin, as the "Rotiman" does with a theatrical flOUrish. Most homecooks use the bottom of a very large cooking panand with oiled hands, slowly stretch and push thedough out.

76 MAIN MEAL DISHES

NONYA PRAWN SALAD

Contrasting flavours and textures bring excitementto this combination of vegetables, prawns, sweetsauce, herbs and crunchy prawn crackers. It makesa delicious starter to any meal. (i~

1 long-leaf 9r Romaine lettuce, torn in longshreds

2 sinall carrots, cut in matchsticks2 sinall white radishes, cut in matchsticks2 sinall cucuInbers, halved lengthwise, seeded

and sliced1 starfruit, halved lengthwise and sliced

(optional)3 tomatoes, cut in wedges500 g (lIb) prawns, steatned and peeled

Dressing:15 red chillies6-8 cloves garlic1 cup bottled Chinese plum sauce1 cup sweet red sauce or 1 cup light palm

sugar syrup1/2 cup lime juice2 tablespoons light soy sauce1 tablespoon 8Csatne oil%cup peanuts, fried, skins removed and coarsely

ground

Garnish:deep-fried prawn crackersfresh coriander leavesfried shallots

Put chillies and garlic in blender and grind, addinga little of the plum sauce to keep blades turning.When finely ground, add rest ofdressing ingredientsexcept peanuts, blend just to combine and set aside.Add the peanuts only just before serving.

Prepare all remaining ingredients. Divide between 6 plates, starting with the lettuce and finishing with the prawns. Pour on the dressing and topwith garnish.

Helpful hints: Different brands of plum sauce andsweet red Chinese sauce vary in their sugar content,so take care to adjust the dressing to your taste. Ifusing palm sugar syrup, boil 200 g (71,12 oz) palmsugar with 1liz cups water until dissolved.

78 MAIN MEAL DISHES

.,

NANAS LEMAK & IKAN ASAM PEDASPineapple and Prawn Curry &. Hot Sour Fish Curry

Opposite.Nanas Lernak~eft) and Ikan

AsamPedas(right) shown here

• with Dned.CucumBerA~r.

Recipe for DriedCucumber Acar is

·onpage42.

NANASLEMAK

Pineapples are a perfect partner to fish and prawns,as this piquant curry proves. @ (1)

%fresh just-ripe pineapple2 cups water4 tablespoons oil200 g (7% oz) medium sized prawns, peeled

and deveined1%cups thick coconut milksalt to taste

Spice Paste:6 red chillies8 shallots2 lemon grass%teaspoon dried shrimp pasteI/Z teaspoon turmeric powder2 cloves garlic

Peel the pineapple, remove the eyes and cutlengthwise into quarters. Remove core, wash andcut into small triangular pieces.

Blend spice paste ingredients with Yz cup water.Heat oil in a saucepan and fry the blended ingredients for 5 minutes. Add pineapple, stir fry foranother 5 minutes then add remaining I Yz cupswater. When pineapple is soft, add the prawns, coconut milk and salt. Stir well, lower heat and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes.

IKAN ASAM PEDAS

Fragrant and spicy, this curry is enriched by a touchof coconut milk @)~

%cup oil1 cm (%in) galangal, smashed2 slices asam gelugor, or 1 heaped tablespoon

tamarind pulp, soaked in water for juice21/Z cups water6 thick fish fillets or cutlets4 sprigs polgonum (daun kesum), choppedsalt to taste1 teaspoon sugar3 tabl~poons thick coconut milk

Spice Paste:15 dried chillies, soaked in hot water2 candlenuts4 cloves garlic10 shallots%teaspoon turmeric powder1 cup water

Chop and blend spice paste ingredients finely. Heatoil in a saucepan then fry the galangal and blendedingredients for 5 minutes. Add the asam gelugor ortamarind pulp. Add l/Z cup of water and cook foranother 5 minutes. Add the rest of the water andbring to boil. Add the fish, polygonum, salt and sugarand coconut milk and simmer, uncovered, foranother 5 minutes.

80 MAIN MEAL DISHES

SPICY PRAWNS IN A SARONG

Opposite:Spicy Prawns in a

Sarong shownhere with Nasi

Bokhari. Recipe[or Nasi Bokhari

is on page 70,

A "sarong" of fragrant screwpine or banana leafadds both a decorative touch and a subtle fragranceto the prawns; it can, however, be omitted if notavailable. @ ®

500 g (1 Ib) large prawns, shelled and deveinedsalt and pepper to taste1 tablespoon lime juice%cup thick coconut milk1 tablespoon palm sugar syruppandan leaves or 4 cm (1%in) wide strips of

banana leaf

Spice Paste:8 shallots5 cloves garlic2 candlenuts2 em (% in) galangal6 red chillies1 teaspooon turmeric powder1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

Season the prawns with salt, pepper and lime juice.Chop and ~lend the spice paste ingredients untilfine. Combine the blended ingredients, coconutmilk, palm sugar syrup and prawns. Marinate for4-6 hours.

Wrap the centre ofeach prawn with a screwpineleaf or strip ofbanana leaf and secure with a toothpick. Barbecue over very hot charcoal or cook undera grill for about 2-3 minutes on each side, takingcare not to overcook.

Helpful hints: Make palm sugar syrup by simmering 1/2 tablespoon chopped palm sugar in 2 tablespoons water until liquid is reduced by half.

82 MAIN MEAL DISHES

BUTTER PRAWNS & BLACK PEPPER CRAB

Opposite:Butter Prawns

(top left) andBlack PepperCrab (bottom

right).

BUTTER PRAWNS

A relatively recent Malaysian creation, this combinestraditionally Malay, Chinese, Indian and Westerningredients. <I <I

600 g (l l /4 Ib) large prawnsoil for deep frying2-3 tablespoons butter15 bird's-eye chillies, roughly chopped10-15 sprigs curry leaves2 cloves garlic, finely chopped1/2 teaspoon salt2 tablespoonS sugar1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce%teaspoon Chinese wine%grated coconut, dry fried until golden

Remove heads from the prawns but leave onshells. Slit down the back to remove intestinal tract,trim feelers and legs and dry prawns thoroughly.Heat the oil and deep fry the prawns. Drain andreserve.

Melt the butter, add chillies, curry leaves, garlicand salt and fry for 2 minutes. Add prawns, sugar,soy sauce, wine and grated coconut. Cook over highheat for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently. Serve immediately.

Helpful hints: Do not use frozen prawns as thetexture after thawing is not suitable for this recipe.

BLACK PEPPER CRAB

This is a real Malaysian dish, starting with mudcrabs and Chinese seasonings, addtng Indian blackpepper and curry leaves, enriching the flavour withbutter and then tossing in Malay bird's-eye chilliesfor a knock-out result. <I <I

3 fresh mud crabs (about 500 glllb each)oil for deep frying2 tablespoons butter2 shallots, thinly sliced2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped1 tablespoon salted soya beans, mashed2 tablespoons dried prawns, roasted and

ground2 tablespoons black pepper, ground coarsely%cup curry leaves10 red or green bird's-eye chillies, chopped2 tablespoons black soy sauce3 tablespoons sugar2 tablespoons oyster sauce

Clean the crabs and cut in half, discarding thespongy "dead man's fingers". Smash the claws witha cleaver to allow the seasonings in. Deep fry thecrabs until half cooked, drain and set aside.

Heat a wok, melt butter and put in shallots, garlic, salted soya beans, dried prawns, black pepper,curry leaves and chillies. Saute until fragrant thenadd crab and the remaining ingredients. Cook for5-10 minutes until the crab is done.

84 MAIN MEAL DISHES

INDIAN FISH CURRY

Opposite.·IndianPish Curry

shown here withghee rice (top left).

Many Indian fish curries include aubergines andokra, vegetables which seem to have a particularaffinity with spices and fish. ~ (:!)

%cup oill/Z teaspoon fenugreek seeds3 pieces of cinnamon stick, each

4 cm (% in) long·5 cardamom pods, bruised7 dried chillies, left wholed9 shallots, sliced4 large onions sliced8 cloves garlic, sliced2.5 cm (1 in) ginger, sliced10 tablespoons fish curry powder1 tablespoon chilli powder1%teaspoons turmeric powder150 g (5 oz) tamarind pulp6 cups water2 small aubergines, halved lengthwise then

cut in 3 and deep fried7 small okra (ladies' fingers), stalks and tips

discarded1 large tomato, cut into 6 wedges2 sprigs curry leavesoil for frying6 fillets of fish (250 g/8 oz each), seasoned

with salt and turmeric powder3 tablespoons sugar3 teaspoons salt

Heat oil in a saucepan, and fry fenugreek, cinnamonand cardamom for 2 minutes. Add dried chillies,shallots, onions, garlic and ginger and fry for about10 minutes until golden brown and fragrant. Addthe curry, chilli and turmeric powders andcontinue to stir fry for about :3 minutes, until the oilseparates from the mixture.

Add 1 cup of the water to the tamarind, squeezeand strain to obtain the juice. Stir into the saucepanand add the remaining water. Bring to the boil andadd the deep-fried aubergines, okra, tomato and thecurry leaves. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10minutes.

Heat oil and quickly deep fry the fish until golden.Drain then add to the curry and simmer for 5 minutes. Add sugar and salt and serve immediately.

Helpful hints: The curry sauce and vegetables canbe cooked in advance, and the fish fried and setaside. Combine the two and simmer just beforeserving.

86 ·MAIN MEAL DISHES

SALTED FISH AND PINEAPPLE CURRY

Salted fish is popular in Malaysia, and not just as astandby for times when fresh fish may be unavailable owing to monsoon storms. This Eurasian curryuses good quality dried fish cut in 1 cm (12 in) thickslices. ~@)

1 just-ripe pineapple125 g (4 oz) salted fish, cut in large cubes1/4 cup oil1/2 cup water1%cups thick coconut milk.salt to taste

Spice Paste:-6 shallots3 red chillies2.5 em (1 in) fresh turmeric2.5 cm (1 in) galangal2 lemon grass%teaspoon dried shrimp paste1/2 teaspoon salt

Peel the pineapple, clean and quarter, remove cores,wash and cut into triangular pieces. Blend half thepineapple with about %cup water to make a pulpand keep aside.

Soak the fish in water for about 10 minutes, thendrain and dry well.

Chop spice paste ingredients then blend untilfine. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the blendedspice paste and stir fry gently for 5 minutes. Addpineapple cubes and stir fry until well coated withspices. Put in salted fish, the pineapple pulp, waterand coconut milk. Reduce heat and simmer gentlyfor about 10-15 minutes until pineapple is tender.Add salt to taste.

Helpful hints: Blending half the pineapple gives alovely sweet flavour to the curry gravy. You cansubstitute prawns for the salted fish.

88 MAIN MEAL DISHES

\

BORNEO FISH & SABAH VEGETABLE

Opposite.Borneo Fish ~eft)

and SabahVegetable (right).

BORNEO MARINATED FISH

Spanking fresh fish marinated with lemon juice andspiced up with lashings of ginger, shallots andchillies is a favourite among Sarawak's Melanaupeople, who call their version Umai, and Sabah'sKadazans. who call it Hinava. @j) @j)

500 g (lIb) very fresh white fish(Spanish mackerel preferred)

%cup freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice2-3 red chillies1 teaspoon salt6-8 shallots, thiriIy sliced5 cm (2 in) ginger, very fin:eIy shredded2 sprigs fresh coriander leaves, roughly

Chopped;lsprigs Chinese celery, roughly chopped

Remove all skin and bones fromthe fish and cut itin thin slices. Keep aside 2 tablespoons oflime juicethen soak the fish in the remaining juice for at least30 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the fishturns white. Drain and discard lime juice.

While the fish is marinating, pound the chillieswith salt until fine. When fish is ready, mix it with.the chillies, shallots, ginger, fresh herbs and reservedlime juice. Taste and add more salt if desired. Serveimmediately as part of a rice-based meal.

SABAH VEGETABLE

Cekuk manis (Sauropus a/bieans), a shrub with edible leaves, grows wild throughout Southeast Asia.A vegetable grower in Lahad Datu, Sabah, discovered a method to make it grow quickly so that thestems are edible, earning it the name Sabah vegetable or even Sabah asparagus. Any leafY greenvegetable can be cooked in this way. @j)

250 g (% Ib) Sabah vegetable or leafy greens%teaspoon dried shrimp paste2 red chillies2 shallots1 clove garlic1 tablespoon oilsalt to taste

Pinch off any tough stems at the the end of theSabah vegetable and cut in 5 cm (2 in) lengths.Alternatively, wash, dry and coarsely chop leafYgreens such as water convolvulus (kangkung) orspinach.

Pound or blend shrimp paste, chopped chillies,sliced shallots and garlic until coarse. Heat oil in awok and fry the pounded mixture for 2-3 minutes,then add vegetables and stir fry quickly until justcooked. Add salt to taste and serve.

90 MAIN MEAL DISHES

,PORTUGUESE BAKED FISH

Despite the name, there's nothing Iberian about thiswell known fish creation from Malacca's PortugueseSettlement, which blends Malay spices and herbswith Chinese soy sauce for a unique taste.••

2' teaspoons chilli powder%cup oil5 fragrant lime leaves, very finely sliced1 teaspoon sesame oil%teaspoon soy sauce1/2 teaspoon salt1/4 teaspoon sugarbanana leafaluminium foil1 whole fish, weighing about 750 g (1 I;z lb) or

6 white fish fillets

Spice Paste:3 onions6 red chillies1 scant teaspoon dried shrimp paste1 em e/2 in) galangal2 lemon grass5 candlenuts1 cup water

Chop spice paste ingredients then blend finelywith the water. Mix in the chilli powder and limeleaves, then fry gently in the oil for about 5 minutes. Combine with the sesame oil, soy sauce," saltand sugar. Mix well and leave to cool.

Cut a large rectangle of banana leaf and brushwith oil. If using a whole fish, remove scales, gillsand stomach. Cut down the underneath side of thefish from the tail to head and flatten fish with yourhand. Slash down either side of the backbone fromhead to tail, to release the fish flesh from the bonesand allow the spice paste to penetrate. Rub thecooked spice paste all over the fish, pushing it wellinto the slits. ifusing fish fillets, coat generously oneither side with the paste.

Fold the fish in a package in banana leaf andwrap again in foil to secure it. If using fillets, wrapeach individually and fasten with a toothpick.Bake, grill or barbecue until cooked.

Helpful hints: The spice paste can be preparedseveral hours in advance, and rubbed into the fishjust before cooking.

92 MAIN MEAL DISHES

AYAM PERCIKSpicy Barbecued Chicken

Opposite:AyamPercik

shown here withNasi Kerabu.

Recipe for NasiKerabu is on

page 68.

It's not surprising that this beautifully seasonedchicken, barbecued over a charcoal fire, is so popular, sold at roadside food stalls and markets all overthe northeastern state of Kelantan. <I<I <I

5 whole chicken legs4 tablespoons cooking oil1 slice asam gelugor or 2 teaspoons tamarind

pulp4 lemon grass, bruised1 cup water1 cup thick coconut milk1%tablespoons sugarsalt to taste

Marinade:1 teaspoon turmeric powder1 teaspoon chilli powder1 tablespoon sugarl/Z teaspoon salt

Spice Paste:3 red chillies6 cloves garlic5 shallots4 candlenuts2 cm C% in) ginger9 dried chillies, soaked in hot water

Mix the marinade, combine with the chicken andset aside for 1 hour.

Chop the spice paste ingredients and blendfinely. Heat oil in a saucepan and fry the spice paste,tamarind and lemon grass for 5 minutes. Add waterand cook another 3 minutes. Put in coconut milk,sugar and salt and simmer over a medium fire for5 minutes.

Barbecue the chicken over a low charcoal fire orunder a grill, basting frequently with the gravy, untilthe chicken is cooked.

96 MAIN MEAL DISHES

SPECIAL FRIED RICE & CHICKEN WINGS

Opposite.Barbecued

Chicken Wings(left) and Special

Fried Rice (right).

SPECIAL FRIED RICE

There must be hundreds ofversions of fried rice inMalaysia. This one, from a Nonya kitchen, gets itsdistinctive flavour from the tiny dried salted fishused by Chinese cooks. Smaller than the usual

.. Malay ikan bilis, they are sometimes called silver fishin English. ~iH~

4 cups cold cooked rice%cup very small dried anchovies%cup oil1 clove garlic, finely chopped150 g (5 oz) chicken breast, diced150 g (5 oz) peeled prawns3 eggs, beaten1 tablespoon light soy saucesalt and pepper to taste%teaspoon sesame oil150 g (5 oz) beansprouts2 spring onions, finely sliced

Break up the rice with a fork and set aside. Heatenough oil to fry the dried anchovies until crisp.Drain and keep aside. Discard oil.

Heat %cup oil and gently fry the garlic for a fewseconds, then add chicken and prawns and stir fryfor 3-4 minutes. Raise heat and add egg, stirringuntil set. Add rice and continue cooking over maximum heat, stirring constantly, until rice is heated

through. Add seasonings, beansprouts and springonions, stir well, add anchovies and stir again. Serveimmediately.

Helpful hints: Rice left overnight is preferred forany fried rice dish, as it is drier and firmer and willresult in a better texture.

BARBECUED CHICKEN WINGS

Although often overlooked upon in the West,chicken wings are highly regarded in Asia for theirslightly gelatinous texture. In Malaysia, you willoften find them being barbecued, especially at roadside stalls in the evenings, in a special rack thatholds a number of wings at a time. @

6 large chicken wingsl/Z teaspoon Chinese wine%teaspoon sesame oil1 tablespoon light soy sauce2 tablespoons black soy sauce2 tablespoons oyster sauqe2 tablespoons honey .salt and pepper,to taste

Combine" all the ingredients and marinate thechicken wings for 6 hours. Cook over a barbecue pitor under a grill, turning until cooked and goldenbrown.

98 MAIN MEAL DISHES

DRY MUTTON CURRY & CHICKEN CURRY

Oppoliite:'Dry Mutton

Curry (top left)and Chicken

Curry (bottom

.right)

DRY MUTTON CURRY

Mutton is popular with both Indians and Malays,who sometimes substitute it with goat. This is atypical Southern Indian curry, with potatoes addinga pleasant soothing flavour and a contrastingtexture. 0 (!)

500 g (lIb) boneless lamb or mutton leg,cubed

5 cups water4 tablespons chilli powder1 teaspoon turmeric powder4 potatoes, peeled and cubed%cup oil25 shallots, sliced1 cm (% in) ginger, sliced7 cloves garlic, sliced2 sprigs curry leaves2 teaspoons salt2 teaspoons sugar

, Bring the lamb, water, chilli and turmeric powderto the boil and simmer for 25 minutes. Add potatoes and continue to cook until they are tender andliquid has reduced by half.

. Ina separate saucepan, heat oil and fry the shallots, ginger and garlic until golden brown. Drain andadd to the lamb with the curry leaves and cook untilthe sauce thickens. Add salt and sugar to taste.

CHICKEN CURRY

The use of cinnamon and star anise gives a robustflavour to this Indian chicken curry. ~@

%cup ghee10-15 dried chillies, soaked and ground to a

paste1 cup meat curry powder5 cinnamon sticks, each about 5 cm (2 in) long3 star anise1 handful curry leaves10 potatoes, peeled and quartered1 chicken, cut into small pieces2% cups coconut milksalt to taste1-2 teaspoons sugar

Spice Paste:15 shallots4 cloves garlic2.5 cm (1 in) ginger

Blend the spice paste ingredients until fine. Melt theghee in a large pot, saute the blended items, thenadd chilli paste and curry powder, mixed with alittle water to mak~ a paste. Continue frying untilfragrant, then add cinnamon, star anise, curry leavesand potato. Put in chicken and saute until thechicken is half cooked. Add coconut milk, seasonwith salt and sugar.

100 MAIN MEAL DISHES

DEVIL CHICKEN CURRY

The large amount of chillies make the fiery nameentirely appropriate for this Eurasian curry, whichis similar to Indian Vindaloo with its blending ofspices and vinegar. The Malaysian touch is givenwith fresh lemon grass, galangal and dried shrimppaste.••

1/4 cup oil2 onions, quartered5 cm (2 in) ginger, shredded5 cloves garlic, sliced2 red c1Iillies, halved lengthwise1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon light soy sauce4 tablespons sugar4 potatoes, peeled and quartered%chicken, cut into serving pieces%cup distilled white vinegar3-4 cups water

Spice Paste:30 shallots30 dried chillies, soaked and de-seeded3 cm (l%in) fresh turmeric2.5 cm (1 in) galangal2 lemon grass1 teaspoon brown mustard seed, soaked in

water 5 minutes

Chop spice paste ingredients and blend with alittle ofthe oil until fine. Set aside.

Heat remaining oil and fry the onions, ginger,garlic and chillies for 2 minutes. Drain off the oil andset mixture aside.

Fry the blended ingredients with 4 tablespoonsoil for 10 minutes, adding the salt and soy sauce.Add sugar, stir well, then put in the potatoes,chicken, vinegar and water. Simmer uncovereduntil chicken is cooked. Taste and adjust seasonings,adding a little more vinegar for a sourer taste ifliked.Add the reserved fried ingredients, stir well andserve with rice.

Helpful hints: Cut the chillies into pieces beforesoaking, and discard the seeds-which will fall to thebottom of the bowl-to help reduce the heat.


NASI AYAMChicken Rice

Opposite:Nasi Ayam

shown here with(clockwise) chilli

sauce, ginger anddark soya sauce.

Chicken served with rice, chilli sauce and cucumber is one of the most popular coffee shop andhawker dishes in Malaysia. The Chinese versionnormally uses chicken simmered in stock, while thisMalay recipe uses roast chicken. @ @ @

Roast Chicken:

liz fresh chicken3 cloves garlic4 shallots5 cm (2 in) ginger3 tablespoons oyster sauce1 tablespoon black soy sauce2 tablespoons light soy sauce1 tablespoon tomato sauce1 tablespoon chilli sauce1 teaspoon chilli powder1 teaspoon salt

Rice:

2 cups rice, washed thoroughly2.5 cm (1 in) ginger3 cloves garlic4 tablespoons butter2 pandan leavespinch salt3 tablespoons fried shallots

Chilli Sauce·

5 red chillies4 cloves garlic2.5 cm (1 in) ginger

3 tablespoons lime juice1 teaspoon sesame oilsalt and sugar to taste

Garnish:

1 cucumber, sliced

Prepare the chicken well in advance. Prick thechicken with a fork to allow seasonings to penetrate.Blend or pound garlic, shallots and ginger then mixwith all other ingredients and rub into chicken.Marinate 4 hours or overnight if possible. Roastchicken in a hot oven for about 20 minutes. Cut intoserving pieces and put on a platter garnished withsliced cucumber.

Wash the rice, drain and put in a saucepan orrice cooker. Pound the ginger and garlic togetherand add to rice together with butter, pandan leaves,salt and sufficient water to cook the rice. When therice is cooked, fluff up with a fork, put in a servingbowl and decorate with fried shallots.

Blend all the chilli sauce ingredients togetheruntil fine.

Serve the rice with the chicken, cucumber andchilli sauce, with a bowl of clear chicken soup toaccompany it ifliked.

104 MAIN MEA~ DISHES

AYAM LIMAU PURUT & SAYUR LEMAKChicken with Lime Leaf&.·Vegetables in Coconut Milk

Opposite.·AyamLimau

Purut (left) andStiyur Lemak

(right)

AYAM LIMAU PURUT

The chann of this Nonya curry comes from itsaromatic fresh herbs and seasonings. 0 ~

%cup oil%chicken, cut in serving pieces%cup water1 slice asam gelugor or lime juice to taste1 cup thick coconut milk4 fragrant lime leavessalt to taste

Spice Paste.2 medium red or brown onions8 red chillies3 cloves garlic1 lemon grass3 cm (1%in) galangal1 teaspoon turmeric powder

.Chop and blend the spice paste ingredients, addinga little of the oil if necessary to keep the bladesturning. Heat oil and fry the blended ingredients forabout 5 minutes, until fragrant.

Add the chicken, asam gelugor and water andsimmer until the chicken is half cooked. Add thecoconut milk and lime leaves and simmer uncovered until the chicken is tender. Add salt and, ifusing,lime juice to taste.

SAYUR LEMAK

A Nonya adaptation of Malay-style vegetablessimmered in seasoned coconut milk. ®~

3 tablespoons oil1%cups water1%cups thick coconut milk1 carrot, cut-in 4 cm (11/2 in) matchsticks1 small aubergine, cut in 4 cm (1%in)

matchsticks3 long beans, cut in 4 cm (1 1/2 in) lengths%cabbage, coarsely shredded1 hard beancurd, deep fried and quarteredsalt to taste

Spice paste:2 red chillies3 candlenuts5 shallots%teaspoon turmeric powder%teaspoon dried shrimp paste1 teaspoons dried prawns, soaked 5 minutes

in warm water

qlOP the spice paste ingredients and blend finely,adding a little oil if necessary to keep the bladesturning. Heat the oil and fry the blended ingredients for 5 minutes, then add the water and coconutmilk and bring slowly to the boil.

Add the prepared vegetables, beancurd and saltand simmer uncovered until the vegetables are justcooked.


RENDANG DAGINGRich Coconut Beef

No festive occasion is complete without this richMalay dish where beef is cooked to melting tenderness in a fragrant, coconut gravy. Q) Q) Q)

%cup oil3 em (1 1/4 in) cinnamon stick2 cloves4 star anise2 cardamom pods500 g (lIb) topside beef, cubedI cup thick coconut milkI slice asam gelugOY, or 2 teaspoons dried

tamarind pulp soaked in warm water forjuice

2 fragrant lime leaves, very finely slicedI turmeric leaf, very finely sliced2 tablespoons keristk (see below)I %teaspoons sugarsalt to taste

Spice Paste:2 shallots2 cm (% in) galangal3 lemon grass2 cloves garlic2 cm (% in) ginger10 dried chillies, soaked in hot water

Chop the spice paste ingredients then puree in ablender until fine. Heat the oil, add the spice paste,cinnamon, cloves, star anise and cardamom and fryfor 5 minutes.

Add the beef, coconut milk and asam gelugor ortamarind juice. Simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, until the meat is almost cooked. Add thelime and turmeric leaves, kerisik, sugar and salt.Lower the heat and simmer until the meat is reallytender and the gravy has dried up. Approximatecooking time 1 to 11/ 2 hours.

Helpful hints: To prepare the kerisik, roast 300 g(10 oz) grated fresh coconut in a slow oven untilbrown. Alternatively, cook in a dry wok, stirringconstantly. Let the coconut cool, then grind finelyuntil the oil comes out.


LAMB RIBS WITH BLACK PEPPER

Lashings of freshly ground black pepper combinedwith other pungent Indian spices plus Chinese soyand oyster sauce make this Eurasian dish a realwinner. ••

3 tablespoons oil4 cloves garlic, chopped6 level tab~espoonsfreshly ground black

pepper6 tablespoons black soy sauce3 tablespoons oyster sauce1 kg (2 lb) lamb ribs or cutlets6 cardamom pods, bruised6 cloves10 cm (4 in) cinnamon stick2 cups water2-3 tablespoons sugar1 teaspoon salt3 onions, sliced1%cups frozen gre~n peas, defrosted

Heat oil in saucepan. Add garlic, pepper, soy andoyster sauce and saute for 1 minute over mediumheat. Add the nbs, cardamom, cloves and cinnamonand 1 cup of water. Cook uncovered over gentleheat, stirring from time to time, until tender. If themeat threatens to dry up, add more of the remaining cup of water, a little at a time, taring cooking.

When the meat is tender, add su ar, salt, onionsand green peas. Stir to mix well a d serve immediately.

Helpful hints: Be sure not to use high heat duringcooking or the spices will bum and make the flavourbitter.

110

" t:- ~ .

MAIN' MEAL DISHES

BEANSPROUT KERABU & SERUNDING

Opposite:Beansprout

Kerabu (left) aYulCoconut Serunding

(right)

BEANSPROUT KERABU

This salad from the northern states of PeninsularMalaysia an excellent accompaniment to rich orspicy dishes. Q;) @)

4 tablespoons fresWy grated coconut500 g (1 lb) beansprouts4 tablespoons oilsalt to taste

Spice Paste:8 red chillies6 shallotsZ tablespoons dried prawns, washed and

drained3 cloves garlic

Fry the coconut over low heat in a wok, stirringconstantly, until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

Blanch the beansprouts in boiling water for justa few seconds, drain, plunge into cold water anddrain again then set aside.

Chop and puree the spice paste ingredientsfinely. Heat oil in a pan and fry the blendedingredients for 10 minutes, adding a little water ifthe mixture becomes dry. Season and add theroasted coconut. Fry until the mixture is dried.Allow to cool.

Combine with the beansprouts and serve.

COCONUT SERUNDING

This is traditionally served with Nasi Kerabu. ® Q)

1 fresh coconut, grated8 tablespoons oil1 tablespoon fennel powderZ slices asam gelugor or 1teaspoon lime juicesalt to taste1 teaspoon sugar1 turmeric leaf, sliced4 fragrant lime leaves, sliced

Spice Paste:15 dried chillies, soaked in hot waterZ lemon grassZ cm C% in) galangal1 cm (I;z in) turmeric3 shallots3 cloves garlic

Chop and blend the spice paste ingredients. Roastthe grated coconut in the oven until light golden.Heat the oil and fry spice paste together with thefennel powder and asamgelugor slices for 5 minutes.Add the salt, sugar, lime juice (if using) and roastedcoconut. Fry over low heat until the coconut is crispand dry. Add the turmeric and fragrant lime leavesand cook for another 3 minutes. Leave to coolbefore serving.

HZ MAIN. MEAL DISHES

NEW YEAR SALAD & STIR-FRIED PEAS

Opposite:Stir-fried Peas~eft) and New

Year salad(right).

NEW YEAR SALAD

A firm family favourite during the New Year's Evereunion dinner, when many other rich dishes areserved.•

1 large yam bean (bengkuang)1 medium sized carrot1 dried squid, about 10 cm (4 in) long2 tablespoons oil2 cloves garlic, finely chopped5 medium-sized prawns, peeled and diced%cup chicken stockwhite pepper2 tablespoons light soy saucelong leafed lettucehoisin sauce (optional)

Peel the yam bean and carrot and cut both intomatchstick pieces. Shred dried squid finely (or buyit already shredded) and soak with boiling water tocover for about IO minutes. Drain well.

Heat oil in a wok and stir fry the garlic for a fewseconds. Add the prawns and cook until theychange colour, then add the squid. Mix thoroughlythen add the yam bean and carrot and cook untilthe yam bean starts to soften. Add chicken stockand simmer, turning from time to time, until thevegetables are soft. Add soy sauce, mix well andserve at room temperature together with a plate oflettuce leaves. Each dinner puts some of the vege-

table inside a leaf and rolls it up to eat, adding asmear of hoisin sauce ifliked.

STIR-FRIED PEAS

Tender sugar snap peas contrast beautifully incolour and texture with the white garlic and pinkprawns.•

250 g (% lb) sugar snap peas%teaspoon Chinese rice wine2 tablespoons light soy sauce1%tablespoons oyster sauce1 tablespoon oil8 cloves garlic, skins left on and lightly bruised%cup water or fresh chicken stock1 heaped teaspoon cornflour, blended in a

little water .100 g (3% oz) peeled prawns%teaspoon salt

Blanch the peas in boiling water for no more than5 seconds then drain thoroughly. Mix rice wine, soysauce and oyster sauce and set aside.

Heat oil until very hot and stir fry garlic for a fewseconds, then add the prawns and fry until theychange colour. Add the peas and mixed seasoningsand stir fry for about half a minute, then add waterand bring to the boil. Thicken with cornflour, addsalt and serve.


SNAKE GOURD & SPICY PUMPKIN

Opposite.Snake Gourd

(left) cmd SpicyPumpkin (right).

SNAKE GOURD

Colours and textures contrast beautifully in thissouthern Indian dish. ®

1 cup yellow lentils%teaspoon turmeric powder2 cups water1 snake gourd4 shallots, sliced1 clove garlic, sliced2 tablespoons oil1 tablespoon brown mustard seed1 teaspoon salt1 sprig curry leaves2 red chillies, seeds removed, sliced

Wash lentils thoroughly, combine with turmeric andwater and simmer until soft.

While the lentils are cooking, prepare the gourd.For a more decorative appearance, scrape the skindeeply lengthwise with a fork and cut in halflengthwise. Remove the pulpy centre and cut across in 0.5cm (Yzin) slices. Alternative, peel the gourd, removethe centre and cut in circles 0.5 cm (Yz in) thick.

Fry the shallots and garlic in oil until soft, thenadd mustard seeds and cook until they begin to pop.Add cooked lentils, gourd and salt, and cook untiltender. Just before removing from heat, add curryleaf and chilli. Toss and serve.

Helpful hints: If snake gourd is not available, substitute 500 g (lIb) oflong beans, or slices ofany typeof marrow or summer squash.

SPICY PUMPKIN

Gourds are very popular among Malaysians ofSouthern Indian origin, especially sweet-tastingpumpkin which goes well with spices. ®

750 g (1%Ib) pumpkin, peeled and cut in 2.5cm (1 in) pieces

3 tablespoons oil1 large onion, finely chopped1 tablespoon brown mustard seed2 sprigs curry leaves1 tablespoon fish or chicken curry powder2-3 teaspoons chilli powder%teaspoon turmeric powder2 cups water1 teaspoon saltsugar to taste

Prepare the pumpkin and set aside. Heat the oil andfry the onion until golden, then add mustard seedand curry leaves and fry until mustard seeds pop.Add the spice powders and fry for 30 seconds, thenput in pumpkin and stir for a minute or two, untilwell coated with spices. Slowly add the water, stirring, then add salt and simmer uncovered until tender and dry.


PISANG JANTUNGBanana Bud Salad

BANANA BUD SALAD

No Malaysian with bananas growing in the gardenwould waste the bud of the banana flower, whichis also sold in local markets. It tastes surprisinglysimilar to artichokes. This version of the popularbanana bud salad comes from the Portuguesecommunity in Malacca. 'I.

1 banana bud100 g (3%oz) prawns, steamed and peeled2 tablespoons oil2 teaspoons finely pounded dried prawns%cup thick coconut milk% teaspoon salt5 em (2 in) piece of cucumber, shredded in

matchsticks6 small sour carambola (belimbing), very finely

sliced lengthwise1 fresh red chilli, finely sliced4 shallots, sliced2 small limes, halved

Spice Paste:3 fresh red chillies2 cloves garlic6 shallots1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste

Remove the outer red leaves ofthe banana bud andsimmer the heart in lightly salted water for 20minutes. Drain, cool, then discard away any hardportion of the boiled banana bud. Cut in halflengthwise then cut crosswise in coarse slices. Setaside with the cooked prawns.

Chop the spice paste ingredients and blend withI;z cup water. Fry dried prawns gently in oil overmoderate heat for half a minute, then add theblended ingredients and cook for about 2-3 minutes,until fragrant. Add coconut milk and salt and leaveto cool.

To serve, put banana bud in the centre ofa plate,add cucumber, carambola, chilli and shallots. Topwith prawns and pour over the cooled sauce.

Helpftil hints: If banana bud is not available, substitute with 250 g (8 oz) cooked shredded chickenbreast.


MULIUAubergine and Prawn Curry

This mild,fragrant dish from Malacca's PortugueseSettlement is traditionally offered by the bridegroom's family for all his relatives the night beforethe wedding, when only fish and vegetable dishesmay be served. <D @

6 small thin aubergines, about 15-20 cm(6-8 in) long

1 cup oil1 tablespoon powdered fennel2 teaspoons powdered cumin3 teaspoons powdered black pepper1 teaspoon salt300 g (10 oz) prawns, peeled but tail left on1 cup toasted grated coconut, blended until

slightly oily1%cups thick coconut milk1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar4 cloves garlic, finely sliced and fried for

garnish

Spice Paste:6 red chillies18 shallots3 cm (1%in) fresh turmeric4 stalks lemon grass6 candlenuts1%teaspoons dried shrimp paste1 cup water

Slice off! cm Wz in) of end of each aubergine, butleave on stem. Cut a cross lengthwise to abouthalfway down each aubergine and soak in waterwhile preparing other ingredients.

Chop the spice paste ingredients then blend withwater until fine. Mix in the powdered fennel,cumin and pepper and set aside.

Drain and dry the aubergines. Heat enough oilto deep fry the aubergines and cook for about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. Tip out all but %cup ofoil and gently fry the spice mixture and salt forabout 5 minutes. Add the prawns and poundedcoconut and stir fry until the prawns changecolour. Add the coconut milk a little at a time, thenadd vinegar. Simmer a minute or two then returnaubergine to the pan and simmer gently uncoveredfor 5 minutes.

Helpftd hints: The aubergines and sauce can beprepared in advance, then combined and cookedfor 5 minutes just before serving. If liked, extrachillies can be added to the spice paste for a morefiery taste.


PENGAT PISANG & PISANG GORENGBananas in Coconut Milk &. Fried Bananas

Opposite:Pengat Pisang

(left) and PisangGoreng (right).

PENGAT PISANG

Coconuts, fragrant palm sugar and easily availablefruits and tubers such as bananas, jackfruit, cempedak, young coconut flesh, tapioca, sweet potato andyam are combined to make various types ofPengat. This version has a particularly pleasing,velvety texture as a result of the sago. @l)

10 ripe finger bananas (pisang emas)2 tablespoons pearl sago1 litre (4 cups) water4 pandan leaves1 cup thick coconut milk100 g (31/2 0Z) palm sugar, boiled with %cup

water to obtain syrupa pinch of salt

Peel bananas and halve crosswise. Wash sago anddrain.

Bring the water to the boil with screwpine leaf,then add the sago, stirring constantly. Simmer untilthe sago balls tum transparent, then add the bananas, thick coconut milk, palm sugar syrup and saltaccording to taste.

Bring back to tht:: boil and immediately removefrom heat. Serve at room temperature.

PISANG GORENG

A popular snack sold at food stalls all over thecountry. Sweet potato or yam can be used insteadofbananas if preferred. @l)@l)

10 large finn bananas200 g (7% oz) rice flour%teaspon salt1 eggwhite, beaten%teaspoon slaked lime (kapor)%cup wateroil for deep frying

Peel the bananas and halve lengthwise. Mix riceflour, salt, egg, slaked lime and water. Stir until thebatter is smooth, adding more water if necessary toget the consistency ofa thick cream. Sieve then foldin the beaten egg white.

Heat oil in wok. Coat pieces ofbanana in batterand fry, turning frequently until golden brown andcooked. Adjust the heat so that banana does notbum. Remove, drain on paper towel.

Helpful hints: The slaked lime is added to ensurea crisp texture to the batter, but can be omitted ifnot available.

122 DESSERTS

SAGO HONEYDEW & GULA MELAKA

Opposite.sago Honeydew

(left)and GulaMelaka (right).

SAGO WITH HONEYDEW

Chinese desserts are not commonly served in thehome, although elaborate restaurant meals oftenfinish with a refreshing dessert such as this. ®~

34cup pearl sago7 cups water1 cup coconut milk1 cup sugar%cup water%honeydew melon

Soak sago with 2 cups water for 30 minutes thendrain. Bring the remaining 5 cups water to the boiland add sago. Cook until transparent. Drain in asieve and wash under cold running water. Leaveaside until cool.

Boil together sugar and 1/2 cup water together tomake a syrup and allow to cool.

Peel the honeydew; cut in half and discard seeds.Blend half the honeydew to make juice and cutthe other half into small cubes, or make small ballswith a melon baller. Mix the sago, coconut milk,honeydew juice, honeydew cubes and sugar syrupto taste. Serve chilled.

GULA MELAKA

Smooth sago with creamy coconut milk and goldenbrown palm sugar syrup make this one ofMalaysia'sbest-loved desserts. The name literally means"Malacca Sugar", although palm sugar (also knownas gula merah or "red sugar") is made throughout thecountry. ®®

3 litres (12 cups) water3 pandan leaves300 g (10 oz) pearl sago1 cup thick coconut milk100 g (3% oz) palm sugar, boiled with

%cup water to make syrup

Bring. the water to boil with the pandan leaves.Meanwhile, wash the sago in a sieve,' soak in coldwater to cover for 3 minutes and drain. When wateris boiling, add the sago and simmer for about 15minutes until it becomes transparent.

Pour the sago into a sieve and wash under coldrunning water. Place sago into small moulds andrefrigerate until set.

To serve, unmolfld the sago in individualserving dishes. Serve with coconut milk and palmsugar syrup.

124 DESSERTS

AIS KACANGShaved Ice with Red Beans

A delicious way to beat the heat, Ais (Ice) Kacangis a mound of shaved ice piled onto a mixture ofjellies, red beans and sweet corn. Add a dollop ofbrightly coloured syrup and a generous splash ofevaporated milk and it's a treat that not only the children will enjoy. The following amounts are for eachindividual serving. i) i)

1 heaped tablespoon red (azukr) beans, boileduntil soft

1 heaped tablespoon sweet corn kernels1 heaped tablespoon finely diced jelly1 heaped tablespoon cerulol (optional)1 tablespoon chopped peanuts1 teaspoon chopped preserved nutmeg fruit

(optional)large bowl of shaved ice1 tablespoon palm. sugar syrup1 tablespoon red cordial or coloured sugar

syrup cooked with a pandan leaf2 tablespoons evaporated milk

Measure the beans, corn, jelly, cendol, peanuts andnutmeg fruit into a bowl. Top with a cone of shavedice, then pour over the palm sugar syrup, cordialand milk. Serve immediately.

Helpful hints: Ice must be very finely shaved forthis dish; try processing it in a food processor orblender.

126 DESSERTS

NONYA PANCAKE

A Nonya version of the Malay stuffed pancake,Kuih Dadar, is served with a coconut sauce as ateatime treat or snack, rather than a dessert, inMalaysia. ~~ f2l)

Batter:10 pandan leaves1 cup water150 g (5 oz) plain flour1 eggscant %cup fresh milk%teaspoon salt2 teaspoons melted butter

Fl1ling:

2 cups grated coconut11/2 cups water3 pandan leaves%teaspoon salt150 g (5 oz) palm sugar, chopped

Coconut Sauce:%cup thick coconut milk%cup water3 pandan leaves1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon cornflourpinch of salt

Prepare the batter by blending the pandan leaveswith water and straining to obtain the juice. Sift theflour into a bowl and add egg, milk, salt and pandan juice. Stir until smooth, adding more water ifnecessary to obtain a thin consistency. Set asidewhile preparing the filling and sauce.

Combine all filling ingredients in a saucepanand simmer over very low heat, stirring occasional-.ly, for about 45 minutes, until thick and dry. Setaside to cool.

Combine all the coconut sauce ingredients ina saucepan and stir continuously over low heat untilthe sauce thickens and clears. Sieve and serve warmor at room temperature.

Cook the pancakes. Grease a non-stick pan witha little butter and pour in enough batter to make apancake about 15-20 em (6-8 in) in diameter. Cookgently on both sides and reserve. Repeat until all thebatter is used.

To serve, put 2-3 tablespoonsful of the fillingin the centre of a pancake. Tuck in the edges androll up cigar fashion. Serve the pancakes, preferablystill warm or at room temperature, with the coconutsauce.

128 DESSERTS

The following is an alphabetical listing ofingredients and recipes appearing in this book. Recipe names arecapitalised. Indigenous ingredientnames are in italics.

agar agar 26, 34Ais Kacang (Shaved Ice) 126anchovies 34Asam Laksa Penang (Sour Penang

Noodle Soup) 66asam (tamarind) 39asam geZugor 34aubergine- Aubergine and Prawn Curry

(Muliu) 120- Aubergine with Basil (Sambal

Terong) 74Ayam Limau Purut (Chicken with

Lime Leaf) 106Ayam Percik (Spicy Barbecued

Chicken) 96bamboo shoots 34bananas- Banana Bud Salad 118- Bananas in Coconut Milk 122- Fried Bananas 122beancurd 34beansprouts 34Beansprout Kerabu 112Beef, Rich Coconut 108belacan (shrimp paste) 12, 39belimbing 26,34bird's-eye chillies 35black Chinese vinegar 34black sauce, sweet 34

130

IndexBread, Flaky Fried 76candlenut 35cardamom 35celery 35chicken- (Barbecued) Chicken Wings 98- Barbecued Chicken, Spicy 96- Chicken Rice 104- Chicken with Lime Leaf 106- Chicken satay 94- Devil Chicken Curry 102- (Indian) Chicken Curry 100chilli 35, 44- Chilli Ginger Sauce 44- Chilli Peanuts with

Anchovies 44- Chilli Pickle, Stuffed 45chives 35cinnamon 35cloud ear fungus 35cloves 35coconut- Bananas in Coconut Milk 122- milk 24,35- Noodles in Spicy Coconut-milk

gravy 64- Rich Coconut Beef 108- Coconut Serunding 112coriander 26,36crab- Black Pepper Crab 84- Crab Claw Soup, Spicy 56cucumber- Cucumber and Pineapple

Sambal 41- Dried Cucumber Acar 42

cumin 26,36curry- Chicken Curry, Devil 102- Chicken Curry, Indian 100- Fish Curry, Hot Sour 80- Fish Curry, Indian 86- Mutton Curry, Dry 100- Pineapple and Prawn Curry 80- salted Fish and Pineapple

Curry 88curry leaf 36Curry PUffs 48daun kesum (polygonum) 36daun pandan (screwpine leaf) 38dim sum 18fennel 36fenugreek 36fish- Borneo (Marinated) Fish 90- Hot Sour Fish Curry 80- Indian Fish Curry 86- Portuguese Baked Fish 92- Salted Fish and Pineapple

Curry 88five-spice powder 36galangal 12, 26, 36garlic 36ginger 36- Chilli Ginger sauce 44- ginger bud, wild 39Gula Melaka 39, 124Ice, Shaved (Ais Kacang) 126Ikan Asam Pedas (Hot Sour Fish

Curry) 80ikan bilis 12, 34, 36kaffir lime leaf 37

kenduri 14krupuk 37Kuih Pie Tee (Top Hats) 50Kway Teow, Fried 18,56Laksa Lemak (Noodles in Spicy

Coconut-milk gravy) 64Lamb Ribs with Black Pepper II 0lemon grass 37lily buds, dried 37lime leaf, fragrant (kaffir) 37- Chicken with Lime Leaf 106Mango Chutney 42Mango Kerabu 44Mee Goreng (Indian Fried

Noodles) 62Mee Siam (Spicy Noodles) 60Muliu (Aubergine and Prawn

Curry) 120mushrooms, dried black 37mustard seed, brown 35Mutton Curry, Dry 100Mutton Soup, Indian 54Nanas Lemak (Pineapple and

Prawn Curry) 80Nasi Ayam (Chicken Rice) 104Nasi Bokhari (Spicy Rice with

Chicken) 70Nasi Goreng 12Nasi Kemuli (Nonya Wedding

Rice) 74Nasi Kerabu (RIce with Fresh

Herbs) 11,68New Year Salad 114Nonya Pancake 128Nonya Prawn Salad 78Nonya Wedding Rice 74noodles 37- Brown Noodles, Yen's 58- Fried Rice-Flour Noodles 56- Indian Fried Noodles 62

- Noodles in Spicy Coconut-milkgravy 64

- Sour Penang Noodle Soup 66- Spicy Noodles 60nutmeg 37oyster sauce 38palm sugar (gula melaka) 38Pancakes, Lacy 72pandanleaf 11,26,38Papaya,Pickled 42Peas, Stir-fried 114Pengat Pisang (Bananas in Coconut

Milk) 122pepper- Black Pepper Crab 84- Lamb Ribs with Black

Pepper 110Pineapple and Prawn Curry 80Pisang Goreng (Fried Bananas) 122polygonum 38Popiah 35, 46Portuguese Baked Fish 92prawns- Butter Prawns 84- dried 38- Nonya Prawn Salad 78- Pineapple and Prawn Curry 80- Prawn Sambal 72- Spicy Prawns in a Sarong 82Pumpkin, Spicy 116Rasam (Spicy Crab Claw Soup) 19,

56rempah 31,33Rendang Daging 14, 108rice 38- Chicken Rice 104- Nonya Wedding Rice 74- Special Fried Rice 98- Spicy Rice with Chicken 70rice wine 38

rose essence 38Roti Canai (Flaky Fried Indian

Bread) 76Sago Honeydew 124Sambal Belacan 41Sambal Terong (Aubergine with

Basil) 74Sambal Udang 72Satay Ayam 94Sayur Lemak (Vegetables in

Coconut Milk) 106screwpine (pandan) leaf 38Serunding, Coconut 112sesame oil 38shallots 38- fried 45shrimp paste 39Snake Gourd 116Sop Kambing (Indian Mutton

Soup) 54soups- Indian Mutton Soup 54- Sour Penang Noodle Soup 66- Spicy Crab Claw Soup 56- Superior Won Ton Soup 52spring onion 39tamarind 39Top Hats 50turmeric 39vegetables- Aubergine with Basil 74- Beansprout Kerabu 112- New Year Salad 114- Sabah Vegetable 90- Snake Gourd 116- Spicy Pumpkin 116- Stir-fried Peas 114- Vegetables in Coconut Milk 106Won Ton Soup, Superior 52yam bean 39

131

List of Recipes by Ethnic OriginThis is a comprehensive listing ofrecipes appearing in this book,organised according to ethnic origin.

Chinese dishes(Barbecued) Chicken Wings 98Fried Kway Teow (Fried Rice-Flour

Noodles) 56New Year Salad 114Sago Honeydew 124Stir-fried Peas 114Superior Won Ton Soup 52Yen's Brown Noodles 58

Eurasian dishesBanana Bud Salad 118Devil Chicken Curry 102Lamb Ribs with Black Pepper 110Muliu (Aubergine and Prawn

Curry) 120, Portuguese Baked Fish 92

Salted Fish and Pineapple Curry 88

Indian dishesCurry Puffs 48Dry Mutton Curry 100(Indian) Chicken Curry 100Indian Fish Curry 86Indian Mee Goreng (Indian Fried

Noodles) 62Nasi Bokhari (Spicy Rice with

Chicken) 70

132

Rasam (Spicy Crab Claw Soup) 56Roti Canai (Flaky Fried Indian

Bread) 76Snake Gourd 116Spicy Pumpkin 116Sop Kambing (Indian Mutton

Soup) 54

Malay dishesAis Kacang (Shaved Ice with Red

Beans) 126Ayam Percik (Spicy Barbecued

Chicken) 96Beansprout Kerabu 112(Coconut) Serunding 112Gula Melaka 124Ikan Asam Pedas (Hot Sour Fish

Curry) 80Nanas Lemak (Pineapple and

Prawn Curry) 80Nasi Ayam (Chicken Rice) 104Nasi Kerabu (Rice with Fresh

Herbs) 68Pengat Pisang (Bananas in Coconut

Milk) 122Pisang Goreng (Fried Bananas) 122Rendang Daging (Rich Coconut

Beef) 108Roti Jala (Lacy Pancakes) 72Sambal Udang (Prawn Sambal) 72Satay Ayam (Chicken Satay) 94

Nonya dishesAsam Laksa Penang (Sour Penang

Noodle Soup) 66Ayam Limau Purut (Chicken with

Lime Leaf) 106Laksa Lemak (Noodles in Spicy

Coconut-milk gravy) 64Mee Siam (Spicy Noodles) 60Nasi Kemuli (Nonya Wedding

Rice) 74Nonya Pancake 128Nonya Prawn Salad 78Popiah 35, 46Sambal Terong (Aubergine with

Basil) 74Sayur Lemak (Vegetables in

Coconut Milk) 106Special Fried Rice 98Spicy Prawns in a Sarong 82Top Hats (Kuih Pie Tee) 50

OthersBlack Pepper Crab 84Borneo (Marinated) Fish 90Butter Prawns 84Sabah Vegetable 90

Chilli Pickle &. Acar-page 40

Indian Mee Goreng-page 63

Nasi Kerabu-page 69

AUST. $18.95(recommended)

The Food of Malaysia

TIe remarkable diversity of Malaysia andits exciting cuisines are brought to life inthis unique collection of 68 lavishly

illustrated recipes. Much more than a cookbook,The Food ofMalaysia provides an in-depth lookat the ethnic origins and cross-cultural influencesthat have produced exotic dishes like SaltedFish and Pineapple Curry, Black Pepper Crab,Mutton Soup, Aubergine with Basil, Raw FishSalad and Portuguese Baked Fish. Stunningphotos and detailed information on ingredientsand cooking techniques make The Food ofMalaysia an ideal introduction to the food andculinary lore of the Crossroads of Asia.

WENDY HUTTON, author of the Introductionand editor of the collection, is a writer andeditor with a particular interest in thecuisines of Southeast Asia.

ISBN 0-670-90683-290101

I

9 780670906833

Kemuli &. Sambal Terong-page 75

Nonya Prawn Salad-page 79

the food of malaysia

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