the curly girl handbook.pdf
Post on 25-Oct-2015
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DESCRIPTIONcurly girl handbook
Note: For each type of curl in the book, I give an approximate time for how long it will take tocleanse and style. This period will get shorter as hair gets healthier and more hydrated.
Simply being curly is not enough. Beautiful, healthy hair is the result of first accepting your curlsfor their natural tendencies, then working with them, and being really consistent in your dailycare routine. Remember, you are the custodian of that little garden atop your head! It will reflectthe care that you give it.
DAILY ROUTINE FOR BOTTICELLI, CORKSCREW, ANDCORKICELLI CURLS
Total cleansing/conditioning and styling time: 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the length of thehair.
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Daily Routines: Botticelli, Corkscrew, and Corkicelli Curls (3:36)
Cleansing and Conditioning 1 Step under the shower as if youre standing under a waterfall and let the water cascade through yourcurls. Resist the impulse to start scrubbing your head and disturbing your hairs basic shape. If thewater pressure is strong, cup your hair in your hands. Wet hair thoroughly.
2 Cup one hand, take a sulfate-free cleanser or botanical conditioner, and apply it in a straight linealong your fingertips the way youd apply toothpaste to a toothbrush. Evenly distribute to thefingertips of the other hand and then apply directly to the scalp; be careful not to disturb your curls.
Distribute cleanser evenly on fingertips.
3 Starting at the temples, massage the scalp with circular motions, move down the sides and then tothe top of your head and crown. Finally, move down the back of your head, finishing up at the nape.Now let the water spray through your hair, rinsing out whatever your fingers have loosened. Whenyou rinse the top of your hair, the ends of the hair will get clean as the cleanser or conditioner movesdownward. This method will create fewer tangles and will prevent overwashing the typically drier,more mature ends of your hair.
In the past, you probably shampooed the top of your hair first. It is usually the first place toget rinsed, too, so conditioner was washed out before it did its job. No wonder we curlygirls have been f.b.i. (frizz-bewildered individuals) for years. We need to reverse thissequence: Have the top of your head be the last place you apply cleanser and the last placeyou rinse out conditioner. And say good-bye to your frizz halo forever.
4 Take a generous palmful of your conditioner (see page 36), evenly distribute it between your hands,and graze it downward on the outer layer (aka the canopy) of your hair as if you were icing a cake. Ifneeded, apply more conditioner through the hair at each side of your head, using your fingers as acomb. The point is to distribute the conditioner evenly through your hairs landscape so no curl is leftbehind. Now your hair should feel smooth and silkylike wet seaweed.
5 Apply a dollop of conditioner (about the size of a quarter) under the hair at the nape of your neck,the spot most prone to tangles and knots. The hair there breaks easily, so be patient and gentle whentrying to release any tangles or knots with your fingers. (Ripping equals frays and frays equal moreknots.) Then, using your fingers, comb through your hair from underneath, removing any loose hairs.Remember, its normal to lose about a hundred strands a day!
6 Before rinsing your hair, stand away from the shower flow. Cup your hands under the water andsplash water over your hair a couple of times. I call this a trickle or baptism rinse; it ensures that thecanopy of the hair, which is constantly exposed to the environment and thus very dry, can have theright amount of conditioner to stop it from frizzing. Over time, youll know instinctively whether torinse out any more conditioner at this point. If you do rinse, just let the shower spray fall over yourhead for a few seconds to evenly distribute the conditioner without removing it.
Styling 1 Step out of the shower and tilt your head forward. Loosely cupping a microfiber towel, papertowel, or an old cotton T-shirt, gently squeeze upward toward the scalp to remove excess water andencourage curl formation (see page 37). (It should sound very squishy.) Repeat this motion all aroundyour head. If you like your curls to be fuller, do this until the hair no longer drips; if you want moregravity to your curls, leave in more water.2 With the head still tilted forward, let your curls fall freely. Place a palmful of gel in one hand andevenly distribute it to the other hand. Apply the gel evenly throughout the landscape of the hair,making sure you cover all your curls. Starting at the ends, scrunch sections of hair up toward the scalp(visualize that youre pushing a spring together with both hands, and then releasing it). This methodwill cultivate or enhance the curl formation.
3 Slowly raise your head to an upright position, look up at the ceiling, and gently shake your hair soyour curls fall into their natural position. If its a humid day or you have a high halo frizz factor, takean additional quarter-sized amount of gel and rub it in both hands. Then very gently graze the gel overthe top layer of hair so the cuticle will be smooth.
GET A GRIP: THE CLIPPING TECHNIQUE
The roots of curly hair can sometimes dry flat because of the weight of the wet hair pullingdownward. This is especially the case with longer hair. Clipping hair at the roots relievesthe wet hair of its own weight as it dries, so you add lift and get a more even curl patternfrom roots to ends. This also helps hair dry faster. Heres how to use clips:
1 Place clips along the part where the roots meet the scalp. If you place the clip farther down thehair, youll add more weight and make the roots flatter. Dont be afraid of doing it wrong; itsreally very simple if you dont overthink it. Using a clawlike motion, lift a small amount of hairfrom the top of your head. (The hair should be gently pulled perpendicular to the scalp, notforward or backward.) Open the clip, slide it in at the base of the hair and leave it. Make surethe hair is as tight as when you pinched it and that the clip is close to the scalp. You will needabout six clips to lift the top of your hairin front, at the crown, and between those two points.Now leave your hair alone and let it dry.
2 For a little more advanced clipping, you may want to target areas where your hair tends to getflat when it dries, like the sides of the head at the area where the head curves near the crown(where a cowlick would be). As hair gets longer, this flat spot is more apparent, and if you coloryour hair, its where your roots show first. Use a side mirror to help you find your target forclipping. After some practice, youll be able to do this without looking.
3 Once your hair dries completely, use care and patience to remove the clips because hairswells during drying and can wrap around the clip the way ivy wraps around a tree trunk. Totake clips out, anchor the piece of hair gently with one hand, then with the other hand, open theclip and slide it out.
4 Sometimes you may want to leave the clips in for extra styling lift all day. If the clips are thesame color as your hair, no one can see them hidden in your curls once your hair dries. For agreater lift, add gel to the clips.
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Clipping and Diffusing Tutorials (1:29)
Spot cleansing your hair can be done as often as you like. Just spray lavender mist (seechapter 8, page 83, for the spray recipe) on a soft but durable damp paper towel and wind itaround your fingertip. Place your paper towel-clad finger on the scalp. With firm, circularmotions, rub out all dirt particles as you would a stain on a shirt. For wigs, extensions, andweaves you can use the same paper towel-covered finger technique, by gliding over thesurface and moving downward while lightly pressing. This cleaning method is also great touse when you are traveling or camping.
4 To give the curls on the top of your head a little volume, you need to lift and clip the hair at theroots. This method releases the top layer of hair from its own weight, allowing it to dry faster and inan even curl pattern from roots to ends. (For the clipping technique, see page 41.) Dont interrupt thecurls while theyre drying or theyll frizz up.
5 If you dont have time to air-dry your hair, you can use a diffuser (see page 55), hooded dryer(theyre surprisingly inexpensive and portable), or, if youre on the go, just put the heater on in yourcar. This creates the same kind of drying microclimate that youd get from a hooded dryer.
6 When your hair is completely dry, remove the clips very gently, to prevent them from ripping hair.Lean over, place your hands on your scalp, and with the tips of your fingers, very lightly shake yourhair at the roots to open up the curls. Stand upright, and very gently lift your fingers off the scalp, notraking them through your hair (which can cause frizz).Note: Skip this step if you like a more contained curl.
3 Rinse your hair by cupping it in your hands and allowing the water to flow through your fingers likea sieve.
SCALP TREATMENT (FOR ALL HAIR TYPES)Once a week, give your scalp an exfoliating scrub treatment. Exfoliating will slough off anydead skin cells and product buildup, making your scalp healthier and relieving any itchiness.See chapter 8, page 84, for exfoliating scrub recipe and directions.
4 Take a generous amount of botanical conditioner and evenly distribute it between your hands. Applyit to the entire canopy of the hair making sure no curl is left behind.
5 Apply a dollop of conditioner about the size of a quarter underneath, to the hair at the nape of yourneck. Even t