the cellar door: issue 18. the south of france

Issue 18 June 2014 – September 2014

Cottage Cases now available

Cellar Doorthe

Wine and possibi l i t ies by Banvil le & Jones Wine Co.

www.banvilleandjones.com 5

Features

25 À Chacun son Goût: Delicious Diversity in the South of France Tracy McCourt introduces the incredible diversity of styles across the south of France.

40 Six Questions for Kermit Lynch Sylvia Jansen engages wine importer and author Kermit Lynch in a Q&A about his favourite wine region.

44 Dinner in the Vineyard with Jean-Claude MasThe restaurant on the vineyards of prolific Domaine Paul Mas shares recipes and wine pairings for two of their most popular dishes.

53 The Banquet of the South of FranceExplore the top five reasons to visit this stunning region (hint: there’s more than just amazing wine!)

Cover: Lavender fields intermingle with vineyards in the south of France, creating the unique garrigue aroma profile.

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contents


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Columns

10 A Message from Tina Jones

14 Ask a Sommelier

18 Banville & Jones and Co

22 Behind the Label Laurent Miquel

30 Gary’s Corner Garrigue

35 Chef Profile Louise Briskie-de Beer, Cafe Savour

38 Trending Notes on the Vermouthaissance

43 Gluggy Tomato, Tomahto; Rosé, Rosado

48 Banville & Jones Food & Wine Events

50 Banville & Jones Wine Institute

58 Sidebar Class on Glass

59 Culinary Partners

60 Shopping List

62 Top Picks

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contents

Publisher and Editorial DirectorLisa Muirhead

[email protected]

Graphic DesignShane Garrett

www.STG54.com

Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro

[email protected]

ContributorsTina Jones, Todd Antonation, Pauline Boldt, Andrea Eby,

Mathilde Decolais, Gary Hewitt, Jennifer Hiebert, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Rebecca Lechman, Ian McCausland, Jay Mitchosky, Tracy McCourt,

Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel, Renée Vincent, Sarah Zaharia

Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc.

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Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and

lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private

function room.

Banville & Jones Wine Co.1616 St Mary’s Rd.

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Cellar Doorthe

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a messagefrom tina jones

Tina Jones

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tina’s faves

Rosé wines There is something wonderful about this sometimes simple yet complex, very food-friendly wine.Think summer and “chilled red wine”!

Les-Baux-en-PRovence This town’s blend of beautiful markets, lovely shops, and sophisticated and charming people make this a southern France gold star stop.

FResh eveRything Whether it’s fresh-caught fish, market-fresh fruit and vegetables, or fresh young wines, southern France has it all!

I have to admit that when our team began to talk about an issue of The Cellar Door devoted to the south of France, all I could think about was Provence! When I travelled there a few years ago, I was captivated by the contrast between the elegant seaside and the rugged interior. I enjoyed wandering in the abundance of beautiful markets and revelled in the seafood that dominated the cuisine. And, of course, I loved the Provence rosé wines that graced the tables wherever we went!

But the rest of the south? As we talked about it, I realized that the whole south—from the Spanish border on one side to the Italian border on the other—is a gem to be discovered. From Languedoc-Roussillon through Provence, these regions pro-duce some of the most interesting, and best value, wines in the country. To visit there means to be immersed in a very special environment.

We have a feast of information for you in this issue. Our travel feature explores some of the best of the regions; Gary Hewitt delves into the notion of garrigue and the unique aromas of wines from the south; Tracy McCourt focuses on the diversity of the south; and Sylvia Jansen catches up with famous American wine importer Kermit Lynch, who was captivated by the south on his first visit there. Join me for a tour of sunny south of France.

Cheers,


I was looking for a bottle of Champagne to celebrate a friend’s new house, and saw some sparkling wines that I hadn’t heard of before (Cava, Prosecco, Moscato) that are really reasonably priced. What is the difference between those wines and Champagne—and am I being cheap if I buy one of those instead of Champagne for a celebration?

—Rudy Gilthorpe

Dear Rudy,

You certainly are not being cheap if you do not buy true Champagne. Champagne is a sparkling wine that must meet these qualifications: it is produced from specific grape varieties (the most prominent being Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier); the grapes are grown only in the region of Champagne in northern France; and they employ a specific method of production. In the traditional Champagne method, a second fermentation occurs in the bottle that produces the carbonation.

The region is small, the process is long, and the rules are strict—but the result is the glorious bubbly elixir known as Champagne. Prices can range from approximately $45 to… the moon! If this too steep for your budget, there

is a whole other sparkling world to explore!

Cava is a lovely white or rosé sparkling wine most commonly made from a blend of Macabeu, Xarello, and Parellada grapes from the Penedes region of Catalonia, Spain. It is also made using the traditional method. Prices range from $13 to $30. I suggest Parés Baltà Organic Cava ($19.99) for a nice gift for your next celebration.

Prosecco is another style of delightful white sparkling wine that is produced

from the Glera grape in the Veneto region of northern Italy. The name “Prosecco” actually refers to the village where the wine originated. For Prosecco, the second fermentation is produced in a large stainless steel tank before bottling. Prices range from $13 to $30. Il Faggeto Valdobbiadene Prosecco ($19.99) is a nice mid-priced option.

Moscato, although not always “frizzante” (sparkling), is often known for its gorgeous aromas of peach, apricot, and honeysuckle and a touch of sweetness. Produced from the Moscato grape variety (commonly known as Moscatel or Zibibbo), it can also be made in a dry style and is produced in many parts of the world. Prices range from $10 to $40. I recommend Zonin Primo Amore for a sweeter Moscato ($18.99).

—Jill Kwiatkoski

What region would you say has the best value wines in the $10 to $20 range right now?

—Trevor Wellington

As this issue will show, the south of France is one region with incredible value wines—but there are also many other places to explore.

Regions that have long been dismissed as “bulk” production areas are seeing some passionate people making wines at very low cost. Look no further than Spain and Portugal to find modern wines from local grape varieties that are great every-day drinkers. South Africa is also making some absolutely stunning wines that really over-deliver for the money. Gems from the Swartland and Stellenbosch are some of my favourites, with wines based in Syrah and Grenache.

For this summer season, my go-to value red wines are: Bodegas Torre San Milan Gorrebusto Tempranillo (Spain, $12.99), Bacalhôa Serras de Azeitão Red (Portugal, $13.99), and A. A. Badenhorst Secateurs Red Blend

(South Africa, $18.99). For white, I highly recommend the Bodegas Pascual Heredade Peñalosa Verdejo (Spain, 16.99)

—Mike Muirhead

Why do some red wines make me stuffed up, plugged, and congested after just a glass, while others do not? Do I have to break up with red wine for good?

—Jill Fischer

Dear Jill,

Fear not my friend. I don’t see a break up in your future. An intolerance to one of four culprits is commonly the source of a stuffy nose when drinking red: alcohol, sulphites, histamines, or tannins. Given that you only get stuffy from some red wines, I would eliminate alcohol and sulphites as likely causes. Histamines found in wine could be the cause; however, they are also found in chocolate and cheese, so unless you react to those, the guilty party is probably tannins.

Tannins are the component in red wine that causes that mouth-puckering effect. They exist in the skin of the grapes. Try this little experiment to confirm my suspicions: For the next little while, try drinking reds made from grapes with thinner skins, as they contain less tannins. You should focus on Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Barbera and Dolcetto. Avoid grapes like Cabernet, Shiraz, and Nebbiolo. If the stuffy nose goes away, mystery solved and your love affair with red wine can go on! If it continues, a visit to your allergist might be in order!

—Saralyn Mehta

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iF you have a question FoR ouR sommeLieRs, emaiL us at [email protected], oR Find us on FaceBook and twitteR @BanviLLejones

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Friends of Banville & jones: 1. Laura Catena of Bodega Catena Zapata with Saralyn Mehta in Argentina; 2. Pauline Lomax and Tina Jones at Pauline’s retirement celebration; 3. Mara Feeny of DAMAS Vineyards, Fiddletown, California and Gary Hewitt; 4. Champagne and Croquet in the Napa Valley: Dean and Tracey Cort, Laura and Jon Fenton, Nestor Theodorou and Joan Badger, Renee Sanguin and Scott Stirton, Mike and Tina Jones; 5. Régis Valentin of Château de Lancyre in Pic Saint Loup, France; 6. Laurent Miquel and Neasa Corish Miquel among the vineyards, Cazal Viel, France; 7. Tolaini Estates hosts the friends of Gold Medal Plates.

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2Wishing our long-time business controller Pauline Lomax all the best in her retirement!

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8. Andrea Eby, Jill Kwiatkoski, Jack Palmer, Saralyn Mehta, and Tracy McCourt; 9. Mike Muirhead, Brian “Prof” and Ros Lynn from Majella Wines, Australia, and Tina Jones; 10. Jill Kwiatkoski, Shirley Martens of Blend Imports Inc, Carla Kretzel from Lammershoek Wines, South Africa, and Paul Martens of Blend Imports Inc; 11. Dr. Anne Katz, Carla Kretzel, Rick Watkins, and Dr. Alan Katz at the Lammershoek wine tasting; 12. Garry Hewitt, Christopher Sprague of 529 Wellington, Simon and Rémi Rollin of Domaine Rollin Père et Fils (Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy), and Sylvia Jansen at Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne. 13. Charles Baker of Stratus Vineyards with Tina Jones; 14. Laurent Miquel and Neasa Corish Miquel of Laurent Miquel wines with Gary Hewitt at Vinisud Trade Show, Montpellier, France;


behind the label: laurent miquelBy Mike Muirhead, sommelier (isG, CMs)

When we first opened Banville & Jones, we knew that the south of France was producing some of the most creative wines in a place previously known for bulk production—it was just a matter of looking. We were lucky to partner with Laurent Miquel, and they remain one of the region’s most innovative winemakers.

The Miquel family has been in Cazal Viel since 1791. Laurent is the eighth generation to tend the grapes on the estate, but not before studying abroad at Leeds. According to Laurent’s wife and business partner, Neasa, Laurent always had winemaking in the back of his mind: “As the company grew, his father Henri was keen for Laurent to return and participate in the exciting developments at the winery and in the Languedoc in general.”

In 1996, Laurent returned to the family estate and started making his own wines, as well as participating in the production of the estate wines with his family. In 2002, Banville & Jones was ecstatic to bring his wines to the Manitoba market. The winery specializes in Syrah and Viognier, and their passion and diligence in the vineyards really make these difficult grapes perform. Laurent plants his vineyards in a north-south orientation (as memorialized in their Nord Sud line of wines), a technique not normally used in the region. This technique means that the grapes are spared the intense heat of the midday sun in the shade of the canopy, allowing them to maintain their fresh quality and produce a balanced wine.

Laurent has a very specific philosophy for cultivating Viognier—a grape variety that can be overripe and flabby if it is not handled by someone with a lot of experience: “We plant in AOC [French designation of Appelation d’Origin Contollee] limestone soils, so we naturally have

low yields. This ensures that the true character of Viognier is preserved. We handle the grapes very gently, harvesting at nighttime to ensure they are picked at optimum quality. We also press them very gently, with no maceration on the skins so the wine is a result of the purest, most elegant juice we can create. Any oak treatment is done with a light hand and is respectful of the fruit character. It serves to enhance the structure of the wine without masking any of its inherent aromatics. I am passionate about creating wines with finesse.”

If you ask what is in store for the Laurent Miquel family wines, you will hear the excitement in Laurent’s voice as he describes his forays into more challenging grape varieties. Currently experimenting with Albariño plantations in Lagrasse, the results have been fascinating: “Witnessing such wonderful growth from a new vineyard with an unproven grape variety in the heart of the wildly beautiful yet hostile Corbières feels like such a privilege. I like excitement in a project, and I hope we never stop taking risks with what we do. I think the energy we create is palpable when you taste our wines.”

In addition to his exploration of Albariño, as of March 2014 Laurent Miquel also acquired some Pinot Noir vineyards: “Another risky choice, but we think we can create a supremely elegant red in Lagrasse also, and we plan to have fun trying!”

This constant striving for new and elegant wines lends to the excitement of working with the Miquel family. Along with the wines featured in this article, we look forward to trying the new fruit from these vineyards, and will be excited to see what the ninth generation (their son, Sean, was born in 2011) will bring.

Laurent Miquel 2011 Père et fils syrah Grenache iGP

Pays d’Oc, france $17.99

Laurent Miquel 2012 nord sud viognier iGP

Pays d’Oc, france $18.99

Laurent Miquel 2010 nord sud syrah

iGP Pays d’Oc, france $19.99

Laurent Miquel 2007 Bardou saint Chinian

aOC, france $32.99


À chacun son goût: delicious diversity in the south of FranceBy tracy McCourt, sommelier (CaPs)with a note from andrea eby, sommelier (isG), CsW

Nestled on the Mediterranean coast, the south of France is a dream vacation spot and a wine lover’s paradise. With close to 800,000 acres under vine, it is no surprise that this sun-soaked area is responsible for the largest output of wine in France, amounting to almost a quarter of the country’s entire production.

In Languedoc-Roussillon (once two independent regions now linked together) and Provence, a staggering amount of red, white, and rosé wine is produced then sold worldwide at excellent price points. The south of France was at one point known for its large quantities of wine, but once you have tasted the wines, you will be struck by the quality.

Each appellation here is slightly unique—even Languedoc and Roussillon themselves are quite different in character. If you include wines labelled Pays d’Oc IGP—a regional distinction with several grape varieties, and many blending options and winemaking methods—you have a treasure trove of different wines and styles to discover.

Laurent Miquel in Cazal viel, Languedoc, france (courtesy of Laurent Miquel)


ReD

Red wines make up about 80 per cent of the production in Languedoc-Roussillon. Most are rich, full bodied, and blends of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan; however, they can also include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Languedoc is the central region of the south of France, just north of Roussillon and closest to the Rhône Valley. It produces red wines that tend to be spicy and juicy but varied throughout its many appellations. St. Chinian makes fresh, Rhône-inspired blends; Corbières offers up concentrated and slightly spicy reds; in Minervois, we find notes of blackcurrants and violets in blends that include Mourvèdre; and in the commune of Pic St. Loup the beautifully balanced terroir-driven reds have hints of lavender, rosemary, and thyme (see Gary’s Corner for a discussion on this garrigue aroma profile on page 30). Roussillon is closer to the Spanish border, and the wines here tend to have a ripe and roasted character to them.

Exclusive to Banville & Jones: Domaine La Croix d’Aline 2011 Syrah/Grenache Saint Chinian AOC $16.99

White

White wines from Languedoc-Roussillon make up less of the region’s volume, but they are huge in impact and value. The region produces fantastic single varietal wines and blends made from Rhône favourites Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne, but it is the region’s oldest grapes that are often worth seeking out. Bourboulenc is known for its good acidity and smoky-citrus qualities; and Clariette Blanche oxidizes easily, making it great for vermouth. Picpoul de Pinet AOC, a rising star on the Banville & Jones shelves, produces wonderful and refreshing wines with zesty lime notes that are available for a steal and make phenomenal food pairings.

Exclusive to Banville & Jones: Domaine Féline Jourdan 2012 Picpoule de Pinet Languedoc AC, France $15.99

Late summer in the vineyards of Laurent Miquel (courtesy of Laurent Miquel)

ROsé

Provence, just east of Languedoc-Roussillon, produces great white and red wine, but it is their dry rosé wines that make people swoon. These wines are made from red grape varieties almost identical to those used in Languedoc, and when finished appear in an array of salmon and red onion hues. The appellation of Bandol is internationally recognized for its stunning Provençal rosés made of at least 50 per cent Mourvèdre. Provençal rosés are refreshing, tantalizingly spicy, delicious on their own, and also versatile with food.

Exclusive to Banville & Jones: Chateau de Berne 2012 Rosé Cinsault/ Grenache Côtes de Provence AOC, France $18.99

sPaRkLinG

Limoux is one of the western-most towns in Languedoc-Roussillon, and it is here that locals claim the first sparkling wines in France were made—predating even Champagne.

The aromatic Mauzac—a white grape locally known as blanquette—is used to make sparkling wine in at least three appellations around Limoux. Wines labelled Blanquette de Limoux AOP have to be at least 90 per cent Mauzac and are made as traditional method sparkling wines. Mauzac sparkling wines are light, bubbly, and refreshing with notes of green apple peel and fresh cut grass.

The oldest way of making sparkling wine in Limoux dates back to 1531 and is known as the méthode ancestrale. This production originally differed from traditional method in that the residual yeast and sediment (lees) were left in the bottle, making it cloudy with pronounced yeast notes. Today the lees are removed so the wine is clear, and the style can range from dry to sweet. Blanquette de Limoux méthode ancestrale AOP wines must be made from 100 per cent Mauzac grapes and are characterized by green apple and ripe apricot notes, and fine bubbles.

Exclusive to Banville & Jones:

Maison Vergnes nv Carte Noir Blanquette de Limoux AOC, France $14.99

Maison Vergnes nv Blanquette de Méthode Ancestrale AOC, France $16.99

sunset in the vineyards, Languedoc-Roussillon

a nOte On fORtifieD Wines By Andrea Eby

Before I began my career as a sommelier, I can remember choosing wines by a set of “rules” that I had come to understand as being fundamental to giving the impression that I was a sophisticated wine consumer. One of those arbitrary rules was that sweet wines were the farthest things from fashionable.

However, my years of hard work sampling wines from around the world has convinced me that, far from being passé, sweet wines often represent some of the best value wines in the marketplace today. The Vin Doux Naturels (VDNs) of southern France are no exception. Similar to more familiar wines such as Port, these wines are made through the process of mutage.

Discovered in the early 13th century, mutage was the key to preserving wines in a time when most wines were barely palatable in their youth, let alone after a year or two of aging. Adding high-proof grape spirits to fermenting wines endowed them with special preservative powers. The resulting wines also had higher alcohol content and, most deliciously, the wines were sweet.

Grenache and Muscat are the stars of the VDN show in the areas of Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaults, Rasteau, and Beaumes de Venise. Winemakers produce these wines in an array of styles, including blanc, ambre, tuile, rose, hors d’age, rancid, and rimage. Once wildly popular, fortified wines have largely faded from fashion and the savvy consumer is the beneficiary. Delicious and versatile, VDNs are often the producer’s tête de cuvée (top wine) and can be found at ridiculously low prices when compared to other tête de cuvées on the market. Traditionally served as an aperitif, VDNs also make fabulous partners to desserts and cheeses, as well as being one of the few wines that actually pairs well with chocolate!

Exclusive to Banville & Jones: Château Les Pins 2009 Vin Doux Naturel Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC, France $23.99

It is difficult to encapsulate the diversity and exciting offerings of the south of France in such a small space. For a true tour of the south, come into Banville & Jones and let our wine experts give you a tour through the varied wine personalities we offer on our shelves.


GARRIGuELong ago, southern France was covered with forest. Over time, people cleared the forest for timber and charcoal and to plant crops and graze animals. These activities, plus weathering, depleted topsoil and brought underlying bedrock, mostly granite and limestone, closer to the surface. Small, often isolated, shrub-like oak trees (kermes oaks) became dominant in the driest areas, and the slightly larger holms oak grew in areas with more water. Low opportunistic shrubs such as juniper, thyme, rosemary, sage, and lavender surrounded the trees in discontinuous patches in the drier areas and more densely elsewhere. Aromatic oils produced by the shrubs leached into the soils to inhibit the growth of non-resistant plants to create a patchy, open-spaced character. In this way, humans created the contemporary southern France landscape of scrubland adapted to the dry Mediterranean climate under the intense sun of an azure blue sky.

Garrigue is the common name for this mixed community of plants. The term derives from the old Provençal word garriga, broadly meaning rock. Technically, garrigue refers only to areas growing on limestone, which further selects for calcium-resistant plants and a unique combination of species. For wine lovers this is a fortunate coincidence because

grapevines also thrive in limestone soils, which help preserve the acidity and freshness of wines.

Grapes and garrigue mingle, sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. For a long time, it was thought that tiny droplets of aromatic and flavourful essential oils were simply carried by the wind from the herbs to the grapevines. Recent research into the eucalyptus character of wines in Australia confirmed airborne transmission (essential oil concentrations are higher on vines closer to eucalyptus trees), but also suggested a more complex interaction.

Some of the transferred oils become trapped in the thin, waxy coating on grape berries, so no matter how carefully a winemaker sorts grapes to remove MOG (“material other than grapes”—yes, this is a real winemaking term!) some of the garrigue character carries over into the wine. This occurs especially with red wines because the skins are constantly macerated during fermentation (colour- and tannin-rich skins are kept in contact with the juice). Mechanical harvest, omission of selective sorting (it is expensive!), and inclusion of whole grape bunches during winemaking increase MOG content with the result that oils deposited on other plant surfaces and actual herbal leaf litter are also transferred to wines. The Aussies showed that even a few eucalyptus leaves in a batch of wine impart elevated levels of minty, menthol character.

Some winemakers want garrigue character in their wines, others do not. A low level is obtained by using grapes grown far from patches of scrubland, then harvested and sorted by hand. The converse is true for

strong garrigue character, and some growers even encourage garrigue flora to grow among their vines.

Garrigue is expressed in wine as the complex aromas and flavours of the herbes de Provence of juniper, thyme, rosemary, sage, and lavender. These elements are a flavour bridge that superbly links regional wines and foods. For a couple of pairings, try grilled lamb chops rubbed with rosemary, garlic and olive oil with the herb-scented Château de Lancyre Vieilles Vignes Pic Saint Loup ($25.99); or try cassoulet (traditional bean casserole studded with meats and accented with a garrigue bouquet garni) with the quaffable Château Saint Auriol Corbières ($16.99). Be sure to look for the echo of herbal tastes between food and wine.

Perhaps you care little about how the herbal flavours get into your glass of Côteaux du Languedoc, Minervois, Corbières, Fitou or Côtes-du-Roussillon, but you may care a lot about the actual flavours that serve as an herbal imprint of southern French wines. This garrigue phenomenon, the transfer of environmental elements into wine, remains one of the compelling arguments for the concept of terroir, a belief that place matters in the world of wine.

gary’s cornerBy Gary hewitt, Msc, CWe, sGD, aiWs

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gLoBaL gaRRigueThe garrigue phenomenon is not unique, even within southern France. Although rigorous studies have yet to positively confirm the effect, anecdotal evidence abounds.

• In southern France, maquis refers to denser scrubland on granite soils that give wines with less acidity.

• In South Africa, fynbos scrubland includes buchu, a plant that is thought to impart a strong black currant character.

• In the Douro, Portugal, esteva (rockrose or gum cistus) imbues wines and ports with an evocative, regionally distinct aroma.

• And the list goes on: Australia has mallee; Greece, phrygana; Spain and Chile, matorral; Israel, batha; and California, chaparral.

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We’re going to need more wine!

chef profileLouise Briskie-de Beer cafe savourLouise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer hit the Winnipeg culinary scene with their first restaurant, LuLu’s, in 2006. Since then, they have grown, travelled, and experimented their way to the prix fixe concept at Cafe Savour. Louise and Faiz have travelled extensively, exploring flavours from Australia to Napa, South Africa to New Orleans. Chef Louise brings these international concepts back to Winnipeg and incorporates them into her menu, always with a Manitoba twist.

The secret ingredient in your fridge:Yeast. We make all our own breads and crackers at Cafe Savour, amusing palates with savoury flavours like pumpkin oatmeal with a hint of nutmeg or chickpea and green olive.

Favourite food trend:I hope to see less salt and that deep fryers become a thing of the past! Using less salt and more complex spicing and not having a deep fryer allows us to prepare our dishes in a more satisfying and healthy way.

Signature dish on the Cafe Savour menu:Denningvleis, a slow roast South African-style lamb shank is definitely our best seller. Our Elk Enchiladas, made using house-made tortillas and fresh pico de gallo, runs a close second.

Favourite wine:Touring wineries in Napa and Australia in the last few years has given me an appreciation for the passion and care that goes into making great wine. I usually like strong full-flavoured reds such as Cabernets, but I am often surprised by a new wine Faiz pours for me. He takes me out of my comfort zone. Case in point: the 2011 Ventisquero Grey Label Carménère.

Favourite kitchen gadget: After a tasting spoon, my favourite gadget at home, or in the restaurant as we live above it, is the rolling pin given to me by my Ciocia (Aunt) Emily who lived in western New York State.

Favourite cookbook:I have two. Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book is from my childhood. My Ciocia Anne brought it back from a trip to the U.S. in the early 60s. I think I baked every cookie in it. On our Mississippi trip in 2010, I found a copy in New Orleans. I felt as if I’d won the lottery. The second is Indian Delights, which Faiz’s Mom gave to me our first Christmas together. It is from Durban, South Africa. I learned to spice and season in her kitchen.

Favourite childhood dish:As a child, I treated perogies and watermelon as food groups. We occasionally have a three cheese perogie lasagna as our vegetarian entrée special.

Favourite place to eat on your day off:Sunday is my favourite day off because our children and grandchildren come for a family supper at Cafe Savour. But after visiting International Boulevard in Oakland, and having great memories of the food trucks, I have to say that I really enjoy Beaujena’s Food Truck’s “Death by Bacon” sandwich. It speaks to my roots.

Favourite food travel destination:We have had so many great meals around the world. Cafe Savour is a little bit of all the great restaurants that we have enjoyed, but for one place that showcases both excellence and variety of cuisines, I love Chicago.

elk enchiladas

CornerVine Registries are a convenient way for you to create online gift registries at Banville & Jones for your weddings, birthdays, housewarmings, and fundraisers. From the comfort of your home or the convenience of your mobile device, you can browse the Banville & Jones selection of fine wines, stemware, and accessories, add any item you would like to your registry, decide how many you want, then email a link for your registry to family, friends, guests, or supporters.

Benefits and conveniences of CornerVine Registries:• We would love to help you with your registry if you would like to come to the store and see us, but you don’t need to be in the store to manage your registry or see a running status of what has been purchased.• Any time a purchase is made from your registry, your registry counters are automatically updated for others to see.• After paying online, purchasers can pick up their gift, have it delivered, or choose to leave the gift in the store to be delivered with the rest of the registry after the event.• Gifts can be personalized with multiple gift wrap and card options.• Are you helping to plan other events, fundraisers, or surprise parties? You can have as many active registries as you want at any given time.

To create a CornerVine Registry:1. Go to http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com2. Login to your account (or create an account if you don't already have one)3. Click the "My Registries" link in the left-hand column in the desktop version, or from the Menu button in the mobile version4. Click "Add Registry"

The Next Steps:• Name your registry• Create open and close dates for your registry• Choose storage service* or regular delivery• Add your registry and start shopping!

*Banville & Jones Wine Co. provides a storage service for gift registry purchases made online. If you turn this feature on, buyers can buy for your gift registry online, but don’t need to pick up your gift or have it delivered. Banville & Jones Wine Co. will store all purchases made for your gift registry and make arrangements for you to receive your gifts after your gift registry closes.

GIFT REGISTRY NOW ONLINE!

Celebrated in 11 cities across Canada in 2014, Gold Medal Plates features superb wines and premier chefs competing in their cities for gold, silver and bronze placement. Winners in each region travel to compete at the national level.

Founded in 2004, the goal of Gold Medal Plates is to raise substantial funds for Canada’s high performance athletes. Since its inception, this event has received tremendous support and accolades across Canada, and generated a combined net total of over $8 million for Canada’s Olympic athletes!

Turn your COLLECTION into a DONATION!

The Rare Wine Auction is a significant fundraiser for Gold Medal Plates. If you have purchased wines that you no longer love or if you have wines that have increased in value and are now too good to drink, simply:

• Donate your wine to the Gold Medal Plates Wine Auction

• Receive a tax receipt for the full market value of the wine

The wines will be auctioned off at events across the country. Join in the fun as both connoisseurs and enthusiasts participate as purchasers and donors of highly sought-after vintages. You never know what you will find!

If you have wines that you would be interested in donating please contact Lisa Heimbecker, Gold Medal Plates Chair, at [email protected]


Walk into a bar in Winnipeg and ask for a “Vermouth neat, please.” If your barkeep seems puzzled, requesting it on the rocks probably won’t quell the confusion. “That’d be disgusting” and “Are you sure?” were two of the more courteous responses I received during a recent vermouth-hunting bar hop around town. “Red or white?” was music to my ears, but “This bottle’s been open a long time” was a standard refrain. We are not, it seems, a city of vermouth drinkers.

And we aren’t alone. The Canadian palate has never been overly fond of vermut, so-named because wormwood was traditionally the drink’s featured botanical. Yes, it might be in your martini, but a mere rinse of the glass is quite common; the flourish of the bartender’s hand that sends the wine splashing to the floor is a calming presence to those for whom “too much vermouth” is any at all.

But let’s just be clear about something, dear readers: vermouth is wine. It is flavoured, fortified wine. It is wine that has been tampered with, sure. But given that wine is simply grapes that have been tampered with, why are the vermouth-hating vinophiles so quick to erroneously dismiss it as “just an aperitif” (it isn’t), or worse, a “cocktail sweetener” (when it is often quite dry)?

Part of the problem, certainly, is the supply side of the equation: too few are available in our market, and certainly too few of any quality to warrant serious, thoughtful sipping. But thankfully, demand is growing, and a vermouthaissance is underway.

In the Old World, fer vermut (“doing vermouth”) has re-emerged as a pre-lunch ritual, with young Barcelonans

eager to imitate and re-invent their grandparents’ culture of eat and drink. A few ice cubes, a peel of citrus, and perhaps a bit of soda are all the Catalan need to enjoy their vermut, paired, of course, with a few crunchy olives and a slab of cured pork.

In America, a craft vermouth movement is in its infancy, given life by the hyper-local sensibilities of foodies in cities like Portland and Boston, the ingenuity of boutique winemakers in little-known viticultural areas, and the obsessively retro throwback gaze of aspiring mixologists.

I imagine it started something like this: A hipster barfly said, “Hey dude, can you whip up an old-school martini, like pre-Prohibition-era?” The mixologist said, “Sure, dude,” and proceeded to Google things like “Prohibition” and “old school martinis.” The quest for historically accurate cocktails, ever-bedeviled by recipe revisions and trade secrets, sent the mixologist rifling through his grandpa’s dusty old liquor cabinet, which was full of vermouth. When the mixologist asked the winemaker about it, the winemaker replied, “Dude, I don’t do vermouth.” But the mixologist was persistent, so the winemaker threw some roots and barks into a batch of Pinot Gris and added “master herbalist” to his business card.

And so here we are, in the throes of a vermouth revival that is, with a little help from Banville & Jones Wine Co., slowly making its way north to our fair city.

notes on the vermouthaissance

trending By Rob stansel, sommelier (CaPs)

adventuRes in veRmouth

What can you expect to taste in a good vermouth? Many, many things, in fact: everything from citrus peel and ginger to chamomile and juniper. The process of steeping the botanicals is a kind of magic, and vermouth-makers tend to guard their recipes jealously. If you can imagine a shot of premium gin falling into a glass of light south of France white wine, you are on the right track.

We are proud to offer five vermouths exclusive to Banville & Jones

FRom sPain: Sanviver Vermouth Zarro Blanco (1000 ml for $11.99) Sanviver Vermouth Zarro Rojo (1000ml for $11.99)

FRom FRance: Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Blanc Chambery, France ($18.99) Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Rouge Chambery, France ($18.99) Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Dry Chambery, France ($18.99)


Interview by Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

six questions for kermit lynch

Over the course of a career that has already spanned more than 40 years, Kermit Lynch has profoundly influenced the North American wine scene. Lynch began by opening a small store in Berkeley, California, with the aim of bringing authentic, terroir-driven European wines to North America. Since that time, he has built a business that imports, distributes, and successfully sells French and Italian wines—Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants. Lynch is also the author of several books on wine (Adventures on the Wine Route, Inspiring Thirst, and 25th Anniversary Edition: Adventures on the Wine Route). Through his work, he has helped to create the current interest for artisanal wines made with respect for the land and the natural balance of the vine and fruit.

Kermit Lynch has won two James Beard awards and has been knighted by the French government with the prestigious Legion of Honor. He and his wife now divide their time between Provence, France, and Berkeley, California. Sylvia Jansen caught up with him for this exchange.

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1Sylvia Jansen (SJ) You have introduced many beautiful, authentic wines from the south of France to the North American market. In fact, you have chosen the south as your home for part of the year. What is special to you about this corner of the wine world?

Kermit Lynch (KL) I fell for Provence before I opened my wine shop. I was driving from Spain to Austria and needed a hotel late one night. I saw a sign for Cassis and took it, found a room, and woke up the next morning to incredible beauty. Love at first sight. I stayed for a week. Then I began visiting in order to find wines, but always took a few days off to jump into the Mediterranean. Every time I drove away, I’d find myself tearing up. It’s the landscape, the sky, the ocean, the spirit, the lifestyle. I learned to take naps in Provence, where businesses close for three to four hours each day for “lunchtime.” Top that. Not only that, they drink wine with lunch. What’s not to like?

SJ The south seems to have more than its share of investors, producers, and winemakers from other parts of France and the world. What is happening?

KL Strange, I’m not too worried about the south, although the Russians are buying a lot on the Riviera. I’m much more worried about Burgundy right now. The rich are buying Grand Crus for playthings. What’s a few million when you’re making billions? Clos de Lambray was just sold, a Grand Cru in Morey St. Denis. Sold to the same billionaire who owns Yquem and Cheval Blanc and Krug. If this continues, great Burgundy will be in the hands of hired winemakers instead of families, instead of vignerons. We are going back to feudal times.

SJ What are the most interesting trends in the south of France right now? Are we seeing a shift away from “cute label” wines? A shift away from big alcohol wines?

KL Big alcohol comes from climate change, and it is not easy to control. The grapes ripen and over-ripen before you can get them into the winery. With so much sucrosity, it is becoming difficult to make unsulphured, unfiltered wines. French winemakers, in the old days, would die to get the sugars we see today. They wanted all they could get before the rains arrived. Now they’re harvesting in late August instead of October.

SJ With few exceptions, the south of France is a region of wine blends, and small appellations. Many wine lovers find both the geography and the labelling a bit challenging. Can you offer some advice?

KL I tried to tackle this question in the Rhône section of my book, Adventures On The Wine Route. I’d say taste and read and don’t get hung up on grape varieties and specifics about blends. Get some pals together once in a while and taste a coherent group of Rhône wines. Don’t taste blind and don’t vote on a winner. Keep an open mind. Don’t try to find your favourite style. Taste Roussillon, Languedoc, Provence, southern and northern Rhône and see if you can define differences. It will start coming into focus.

SJ You have expressed some strong opinions about wine-scoring point systems. In your book Adventures on the Wine Route you emphasize that “A wine can only be judged as it relates to the environment in which it is served.” How does this relate to France in particular?

KL When I dine, I think regionally as I select the wine for a meal. And I have a weakness for Mediterranean cuisine whether it is French, Spanish, Italian, Moroccan, etc. That’s why I drink more southern wines than northern, even though I love red Burgundy and Loire wines. I went to an interesting tasting that had different dishes to try with a host of different wines. With an artichoke, everyone voted a big NO to a Château Margaux. The Bandol rosé won easily. That’s an intelligent way to compare wines: how do they interact with different cuisines?

SJ How will the south of France figure in the wine scene in future years?

KL I’m sure that wine buyers, as they learn more and more about drinking wine instead of judging it, will realize that big bold Rhône wines are still the go-to wines for certain kinds of food. A Bandol is great with tomato sauce or a garlicky aioli. That is not the moment to open your Romanée Conti. As buyers grow more and more sophisticated about wine and food pairings, they’ll see that the south of France has an enormous variety of wines that go perfectly with certain dishes, that go better with certain dishes.

Cazal viel in Languedoc, france (courtesy of Laurent Miquel)


Ahhhh, rosé! The first thing that comes to my mind is beautiful Provence rosé from southern France. Perfect for sipping along the seaside, while lunching at that gorgeous little café with the mouth-watering French cuisine and incredibly stunning views of the region. You just cannot help but inhale every sight, smell, and taste. You cannot beat that moment when the gorgeously refreshing, rose-coloured wine rushes over your palate and you swear you hear angels sing. It is that moment you realize the beauty of it all—and it occurs to you that you could sip rosé for a lifetime!

Even though that café in Provence is a few thousand kilometres away, the rosé sure isn’t! With an abundance of rosés at your fingertips, now is the perfect time to join the growing ranks of those exploring dry rosés. Beautiful dry rosé is produced from red grape varieties such as Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, and Cabernet. Unlike red wine where the juice and skins can be in contact for weeks or even months, the grape juice and skins (which lend the wine its colour) are in contact for only a few hours to a few days. When done right, a beautiful dry rosé has the best of both worlds: the incredible aromas and character of a red, and refreshing and crisp nature of a white. Served chilled, dry rosé is one of the hottest wine trends of the summer.

Provence produces some remarkable rosés (our newest addition to the Banville & Jones family is Château de Berne Côtes du Provence rosé), as do other regions of France. In the Rhône Valley, the Tavel region produces only rosés. Produced mainly using Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, this region brings vibrant rosés to the world table. The Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine Tavel ($27.99) is vibrantly crimson with aromas of spice, floral, strawberry, and red currant.

France is not the only region known for its rosés; Spanish rosados are also amazing. ¡Olé! A beautiful rosado from Spain is great when paired with the scorching summer

temperatures, delicious spicy cuisine, cured meats, and beautiful seafood. We find some gorgeous gems in the region of Navarra. Just east of neighbouring Rioja, Navarra is Spain’s most famous rosado-producing region. Made typically from Grenache (or Garnacha in Spain), these rosés are vividly pink with gorgeous aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, and cherry that waft through your olfactory system and leave you with a fresh mouthwatering burst of flavour on your palate. One of my personal favourites is from Bodegas Alconde: Lo Nuestro Garnacha Rosado—an absolute steal at $13.99! The bubbly version, Fresco Coleccion Rosado ( $13.99) is also fun to try.

Around the globe, wineries are producing outstanding rosé wines. This style of wine tops the charts for food-friendly versatility, pairing beautifully with everything from meat and fish to soup and nuts. It is the perfect picnic, barbeque, and party wine, with delicate flavours and lighter weights compared to their robust red wine counterparts. It is fun to be experimental with wines—and to introduce your friends to something out of the ordinary!

tomato, tomahto; rosé, rosado

gluggy by Jill kwiatkoski, sommelier (CaPs)

aRound the woRLd with ouR FavouRite RosésaRgentina Pulenta La Flor Malbec rosé ($14.99)

canada Tawse Echoes rosé ($19.99)

united states Mouton Noir Love Drunk rosé ($25.99)

austRaLia Charles Melton Rose of Virginia rosé ($27.99)


dinner in the vineyards with Jean-claude Mas

When Jean-Claude Mas inherited the 86 acres of his family’s south of France estate in 2000, he created Domaine Paul Mas in honour of his father. In his 14-year tenure at the winery, Jean-Claude Mas has grown the Mas estate from its original 35 hectares (ha) dating back to 1892 to a staggering 320 ha. In addition to the family holdings, the winemaker contracts grapes from another 80 growers in Languedoc to make his many impressive wines. Côté Mas Table et Vin is the restaurant at Château Paul Mas. It embodies the luxe rural (rural luxury) philosophy of the wine and lifestyle at Paul Mas. Here, they share two of their most popular dishes with the perfect Paul Mas pairing—along with a classic south of France appetizer!

Winemaker Jean-Claude Mas


Pair your raw oysters with Domaine Paul Mas 2012 Viognier ($16.99) and Claude Val 2013 Blanc ($11.99)

Raw OysteRsIf you are preparing oysters at home, all you need is a tray of ice, an oyster knife, fresh lemons, and some Tabasco (if you’re feeling spicy). To prepare the oysters, scrub the shell with a stiff brush to remove any dirt. Use a folded dish towel in your hand to cradle the shell and protect your hand. Set the shell in your hand with the hinge facing you, and keep a small bowl handy to catch the juices. Insert the tip of the knife into the hinge and twist it back and forth to pry open the shell. Cut the muscle away from the lid, peel the lid back and discard. Place the oyster on the half shell on the bed of ice, returning any juices that you caught during the shucking.

Pair the tuna tataki with Domaine Paul Mas 2012 La Forge estate Reserve Marsanne ($16.99) and Côté Mas 2013 aurore Rosé ($11.99)

tuna tatakI anD CuCuMBeR sPaghettI wIth wasaBI FOaMServes 10

For this dish, prepare the tuna in the morning—if you can let it marinate in the herbs for 8 hours, you will be delighted by the results! The foam, Yuzu jelly, and cucumber spaghetti need about 45 minutes of chilling time.

The Tataki

6 long cucumbers200 ml olive oil2 kg tuna fillet20 ml chives (plus some for a garnish)20 ml basil20 ml chervil20 ml flat leafed parsley20 ml dill

Peel the cucumbers and cut into thin length-wise strips with a mandolin. Take care to turn the cucumber before you get to the seeds and do all 4 sides. Don’t cut the seeds. In a salad bowl, lightly salt the cucumber strips, toss, and marinate for 30 minutes or so. Then, gently squeeze the strips with your hands to remove the water before dressing with 40 ml olive oil.

Chop the herbs very finely and mix with the olive oil. Our chef likes to use the aromatic olive oil from the Mas des Tannes estate just next to the restaurant. Cut tuna along the length of the fillet to get 10 pieces of the same size, 20 cm long, 8 cm wide and 4 cm thick. Season with salt and white pepper. Heat olive oil in a pan. Sear the 10 pieces of tuna on each side and then chill them immediately. Cover pieces entirely with the herb purée and leave in the fridge for 8 hours.

The Wasabi Foam

500ml cream5 ml salt20 ml Wasabi paste

Chill a stainless steel mixing bowl and metal beaters from a hand mixer in the freezer for 30 minutes before you prepare this dish. Mix the cream, salt and wasabi with the chilled hand mixer. Wait for the salt to dissolve then refrigerate.

Yuzu Jelly

60 ml Yuzu (an Asian citrus fruit)100ml soy sauce250 ml, water, plus 80 ml water8 ml gelatine in sheets5 ml dashi (fish stock)

In a bowl, dissolve the gelatin sheets one by one in 250 ml iced water. In a sauce pan, add the rest of the ingredients, including the 80 ml water and heat to boiling, then add the gelatin. Chill.

To Serve:

Arrange a portion of the cucumber strips on the plate by twirling them as though you would spaghetti around a fork. Dallop three dots of Wasabi foam on top. Cut each piece of tuna into slices 8 mm thick and arrange them to the side of the cucumber. Trace a line on the tuna with the yuzu jelly and top with chives cut at an angle.

Pair your lamb with Domaine astruc 2012 da Reserve Cabernet sauvignon ($19.99) and Domaine Paul Mas 2012 Vignes de nicole Cabernet sauvignon/Merlot ($18.99)

RaCk OF LaMB Serves 4

Ask your local butcher to “French” the rack of lamb—this involves trimming the meat and fat from between the bones. Ask the butcher to reserve the trimmings to use in your sauce. As a side dish, you can roast carrots, snow peas and green beans in the juices from the lamb. The sauce should be started in advance of serving, as it takes three hours to reduce to a fine, rich sauce.

The Sauce Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roast the meat trimmings in a pan until browned. Remove the meat and the excess fat from the pan. In a saucepan, combine the carrot, onion, and bouquet garni. Add the meat trimmings, cover with water (or chicken stock). Simmer for 3 hours and then strain out the solids using a fine mesh sieve. Refrigerate. Once cooled, skim the solid fat off the top of the sauce. Reheat the sauce and reduce until thickened.

The LambPreheat oven to 400°F. Tie up each rack of lamb with butcher string. Brush the lamb with olive oil and season with garlic, salt, and pepper. Roast for 7 minutes until medium rare. Reserve lamb juices for roasting vegetables. Heat olive oil in a pan and add herbs and salt. Add just enough chicken broth to cover the herbs. Simmer for 10 minutes on low heat. Cool and purée the herb mixture. Spread over roasted lamb.

Lamb trimmings from the butcher2 onion, diced2 carrots, sliced 1 bouquet garni (one crushed garlic clove, one bay leaf and a few sprigs each of thyme and rosemary)4 four-point racks of lamb 4 cloves of minced garlic 30 ml olive oil80 ml chives 80 ml fresh coriander 80 ml parsley 80 ml chervil Chicken stock

the vineyards at Paul Mas


Wine & food evenings Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.

Cost: $79.99 per person

Friday, June 13: Amici

Friday, July 11: Chef of the Hour Rob Thomas

Friday, July 25: Dining with 295 York

Thursday, August 14: North to South Italy with Amici

Friday, August 22: Sweet & Savory Dessert with Terrace in the Park

Friday, September 12: Rewind Menu from Spuntino

Saturday, September 27: Sommelier for the Night with Pizzeria Gusto

Luxury tastingTaste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures.


Saturday, June 21: Italy vs France

Saturday, September 20: Australia to Spain: Grenache and Everything in Between

Cooking ClassLearn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings.


Thursday, September 25: Hearty Harvest Cooking with Amici

Click on the Taste and Learn tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Food and Wine Events.

To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE

• Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.

wine & food

events schedule

BanviLLe & jones

June thROuGh sePteMBeR 2014

Cellar Doorthe

Reach out to a captive audience committed to luxury, wine, food & travel.

www.poisepublications.com | 204.612.2015

For information about advertising in The Cellar Door, contact Vanessa Shapiro, Advertising Sales Director, [email protected]

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wine institutebanville & jones

summer school This July, dive into the new three-day, intensive Wine Specialist 100 certification class. This condensed time-frame program is designed for wine lovers who cannot attend the traditional nine-week class, for those living outside of Winnipeg, for those who are simply in a hurry, and for those who are able to give up one summer weekend.

The curriculum includes the full WS 100 program including WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits and BJWI basic wine service (see page 51 for a full course description). To accommodate the short time frame, study materials will be available to registrants in advance. Early registration ensures availability of course materials and prepares your mind for study. As a guideline, we recommend 12 hours of home study in addition to the 18+ hours of class time.

Summer course offering: July 11–13, 2014 (Friday to Sunday)

Duration: 3 days, 8:30 am to 4:30 pm (including exam on Sunday)

Cost: $695, plus GST

Fall & WinterDo you like a little time between classes to hardwire your learning? We continue to offer the nine-week Wine Specialist 100 program starting in September, January and April and the Wine Steward 200 program starting in September and ending in February. In the fall, we will announce dates for the next BJWI Professional Sommelier Program—CAPS Certified.

PROGRAMS FOR EVERYONE ESSENtiAlS OF WiNE lEVEl i

Essentials of Wine Level I may be your first stop on the road to wine expertise. Over two evenings, students are guided through wine styles, grape varieties, and wine making; the basics of wine tasting; food and wine pairing; how quality affects price; and more. Classes are held from 7:00 to 9:00 PM in the Tuscan Room at Banville & Jones.

Course offerings: October 1 & 8 (Wednesdays)

Cost: $79.99, plus GST

ESSENtiAlS OF WiNE WORkShOPS

Essentials of Wine Workshops build on Essentials of Wine Level I, which are a recommended but not required prerequisite. These workshops range from regional tastings to food and wine pairings, and everything in between. Whether you are a beginner, a past Wine Basics student thirsty for more, or a food and wine professional wishing to refresh your knowledge, these workshops are for you. Tailor your wine education to your own interests by attending the Essentials of Wine Workshops that best suit you.

Classes are held on Wednesdays from 7:00 to 9:00 PM in the Tuscan Room at Banville & Jones. Prices are per person and do not include GST.

Workshop offerings:

June 4: All that Sparkles: Bubbly from Around the World – $45

July 9: War of the Rosés: Rosés from Around the World – $45

July 23: Pairing Wine with Spicy Food – $50

August 6: POP UP Pairing (The chef presents the menu and guests select wines under the direction of the instructor.) – $65

August 20: White Wine of Italy, Spain and Portugal – $45

September 3: The Blending Lab: Understanding the Art of Blending (hands on) – $50

September 17: The Science Behind Food & Wine Pairing – $65

Beginner Intermediate Advanced


what to watch FoRNew this winter, we will offer the WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits, a specialized program covering spirit types, production methods, tasting evaluation, major brands, and end-use in the market. Check this space in the fall issue for further details!

BJWI instructors are also busy at Red River College, where wine instruction is a component of the programs in the School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts.

cERtiFication PRogRaMs

Wine Specialist 100 (No prerequisite: acceptance on a first-come basis)

WS 100 is an entry-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes basic instruction in restaurant wine service. Topics include the WSET® Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting; significant grape varieties; factors that influence wine styles; major wine regions; sparkling, sweet and fortified wines; spirits; food with wine matching; and basic wine service. WS 100 is the first of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Students who pass the WSET exam will receive the WSET® Level 2 Award in Wine & Spirits, and those who also pass the service evaluation will receive the BJWI Wine Specialist 100 Certificate.

Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 9th week.

Course offerings: Starting September 16, 2014 (Tuesdays) and starting January 6, 2015 (Tuesdays)

Cost: $695 plus GST

Wine Steward 200 (Prerequisites: WS 100; WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits; ISG 1: acceptance on a first-come basis)

WS 200 is an advanced-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes an introduction to beer and intermediate instruction in restaurant wine service. WSET® Level 3 builds on the topics of WSET® Level 2 to create a greater depth of knowledge and experience. WS 200 is the second of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program.

Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 18 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm

Course offering: Starting September 15, 2014 (Mondays)

Cost: $1,295 plus GST

BJWI Professional Sommelier Program—CAPS Certified (Prerequisites: WS 200; or WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits; or ISG 2: acceptance based on individual applications)

The PSP is an in-depth, rigorous, and challenging program recognized by CAPS (Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers), a nation member of the internationally respected ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale). The program involves intensive study and includes tutored tastings of more than 350 wines, spirits and specialty beverages. For more information, please contact Banville & Jones Wine Institute or visit our website for updates!

Course offering: Next dates TBA


the banquet of the south of FranceWhen the Romans first pushed ashore in southern Languedoc, they would have met with sandy beaches, and beyond, sunny hills with stony soils for their grape vines. When they marched overland across the Alps into what is now Provence, the Romans saw fields of lavender, crystal blue sea, and almost year-round sunshine. It is no wonder they decided to take over.

The sweeping arch of the south of France that stretches some 500 kilometres over the top of the Mediterranean Sea offers an amazing array of experiences to the visitor. Since the time of the Romans, the south has been a destination for conquerors, travellers, pilgrims, sun-worshippers, starving artists, and ultra-rich gourmands.

For many travellers, the south of France is synonymous with the beaches of the Côte d’Azur—the sunny beaches and star-gazing allure of Nice and what became known in English as the French Riviera. The beaches are one good reason for visiting the south, to be sure: the Côte d’Azur holds an engaging, stylish charm. But in our travels we have found at least five good reasons to visit the south: the beaches, the markets, the food, the architecture, and, of course, the wine.

By sylvia Jansen, sommelier, (isG, CMs), CsW

Prominade des anglais in nice, france


BEACHESThe beaches of Nice stretch along the Promenade des Anglais (“walkway of the English”), named for the 18th-century English aristocrats who began the centuries-long parade to the destination. An easy walk from the city’s downtown restaurants and shops, the promenade looks out onto the sea and invites guests to stay all day and evening. “In Nice you can smell the salty air during the day, and the fantastic seafood at night,” says Tina Jones. “The beaches are busy, but relaxed and elegant.” There is a beach for every taste: pebbly, rocky, sporty, and ritzy. You can find yourself a spot on a public beach or splurge the €20 for a chaise on a private beach. Late at night, the restaurants along the water are buzzing with guests enjoying the day’s catch and a glass of beautiful Provence rosé wine.

MARKETSIn France, the first peaches and cherries of the season are from Languedoc; stunning fields of lavender grace the landscape in Provence in late summer; herbs grow wild in the ditches and freely in gardens. “The south is all about abundance,” says Tina. “I found myself standing in a market in Les-Baux-de-Provence, with the urge to buy scads of flowers, just for my hotel room!” These year-round markets offer what is fresh and authentic, and they offer the best of the season. The tourist is a welcome guest, but it is important to respect the local traditions: wait your turn; ask for what you would like (no reaching); and remember your manners.

evening falls on Menton, in the Côte d’azur in southern france.

evening falls on menton, in the côte d'azur in southern France.

Fresh fruit and vegetables abound in open-air markets that dot the south of France (photo by Carol Fletcher)

ARCHITECTuREThe south is adorned with the stunning landmarks of its past. Roman amphitheatres dominate the city centres of Arles and Nimes, recalling a spectacular history and used today for concerts, events, and bullfights. A short drive from the city will bring you to the Pont du Gard, the towering stone Roman aqueduct bridge that carried water from the spring at Uzès to the city of Nimes.

In southwest Languedoc-Roussillon you can experience the medieval fortified town Carcassonne. Like the Roman amphitheatres in Arles and the Pont du Gard,

Carcassonne is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The fortifications are the result of more than 2,000 years of construction, development, then decay and neglect, and finally, restoration in the 19th century. Turrets and ramparts enable the visitor to scan the panorama of towns and vineyards in the distance; at ground level, the narrow stone walkways, streets, and alleys can give an eerie sense of the past, and yet the restaurants and shops are decidedly modern.

FooD“Try Compte Roger,” was the restaurant suggestion from our friends at a nearby winery. The restaurant inside the fortified walls of Carcassonne was a good choice, offering artistic twists on regional specialties such as cassoulet (the bean-and-meat stew that has satisfied peasants in the Languedoc for centuries) and goat cheese salad with drops of flavourful vinaigrette on the plate. When we asked for a table for the next evening, the chef himself came out to chat about the possibility of a vegetarian menu. The next evening’s meal was fresh from the market and freshly made: delicate celery mousse; an upscale stack of ratatouille; a creamy egg dish topped with roasted tomato coulis; and desserts that were refreshing without being overwhelming.

The guests at the table nearby were clearly from Carcassonne and knew the servers. At one point in the meal, they asked their waiter, “Pourquoi prennent-elles des photos?” [“Why are they taking pictures of their food?”] “Alors, elles sont canadiennes,” was the reply. [“They are Canadian.”] They nodded their heads knowingly.

on touRThe south of France is thick with wineries, cooperatives, and wine towns. A visit to a producer in the south offers an authentic take on the wine scene, and a wonderful way to spend a morning or afternoon.

smaRt wine touRing

1. Select one winery (or two at most) to visit, near your destination. Ask for advice at Banville & Jones for a recommendation of a producer, or make an appointment based on your own preferences.

2. Honour the time once you have established it—not every winery has “hosting” staff, and someone will likely be taking time out of their day to meet with you.

3. use a GPS or a good map, and add extra time for the inevitable turn down the wrong road.

4. It is quite acceptable to spit, especially if you are the driver!

5. It is always a nice gesture to buy a bottle or two (or more) at the end of your visit.

WINEFrom light, airy sparkling wines to full-bodied red blends—and everything in between—the south offers a staggering selection of wine from its own backyard. A guest can enjoy a modern-style white Picpoul de Pinet near Sète, not far from where the Romans landed; delicious sparkling Blanquette de Limoux, produced near ancient Carcassonne; a spicy red Pic St. Loup, grown nearby Montpellier; and for a perfect pairing with the fresh seafood in Nice, a local rosé. (For a grand survey of the diverse wine styles of southern France, see page 25.)

The greatest challenge of visiting the south is immersing oneself in the abundance without becoming overwhelmed in the process. Thankfully, it is a happy challenge.

the Château de Lancyre vineyards at Pic saint Loup (courtesy of Château de Lancyre)


A couple of years ago, in a hotel restaurant in Priorat, Spain, I ordered a bottle of the “feature wine” for the sum of €€5 a bottle—about $7.50. Our server (the hotel owner) brought the bottle and two jar-like tumblers, opened the wine, set the bottle down, and walked away. He repeated this procedure for anyone ordering the same wine, which that evening was about half the restaurant. We drank our wine out of the tumblers.

The next evening, our dinner party included a winemaker I had met with during the day, and we all agreed to buy a wine that was quite a bit more special. This time, the same hotel owner brought large-bowl, stemmed crystal wine glasses; he returned with the bottle, opened it with great ceremony, and offered a taste. The wine sparkled and danced in the crystal bowls, and the aromatics lifted and played as we enjoyed it.

From a distance, these scenes might confirm the assumption that large crystal glasses are just another form of wine snobbery: a congratulatory gesture on the part of restaurant management, full of the pomp and circumstance that accompanies spending more money. But as a consumer and wine lover, I found that there was a lot more going on than just the ceremony.

The wine glass has a lot to do with how we experience the wine. My colleague Christopher Sprague, Sommelier at 529 Wellington in Winnipeg, emphasizes that “the wine glass is the final interpretation of the wine. It has to be chosen carefully.”

We all know that the same dish will be more appetizing when artfully presented, in proportion with the service plate and accompaniments, than if

the pot is shoved onto the table with a large spoon stuck into it. A crystal wine glass (not cut crystal, but rather the kind that can be blown very thin) will show off the sheen and sparkle of a healthy wine; it lets the wine wink and smile, saying “sip me.”

From there, a large bowl with a slightly smaller rim will enhance the aroma of a good wine, lifting it to greater pleasure. A thin (preferably cut, rather than rolled) rim also affects how the wine falls on your palate (front, middle, back—really, this is true), affecting the taste of the wine. Some companies have done a lot of research into these questions and offer a dizzying array of glassware for different styles of wine. For my part, I prefer the simple geometry of the humble egg: the walls should be thin. Slice a little off the bottom, and slice off part of the top, so the glass is taller than it is wide, and the rim narrower than the widest part. Make the white glass smaller so the wine stays cooler, and the red glass larger to capture the aromas. The proportions should be a bit elongated for sparkling. A stem is nice. For patio glasses, the same principles apply.

I will grant that the first obligation of a wine glass is not to leak. Beyond that, a great wine glass is a beautiful canvas on which to appreciate the art of the wine.

Back in Priorat, the feature wine in the tumbler was fun. The service was probably about as much ceremony as the wine deserved. The next evening, the special wine in crystal glasses was sensational. The quality of the wine warranted being treated like the centre of attention.

So here’s to you, always in the right proportions.

sidebarBy sylvia Jansen, sommelier (isG, CMs), CsW

class on glass

culinary partners

529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez!

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared old world dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

With a bright, sunny view of The Forks, The Current is the perfect place to wind down after work or host visiting guests to the city. Experience a deliciously Canadian gourmet menu, complimented by an award-winning wine list. The lounge also offers live Jazz Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.

75 Forks Market Road 204.922.2445

Terrace in the Park mirrors the natural beauty of Assiniboine Park. Whether for an evening out, a leisurely lunch or a special event, this is the venue to match the occasion. With a regional menu that reflects Manitoba food culture, Chef Resch and WOW! Hospitality offer a one-of-a-kind seafood experience: the very best quality fish and shellfish that have been harvested using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods.

Unit B - 55 Pavilion Cr 204.938.7275

Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:30 for dinner.

956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681

Across the Board Amici RestaurantBest Western Plus Winnipeg Airport HotelBlaze BistroBomboliniBrooklynn’s BistroCafé 22Café DarioChewDeer + AlmondElementsElkhorn Resort

Earl’s Restaurant and BarFood EvolutionFitzroyHorfrostHotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa Hy’s SteakhouseJane’s Restaurant and Red River CollegeJoey Kenaston Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only SeafoodLos Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina

Mano a Mano/Teo’sMarket BurgerMere HotelMulligan’s Restaurant and LoungeOlive Garden Italian RestaurantPizzeria Gusto Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai ThaiSegoviaSouth Beach Casino & ResortSt. Charles Country Club

SukhothaiSwiss ChaletTapastry at Niakwa Golf ClubThe Velvet Glove at the Fairmont TR McCoy’s Italian RestaurantThe Victoria Inn Tony Roma’sUrban Prairie CuisineWasabi Sabi295 York

Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch on-the-go, or a long, lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrées, drink specials, and desserts. Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3pm – 6pm and choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few.

3-1360 Taylor Ave 204.415.7878


shopping list � A.A. Badenhorst 2011 Secateurs Red Blend Swartzland WO, South Africa $18.99...................................................................14

� Bacalhoa Vinhos 2008 Loridos Vintage Bruto Lisboa, Portugal $18.99.....................................................................................62

� Bacalhôa Vinhos 2012 Serras de Azeitão Vinho Tinto Setúbal, Portugal $13.99.......................................................................14

� Bodegas Alaconde nv Rosado Fresco, Navarro DO, Spain $13.99..............................................................................................43

� Bodegas Alconde 2012 Lo Nuestro Garnacha Rosado Navarro DO, Spain $13.99....................................................................43

� Bodegas Pascual Heredade 2012 Peñalosa Verdejo Rueda DO, Spain $16.99..............................................................................14

� Bodega Torre San Millan 2012 Gorrebusto Tempranillo Rioja DOC, Spain $12.99...................................................................14

� Bon Courage 2013 Unwooded Chardonnay, South Africa $15.99............................................................................................62

� Charles Melton 2013 Rose of Virginia Rosé Barossa Valley, Australia $27.99...........................................................................43

� Château de Berne 2012 Rosé Cinsault/Grenache Côtes de Provence AOC, France $18.99...........................................................27

� Château de Berne 2013 Rosé Côtes du Provence, France $18.99..............................................................................................43

� Château de Lancyre 2010 Vieilles Vignes Syrah/Grenache Pic Saint Loup AOC, France $25.99...................................................30

� Château Les Pins 2009 Vin Doux Naturel Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC, France $23.99...................................................................28

� Château Saint Auriol 2009 Syrah/Grenache/Carignan Corbières AOC, France $16.99..............................................................30

� Claude Val 2013 Blanc Languedoc-Roussillon, France $11.99..................................................................................................45

� Cottage Case Mixed $169.99....................................................................................................................................................34

� Cottage Case Red $129.99.........................................................................................................................................................34

� Cottage Case White $129.99......................................................................................................................................................34

� Côté Mas 2013 Aurore Rosé Pays d’Oc IGP, France $11.99......................................................................................................45

� Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Blanc Chambery, France $18.99..............................................................................................38

� Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Rouge Chambery, France $18.99..............................................................................................38

� Dolin Vermouth de Chambery Dry Chambery, France $18.99..................................................................................................38

� Domaine Astruc 2012 dA Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Pays d’Oc IGP, France $19.99.........................................................46

� Domaine Féline Jourdan 2012 Picpoule de Pinet Languedoc AOC, France $15.99....................................................................26

� Domaine La Croix d’Aline 2011 Syrah/Grenache Saint Chinian AOC, France $16.99...............................................................26

� Domaine Lafond 2012 Roc-Epine Tavel AC France $27.99......................................................................................................43

� Domaine Paul Mas 2012 La Forge Estate Marsanne Pays d’Oc IGP, France $17.99................................................................45

� Domaine Paul Mas 2012 Vignes de Nicole Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Pays d’Oc IGP, France $18.99.....................................46

� Domaine Paul Mas 2012 Viognier Pays d’Oc IGP, France $16.99...............................................................................................45

� Heron Ridge 2009 0-Nine Shiraz/Cabernet Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.99.........................................................................62

� Il Faggeto nv Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG, Italy $19.99..................................................................................................14, 62

� Laurent Miquel 2012 Nord Sud Viognier Pays d’Oc IGP, France $18.99....................................................................................22

� Laurent Miquel 2010 Nord Sud Syrah Pays d’Oc IGP, France $19.99......................................................................................22

� Laurent Miquel 2011 Père et Fils Syrah/Grenache Pays d’Oc IGP, France $17.99......................................................................22

� Laurent Miquel 2007 Bardou Saint Chinian AOC, France $32.99..................................................................................................22

� Maison Verges nv Carte Noir Blanquette de Limoux AOC, France $14.99................................................................................27

� Maison Verges nv Blanquette de Méthode Ancestrale Limoux AOC, France $16.99...................................................................27

� Mouton Noir 2012 Love Drunk Rosé Oregon, United States $24.99..........................................................................................43

� Parés Baltà nv Brut Cava DO, Spain $19.99.............................................................................................................................14

� Pulenta 2013 La Flor Malbec Rosé Mendoza, Argentina $14.99................................................................................................43

� Sanviver nv Zarro Vermouth Blanco, Spain 1000ml $11.99........................................................................................................38

� Tawse 2012 Echoes Rosé Niagara VQA, Canada $19.99.........................................................................................................43

� Ventisquero 2011 Grey Label Carmenère Maipo Valley, Chile $22.99........................................................................................35

� Zonin nv Primo Amore Moscato Puglia IGT, Italy $18.99..........................................................................................................14

� Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina $17.99...................................................................................................62

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of the product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co.


saRah ZahaRia

Bacalhôa Vinhos 2008 Loridos Vintage Bruto Lisboa,

Portugal $18.99

A beautiful and affordable alternative to Champagne, the Loridos shines. Breaking tradition by being traditional, this vintage sparkling wine lies sur lies, giving it those sought-after brioche characters. With a blend of the Castelão and Arinto grapes, it has a creamy mouth feel, persistent bubble, and flavours of pear and apple. It’s a perfect start to any evening.

Mike MuiRheaD

Heron Ridge 2009 0-Nine Shiraz/Cabernet, Stellenbosch,

South Africa $19.99

This wine consistently hits above its weight class. Handcrafted by Pippa Orpen from family vineyards, this wine is unfiltered, unfined, and incomparable in the under $20 category. This blend is deep and concentrated with black cherry, black pepper, and rich fruit on the nose. On the palate it has voluptuous tannins and a rich finish. I have won many a blind tasting with this gem.

tina JOnes

Bon Courage 2013 Unwooded Chardonnay

South Africa $15.99

Summer calls for crisp, flavourful, refreshing whites and this wine ticks all three boxes. The delicious tropical flavours of the Bon Courage make it the perfect choice for your next pool party or weekend at the cabin. And for those of you who think you don’t like Chardonnay, give this one a try. It might just be the wine to change your mind!

JennifeR hieBeRt

Il Faggeto nv Valdobbiadene Prosecco

DOCG, Italy $19.99

Let the summer sipping begin with Il Faggeto Valdobbiadene Prosecco! Its little bubbles are bouncing with aromas of stone fruit which roll up on the palate. These bubbles are great to sip as an aperitif or pair it up with seafood or cheese. Let your curiosity go and discover how Prosecco can change your wine experience.

GaRy heWitt

Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Bonarda

Mendoza, Argentina $17.99

Argentina’s other red grape: Bonarda. The Serie A is a vibrant, intense, and juicy wine from a large-scale producer who pushes the envelope on value and quality. Bright red fruits, fresh acidity, and light tannins, all in a wine that is ready for drinking tonight.

tRaCy MCCOuRt

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi 2012 Morellino di Scansano DOCG, Italy $19.99

In the Tuscan town of Scansano, the Sangiovese grape is called Morellino, and this rustic example from the noble Strozzi family is a treat. Medium bodied with bright acidity, hits of black cherry, lavender, vanilla, and soft dusty tannins, this wine is at its best with food. Enjoy it with grilled steak, roast pork, and tomato-based pastas.

top picks*

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the cellar door: issue 18. the south of france

Documents

wine importer

amazing wine

wine pairings

wine education

sommelier18 banville

fine wine boutique

favourite wine region

sisters tina jones