The Bocksten TunicTHL Ginevra Brembati – Vittoria418@yahoo.com

In 1932, the near perfectly preserved remands of a 14th c. man were found in a peat bog in Sweden. Apparently the man had been murdered with three blows to the head and his body tossed into the bog1. The lack of oxygen and anti-microbial compounds in the bog preserved both his body and all the clothing he was wearing. (Durrani, 2006)

There is debate regarding exactly when the Bocksten man lived. Radiocarbon dating gives a broad date range of somewhere between 1290 – 1430ad. (Durrani, 2006) He was found wearing a woolen tunic, woolen cloak, woolen hose, leather shoes, two leather belts and two knives. His hood was found nearby. (Durrani, 2006)

The clothing worn by the Bocksten man is representative of clothing worn by men and women across Europe from the 10th through the 15th century. The design of this garment can be cut long for a lady or shorter for a man. For men, the length of the cote denotes rank, with longer showing higher status. (Thursfield, 2001)

1 Some experts assert that the Bocksten man was of “high social standing” because of the hood he wore. It is suggested that he may have been recruiting soldiers or was a tax collector. (Durrani, 2006)

Fig. 2 - Line drawing of the Bocksten tunic by I. Carlson, based on one by E. Lundwall. Bold lines indicate selvages.

Fig. 1 - The Bocksten Man’s Tunic

Rectangular construction means that the clothing is made with only rectangles and triangles. This design is allows the fabric to be cut into a garment with almost no waste. Rectangular construction was used almost exclusively until the 14th century and even in the Tudor and Elizabethan era it was used for cutting underclothes.

To make this garment you will need: Fabric – prewashed and dried Measuring tape and yard stick Scissors Chalk or fabric marker

Pins Iron and ironing board Needle and thread A sewing machine

Measurements2:1. Shoulder to Hem ____________ + 1” = _________________________

2. Around Chest3 (+ 5 inches) (___________/2) +1” = ________________

3. Arm length from shoulder4 __________+ 2” = ____________________

4. Armscye (arm hole) circumference5 ____________+ 3” = ___________

5. Around fist __________ +1” = _________________________________

6. Gore length (waist to hem) ________________ + 1” _______________

7. Gore width - 10” (Adjust to fit your fabric width)

8. Gusset - 4.5” sided square is good for most. (Cut two)

Neck: A. Base of the neck from shoulder to shoulder ______/2 = ________________(taken across the back of the neck)

B. Base of the neck from front (at collar bone) to back = ________(along the side of the neck)

Fabric needed: If measurement (#2 + #4) is < 45” (or 60”) fabric needed:

Measurement #1 (__________x2) + 18” = ___________(Use 60” width fabric if the number is > 45)

If measurement (#2+#4) is > 60” fabric needed:

Measurement (#1_______x2) + (#4________x2) = ________

2 Do not let the tape slack, but also do not pull the measuring tape very tight when taking measurements. 3 Over the fullest part of the chest, arms down to the side, muscles relaxed. 4 From ball of the shoulder joint to wrist, arm held down at the side.5 Arm held extended, measure very loosely around the arm at the armpit. If the person has large upper arms, use the larger of the two measurements.

Fig. 3 - Image credit to Thursfield, pg. 79

Adjusting the pattern: For a large bust: Increase the gussets to 6” per side or larger.

If the waist is larger than the chest: Lengthen the side gores by 6” or more. Position the gores starting higher on the rib cage.

Fig. 3 - This diagram gives an example of how the entire garment can be cut from a flat length of fabric.

*The diagram does not include the two square shaped gussets.

*Do not cut the slit from CF to C or CB to B.

The red lines and numbers refer to the measurements taken above. Use these points to lay out your pieces. Use chalk or maker and a yard stick to draw the black lines.

The capital letters indicate the placement of the pieces in the construction process.

Cut carefully exactly on the lines you drew.

Also Cut two squares with 4 ½” long sides.

Neck opening: Fold your large tunic rectangle in half

(hamburger style) and mark the shoulder/halfway point.

Unfold and refold the tunic length wise (hotdog style).

Measure 1.5”up from the shoulder/halfway point you marked

Measure down the distance in Measurement B

At the shoulder/halfway point measure out the distance in Measurement A

Draw a curving line to connect the three points.o Be careful that the line makes a right

angle where is meets the fold.

Cut along the line you drew.

Try this on. It should just be just a little too tight or just barely slip over your head. Remember that the opening is going to enlarge by 2 more inches before it’s done. If it’s too tight, trim only ¼” away and try it on again.

Neck Facing: Open your tunic piece flat. Position the neck hole you just cut over your uncut

fabric. Trace the circle.

Remove the tunic piece. Draw a second circle 3” out from the first circle.

Cut along both lines. This is your neck facing.

Don’t forget to cut two squares with 4 ½” long sides for the gussets.

A

Fold

B

Shoulder point

B

Finishing the raw edges:1. Serger – Before construction, surge every raw edge. Try not to cut off any fabric

2. Pinking shears – After construction, pink all raw edges

3. Hand sewing – After construction, turn under raw edges and whip stitch down.

Sew with ½ inch seam allowance.

Always sew with “right sides” of fabric together!

Construction:

Step one – Neck Facing

Pin and sew the inside edge of the neck facing to the tunic neck opening.

Every ½ inch or so, clip seam allowance perpendicular to and up to the stitching line. Turn the facing to the inside and press.

Try on the tunic body. Ensure it passes over your head. If it is too tight, repeat, sewing the facing only ¼” out from your previous stitching. Make very small adjustments because the circumference of the opening expands quickly.

Step two – Gussets

Attach one side of the gusset to the diagonal edge of the sleeve. Repeat with other sleeve. Stop sewing ½ inch from each end of the gusset!

Find and mark the center point of the top edge of your sleeve and center of the body side. Pin and sew the sleeve edge to the body matching center points. Repeat with other side. Stop sewing ½ inch from each end of the fabric!

Fold along the shoulder. Sew from wrist until meeting the gore. Sew the nearest unattached side of the gusset to the sleeve. Sew the final unattached side of the gusset to the body. Stop sewing ½ inch from each corner of the gusset!

Sew down the side seam 3-4 inches.

Step three – Gores

Try on the tunic. Using your own judgment, determine where the side gores should start. (If the waist is larger than the chest, start the side gores higher on the body. On ladies, it is most flattering if the gores start at or just above the fullest part of her hips.) Mark these points.

Sew the mid-length side of the two smaller triangles together. Repeat. These are the side gores.

Pin and sew each side of the gore to the tunic body matching the top point with the mark you made. Stop sewing ½ inch from the top of the gore. Finish sewing the side seam you started earlier. Repeat with the other side.

Try on the tunic. Again, using your judgment, choose where the center front and back gores should start.

Cut the slit for the front and back gores on the tunic body. It using a serger, finish the raw edges now.

Sew the remaining two gores into the slits. Stop sewing 1” from the top point.

Note: The gores will likely be longer than the side of the tunic you are attaching them to. This is correct.

Step four – Hand Finishing

Gore points, as best you can, roll the tunic fabric towards the inside and take small stitches to tack the point and tunic body together.

Sleeve, try on the tunic and mark the proper length for the sleeve. Trim off excess fabric, leaving enough to turn up for a hem. Turn up the hem and whip stitch.

Hem, Try on the tunic and mark the hem length. Most likely, your gores are hanging below the tunic body. Lay the tunic flat and cut the bottom edge back to the desired length. Cut in a smooth curve (like a smile), not straight across. Turn up the hem and whip stitch.

Neck facing, on the inside of the tunic, turn under the raw edge of the neck facing a whip stitch. If it is difficult to turn under, make small clips perpendicular to the edge every inch or so.

If you still have raw edges, either pink or turn under all edges.

Finished!

Bibliography

Carlson, I. M. “Some Clothing of the Middle Ages” 2003. Accessed online http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockback.html on 2/08/13

Durrani, N. “Swedish Bocksten Man Brought to Life.” World Archaeology. 18 (2006).

Thursfield, S. The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant. Costume & Fashion Press: Hollywood, CA. 2001.