the embroiderers' corner

PATIALA: Wedding season is just around thecorner and women across the region are busypreparing garments for their daughters,nieces, and families. One of the mostsignificant pieces that are prepared by womenduring this time is Phulkaris. Phulkari, meaning'flower work’, is the Punjabi art ofembroidering on textile. Silk thread in vibrantcolours is used on cotton which is colouredeither brick-red or indigo to create thisbeautiful piece of work. Apart from itsaesthetic value, the Phulkari holds anextremely vital role in Punjabi culture.Originally carried out by women of a family,Phulkari making is linked with the traditionsand history of the family and community.Women create Phulkaris and present it as agift to a bride to bless her and her marriage.

NEW DELHI: An iconic institute, theNational Crafts Museum and HastakalaAcademy houses a multitude of fineembroidered pieces in its vast textilecollection. Among these pieces aresome of the earliest examples ofembroidery that were found across thesubcontinent. Embroidery refers to theart of embellishing a textile with theuse of a needle and thread. At timesthe textile and thread are replaced byother materials as well such as leatherand fine wire respectively. Some of theearliest evidence pointing to the use ofembroidered garments has been foundin the case of the Ancient Egyptian,Greek, and Chinese Civilisations. InIndia, although the art of embroiderymay have existed earlier, mostexamples have been found startingfrom the Mughal period.

THE EMBROIDERERS'CORNER

JULY 2021

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Fragment of a temple hanging of the Vaishnava sect. Fine chain stitch silk embroidery on silk; 214 cm x 145 cm.

Kachchh, Gujarat, c. early 20th century. National Crafts Museum and Hastakala Academy, New Delhi

THE EMBROIDERERS' CORNER

Wikimedia Commons

BUY THE LATEST INPHULKARI FASHION FROM:

Punjab Textile Depot,ABC Street, Amritsar

Take back home a piece of your own heritage!

EDITORIAL

The beauty of a diverse country like India lies in itsdiverse people, cuisine, language, and dress.Embroidery is one such part of India’s culture that isequally vibrant and diverse as its other aspects. Eachkind of embroidery found in India varies according tothe region and portrays the intricate artistry ofcraftspeople across the country. Along withshowcasing the artistic traditions of a region,embroidery also throws light on the social fabric of thecommunity it is practised in. As a material heritage,embroidery acts as a storyteller, a preserver oftraditions, an expression of thoughts, and an economicproduct. From everyday life to aesthetically placedtraditional designs, embroidery depicts all!

DIVERSE COUNTRY, DIVERSE EMBROIDERY!


Wikimedia Commons

Kashida - Believed to have originated inKashmir, it involves the use of multi-coloured

threads and beads to stitch and createdesigns on items like shawls and saris.

Chikan - Chikan or Chikankari is the fine,detailed embroidery done on muslin cloth with

white cotton threads. It was developed inLucknow, Uttar Pradesh under the patronageof the Nawabs of Oudh, and continues to bewidely produced in the region even today!

Kantha - One of the earliest forms ofembroidery in the country, Kantha was born inthe rural areas of Bengal almost 500 years ago!

This method of embroidery is recycling at itsfinest since old saris are used to make a piece

and the thread.

Shisha - This unique form of embroidery ismostly found in north-western states ofIndia such as Gujarat. Small pieces of

mirrors are incorporated into textiles asdecorations and also to ward off any evil.

Kasuti - A traditional folk embroidery ofKarnataka, it originated in the ChalukyaPeriod (6-12 CE) and is identified by its

colourful geometric pattern. The KarnatakaHandicrafts Development Corporation holds

the GI for the Kasuti embroidery.


Draw a Phulkari

ACTIVITIES FOR OUR READERS!

Study a Sainchi Phulkari - which tells the story of oureveryday life, and draw one of your own!

Match the Following!

1) Punjab2) Kashmir3) Karnataka4) Gujarat5) Lucknow

a) Shishab) Chikanc) Phulkarid) Kasutie) Kashida

Find the hiddenwords in the block!

KanthaThreadZardozi

MirrorChikan

AriBanjara

Documenting the SkillEmbroidery is an integral part of our heritage and therefore,it is necessary to document it to be able to preserve it for thefuture. While embroidery is a practical art, manyorganisations and communities have worked hard to preserveit in the written form as well. Chanda Shroff is one suchindividual who has extensively documented the embroidery ofIndia. When visiting Dhaneti in Kutch in 1966 to help out withcommunity kitchens after devastating droughts, Chanda cameacross the embroidery done by the women of the region. Shewas extremely fascinated with the art and its various formsacross Kutch. Realising the importance of this culture and theeconomic value it could hold, Chanda dedicated her life todiscover and document this form of embroidery over the next47 years. In 2016, under the direction of her daughter andThe Shrujan Trust, The Living and Learning Design Centre wasset up in Ajrakhpur, Kutch to help document, preserve, andpromote the embroidery and craft of over 12 differentcommunities of Kutch.

PAGE 04THE EMBROIDERERS' CORNER

Living and Learning Design Centre

Living and Learning Design Centre

This season, come experience the beauty and tranquility of the world’s largest saltdesert, the Rann of Kutch!

Replete with indigenous flora and fauna, the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat is a topdestination to take in the stunning landscapes nature has to offer.

Visit the website for more information on specially curated tours.

Looking to discover new places in the country?

Did You Know?

The Handloom andHandicraft Industry is oneof the oldest industries ofIndia, spanning centuries!

Employing the largest number of Indians,after agriculture, the handicrafts industryis and has been the backbone of ruralIndia for centuries. Embroidery makes upan integral part of this industry. Due to itshighly skilled and intensive nature,embroidery is also highly valued in theluxury industry. For example, Indiandesigners like Tarun Tahiliani and ManishArora often use embroidery in their piecesto create a luxurious look. With millions working in this sector onvarious products and pioneering theglobal shift to environment-friendlypractices, the handicrafts industry hasthe potential to become a billion-dollarindustry.


Tarun Tahiliani

Embroidery in the 21st Century

While embroidery is attractive to many, it faces anumber of challenges, particularly in the past fewyears. The advancement of machines, changes inconsumer behaviour, and its time-consuming nature hasbeen extremely disadvantageous to the art ofembroidery. The spread of Covid-19 has further reduced productionand consumption levels of embroidered products,making it particularly difficult for artisans to surviveand continue their trade.

Contribute to yourlocal craftspeople& help save this

valuable part of ourheritage!

Donate now at www.saveourartisans.xyz.com

Tarun Tahiliani

The lockdown of 2020 & 2021 led many to discover new hobbies - from baking bananabread to painting! Embroidery was not left behind in such discoveries either, with

young women and children creating their own stitched masterpieces.

Using everyday activities as an inspiration, like in the case of Manvi Gandotra fromBengaluru, or being inspired by nature, like Aditya Lavanya of Thaiyal, Nagercoil,

people across India have gone back to their roots of embroidery as an escape. Otherslike Kirti Poonia of Okhai have used this time to empower others with embroidery.Providing artisans with materials at home, Okhai works with Rabari artisans from

Gujarat’s Okhamandal region to create beautiful embroidered pieces.

LOCKDOWN DISCOVERIES!


https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/indian-embroideryhttps://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_e/hd_txt_e.htmhttps://www.britannica.com/art/embroideryhttps://sayitwithstitches.net/the-history-of-embroidery/#:~:text=While%20embroidery%20is%20practiced%20across,hand%2Dstitched%20and%20decorated%20clothing.https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/sanskriti-museum-of-indian-textiles-sanskriti-museums/zQKibEMEq4p9LQ?hl=enhttps://www.thehindu.com/entertainment/art/five-artistes-who-turned-to-embroidery-this-lockdown/article32485234.ecehttps://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/kasida-embroidery/https://www.wanderingsilk.org/kantha-history-and-meaning

References:

Okhai.org

the embroiderers' corner

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